Try using wheel bearing grease on drill tip when drilling and tapping it. put grease on the tip and go slow back and fourth so each time you take out the drill and the tap the old / bad threads will stick to the grease. been doing it this way forever and no worries. good video thanks
Thank you for the tip. I might need to drill on the Transmission, since partly stripped the Drain Hole there. It holds a new magnetic Plug I put the on ~11Ft-lbs, and torque required is 22 Ft-lbs. No leeks right now. I even don't know or to leave how it is, or it will develop leaks later, since the torque is 1/2 what is needed. I would appreciate if you could give your opinion on this matter. Thank you again.
@@olenaerhardt7725 Auto part stores make special bolts for this reason. they are made in a way to cut threads for you and at the same time as you tighten the bolt in all the way it resizes the hole. the new bolt you are using to cut it to size will end up being the new permanent bolt. if you want just use a little thread tape on it from now on each oil change it seems to stop it from leaking at all and holds it tightly in place. and stop taking you car to fast oil change places. they damage things to often.
@@NIGHTSTALKERsixsixsix Thank you! I ordered already the Oversized M14.1-1.5 for the case the new bolt won't hold. This is for the Transmission Fluid Drain Plug, so it won't be many changes in the future. actually it was the 1st change in the life of the car w/134 Kmi. I always change oil in all our cars myself and pretty precise person, I even don't know how I could do a mistake like that, just that torque wrench w/click, small Lexivon, and I didn't know it can continue to torque after it overcomes the setting you made on it. It was hard to see the scale on electronic torque I have, so I didn't find anything better than to use not well known to me TW. I completely lost from my thought that it is Transmission, Transmission, No Oil Pan here! Anyway, what is done is done. It was a very good lesson for me. Thank you also for that advice w/the plumber tape. If it will leak, I'll try that. This is our back up car, so not that important maybe. I just practice on it and replaced a lot of parts, and at the end this horrible mistake. Again, I really appreciate your time to write me and attention to my question. God Bless you, Sir!
oil shop stripped the oil pan thread on my dad's car. Instead of him spending several hundreds to replace the oil pan, I used JB weld to permanently seal around the drain bolt and bought an electric oil extract pump for $18. After several oil changes, and I think using the oil extractor is much cleaner and not as messy as draining oil. I also use the oil extractor on my car because of convenient. The oil flows much faster if you start the engine and let it runs for five minutes before extracting oil.
Problem with oil extractor is with high mileage vehicles. There is a possibility of tearing a seal. Very low chance but it has happened. I'm not a mechanic, just heard a mechanic I know who did this. Now that does mean that the seals were needing replaced anyways, but it was still operable before using the extractor.
I changed my transmission a year ago and the mechanic stripped out the plug, now the transmission clinic place wants to charge me $643.00 for a new pan, I will do this instead, thank you for the clear content!👍🏻
Just bought a 1998 Ford F150, it appeared to be in great shape, except for when the seller left, I moved the truck and there was a puddle of clean oil under it… yikes… stripped oil pan opening, your video was so concise and elementary, I’m going to do the job myself using the video as reference. Fantastic video!!!👍🏾
Thanks for this! I stripped out the threads on my fiance's '07 Mazda 5. I COMPLETELY removed the threads on the pan somehow, like they came out on the bolt. I'm not sure if someone messed with it in the past because I wasn't nearly as rough with it as I usually am on any other pan, but we're gonna see about tapping new threads before replacing the pan entirely
hey man, hope you see this message. I recently stripped the thread on my Prius by over fighting. It uses a m12 screw, do you think if I just use a m13 it’ll just create its new threads and be good as new? Or should I go the longer route and do what is shown in the video
Great and Concise video!! Very informative. Discovered that the oil plug is stripped on my new to me 93 Dodge van. I’m sure it was done by one of those quick oil change places. I won’t go near them.
Thanks for the info!! Check this out.... I bought a 2007 Honda Pilot with 101k miles from a Honda Dealership. A day later I noticed and oil drip out of the drain bolt. I tried to tighten the bolt but it was already stripped. Brought it back to the dealer and they apparently did what you are recommending. A few days later I noticed the leak again. Then I took matters into my own hands. Drove the truck up on some gorilla ramps removed the drain plug, drained the oil and inspected the hole. Would you believe the idiots at the dealership did your exact procedure but they did not put the insert in straight or far enough. So there was a slight lip protruding out on the bottom side of the hole. My solution was to ...file down the protruding piece so my drain bolt and washer would be flush against the opening. Results....NO MORE LEAK!! Moral of this story: NEVER TRUST A DEALERSHIP FOR WORK YOU YOUR VEHICLE ..... EVEN IF IT'S FREE!!! GREAT INFORMATIVE VIDEO. Also, I bet they did not vacuum out the pan like you, because I noticed metal shavings when I drained the oil!!!! OMG!!!
