great video and solid instruction and directions , very easy to learn from you and awesome knowledge sharing , this keeps the sport alive and keeps high quality home builds breaking new ground and impressive ideas. thanks
I just want you to know these videos are SOOO helpful. I am building a car and i have no idea about wiring and i am trying to learn the best i can and your videos and this series is going to be so helpful seriously thank you!
Haha you make it sounds so easy lmfao I was lost in the first 30 sec but thanks to your great explanation I’m learning thank you for sharing your knowledge and motivating people like me 🎉👍🏼
Phenomenal work my friend. Don't know it you have ever checked out. Military grade battery cable ends. I find them a little slicker to deal with. Keep up the good work
Can you explain how the cut off switch is wired exactly and how it works? What wires run to the cut off switch and what actually kills the power? If that makes sense. Thanks Joe!
Finally somebody does a video on how to wire a car. Joe what is your thought on including a remote mount solenoid? Yeah or nay, I've seen some guys use them to help with hot starts with starter and to have a power point to hook up timing lights etc...Great video buy the way, I liked how you included the part links,that will definitely help. Keep up the great work and thanks for doing this. I can't wait till the next video.
I’ve seen those remote mounted solenoids. I hear they work good if you buy the quality kit. I’ve never used one personally so I can’t really give my opinion. Glad ya like the vids! 💪🏻
Wiring still gives me migraines but you did a great job explaining what you do to wire a car! 👌 when you say run the grounds directly to the battery, can you show us what it looks like at that point. Thanks
@@StreetCarJoe oh ok, I’ve always used the waytec 2 post kill and just ran the bulkhead power with alternator/starter to the battery side of the kill and seems to work good!
I always thought that some of those wires you have going straight to the battery.... are supposed to go to the switched side of the on/off switch in the rear in case of a roll over/fire..... no? I know they work better straight to the batt... but if there is an accident the safety crew needs to cut all the power. at least the way i always understood it. thanks for the vid.... always fun to watch. and motivation to get my junk rolling.
The power leads for the ecu go to the battery. The relay board and switch power (which trigger on the ecu) are on the switched side of the cutoff switch. So if they kill the power, it kills power to the relay board which will kill switched power to the ecu and all the relays...
@@StreetCarJoe correct. but there are still live wires when the switch is off. I only ask because i am going to wire up my car soon and EFI cars are a little different that the older prostock stuff we used to run. Good info. Thanks again.
You can see in the video I have 2 hooked up to the ground side. Beyond that, you would need a different terminal like this.www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-Battery-Terminals-Shims/dp/B07BSVQLCC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=battery+terminal&qid=1616163026&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyWkZPWEc0UVA0U1hSJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDM0MTEwMjY2Rlg1MUM0REtZTyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTE4OTcyRTJRQTNYUTlYN1RHJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Most of the p clamps holding wiring and stuff on the bottom side of the car are using small self-tappers. If it’s not something I plan on taking on and off a lot I think those are good to go.
Have you ever had an issue running the 4ga power to the distribution block for the starter + relay board? I was told to use at least 2ga even with good welding cable.
This car and my car don’t have enough electrical components to draw enough amps. The have mechanical fuel pumps. On a car that has a big electrical fuel pump and a 200+ amp alternator; I would be using 2ga welding cable. Never bigger
@@StreetCarJoe Hmm, i wonder what I will need. Truck alternator, oem starter, leash street strip, dual electric fuel pumps. Headlights, taillights, power windows etc. I may just do 2ga all around.
Yeah I feel the smartwire has it’s place. This car is pretty straight forward race car. Just can’t justify a fancy smartwire to hit the starter and turn on a single water pump. 😉
Did I miss it but what gauge wire did you use for alternator and other wiring from battery to distribution block and cut off switch? Thanks and super clean work man!
What relay board/wiring kit would you recommend? How’s the K&R kit? Seem to be good quality? Is their one you would maybe use over that one? I’m open to options just trying to figure out what route to go.
I feel like the K&R is definitely geared towards a bracket racing car. Lots of inputs for delay boxes and that stuff. I run the leash street/strip board on my car. They both seem to do the job well.
@@StreetCarJoe awesome man! Thank you for the quick response and input, keep up the good work with the channel, appreciate the information and the craftsmanship/love for the sport.
Patience... That will be video 4 or 5. But no I won't use the terminal strips. I will be using the step down connectors to hook up all the power and grounds for the inputs/outputs.
