I feel like a lot of this is what many of us understood, at least in theory. Maybe not the fact that Accessory power goes OFF when you’re starting the car. In the end, though, seeing it with the aid of the test light and without the dash and trim in the way makes it so much easier to understand! Thanks, Pete, and HNY!
Pete you did an excellent job with this video. I’d love to see the feed coming from those bus bars and how you determined how much you could or would put on each.
Great video. My kit car is being wired a bit differently. I'm using a donor car keeping all that wiring for the chassis. Did a motor swap and using that harness and fuse block for that engine. So two fuse boxes which I think will be okay but your explanation helped. As I need to get the engine harness power ACC and ignition power. Thanks
Great video! I plan to use a Bus Bar for clean ignition power and ground. My question is, is it okay to splice into Ignition Power and then have item (Fuel pumps for two tanks) routed into PDM? I'm installing a Holley Sniper 2 EFI with PDM and Hyperspark into a ‘74 Chevy K10. Ign Power~Bus Bar~PDM using 14awg…do you think that will be good enough? I'm just nervous to cut and splice that wire.
This is very interesting. I'm measuring the resistance between the wires at to the top of the fuse box and chassis ground. Should the resistance always be low, like ground to ground resistance, or does it depend on the components in each circuit? And should all of those connections have continuity with ground?
If there is nothing in the circuit resistance should be low. Some things will not have continuity to ground if there is a switch or relay in the system
@PetesGarage is it okay to have both the main power that like goes to main relay in fuse box (which powers entire box including ecu) and also plus the starter solenoid relay on single switch on my switch panel?
Hello, Great video . i wanted to ask you , in this setup, does the positive wire from the battery to the ignition switch go through or the fuse box or it bypasses it? also , are the always on accessories like the horn ,lights powered by the positive wire from the battery or does it split in the fuse box to be fused? i have a trouble understanding how did you route and differentiate between always on accessories and the others because they all seem to come from the same fuse box. thanks a lot!
@@PetesGarage i understand .so the FUSED ignition switch goes further to power the other indepedently FUSED various accessories .hats off to your efforts ,they are invaluable
so you are running a wire (ACC terminal) from ignition switch to connector leg and the wire to power the primary ignition connector leg come from Batt terminal on the ignition switch or it comes directly from batt?
Hey I was just wondering because I couldn’t quite understand it in the video, but if I wire something to the accessory power will it still have power when the car is running and driving? Thanks Liam
Ok so have an old 2006 Toyota Camry just need a positive trigger wire from fuse box to boot (using double adapter fuse holder) I’m guessing fuse is under dash is where I can install? It’s for dc to dc charger, the thing is I have fuse called “ECU-IG” I’m guessing that’s it?
Hello Pete, Question I have an old 75 scout 11 and the old style glass fuse panel is pretty much shot, I'd like to install a new fuse panel and remove the old one. I have the factory service manual and have the wiring schematic. Essentially there is a battery feed connector a packard 3 over 3 style that has a 10 ga wire that runs and powers one leg of the fuse panel. there is a 12 ga pink wire that runs to the Ignition B terminal which is always hot, and like you explain the ign switch is where the constant and switched items feed from. so my question is is the entire fuse panel always hot? mean you have your fuses protecting the hazzards the lights the headlights ect, but it doesn't seem to me there are any switched items at the fuse panel, so if i run that 10ga from the battery feed to my new panel do I just connect it to the hot lug feed at the bottom and the whole panel is hot? I'm sure you get my question. thanks in advance you're the best on the tube at describing these things and a great instructor.
@@PetesGarage Sounds to me like he wants to how is he gonna run ignition power that controls things that are not always hot but need to obviously be fused. Because in many boxes that are bought there’s only hot. He needs one that’s split where he can run a wire from the ignition power to the box as well to run those things that aren’t always hot. Or run two block one hot one switched
i really appreciate ur help to understand how to wire acc leg connector and power leg connectors.I just trying to connect ignition switch on my 1952 chevy truck so another question about ign sw is, is possible to run wire from BATT to power leg and same wire to IGN SW on BATT terminal or have to run a wire to power leg terminal and another to IGN sw on BATT terminal. Than a wire from starter solenoid to IGN SW on ST terminal and another wire from NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH to IGN sw on S terminal? this is confuse because there some ign switch with 5 terminals (batt, starter, ignition 1. ignition 2 and acc) and the one in your configuration is 4 terminals. nay ways thankyou to share your knowledge with others,
Hello Pete. Question. when u turns the key to start the engine, the red wire from Batt touch the Ppl wire from neutral safety switch to turns he engine on, How this circuit works?
am installing keyless key future in my 53 chevy truck so the manual instruction say to connect some wires to starter 1, starter 2, accessory 1, accesory 2, ign 1 and ign 2 so can you help me to know what terminals are in the ignition switch?
