7.3 Powerstroke CHEAP Dipstick O-Ring Repair
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- This video describes in detail how you can repair the oring inside the oil pan on the back side of the dipstick tube on a 7.3 Powerstroke diesel. Parts you'll need are, 1 new oring, 1 new nut, some locktite, carburetor cleaner, and some RTV sealant. Thanks for watching!
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A great big "Thank You" to Darren W. Taylor for his creativity and his time in the production of this video.
Videos like this help the home gamer, Ford quoted me 4k to fix this issue, I got it done in an hour and it cost 50 bucks, thank you sir!
Thanks for the expert how to and for your clean vocabulary. I click out of videos all the time because people have no control over their tongues. It is appreciated. Also, thanks for no commercials.
Diaper Don has a foul mouth AGAIN! 💩💩💩
I just did this today and it worked!!! I used the cleaning brush that came with my Glock 23. The old nut on mine was warped. Thank god for this video. I was thinking I was going to need to drop the pan.
Thank you sir , you got right to the point without talking our ears off. I asked 2 different certified diesel shops about this issue. This is my first diesel truck. I've always been mechanically inclined but was a little nervous about messing with it on my own. Both shops told me it would be $1,500 to fix this issue . Having to Jack up the motor to remove the pan from the cradle. So again thank you. You saved me a lot of money. I'm subscribing .
Glad to help out! Thanks for the kind words.
Great video quickest and cheapest fix I've seen. But please to those watching 1 clean the area around that before opening anything up and 2, over tightening the flange nut will cause the oring to distort the flange on the inside causing a future failure.
Thank you for taking the time and energy to share your secret. Took me 2hrs to complete and problem solved. Much appreciated!
Just trying to help others as they have often helped me. Thanks for your comment!
You sir are a genius! I have been worried sick about that job. Now I don't have to pull the pan! Thank you!
International sells a kit with everything to fix it without removing the oil pan id look into that if you havent done it already.
I just completed the repair job on my truck, great video and step by step. Thank you for saving me $4000 at a Ford Dealership and possibly several hundred to a thousand at a local shop. Thanks again!
Thank you so much for this video, my uncle needs this very thing done and couldn't afford it, with your video now we can get it fixed, great job!!!!
I did this job but I had a rusted out pan.changed the pan in the truck.This is a great video nice job.I did the red locktite myself don’t think the permatatex was necessary at all.Great fix thanks for helping out 7.3 owners
Great video. I just purchased a 2002 f350 dually with 7.3 and mine is leaking bad. Im gonna try this, if it doesn't work then I'll go for the $300 billet part.
40 cal brush was a great idea thanks!
Just did it. Thanks. Used a gun bore brush with a string. I used a couple of tiny dabs of black RTV to hold the O ring and RTV under the the nut and on the threads.
I'm glad it helped out. Much easier than dropping the pan!
Bull's Automotive LLC do you have to drain the oil first?
@@Kyle-me4on yes
Bottle Brush is an awesome idea! Loktite 290, green, used with primer T or primer N will seal better then Red loktite. It may be applied after the nut is tightened.
Did leak for the 10 mi drive to work. Got in 5 hours later no leaks. Thank you
Use motorcraft ta-29 sealant on the inside and outside of washer, & on the threads of the nut. That will prevent nut from backing off all while sealing, everything. Red loctite is bad here. It doesn't seal worth a crap & you'll never get that nut off if it does start seeping oil there.
Thank you sir, I folded some bailing wire to hold the back side of the nut and it worked perfect
dam. that's a hack I can relate to lol My .50 cal brush is probably too big, thought I need a .40 cal .....or some bailing wire..
loctite is not needed, additional sealant is not needed. an oil resistant oring and a 2" service wrench is all you need. ford/navistar used crap orings everywhere on the 7.3. change them all to vitons and have a leak free 7.3
good to know! ty!
well shoot. that explains why diesel o rings is the name of a site with all the 7.3 bits i need lol only had mine since '14, so this was news to me about the o rings being crap. I think maybe some of my usual leak spots were already fixed
Ive done 6 of these. No leaks. No carb no clean simply pull the Oring install new Oring. Done. Good vid tho. Great visual.
