I’ve watched around 20 of your videos this past week while I’ve been working on my 4.6. You’ve helped me out a ton while I’ve been trying to figure out this engine. I’m a carpenter by trade so I’m not exactly an expert when it comes to automotive repairs but your videos have made so many things possible for me to take care of myself. Keep up the good work!
Have 320K miles on my 06 F150 and on a recent trip to the beach had this happen to me... Cruising at 75-80mph for about 45 minutes, came to a stop to make a turn, truck started shaking and running rough, tried to coast and she died. She started right back up and we finished our trip, but now I am studying up on how to do a complete timing change. Thanks for these videos.
@@KollynJ Yes, I sure did. Had my iPad in the garage with Brian's videos pulled up. I planned on doing it over two weekends but was able to get it done in one. My truck is still running great with 360k miles. I would say, when the truck sputters especially under light load, my experience has been a bad coil pack. I bought a $30 OBD scanner from HF to determine if I have a misfire code and what cylinder, then swap it with a known good one and try again (learned from Brian btw). If I get a misfire on the known good cylinder I know the coil pack is bad.
I watched your video until I understood its contents. I have a 2009 Ford Expidition 5.4. I got my work bench prepared with the tools to do the job, bought the Ford VCT's from amazon and new valve cover gaskets. It took me 4 hours start to finish to do the job. Thank you Sir.
I took my 08 f150 to three shops that could not diagnose this issue thanks to you I was able to get my truck back on the road after 2 years thanks for your help! I also recommend everyone asking questions to go through his gold mine of videos before wasting time
December 2023 After watching all your 5.4- 3valve videos I didn't want to buy a used Ford, butI did two days ago (2009 F-150 5.4 with 229,000miles). The truck is said to have had the timing chain done and a high volume oil pump. Right when I returned from a test drive the engine started rocking and knocking. I said, "oh oh, whats up now?" the seller admitted he had a diagnoses of the right bank cam out of timing. I shut the truck off and restarted it after a minute and it was smooth again. I knew right away the problem and looked up the parts and bought the truck anyway. Only $1700 for the rusty Michigan truck. Thanks, the truck is a great improvement over my rusty 1996 Dodge.
Chris - nice video I worked on GM engines 283's and 327's back in the 60's and 70's. And later flathead ford 6's and 302's and 390's. We would be happy to see valve covers as clean as this one. Normally there would be up to a quarter inch of black hard sludge buildup such that we would have to scrape them out with a hand scraper and then wash them with a stiff fibre brush and clean varsol. An engine today has to be hundreds of times cleaner than those old beasts.
Exactly what I was thinking. My Dad was a mechanic working from home ‘69-‘73. I used to be the one to clean all the parts and scrape gaskets and such. That valve cover was beautiful compared to what I used to see.
One of the best F150 video instructors on the web. I particularly like the detail on re-assembly of the wiring harness - its clearer than showing someone struggling to disassemble. Tkx
Thank you for your video's my Ford dealer in Dubuque Ia told me i needed a new engine at the tune of $8500.00 on a 2004 with 85000 miles on it and low and behold your VCT replacement recomendation solved my rough idle after warmup problem i was able to change them out without removing the valve covers through the VCT port and just replace the caps also thank you for you videos.
Man thank you so much FordTechMakuloco for posting these 5.4 VCT videos. I had to replace mine at 88k and it was def the ticking/knocking noise i was trying so hard to diagnose. You are the man! Thank you so much 👍
Wanted to say thank you for posting these videos. I changed out both VCT Solenoids in my 2005 Expedition and it was a breeze thanks to the info you provided. I didn't have to take off the valve cover for mine (thank God), but I will probably have to tackle that valve cover someday. Anyway, thanks again for your help on here!
@@zacharymundell8508 Holy hell, it's been 5 years since I did that? Wow. Anywho... I believe I popped that seal out from around the top of the solenoid and used driver extensions to get to the fasteners. I was avoiding taking the cover off, but I eventually had to do the entire timing job, so this process was futile in the end.
have a 2007 Mustang GT 140,000 miles bought it with 3,000 and I've never changed them, still runs great but will change them here shortly. Original clutch, never changed the rear axle, transmission fluid, and coolant. Checked the fluids and they all looked original so i never bothered.
Excellent work man I just did my timing and you walked me through it from the start, this is the finishing video it took me two months everything was rusted (new england)
I run hot shot secret oil additive in my 06 f250 5.4. It’s got 275,000 miles on it. Only thing I’ve replaced is the alternator ( internal wire broke ) and I change the spark plugs every 30,000 miles with the new champion one piece plugs. Truck still has factory coils. I change the oil every 4500-5000 miles with full synthetic 5w30.
There is a rubber plug around the solenoid that you can take a small screwdriver and pop out. This saves you from having to take off the whole valve cover.
And also , when ur trying too take out the bolt ,it can fall inside the cams or valves or even the engine block , , because not enough leverage , it's better to just open it up it's not that hard
Woo Hoo you are the best. It was a VCT solenoid that was stuck. and checked it out the way you instructed and Yep it purred like a kitten. Thank you for all your help and my mechanic wants to know how much we owe you. LOL Thanks again for your help
I did the replacement on a 2008 (9/07 build) Expedition and didn't have to take the AC loose on the passengers side but did have to remove the expansion tank on the drivers side. Took 4 hours total. Make sure you have compressed air to blow out the area around the COPs and then the area around the plugs after you remove the COPs, my engine is clean but there was still a lot of grit in these areas. Worth the time as it runs like NEW, was throwing P0018 and many others and ran like a dog. Top screen on VCT on drivers side was torn, likely the cause of all the issues. Glad to see how clean the interior of the valve cover was. Thanks to UA-cam / Google I saved $$$$$$! Used REAL Ford parts from local dealer, $200 including 2x VCTs, 2x VCT seals, 2x Valve Cover Gaskets.
I am in awe of you and your knowledge. If i only knew a quarter of what you know about cars I would be the greatest tech in my area. Sincerely, thank you for sharing your experience with those of us that only dream of being as good as you!
Bought my 5.4 brand new it has 275k no ticking no knocking only thing done is plugs, coils intake manifold gasket still has factory water pump. First oil change done at 100 miles 2nd 500 miles 3rd 1000 . Full synthetic every 3k miles after that. Coolant flush every 3 years. I'm 100% convicted all the so called common issues with the 5.4 are from poor maintenance cause I've never had any of the issues with my engine.
Hey, Makuloco. I glommed onto this comment because I have the 4.6 and I have noticed a weird kind of croak noise and the sound of liquid trickling that happens about 10 seconds after it's shut off. I thought it was just something decompressing, maybe the coolant or water pump. Today I discovered that the trickle is oil dripping pretty heavily for a few minutes, then it stops. Can you tell what that croak might be?
"04 F150 4x4. Changed mine from the outside long before I saw this video. Went well, the rubber gasket the surrounds them is a pain to get out and the "pucker" factor is huge when pulling that screw out. Just pull it out with the solenoid so it doesn't fall into the engine. Really enjoy your video's. Just had my timing system completely changed, $2700.
2012 ford expedition 5.4 3v 188 k mi. I was going on a vacation from El Paso to San Antonio I pulled over to use.the John and when I was taking off it started to tough idle oil light flashing and it died had to tow it back home. Giving me po300 po301 po301 it only starts when I floor it but had it for two years no issues until now.
