I was really focus thru the beginning of the assembly and then my head drifted away when everything was looking so neat and organized. I’ll have to watch this video, over and over again.
And I'm still just as lost, but teacher Merri with the pointer and the bun made it more than worth it lol. I'll watch it a few more times and see if the confusion of buss bars and such becoming less muddy. Thanks for the video guys!
I've done a lot of wiring on wrecker trucks, your work is spot on and very clean. Planning ahead is THE BEST and most useful part of a project like this along with making it serviceable.
I can't say I agree with all your choices for relays and power distribution because I prefer to use other brands and solutions. But I will say you did an excellent job on the install.
Thank you for the simple easy to understand video... Just got a 74 GMC Jimmy with a 454 😁..going through the old wires trying to make her reliable. Thanks again 👍
That's some clean wire management and I also love good labeling in a control circuit. You guys did a great job! This is a FAR superior design to integrated all-in-one switch kits. Durable, expandable and, most importantly, easily repaired
You guys are awesome. ...I just did one myself but a smaller version. ...I do admit, I'm a bit inspired to copycat yours. ..keep up the good work . thumbs up.
Just wanted to say Thank you for this awesome video and the references!. That article is awesome! Just a note, there is a typo in one of the part numbers that are listed. "Four Position Fuse Block, Waytek Wire #4680" Should be part #46080 Just found that when I was making a shopping list. Thanks again!
My only pointer would be to use some sort of plastic or rubber gromet for when the wires passes through holes in the aluminum, to protect the wire insulation. Otherwise very clean.
Dont forget those little add a fuse taps ARE directional. If the tap is put in the wrong way with the wrong leg tab in the power hole it bypasses the fuse. The incoming power slot is the farthest leg tab with the outgoing power slot the closest to to tap wire.
Yes, I'm copying this setup too. One question. You have this connected to your main starting battery. Would this be best connected to an auxiliary battery? I assume it would be the same setup.
Okay... this is awesome. And I came to it as a power trays customer. Here's the fun question... I'm following your directions and have a cart going at Waytech. But everything is about 5 times the amount I need. Do you know if they'd work with a DIYer who doesn't need 100 water plugs and 100 blue wire seals? My cart is over $200 and doesn't need to be approaching that. Thanks for all you do!
I'm backing out my under the hood compressor and putting this in. I'll let you know if there's an updated parts list if you are interested. Thank you for this
This is a very cool setup! I am just baffled by what the bus bars do? How do they work? Is there metal on the other side of them to touch the bottom of the fuses on the bussman fuse block or is that a totally separate system only powering those larger fuses and used to offer 4 ground and power points as you add fuses to the fuse block????
It's interesting how I watched this video 2 years ago and after learning a bunch of stuff I came back to it today and all the stuff I have determined I need on my rig is exactly what they're using. It really goes to show you can give a monkey a computer but it ain't any good if he doesn't know how to use it.
Hey guys. Building this exact setup, thank you again for all you do with your instructional videos. Anyway. Just another question. My light bar has a 40A relay. And the relays used in the Bussman box are 35A. In your opinion, can i just use one of the existing relays in the setup for my light bar or should I do it just as you've described?
Old video but I’m wondering where you power your winch from? Straight off the battery still? Thanks for the video. I’m starting to get enough things bolted on to the battery that a system needs to get put on somewhere.
In this design, there is no local grounding in the fuse box for the accessory device, right? It is assumed it is being grounded to the chassis close to wherever it is?
@@WanderlostOverland Is it better to ground the device on the chassis near the device or to run a ( - ) wire all the way back to the battery/( - ) busbar?
Question: I see you hooked the positive wire from the battery to the port labeled “AUX” on the main breaker and the port labeled “BAT” to your BUS bars. Labels seem backwards? Please advise. Thank you.
I just went out and looked and the wires are oriented the correct way. In the video I noticed that you're right, they are reversed. At some point we switched them.
Depends, if it's a simple low amp light we most often will ground to the body. If it draws more power, like a big light bar or compressor, we ground to an internal busbar in the fuse box.
@@WanderlostOverland great thanks for the response! I am wiring up some lights and have been trying to figure out where to ground. Are there specific grounds on the body you use?
@@RussBlumenthal Any small bolt holding something on the body will likely work. It's important to scrape the paint off so the ground wire makes good contact.
