F-150 Ecoboost 3.5 Exhaust Mainfold/Stud Replacement (Tips and Tricks)
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
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In this video I show you the steps and procedures necessary to replace and repair the exhaust manifold and exhaust manifold studs on a 3.5 L eco-boost engine. These procedures will work for ford F-150 and expedition vehicles. Years 2013 through 2017. These procedures and repairs are expensive and if you do not feel comfortable making them on your own I urge you to see a qualified mechanic. That being said I feel like anybody can make this repair in their own driveway with the correct tools and correct parts. This is an issue I have seen with high mileage eco-boost engines. Number one complaint and symptom of a bad exhaust manifold or broken stud is a loud squealing noise under heavy load. And sometimes misfire codes can appear. I hope this video to help you out if it has please like and subscribe. If you have any questions feel free to leave something in the comment section.
Exhaust Manifold Set - Ford F-150 3.5L Ecoboost 11-16
amzn.to/3n0Mbpv
torque specs needed for this repair:
exhaust manifold nuts----------------------
Install new studs 8.8 ft./lbs.
2nd step; Install new nuts 14 ft./lbs.
3rd step; 18.5 ft./lbs.
exhaust manfiold studs, 15 ft./lbs
turbo to manifold bolts 28 ft/lbs.
turbo water snap to connect fitting 8-13 ft/lbs.
turbo oil supply bolts 18ft/lbs.
----------------------PART NUMBERS USED IN THIS VIDEO-----------------------
down pipe gasket-BL3Z-9450-A (1 Req)
amzn.to/2GDOkOD
Gasket - F-150 (1 Req)
downpipe stud-W716667-S900 (1 req)
amzn.to/2XNc3TN
Manifold to Turbo gasket right side-CL3Z-9450-A (1 Req)
amzn.to/2PCEhxL
Manifold to Turbo gasket left side-CL3Z-9450-B ( 1 Req)
www.tascaparts...
W715673-S900
Turbo Bolt - (3 Req)
DL3Z-6K682-E
-----Turbocharger - Left Hand - 2013-2015
amzn.to/2GMj6oX
------DL3Z-6K682-F
Turbocharger - Right Hand - 2013-2015
amzn.to/2GyZLY3
top coolant line connector on turbo
amzn.to/2XHTksD
Front coolant connecto on engine:
amzn.to/2IGLRXf
Coolant connector facing motor on turbocharger:
amzn.to/2XCwhiW
Coolant connector on back of cylinder head.
amzn.to/2UWuxnz
EXHAUST MANIFOLD (PAIR)
amzn.to/41VSBFE
EXHAUST MANIFOLD (LEFT) BL3Z9431B
amzn.to/2GF678u
EXHAUST MANIFOLD (RIGHT) BL3Z9430B
amzn.to/2UW9lyl
EXHAUST STUD
amzn.to/2GwsfSe
I don't have an Eco-boost but the video was so well done I had to watch it lol
thank you for the kind words!
You dont want a EcoBoost, Ford rushed them out. Too many fucking problems, I wanna trade my 2011 EcoBoost engine for a coyote 5.0L. Same shit way more reliable plus not a pain in the ass to work on. I need to know how to get the passenger side outer more bolt out of the exhaust flange that bolts up to the turbo off. Nobody can seem to explain that one. No fucking room for a impact, bullshit
@@AaronHinesAuto , how much is the cost for this service? I have a 3.5L with the same issue 😖😖😖 MPG went from 24 to 14.8
Do you have a video on the drivers side?
except for the big deception, right?
Dealership wanted $6500 to do both sides. With a few tools, getting the parts through OEM seller, and most importantly, YOUR videos, I saved over $5k. You're brilliant! Thank you!!
What a scam $6500
My local shop just told me $3700 for both sides. Gotta do it... 😞
Absolutely one of the best instructional videos I’ve seen, and in this case used step by step. Thank you!
This video gave me the confidence to do this job myself. I really appreciate the time, effort, and detail you put into this video. Thank you Aaron.