Did this repair to my 2007 Mustang GT over the weekend, awesome! Thanks for the video. I enjoy that my car now sounds like it did when I bought it, not like a diesel with a crappy idle after long periods of driving. FYI be careful with the valve cover bolts when re-tightening. I managed to shear one off when putting one of the covers back on as I was on the home stretch to being done and back off the cover had to come to dig that bolt out. Dang it!
Excellent stuff. On occasion there can be backfires when these fail, and an important thing to check is the vacuum connector at the rear of the intake which goes to the brake booster. That small hose right at the intake can swell up like a balloon and cause a very tricky-to-find vacuum leak. Happened to me on my 09 Expedition.
Huge fan here. You are my go to for modular engines! I have an aging 06 v10 6.8 liter in an f350. I want to keep it going, can you make a few instructional videos on this motor??
A BIG Thank you for the video and the series on VCT. I got the Ford VCT's and replaced the old ones. Which to my surprise, were not Ford parts but VAICO. (??) Change out took less than an hour and so far running much better and smoother; No shaking at stops included. Phasers are worn on my 2006 F150 (170K) and I do see a new motor in my future but for now I have faith she will hold up for a while. Again, Thank you!
Thank you, thank you, thank you! You nailed the diagnosis and remedy exactly. My 2009 F150 with the 5.4 and 200,000 mi started shaking like crazy when I came to a stop over a year ago. Local shop said it was the cam phasers and wanted about $3000 to fix. Could not do that, so drove for a year with the left foot braking and right foot giving a little gas to keep the motor running. Did research off and on, but it wasn't until I found your video that I knew the solenoids were my problem. Used to do all my own work years ago and your video gave me the confidence to know I could do this. The first solenoid I pulled had the same busted screens. The links to the needed supplies made it very easy, thank you! I also changed the spark plugs at this time and I would suggest anyone replacing the solenoids also check out FordTechMakuloco video for that. The truck now runs and idles normally! Your video was truly a Godsend.
I have seen a couple videos where you can just remove the seal, but those were older model engines than mine. For my 2009 F150, you have to remove the valve cover, the seal opening is too small.
Brian, can you please do a video on how you were able to get to the valve covers, there is a lot of stuff that needs to be removed before you get to the point where your video pick up
You don't actually have to take it off in order to replace the VVT (VCT) solenoid. The grommet comes out and it can be replaced I recommend you go about it that way
@@daviddlugosielski3020 Yeah! I agree with you David. Brian took off the valve covers to remove the VCTs but they could be removed from the port holes externally. Wonder why he did it that way?
Thank you bro your videos have help Me a lot since I have a 2005 5.4 Ford thanks amor I have 275000 miles on my Ford so I should replace them before it gives me trouble
My apologies on such a late response, it sounded like the lifters then I was told the valves. But just got annoyed and sent it out to get done. Then I finally got to reading and researching found the vct solenoid replacement kit might work so far a lot better then before. Good luck God bless
Have the P0341 code for bank 1 and sometimes rough idle and dying described here. At 152k miles my engine very clean inside so hope this solves it and not another computer problem. Btw. 2010 Explorer 4.6, 8 bolts on right. 9 on left.
You don't have to remove the valve cover at all!. Around the solenoid there's a rubber Bushing that pops out there is one bolt that holds the solenoids. This saves a ton of work
I just did this but your valve cover has the big VCT seal which if you removed and changed it, you’d know that you could have replaced the solenoid without taking the valve covers off. My VCT hole was the diameter of the solenoid so I had to remove the valve cover. You also didn’t change the seal.
Thank you! I will have a mechanic replace them. I have been watching videos. Another guy suggested to disconnect these vct valves until replaced. The truck will run with no problem. Except the check engine light. I have disconnected these selenoids and I am driving it. I was even able to tow a dump trailer...
1:26, this is exactly what I'm dealing with. Originally was going to "try" changing solenoids as a solution, but it sounds like it's more than a "try" but an actual solution.
really thank you for making these. especially the one on changing the timing chain. I plan on doing mine in the furture and i can just follow your video step by step if need be.
It should be noted that in another of your videos you changed the Solenoids on a 5.4L 3V by popping the seal and using a Torx (T27 I believe) to unscrew the bolt and replace it. No valve cover removal needed.
This only applies up until mid year 2007 after that you must pull the cover. Plus any service valve covers sold also require valve cover removal to replace the vct solenoid.
Aw man I’m really hoping this is my problem, having the exact issue you described of stalling at stop signs, just wasn’t sure if I should change my Camshaft position sensor since I got a p0340 code on my 2004 5.4L F150. But I was also thinking my VCT solenoids might be the issue. I’m going to start with that 👍
Any luck? Just did both CPS's (bank 1 and 2) and all the coils... I don't want to do the plugs. Still, dealing with idle issues and stalling after it warms up.
@joeroe2839 it was the cam phasers, due to ford using plastic timing chain guides, throwing off the timing and eating my rockers causing the tick against the cam. I was able to drive it for a while by just unplugging the cam sensors but eventually I knew that tick was just chewing up the lobes on the cam. Had to do phasers, timing chains, cams, rockers and guides, (and of course plugs while in there, because of their tendency to break).
Purchased the wedge and spring compressor when I swapped out my Mustang cams. Cost about $300.00 CA. Something to be aware of if using the spring compressor, watch carefully that the spring retainers don't come loose and disengage the valve stem making it possible to drop your valve into the cylinder. Great video!! (as usual)
Please redo this video. Other people are using a different technique and it saves soo much time! I trust your channel but now I'm stuck. My 2008 has a metal pipe going to the brake booster and it's preventing the cover from coming off but now that it's half way, I need to replace the gasket. I'm stuck! So this video is out dated and doesn't apply to all models. Watch the other guys how they replace the VCT.
I have NEVER had to remove the V/C to get the solenoid valves out. Just be careful and trust the captive design for the cap screw and pull the solenoid valve simultaneously with fastener removal.
dang it...I have an 07 f150 that shakes n rattles when coming to a stop and on idle for a few seconds...thinking of changing these but was hoping I didn't have to take the covers out..😢
I bought an 04 5.4 about a month ago runs great except for this little problem with the VCT, but it sounds like a diesel. What's up with that, have you come across any reasons why ? Thanks !
Dillon Turner I got my 04 with the 3v at 204k miles, and it had the light knock. I now have 216k on it and it runs fine. Knock has not gotten worse. I just continue to change the oil. I know at some point the engine will fail but then I'll just put a 5.0 in it, or a Cummins 4 cylinder.
You just said what I suspected. My 05 F-150, 5.4, sounds like a diesel. I have the new VCT solenoids I just haven't put them in yet. When I cold start it, I give it extra time to warm up, it just sounds like the bottom end is coming apart. The computer ( idiot light ) says oil pressure is good but to my ears, it sounds like not enough oil passing through the engine. Dang, I hope it's not the head. I have 166k on it and it runs great but??? Thanks for posting this helps a lot.