Alex Tech Sleeving. Amazon www.amazon.com/Alex-Tech-10ft-Protector-Sleeving/dp/B07FW4M7Z8/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=alex%2Btech%2Bsleeving&qid=1616099593&sr=8-2&th=1
The large gauge starter feed (Red) and block ground (starter return Black), both look like size 1AWG, are needed for the starter currents while cranking. If you get the thick fire wall rubber grommets and protect with heat shrink and/or split rubber heater or fuel line you can go directly through the firewall without the added resistance of the pass through and the lugs. You can buy very thick red and black dual wall heat shrink which will prevent any chaffing through the fire wall if also supported with fully cushioned P-Clamps to keep the cable from moving to prevent chaffing. You need a little flexibility (slack) in these cables close to the engine, because the engine will move on its mounts, especially during launch. If you put a 3/8 inch stud type red and black power point close to the battery in the trunk (keep to a 12 inches or less) you can use this as your star power and ground using the same 1 AWG cable (you can move up to 1/0, but this is not needed) without any negative effects on EFI or CDI or COP ignition operation. This way you can use a crimp battery terminal lug and not the gang screw wire clamps, which I think are higher resistance than the 12 inch common feed when hydraulic crimp lugs are used with a common power point. It looks like the car does not have an alternator so this wiring in the context of the build did not have to be addressed.
Will do. So far everything in this video is 4ga. He only has a 100amp alternator and its a mechanical fuel pump so the draw on the electrical system will be minimal.
Yeah you can do too big. There is a big formula for distance and amps drawn to determine power wire size. I’d say most cars with a mechanical fuel system are good for 4ga welding cable. If you have electric pumps and a bigger alternator like a 200amp, I’d go 2ga welding cable. Quality wire helps a ton as well so you don’t have to use huge wire.
What gauge wire are you running? You might need it be a bit thicker to compensate for all of that length! At least on my car, since it runs to the back as well, I use 2 AWG wire
Curious if there’s any other main battery terminals you’d recommend, I see you’re using the standard parts store ones but we always run into issues with the tension plates fatiguing and causing loose connections. Excellent videos so far man, glad you finally made a channel.
Good point. I've seen people use a variety of different ones. The ones I use are GM ones. Wether or not the quality is better than the parts store ones, who knows. Dont over tighten and I haven't had any issues...
@@lse90garage I get them from my favorite place 😉 ACDelco 3BA35 Professional Battery Cable Terminal www.amazon.com/dp/B0054T95ZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7JSV104P86V75TBBWHV8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Is there a vid where I can see how you wired the on/off switch? and do you not run a switch controlled main on/off solenoid for the power of the car besides the push on/off? Like switched power for the main power and relay power? Or do you just have constant power controlled by the push on/off switch? I just am worried about an accident and no way to cut the main power cable and not having a breaker and relying on someone cutting my main power In The rear of the car. If that makes sense.
Like Joe said, definitely wire the ECU & smart coils directly to the battery. I chased an issue with a car that has a Haltech & IGN1A coils, it was breaking up badly when it got into boost, almost like it was hitting a rev limiter at 4500rpm. Ended up being the ECU & coils were wired positive & negative to a distribution post inside the car & not to the battery like Joe mentions. Wired them directly to the battery & problem solved! Keep up the good work Joe, looking forward to more wiring content 👍🏼
What's up Joe - I ran 4 gauge power and ground cables per your instruction from the battery to bulkheads on the passenger side of my car. While testing the starter, it drags for a sec and this picks up spinning over. My car is a 64 Plymouth Fury (long car). Do you thing I need to try 2 gauge to assist the starter with power?
@@Onalky87 Yeah I had 4ga on my mustang with mechanical pump, electric water pump, electric fans, trans fans, lights, smart coils, 16x injectors. 100 amp alternator.
Looks like you do a great job with all of the wiring, except for the battery terminal connectors. You have an expensive battery, batter mount...etc and you go with the cheapest battery terminal connectors ever. Look how the wires and clamped on those things. It’s only a few $$ to get some much nicer and more reliable ones!!
Hi guys I need some help I've been building a car and I can't seem to my coilpack wiring correct can anyone advise me on how to wire up a coil properly
Hey joe I’m not nocking ur work don’t u hate those battery connections that u just strip some wire off a jam it under there an Tighten it down I’d rather use the eyeball connectors the crampons end at the battery’s because I’ve seen those ends ur using break in 2 pieces I uses the battery cable ends with the stud other than that all of ur other ideas were great 👍
I buy the AC Delco version of them, not the cheap parts store. I really like them to be honest. Just don’t overtighten and they work better than most I feel like...