If you put grease on your tap you will catch your chips - you will have to pull out the tap once or twice to clean it up to clear the chips and redo the grease
Don't worry so much about the shavings in the pan. Most of them are tiny enough that the oil pump will handle them w/o any problems. A decent-quality oil filter will prevent any of them from getting to the engine. I wish I had known about those temporary plugs sooner..I could have driven the car while I was waiting for my threadsert kit to arrive.
I might have to do this soon. I partially stripped my oil pan but with a little silicon in the threads I was able to get it to torque to 29 ft. lbs as the spec calls for. No leaks so far but I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks for the vid.
@@Anthony-eg7pw hey man, hope you see this message. I recently stripped the thread on my Prius by over fighting. It uses a m12 screw, do you think if I just use a m13 it’ll just create its new threads and be good as new? Or should I go the longer route and do what is shown in the video
@@senorbonbonthis method is for reusing the same bolt lol, you don’t even need the inserts if you use a Amazon upsized drain plug, all You do is tap and insert plug instead of tap insert the heli coil and plug ontop
Once you've made new threads (2:17) why not just use a new plug that mates with those threads? In other words, perhaps you had an M14 x 1.5 and now you can go with either an M16 or M18 plug with that same thread pitch. Plus with a larger hole you'll be able to drain more oil from the pan.
Great DIY.. did it for my E60 M5. Drain plug has been slowly weeping for 4 years while always torquing it 18ftlbs and wondered why and it finally gave out. I had the shop vaccum and improvised nozzle on it during the whole process. Should have came like this from the factory. Installing a Fumoto valve next oil change. Back in business again making 610hp+ with a custom tune and E85..
You should have used a tap guide. The time-sert kits sold for an oil drain plug repair always include one. It is critical for the tap to start perpendicular to the surface the plug presses up against, otherwise the plug will leak. Also, no need to use Loctite. The plug is designed to remain in place.
Hi, If I used an oversized oil plug as a temp fix, should I grt a bigger diameter kit to install the insert? How do I know what size to get? The car came with an original M12 - 1.25 size plug. Thanks!!!
I would pour in Kerosene or Paint Thinner about 1 gallon to wash out the chips... Or use some compressed air going in the top and blowing out the bottom as I was working on the new hole. .... Yep, Great video and I would try this before a new pan.... cheaper way, just buy a drill and a tap of next bigger plug size, buy a bigger standard drain plug.
Life saver! I have a BMW that had the oil pan stripped by Firestone but they refuse to admit that. I called BMW and they said it'll cost $5000 to replace the whole oil pan.
just found this video as I believe I have a stripped oil pan. forgive my question, as I'm not mechanically inclined. After you drill and use the tap, are there not already threads? So why do you need the insert? Also, I don't have the tools or space to do this myself, will a shop do the thread repair, as the first one I went to wanted to replace the oil pan
@@danielwilliams9753 if you want to reuse the some size plug you use the insert. If not then you just need to get a bigger size plug. Some shops may not want to do it or they want to sell you a oil pan. On some cars oil pan is $80 and this may cost even more in labor and still may not be 100leak proof
Doing an oil change for the first time on my Acura. I found that the OEM 14x1.5mm is loose. I had to reuse the old drain plug. I didn't tighten it past 20 Ft lbs. I bought the car used for cheap. It runs smooth, but who knows how many quick lube places it's been to.
20 ftlbs ! THAT IS THE PROBLEM IN THE US ! Crappy garbage inch, pounds etc... Mechanics screw things up, garbage inch spanner instead of metric, confusing bolt and nuts (some UNF fit partially M5 and M8 ) torque , pressure specs etc...
@@clitisswood7330 I favor the metric system as well. The idea of 1-10 makes more sense than 1-12. The decimal system also makes more sense than the fractional system.
No need to try to vacuum any metal shavings out of the pan. The oil filter will catch all of the shavings. That's what the filter is for - to filter out crap like that. At your next oil change, you'll dispose of the old filter along with any shavings, and then you'll install a new filter. Easy-peasy.
if i have M12 hole damaged,and i want to make new threads M13 ,should i drill first or i just can make new threads directly in M12 hole ? if i need to bore from M12 to M13 what bore size should i use? thx
Great job. Help pls. How would you know what ‘new drain plug bolt’ to use after fixing the thread? Does the tool kit come with new drain plug bolt? What is the ‘name of the ‘tool kit’ and where do you get them? Thank you
@@onyxjabby6628 i was avle to fix this problem easy. i went to ebay and get an "oversize bolt" from ebay or Amazon. just make sure you know the size of your bolt. it worked for me for 2 years and has no problem till now.
