Ford 5.4L 3v Camshaft Phaser Replacement**UPDATED FASTER PROCEDURE**
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Save the headache use ONLY the latest Ford Phasers Here-
amzn.to/1XZuEtA
Timing chain "cheese" wedge tool kit-
amzn.to/1tubEGg
Engine Sealant I recommend-
amzn.to/28KF03y
5W-30 Full Synthetic Engine Oil I use-
amzn.to/1V1EDY7
Here is the original video using the full Ford procedure-
• Ford 4.6l 3v & 5.4L 3v...
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I put a paint mark on the chain where the r/L mark is, use the wedge tool, I take the second cam cap off, put a small piece of computer paper under the cap, tighten the cap down just snug nothing crazy don’t distort the cam cap from cranking it down tight it doesn’t take much and this will make the cam not move while u swap the phaser then remove the cap take paper out, torque cam cap then phaser bolt. Ford master tech told me about this 15 years ago I’ve been doing them like this ever since.
This is gold
Can I change the camshaft using this method?
Do I need to remove the timing chain cover in order to do this? I know this video is 8 years old but I have a 2011 Ford expedition with 200,000 mi that is starting to give me phaser trouble I've already replaced the VCT cylinders both cam position sensors and the PCM. So popping the valve covers it's not a big deal but I don't remember if I could get the cam phaser off without pulling the timing chain?
@@Dyllanman I would say no. You have to remove all the cam caps. Paper would do you no good in this case.
Is computer paper different than regular copier paper?
I just did my passenger side phaser .. thanks Brian .. the alignment mark saved me from disaster . I couldn’t get it aligned and my cam had shifted a few degrees. I was able to use large channel lock and got it on there. Thanks Brian …
Guys do not skip the marker process, it will save you so much time.
How did you guy remove the cam phaser bolt. My impact doesn’t fit between radiator and bolt. If i use the breaker bar, it keeps pulling the block inside alternating my 11 oclock
Jacob Wouldn't those cam locking tools keep ya in time or a pair of vice grips
@@wildwoodtopVice grips works too
My late 2008 5.4 is at 222,000 plus miles with no cam phaser issues. I change the oil, 5w-20, every 3-4k miles, always use the OEM filter, and keep clean air filters in it.
20 + year ford tech here,, great video i never have a cam to jump because i cut a piece of plastic from a oil or antifreeze jug, remove the 2nd cam cap or further back and sanwich the plastic between cam and cap bearing and snug tight (no air tools as the cam cap will break) holds that cam perfectly. as stated in video make darn sure the dowell pin in phaser is there in place. don't eat the cheese. my personal truck 5.4 3 valve heads i sent off for a line bore and insert bearings like rod and main bearings, more important melling high volume oil pump more agressive cams, phaser lockouts reprogram to delete varible cam timing, headers + dyno tuning. results a tire roasting sob that still doesn't make the power of the coyote 5.0 stock. all this vct crap is supposed to help power and fuel economy. the 2004 and up f series is a heavier vehicle with a frame stronger than any gm garbage at the time. the 300 hp 5.4 3 valve never felt like a 300 hp engine in those heavy trucks but more like a old slant 6 dodge pick-up. my 2006 f-150 5.4 came un-glued at 280,000 miles and i only ran amszoil in it from 1st oil change on thru 280,000. having a pile of 5.4 3 valve cores at home went for the rebuild from the .030 over bore, line bored heads, block, cam phaser lockouts, more agressive cams, exhaust, dyno tunes. my mpg was around 17 mpg hwy before now is 19 mpg and sometimes 22mpg. and passes emissions. i was over 400 miles away from home when my engine failed, it never rattled, never had a phaser replacement or timing chains. a timing chain broke and locked it down and amszoil kept that weak crappy ford designed boat anchor together for 9.5 years and 280,000 miles.
Nice!
hey Charles nice plastic trick, thx. i am a 20 plus year tech about to start at a ford dealer, any more tips and tricks you can shoot my way? thx
Charles- Where did you get the cam phaser lockouts as I hate the idea of all those moving parts eventually failing.