Jim Wills the guy I bought it from had it serviced according to the owner's manual at the dealer since he bought it. He had all the documentation to prove it. He said it had been like that since he remembers. From what I read online as long as it's the VCT, and not the cam or anything else, the only thing you're going to suffer is some terrible gas mileage
Joshua Jones The truck runs great, except when the idle goes bonkers do to those solenoids. ( at a stop) Gas mileage however could be a bit better. In the city i'm getting 10.5, and Hwy 12.5, and I keep my foot out of it. Like I said above, a cold start sounds just like the loose tolerance of a diesel. After it's been driven and warmed up, it's no where near like the start up, yet everyone ask is it a diesel. I guess, I just need to get under the hood and change those VCTs out and go from there. Thanks Josh....Josh, does yours have that cold start bottom end loud chatter?
I have this issue described. Low oil pressure at idle around 20 psi. Idle around 500 rpm. Clanking noise and dies at stop light. Mechanic told me it’s likely oil pump.
Can you show how to do the PASSENGER side valve cover removal ? Seems tough and I may be wrong, but does the wiring harness go away toward the fender as opposed to the driver side over the top ?
Great videos! I’ve learned to do so much on my truck from these. Thanks so much. I’ve recognize the music in the background on some of your videos, right on 👍👍
Hi, I have an 06' lincoln navigator that recently just all of a sudden started with low oil pressure and subsequently started with the knocking in the engine. I took it to the Ford and they said upon first inspection that it was the VCT solenoid, the next day they came back with the engine being shot and replacement needed ($6800). I just can't believe that its the engine. I'm the only owner and in recent years have't driven it much because of my commute during the week. The knocking is not constant when turned on, it will start fine and then after a couple of miles it starts with the noise, which sounds kinda like a diesel engine. The noise is mostly heard on the left/drivers side by the tire when hood down. Prior to this problem, it was suffering from a misfire at around 60 mph(it would get shaky) but past that ran fine. I just want some feedback and any suggestions because I feel that as a woman, I may be taken advantage of.
Would this also cause my 2010 f150 4.6l to sputter when accelerating? All new spark plugs, ignition coils, and fuel pump and still sputters when trying to accelerate to pass or gain speed for the speed limit.
I think this might be my issue.. 08 f150. Triton 5.4.... Has a knock sound at idle and almost wants to die sometimes when coming to a stop, especially when turning around.. Low throttle it idles and runs rough and sometimes dies. Once driving and up on the rpms its runs fine and smooth with no issues at all.
I had the issue where my 2006 explorer 4.6 would idle a little rough w/o a/c on. Once turn a/c on and engine was hot enough when coming to a stop would definitely shutdown on me and or accelerate horrible. And most cases would turn fan off and a/c i would just get air coming out. Replaced the vct solenoids i gained horse power and respons but still have the same problem.
I’ve got a 5.4 3v in the shop that keeps setting p0012 and p0022. Runs perfect until you load the engine and then it loses a lot of power and idles very roughly. If you stab the gas it smoothed out again and idles fine. I was thinking it had a bad phaser or solenoid getting stuck. I opened the timing cover up and all the components are brand new dealer parts.
Has anyone followed this video? Can you please tell me how long this should take the average Joe from start to finish? The reason I ask is Makuloco starts with the valve covers already pulled and i will be doing this outdoors. I would like to give myself enough time to finish before dark, Thank you.
had classic vct symptoms and finally warm enough to try solenoid charge on 06 5.4 xlt. Started on driver side, broke connector on wire going to front cover , heat damage and caked full of blue.I made a new connector and put back together without new solenoid and its quiet, no knocking and smooth idle with more power! I still saved solenoids for future ,but look under power steering res bracket, might get lucky like me ,had stuff in cupboard,good old Wisconsin salt and heat.Your videos are the best !!!
When replacing these should you do both if not what issues could it cause. I replaced one and now my mph are 10 over what I’m actually going but my rpm are correct
@fordtechmukaloco man i have a 2010 f150 5.4l 3v and its got a real rough idle surge from 1k -1.5k rpm back and fourth back and fourth. It also has a problem with 4wd theres almost no vaccum at the solenoid just passed the check valve but no grinding noises and i can hear the transfer case do its thing, still no 4wd and it revs real high like its not in gear almost when in 4lo along with the diesel sounding and rough idle, the surge only happens in park .
Great video, also great diagnosis video for this problem. Thanks for doing these. I believe you have narrow down the problem for me. I am having the harsh shuttering at stop signs & at idle after driving but I did want to ask, would the VCT also cause engine shaking at higher speeds? & delay in acceleration like when I hold the accelerator at the same position for a few seconds then all of a sudden a burst of power? I have been tracking down this problem for a while. Have installed new coils, plugs, injectors, can & crank sensors, tps, throttle body & new pigtails where needed. This all fixed a lot of low power issues but the hesitation/shutter at higher speeds & harsh shutter at idle & stops still remained. Thanks in advance.
@@gerardogonzalez9586 Hey! Yes I did fix this. I’m not exactly sure what fixed it in the end. I finally decided to just go ahead & do the timing chains...which the drivers side had jumped a tooth due to the plastic guides/tensioners shattering & giving too much slack. I replaced everything, timing chain, guides, tensioners, phasers, VCT...all with Ford OEM parts. While I had the engine out I replaced all pigtails on the coils & injectors too...which I had replaced coils & injectors previously like you probably with no change in the hesitation. Once put back together all hesitation was gone, if I have cruise control on & hit a big hill I lose 1-2 mph rather than 10 & the engine doesn’t skip any while idling. An expensive fix...around $2,800 doing it yourself (I do not recommend)...well, the $2,800 was with oil pump, motor mounts, valve covers...everything I could replace while I had the engine out...or $3,800+ at a shop. Ford will put a new engine in for around $6,000-6,800 last I checked. May be the better...easier...route if you have the money & plan to keep the truck for a long time. Hope this helps! & good luck!
@@calvinw78 why do you think ford engineers complicated replacement of the selenoid?, do you think it is for some sort of performance enhancement on the part?
Is it true the older 5.4 which is 2008 early model has a different vct solenoid . The newer 5.4 which they updated the sparkplug , the vct can’t be remove without removing the valve cover is that true
I have a question: What is MOA & EPR Motor Oil Additive Lubrication and what does it do? And 2? Gasket, put in dry gasket and then seal it with valve cover and then reconnect the battery or not during the process. Thanks
Ford tech makuloco- I bought my 05 F150 5.4 3 valve and shortly after it started making a lot of noise from the front of the motor. I changed phasers, solenoids, cam chain, tensioners, guides, pretty much everything to do with the timing as well as the oil pump. I'm getting a check engine light with a code of p0020 but the truck is not running rough. It is severely lacking power but not running rough or knocking or anything like that at low RPMs or high RPMs. I was wondering if the VVT solenoids could be causing a lack of power and not cause rough idle or engine noise. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I know they have helped me alot since I have bought my F-150! Also thanks for any and all help you or anyone else can offer.
I did this job and cheaped on ebay fake ford solenoids it took me a whole day to do now itll take me a couple hours each side but lesson learned buy from the link or ford dealer
I have an 04' F-150 triton that runs pretty good most of the time. When I drive it on the street or freeways I have no problem but when I take long trips and hauling with my AC full blast that's when it starts to really shake bad. Do you think it could be the VCT solenoids even though it doesn't shake on normal driving conditions? It also sounds like a Diesel engine a buddy said it might be the timing chains that tend to lose tension after time. Thanks in advance.