Hey Chris, how did go doing it yourself ?
thinking to do it myself. thanks
@@RAFA13D I had to do the driver's side, so the process was a bit different. Nothing about it was hard or difficult (turbo is kinda a pain to get realigned), but it took myself and a good friend 8 hours to complete the job; and we're no slops. I'm the son of a mechanic, and he's built multiple turbo cars.
If you can turn a wrench, you can do this job. Hopefully you're quicker at it that I.
@@BurntTransGarage yep I run a wrench pretty well myself. Like you said, nothing horriblly difficult. But took a friend that knows how to wrench and myself all a 8 hours to do it. Just alot a steps to get to the actual fix and reinstallation and yep the turbo realignment=hold your toung right-and cuss a little
yeah right. What a deceptive BS video that will mislead REAL WORLD people. 1st of all, he NEVER EVEN MENTIONS THE CAB IS LIFTED! Things are MUCH harder to get to. Not to mention the one he is working on is essentially new and has ZERO rust.
Before drilling, use a center punch and create a pilot for your bit so it does not get off centered
its called a transfer punch....then you center punch
So I know this video is a few years old, but for those of us who still own these years of trucks with the Ecoboost, the problem still exists. One of the biggest issues with this repair method is that it really only fixes the problem temporarily. We all know that the studs will pop again. There is an inherent flaw with the way Ford designed this manifold. We know the distance between the stud holes on the rear port are too far apart to prevent warping. The other issue is that Ford only utilizes 8 stud holes in the manifold design. The cylinder head is actually drilled and tapped for 11 stud holes. Ford chose to shaft all the 3.5 owners by using an 8 hole manifold. There is a company in Canada called BD Diesel. They manufacture a repair kit for the Ecoboost that uses a new ported manifold that is cast to use all 11 holes that the 3.5 has drilled and tapped from the factory. I just purchased myself a kit to fix my 2014 for the second time. Do yourself a favor and use an 11 stud manifold and not the crapola 8 stud factory manifold. I am not affiliated with BD Diesel and I don't get anything for plugging their name, except for the satisfaction that Ford won't get my money for another set of manifolds. I used CP manifolds the last time and they failed too. Hopefully this time is the charm. FYI and good luck peeps.
Tried to order from BD Diesel last night kept having checkout issues so I called them this morning. No good news the guy stated they are over a month behind on back orders.
Get the updated design and then it's not gonna happen
Full Race now makes upgraded studs that this won't happen to anymore.
BD also makes an 11 stud design that is supposed to be better.
I'm currently upgrading with Full Race components.
The biggest problem from what I've read, isn't the number of holes used but the materials the manifold is casted from!!! Check out cr performance manifolds for reference!!!
@skagit58 How's it held up? Been looking to buy an ecoboost just to see what it's all about. Never had turbo vehicle.
This is one of the best made instructional videos I've seen in a while, and I've seen a lot since I try to do all the needed work on my cars and trucks. From example of the noise/problem, through all the torque specs and laid out part numbers, through step by step instructions with cautions, you made state of the art video. While dissasembling, I realized that the downpipe is actually creating a lot of preload on the turbo flange, pulling it down. Not sure if my truck is like that or it is sloppy Ford fitment job. When you couple that with the inherent design flaw on the manifold (lack of top stud on the firewall port), it is doomed to fail and break the most aft stud. In my case it broke flush with the manifold, so I was able to use 8mm stud pulling socket to take it out. I would choose that technique vs vise grips. It was super easy to extract. One and only thing I would add to this process is use of baterry operated impact driverd in a gradual manner to remove manifold nuts/studs after bathing them in BP blast penetrating oil. Increase torque slowly. That way it rattles the rust off the treads and un seezes it slowly without applying high initial manual torque to break it loose. First manifold nut was removed manually, and the amount of torque needed to break it loose made me very uncomfortable and scared of breaking it. All the other ones were removed with 20V Dewalt impact driver. Almost all of the remaining nuts came out together with the stud, due to lack of rust inside the engine head. Be really careful and gradual on the impact trigger.
