Ford F-150 5.4L 3v: Passenger Exhaust Manifold Replacement
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- Here are the Parts and Tools needed for the job-
Dorman RH Exhaust Manifold-(All Model Years)
amzn.to/2ajKjzC
Stainless Steel Stud Kit-
amzn.to/2ap65BP
Ford Exhaust Manifold Gaskets (order 2)-
amzn.to/2anrKNK
OTC Stud remover and installer-
amzn.to/2a7H0fn
External Torx Sockets-
amzn.to/29YuyLQ
Craftsman Rounded Nut Extractors-
amzn.to/2ajKBXq
Best Rust Penetrant-
amzn.to/2ap6eoH
Starter Removal Video-
• Ford F-150 Starter Rep...
Broken Stud Removal video-
• Ford 4.6L 5.4L 6.8L 3v...
Torque Specs:
Manifold Studs- 106in lbs
Manifold Nuts- 216in lbs
Downpipe Nuts- 30ft lbs
My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
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Here are the Parts and Tools needed for the job-
Dorman RH Exhaust Manifold-(All Model Years)
amzn.to/2ajKjzC
Stainless Steel Stud Kit-
amzn.to/2ap65BP
Ford Exhaust Manifold Gaskets (order 2)-
amzn.to/2anrKNK
OTC Stud remover and installer-
amzn.to/2a7H0fn
External Torx Sockets-
amzn.to/29YuyLQ
Craftsman Rounded Nut Extractors-
amzn.to/2ajKBXq
Best Rust Penetrant-
amzn.to/2ap6eoH
Starter Removal Video-
ua-cam.com/video/yhXV-aIv_bA/v-deo.html
Broken Stud Removal video-
ua-cam.com/video/ZVQJhGRq-5E/v-deo.html
Torque Specs:
Manifold Studs- 106in lbs
Manifold Nuts- 216in lbs
Downpipe Nuts- 30ft lbs
I thought u only used motorcraft parts? Wouldn't putting shortys on be better then heavy manifold?
Depends - twice the labor since you have to do both sides...and if only 1 is leaking... that's a lot of cost ( if you are not doing it yourself) and that makes the headers very expensive.
I've already decided that if the driver's side leaks that I will switch to shorty headers since the passenger side should come apart easily and quickly - just have to figure out which ones.
The studs in your video look like copper coated stainless. Are the linked studs the ones you used in the video? will the MSTC (Stainless Steel Stud Kit-
amzn.to/2ap65BP) linked studs not break like the stock ones? I want ones that won't likely need to be replaced in the future.
No the ones in the video are from Ford but they are very expensive up to $80 per side. The ones I link to are all stainless so they work just the same no breakage. With these though I recommend using a bit of nickel anti-seize on the threads before threading them into the head.
FordTechMakuloco what about 2005 f150 5.4 triton? Is it the same?
He is a professional guys. Makes the job look easy. Reality is I’d rather chew my own tongue then do this again. That being said it was better then paying ford $2100 to do it..... keep the videos coming bro. I’ve learned a lot from you.
He skipped putting the bottom studs in. Lol. That is the hard part.
Ryan Blake he probably cross threaded one..😂
Nice endorsement scotty i totally agree have learned so much from this channel.
Did someone call for a tenacious bastard? 👋🏻 not sure what’s worse for me, casinos or doubling down on fixing my Expedition
Did the passenger side this weekend.
In my garage, no hoist, tricks and tips.
1: remove battery, wiper fluid canister, and cut out the fender , yes, cut it out and you will weld it back together after. This helped me immensely.
2: cut the exhaust off, ad cut as much of the manifold as you can get to..makes reaching the 3rd and 4th bolt on top easier. I used a sawzall
Will post video on my channel. Eric Whitehead
I'm just finishing up doing both sides on an 09 5.4. A broken stud on the rear of the left side, one broken on the front of the right. However, the companion studs broke off of both sides when I removed them. So I had to break out the welder to remove the four of them. All were broken inside the head. Look up his video on removing them with a welder...it's the best lesson you will learn here. It easily removed all four. A quick comment...jack the engine up on each side when working on each side!! It is so easy and makes the job SOOOO much easier!! I removed the one large bolt in the left mount, but I unbolted the two nuts off the mount stud on the right. Piece of cake. Then just used a block of wood and a jack to lift the motor an inch or so. You MUST remove the starter on the right side to gain room to remove the manifold. You can unbolt it without doing that, but it won't come out. However...if you unbolt it first, you can move the manifold around a bit and make that miserable $%@*$%& bolt on top the starter a piece of cake to remove! One last thing...SERIOUSLY consider replacing your starter at this time!! You will never get another opportunity for such easy access.
that is what I am going to try now, I tried lifting dead center with hoist and neither side were up enough for the lift to help in any way...just doing mine outside and hot n sunny, waiting for a cloudy day.. and hope do not have to yank out to get this done, but if I do, at least easier to work on spark plugs, although will have to do cold that way, see others have 80% success on hot engine vs 20% on cold for seized tips in head...
Might have to buy spare extractor for my Lisle tool as doing just 1 plug buggered up those threads...