I've got a 1997 ford f150 4.6 triton. around 200k on it. it has a skip like a misfire. code said misfire on #8 plug. fixed it, then code p402. fixed it also. still skipping bad, no codes coming up? did a complete tune up, motorcraft plugs, wires, & both coil packs. it still skips like 3 kids with a new jump rope. ever seen this before with your ford experience?
Holy crap I had no idea those were the vct solenoids, I'm still learning a lot about my 4.6 on my 2008 Mustang GT. You described perfectly what is happening, i go for a drive and everything is normal but once I come to a stop, things start to get very bad.... I'm going to check my passenger side solenoid. Dammit I just put the valve cover back on too...
@@nfsking4826 thats what I use as well. Also its funny you replied here, I still have my mustang and the solenoids are acting up again, I have new ones and have to replace them
@@SangheiliSpecOpwould ur motor rattle and knock ? i chnaged timing chain cam phasers guides and tensioners but motor is still rattling and knocking. i heard replacing this will help my problem ?
Is there a difference between the VCT and a VVT "Variable Timing Solenoid"? I ask because I and replacing my Camshaft Phaser and it was suggested to replace the VVT Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid / Actuator also.
I couldn't find a video you made on a pcv valve replacement on the 5.4l 3 valve. I'm consuming a little bit oil and I thought well I think I'll change the pcv valve if it has one.
Could this cause a P0018, P0022, P0171, P0300, P0306, P0307, P0308, P0316, or is it more likely that the cam jumped timing? Super rough idle, but it still starts and runs. 150k miles. 2007 mustang gt. I guess I'll know for sure when I pull the valve cover off, right?
I have a 2013 F150 FX2 with roughly 150K miles. My truck doesn't idle rough, but the oil pressure gauge will drop and it will stall when I am stopped. When moving everything is fine. The mechanic stated that I had 4 solenoids....2 on each side. I'm comfortable with changing these myself, but he mentioned 4 and all I can find is info on just having 2....1 per side. Could he be talking about something else or should I find another mechanic for the more complicated things? Great videos!! I enjoy watching even if they don't pertain to my vehicle and I'm not having issues. Never hurts to learn.
Any chance you can do a video on the VCT solenoid on 5.0L F150.. I have a 2014 and it is a different looking solenoid. If not do you by chance know of one, I have not found that many vids out there on the 5.0l
Why don’t you remove the seal around the VCT Solenoid instead of removing the valve cover? Every other video I’ve seen shows them removing the seal around the VCT Solenoid.
They got smart and the newer year models have it where you have to take off valve cover to get to it now instead of changing it from outside easy like it used to be. Guess it wasn't dumb enough for the engineers. Whoever came up with the idea of changing it like this now should be kicked in the nuts
06 5.4 expidition. Did timing, phasers, etc. Not vct. Still pulling p0358 ect. Should have fished more for this vid, your others were very helpful. Saw vid where they just pulled vct cover, not valve. Recommened? Replacable gasket?
I put duralast vtc solenoids in my 4.6 3 valve engine in my STX F150 3 months ago and now after watching this video and hearing you say only buy Ford vtc solenoids is my truck going to be ok or should I change them back to Ford before I have problems
Hey getting a p0010 now after replacing the vct sensor on bank one the sensor is not oem though can that cause issues with timing or should I change both out with oem or change the other one to the same aftermarket one from O'Reilly I even unplugged the vct sensors and it still was knocking and running rough
Youre absolutely amazing and have been watching you for the last few weeks after purchasing a 2007 F150 super cab with the 5.4 3v. I have watched other videos and they pull the top gasket and pull the solenoid through the valve cover without removing it, are these videos legit?
Hello, I have that common shake at idle and think and hope its just the VCT. Codes thrown were P0016 crankshaft position, camshaft position correlation bank 1 sensor A. To do the quick test to see if the VCT is stuck open do you have to unplug both then drive around the block or just the suspected problem one?
Would love to see you cover VCT replacement on the current F150 5.0 engines....lots of chat room talk on this subject but no youtube content out there.
It would help if you could provide information on the differences between the 2004 3V and the 2005-2008. I know the cam covers and the VCT's seals are different.
Now that i see how thin the timing chain is..... (almost as thin as my VW/ Skoda 1.2 engine :-) ) Do Ford's 4.6 l V8 engines also have common problems with the timing chains?
I know it’s 7 years later…but I can’t thank you enough man. Appreciate the hell out of your videos.
Dang straight he knows his stuff he’s the go too man on fords
The only thing on this engine that does not go bad is the dip stick!
You sure cause I can barely read my dipstick lmaooooo
Even on fresh oil change
One had a tube rust through on a 5.4
lol. Same here. 😅.
My dip stick tub got rusted and the dip stick fell off
I’ve watched around 20 of your videos this past week while I’ve been working on my 4.6. You’ve helped me out a ton while I’ve been trying to figure out this engine. I’m a carpenter by trade so I’m not exactly an expert when it comes to automotive repairs but your videos have made so many things possible for me to take care of myself. Keep up the good work!
Have 320K miles on my 06 F150 and on a recent trip to the beach had this happen to me... Cruising at 75-80mph for about 45 minutes, came to a stop to make a turn, truck started shaking and running rough, tried to coast and she died. She started right back up and we finished our trip, but now I am studying up on how to do a complete timing change. Thanks for these videos.
Did you end up doing it? Mine stalled once after idling in warm weather then coming to stop but nothing noticed since
@@KollynJ Yes, I sure did. Had my iPad in the garage with Brian's videos pulled up. I planned on doing it over two weekends but was able to get it done in one. My truck is still running great with 360k miles. I would say, when the truck sputters especially under light load, my experience has been a bad coil pack.
I bought a $30 OBD scanner from HF to determine if I have a misfire code and what cylinder, then swap it with a known good one and try again (learned from Brian btw). If I get a misfire on the known good cylinder I know the coil pack is bad.
I watched your video until I understood its contents. I have a 2009 Ford Expidition 5.4. I got my work bench prepared with the tools to do the job, bought the Ford VCT's from amazon and new valve cover gaskets. It took me 4 hours start to finish to do the job. Thank you Sir.
I do not know what you make off this channel, but it is not enough. Many thanks.
Thanks Brian. Man, I don't know how you do it. Instructional videos, editing, message replies; work on cars. Cheers to you Brian
+Daniel Gomez I am definitely busy but that's good.
I took my 08 f150 to three shops that could not diagnose this issue thanks to you I was able to get my truck back on the road after 2 years thanks for your help! I also recommend everyone asking questions to go through his gold mine of videos before wasting time
December 2023 After watching all your 5.4- 3valve videos I didn't want to buy a used Ford, butI did two days ago (2009 F-150 5.4 with 229,000miles). The truck is said to have had the timing chain done and a high volume oil pump. Right when I returned from a test drive the engine started rocking and knocking. I said, "oh oh, whats up now?" the seller admitted he had a diagnoses of the right bank cam out of timing. I shut the truck off and restarted it after a minute and it was smooth again.
I knew right away the problem and looked up the parts and bought the truck anyway. Only $1700 for the rusty Michigan truck. Thanks, the truck is a great improvement over my rusty 1996 Dodge.