Just performed this today on my 2010 4.6 stx 4x4 with 130xxx miles. Thought maybe it was a rocker or a lifter but come to find out it was the phaser because after the oil warmed up and thinned out you could hear knocking noise. No more knocking. The camshaft did turn while I was putting in the new phaser but thank goodness I marked it. Grab some vise grips and turned it back. Now I just got to figure out why the truck almost has a shutter while driving. Local transmission shop said wasn't the transmission. Put on a new transmission mount and I still have a problem. Wondering if it needs a whole new timing chain now. Thinking about just driving to your shop @fordtechmakuloco. Thanks for all the help so far 👍
so nice to see how it's done in the shop and how much info you need to repair the vehicle brilliant video! I enjoyed it😃
I TOOK MY F150 to the dealer for a noise , they diagnosed phasers ,paid $1200.00 and the noise still the same ,now that I see your Chanel I think it was the rollers why in the world they didn’t tell me it could be those too? Dealers are bad , end up selling my truck to car max and bought a 01 tundra with low mileage and don’t regret it , by the way good job.
I own a 2008 Navigator with 60gs on the odometer. Had the plugs changed before the class action law suit expired and have been watching your videos for tips on things i can do to get a longer life out of it. I recently changed to 5W30 full synthetic over the 5W20. I can not get over the difference in how everything smoothed out and quieted down at idle and higher speeds. It was so noticeable that my wife even commented on it. I hope i did it soon enough to avoid any major repair bills. Thanks for your channel.
You always know what you did REALLY worked when your lady notices
I changed to 5w30 too
Thanks for your response.Ive done one set of VCT's at the Ford Dlr I work at yrs ago & didnt remember removing them.Im pretty sure I just had the lobes so the base of the lobe was touching the cam.
$2k to replace these can phasers, at only 100k miles.
$500 to replace a bad spark plug design.
Great design, Ford. There should be recalls on these engines
How is there not class action lawsuit?
Yep ford had to payout alot of money to people who had to deal with the broken sparkplug issue. Also they had to replace the cam phasers for free if you were under a certain mileage and years. Unfortunately for me by the time I got the notice on the phasers it was too late. Looks like I will be doing it myself. Only at 52,000 miles on my 07 f150
The 5.4 was always a problematic motor. The 4.6L was always far more reliable. Which is why I chose this motor. 128k and never had motor work done. Just changed the oil and did the maintence. But there is maintence people didn't even know they had to do. Such as VCT solenoids having to he changed at 60-70k. Or stuff of that nature. Not to be using base oil. Only using Ford's certified oil or higher. People don't realize that not doing the proper maintence will lead to a bad motor later on.
I am in the same situation with only 108,000 miles I have to have the expensive repair done on my F-150. I had the plugs changed out at 100,000 miles same cost because I researched the issue of plugs breaking so I paid Ford to do the work. Very poor design on Fords part. Ford needs to have this on the recall list because most engines should run at least 150k to 200k without this type of major repair.
hhhh9579 where can I find this kit?
I have a 2010 f150 4.6l 3v. Would the procedure be the same? I really appreciate all of your videos because they have helped me save some serious cash!
I wanted to thank you for this video. This helped me diagnose my truck and then was critical in the repair. I followed everything exactly, and the outcome was perfect! A few notes for anyone else attempting this: Make the marks on the cam phasers and the cam lobes, as indicated in the video. My cams rolled just a little bit when I took the phasers off, so the marks were crucial. On the cam phasers, the "R" imprint is very close to where the pin is located on the back side that has to line up with the notch in the came shaft, and if your "cheese" is in properly, there is no play in the chain. Moving the cam shaft slightly to align was necessary due to the roll of the cam in my instance. The hardest part of the entire job is the rear valve cover bolts. Either I need to be taller, or I need a low-rider! Due to the rubber grommets on the valve cover bolts, make sure they are all aligned and seated in the holes prior to tightening anything down. Visual inspection through the wheel well is imperative. GREAT VIDEO and PERFECT INSTRUCTION! THANK YOU!!
What kind of signs that it shows when you need to replace them
@@michaelpatton5012 It sounded and felt like the truck was going to fall apart. It only did when it was warmed up and at idle. You'll know it when it happens. It makes a heck of a noise.
Can I ask how ya got the fam turned back and to stay in place?
@@azmadmonk1 If you utilize the tools identified in the video, the cam should not turn once you have the chain removed. I did have a set of helping hands that held/watched the cam shaft to make sure there was no movement. It will move if you don't use the tools properly. If you are thorough and careful, shouldn't be an issue.
FordTechMakuloco I have a 06 3v navigator with 105k miles on her. She still purs like a kitten. I've been using 5-30 pennzoil synthetic since first oil change. Only reason the 5-20 is used is for better gas mileage.