Besides being able to use the correct size drain bolt instead of some oversized junk, you are installing a STEEL insert for that factory drain bolt. Should last a long time.
Straight to the point, and we’ll put together video… I’ll say one thing, your choice. But, just a suggestion, stay far, far, far away from Pennzoil, stuff is not good at all
I think this kit (M12) is to small for my application. Stripped oil plug hole on a Onan generator. Stripped out hole meassures 15.6mm (0.61 inch) depth is approximately 12.8mm (0.50 inch) Any idea on the right size kit for these meassurements?
Yeah, I got a bigger problem. Fixing a 2001 suski up I just got. I always change oil first thing when I get a new (old used) car. Try getting plug out..... Spins but won't come out. Obviously stripped but will not come out. Tried vice grips and pulling while turning. Still will not come out. Trying to figure something as temp. Solution. Can't think of anything but buy new oil pan.
Nice video thank you. That kit is really expensive though but nice reference point to start from. I was thinking of getting a fumoto valve for future. My car OEM valve is M14x 1.5, but could I just use a M15/M16 x1.5 thread tap and just use a M15/M16 bolt? It seems like a lot of effort to make the hole the same as it was just to use an original size plug. If I was to do it this cheap way, seems to me like it would work and all I'd need is to thread the hole to the wider size and therefore not even need to use a drill bit to take out the old thread? Makes sense in my head, can you see any issues with this plan? Many thanks
Hey man did you fix it doing this route?? I have a Prius It uses a m12 screw, do you think if I just use a m13 it’ll just create its new threads and be good as new? Or should I go the longer route and do what is shown in the video
Will this method work on Transmission (Aluminum) Drain Plug? See I stripped a bit that hole and probably the original bolt using a faulty torque wrench. It didn't click and continued to torque, then rotated once free, so I checked w/electronic one and it was 33 Ft-lbs instead of 22. Been mortified of course, I removed the plug, I hoped it was damaged rubber gasket that gave that single free rotation. I saw one 3/4 tiny circle ring came out of the hole though. Then I torqued it back w/electronic Torque Wrench to 22 Ft-lbs. But after I decided to put a new plug w/magnet I bought and received. So I removed the old plug again, and there was another tiny aluminum ring removed from the hole. The new plug was not going in. I put back the original, but was not able to torque it anymore, like on 11Ft-lbs it would rotate free. I removed it again, checked w/mirror, seemed like all the threads were in the hole in good condition, and put that new plug, it was tight 1st, but then went in. I hand tighten it, then snagged, and not sure what torque to apply now. From all the described above I conclude that the hole is slightly stripped. Maybe I'll be O'K if every time I remove the Plug I put a new one. Total mess I know, very upsetting mistake. If someone has any ideas please share. The film is very good. Thank you.
@@BulliKid Thank you. For right now I put a new plug and torqued it till 18.7 Ft-lbs. It doesn't leak (I mean w/remain fluid, I saw it always came off some, when I was messing up with different gaskets, plugging and unplugging. Hopefully it will hold when I add all ~5 qrt. The reason I wanted to have option to remove it, bcs I replaced CV Axle Joints, and maybe it won't last long, since I couldn't find OEM for that car, maybe it will leak. Of course it is not that often you need to unplug for that reason. I also wanted to replace the fluid 2-3 more times, like every 2 months or so, since that fluid was never changed before, and it would be good to flush everything out. For any chance I ordered also Oversized Plug 14.1-1.5, if it will leak at some point and Plumber Tape (some people advise) won't help. Thank you again.
Hey man, I know this video is 3 years old now but did this trick work out long-term for you? The place that changed my oil stripped the threads hard and I really don't want to replace my entire oil pan
Is there a different name for the seat cutter. Tried it on my bike without the seat cutter and it leaks oil. My drain plug is at an angle, and I didn’t get the angle perfect.
I did this 3-4 yrs ago to my 03 Sierra. Love the convenience but now I’m worried that I may not be getting any dirt out of the very bottom. I may be tapping and re-plugging soon.