My girlfriend inherited a 1966 ERA Cobra 427 Replica her dad built it & the battery is in the engine compartment and can not figure out how to remove it to replace it... Any advise would be helpful... Thank you
@@PetesGarage I figured it out that I have to remove the valve cover. I didn't want to believe that was how it was done but it is.. Thank you replying back to me.. Love your video's....
Very informative but you took a simple process and It explanation lost me in 2 minutes. Way too much info for it to be a simple wiring task. Could have summed it up in less than 3-5 mins. But it was very informative and you obviously know what you are doing!
I feel like a lot of this is what many of us understood, at least in theory. Maybe not the fact that Accessory power goes OFF when you’re starting the car. In the end, though, seeing it with the aid of the test light and without the dash and trim in the way makes it so much easier to understand! Thanks, Pete, and HNY!
Thanks Mike, as I was looking at it I thought it would be a good chance to share, wiring is a tough one to explain.
Happy New Year, Pete! Very timely video, getting ready to tackle the wiring harness portion of my restoration. Appreciate the tips!
Excellent, good luck my friend
Thanks Pete from Australia. Wishing you good health for ‘22 😊
Thanks my friend, I wish you the same
Great explanation! Thanks for talking to a novice audience also and not in such technical language.
My pleasure!
Thank you Pete. I was looking for a video like this for a day now that explains these details like you did. Thank you for the clear explanation.
You're welcome my friend
I really appreciate your videos. It’s helped me immensely. You also are a great instructor!
Thank you, that is very kind of you
Pete you did an excellent job with this video. I’d love to see the feed coming from those bus bars and how you determined how much you could or would put on each.
Thanks for the idea!
Great video. My kit car is being wired a bit differently. I'm using a donor car keeping all that wiring for the chassis. Did a motor swap and using that harness and fuse block for that engine. So two fuse boxes which I think will be okay but your explanation helped. As I need to get the engine harness power ACC and ignition power. Thanks
Thanks
Very helpful info, excellent explanations and video, thank you!
Thanks my friend
Going to watch this later. Just came to drop a Like. Happy New Year!
Thanks my friend
Thanku sir, i am from india and i learn so much from you, you are my teacher
That is very nice of you, thank you
Great information. Happy New Year!
Happy new year my friend, thank you
Happy New Year Pete to you and your family. Great and thorough explanation. 👍
Happy new year to you as well Arthur. Thank you!
Man this was so helpful. Thank you
Glad it helped!
Very informative keep up the good work well explained thanks
Thank you very much Alex
This video explains it all! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great explanation Pete!! Happy New Year!!!
Happy new year!
Great video 👍
Thanks 👍
Thanks for the info. Nice and clear
Glad it was helpful!
YOU ARE THE BEST 👍👍👍
Thanks Tom
Best explanation video
Glad you liked it
Looks clean to me👍.
Thanks James
excellent video !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you very much!
Great video!
I plan to use a Bus Bar for clean ignition power and ground. My question is, is it okay to splice into Ignition Power and then have item (Fuel pumps for two tanks) routed into PDM? I'm installing a Holley Sniper 2 EFI with PDM and Hyperspark into a ‘74 Chevy K10.
Ign Power~Bus Bar~PDM using 14awg…do you think that will be good enough?
I'm just nervous to cut and splice that wire.
It would be better to run the fuel pumps through a fuse first
This is very interesting. I'm measuring the resistance between the wires at to the top of the fuse box and chassis ground. Should the resistance always be low, like ground to ground resistance, or does it depend on the components in each circuit? And should all of those connections have continuity with ground?
If there is nothing in the circuit resistance should be low. Some things will not have continuity to ground if there is a switch or relay in the system
Great video
Thanks!
Great information thanks 😊
Thanks Mike!
else i want to install a a cube relay on my ignition so do you know what wire i need to run to the relay?
I'd have to see a wiring diagram
Very helpful thank you !
Thanks!
@PetesGarage is it okay to have both the main power that like goes to main relay in fuse box (which powers entire box including ecu) and also plus the starter solenoid relay on single switch on my switch panel?
Hello, Great video . i wanted to ask you , in this setup, does the positive wire from the battery to the ignition switch go through or the fuse box or it bypasses it?
also , are the always on accessories like the horn ,lights powered by the positive wire from the battery or does it split in the fuse box to be fused?
i have a trouble understanding how did you route and differentiate between always on accessories and the others because they all seem to come from the same fuse box. thanks a lot!