Thanks for the video! I’ll be using this as a guide once I start wiring my car up. Also can you show some pics of the mini tub area? I can DM you on Instagram if that’s okay
great video and solid instruction and directions , very easy to learn from you and awesome knowledge sharing , this keeps the sport alive and keeps high quality home builds breaking new ground and impressive ideas. thanks
I don't know why, but the wiring is always my favorite part! Looking forward to the next episode!
Thanks! My favorite part too!!!
You're a masochist 🤣
It’s something I enjoy doing!
Excellent video!!!
Thank you
Awesome work as always! Can't wait to see it in person.
Much appreciated Joe! Looking forward to part 3.
Thanks. Working on it now!!!
When you get this mans car done he is going one happy man amazing work bud i hope you get to take it down the track one time
All I need is to take down the road and get some ice cream 😎
I just want you to know these videos are SOOO helpful. I am building a car and i have no idea about wiring and i am trying to learn the best i can and your videos and this series is going to be so helpful seriously thank you!
This is great to hear! Thanks
Thanks for the video! You and a few others have given me confidence to wire my car.
Looking so clean.Dave are you watching,Joe’s running low on ice cream.🍦👍
Ha! Big fax... We're going tonight to get some fosho!
Just came across yr channel, excellent craftsmanship my friend. Clean shop n clean work, now that's what I like!!!
Thanks!!!
Haha you make it sounds so easy lmfao I was lost in the first 30 sec but thanks to your great explanation I’m learning thank you for sharing your knowledge and motivating people like me 🎉👍🏼
💪🏻
Great job Joe! Love your attention to detail!
Thanks!
Great info bro, I always do the big 3 wire upgrades. I'm changing it to include 0/0 engine to battery ground. Thx for the gr8 idea
Very nice work. Dave taught you well!
🤣🤣
So clean and simple! Love it dude!
Thanks! Really appreciate it!
Good info. Even if you're not running smart coils, ground both cylinder heads ...
Always... Fosho!
Phenomenal work my friend. Don't know it you have ever checked out. Military grade battery cable ends. I find them a little slicker to deal with. Keep up the good work
I haven't. I just looked for some. They look pretty good. I may try a pair on my next build. Thanks!
Man, thanks for the wiring step by step. This is a HUGE help for my new build..... Subscribed 👍
💪🏻
Just subscribed Joe. Cus you're vids are some of the best
Thanks!!! 💪🏻
Very clean work. Keep up with video. Excellent work.
Thanks!!!
Can you explain how the cut off switch is wired exactly and how it works? What wires run to the cut off switch and what actually kills the power? If that makes sense. Thanks Joe!
I would like to know that same thing. I will be wiring up my fox body as soon as these videos are done. I will follow your lead lol.
Finally somebody does a video on how to wire a car. Joe what is your thought on including a remote mount solenoid? Yeah or nay, I've seen some guys use them to help with hot starts with starter and to have a power point to hook up timing lights etc...Great video buy the way, I liked how you included the part links,that will definitely help. Keep up the great work and thanks for doing this. I can't wait till the next video.
I’ve seen those remote mounted solenoids. I hear they work good if you buy the quality kit. I’ve never used one personally so I can’t really give my opinion. Glad ya like the vids! 💪🏻
Love wiring. Thanks for the info!!!
Glad ya liked it 💪🏻
Great great keep them coming 💪🏽 this is going to help me alot
Good to hear! Im working on the next one right now!
@@StreetCarJoe can you provide a link to the battery wire
@@michaelpineda2709 EWCS 4 Gauge Premium Extra Flexible Welding Cable 600 Volt 25 Feet Each Black+Red www.amazon.com/dp/B016HGOH3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_R5P7BRXQS82ZVR7JZ560
Great video SCJ🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
Thanks!!!
Clean work joe. Like it
Do you fuse your positive runs coming off the battery?
He’s running them off a switch, otherwise Im sure he would
I’ve got wires everywhere man. Wish my holley Hp had a clean setup on my fox
it's as clean as you make it
Quality work there SCJ👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks 🙌🏻
Great videos!!!
Thanks!
Wiring still gives me migraines but you did a great job explaining what you do to wire a car! 👌 when you say run the grounds directly to the battery, can you show us what it looks like at that point. Thanks
Yeah I’ll go over it in one of the upcoming vids. But pretty much the ECU has a wire that goes directly to the negative post of the battery.