How did you get thru the firewall? I have a 2016 and can’t find a factory spot accessible. I’d like to make a small relay/fuse box for just a couple switches. I’m also wanting to install my CB radio. Needing to pass the antenna coaxial ( large ends ). How or where do you run yours? I think I’m going in mount my CB where your switch panel is. The number of switches I want will fit in the factory knock-out panel to the left. Your videos at. I’ve watched so many.
Below the brake system on the firewall there's a big rubber grommet that a stock group of wires goes through. We poked another hole in it and ran our wires through it.
Love the video ! Great information on building an extra fuse panel . I do have a few questions I hope you can help with . This panel looks like it can pull some serious amps . Does Toyota offer a higher output alternator for the FJ ? If an alternator isn't an option then maybe changing the pulley size ? I know you would not have the panel at 100 % ever but at night with your head lights on and several other light running then with your communication , navigation could it over load a stock alternator ?
I do believe their is a higher amp alternator that fits on the FJ. Maybe off a Tundra? We don't pull to much through our panel mostly thanks to low amp LEDs. We've never had a problem, in fact, when we turn higher draw accessories on the headlights nor anything else shows any effect. Thanks for watching!
Or you can buy a switchpro, only reason I say this, is that is is less prone to failure from sticky relays, and time is money. Great job on video as always. Look forward to seeing you guys in 2021
Unfortunately Powertray doesn't make one for Jeeps. I was going to buy one for my 14 JKU. I might just buy a premade terminal box. I was completely lost, with all the wiring. Auto electrical is not something you want to screw up.
We seen a lot of under the hood and behind the dash fires. It's incredibly important to use the correct size wires, connectors, and switches. And fuse EVERYTHING!
Do you not own a proper crimping tool? No need for solder if you use the right crimping tool. Properly crimped connections are typically more reliable than soldered connections. Crimped connections also handle vibration much better, which there is a bit of in overlanding.
Crimping vs. soldering has been a topic of debate since the beginning of time. Both have their pros and cons. Our experience has thought us that soldering works best for the conditions we operate under. Thanks for the input.
I cant take advice from anyone who makes a crimp with needle nose pliers..use the right tool and you dont need to use solder which definitely isnt the best practice..
I was really focus thru the beginning of the assembly and then my head drifted away when everything was looking so neat and organized. I’ll have to watch this video, over and over again.
Production value is insane compared to other automotive channels
And I'm still just as lost, but teacher Merri with the pointer and the bun made it more than worth it lol. I'll watch it a few more times and see if the confusion of buss bars and such becoming less muddy. Thanks for the video guys!
Khorsathedark LOL, thanks for watching. Check out that website we mentioned. There is a ton of good technical info .
Yeah that teacher part left me very distracted lol 🙈.
Hands down best diy automotive lighting video.
I love the scalability and differentiation between high draw and low draw accessories. Pretty easy to understand, great video!
Awesome, thank you!
I've done a lot of wiring on wrecker trucks, your work is spot on and very clean. Planning ahead is THE BEST and most useful part of a project like this along with making it serviceable.
Thank you!!!!
She's the epitome of professional and he literally didn't even finger comb his hair 😆
That said, this video is awesome 👍
😊 thank you
You had me the second you slammed the stick on the board 😅, brilliant presentation 👏 awesome ,helped me a lot on a different project 😀 👍
Glad it helped!
I can't say I agree with all your choices for relays and power distribution because I prefer to use other brands and solutions. But I will say you did an excellent job on the install.
Thank you for the simple easy to understand video... Just got a 74 GMC Jimmy with a 454 😁..going through the old wires trying to make her reliable. Thanks again 👍
Thanks for mentioning Waytek as the supplier of many of the parts featured here!
Our pleasure!
Great video. So glad there wasn’t a quiz at the end.
Us too!
That's some clean wire management and I also love good labeling in a control circuit. You guys did a great job! This is a FAR superior design to integrated all-in-one switch kits. Durable, expandable and, most importantly, easily repaired
Thank you!
Great video, very easy to follow, and the most detailed I have found on UA-cam. Any numpty (ie me) can follow this. Great work guys!
Awesome, thank you!
Probably the cleanest job I have ever seen! Very nicely done! Impressive! Thanks for the detailed how-to...
Thanks for watching!
Wow, wow, wow! I can only dream of understanding this...lol going to try to read the link you gave.
My copycat panel is all wired up. Thanks to you both!
Great DIY. I have a buddy that's an electronics guru and he just built my power system. I wish I would have waited and tried it myself.
This was a serious game changer
You guys are awesome. ...I just did one myself but a smaller version. ...I do admit, I'm a bit inspired to copycat yours. ..keep up the good work . thumbs up.