My mechanic cleaned it up and put a nice little bead of jb weld around the outside and the inside. I could hardly tell he did it but it worked cost me $175. @ So Cal Truckworks, Riverside CA.
How has this method held up longevity wise? Anybody have any mileage or year counts without the same problem reoccurring?
I’m wondering if I should goes this route or simply let the old dipstick fall into the pan and install a aftermarket 150-300$ dipstick.
Thanks for this video!
I literally love you sir.
Me acabas de ahorrar mucho trabajo .lo intentaré como lo haces
This trick worked like a champ...
Great vid, great time to put a high spin high torque starter in too.
Ive used hemostats also to hold the inner peice.
There's two different notches that hold the adapter in place. Make sure you get it back in the right one or the dipstick wont line up properly. I found out the hard way.
I think imma just use disc brake cleaner and then J.B. Weld. Hahah nice job Sr.
Didn’t go locktite, spot welded the ring to the flange. Now let’s see the little bastard come loose
What size is the oring for the actual dipstick
awesome idea THANK YOU !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you, excellent video I am now Subscribed.
My God, F ford, they try take 4k from me. Mannnnnn thank you sir!!!!!!! I am now subscribed. And I love the 90s country music in the background. Great video.
Whats the part number for the o-ring?
I don't think I would spray that much carburetor cleaner into my oil pan. Surely it will break it down somewhat. If I did, I would change my oil soon. Otherwise, great video. Thanks.
it evaporates very quickly
You changing the stater new correct?
you'd of made a fantastic surgeon sir
Excellent video
Does all that carb cleaner in the oil pan not hurt anything?
We dropped the flange in the oil pan 4 hrs. Later of fishing with a wire we hooked it and brought it up to the hole,I was so mad at myself when it happened,I threw a wrench it bounced up and cracked windshield of the wife’s car 50 dollars for kit 300 dollars for windshield
That's why it doesn't pay to get mad lol
Adventure S98 everybody told me you can’t fish one of those inside flanges out but I did,but you’re right losing your temper doesn’t pay
@@tonyroulette6179 yeah that's awesome you got it fished out, great job man! I'm getting ready to replace the same on mine..
If it's any consolation, I just dropped mine inside also! I didn't get made I just thought "i'll just take off the oil pan" wrong-- going fishing tomorrow.
Likeitornotbut good luck buddy,I used a real powerful magnet,wire ,long forceps and whole lot of cuss words,if it’s an obs you don’t have to pull the cab ,to get the pan off ,to get the engine out,if you do have to pull the motor ,remember 7.3’s are extremely heavy,heavier than gas motors,you probably already know that.good luck ,be careful
Such a great video thanks
I once worked for an automotive seal company. I asked our Chemist which oil to use. He told me it did not matter much which brand of oil I use but do not mix them. He said all have an additive package that worked pretty well but if you mix them, some mixtures would ruin the seals. I wonder if that is what is happening to those o'rings...or if it is just poor quality o'rings.
Do you drain the oil beforehand?
You don't have to. I usually do so I minimize any mess.
Thanks ...great way to do this!
Great tip on the brush, but I'm gonna withhold the carb cleaner. If the o-ring seals dirty oil anyway, why clean it? Also, you can get it off with red loctite.
The o-ring seals oil. It won't hurt to have oil on it. C'mon man.
Just did the same....awesome vid
No need to use silicone or to clean. O-ring should be viton and is designed for oil.
What is part number on the orings part store telling me they cant get it
Oil dipstick gasket 7.3
2 1/2 od 1 5/8 id .031 thick
Inner oring F4TZ6753A
Flange nut F4TZ6751A
Ford usually has them in stock
Best example I've seen as to why you want to do your own automotive work and not take it to a "professional."