Streetcars can't have enough grounds, and I can't have enough Streetcarjoe videos!
Ha! Im working on part 3 right now... Thinking maybe I need to take the streetcar out for some ice cream tomorrow and make a vid 😉
Always thought the alternator could go to the bulkhead power distribution? Better to go direct to battery?
This case the alternator lead has to go back to the cutoff switch so when it’s switched off the alternator can’t keep the car running
@@StreetCarJoe oh ok, I’ve always used the waytec 2 post kill and just ran the bulkhead power with alternator/starter to the battery side of the kill and seems to work good!
Great video and info as usual 👍🏾...keep coming
Thanks 🙌🏻
It looks like you have both heat shrink and Tessa tape, does the heat shrink not grip the wire wrap well?
nice that car is going to be hot. I always ground my engine directly to battery and frame ground directly to battery, never had any issues
From the engine ground where exactly do you connect the ground to the chassis? 5:17
I always thought that some of those wires you have going straight to the battery.... are supposed to go to the switched side of the on/off switch in the rear in case of a roll over/fire..... no? I know they work better straight to the batt... but if there is an accident the safety crew needs to cut all the power. at least the way i always understood it. thanks for the vid.... always fun to watch. and motivation to get my junk rolling.
The power leads for the ecu go to the battery. The relay board and switch power (which trigger on the ecu) are on the switched side of the cutoff switch. So if they kill the power, it kills power to the relay board which will kill switched power to the ecu and all the relays...
@@StreetCarJoe correct. but there are still live wires when the switch is off. I only ask because i am going to wire up my car soon and EFI cars are a little different that the older prostock stuff we used to run. Good info. Thanks again.
This is going to sound like a newbie question, where did you find those p clamps that fit the m10 bolts?
Amazon for everything like that! lol
What size battery wire did you use?
How do u go about hooking up multiple power wires to the battery post ?
You can see in the video I have 2 hooked up to the ground side. Beyond that, you would need a different terminal like this.www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-Battery-Terminals-Shims/dp/B07BSVQLCC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=battery+terminal&qid=1616163026&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyWkZPWEc0UVA0U1hSJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDM0MTEwMjY2Rlg1MUM0REtZTyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTE4OTcyRTJRQTNYUTlYN1RHJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Thanks a bunch. Grest channel and info👍👍
Do you have a link for that crimper?
Hey joe are you using a bolt and nut or the revnuts for the clamps used to hold the ground and power under and inside car. Thank you love the channel
Most of the p clamps holding wiring and stuff on the bottom side of the car are using small self-tappers. If it’s not something I plan on taking on and off a lot I think those are good to go.
Have you ever had an issue running the 4ga power to the distribution block for the starter + relay board? I was told to use at least 2ga even with good welding cable.
This car and my car don’t have enough electrical components to draw enough amps. The have mechanical fuel pumps. On a car that has a big electrical fuel pump and a 200+ amp alternator; I would be using 2ga welding cable. Never bigger
@@StreetCarJoe Hmm, i wonder what I will need. Truck alternator, oem starter, leash street strip, dual electric fuel pumps. Headlights, taillights, power windows etc. I may just do 2ga all around.
@@mathewpen Yeah I think 2ga will get ya covered!
ok Thanks for the info
No problem! 😎
Working on wiring my first car and been watching your series on wiring. Do you use breakers on the power coming from the battery. Is this not needed?
Where so you mount a circuit breaker? Between the battery positive and the cutoff switch?
What is the thickness of the carbon fiber panel you showed at the end of the video? I'm looking to make a panel of my own.
It’s 1/8” thick. Tim Mcamis sells it
How thick should a positive wire be coming from the power to the distribution block?
Hey what headers are those?
Where did you get the firewall bulkhead leads from? Thanks
www.amazon.com/Remote-Battery-Terminal-Feed-Thru/dp/B012V06RBW?ref_=ast_sto_dp
Hey SCJ we enjoy watching all your vids. Keep them coming. Have ever considered using Racepak Smartwire for a PDM when wiring up your race car?
Yeah I feel the smartwire has it’s place. This car is pretty straight forward race car. Just can’t justify a fancy smartwire to hit the starter and turn on a single water pump. 😉
Can I supply my starter and alternator off the same 2ga wire?
Did I miss it but what gauge wire did you use for alternator and other wiring from battery to distribution block and cut off switch? Thanks and super clean work man!
It’s 4ga... but keep in mind this car has a mechanical fuel pump so it doesn’t have a huge electrical draw
@@StreetCarJoe thanks for the info! Awesome work again. Keep up the content we love it.