It goes trough the fuse box. The accessories are also powered positive through the accessory fuse
@@PetesGarage i understand .so the FUSED ignition switch goes further to power the other indepedently FUSED various accessories .hats off to your efforts ,they are invaluable
Fantastic sir
So nice of you
so you are running a wire (ACC terminal) from ignition switch to connector leg and the wire to power the primary ignition connector leg come from Batt terminal on the ignition switch or it comes directly from batt?
Directly from the battery
Hey I was just wondering because I couldn’t quite understand it in the video, but if I wire something to the accessory power will it still have power when the car is running and driving?
Thanks Liam
Yes it will
Ok so have an old 2006 Toyota Camry just need a positive trigger wire from fuse box to boot (using double adapter fuse holder) I’m guessing fuse is under dash is where I can install? It’s for dc to dc charger, the thing is I have fuse called “ECU-IG” I’m guessing that’s it?
The ECU is the computer so it will be on as soon as you turn on the car
@@PetesGarage great thanks for the help
Hello Pete, Question I have an old 75 scout 11 and the old style glass fuse panel is pretty much shot, I'd like to install a new fuse panel and remove the old one. I have the factory service manual and have the wiring schematic. Essentially there is a battery feed connector a packard 3 over 3 style that has a 10 ga wire that runs and powers one leg of the fuse panel. there is a 12 ga pink wire that runs to the Ignition B terminal which is always hot, and like you explain the ign switch is where the constant and switched items feed from. so my question is is the entire fuse panel always hot? mean you have your fuses protecting the hazzards the lights the headlights ect, but it doesn't seem to me there are any switched items at the fuse panel, so if i run that 10ga from the battery feed to my new panel do I just connect it to the hot lug feed at the bottom and the whole panel is hot? I'm sure you get my question. thanks in advance you're the best on the tube at describing these things and a great instructor.
Parts of the fuse panel are always hot, and other parts become hot when the ignition switches turned on. That's my guess
@@PetesGarage thank you sir that's what I thought.
@@PetesGarage Sounds to me like he wants to how is he gonna run ignition power that controls things that are not always hot but need to obviously be fused. Because in many boxes that are bought there’s only hot. He needs one that’s split where he can run a wire from the ignition power to the box as well to run those things that aren’t always hot. Or run two block one hot one switched
Thx for sharing
My pleasure
i really appreciate ur help to understand how to wire acc leg connector and power leg connectors.I just trying to connect ignition switch on my 1952 chevy truck so another question about ign sw is, is possible to run wire from BATT to power leg and same wire to IGN SW on BATT terminal or have to run a wire to power leg terminal and another to IGN sw on BATT terminal. Than a wire from starter solenoid to IGN SW on ST terminal and another wire from NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH to IGN sw on S terminal? this is confuse because there some ign switch with 5 terminals (batt, starter, ignition 1. ignition 2 and acc) and the one in your configuration is 4 terminals. nay ways thankyou to share your knowledge with others,
You can run a wire straight to the switch
Hello Pete. Question. when u turns the key to start the engine, the red wire from Batt touch the Ppl wire from neutral safety switch to turns he engine on, How this circuit works?
The neutral safety switch breaks continuity so the starter won't operate. Being in neutral completes the circuit.
@@PetesGarage tank you for a quick response this video is very help full
Hello! What is awg of wire are u using from ign key to power legs and ground leg (how rick are those wires)?
It goes by amps drawn. If you have a 50 amp main in the fuse box, use 10 gauge, 20 amps is 12 gauge
How can I supply power for the engine to work with a separate battery?
Make a separate wiring circuit
What happens when you turn the truck off? I got a truck that won’t turn off with the key out
It all depends on the truck
am installing keyless key future in my 53 chevy truck so the manual instruction say to connect some wires to starter 1, starter 2, accessory 1, accesory 2, ign 1 and ign 2 so can you help me to know what terminals are in the ignition switch?
Start is when you turn the key to start, accessory is when the key is just on, and ignition is always hot
Good Work
Thanks!
My girlfriend inherited a 1966 ERA Cobra 427 Replica her dad built it & the battery is in the engine compartment and can not figure out how to remove it to replace it... Any advise would be helpful... Thank you
I would have to see some pictures
@@PetesGarage I figured it out that I have to remove the valve cover. I didn't want to believe that was how it was done but it is.. Thank you replying back to me.. Love your video's....
I've seen crazy things than that needed to remove a battery
Awesome
👍💪
Thanks!
My brakes lights and wipers only work when the ignition is on accessory! It a 1995 GMC Please help
That's a tough one
Do you have a video of ground switched set ups?
No, but the switch should come with a wiring diagram
Very informative but you took a simple process and It explanation lost me in 2 minutes. Way too much info for it to be a simple wiring task. Could have summed it up in less than 3-5 mins. But it was very informative and you obviously know what you are doing!
I appreciate the feedback!