Chris - nice video
I worked on GM engines 283's and 327's back in the 60's and 70's. And later flathead ford 6's and 302's and 390's. We would be happy to see valve covers as clean as this one. Normally there would be up to a quarter inch of black hard sludge buildup such that we would have to scrape them out with a hand scraper and then wash them with a stiff fibre brush and clean varsol. An engine today has to be hundreds of times cleaner than those old beasts.
Exactly what I was thinking. My Dad was a mechanic working from home ‘69-‘73. I used to be the one to clean all the parts and scrape gaskets and such. That valve cover was beautiful compared to what I used to see.
One of the best F150 video instructors on the web. I particularly like the detail on re-assembly of the wiring harness - its clearer than showing someone struggling to disassemble. Tkx
Thank you for your video's my Ford dealer in Dubuque Ia told me i needed a new engine at the tune of $8500.00 on a 2004 with 85000 miles on it and low and behold your VCT replacement recomendation solved my rough idle after warmup problem i was able to change them out without removing the valve covers through the VCT port and just replace the caps also thank you for you videos.
do explain please, vct port?
Man thank you so much FordTechMakuloco for posting these 5.4 VCT videos. I had to replace mine at 88k and it was def the ticking/knocking noise i was trying so hard to diagnose. You are the man! Thank you so much 👍
was it knocking at idle or just in drive under a load?
Wanted to say thank you for posting these videos. I changed out both VCT Solenoids in my 2005 Expedition and it was a breeze thanks to the info you provided. I didn't have to take off the valve cover for mine (thank God), but I will probably have to tackle that valve cover someday. Anyway, thanks again for your help on here!
How did you do it without removing the valve cover?
@@zacharymundell8508 Holy hell, it's been 5 years since I did that? Wow. Anywho... I believe I popped that seal out from around the top of the solenoid and used driver extensions to get to the fasteners. I was avoiding taking the cover off, but I eventually had to do the entire timing job, so this process was futile in the end.
The 05’s don’t require it. Only like 07 and up, or maybe 09 and up. Different design
have a 2007 Mustang GT 140,000 miles bought it with 3,000 and I've never changed them, still runs great but will change them here shortly. Original clutch, never changed the rear axle, transmission fluid, and coolant. Checked the fluids and they all looked original so i never bothered.
wow amazing,,my 07 gt has 46K miles on it,,got it when it had 20K,,,,its been a great car and a blast to drive
Thanks a lot! I'm in the process of replacing mines on 2010 5.4L v3 F150.
Couldn't do it without this videos. Thanks again!
Excellent work man I just did my timing and you walked me through it from the start, this is the finishing video it took me two months everything was rusted (new england)
I run hot shot secret oil additive in my 06 f250 5.4. It’s got 275,000 miles on it. Only thing I’ve replaced is the alternator ( internal wire broke ) and I change the spark plugs every 30,000 miles with the new champion one piece plugs.
Truck still has factory coils.
I change the oil every 4500-5000 miles with full synthetic 5w30.
There is a rubber plug around the solenoid that you can take a small screwdriver and pop out. This saves you from having to take off the whole valve cover.
Some years you can't take the plug out. Like mine. And you yotta remove valve cover
On 07 and up model years you can’t do that
And also , when ur trying too take out the bolt ,it can fall inside the cams or valves or even the engine block , , because not enough leverage , it's better to just open it up it's not that hard
6:13
@@Ben-qy7clgreat information 😮
Woo Hoo you are the best. It was a VCT solenoid that was stuck. and checked it out the way you instructed and Yep it purred like a kitten. Thank you for all your help and my mechanic wants to know how much we owe you. LOL Thanks again for your help
FYI Control Solenoid x2 8L3Z-6M280-B-OEM, Valve Cover Seal Gaskets x2 3L3Z-6C35-AA "Solenoid Seal"
I did the replacement on a 2008 (9/07 build) Expedition and didn't have to take the AC loose on the passengers side but did have to remove the expansion tank on the drivers side. Took 4 hours total. Make sure you have compressed air to blow out the area around the COPs and then the area around the plugs after you remove the COPs, my engine is clean but there was still a lot of grit in these areas. Worth the time as it runs like NEW, was throwing P0018 and many others and ran like a dog. Top screen on VCT on drivers side was torn, likely the cause of all the issues. Glad to see how clean the interior of the valve cover was. Thanks to UA-cam / Google I saved $$$$$$! Used REAL Ford parts from local dealer, $200 including 2x VCTs, 2x VCT seals, 2x Valve Cover Gaskets.
did you have to remove the valve cover?
+Badr Fisal Yes, both sides, but not the AC hose. This is on a 5.4 Expo built 9/07
Thanks I have the same vehicle and model
I am in awe of you and your knowledge. If i only knew a quarter of what you know about cars I would be the greatest tech in my area. Sincerely, thank you for sharing your experience with those of us that only dream of being as good as you!
he's married sweetheart try to find your daughter another Daddy
I though I had a vacuum leak I came to a stop and I just found this so it should fix my problem thanks bro
Bought my 5.4 brand new it has 275k no ticking no knocking only thing done is plugs, coils intake manifold gasket still has factory water pump. First oil change done at 100 miles 2nd 500 miles 3rd 1000 . Full synthetic every 3k miles after that. Coolant flush every 3 years. I'm 100% convicted all the so called common issues with the 5.4 are from poor maintenance cause I've never had any of the issues with my engine.
5w20?
I am so glad I bought a 2007 F150 with the 4.6L SOHC. It lacks a little power when towing 6K but its reliable as heck
m ph Agreed
m ph Lacking alittle power towing 6k will pay off when your empty & go to refill the tank!
Hey, Makuloco. I glommed onto this comment because I have the 4.6 and I have noticed a weird kind of croak noise and the sound of liquid trickling that happens about 10 seconds after it's shut off. I thought it was just something decompressing, maybe the coolant or water pump. Today I discovered that the trickle is oil dripping pretty heavily for a few minutes, then it stops. Can you tell what that croak might be?
I miss my old 97 4.6 already lmao
I have a 96 mustang gt with a sohc 4.6 tried everything to get the shaking out but not this.. could changing the vct sensor help me?
"04 F150 4x4. Changed mine from the outside long before I saw this video. Went well, the rubber gasket the surrounds them is a pain to get out and the "pucker" factor is huge when pulling that screw out. Just pull it out with the solenoid so it doesn't fall into the engine. Really enjoy your video's. Just had my timing system completely changed, $2700.
2012 ford expedition 5.4 3v 188 k mi. I was going on a vacation from El Paso to San Antonio I pulled over to use.the John and when I was taking off it started to tough idle oil light flashing and it died had to tow it back home. Giving me po300 po301 po301 it only starts when I floor it but had it for two years no issues until now.
Did this repair to my 2007 Mustang GT over the weekend, awesome! Thanks for the video. I enjoy that my car now sounds like it did when I bought it, not like a diesel with a crappy idle after long periods of driving.
FYI be careful with the valve cover bolts when re-tightening. I managed to shear one off when putting one of the covers back on as I was on the home stretch to being done and back off the cover had to come to dig that bolt out. Dang it!
What were the symptoms of a bad solenoid
I watched both the videos concerning this issue and they are exactly my problem. Thank you
Man this guy saving me alot of cash The Top Ford Technicien in the World #1 No one can top him!! Thanks alot!!