Just wanted to say Thank you for this awesome video and the references!. That article is awesome! Just a note, there is a typo in one of the part numbers that are listed. "Four Position Fuse Block, Waytek Wire #4680" Should be part #46080 Just found that when I was making a shopping list. Thanks again!
Amazing work Thanks!!!❤
Very educational!!!!
Great collaboration nice video very inspire thanks allot for that job 🇩🇰👍
Thanks for watching!
Very nice how-to.
Wow! Another great video Mark and Merri!
That's incredibly clean. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching Will!
Great video y’all! Very informative and funny!
Thanks so much!
My only pointer would be to use some sort of plastic or rubber gromet for when the wires passes through holes in the aluminum, to protect the wire insulation. Otherwise very clean.
So genius!
Awesome! Thanks!
Our pleasure!
Great video - wish you could make me one or lived close enough to Burien wa for me to come help and learn . Like the mom and dad I never had lol
That would be cool!
Still a heckuva video
Thank you for the video, but I must say heck of a lot easier just to buy one already made
Dont forget those little add a fuse taps ARE directional. If the tap is put in the wrong way with the wrong leg tab in the power hole it bypasses the fuse. The incoming power slot is the farthest leg tab with the outgoing power slot the closest to to tap wire.
Yes, I'm copying this setup too. One question. You have this connected to your main starting battery. Would this be best connected to an auxiliary battery? I assume it would be the same setup.
Do you use the same connector for the Relays and Fuses?
I'm about to venture into a project like this for my Tacoma.
Okay... this is awesome. And I came to it as a power trays customer. Here's the fun question... I'm following your directions and have a cart going at Waytech. But everything is about 5 times the amount I need. Do you know if they'd work with a DIYer who doesn't need 100 water plugs and 100 blue wire seals? My cart is over $200 and doesn't need to be approaching that. Thanks for all you do!
Unfortunately all they sell is in bulk.
Just got my box. I think I’ll package up a kit to help the next people! Thanks for the guide. After a few watches, the light bulb has gone off.
Would you be able to use a low voltage dash switch and jump it to each relay, like a daisy chain to trigger all the relays at once ?
yes
Great video. Wondering why you have seem to have two different relays controlling your air compressor?
I'm backing out my under the hood compressor and putting this in. I'll let you know if there's an updated parts list if you are interested. Thank you for this
This is a very cool setup! I am just baffled by what the bus bars do? How do they work? Is there metal on the other side of them to touch the bottom of the fuses on the bussman fuse block or is that a totally separate system only powering those larger fuses and used to offer 4 ground and power points as you add fuses to the fuse block????
It's interesting how I watched this video 2 years ago and after learning a bunch of stuff I came back to it today and all the stuff I have determined I need on my rig is exactly what they're using. It really goes to show you can give a monkey a computer but it ain't any good if he doesn't know how to use it.
Hey guys. Building this exact setup, thank you again for all you do with your instructional videos. Anyway. Just another question. My light bar has a 40A relay. And the relays used in the Bussman box are 35A. In your opinion, can i just use one of the existing relays in the setup for my light bar or should I do it just as you've described?
I'm pretty sure the 35 amp will do just fine. Check the amp draw spec on your lightbar just to make sure. I can't imagine it being nearly 40.
@@WanderlostOverland Well, it's a 200w bar. 40 x 5w Cree LEDs. And at 12v, that's 16.6 amps. If my electrical conversion is correct.
Old video but I’m wondering where you power your winch from? Straight off the battery still?
Thanks for the video. I’m starting to get enough things bolted on to the battery that a system needs to get put on somewhere.
In this design, there is no local grounding in the fuse box for the accessory device, right? It is assumed it is being grounded to the chassis close to wherever it is?
Correct.
@@WanderlostOverland Is it better to ground the device on the chassis near the device or to run a ( - ) wire all the way back to the battery/( - ) busbar?
What terminals did you use for the 10GA wire on the RTMR? The biggest ones I can find on waytek are 14-12GA
It's been so long ago I don't remember, sorry.
Question: I see you hooked the positive wire from the battery to the port labeled “AUX” on the main breaker and the port labeled “BAT” to your BUS bars.
Labels seem backwards?
Please advise.
Thank you.
I just went out and looked and the wires are oriented the correct way. In the video I noticed that you're right, they are reversed. At some point we switched them.
I love you guys
We love you!!!!
Great video! What would you say the ballpark total cost of this was?