I know its an older vid
But this works great
Thanks for putting the time into your videos
Save the headache use ONLY the latest Ford Phasers Here-
amzn.to/1XZuEtA
Timing chain "cheese" wedge tool kit-
amzn.to/1tubEGg
Engine Sealant I recommend-
amzn.to/28KF03y
5W-30 Full Synthetic Engine Oil I use-
amzn.to/1V1EDY7
Here is the original video using the full Ford procedure-
ua-cam.com/video/HZuArjvEfRc/v-deo.html
Great video.One question.Do you have a video of how to diagnose a phaser? Thanks again
thanks for the videos Ford should hire you to do technical training videos. I have a 09 f-150 with the phaser noise. I think i'm going to do complete timing set plus the oil pump you recommend and hopefully that will solve the clacking and missing problem.
Used this same process just yesterday on my 4.6 V8 Mustang. I didn't quite have the lobes at 11 and 8, after taking the phaser off the cam rotated a half inch or so. I figured no big deal, I'll hand rotate the engine to align the phaser to the cam and install it. While rotating the engine the chain sucked the wedge further towards the crank! Haha, I wrapped my tools up for the day and went inside.
Next day I was able to keep rotating the engine and aligned, torqued and finish installing the phaser then went on to fishing the wedge out.
My car runs smooth again and I have you to thank for guiding me through this seemingly daunting process! Thank you so much
thanks for sharing, why is camshaft needed to be changed, what are the symptoms or problems of a bad one?
have a great day
Great video, taking mine apart at the moment for a lifter replacement. One thing you don't see anywhere discussed online is how to distinguish between lifter and phaser noise. My tapping noise for example can be heard at all rpms and engine temps. When I hold the stethoscope to the valve cover, I don't hear any tapping coming from the phaser area. The noise seems to be coming from the rear or bottom of the engine.
So I'm taking a shoot in the dark and am replacing the followers and lifters on the driver side.
Any reliable way to tell the difference between lifter and phaser noise?
Just an update to everyone following: Mine turned out to be a bad lifter which caused the cam follower to fail. I removed the cam and replaced all lifters and followers. What led me to believe its the lifter/follower rather than the cam phaser: The official TSB on this issue. The TSB describes the different noises and states that if the noise is there always, at all temps and rpms, it is most likely a bad lifter.
Hello. First, what is your name? I have a 2006 Ford F150 5.4 engine. Going to replace cam phasers? Do you recommend using only Ford OEM parts?
Thanks.
Only Ford parts.
Dude, Awesome video. I have seen a few of your views and I'm impressed more and more. I was a Ford Certified, you however have what I like to call gear head, know what your doing when it comes to thinking about the math and timing, and pulsewidth , that kind of stuff. Being I worked for ford for many years, it was a quicker burnout for me but guys like you reassure me that I still know what I'm doing, research first, and plug and play. Great video man. One of the more complex one's Ive seen you do but I prefer it. Thanks man
It works!!! Got my cam phasers changed out... Thanks!
Hey bro, once again you saved me big $$.
U Da Man!
👍
Any way of seeing if the timing chain needs to be changed out? Seems like a good time to do it.
So you're saying that you do NOT have to remove the 3 roller followers on each cam once you have the crankshaft keyway at the noon position? That's the more risky part? If so, I really wish I would have watched this before using your 4 part series... I removed 5 of the six roller followers with a flathead (not the special tool) and can't get the last one (closest to firewall on passenger side). Is there any danger in using the method in this video and leaving that last roller follower on?
+ChaseBrumfield In order to time the engine right all followers should be removed so the cams can be set perfectly in position.
Hey Brian, I have crank at 12 and trying remove rocker followers. I got 5 removed from 1-4-5 cylinders. But cylinder 8 exhaust spring seems to be compressed? What can I do?
It amazes me that you even have to make it crystal clear so many times about the alignment dowel being in the alignment hole lol. I feel if there are people who can’t comprehend that simple task maybe they probably shouldn’t be attempting this task lol
Just my thoughts
Another great thing to do is buy A tuner and up the idle to 800rpm. Phaser never locks and no Phaser pin wear 👍. It also increases the oil pressure at idle for those high mileage engines with worn cam journals.
Are you referring to a lock out kit for the phasers? And then a custom tune so it doesn’t throw a code? Sorry I’m new to this issues
Why do you recommend the 5W30 vs the 5W20?
nice clear instructions, thumbs up.