I literally just got mine done. It’s 10 o’clock on on Sunday night ,March 19th 2020 Not an easy job...And I wanna say this thank you 🙏 my man Brian for all trips and trick appreciate you brother I could’ve done it without you !!!
This video and the comments once again prove how very little I know about car maintenance. My oldest son can do this without watching a video, knows exactly what to do and how. I struggle with everything I try, and it never ever goes smoothly.
There's nothing wrong with that, You learn the most with struggling, no matter how old you may be, you'll get there 🙂
I just replaced the passenger side manifold on my ‘05 FTX and had five broken studs, the worst being the front lower while also recessed and corroded. Without a welder, I don’t know if I would have ever gotten it. Thanks a million Ford Tech Makuloco!! I would never have completed this repair myself without your videos!! THANK YOU!!!
I've been a professional technician for 29 years. Unless you work on a vehicle you don't know what you don't know about it. So I appreciate your video and shortcuts on time else I would have jacked up the motor and spent more time swapping this sucker out than needed to. Keep up the good work brother.
Just wanted to thank you for this video. I am a decent part swapper at best, but was able to follow your tips and tricks and replaced my manifold on a 2010 King Ranch 4WD without raising the engine. I only had one bolt shear off on me but it was the top rear and easy to drill and extract. Could not have accomplished this without knowing exactly how to get at the bolts.Thanks again. David Greer
I just completed changing my passenger side exhaust manifold. Let me first say that this guy is incredible with the amount of knowledge he has about Ford trucks and the content of his videos has helped myself and do many other people. I am reiterating almost exactly what is described in the video but explaining my step by step just to prove the average person can do this job. I am fairly mechanically inclined but not a mechanic by any means. If you follow his steps in the video step by step, you can knock this job or. I work out of town Monday through Friday so I only had the weekend. For this reason I had been putting this off and trying to find a local shop to work on it. No shop would even touch this job. It was pretty rough! But if I was to do it again (not saying that I would) I feel confident I could do it in half the time. It took me about 12 hours on and off.
After removing the wheel and wheel well cover. You can easily access the top studs. Unbolting the passenger motor mount and jacking it up just over an inch will give you access to the bottom bolts, but definitely NOT easy access. Once manifold is unbolted and loose, you can remove your starter. With the starter dropped, you can finagle the manifold out. Try to remember how you worked it out because this is the same way the new will go in.
Top studs can all be easily broken loose with a 6 point ½ inch combination wrench (angled box end combination wrench makes it much easier). You can even get the two rear studs with a deep well 6 point ⅜ drive socket, extension, and ⅜" ratchet.
Bottom studs:
1. ***Unbolted passenger side motor mount and lifted the engine 1 inch.
2. Both rear studs deep well 6 point with ⅜ drive U joint adapter.
3. Both front studs, ½” 6pt wrench with angled end.
Once everything was loose, I used a 13mm ratchet wrench or socket/ratchet where accessible.
Ratchet wrenches make all of this much easier. I had to alternate between ratchet and ratchet wrench depending how far I had the studs backed out/run in.
I did it exactly as described in the video. If I could do, so can you. Good luck!
Where do you live man!? I need this done lol when I saw your comment was 4 hours ago it is exactly what I've been looking for. No shops want to touch it. It is a 2010 lariat and 1 side is cracked badly, and other is starting to crack too
I've heard other guys pulling the heads to do both both but not sure it is neccessary
Quality wise probably the best car repair channel, alongside Eric O and SMA.
( this is a long comment, sorry)
Hi,
Just did the passenger
side manifold on my '09 5.4 @ 81,150.5 mi ( okay, so I'm splitting
hairs, but I keep a log book...) (I bought the truck @ ~ 69,000 miles
and I missed the #4 top stud missing before the 3,000 mile warranty
ended .. from a Ford Dealership no less.)
Disclaimer: I'm not a
professional mechanic, but I have been doing all maintenance on all my
vehicles since before I could drive (well, Dad's vehicles) so I've got
about 35 years of experience across a variety of makes, models, etc -
this is not my first manifold)
1st - Your video and narrative are
TOP NOTCH - THANK YOU!! Without something like this I would for sure
have run into major issues with both access, process, or just the
unknown. #4 top was broken off already, #4 bottom was in place but
snapped as soon as torque applied - just as you predicted.
In my case all the nuts still fit nicely into a 13mm tool.
2nd
- for the rest of you out there, it took me 2 full days in the driveway
I had 3 studs ( #1 top, #2 top and bottom) stay in the head, the nuts
came off - the manifold doesn't come out until you get #2 bottom out and
at least 1 of those 2 tops out.. I got manifold off with #2 top still
in place) - just take your time. I could probably have done the same job
in about 6 or 7 hours now that I've been through it.