Other than that, hands down to Aaron on this extreamly helpful video.
My ecoboost just popped the back stud exactly like this. It has 60,000 miles on it. Dealer wanted $3,100 dollars to repair both sides. Nope!
I picked up a set of CR Performance manifolds, new studs, nuts, jiffy-tite fittings and all the gaskets. I’m planning a weekend manifold party. You’re all invited! Bring your torque wrench. 👍😎
I’ll be there! Haha
Do you have a model # of the CR's you bought and where?
Thanks
I got a 14 with exhaust manifold leak on the driver's side. Buying the ONLY option on the market that I know of for an upgrade....CR Performance manifolds from Canada!
Swapping everything I can while I'm in there.
Thank you so much for this guide! I’ve done quite a few auto repairs due to not being able to afford paying mechanic rates, but this one was pretty extensive! Your guide and tips made it possible! I will say for anyone thinking to attempt this; it was difficult without a lift! Laying under the truck trying to get the right angles at things was very difficult and the rear clip and oil feed line bolts took way longer than they should have. All in all I got it done in 2 days and it seems to have fixed the issue without causing others. Don’t know if I could’ve got this job done without your guide!
Did you have another person to help or were you able to solo this?
@@macjaxjax2604 you could do it solo--its like he said just gonna take time. I had a buddy and a lift. Took us a tad over 8 hours. Even on a lift things are just awkward to get to.
I Heated up the studs with a torch to get them out. Makes a huge difference but you are still sweating when some of them don’t want to move. Pretty sure they stretch the threads instead of rust in.., crp seems to make some beefed up manifolds that should hopefully be more resistant to warping in the future. A welder to weld a nut on also comes in handy if ur having trouble backing it out.
Make sure to have extensions, and swivels for ur ratchet ready to go. It’s a tight space. Also I found ziplock bags fit nicely over the exhaust and oil supply line. The tape didn’t want to stick well. I’d also recommend access to a helper. There’s a few times it’s almost required. Also instead of prying the exhaust out of the way. I would try a ratchet strap. I didn’t do this but it occurred to me it would be much easier if I did it that way.
This was actually incredible man. Great job.
2015-2021 Transit vehicles equipped with 3.5L EcoBoost engines and built on or before 1-Dec-2020 are manufactured with cast iron exhaust manifolds that use 8 studs to attach to the cylinder head. A new service part is available for this application that is manufactured of stainless steel and uses 9 studs (right side -BL3Z-9430-D, left side BL3Z-9431-D). Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-01 has been updated with the steps necessary to install these new manifolds.
I have a 2018 1 53.5 twin Turbo I don't know whether I've broken any stud yet or not but my question is how common is it for you to lose Coolant into one of your turbos or both because I'm pretty well convinced that I am losing Coolant into my passenger side Turbo
Aaron does a fabulous job of explaining details and steps to follow. The video is excellent!
Very nicely done on this video. You’re the only one who has actually reviews all the necessary parts, part numbers and torque specs/patterns. Thank you! I’m subscribed. 👍
Fantastic video. Just changed out the left side on a 2013 after watching your video. Extremely helpful and don't think I would have tried without your tips. Thank you.
Fantastic Video!!! I just happen to have a broken exhaust manifold bolt. After seeing what is involved. The price my Mechanic quoted does not seem out of line.
You sir earned a new subscriber.
Son you did a Great job. Im 60 and my friend is trying to talk me into helping with his ecoboost manifold bolts. Bith sides.....
Absolutely one of the most comprehensive videos I've ever watched.
Great job,
Joe
Just developed this problem today. Gonna tackle it once work slows down. Gotta say very well put together video. Good job !👍 170km and its the first problem that’s occurred
Excellent video very helpful. I'm still deciding if I'm gonna do this or just pay a shop. I been working 60+ hrs a week trucking so when I finally get a day off I'm shot. But I hate spending money lol
You make this look relatively easy. I look at all that crap and think "I can never do this without breaking something worse..."