I wished I could post a picture, but do you think this would be appropriate for the top of an engine block directly next to the cylinders? There is what's called a lower plenum that attaches to the block via six 10mm bolts. Two stripped and I was looking at the threads and pulled some out like in your video. I looked at the helicoil product but I'm really worried the heat will make that product brittle and break off in the future. Other people say it'll be just fine but this product seems a little more solid. I'm not sure which to go with. The helicoil is cheaper, much cheaper, but this one appears more solid. I don't know 🤷
Maybe I missed the step where you clean the oil from the newly cut threads before installing the insert coated with Red Loctite? After soaking up as much oil as one can I have seen folks use spray carb cleaner or similar solvent. I would do this multiple times to try and insure a better bond.
The tap kit they sell out here doesn't have a drill with 4 corners to drill by hand with a wrench, they pretty much expect everyone to use a machine, I don't know how they expect any same person to ever use a machine on an aluminium pan that just got stripped, I didn't even use a machine when I stripped it, how much more when I'm fixing it? smh.
@@Itsjake908 People like yourself give a bad name to Trump Supporters. I suppose that you like engine oil and transmission fluid in your drinking water and rivers ?
@@empiresrikesfat eh I haven’t done it yet I got this sealing tape and it’s seeming to hold up pretty well if it leaks I just count how many times I went around the bolt and do a extra I’ll eventually do this though
Nice job with the repair and I am not dissing by any means. However, for the cost of this kit you can almost buy a new pan. Or a used one which I spent $35 bucks on.
Make sure you get the correct kit for your oil pan. On cheaper tin oil pans, its best just to replace them. I remember the Ford Tempo oil pans would actually rust out. Imagine dealing with a rotted out oil pan in a hotel parking lot!
hey man, hope you see this message. I recently stripped the thread on my Prius by over fighting. It uses a m12 screw, do you think if I just use a m13 it’ll just create its new threads and be good as new? Or should I go the longer route and do what is shown in the video
@senorbonbon That's your call. At this point, you cannot screw it up any more than it is. If the 13mm doesn't work, then you get to face the music. Make sure the length is the same as the original. I am not aware of a self taping 13mm but if you can get one, go that route.
It's great to know how to do this but it does seem like a lot of work to me. Where I live the cheapest new oil pan and gasket costs about the same as a thread repair kit and it would be a lot less work.
Has to be the most well put together and condensed video with exactly how this is done! Thank you!
Thanks for the positive comment!
Try using wheel bearing grease on drill tip when drilling and tapping it. put grease on the tip and go slow back and fourth so each time you take out the drill and the tap the old / bad threads will stick to the grease. been doing it this way forever and no worries. good video thanks
Thanks!
Thank you for the tip. I might need to drill on the Transmission, since partly stripped the Drain Hole there. It holds a new magnetic Plug I put the on ~11Ft-lbs, and torque required is 22 Ft-lbs. No leeks right now. I even don't know or to leave how it is, or it will develop leaks later, since the torque is 1/2 what is needed. I would appreciate if you could give your opinion on this matter. Thank you again.
@@olenaerhardt7725 Auto part stores make special bolts for this reason. they are made in a way to cut threads for you and at the same time as you tighten the bolt in all the way it resizes the hole. the new bolt you are using to cut it to size will end up being the new permanent bolt. if you want just use a little thread tape on it from now on each oil change it seems to stop it from leaking at all and holds it tightly in place. and stop taking you car to fast oil change places. they damage things to often.
@@NIGHTSTALKERsixsixsix Thank you! I ordered already the Oversized M14.1-1.5 for the case the new bolt won't hold. This is for the Transmission Fluid Drain Plug, so it won't be many changes in the future. actually it was the 1st change in the life of the car w/134 Kmi. I always change oil in all our cars myself and pretty precise person, I even don't know how I could do a mistake like that, just that torque wrench w/click, small Lexivon, and I didn't know it can continue to torque after it overcomes the setting you made on it. It was hard to see the scale on electronic torque I have, so I didn't find anything better than to use not well known to me TW. I completely lost from my thought that it is Transmission, Transmission, No Oil Pan here! Anyway, what is done is done. It was a very good lesson for me. Thank you also for that advice w/the plumber tape. If it will leak, I'll try that. This is our back up car, so not that important maybe. I just practice on it and replaced a lot of parts, and at the end this horrible mistake. Again, I really appreciate your time to write me and attention to my question. God Bless you, Sir!
@@olenaerhardt7725 great news take care.
oil shop stripped the oil pan thread on my dad's car. Instead of him spending several hundreds to replace the oil pan, I used JB weld to permanently seal around the drain bolt and bought an electric oil extract pump for $18. After several oil changes, and I think using the oil extractor is much cleaner and not as messy as draining oil. I also use the oil extractor on my car because of convenient. The oil flows much faster if you start the engine and let it runs for five minutes before extracting oil.