3rd - Jack
the Engine! ( unless you are Mr. Makuloco or have done enough of these
to know exactly where - and how - to reach all the right spots... I just
couldn't make it work un-jacked - got as far as inserting the #2 bottom
stud and that was the end... never even attempted #1 bottom stud..took
it all back out and jacked the engine on the passenger side only)
**
Caution ** - be sure that you have a solid and safe jack on the engine
unless you have an engine hoist and can "chain it over" - I used a 6 ton
bottle jack from below and pushed up on the 2 studs that come through -
with the nuts still on I only lifted it about 7 threads on the studs...
when I did the retorque I reversed the had the nuts on the studs and
got a lift of 9 threads, or something more than 1 inch but less than 2
for sure -- nothing went snap, crackle, or pop anyplace else - you can
bolt up the the down tube while lifted, and you can lift with the tube
bolted for retorque
It took me less than 10 min to do this... If
you have shorter arms ( I'm 5;9") and / or beefier arms and / or you
just like a little more space - Jack The Engine! .. take the 2 nuts off
on passenger side mount, put a block of wood under the studs and then a
bottle jack and just put it up about 2" - The Access O-M-G !! I was able
to install all 4 front studs ( #1 top and bottom, #2 top and bottom)
and torque them and then still install the manifold without much issue -
a little more persuasion - short pry bar just as shown in the video and
then using the butt end of the wooden handle on my 1.5 lb hammer to TAP
the front end (#1 end) of manifold down a twitch and it popped right
onto the 4 studs --- BE SURE TO INSTALL THE GASKET FIRST !!! (I used
small piece of blue painters tape on the top of gasket between #1 and #2
ports to ensure that it didn't move ... it was pretty happy to stay put
on its own ( FoMoCo gasket)
I used the SS studs which you link
to - please note - these have a 4mm hex head formed in the end of the
stud ... so you would be well to get a 4mm hex bit socket - BUT - Be
SURE it is 4mm for the full length, you may find you have to shorten the
bit part. ... or find one that has a shot bit sticking out....
otherwise you have to guess the torque - for me, the OTC stud driver set
would not grip the MTSC Stud.
I think that if I had to do it
again, I would get those fancy Ford studs ... the E-Torxs head makes the
process you show work, the MTSC studs are very hard to spin in by
finger (for me anyway) using the process you show in the video - but
jacking the engine makes it work out fine since you can place the 4 hard
ones and torque them without the manifold in the way, and then the top
and bottom on #3 & 4 are in the open.
Bonus of jacking the
engine is access to the #1 bottom - you can reach down from the top
around the manifold and spin the nut on.. AND... I was able to put the
torque wrench on the same nut with just a deep socket on it and get a
good clean torque. I can't share the pic of the torque wrench on it
here, sorry.
BEFORE YOU JACK -
Do yourself 1 favor though
- separate the down tube from the manifold before you lift. Like the
video, it is easy to get at with 1/2" Impact and extension on the bottom
nut and spin it off. The top - not so much. I don't have shop air
though, so I don't have a compact die grinder and small cut off wheel -
however, it IS possible to fit a 4" grinder in there with a wheel and
cut it off without damaging anything else - it is TIGHT - ... I happened
to have a worn wheel that was no longer 4", so it was easier. When I
later ground off the stud and flange that remained, I used a full 4"
grinding wheel and it fit ( had to take the shield off the grinder and
the sparks come right at you.. I have welder's gloves that I use for
fireplace, I wore the left hand glove for this and used that to block
all the sparks and chunks coming back - ware Safety Glasses !!!!! ( a
full face grinding shield would be better if you have one stuff bounces
all over)
4th - my '09 has a small heat shield attached to the
bottom side of the manifold - the Dorman manifold does not have the
holes for the bolts, or even the bosses which could have been drilled
and tapped. I just used some SS Breeze brand hose clamps, trimmed the
tails and folded over and crimped the sharp ends left after the trim -
if you place them right, the screw part of the clamp does not interfere
with the fit...they are sort of between the bumps on the manifold.
I like to retain heat shields when possible - they were there for a reason.
5th is just a cation
** Caution **
When you retorque - and this goes without saying, so I'm saying it - REMOVE the Battery Ground Cable AGAIN!
I
found that I was about to jam some extensions up into the gap between
the starter and the frame to reach the #2 Bottom nut and had to check
myself as I realized that the side of the starter hot lead connector is
still exposed !!
Since you had the battery disconnected and the
starter out for all the work, you almost don't think about this ... it
would have been exciting when my extension touched that connector and
the frame or any of the other metal that you were looking to put the
socket on.
So again, this video is EXCELLENT - Thank You!
For
the shade tree mechanics out there, just take it slow and safe and you
will be fine. Stud extraction is your only real challenge here.
Thank you Makuloco and good luck everyone else!!
Almost forgot !!
Be sure that you align the down tube bracket OVER the 2 studs BEFORE you lock the manifold into place !!! I could not get things to move enough to allow it once the down tube slipped into place on the manifold and the manifold was on the studs. The O2 sensor prevents the clamp flange from spinning where you need to once the studs come all the way down.
Engine mount nuts are torqued to 46 lbft - at least this was the number I found online
To Greg Mislick
Thank you on your comments I found it very interesting. Like you I used the stainless steel studs, and flange nuts from MTSC with a good coat of anti size lubricate on the threads. I didn't have an exhaust manifold leak or any problems with the manifold. I just decided to do some preventative maintenance. I have a 2005 F150 5.4 triton engine 3 valve with 55,000 miles on it. After I did all of them I later discovered the MTSC offers stainless steel bolts, lock and flat washers with the same material and thread. Like you I had a pistol of a time getting some of the studs out where the nut came off but the stud was still in the head. I noticed the studs with the nut on has some remaining threads showing which could be a problem later on if has to be removed, that remains to be seen.