What relay board/wiring kit would you recommend? How’s the K&R kit? Seem to be good quality? Is their one you would maybe use over that one? I’m open to options just trying to figure out what route to go.
I feel like the K&R is definitely geared towards a bracket racing car. Lots of inputs for delay boxes and that stuff. I run the leash street/strip board on my car. They both seem to do the job well.
@@StreetCarJoe awesome man! Thank you for the quick response and input, keep up the good work with the channel, appreciate the information and the craftsmanship/love for the sport.
Thanks!!! 💪🏻
hey awesome video. extremely helpful on my build. what relay board and control panel are you using?
Its the K&R Super Duty Complete Wiring Kit...
Miss ya Joe! It’s been awhile
Can't wait to see what you bring for dinner! Gotta keep the fabrication guy happy...right?
@@StreetCarJoe I try he’s hard to please
@@DavidVanVoris Popcorn. Bangkok. Ice Cream. Pizza Nomad. Seems pretty easy going if ya ask me...
When you run the grounds for your inputs and 5v switches are the grounds all tied into a terminal trip or all seperate?
Patience... That will be video 4 or 5. But no I won't use the terminal strips. I will be using the step down connectors to hook up all the power and grounds for the inputs/outputs.
what did you use to cover your alternator wire . And where did you get it?
Alex Tech Sleeving. Amazon
www.amazon.com/Alex-Tech-10ft-Protector-Sleeving/dp/B07FW4M7Z8/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=alex%2Btech%2Bsleeving&qid=1616099593&sr=8-2&th=1
The large gauge starter feed (Red) and block ground (starter return Black), both look like size 1AWG, are needed for the starter currents while cranking. If you get the thick fire wall rubber grommets and protect with heat shrink and/or split rubber heater or fuel line you can go directly through the firewall without the added resistance of the pass through and the lugs. You can buy very thick red and black dual wall heat shrink which will prevent any chaffing through the fire wall if also supported with fully cushioned P-Clamps to keep the cable from moving to prevent chaffing. You need a little flexibility (slack) in these cables close to the engine, because the engine will move on its mounts, especially during launch.
If you put a 3/8 inch stud type red and black power point close to the battery in the trunk (keep to a 12 inches or less) you can use this as your star power and ground using the same 1 AWG cable (you can move up to 1/0, but this is not needed) without any negative effects on EFI or CDI or COP ignition operation. This way you can use a crimp battery terminal lug and not the gang screw wire clamps, which I think are higher resistance than the 12 inch common feed when hydraulic crimp lugs are used with a common power point.
It looks like the car does not have an alternator so this wiring in the context of the build did not have to be addressed.
Can you give the wire sizing your using for each aspect?
Will do. So far everything in this video is 4ga. He only has a 100amp alternator and its a mechanical fuel pump so the draw on the electrical system will be minimal.
@@StreetCarJoe thank you very much Joe
Nice work!
What size wire did you go with for the alternator?
This car has 4ga. It doesn't have a lot of electronics with the mechanical fuel pump, etc
@@StreetCarJoe gotcha thank you for the reply I appreciate it .
Do you use any kind of fuse/circuit breaker on the positive lead going to the front of the car? Or did i miss that part?
Are you going to 2k still
My distributor block has three holes what is postive and negative and the other hole for
Hey joe, going to put the battery in the trunk in my 2019 mustang. What gauge wire would you recommend? 2? Thanks man. Love the content
2ga for sure! Good luck with the relocation!
Thank you sir. Keep up the content!! It’s very educational and honestly some of my favorite on UA-cam
How do you determine what size power in ground to run from the battery up to the polecat? Is there such a thing as being too big?
Yeah you can do too big. There is a big formula for distance and amps drawn to determine power wire size. I’d say most cars with a mechanical fuel system are good for 4ga welding cable. If you have electric pumps and a bigger alternator like a 200amp, I’d go 2ga welding cable. Quality wire helps a ton as well so you don’t have to use huge wire.
@@StreetCarJoe excellent. Thanks for the information 👍
What cut off switch?
Moroso 4 post
What gauge wire are you running? You might need it be a bit thicker to compensate for all of that length! At least on my car, since it runs to the back as well, I use 2 AWG wire
Can i run a solenoid off the distribution block to my K&R switch panel ?
Curious if there’s any other main battery terminals you’d recommend, I see you’re using the standard parts store ones but we always run into issues with the tension plates fatiguing and causing loose connections. Excellent videos so far man, glad you finally made a channel.