Hey friend. So ,,, I drop the piece in the pan. -_- if I didn't have bad luck I would have no luck. Is their any possible way of getting it out without jacking up the motor to remove the pan? I have an inspection camera . I was thinking of sticking it in the pan to find where it's at and maybe hooking it with a hanger.
I can't remember whether that piece is steel or not but one of those cheap flexible magnets from harbor freight might do the trick. The camera and hanger doesn't sound like a bad idea. Might let the oil drain real good so you can see it.
how did you fix this
Do I need to drain the oil whenever I spray the carb cleaner?
I do primarily because usually when these leak the filter gets neglected because folks always are just adding oil. As far as the carb cleaner goes, it's probably not enough to make any difference but thinning out the oil isn't good either whether it's thinned out with cleaner or fuel. I'd change oil and filter if it were me.
Awesome
Spray a bunch of dirt right into your oil pan where it can destroy your motor first, then worry about making everything oil free when it's in an oil environment. OEM replacement part is not rubber, it's Viton, and oil resistant.
That's what I was thinking. But it wouldn't hurt just to do it when you do an oil change
Why do you have to take the starter out and unhook the battery terminals?
Matthew Glazier I wanted all the room I can get. At my age I don't like fighting for space anymore plus we needed it out of the way for the video clarity
Because the starter is in your way. People disconnect their batteries to prevent sparks or shorting of your electronics. And honestly just plain common sense.
jb weld instant fix
Man what screwed up chiity chitty bang bang engineering feat. Ford couldn't come up with a design better than this?
It oughta be on the recall list...STUPID design. Wish I could see the reasoning behind it.
Actually, the engine is a Navistar (IH) design…
The old nut split in two the new nut acts like it to small
Archie Rainey the new nut I believe is machined a little small so it doesn't back out as easy
Anyone ever get a VITON o ring that won't swell up ?
I can't tell where on the truck you are working.
It's on the passenger side of the oil pan.
This was a very bad design to use the same part in a truck or van. Mine is damaged and won't seal for over a couple of years. I will probably make a steel overlay to tig on to the outside of the pan. If I pull the engine I certainly will.
Wes c, which part is damaged? The internal piece?
Add personal observation
Wouldn;t a Nitril o-ring be "forever"?
pat mccormick I'm not sure what the OEM replacement oring is made from but the oring isn't the cause of the failure, it's the nut backing off (or splitting completely) that gives room for the oring to jump out of the groove.
If the oring became soft it would appear that the nut became loose. But I have a feeling the nut remained in its exact place that it was tightened (and lock tighted ) as when it left the factory. Just an assumption though.
pat mccormick The nut on mine was warped.
Can I use an injector o ring here
I believe an injector o-ring would be too small if my memory serves correctly
Ok thank you
7.3 oil leak
With no lift....It looks like a whole lot of cussin' will be involved. 🤬🤬
(even with a lift)
Ohh, never thought about trying to do that on my back. That would suck!
Duuuude that wrench ain't big enough.
8.30 is funny.. out NO where. With any warning.. giant **ASK wrench** enter the video...
Oil will swell an o-ring.....after many years. Your 'warning' that the new one has to be installed dry so it doesn't swell up before you can assemble everything clearly shows your ignorance.
Give the guy a break no need in being nasty just over a video that could help someone. Plus if the oring had oil all over it you couldn't hold on to it.
It's not being nasty, it's correcting false information that someone else might think is true. This guy is making a huge deal about not getting oil on an O-ring when it's common practice to oil them to prevent damage during assembly. The carb clean residue and vapors are much more likely to cause damage to the O-ring than oil will. And no matter how clean one gets the parts, oil is going to get on the O-ring as soon as the engine is started so it's pointless to try to remove the oil from the parts. Then there's his use of the wrench. He's fighting with the open end where using the box end would have been a much better choice. And the red Loctite, also ridiculous.
@@DonziGT230 Still, no need to be an ass.
@@jackadamz3 Agreed.