If I had t do this over and I still might I would use their MTSC stainless steel bolts, lock and flat washers eliminating the studs altogether. It would be a lot easier to replace the exhaust manifold if all you had to do was remove the bolts and not have to fight removing those studs. This is my opinion although the Ford tech does not recommend it because of torque values as he mention in my earlier inquiry.
I also didn't care for the studs that came with the manifold with the hex flange on the end that he used. When trying to remove one of the original nuts the stud twisted and broke off on the end of the flange (number 1 bottom passenger side front) on the stud making the nut almost impossible to get off. When I did manged to get the nut off the stud I still had to deal with removing the stud, which I eventually did and got it out by using a very short bolt nut extractor. With MTSC stainless steel studs and flange nuts the hex is at the end recessed inside of the stud. In my opinion If you have to remove the stud or nut the nut would come off a lot easier than Ford's version because of not having to deal with that flange on the end of the stud and the nut should just spin off. Time will tell all later.
Sorry for the soap, thanks again.
Do you have to remove A/C compressor?.
For anyone doing this on an 04 or 05 truck, there is an easier way to remove the passenger manifold without removing the engine mount. I tried the method in the video but my manifold got hung up on the motor mount. I'm not sure if that is different on a later model truck, but the video poster did mention differences.
I turned the manifold so the collector would point out toward the wheel well, then began pulling it out all the way. It will bind at a point. Stop, don't force the manifold. Simply use a lengthy cheater bar of some kind under the boss on the head for the valve cover just behind the shock tower, and lift the motor about 1/2" while simultaneously pulling the manifold out.
Install is the process of removal, but in reverse. Orient the part in the same way that it was when you took it out, and it'll go in most of the way.
I also removed the two bolts holding my crossover pipes and cats up, to give additional room to remove/install.
Took me all of 2 mins to put in my new shorty header today doing this method
Hope that helps someone else doing this job!
Excellent video man. You're not full of any unnecessary information completely helpful and very clear and precise camera work along with your Narrative of what you were doing. Wish more mechanics made videos as good as this.
I had every difficulty you said there was. This is a hard job. I find the easiest way is to go to Ford, give them money, and pick it up when they say they are done. The top bolt closest to the radiator is the one that broke. it was buried in the head. I was still able to get it out with the welding technique. I would never have attempted the job without this video. Remove the starter, unbolt and move the A/C compressor out of the way before you even begin. Thank you for the video.
I've used your videos multiple times to do repairs. I have to give ya credit man, you give alot of great tips & we appreciate u taking your time to make these videos! 👍👍
Changed one of these for the first time last week. It was on a 2009 F250 5.4L. Passenger side. Old one was cracked. Unhooked battery. Took off starter, upper section of trans dipstick tube, and inner fender plastic. Used a 3/8 long handle flex head ratchet on studs and nuts. None broke off. Used impact gun for Y pipe nuts. None broke off. There is a metal piece in the fender well that the plastic inner fender bolts to. I bent this out of the way to remove the manifold through the fender well. I discovered that the new studs and gaskets can be installed before putting the manifold on. Put on manifold. All stud nuts are not too hard to install on the top row and the back two on the lower row. Front two on lower row are not fun. I use silicone or masking tape to hold the new nuts to the washers for the front two lower studs. A 1/4 drive deep socket and adapters will allow you to install them. It is not easy but I did it coming in from the top. I also pried up on the manifold heat shield for more room. Did not take off motor mount.
800624 wow 2009 with manifold issues? Definitely not buying a 2004 f250 that I was interested in.
800624 I
Did you jack the engine up?
Awesome instructional! Your video helped me so much! I replaced the exhaust manifold on my 2010 f150. Not an easy task but very doable. Saved a lot of money not having to take it to a Ford dealer,where they were going to pull the motor! Thanks for taking the time to make this video and adding the tips!
How many miles did your began to fail at? My 09 is certainly making these noises. 150,000
Thank you
Where do you live? Want to do mine?
The Dorman manifolds warp quickly. I recommend using an OEM manifold replacement. Along with OEM studs and OEM gaskets.
Your videos are fantastic, nice job.
Or, if you have the tools available, machine down the warped OEM manifold so it is flat. This should last even longer since it has likely already relieved any stress from all of the heat cycling.
Never a problem yet so I still offer them to my customers trying to save money, you must torque them in the proper sequence and go over your work.
I second this. Have dorman manifolds on my 08 and they didnt make it 1 season towing my 24' rv through the mountains. Buy Ford or get a good set of aftermarket headers
@@Pantera40z I would go back to OEM. But maybe they have finished warping... Also depends how much you enjoy changing them out. I do not.