Excellent stuff. On occasion there can be backfires when these fail, and an important thing to check is the vacuum connector at the rear of the intake which goes to the brake booster. That small hose right at the intake can swell up like a balloon and cause a very tricky-to-find vacuum leak. Happened to me on my 09 Expedition.
Huge fan here. You are my go to for modular engines! I have an aging 06 v10 6.8 liter in an f350. I want to keep it going, can you make a few instructional videos on this motor??
A BIG Thank you for the video and the series on VCT. I got the Ford VCT's and replaced the old ones. Which to my surprise, were not Ford parts but VAICO. (??) Change out took less than an hour and so far running much better and smoother; No shaking at stops included. Phasers are worn on my 2006 F150 (170K) and I do see a new motor in my future but for now I have faith she will hold up for a while. Again, Thank you!
Thank you, thank you, thank you! You nailed the diagnosis and remedy exactly. My 2009 F150 with the 5.4 and 200,000 mi started shaking like crazy when I came to a stop over a year ago. Local shop said it was the cam phasers and wanted about $3000 to fix. Could not do that, so drove for a year with the left foot braking and right foot giving a little gas to keep the motor running. Did research off and on, but it wasn't until I found your video that I knew the solenoids were my problem. Used to do all my own work years ago and your video gave me the confidence to know I could do this. The first solenoid I pulled had the same busted screens. The links to the needed supplies made it very easy, thank you! I also changed the spark plugs at this time and I would suggest anyone replacing the solenoids also check out FordTechMakuloco video for that. The truck now runs and idles normally! Your video was truly a Godsend.
Hi Conebeam, can you provide little details please. Like did you changed the solenoids by removing the seal only or whole valve cover?
I have seen a couple videos where you can just remove the seal, but those were older model engines than mine. For my 2009 F150, you have to remove the valve cover, the seal opening is too small.
Love your vids please don't stop making them very clear and precise
You make this look so easy. Love the music in the background also by the way.
Brian, can you please do a video on how you were able to get to the valve covers, there is a lot of stuff that needs to be removed before you get to the point where your video pick up
There is a 4 video series. 1 of 4, 2 of 4, 3 of 4 and 4 of 4.
You don't actually have to take it off in order to replace the VVT (VCT) solenoid. The grommet comes out and it can be replaced I recommend you go about it that way
@@daviddlugosielski3020 Yeah! I agree with you David. Brian took off the valve covers to remove the VCTs but they could be removed from the port holes externally. Wonder why he did it that way?
you do not need to take the valve cover off. the grommet around the sensor comes out. gives access to the T27 bolt.
Is this true?
Thank you bro your videos have help
Me a lot since I have a 2005 5.4 Ford thanks amor I have 275000 miles on my Ford so I should replace them before it gives me trouble
Still have it your expedition?
Wish I had seen this before I rebuilt my engine. Mustang 2008 gt 4.6. Great video God bless
Why did you rebuilt it sir? What was your problem?
My apologies on such a late response, it sounded like the lifters then I was told the valves. But just got annoyed and sent it out to get done. Then I finally got to reading and researching found the vct solenoid replacement kit might work so far a lot better then before. Good luck God bless
Have the P0341 code for bank 1 and sometimes rough idle and dying described here. At 152k miles my engine very clean inside so hope this solves it and not another computer problem.
Btw. 2010 Explorer 4.6, 8 bolts on right. 9 on left.
Do i have to fill the hole wirh oil a bit or to oil up the sensors wenn they look dry?
You don't have to remove the valve cover at all!. Around the solenoid there's a rubber Bushing that pops out there is one bolt that holds the solenoids. This saves a ton of work
That only works for the early models not 2007-2014 models.
@@FordTechMakuloco thanks my is 2010.. Fck.... need to remove the cover..... 👍
I just did this but your valve cover has the big VCT seal which if you removed and changed it, you’d know that you could have replaced the solenoid without taking the valve covers off. My VCT hole was the diameter of the solenoid so I had to remove the valve cover. You also didn’t change the seal.
Do you have a video on the 5.4 engine common problem s...and how to diagnose it.
Thank you! I will have a mechanic replace them. I have been watching videos. Another guy suggested to disconnect these vct valves until replaced. The truck will run with no problem. Except the check engine light. I have disconnected these selenoids and I am driving it. I was even able to tow a dump trailer...
I've heard this before, good to know it works. Would be curious what Brian has to say though
1:26, this is exactly what I'm dealing with. Originally was going to "try" changing solenoids as a solution, but it sounds like it's more than a "try" but an actual solution.
really thank you for making these. especially the one on changing the timing chain. I plan on doing mine in the furture and i can just follow your video step by step if need be.
It should be noted that in another of your videos you changed the Solenoids on a 5.4L 3V by popping the seal and using a Torx (T27 I believe) to unscrew the bolt and replace it. No valve cover removal needed.
This only applies up until mid year 2007 after that you must pull the cover. Plus any service valve covers sold also require valve cover removal to replace the vct solenoid.
Aw man I’m really hoping this is my problem, having the exact issue you described of stalling at stop signs, just wasn’t sure if I should change my Camshaft position sensor since I got a p0340 code on my 2004 5.4L F150. But I was also thinking my VCT solenoids might be the issue. I’m going to start with that 👍
Any luck? Just did both CPS's (bank 1 and 2) and all the coils... I don't want to do the plugs. Still, dealing with idle issues and stalling after it warms up.
@@StuPedassolme 2 😢 what was ur issue did u find out what it was ..mine is doing the same stalls after a good drive like it ain't gettin fuel
@joeroe2839 it was the cam phasers, due to ford using plastic timing chain guides, throwing off the timing and eating my rockers causing the tick against the cam. I was able to drive it for a while by just unplugging the cam sensors but eventually I knew that tick was just chewing up the lobes on the cam. Had to do phasers, timing chains, cams, rockers and guides, (and of course plugs while in there, because of their tendency to break).
Their may be a cheaper way, it's 4k to have it done... but it'll be good for another 100k miles at least. Have it assessed. Sorry about the bad news.
Purchased the wedge and spring compressor when I swapped out my Mustang cams. Cost about $300.00 CA. Something to be aware of if using the spring compressor, watch carefully that the spring retainers don't come loose and disengage the valve stem making it possible to drop your valve into the cylinder. Great video!! (as usual)
I have a 2005 mustang gt with codes for vvt solenoid actuators on both sides , are the part numbers the same?
I have the same problem after not driving my Mustang for a while! Any suggestions?
Please redo this video. Other people are using a different technique and it saves soo much time! I trust your channel but now I'm stuck. My 2008 has a metal pipe going to the brake booster and it's preventing the cover from coming off but now that it's half way, I need to replace the gasket. I'm stuck! So this video is out dated and doesn't apply to all models. Watch the other guys how they replace the VCT.
I have NEVER had to remove the V/C to get the solenoid valves out. Just be careful and trust the captive design for the cap screw and pull the solenoid valve simultaneously with fastener removal.
Mid year 2007 and newer the valve cover was redesigned and the hole is smaller so this cannot be done without valve cover removal....
I can verify this, wacky redesign
dang it...I have an 07 f150 that shakes n rattles when coming to a stop and on idle for a few seconds...thinking of changing these but was hoping I didn't have to take the covers out..😢
216k miles and my "04 5.4 runs like a charm other than sounding like a quiet diesel.