Mine makes a tapping sound and just replace the lifters and checked all the followers. I’m hoping this fixes it tomorrow
OK thanks for the info. I had already bought all the part before I found this video 2 phasers 2 siloniod 2 value cover gasket should be set
I did the same thing. Lol
@@joearreola5293 looking to do the same thing . Was gonna do the whole chain but found this . How do it go afterwards? Still running good ?
Good video as usual, what do you think about the phaser lock out kits?
I have this job coming on my daily. 240,000. I'll get the timing kit, actuators, intake gaskets and whatever else I can. Does this process transfer? How does the mark on the chain relate? If you have or can recommend some other videos on this, I'd appreciate it.
You made this look easy. I have always avoided the 5.4 triton, but seeing this makes me think it might not be too bad. Now I just have to look up how to deal with the spark plug issue
Once the phaser is off, can you remove the camshaft to replace the rockers and lash adjusters?
Your videos have helped me out with multiple personal vehicles now, thanks a lot man. Keep up the good work!
This video is exactly what I needed to fix my 2012 Navigator. Your're a life saver! Keep up the great work bro!
Great series, I'm very impressed with the clarity and detail!
I was able to jam the cheese rod into the timing chain from the front side of the phaser and replace the phaser easily with no clearance issues in my 2008 F250 5.4 (with 378,000 miles on it). My cheese rod would not fit through the cavity in the procedure that you suggested. Just an FYI. My cam did move. I was able to move it back and the phaser slid rite on. I'm glad I market it! The engine runs like a top. Thanks!
Yea looking at his video. I'm pretty positive the positioning he is using to get the wedge tool in is physically impossible to do with the front cover on. He points the wedge at one point where it would be coming directly out the side of the front cover. I don't think the tool has the amount of bend to make that happen. In the Ford service manual the picture they show as reference shows it going in through the front. So that would be the proper way of doing this.
@@sethdrak3 Seth I'm working on a customers 2009 3v and I had to go in from the front of the phaser. I am surprised the amount of wear on the chain for only 117k miles on this vehicle. Still a great video.
Wouldn't it be grand to have this guy as your next door neighbour.
thanks for a very detailed vid best i have ever seen on how to mount the cheese between the chain....
On another one of your videos you said to remove the first few rockers but this video you did not.Should I be removing the rockers?
No that is the shortcut I also place the crank and cam lobes a certain way in this video.
How do you get the lobes to that certain position
@@williamdavis7535 turn crank
I wish I would’ve watched this before I bought a special tool, I could’ve just used cheese.
I just wanna know what kind of cheese is that😂😂
Cheddar
I think it looks like swiss
Great video man anytime I work on a Ford I go to your videos. How do you hold the phaser to torque it?
The compression stroke holds it.
Awesome and informative videos. I'm about to crack my 2008 Expedition open as it sounds like a diesel and all indications are that the phasers at the very least need to be replaced. I found I'm only about an hour from BSG as I'm in SE-Wisconsin. Starting to wonder if I should just bring this awesome guy some business instead of doing it myself.
EVAN,
STUPENDOUS IDEAL!
BUT I GET A STRONG,VERY STRONG SUSPICION THAT IF YOU DO CONTACT BSG,FOR BUSINESS, YOU WILL HAVE A MUCH LONGER WAIT THAT YOU MIGHT THINK!
THAT SAID, THAT IS AN OPINION, JUST MY OPINION. BUT GUYS LIKE THIS GUY,AS GOOD AS THIS GUY IS,HAVE ALL THE WORK THEY WANT AND THEN SOME!!
IM ALMOST ONE HUNDRED PERCENT CERTAIN THAT THIS MAN TURNS DOWN ENOUGH WORK TO KEEP ,ID SAY AT LEAST TWO MORE MECHANICS WORKING!! WORD OF MOUTH,THERE IS NO BETTER ADVERTISING. AND PEOPLE, MOST PEOPLE WILL BE THRILLED TO FORK OVER MUCH MORE MONEY FOR A)QUAILITY PARTS AND MORE IMPORTANTLY
B)HONEST,FAIR AND UPFRONT MECHANICS.
WORKIN ON CARS AND TRUCKS HAVE CHANGED SO MUCH IN THE LAST TEN TO FIFTEEN YEARS,AND TO FIND HONEST
AND KNOWLEDGEABLE MECHANICS LIKE THIS GUY,IS NOT AN EASY FIND.
ALL THAT ASIDE,BEST OF LUCK WITH YOUR VEHICLE!
I have to say this guy is good and explains stuff pretty damn good and knows his ford..thanks for the knowledge and tips.