This might be hard to believe but after watching I don't know countless probably 15-20 videos you're the only one that showed how the gasket goes in which side goes against the motor and which side goes out I mean there is countless videos of replacing these but every one of them never say put the gasket this way not one which to me has been mind blowing then all these people even professional channels showing it putting it on taking it off all this stuff but never show how the gasket goes on which side goes against the heads which side goes against the exhaust manifold it's just amazing to me I finally found one just the reason I watch your show all the time cuz even the smallest things you usually show and the smallest things usually is the biggest thing
Great video!. My truck is an '09 F150 with 277000 kilos in salty Ontario. I compared the Dorman manifold to an OE Ford manifold and in my opinion, the extra $40-$50 spent on the OE manifold is worth it. The Dorman manifold is certainly not as smooth on the inside as the OE Ford. The Ford comes with the OE manifold gaskets plus the studs, nuts and washers. You do have to purchase the down pipe studs and nuts. The Dorman manifold comes with the downpipe studs but you have to buy the 8 studs, nuts and washers separately so the difference in cost (I get garage prices) is worth spending a bit more for the Ford parts, IMO. I have no idea what the Ford studs are made of, but when you drop one in the subframe, a magnet won't pick them up so I recommend stuffing paper towels anywhere there is a risk of dropping stuff. I lifted my engine on the passenger side, very easy, take off the two 21mm nuts, and use a 2x4 on a casting boss above where the starter mounts. Gives you much more room to attack the lower nuts. I lifted until the engine studs were flush with the bottom of the mount and the fan was just starting to jamb on the shroud. Make it much easier to get your hands in there. Only two of my studs came out with the nuts. I used acetylene on all the nuts as they were really nasty. All the remaining studs came out with double locked nuts and some heat plus penetrating oil. Its a lousy job, well worth it though as my truck is now nice and quiet. It had a hairline crack on the underside as expected but none of the gasket had blown out. Again, I suggest for the extra 10 minutes, it is well worth lifting the passenger side of the engine a couple inches.
I'm in Ontario and need this done. Interested in doing another haha. Having a hard time getting a shop to take it
Great video! I found that removing the large heat shield underneath allowed me to have a much easier access to the collector bolts as well as to remove the starter. I also reinstalled the starter before I put the manifold back on to have much easier access for the top bolt of the starter.
Don't reinstall the starter before putting the manifold back on, you will need the access to install the studs. I ended up pulling the starter a second time. 🥺
Amigo. Your channel has been a god send. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge on these trucks with us.
I did long tube headers on my 07 both sides combined tear down and install took me between 25-30 hours total! The labor required is not worth doing it yourself but I’m a broke college student and was able to get it done with help from a friend! The only thing I removed was the starter to get the passenger side installed. I’ve never had to use so many different tools or work from such awkward positions on a vehicle!
Hey My friend. Thanks so much for breaking this down for us. It will make my manifold replacement and stud removal much easier!
Thanks for the tips. Just did one on a 2006 Expedition, factory manifold was cracked in 1/2. I can honestly say this is prob the worst repair encounter I have ever had. My hands and forarms are beat up after 5 hours wrenching. I did get lucky though and had no broken studs. I did use a stud extractor that made the job a little easier.
Removed my right side exh manifold on my 2010 5.4 l today. Two broken studs (front lower and rear lower). Decided to remove the starter as Brian suggested. Once stud were removed from manifold, I pulled it away from the head and slid the manifold forward. This will expose the infamous upper bolt for the starter and makes for easy starter removal. Once starter out, slide manifold back, then down where the starter was, then out. Now to tackle those 2 broken studs tomorrow. By the way, the starter is still original, so I am replacing at the same time with a Ford reman (new is no longer available).Going to bench test the new one before it goes back in, just in case........
As I'm in the middle of this ordeal with my 2006 I'm convinced I must lift the engine to get at the 1st & 2nd lower bolts since the A.C. compressor is in the way and the shock tower is a formidable obstacle.
This video features a 2009. Seems there are some subtle differences.
I can confirm the process is the same for 2010 5.4 raptors.
I had a bad crack in my passenger side manifold (4+ inches long) and decided to replace both manifolds.
Used all OEM parts, used a ton of PB blaster on all the studs several days prior twice a day.
All of my studs (driver and passenger side) came out without breaking. My truck has 132k miles and the studs were in pretty decent shape.
Just take your time, when it’s time to pull studs, use heat, rust penetrant, and give them a few taps with a hammer and they shouldn’t cause much issue. If you have the manifolds out but have a stud still stuck in the block, do several cycles of heating it up, tapping it with a hammer, and using rust penetrant. 3-4 cycles of this should have that stud coming out no problem. Do yourself a favor and use all new hardware and clean the surface well. Again take your time, you’ll thank yourself later.
I don’t know if this is a raptor thing or not, but I also had to unbolt the down pipe hangers to get more clearance. This is easy and allowed me to pull both manifolds out without needing to unbolt motor mounts.
If you have the tools and the time - do this job. Save yourself $2000 and at the same time you can make sure the job wasn’t half-assed.
Great video, you have the patients of a god. I live in the rust belt and am about to tackle the drivers side on my 05 F350 with the 5.4, wish me luck! Mine are in much worse shape. No fault of mine, I just purchased the truck this way and I want to fix it up. Thanks for posting. I'm off to check out your other videos.
Buy the oem manifold from Ford, dont use a Dorman manifold... I had 2 of them crack on me.
Excellent video! I kept referring back to it while I was doing my repair. Thanks for turning an impossible task into something doable.
Thanks for this video without it I would never have attempted this repair or thought to even look at the manifold. Swapped the exhaust manifold on 2010 XLT luckily none of the bolts sheared probably because I live in the Pacific NW where there is a lot less salt on the roads. Cleaning out the threads in the holes is very good advice, being able screw the bolts and studs in by hand makes things much easier.