I bought an 04 5.4 about a month ago runs great except for this little problem with the VCT, but it sounds like a diesel. What's up with that, have you come across any reasons why ? Thanks !
Dillon Turner I got my 04 with the 3v at 204k miles, and it had the light knock. I now have 216k on it and it runs fine. Knock has not gotten worse. I just continue to change the oil. I know at some point the engine will fail but then I'll just put a 5.0 in it, or a Cummins 4 cylinder.
You just said what I suspected. My 05 F-150, 5.4, sounds like a diesel.
I have the new VCT solenoids I just haven't put them in yet. When I cold start it, I give it extra time to warm up, it just sounds like the bottom end is coming apart. The computer ( idiot light ) says oil pressure is good but to my ears, it sounds like not enough oil passing through the engine. Dang, I hope it's not the head. I have 166k on it and it runs great but??? Thanks for posting this helps a lot.
Jim Wills the guy I bought it from had it serviced according to the owner's manual at the dealer since he bought it. He had all the documentation to prove it. He said it had been like that since he remembers. From what I read online as long as it's the VCT, and not the cam or anything else, the only thing you're going to suffer is some terrible gas mileage
Joshua Jones
The truck runs great, except when the idle goes bonkers do to those solenoids. ( at a stop) Gas mileage however could be a bit better. In the city i'm getting 10.5, and Hwy 12.5, and I keep my foot out of it. Like I said above, a cold start sounds just like the loose tolerance of a diesel. After it's been driven and warmed up, it's no where near like the start up, yet everyone ask is it a diesel. I guess, I just need to get under the hood and change those VCTs out and go from there. Thanks Josh....Josh, does yours have that cold start bottom end loud chatter?
I have this issue described. Low oil pressure at idle around 20 psi. Idle around 500 rpm. Clanking noise and dies at stop light. Mechanic told me it’s likely oil pump.
Can you show how to do the PASSENGER side valve cover removal ? Seems tough and I may be wrong, but does the wiring harness go away toward the fender as opposed to the driver side over the top ?
Great videos! I’ve learned to do so much on my truck from these. Thanks so much. I’ve recognize the music in the background on some of your videos, right on 👍👍
Hi, I have an 06' lincoln navigator that recently just all of a sudden started with low oil pressure and subsequently started with the knocking in the engine. I took it to the Ford and they said upon first inspection that it was the VCT solenoid, the next day they came back with the engine being shot and replacement needed ($6800). I just can't believe that its the engine. I'm the only owner and in recent years have't driven it much because of my commute during the week.
The knocking is not constant when turned on, it will start fine and then after a couple of miles it starts with the noise, which sounds kinda like a diesel engine. The noise is mostly heard on the left/drivers side by the tire when hood down.
Prior to this problem, it was suffering from a misfire at around 60 mph(it would get shaky) but past that ran fine. I just want some feedback and any suggestions because I feel that as a woman, I may be taken advantage of.
Would this also cause my 2010 f150 4.6l to sputter when accelerating? All new spark plugs, ignition coils, and fuel pump and still sputters when trying to accelerate to pass or gain speed for the speed limit.
I think this might be my issue.. 08 f150. Triton 5.4.... Has a knock sound at idle and almost wants to die sometimes when coming to a stop, especially when turning around.. Low throttle it idles and runs rough and sometimes dies. Once driving and up on the rpms its runs fine and smooth with no issues at all.
I had the issue where my 2006 explorer 4.6 would idle a little rough w/o a/c on. Once turn a/c on and engine was hot enough when coming to a stop would definitely shutdown on me and or accelerate horrible. And most cases would turn fan off and a/c i would just get air coming out. Replaced the vct solenoids i gained horse power and respons but still have the same problem.
I’ve got a 5.4 3v in the shop that keeps setting p0012 and p0022. Runs perfect until you load the engine and then it loses a lot of power and idles very roughly. If you stab the gas it smoothed out again and idles fine. I was thinking it had a bad phaser or solenoid getting stuck. I opened the timing cover up and all the components are brand new dealer parts.
IWORKYOUWATCH check your coils
Osama Abdulla No I scoped the cam sensors and there not overlaying like they should.
Has anyone followed this video? Can you please tell me how long this should take the average Joe from start to finish? The reason I ask is Makuloco starts with the valve covers already pulled and i will be doing this outdoors. I would like to give myself enough time to finish before dark, Thank you.
Great vid; but I'm wondering, should the cam phaser be swapped out at the same time? Is there an easy way to tell if the phaser has been affected?
had classic vct symptoms and finally warm enough to try solenoid charge on 06 5.4 xlt. Started on driver side, broke connector on wire going to front cover , heat damage and caked full of blue.I made a new connector and put back together without new solenoid and its quiet, no knocking and smooth idle with more power! I still saved solenoids for future ,but look under power steering res bracket, might get lucky like me ,had stuff in cupboard,good old Wisconsin salt and heat.Your videos are the best !!!
When replacing these should you do both if not what issues could it cause. I replaced one and now my mph are 10 over what I’m actually going but my rpm are correct
@fordtechmukaloco man i have a 2010 f150 5.4l 3v and its got a real rough idle surge from 1k -1.5k rpm back and fourth back and fourth. It also has a problem with 4wd theres almost no vaccum at the solenoid just passed the check valve but no grinding noises and i can hear the transfer case do its thing, still no 4wd and it revs real high like its not in gear almost when in 4lo along with the diesel sounding and rough idle, the surge only happens in park .
Great video, also great diagnosis video for this problem. Thanks for doing these. I believe you have narrow down the problem for me. I am having the harsh shuttering at stop signs & at idle after driving but I did want to ask, would the VCT also cause engine shaking at higher speeds? & delay in acceleration like when I hold the accelerator at the same position for a few seconds then all of a sudden a burst of power? I have been tracking down this problem for a while. Have installed new coils, plugs, injectors, can & crank sensors, tps, throttle body & new pigtails where needed. This all fixed a lot of low power issues but the hesitation/shutter at higher speeds & harsh shutter at idle & stops still remained. Thanks in advance.
Did you ever figure out the problem brother?
@@gerardogonzalez9586 Hey! Yes I did fix this. I’m not exactly sure what fixed it in the end. I finally decided to just go ahead & do the timing chains...which the drivers side had jumped a tooth due to the plastic guides/tensioners shattering & giving too much slack. I replaced everything, timing chain, guides, tensioners, phasers, VCT...all with Ford OEM parts. While I had the engine out I replaced all pigtails on the coils & injectors too...which I had replaced coils & injectors previously like you probably with no change in the hesitation. Once put back together all hesitation was gone, if I have cruise control on & hit a big hill I lose 1-2 mph rather than 10 & the engine doesn’t skip any while idling. An expensive fix...around $2,800 doing it yourself (I do not recommend)...well, the $2,800 was with oil pump, motor mounts, valve covers...everything I could replace while I had the engine out...or $3,800+ at a shop. Ford will put a new engine in for around $6,000-6,800 last I checked. May be the better...easier...route if you have the money & plan to keep the truck for a long time. Hope this helps! & good luck!
Marvels mystery oil to keep these engines clean or to flush ?
I thought you don't have to remove the valve cover to change the vct solenoid. i seen others video changed without removing the valve cover!!!