In the ford garage I was at we used to have a hold down tool for the cams on the old 2valve triton motors. It made life so much easier
Just completed driver's side on 2006 F-150. Couple of comments
1. I could not get the wedge in the way Brian describes it. There is a picture in the Ford installation bulletin that shows it going in on the outside of the head in front of the cam phaser. This worked for me and it was not in the way.
2. I did not have the cam positioned quite far enough and it moved when I took off the phaser. If it's marked like Brian said, no need to panic. It is easy to protect the cam shaft and put some vise grips on the area between the first lobe and the phaser seating area. Just realign the marks and put the phaser on.
3. Lastly, I could not source a single valve cover gasket and had to buy the whole set. Though probably not needed, the rubber doughnuts in the set can be replaced, but they are not sealing gaskets. They are used to control the force applied by the valve cover bolts. You have to cut them off the bolt sleeve and then push the new ones on over the sleeve. DO NOT try to remove the metal sleeve from the bolts.
Bro your a life saver I was bugging on how to get the can back to it original spot. Looking it I figured vices or piper wrench on the would work. Thanks for your input
Thank you!!!! The vicegrip advice was desperately needed!
In this video, shouldn't the Phaser have and L on it. It's the left side of the engine.
Each phaser is universal (for left and right), they each have an L and an R on opposite sides of the face. So you just rotate it 180 depending on the bank, when doing the initial timing. But you’ve probably found that out in the 2 years since this comment lol
On my old ‘05 F150, with the 5.4 engine, I also used 5W-:30 and never had an issue. Do you recommend using 5W-30 for the new 5.0 engines? I have a ‘15 F150 now and haven’t made the switch yet. What’s your opinion?
What do you charge for this service?
Jesse Cooney $2.63 and a kit kat bar
Love your videos, just picked up an 04 5.4 3v with a little tick. I’ m confused about the R and L on the phasers. In this video the R is on your drivers side? In the longer video is the R is on the passengers side?
Per some comments below, a user says ford stopped marking them r and l because they are the same part now. Answers my question :)
There reversible left or right. Just 180 degrees off
Hi, I was think of trading my 2010 f150 fx4 with 75000 miles an ford wanted to give me 19000...now the mechanic cam out to check car and said phasers have to be changed and now they are offering my 14000. not sure what to do. anybody thoughts would be greatful
No way I think it is worth it to follow this video and fix it yourself and get your $5k back! Parts are listed in the video description at a substantial discount compared to the dealer.
Do you charge $5k to fix it? I'm about to pull the trigger on an 06' Mark with 200k miles listed for $9k.
@@icawn The entire timing job isn't THAT hard if you follow Brian's vids and take your time. Use Ford parts and the Melling 340HV oil pump though.
Wouldnt this be a good time to pull the cam and replace the rockers ??
Great job. Nice to see a true professional that understands the physics involved and the care taken during the process.
My truck has random miss fire P0300 but no check engine light it’s 06 f150 5.4 I feel it miss then not for awhile mostly lower rpm road speed is this the solution. No rattling noises
Good vid. would like to know how to turn cam if it does slip out of time. Thx
You can use a rag (double folded) just behind the phaser, where, in the video, Brian does the measurement (from back of phaser to cam cap) before and after the phaser install and "CAREFULLY" use a vise grips to turn the cam where you need it. (Make sure to use caution and common sense) the rag, thick or doubled, and the vise grips just tight enough not to slip and score the cam but not so tight that you cause crushing issues to the cam. I have used this method when switching out to bigger (performance) cams. I have a 5.4 3v and a 4.6 3v torn down right this second and Brian's video's have been worth more than Gold, silver and diamonds to me! PLEASE SUBSCRIBE, LIKE "AND " SEND HIS ACCOUNT SOME TYPE OF DONATION!!! He has helped thousands of us and he deserves something, Hell, ANY donation, ANY amount helps the cause. Thank you Brian for being so selfless and using your precious time to help us! It means the world to some of us!
@@ivanlaney2336 But how can you hurt the cam right there?
I know you say to use the ford motor craft parts unfortunately I cannot get them currently and would like your opinion on dorman parts
This is EXACTLY what I needed. I was changing out the vvt solenoids and noticed that the coil spring on that phaser was broken. I didn't want to have to take off the timing cover because I've never done anything like this before, so it's nice to know that it can be done without taking it off.