Got this manifold leak after I overheated pulling my trailer up a mountain pass before I realized what was happening. Now I'm getting that dreaded whistle noise on high RPMs and a loss of power for sure. If it saves me 5K+ then I guess I'll have to give it a shot.
I have the exact same problem, same side even, thanks a lot for making this video, it’s well done easy to follow. Cheers from Costa Rica 🇨🇷
Hey dude thanks a million for the video I just replaced my studs on my manifold and wouldn’t of been able to without this video... I appreciate it
Man my wife's eco 2.3 17 has been a terrific car. 105 on original pads. Excellent car.
"There it is, that is what success looks like"! Lol ( 13:40 )
If you have every removed a broken exhaust bolt the way he did you know that feeling oh too well!!!.
Especially if it is on an old vehicle in a tight hard to reach spot!!.. after that bad boy comes out you feel like you can accomplish anything!! lol
Good job bud!
Great video.. keep em' coming
LOL When I was watching and saw that stud was a broken off resessed I actually said, out loud "Oh Sh*t" and cringed
Love the video, by far the best I have seen when it comes to repairing anything on a vehicle.
About to attwmpt these repairs myself next weekend. Bought the full race manifolds and new Garrett GT Max Turbos. Cant wait to install now.
How did the install go?
@@matthewvanderlaan2465 coolant fittings will aggravate you but other than that not terrible just time comsuming.
Great job. My 2013 just started making the noise and the dealer wants around $1,700 to repair it. Not sure if I want to take this on myself but you got me thinking about it. The dealer said that the manifolds have been on backorder so we need to check on that. Frustrating that it’s been an ongoing issue and Ford doesn’t address it. Thanks again.
Life saver! Ive had this issue for about 3 months and could not get a consise answer on repair cost from any dealership. Thank you and excellent instruction
Had it happen on our 3.5ecoboost transit at 43,000miles. Cause it is part of the exhaust system it was covered under the standard 60,000mile warranty.
Great video! I have 200k miles between two 2015 3.5L ecoboosts, and just experienced my first issue with either truck as you described here. I just might attempt fixing myself thanks to your excellent video. Thanks
Excellent video, thank you! the problem sound you captured was exactly what I have on my 125 km f150.
Yes, that is what they asked me. It's 6k for both sides, and I'm waiting on someone capable of doing it for a reasonable price. I'm in New Jersey.
I just finished this today and did both sides on 2012 F150 with 164,000 miles, what a motherf******, I have been working on mechanical stuff all my life and have the experience of Tool & Die, which was good thing on this project, since both back studs on each side wouldn`t come come out with soaking in WD40, vise grips, easy out but nothing would work, so I had to cut it flush with the head and drill it out and re-tap with 3/8-16 tap, and the coolant fittings on the back of the heads and side of the block were replaced and new coolant lines, the fittings on the heads was pain too., 17 hours to do this fix.
The best way is to use a mig welder , build up a nub till you can weld a nut on it. That's how I remove them . Done tons of these manifolds on older models. You won't damage the head and no chance of welding stud to head because they're 2 different metals it won't weld to aluminum.
Excellent video. I just love how he explains things.
Thank you for the well done video and the information you provide like part numbers and torque specs. I tore mine apart today, and it goes back together tomorrow. Much easier after watching you do it!
Awesome! Glad to hear. Did u extract the Brocken stud?
@@AaronHinesAuto Yes, I actually had 2 broken studs on the passenger side manifold. They were easily extracted with a vise grip. Again, thanks for the video, my truck is back on the road.
Dude awesome job on the video. You made that job look so easy. Now I def know I can do it myself. Did you do a video of the driver side?
Nice video! Now I know what to expect when I take it to the shop. Not as complicated as I thought.
Going to be attempting this myself. Unfortunately I’ll need to do both sides. Thanks for this video!