Sadly, probably more than a premade panel.
Did you add a relay or solenoid from the ignition so that you will not accidentally drain your battery?
Thx
That might be the largest Panel box that I have ever seen on a regular commuter car.
It’s neither normal nor a commuter car. LOL
This may be a silly question and I may have missed it, but where are you grounding your lights and other items when using this?
Depends, if it's a simple low amp light we most often will ground to the body. If it draws more power, like a big light bar or compressor, we ground to an internal busbar in the fuse box.
@@WanderlostOverland great thanks for the response! I am wiring up some lights and have been trying to figure out where to ground. Are there specific grounds on the body you use?
@@RussBlumenthal Any small bolt holding something on the body will likely work. It's important to scrape the paint off so the ground wire makes good contact.
@@WanderlostOverland great thank you very much, your videos and comments are always so helpful!
have you a template for the bussmann relay box - the alum plate you have it mounted on
In the video we tell where we got the mounting tray, and in the video description we provide a link to it.
How did you get thru the firewall? I have a 2016 and can’t find a factory spot accessible. I’d like to make a small relay/fuse box for just a couple switches. I’m also wanting to install my CB radio. Needing to pass the antenna coaxial ( large ends ). How or where do you run yours? I think I’m going in mount my CB where your switch panel is. The number of switches I want will fit in the factory knock-out panel to the left. Your videos at. I’ve watched so many.
Below the brake system on the firewall there's a big rubber grommet that a stock group of wires goes through. We poked another hole in it and ran our wires through it.
If you do build one for the fj, could you post the parts you use and wiring diagram? Electrical is not my strong suit and I wanna try this...
Love the video ! Great information on building an extra fuse panel . I do have a few questions I hope you can help with . This panel looks like it can pull some serious amps . Does Toyota offer a higher output alternator for the FJ ? If an alternator isn't an option then maybe changing the pulley size ? I know you would not have the panel at 100 % ever but at night with your head lights on and several other light running then with your communication , navigation could it over load a stock alternator ?
I do believe their is a higher amp alternator that fits on the FJ. Maybe off a Tundra? We don't pull to much through our panel mostly thanks to low amp LEDs. We've never had a problem, in fact, when we turn higher draw accessories on the headlights nor anything else shows any effect. Thanks for watching!
what power source are you using to power the switch inside the cab?
That comes from a fused circuit on the panel.
Or you can buy a switchpro, only reason I say this, is that is is less prone to failure from sticky relays, and time is money. Great job on video as always. Look forward to seeing you guys in 2021
Yes, true
Which rig are you putting this in? FJ or the Runner?
This one's going in the 4Runner but we have enough parts left over that we may build one for the FJ too.
What’s the cost difference vs a spod
The SPOD is probably cheaper. We like the customization that comes with building our own though.
UA-cam.knows.realy.what.we.want.to.learn.thumbs....uppp0😊😅😅😅😅ows.
Unfortunately Powertray doesn't make one for Jeeps. I was going to buy one for my 14 JKU. I might just buy a premade terminal box. I was completely lost, with all the wiring. Auto electrical is not something you want to screw up.
We seen a lot of under the hood and behind the dash fires. It's incredibly important to use the correct size wires, connectors, and switches. And fuse EVERYTHING!
podrian hacerlos en español jejejejejeejeje
Whoa opening scene, that’s how some porn starts, 🤣! Joking aside thanks for the awesome content!
Oh hell naw, just gonna buy a spod lmao
Do you not own a proper crimping tool? No need for solder if you use the right crimping tool. Properly crimped connections are typically more reliable than soldered connections. Crimped connections also handle vibration much better, which there is a bit of in overlanding.
Crimping vs. soldering has been a topic of debate since the beginning of time. Both have
their pros and cons. Our experience has thought us that soldering works best
for the conditions we operate under. Thanks for the input.
Overall a good video and you di a good job describing your layout.
But all that money spent and you couldn't buy a proper crimper for 30 bucks??
Fair enough!
I believe you are being shadow banned. 92k views but my screen show 9 likes?!
Can't fit in econolines
chick is hot
I cant take advice from anyone who makes a crimp with needle nose pliers..use the right tool and you dont need to use solder which definitely isnt the best practice..
Thanks for watching!
Good job but Jesus Christ that setup is as bulky as for a Mack truck. Those connectors are clown 🤡 size
Thanks.for.this.video.i.ve.been.waiting..fore.youtube.fo😊😊😊r,the.nation😅