Thank you so much for this video and the starter removal video. I completed this today in 10 hours. No broken studs. Only the exhaust bolts had to be cut off. Saved me a bundle! Thank you again.
Would you want to do mine😂
So glad i just paid to have these replaced 😂😂 . Very clear and concise video love it
Good video! One tip I learned is to tighten all three holes on your drill chuck evenly when installing a bit or other. This insures a straight even pressure on the bit. My Dad would know if I handed him a drill without tightening all 3 . Somehow he knew.
Has the heat from the leaking manifold caused a failure of the valve cover gasket about the exhaust port/...if not where has the obvious oil contamination around that exhaust port come from? Great videos with tons of important info for both the novice and working mechanics, we all appreciate the time and effort it takes to film and explain these issues! They have been a life-saver for my 2000 HD f150 since it has over 400k miles it has some various issues , nothing major yet, great truck.
+THEMASTEROFYOU2000 no oil leak it was penetrating oil residue mixed with carbon.
Thanks just did this today. I'm a Nissan Master tech but when I have to work on a ford your my first stop for info after prodemand. Thanks a bunch for what you do!!
Also I'm in the south and my studs were ok but the back of my manifold was cracked pretty badly around the rear of the manifold
no broken studs but 6 of 8 were in backwards and cylinder 4 was definitely leaking. tips and tricks were definitely helpful. thanks for the help.
Kudos on such a great job putting this video together - one of the best that I've seen, especially for someone who has some wrenching experience already. Thank you so much.
I just cut them all off with the torch and weld nuts to the 1/2 inch of stud that left and the heat from the welder helps the portion of the stud thread out
Halfway thru mine new parts here this afternoon thanks for video info much appreciated
You make it look easy Brian. Like a surgeon! Lol. That inductive heat tool is on my wish list. Much easier then trying to wield an oxy acetylene torch in that tight spot.
Man i work on stuff gotta say your a great mechanic and your professional. Great job on this. I'm about to do this job if I buy this 99 f350 4x4 it may be a little easier as no shock tower in the way. It has a leaf spring only in front. That 5.4 sounds good.
Great Video! I think I speak for the entire ford community when I say "Thank You". Would you suggest replacing leaking manifolds with aftermarket headers?
Well you had one problem and you doubled the problem because doubt the other side is gonna be any easier
Would probably be better to just replace the studs if you’re worried.
Good video. I usually lightly heat the big motor mount bolt to loosen the locktight then jack the right side of the engine up... install all the studs and gaskets.. then install the manifold..you can access them all from the wheel well.
I bet you're correct on this technique depending on the year. My 2006 doesn't seem to allow doing this without lifting the engine.
Oh, and my exhaust studs are for more rusty than in this video.
This is by far the most tortuous job I've ever tackled. Much worse than changing sparks plugs in a 1985 Chevy Astro...
Must you disconnect anything else to jack up engine? Many times the fan shroud is in the way, ect...
@@jimvenizelos4649 I can't remember loosening the shroud. Usually the fan does hit while the engine is jacked up. Also place a 2x6 on the jack to protect the pan. Ford like to use thread locker so a little heat on the bolt threaded end makes for easy removal! Remove y pipe bolts first. And only tighten them after engine is setting back in mounts. Also Dorman manifolds are crap! Use OEM Ford with Hardware.
@@johnw4590 thanks John. I've managed to remove all obstacles. Lifted engine enough but not for straight on access to front lower bolts. Reach around shock tower now. But these studs are so completely rusty I won't be able to get anything on them.
Might have to cut manifold off, then get studs out.
I could see this costing $2000 at a shop. Truck not worth that expense.
Thanks for your input tho.
How much should it cost to have both manifolds replaced on both sides for a 2006 with at least 2 broken manifold exhaust bolts?
Excellent videos! I have and work on a 1988 f150 I6 and your techniques really help!
Finally did mine! And man was it ever a pain!... would have been fine if the top bolt on cylinder 1 wouldn't have broken off...took me forever to get that out. Ended up using a right angle 1/4 hex drive and cutting an easy out in half then using the one half with the drill bit on to drill it and the other half to extract it.
DMX " HERE WE GO AGAIN"
In response in the beginning.😅
Thank you for this video, I was able to follow your instructions on removing the starter, drilling and extracting a broken stud, and replacing the gasket and manifold. It took some time, but I would not have been able to do it without these videos.
I need to do mine, hopefully it will hold up until spring, too cold ❄ now.
me too and I just bought the manifold good luck.I am going to borrow a buddys welder in case things get bad
how did it work out ,I plan on doing mine in the next week here
Hey man thanks for the videos. Did my 04 today, a few issues but no broken studs-a couple studs gave me some trouble but took my time and worked them back and forth and finally broke free. About ten hours to do both sides. I did just cut them out in a couple pieces first and it gave me more room to get the nuts and studs out seemed to help. Thanks again your videos have helped me many times, to many actually.
Man I left my starter in when I did this. Getting that manifold out was tricky. Looking back I have no idea why I didn't take the starter out lol. 4 studs were snapped flush and I had to weld onto them. Full day just to change a manifold, I can't imagine the shop costs for this job!
