Hi Joel! Thank you for watching this video and leaving such a nice comment, always appreciated! That's great that you can now repurpose your leftovers into something that adds value to your home. I wish you the best with that project 👍
BTW I was trying to make tiny shingles (e.g. out of 1x3) for a chicken coop. I don't have a bandsaw. Word of warning -- don't try this with a table saw. :-)
😅I can only imagine!! I did small shingles for a chicken coop as well. I found that scoring the shingle with a sharp utility knife was all that was needed...I was able to snap the shingle with not much force at all👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 you used normal sized shingles, and scored/snapped them? Trying to visualize how that turned out, without having shingles of very different thicknesses. I'm going for shingles that are about 1" x 3".
You don't need to draw the angled line what you do is run the block against a outside fence but Shim out the block at one end from the fence so the block sets at angle. Because you're not cutting the fence side of the block you can shim out with a drywall screw to ride the fence.
The problem that people don't realize is that historically they cut these things at a very specific angle in the wood - rather like quartering-- Because this process was more durable in the sun and rain over time. Simply cutting these out means that they're going to warp and cup.
I think you are referring to a froe and they hand split them tangent to the growth rings, as well as thick. Thick meaning one inch or better. White oak makes the best shakes……
Making shims or shakes is a dangerous process. I make them both with a fixture that clamps the work piece and ensures my figures are as far away from the blade as they can be. I always use a sharp blade and take my time and never hurry in letting the blade do its job.
He just cut a bunch of face grain. They need to be clear and split so the edge grain is showing, that's what makes them stable. If you have a bunch of 3/4" clear cedar around you could mill high grade shingles but the per linear foot of 1x6 clear is $5.50 right now. I think you could sand them to a really nice finish and have an unbelievably nice looking roof but the cost is the same as #1 shingles plus the time to mill it.
Great video although the music🎶 is a bit much to have to listen to it's like being pulled over 🚔except no flashing lights which is equally annoying//🏳🏳🏳
I love it!! Thank you for enduring the music and continuing to watch the video. I will pay better attention to the music for future videos. The music on UA-cam studio is somewhat limited. Thank you for subscribing and leaving a comment...always appreciated.
Yeah so "expensive" #1 shingles, are all quartered and clear showing nothing but edge grain. That's what makes them stable. You cut a bunch of face grain. Probably fine for a shed no one will see but on a house it's all going to curl and look terrible. The only way to make shingles on a band saw that are of the same or superior quality to #1 shingles is to make them out of 1x quarter sawn clear cedar which is about $5.50 a linear foot or $8.25 a shingle for an 18" shingle. Multiplied by 20 is $165 and here we are at the same price for a bundle of #1 shingles. I really wouldn't be knocking the video at all but in your description you're talking about making expensive style cedar shingles and that's not what you're doing.
"Use first piece as jig" -- that's what I was missing. So simple, thank you!
Best video I've found on making shingles. Thanks
I’ve got piles of 4x12 drops from corbels and this video just gave me the go ahead to try and shake my gable on the fron porch. THANK YOU
Hi Joel! Thank you for watching this video and leaving such a nice comment, always appreciated! That's great that you can now repurpose your leftovers into something that adds value to your home. I wish you the best with that project 👍
BTW I was trying to make tiny shingles (e.g. out of 1x3) for a chicken coop. I don't have a bandsaw. Word of warning -- don't try this with a table saw. :-)
😅I can only imagine!! I did small shingles for a chicken coop as well. I found that scoring the shingle with a sharp utility knife was all that was needed...I was able to snap the shingle with not much force at all👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 you used normal sized shingles, and scored/snapped them? Trying to visualize how that turned out, without having shingles of very different thicknesses. I'm going for shingles that are about 1" x 3".
@@josh_m shingles that small might be too difficult to make with the scoring method. Maybe a handheld jigsaw would do the job.
You don't need to draw the angled line what you do is run the block against a outside fence but Shim out the block at one end from the fence so the block sets at angle. Because you're not cutting the fence side of the block you can shim out with a drywall screw to ride the fence.
I needed this exact video! Thanks for posting it!
Hi A.L. thanks so much for watching the video and leaving a comment... always appreciated 👍. Best wishes on your project!
I subbed because of the name of the channel😊 and stayed for the great work👍
Very nice. Do you stain them or treat them? Looking forward to the project that you use these on.
Thank you! You can leave them natural, stain them, or paint them. We will stain / seal them for walls on an outdoor kitchen ...stayed tuned👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 oh nice. Another one of your fun projects!!!
The problem that people don't realize is that historically they cut these things at a very specific angle in the wood - rather like quartering-- Because this process was more durable in the sun and rain over time.
Simply cutting these out means that they're going to warp and cup.
Great point, I'm thinking at the very least you need to cut them quarter sawn or rift. Plain sliced and they're not going to work.
I think you are referring to a froe and they hand split them tangent to the growth rings, as well as thick. Thick meaning one inch or better. White oak makes the best shakes……
😮 yasss! Ty!!
Making shims or shakes is a dangerous process. I make them both with a fixture that clamps the work piece and ensures my figures are as far away from the blade as they can be. I always use a sharp blade and take my time and never hurry in letting the blade do its job.
Why not split the wood, the good old fashion way?
They are more durable if they are split.
He just cut a bunch of face grain. They need to be clear and split so the edge grain is showing, that's what makes them stable. If you have a bunch of 3/4" clear cedar around you could mill high grade shingles but the per linear foot of 1x6 clear is $5.50 right now. I think you could sand them to a really nice finish and have an unbelievably nice looking roof but the cost is the same as #1 shingles plus the time to mill it.
Great video although the music🎶 is a bit much to have to listen to it's like being pulled over 🚔except no flashing lights which is equally annoying//🏳🏳🏳
I love it!! Thank you for enduring the music and continuing to watch the video. I will pay better attention to the music for future videos. The music on UA-cam studio is somewhat limited. Thank you for subscribing and leaving a comment...always appreciated.
@@YouCanDoIt2 I tried videoing something and found it a real challenge so my hats off to You for trying ~ all the best ~
Yeah so "expensive" #1 shingles, are all quartered and clear showing nothing but edge grain. That's what makes them stable. You cut a bunch of face grain. Probably fine for a shed no one will see but on a house it's all going to curl and look terrible. The only way to make shingles on a band saw that are of the same or superior quality to #1 shingles is to make them out of 1x quarter sawn clear cedar which is about $5.50 a linear foot or $8.25 a shingle for an 18" shingle. Multiplied by 20 is $165 and here we are at the same price for a bundle of #1 shingles.
I really wouldn't be knocking the video at all but in your description you're talking about making expensive style cedar shingles and that's not what you're doing.