Awesome video, and it was a great help to me in preparing the manifold gasket
Nice video. Had mine in a month ago for the passenger side and now the driver's side just broke. You have given me a good understanding of what's going on. Appears to be poor design to me. Looks like they need 2 more studs closer to that single one to help stress on that stud. I would say it's differential heating and cooling of the aluminum block and the iron manifold pulls and releases on that single stud resulting in failure.
Doing this tomorrow - and I plan to video. Thanks for this one sir!
Wait, so those water lines with the little c clip in them you can leave the c clip in the fitting and then pop the coolant into the fitting?? I figured you'd have to install the line then put the c clip in afterwards?
Best video bro ,I own this truck and I feel like I can do it myself lol.
This video is so well done. Excellent job! Gotta do this to my truck here shortly..
Great video i am having this same issue with my 2013 ecoboost. This video will come in handy for sure.
Glad to hear bud, good luck!
Exceptionally well done. I do not look forward to this job, and I will recruit a partner to help out. I'm amazed that you got that turbo back in with only one set of hands! My Eco-boost is squeeling with only 36,000 miles. Very disappointing.
very well described.... step by step....instructions....
Great Job Aarron!
Much love from Northern California
Thank you!!! Love north Cali. So many great places and people. Not to mention the climate
Great video Aaron. My 2011 with 190k just started making this same noise. Not tackling it myself but doesn't really look that bad.
Great video about to do the BD diesel manifolds on mine, they use 12 studs instead of 8 apparently to prevent it from warping. Not looking forward to doing both because it's just my driverside I believe but obviously I'm sure the passenger will go eventually.
How did it go for you?
Hey Aaron! I am planning on doing this exact repair job on my 16 f150. I was wondering if you could help out and just update the parts list that you listed below! You made it so simple but some of the links no longer work and I'm trying to make sure I get all the parts you got
Same reason they break on dodge and Chevy... The head is aluminum and manifolds are cast. The both expand and retract at different temps causing wear on the studs from friction.
You made that look easy, Great job
Very good explanation and information...
Great video, helped a lot with the project 👍🏻
Most helpful video I’ve found. Sub’d to say thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Very well done and easy to understand
Very helpfull video . Could you please post how you get your torque especifications?
any idea why ford didn't utilize all 11 stud ports instead of just 8?
Great video! And all done with one hand!
Great video. You’re an excellent tech.
Thanks for the video! I'm pretty sure my manifold is warped on my 13. I'm gonna get the upgraded manifold and hardware a d get some bigger turbos while I'm doing this!
That sounds awesome! Let me know how it is after
Also sounds very costly, as well.
Why is that stud breaking....n whats the remedy to solve that issue
Nice detailed video! thanks for sharing
I'm curious, why didn't you upgrade to the 11 stud pattern since you were there? Great video!!!
Did one today, 9.5 hour book Time I believe
Yes very long job took my buddy and I 8 hours on driver side. Just had to leave turbo lay in there since steering shaft is in way. Doing pass side in upcoming weeks. Hopefully easier due to room actually being available.
I'm almost half way through mine. What a pain. Just a heads up, I have a 2012 3.5. There is a fourth bolt on the bottom side of the turbo. I spent about an hour trying to get the turbo out before I realized mine had another bolt to remove
I know it’s been a couple years, but how come you didn’t replace the manifold with the upgraded ones from an aftermarket company?
Thanks very much for the videos! My first time replacing a turbo and it really helped to know about the retainer clips on the coolant tubes. I did have one question I can't find the answer to...what is the torques spec on the exhaust studs to the turbo? I took a little time to test and was able to evenly torque to 25 FTLBs. Is that ok or too much?
Thank you for making this video, Aaron. I used it for my truck repair. Now I have to do the driver's side. Do you know if the procedures are the same or if there is anything unique I need to be prepared for on the driver's side? Thanks!