My shop wants close to $1000
Nice tips Brian that will definitely help make the job easier!
Love the video and just did my 2003 Ford F-150 4.6 2v last week both sides. Not as miserable as 2004 up but nasty job none the less. My nuts all came off so I had to double and triple nut the studs to get them out . Used some Knipex pliers on a couple broken ones and they work so much better than vice grips. Don't think your using the stainless studs though. I took your advice and bought factory Ford gaskets as they are way better but they cost me more than the doorman exhaust manifold . Hated the job but your videos gave me the confidence to see it through.
I'll be replacing my passenger exhaust manifold, probably this weekend. Cracked it while towing a trailer. 60K miles on a 2008 HD F150, Saleen supercharged.
Thanks man I honestly was in the middle of it trying to take the bolts off and the strayer and man I almost gave up 😭 thanks for the tips and for this video I was able to replace it on a 2010 F-150 King Ranch
Thanks for the help! I did it just as you said and it would have worked perfectly if one of my studs behind the shock tower wouldn’t have refused to come out 😂 took two of us but we managed to get the new one on anyway. I found it helps to use a ratchet strap to pull the Cat towards the frame and out of the way. Thanks again!
Have to do this job tomorrow on a customer's vehicle. I hope all goes well. 🙏
Thanks for the information. Greetings from Bavaria, Germany.
Hi there brother, this is so amazing! I’m watching this and saying you are so patient and skillful; all of this is just to painful for a beginner,it needs to be done by someone like you a real pro. I have a e350 with this problem y sounds like crap! So I’ll be taking it to a shop! By the way thx for posting all this videos they are very helpful and interesting! Keep up the good work!
How much you pay for that repair
How much did you pay for it?
Great video and what I like is that you explained 💯 what needs to be done for this kind of work
Literally just did my passenger side one today,took me about 7 hrs,but zero broken studs,so thats a win,that being this job was an absolute pain in the ass,worse then the c.o.ps and plugs
Thank you. Your tips saved my butt.
Just think of the few changes Ford could have done to have the engine be able to drop through the frame or have the strut/control arm mount be unbolt able, it would make many jobs easier
Thank you so much brother I appreciate.
I am always watching your videos and thank you so much again that you sharing your experiences with us.
I have problem with my 2010 Ford F-150 if you can help me about that?
Wanted to say thank you for the vid. Only difficulty I had was I had to drop the manifold out of the bottom. I could not for the life of me get it to come out of the top like you did but hey, it's out. Going to reinstall with my 15 year old daughter today hopefully.
If the nut is too rounded or they spin off I used a very small pipe wrench...NOT vice grips!! worked great
+Stephan Fuchs Nice!
How come ford does not have these exhaust manifolds built to a higher standard? It always seems like these are a common occurance.
Chevy/Dodge are the same way. V8 engines warp the manifolds and break the bolts/studs off. 5-10 years of extreme heat/salt/dirt and the hardware is garbage
I have worked on the LS Blocks pretty much since they came out. Very rarely if ever have I seen one that needed an exhaust manifold replacement or corroded to the point that it requires doing extra work to extract oem manifold bolts. Seen this more on Hemi and 318's on the dodges but never as much as the triton series motors. Ford's 460 never was like this,
@@CSXtrackworker I had 2 GM's....2001 1500 and a 2002 2500hd and both driver side manifold bolts broke and caused leak. My dad's suburban is leaking today. Had to pull engine and drill out. It's not just Ford folks and don't even get me started on the LS camshaft woes.
Thank you! This video was a huge help for me to complete the drivers side manifold on my '10 F150
You do excellent work! My ford f150 need this done. Not sure if I would have the patients to do it the way you did great job
Did the job today. No broken studs. But the flange is leaking, even if very tight, like the fit with Dorman manifold is not good. Any tips?
I've got a 2010 F150 with the 5.4-3V, about 60k miles. I pray my exhaust manifolds don't Strat leaking (fingers crossed).
Try this on an Econoline van! After I had the nuts all off, the manifold was wedged between the frame and the exhaust pipe and hung on the studs. I took a sawzall and cut the manifold into two sections between the runners. It then came out in very easy to maneuver sections. The cast is very soft and cuts easy with a fresh metal blade. Then you can address the stud removal.
Bend there! My old arch nemesis. Vans been in the family for 15 years and I still own it. Too many memories raising a family it. My person replace that passenger side manifold gasket twice. But well worth it to me.
It's easy when the manifold stud nuts aren't rusted round or the front top stud isn't broke.
I have an 04 with this exact engine and this warped just like you said, & I only have 72K original miles in 2021!
I don't have an exhaust leak yet on my 2005 F150 but I will be replacing all of the studs with stainless steel and heat treated brass nuts this summer. I am a firm believer of preventive maintenance. Thanks for your quick reply.
An update I used stainless steel studs and nuts lubricated with anti size lubricate when installing the studs.
I am going to attempt this no leaks yet with mine. The plan is to not replace the manifold, but Should I replace the gaskets?
Wish the one I did would of been this easy. The header hardware was so bad multiple studs broke per side. Took the cab off and lifted the motor up. The cab's on these trucks are really easy to lift off the frame you would be surprised.
