Really cool jig. For your shim: if you cut dados the widths of the shim into the bottom board and increase the thickness of the shim by the depth of the dado, you can have a perfectly consistent thicknesses every time without having to fiddle with positioning.
Thanks for sharing your excellent ideas. I have a hydraulic mill, and the dog clamps would eventually crush the plywood edges. I'll use 2x material for the base, but will follow your design ideas. I also would like to be able to wedge in random widths... maybe some simple blocking would accomplish this. Actually, I find short logs difficult to stabilize on my mill. I think I'll put 4 of your modules on one base... maybe 8 ft long.
Everything that is was an idea first. Nice. One thing I might suggest is to mount a 3/4" thick face plate (2" x 3" or so) to the end of the spacer stick. When you are happy with its location, drill a 1/4" hole through the face plate and base and glue a dowel to the face plate. This will locate it in the same position every time. A second or third hole can be added for different thicknesses of shingle.
I started down that path and opted to just draw a line on the edge of the board to position the spacer in the same location each pass. I was shooting for “as simple as possible” great thoughts, thanks. Chuck
Really cool jig. For your shim: if you cut dados the widths of the shim into the bottom board and increase the thickness of the shim by the depth of the dado, you can have a perfectly consistent thicknesses every time without having to fiddle with positioning.
Thanks for sharing your excellent ideas. I have a hydraulic mill, and the dog clamps would eventually crush the plywood edges. I'll use 2x material for the base, but will follow your design ideas. I also would like to be able to wedge in random widths... maybe some simple blocking would accomplish this.
Actually, I find short logs difficult to stabilize on my mill. I think I'll put 4 of your modules on one base... maybe 8 ft long.
@@ThicknThinLumberCompany multiple jigs in line works well, the key is making sure they all stay stable while cutting. Thanks for watching.
Everything that is was an idea first. Nice. One thing I might suggest is to mount a 3/4" thick face plate (2" x 3" or so) to the end of the spacer stick. When you are happy with its location, drill a 1/4" hole through the face plate and base and glue a dowel to the face plate. This will locate it in the same position every time. A second or third hole can be added for different thicknesses of shingle.
I started down that path and opted to just draw a line on the edge of the board to position the spacer in the same location each pass. I was shooting for “as simple as possible” great thoughts, thanks.
Chuck