U can do it just go slow and don't get high or drunk while your doing it
Do I need to remove the timing chain cover in order to do this? I know this video is 8 years old but I have a 2011 Ford expedition with 200,000 mi that is starting to give me phaser trouble I've already replaced the VCT cylinders both cam position sensors and the PCM. So popping the valve covers it's not a big deal but I don't remember if I could get the cam phaser off without pulling the timing chain cover?
We got a bleeder hahaha
I ordered phasers for mine cause I have the hot idle knock but the only code I’m getting is p0012
Hi, thanks for your great quality videos, you are very well spoken. I attempted a drivers side cam phaser replacement on a 2005 F-150 that we recently did a timing chain and tensioner kit on. One of the tensioners had the infamous blown seal and the engine was noisy. We caught it before the guides broke luckily. It was still somewhat noisy after the timing job, so I replaced the VCT solenoids with Ford parts. Still no better, so I attempted the drivers side cam phaser. Marking the cam cap and intake lobe paid off big time. I went one step further and clamped a small pair of vice grips on the cast part of the cam shaft and locked it against the inner side of the cylinder head just to be sure. I made my own "cheese block" from a piece of MDF trim and a coat hanger. I drilled a hole down through the cheese block and put a 1/4 inch bolt through it with a lock washer and a nut on it to be sure I would be able to tug on it enough to get it back out. The coat hanger was twisted around the bolt, so it was very solid and not going to fall off. It worked fine. I would have ordered the OTC tool, but there were none available. When I removed the phaser, I found out you really mean "11 o'clock" I wasn't quite there and my cam moved clockwise about 5 degrees when the phaser came off the cam. Luckily with the vice grips still attached to the cam, I was able to use one hand to rotate the cam back to where it was, but this only allowed one hand to try to get the phaser back on square. This is where I learned how easy it is to get it on crooked. It was tight as my timing set is new, but I managed to get it back on okay. I used a torque angle gage to do the final 90 degrees....it worked better than the paint marker trick. They are cheap. This is an excellent video. Total project time for the drivers side was about 3.25 hours, except that while standing on the front crossmember to get the valve cover bolts out (why Ford must you have like 15 bolts, when an LS engine has 4) I managed to break an already somewhat rotted tranny cooler line...lol. When I started it up, it ran great, but spewed tranny fluid all over my floor. I managed to patch it with fuel line hose and clamps until Thursday when the lines are getting replaced. Thanks a bunch!
How did you get the phaser back on the driver side? I replaced all timing components also and it's so tight I'm finding it impossible to get the phaser back on. Any tips or tricks?
@@damiananey997 Honestly it was tight for sure. I could have used a third hand, but it was late an nobody was around to help. I used one hand on the vice grip (not clamped on a lobe of course to prevent scratching) and moved the cam back into position where it was (I had paint marked the cam in reference to one of the cam towers) it had moved about 2 degrees due to spring tension. I held the phaser in the other hand with the chain on it (chain link marked in reference to the phaser). I used my left hand to pull up and moved the cam slightly back and fourth with the vice grips until I felt the dowel pin on the phaser slip into the cam. I then carefully tightened the bolt. Be sure to take measurements from the front cam tower to the back of the phaser as per FTM videos to ensure you have the phaser fully seated on the cam and SQUARE to the cam. It must run true on there otherwise major engine damage will occur. My suggestion is to get a helper....this would likely be much easier.
How did you clean up the tranny fluid? Your garage must still smell like 🦕 dead dinosaur juice 🤮 😂
i have to start this job at 1 pm today,, i'll post back when i'm done, and i am pulling front cover to inspect the chain guides and oil plunger tensioners
it took me about 8 hrs i guess, the hard part is pulling the valve covers,,with the timing case cover off i found the pass side chain guide in 3 pieces and the driver side had a crack that ran the entire length of the guide,tensioners were in good shape,, truck fired right up,, ended with dropping the oil and going 5w30
king size86 good job
Loved this one keep up the good work
Very concise detail and instruction. thank you for taking your time to show the correct and best way to repair and learn.
Your instructions are good but I did mine and I’m into a bit of a problem when I put the phaser back on cam and started torque to yield the outer timing spikes started to rotate on me and well I just when with it and s put it all together and now the locoford truck won’t start I’m guessing it retarted timing but I don’t understand why mine moved where as when you did It it was fine and was still I don’t know what I did wrong please help anyone.