Starting at 2007 you have to remove valve cover.
@@calvinw78 why do you think ford engineers complicated replacement of the selenoid?, do you think it is for some sort of performance enhancement on the part?
Your the man , now ima gonna fix my van !
I like the worship music in the back ground. The songs sound familiar and caught my attention. Awesome content. Godspeed brother✊🏼
This guy does better with one hand than I do with two!
Is it true the older 5.4 which is 2008 early model has a different vct solenoid . The newer 5.4 which they updated the sparkplug , the vct can’t be remove without removing the valve cover is that true
The solenoids is exactly the same part number, it's the valve cover that changed in mid year 2007.
I have a question: What is MOA & EPR Motor Oil Additive Lubrication and what does it do? And 2? Gasket, put in dry gasket and then seal it with valve cover and then reconnect the battery or not during the process. Thanks
Ford tech makuloco- I bought my 05 F150 5.4 3 valve and shortly after it started making a lot of noise from the front of the motor. I changed phasers, solenoids, cam chain, tensioners, guides, pretty much everything to do with the timing as well as the oil pump. I'm getting a check engine light with a code of p0020 but the truck is not running rough. It is severely lacking power but not running rough or knocking or anything like that at low RPMs or high RPMs. I was wondering if the VVT solenoids could be causing a lack of power and not cause rough idle or engine noise. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I know they have helped me alot since I have bought my F-150! Also thanks for any and all help you or anyone else can offer.
I did this job and cheaped on ebay fake ford solenoids it took me a whole day to do now itll take me a couple hours each side but lesson learned buy from the link or ford dealer
I have an 04' F-150 triton that runs pretty good most of the time. When I drive it on the street or freeways I have no problem but when I take long trips and hauling with my AC full blast that's when it starts to really shake bad. Do you think it could be the VCT solenoids even though it doesn't shake on normal driving conditions? It also sounds like a Diesel engine a buddy said it might be the timing chains that tend to lose tension after time. Thanks in advance.
I've got a 1997 ford f150 4.6 triton. around 200k on it. it has a skip like a misfire. code said misfire on #8 plug. fixed it, then code p402. fixed it also. still skipping bad, no codes coming up? did a complete tune up, motorcraft plugs, wires, & both coil packs. it still skips like 3 kids with a new jump rope. ever seen this before with your ford experience?
Would you recommend inspection of the vct solenoid if the valve cover is to be removed for a seperate repair on an engine with, say, 90,000 miles?
Holy crap I had no idea those were the vct solenoids, I'm still learning a lot about my 4.6 on my 2008 Mustang GT. You described perfectly what is happening, i go for a drive and everything is normal but once I come to a stop, things start to get very bad.... I'm going to check my passenger side solenoid. Dammit I just put the valve cover back on too...
5 years later and I'm finding my own comment lol. Solenoids just went bad for the first time since I changed them again
@@SangheiliSpecOp what oil do you drive?
I go for 5w30
@@nfsking4826 thats what I use as well. Also its funny you replied here, I still have my mustang and the solenoids are acting up again, I have new ones and have to replace them
@@SangheiliSpecOp im going to buy one and do a timing job
@@SangheiliSpecOpwould ur motor rattle and knock ? i chnaged timing chain cam phasers guides and tensioners but motor is still rattling and knocking. i heard replacing this will help my problem ?
Is there a difference between the VCT and a VVT "Variable Timing Solenoid"? I ask because I and replacing my Camshaft Phaser and it was suggested to replace the VVT Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid / Actuator also.
I couldn't find a video you made on a pcv valve replacement on the 5.4l 3 valve. I'm consuming a little bit oil and I thought well I think I'll change the pcv valve if it has one.
There isn’t one
Could this cause a P0018, P0022, P0171, P0300, P0306, P0307, P0308, P0316, or is it more likely that the cam jumped timing? Super rough idle, but it still starts and runs. 150k miles. 2007 mustang gt. I guess I'll know for sure when I pull the valve cover off, right?
I have a 2013 F150 FX2 with roughly 150K miles. My truck doesn't idle rough, but the oil pressure gauge will drop and it will stall when I am stopped. When moving everything is fine. The mechanic stated that I had 4 solenoids....2 on each side. I'm comfortable with changing these myself, but he mentioned 4 and all I can find is info on just having 2....1 per side. Could he be talking about something else or should I find another mechanic for the more complicated things? Great videos!! I enjoy watching even if they don't pertain to my vehicle and I'm not having issues. Never hurts to learn.
What was it?
Any chance you can do a video on the VCT solenoid on 5.0L F150.. I have a 2014 and it is a different looking solenoid. If not do you by chance know of one, I have not found that many vids out there on the 5.0l
Why don’t you remove the seal around the VCT Solenoid instead of removing the valve cover? Every other video I’ve seen shows them removing the seal around the VCT Solenoid.
They got smart and the newer year models have it where you have to take off valve cover to get to it now instead of changing it from outside easy like it used to be. Guess it wasn't dumb enough for the engineers. Whoever came up with the idea of changing it like this now should be kicked in the nuts
06 5.4 expidition. Did timing, phasers, etc. Not vct. Still pulling p0358 ect. Should have fished more for this vid, your others were very helpful. Saw vid where they just pulled vct cover, not valve. Recommened? Replacable gasket?
Thanks for this. Just did mine today
Uber helpful video!! Just a quick question. Once changed, how long should they be good for?? Another 120k?? 😁🤞🏻🤞🏻
I put duralast vtc solenoids in my 4.6 3 valve engine in my STX F150 3 months ago and now after watching this video and hearing you say only buy Ford vtc solenoids is my truck going to be ok or should I change them back to Ford before I have problems
Hey getting a p0010 now after replacing the vct sensor on bank one the sensor is not oem though can that cause issues with timing or should I change both out with oem or change the other one to the same aftermarket one from O'Reilly I even unplugged the vct sensors and it still was knocking and running rough
Have the exact symptoms as described here, on a 2010 5.4l with error codes p0012 and p0022. can the solenoids gone bad cause these codes?
Youre absolutely amazing and have been watching you for the last few weeks after purchasing a 2007 F150 super cab with the 5.4 3v. I have watched other videos and they pull the top gasket and pull the solenoid through the valve cover without removing it, are these videos legit?
Hello, I have that common shake at idle and think and hope its just the VCT. Codes thrown were P0016 crankshaft position, camshaft position correlation bank 1 sensor A. To do the quick test to see if the VCT is stuck open do you have to unplug both then drive around the block or just the suspected problem one?
Would love to see you cover VCT replacement on the current F150 5.0 engines....lots of chat room talk on this subject but no youtube content out there.
It would help if you could provide information on the differences between the 2004 3V and the 2005-2008. I know the cam covers and the VCT's seals are different.
There are tons of differences from the lash adjusters to the brake booster line, frp sensor, vacuum harness and the list goes on.
I just bought some 3L3Z-6564-A followers. Hopefully those will work on my early 2004 5.4 3v
I think an easy way for someone to see if they have an early 2004 engine is to look for the front center bolt on the valve cover.
Now that i see how thin the timing chain is..... (almost as thin as my VW/ Skoda 1.2 engine :-) )
Do Ford's 4.6 l V8 engines also have common problems with the timing chains?