Thanks for all the videos you put out there for us ,,really helps ,, THANKS AGAIN
Great video! Thanks for the tips. I have to do this on both sides of my 2005 F-150 5.4 3v. Question for you, is there any benefit to lifting the engine a couple of inches (clearance etc)? I figured having to do the starter etc is a PITA so I might as well loose the motor mounts and try to lift the engine for better clearance. Thanks!
Many thanks! You gave me confidence to attack the job and saved me $!
Meanwhile I have a question, I scrolled through all the comments to find my answer but saw none about the heat shield... my Dorman exhaust manifold did not have a way to accept the heat shield from the original manifold. Out of curiosity, what am I missing here? I'm trusting that it's still fine as you've installed the same one in the video.
How has the doorman manifolds for this particular truck held up for people? just looking for honest opinions. I've seen them on Amazon much cheaper than I can get at my local shop. Or like RockAuto. This is for a 2010 Ford f150
Thanks for the video,Great help!! Just on question is the torque spec the same for the stainless studs and nuts?
Would like to have seen more detail with installing the studs and nuts on the bottom. Also how you did the top nut on the down tube.
I have done alot of gm manifolds and by far found these to be harder but always ready for a challenge
I was wondering why you wouldn't have used heat treated brass nuts or copper flange nuts on those studs instead of those stainless steel nuts. The brass nuts or copper flange nuts would be a lot easier to remove if you had to do it over again in the future. Excellent video great job very detailed.
Stainless come right apart too.
Awesome video thank you as always great job. Oh by the way I have a question, did you remove the fender well to make it easier to get to?
I respect your videos! You teach alot and I appreciate it.
Hey Brian you walked me through doing cam followers, gear chains and whatever else that needed done on my 2004 F150 5.4L and it was GREAT got it done and runs great. BUT now I have a cracked manifold on passenger side. When I was removing the studs the very hardest one on the bottom middle by the A-frame broke off down inside the head. We tried welding a bolt on it but can't get the weld to hold because it's broke off to far down in the head. Do you have any other ideas I can do before I have to take the head completely off. Do you think I could stick a lot of JBweld on a stud and let dry hard for a few days then put the manifold back on. Then weld a nut on the stud I JBwelded on. Then start the truck to heat up head then try backing the stud out slow when the head is good and hot...Again your videos are awesome and have helped me out a lot and saved me tons if money.. Thanks.
passenger side on my 2000 f150 5.4l without removing jacking up and removing tire. Cut off nuts and use needle nose vise grips to extract bolts. 💯
I have the same manifold to change and know it won't be anyways close to being as easy as he makes it look. I have a 08 service truck and it is a rust bucket underneath in the engine bay.
I reuse the old manifolds, have them surfaced at the machine shop for $40-50 per side. New ones are cheap metal and will warp like the old ones, Old ones surfaced are seasoned.
Came hoping to find torque sequence, was not disappointed! I guess for my Duratec 3.5L engine, it’s Left to Right (for the rear/R exhaust manifold) and Top to Bottom! Oh & I think the specifics say to torque to 177 lb-in 1st then on the second go to 216.
Thanks 🙏🏾
Thanks for the great informational video I think now I have confidence to tackle the job. Anything different for for a 2006 Super duty 5.4? I would imagine it's pretty similar to the F-150.
hey great video. i have same problem my 05 f250 blows gasket like they are free. best gasket ideas ???
I've had this done once when I got the truck with round 45,000 miles on it and I believe I am having the same problem again with 113,000 miles on the truck. I wonder if the correct studs were not used since you said you only need to do this once? I may see if I can tighten the bolts but they're pretty difficult to get to
Hi Brian, thank you for all the great videos. You are definitely my go to guy for our 2009 F150 with the 5.4. I replaced the drivers manifold last year with no issues. I have the passenger side off this year with not one broken bolt (amazing). Im at the point of putting the nuts on the studs but I find that the studs are turning with the nuts as I turn them. I had them snugged down as much as I thought I could but should they have been torqued first before putting the nuts on? I am soooooo afraid of breaking the new studs into the head. I had that nightmare with the other side when removing the old one. I see the nuts are the special ones with the 3 triangles that bite in. I wish I had an old head to tighten with all my might to see if they will break but I don't. Can you advise please.
love that line look like a round piece of cabbage lol good stuff
so I read through most of the comments but I didn't see a DIAGNOSES of what lead to this procedure in the 1st place. Ticking / knocking. Cold start up? After warmed up any noise tends to go away unless under load. How do you replicate? Visual? Carbon build up?
I appreciate FordTechMakuloco video's and usually he is pretty good about recording noises that lead to his diagnosis. Did I miss it? I too am interested in hearing a leaky manifold gasket "before" noise (the ticks) and whether a noise comes back under acceleration load. Thanks in advance.
How long is that extension
Hello. I notice that the manifold studs that you use don't look like the ones in your link from amazon. Are the studs you used the ones that came with the manifold you ordered itself? Or are the ones that are the stainless steel ones in your link, and they just don't come as pictured on amazon? Thanks
Grease the mating surfaces and 'NeverSieze' the stud threads. The great thing about Ford is once you find the engineer's trick, the job is essentially a cash cow!