There's no starter to take off 😂 otherwise the same
Awesome video. Needing to do this myself. I don't see the exhaust manifold gasket part number or the exhaust manifold nuts part number either......unless I just am missing something
One thing he forgot was the turbo oil line filter. They get gummed up and full of crap and should be replace while you got it all ripped apart
a stud removal socket works great for removing the back stud if there is some sticking out
Fantastic video! Very informative
@aaronhinesauto I’m Planning on doing this job this weekend or next. I have all the parts. I can’t find all the torque specs I need for this job. By chance do you have a pdf of specific torque specifications for all necessary components?
Great video, this makes the job seem a little less intimidating. Thank you
That is some serious technique
I feel confident watching this video. Great job
im glad! thank you!
Fine job, great video!
Really good video....thank you so much
Where does that blue O ring go??? I have one that I purchased but have no Idea where it is supposed to go. When I took everything apart I never came across a place where one of these existed. Also Do not forget to hit torq the manifold bolts to 18.5 twice. It takes two times around to get them to all end up at spec.
Did you figure out the O ring location?
What’s different in this process versus a 2011-12 Ecoboost?
Bro!! I don't see the part number for the oil tube O-ring (the blue rubber o-ring) and you can almost see the part number on the bag in the video but I cant make out all the digits. Please help!!! The video is awesome btw!
what did you take off to get access to it...the whole wheel well....fender?
I'm replacing the donut gasket after the turbo. What is the best way to access the bolts to remove the downpipe? Do I have to remove the studs to replace the donut gasket, or are you talking about another gastket ("back seal") between the turbo and the "adapter"? Where can I find a diagram showing the "seal" and the donut gasket?
Bro what city and state are u located?
2016 expedition. Can’t hear the leak, but after about half throttle and +, it begins to start bucking and if I stay in it a second longer or more throttle it will go into limp mode. Kept giving codes for misfires. Replaced plugs/coils. Would this gasket cause a boost issue and create those problems as well?
Yes if the coils keep going bad it can be this issue in this video
how did you change the coolant fittings on back of engine?
Awesome video man !
Great video man!!
Hey Aaron keep up the good work do you recommend a certain upgraded manifold with the extra bolt holes I have a 2016 3.5 thank you for your help
Is that little toy whistle sound while accelerating the sound you were referring to?
Is there a "donut gasket" after the turbo to the downpipe? Or, is there simply the male and female flanges that seal together?
This is such an awesome video. I've watched quite a few "professional quality" instructionals and NONE of them do this well. It'd be nice if they were all done like this.
Good video...but: No anti - seize ?
Hey Arron. I’m about to tackle changing my manifold and all the seals and gaskets on the driver side of my truck and I was trying to get all the parts gathered before hand but can’t find all the part numbers. Was wondering if you could help me out on getting all of them. Thanks
Aaron, I have my truck at a shop for both sides. I have had to let this go for a long time. I think the heat has affected to front left 4WD vacuum accurater, it is engaging on its own. The link supplied for the manifolds brings me to BD diesel product but the video uses OEM - I prefer the BD product, please advise
Only thing not shown in this video or any write up I've found is the location of the small blue o ring. Im assuming it goes between the oil feed/return and it's gasket but I'm not sure.
We're you able to figure this out? I need to reassemble and can't figure out the O ring location.
@@johnnixon nope. Have not tackled this job yet
@@spacecowboy1924 I gave up on trying to find a spot for it and just reassembled the way he said to. I'm half-way done with one side completed and the other side turbo off. It's a hot mess due to the rusting issues I've had. I'm installing aftermarket headers so I hopefully never have to go through this crap again.
The blue o-ring gasket, AA5Z00815C, is not shown being installed in the video, but it is used to seal the oil drain line from the bottom of the turbo (the larger, silver corrugated pipe) to where it connects at the engine block.
Hi thank you for making this an did a very good job!! So I have this problem an I have 205
K miles. So what is the harm if I dt fix this? In my area the ford grarge is all I know to fix an i hate to see what that will cost... thank you.