Part two: also I wonder about your marking of the phaser bolt then trying to do the 90 degree turn after the torque step. Why not just use a 9 dollar degree wheel, especially as it is difficult to be accurate and the angle of view magnifies that chance of sloppy degreeing. Not to mention your cam turned with you some so you couldn't have actually achieved even close to 90. That's mission critical- I know because I didn't do right my first time, so I had to redo it again a week later. Extremely expensive error too I will add. Finally: I COMPLETELY AND EMPHATICALLY disagree with your comment about using 30 weight oil. I promise you that using 30 weight caused me thousands of $ in damage. It's too thick during initial motor starting and I swear it will starve the Left Bank camshaft.
I have a 2010 F150 with the wonderful ticking. I have so many issues with this truck in the year that I've owned it. Water leaks, exhaust manifold replacement (the other one prob need to be replaced as well), running boards that are stuck (1 up 1 down), ball joint replacement....Not too excited about spending 2 grand to replace the cam phasers.
What will happen if I don't replace?
according to your video, changing phasers might not be too hard. But is it necessary to adjust cam lobes? If so how do I determine that, also do you offer a video that explains how to to adjust the lobes? Obviously I am a novice
Great video, but you didn't state how you first cranked the engine to get the cam lobe to the 11 o'clock position.
If you need to be instructed how to rotate the crank then you really shouldn't be attempting this job anyway.
Just attach a breaker bar to the crank pulley bolt.
So did you take out the three roller followers on each side...or did you just leave them in? That is my only question. Video was great. You just said normally you would, but that didn't mean you actually left them in. I have to do this on my truck...so that is why I am wondering. Thank you in advance
Do you need to replace the valve cover gaskets or can you reuse them ?
I'm about to do this job on my 5.4 3v. Does anyone know what the best procedure would be in the event that the cam shaft does move in the process?
Isn't there a cam locking tool to keep the cams from rolling under the springs pressure?
wanted to thank you for your 4 part videos on cam phazers .i'm from marquette mi my 3 valve 2005 5.4 was very noisy was down in Memphis Tenn no one wanted to touch this job. looked at all your videos and drove my truck back to the UP .with the help of your videos I was able to do the job. my timing had jumped one link . used your advice all ford parts new melling 360 high volume oll pump (that one bolt was very scrary to put in lots of rags in oil pan.)but i got it .took foever!!!! to get oil pressure.it seamed!!! connected crank sensor and started and runs great with 300 miles on it we are going back to Memphis THANK YOU AGAIN FOR YOUR VIDEOS....
do you have any tips or videos about what to remove to get the valve covers off? I'm struggling with my 04 fx4 on the passenger side. thanks
You almost have to remove the a/c accumulator form that side.
yea I did a little more reading on it and that seems to be what everyone is doing. thanks
what would you recommend for new injectors? 04 fx4 5.4
I recently bought a 2015 Explorer Limited with a 3.5L Ti-Vct V6 Engine. After driving the car for a bit and its warmed up there is a ticking noise coming from the passenger side of the hood. There is no ticking noise when I start the car, only after its been driven. I took it to a Ford dealer and they said the ticking was normal but it doesn't sound normal. Do you have any advise or suggestions on what it could be? Do these 2015 Explorer's have this Cam Phaser that you mention in the video? At this point i'd be wiling to pay to just get it fixed, that's how bad it sounds and it's very loud when going through drive thru or when I pull into my garage. I hate that noise.
so I screwed doing a lockout kit. i installed tune ist then did lockouts. i didnt set the crankshaft to the said positions to line up cam lobes. i did mark the chain and phaser but when i pulled the phaser off the cam moved like 1/8 turn. so i turned the crank slightly to line up the pin on phaser with with hole on cam. now i think i may have jacked up timing because it runs rough as heck with +30 fuel trim stft on drivers bank 2. My question is if I pull the valve covers and even crank pulley if i have to get to keyway, can i realign the timing without having to pull the whole thing and mess with rocker arms?
So you mean to tell me I still gotta do all that wiring madness with the update? 😂
Brian - Can I use 5-30 Full Syn oil in my 2009 F150 4.6L 3v ? The temperature rarely changes over here.
+Hawaiian F150 I would yes
Cool. Thanks!
Hello how are you i have a 2003 ford f150 svt lightning truck 5.8 liter supercharge and i love my truck. i have a cooling leaking on the pasenger side where the headers are located and also alot of taping noise on that same side what can you recommend where i can buy a new engine i live in the atlanta GA area thank you.
Can you tell me if the 2003 f150 5.4L has the phaser problems or is 2004 on up?