Good point. I've seen people use a variety of different ones. The ones I use are GM ones. Wether or not the quality is better than the parts store ones, who knows. Dont over tighten and I haven't had any issues...
@@StreetCarJoe I’ll have to look into the GM versions, thanks for that.
@@lse90garage I get them from my favorite place 😉 ACDelco 3BA35 Professional Battery Cable Terminal www.amazon.com/dp/B0054T95ZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7JSV104P86V75TBBWHV8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm running a msd 7al2 do I have to run that to the battery or can I just get power from the dist. block on Firewall?
I looked real quick for ya and the instructions state that you can go directly to the battery or a good junction block, just not the alternator.
Is there a vid where I can see how you wired the on/off switch? and do you not run a switch controlled main on/off solenoid for the power of the car besides the push on/off? Like switched power for the main power and relay power? Or do you just have constant power controlled by the push on/off switch? I just am worried about an accident and no way to cut the main power cable and not having a breaker and relying on someone cutting my main power In The rear of the car. If that makes sense.
If you have the battery inside of the car, in the passenger seat area. What size wire would you recommend for neg and pos?
Nice
Thanks
Would be good idea to use red heat shrink, on positives.....
I’ve never been a fan of the colored stuff. But yeah it would be a good idea!
What gauge is the power and ground wires
Isolated grounds 👍
💪🏻
Like Joe said, definitely wire the ECU & smart coils directly to the battery.
I chased an issue with a car that has a Haltech & IGN1A coils, it was breaking up badly when it got into boost, almost like it was hitting a rev limiter at 4500rpm.
Ended up being the ECU & coils were wired positive & negative to a distribution post inside the car & not to the battery like Joe mentions.
Wired them directly to the battery & problem solved!
Keep up the good work Joe, looking forward to more wiring content 👍🏼
Thanks man! Yeah I've seen too many issues not grounding stuff properly lately it seems...
What's up Joe - I ran 4 gauge power and ground cables per your instruction from the battery to bulkheads on the passenger side of my car. While testing the starter, it drags for a sec and this picks up spinning over. My car is a 64 Plymouth Fury (long car). Do you thing I need to try 2 gauge to assist the starter with power?
you can measure voltage drop on the power and ground circuit but personally, on a street car I run 1/0 or at bare minimum a 2ga
@@travispfannmuller7717 I have since switched to 2ga, which made a significant difference. Thanks for the response!
What size wire r u using to run power/ground the length of vehicle like that?
Not much electrical on this car with a mechanical pump. It has 4ga wire
@@StreetCarJoe ok I had 0 on my 4th gen with electric pumps. Maybe I can get away with 2 or 4 on my mustang with mechanical pump and smart coils
@@Onalky87 Yeah I had 4ga on my mustang with mechanical pump, electric water pump, electric fans, trans fans, lights, smart coils, 16x injectors. 100 amp alternator.
I’m still having a problem from part 1! When can I drop my car off? #notificationgang
Haha! Bring it by 😉
Looks like you do a great job with all of the wiring, except for the battery terminal connectors. You have an expensive battery, batter mount...etc and you go with the cheapest battery terminal connectors ever. Look how the wires and clamped on those things. It’s only a few $$ to get some much nicer and more reliable ones!!
Hi guys I need some help I've been building a car and I can't seem to my coilpack wiring correct can anyone advise me on how to wire up a coil properly
😎
Hey joe I’m not nocking ur work don’t u hate those battery connections that u just strip some wire off a jam it under there an Tighten it down I’d rather use the eyeball connectors the crampons end at the battery’s because I’ve seen those ends ur using break in 2 pieces I uses the battery cable ends with the stud other than that all of ur other ideas were great 👍
I buy the AC Delco version of them, not the cheap parts store. I really like them to be honest. Just don’t overtighten and they work better than most I feel like...
Thanks for the video! I’ll be using this as a guide once I start wiring my car up. Also can you show some pics of the mini tub area? I can DM you on Instagram if that’s okay
Yeah shoot me a message and I can get ya some. 💪🏻
Why does NOBODY ever put their POSITIVE DISTRIBUTION POST on some sort of insulated standoff?
signal grounds need connection too battery
all else can go too body
Dang this guy is loud 🤣
Too loud... ugh
What a pain in the dick! I just want to move my battery in my street car to the trunk and run one + wire to a distribution block under the hood.
My distributor block has three holes what is postive and negative and the other hole for
My distributor block has three holes what is postive and negative and the other hole for