+fordtechmakuloco my 2005 ford expedition just started doing that ticking noise on idle speed will a bad cam phaser hurt the engine in the long run? I meant if i don't fix it will it brake the engine or is just basically repair it to get rid of that noise? And also i noticed the las time the oil was changed 10-30 was used so once it stars doing the ticking noise if i change the oil to 5-30 will it help with the noise? Or damage is done? . Well hopefully i can get an answer but hey thanks for the videos they help a lot and whats good about it they are free :) so far jejej take care and i see you from Arizona
Great videos. Any recommendations on the best Cam Phaser kit to buy.
I know you are saying a thicker oil, but doesn't that create a issues if you haven't switched over to a high performance oil pump yet?
You can use 5w-30 anytime stock or otherwise.
@@FordTechMakuloco thanks, good to know
Thank you for not underemphasizing how critical placement of the timing chain wedge. Man if your chain slips off that crank sprocket you just got yourself another days worth of labor. Be super careful.
Dude you are aewsome!
Would you put the cam in the same position on a V10 6.8L?
can you substitute a cheese wedge???
Is that R for right? Because I see the steering shaft?
This is that same for 5.4 2v I want to install a comp cam but I don’t know how?
I am new to owning a ford, especially the 5.4L engines, I have a knock at around 1000 rpms but goes away below and above 1000. I plan on redoing timing chain components with a Cloyes timing chain kit, getting a Melling 360HV oil pump and getting a lockout kit to prevent having the issue further. do you think that will work?
Did u ever go thru with it? I’m thinking about doing the same to mine
@@Yung_DDG I didn't lock it out but I did everything else I head so mixed reviews on locking them out that scared me away from the idea. I have 23k miles on the new timing rebuild and it's driving fine.
I just finished installing phazers in 2009 F150 5.4. There is not any space to inject the cheese stick down in between the timing chain when you don't remove the timing chain cover. I therefore recommend that you don't do this alone. You are going to find it very difficult to manage removing the chain from the phazer as the chain is under tension which is released when you remove the phazer from the cam. I also recommend a pair of vice grips around the cam back of the phazer with the handle laying against the head. Even then with two people you will find it difficult and nerve racking trying to put phazer under the chain and then placing it on the cam while pulling against the tension.
Awesome Video Brian! Excellent Step by Step Procedures. I think I heard you mentioning the cam phaser repair will affect almost every all of the modular modular motors at one time or another. I have a 2009 F150 4.6L 3v with about 56K miles
on it now. When should I consider having the phasers replaced? I prefer to stay ahead of the repairs when it comes vehicles. Can I use this procedure to do the repair?
I'm not sure if you can stay ahead of this repair or not.... When it happens, it happens. I believe the only thing you can do is ensure you are changing you oil like you should and using quality stuff. I believe most are still agreeing the motorcraft oil filter is still the only one that should be installed on these motors, 5.4 and 4.6.
Some have run 5W30 with good results and some that have ran this weight still ended up with cam phasers failing.
I think Jasper engines has a good video explaining how and why these engines are failing.
My truck is making the cam phaser tick/knock noise when engine is both cold and hot. Question is if i dont mind the noise do I need to replace the phasers?
Yes, otherwise your truck will eventually lose power when under load.
The Ford 5.4 3v is one of the worst motors they ever designed. I say that and I'm a loyal to Ford and have driven them all my life. This 5.4 was a garbage design from the very start! I've seen these engines fail as early as 100k to the point of needing replacement.
I agree to a point. BUT......if they are maintained properly, they're not as bad as they seem. (I dare say Brian would agree) that Its bad owners more than bad engines a lot of times. CHANGE YOU'RE OIL AND SPARK PLUGS REGULARLY to avoid 75% of the gripes people have about the 4.6 and 5.4 3v engines.
Hey man, your video has helped me a lot. I have a 2008 mustang GT, it’s going to need a whole new timing chain lot. What brand do you recommend. I been looking for oem but I can only find the cam phasers, can I get by running oem phasers and have after market chain and tensioners?
I guess I was lucky. When I did the driver's side phaser on my 05, I just basically marked the first lobe to the first cam cap and removed the phaser. The cam shifted from the 12 o clock position to about the 3 o clock position as I removed it. I was able to turn the cam back to 12 o clock with a pair of locking vise grips that I locked on the cam between the phaser and the first cam cap. I pressed the phaser on and it all locked in place, didn't have an issue after that.
That what I was thinking for emergency problem if I do my.