I might have to do this
Question,where are you putting the suction hose,I have the same situation,Thanks
@@victorwisener9986 through the dip stick.
I always change oil when the oil is hot!!!!
Problem with oil extractor is with high mileage vehicles. There is a possibility of tearing a seal. Very low chance but it has happened. I'm not a mechanic, just heard a mechanic I know who did this. Now that does mean that the seals were needing replaced anyways, but it was still operable before using the extractor.
I changed my transmission a year ago and the mechanic stripped out the plug, now the transmission clinic place wants to charge me $643.00 for a new pan, I will do this instead, thank you for the clear content!👍🏻
Valerio Romero no problem! Glad I can help! Like the video to show support! It was a lot of work
I would get one from a salvage yard. Many places will even pull the part for you.
Please let us know how well this worked out for you!
Great video, very easy to follow. Stripped a Bobcat CT235 tractor oil pan, but this was exactly the same process. Love the little vacuum hack too.
Thanks for the comment!
How'd you do the vacuum hack?
Please tell how you did this lol
How did you create the vacuum tool? Was it a straw or something?
Just bought a 1998 Ford F150, it appeared to be in great shape, except for when the seller left, I moved the truck and there was a puddle of clean oil under it… yikes… stripped oil pan opening, your video was so concise and elementary, I’m going to do the job myself using the video as reference. Fantastic video!!!👍🏾
Did you fix it? Currently I'm in the same boat with my 2001 f 150
Thanks for this!
I stripped out the threads on my fiance's '07 Mazda 5. I COMPLETELY removed the threads on the pan somehow, like they came out on the bolt. I'm not sure if someone messed with it in the past because I wasn't nearly as rough with it as I usually am on any other pan, but we're gonna see about tapping new threads before replacing the pan entirely
hey man, hope you see this message. I recently stripped the thread on my Prius by over fighting. It uses a m12 screw, do you think if I just use a m13 it’ll just create its new threads and be good as new? Or should I go the longer route and do what is shown in the video
Great and Concise video!! Very informative. Discovered that the oil plug is stripped on my new to me 93 Dodge van. I’m sure it was done by one of those quick oil change places. I won’t go near them.
Thanks for the info!! Check this out.... I bought a 2007 Honda Pilot with 101k miles from a Honda Dealership. A day later I noticed and oil drip out of the drain bolt. I tried to tighten the bolt but it was already stripped. Brought it back to the dealer and they apparently did what you are recommending. A few days later I noticed the leak again. Then I took matters into my own hands. Drove the truck up on some gorilla ramps removed the drain plug, drained the oil and inspected the hole. Would you believe the idiots at the dealership did your exact procedure but they did not put the insert in straight or far enough. So there was a slight lip protruding out on the bottom side of the hole. My solution was to ...file down the protruding piece so my drain bolt and washer would be flush against the opening. Results....NO MORE LEAK!! Moral of this story: NEVER TRUST A DEALERSHIP FOR WORK YOU YOUR VEHICLE ..... EVEN IF IT'S FREE!!! GREAT INFORMATIVE VIDEO. Also, I bet they did not vacuum out the pan like you, because I noticed metal shavings when I drained the oil!!!! OMG!!!
Thanks for the comment. Glad you were able to figure it out. Good job! I never trust the dealership. They are a different human kind.
If you put grease on your tap you will catch your chips - you will have to pull out the tap once or twice to clean it up to clear the chips and redo the grease
JT H thanks boss
What type of grease are you talking about to catch the shavings
You don't have to worry too much about particals. Anything that size is picked up by sump or pickup strainer
Don't worry so much about the shavings in the pan.
Most of them are tiny enough that the oil pump will handle them w/o any problems.
A decent-quality oil filter will prevent any of them from getting to the engine.
I wish I had known about those temporary plugs sooner..I could have driven the car while I was waiting for my threadsert kit to arrive.
I might have to do this soon. I partially stripped my oil pan but with a little silicon in the threads I was able to get it to torque to 29 ft. lbs as the spec calls for. No leaks so far but I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks for the vid.
Did you use the same bolt? Or did you go a size up and add silicone?
@@Anthony-eg7pw hey man, hope you see this message. I recently stripped the thread on my Prius by over fighting. It uses a m12 screw, do you think if I just use a m13 it’ll just create its new threads and be good as new? Or should I go the longer route and do what is shown in the video
@@senorbonbonyou should cut new threads in with one of these kits. You could end up making it worse
@@senorbonbonthis method is for reusing the same bolt lol, you don’t even need the inserts if you use a Amazon upsized drain plug, all
You do is tap and insert plug instead of tap insert the heli coil and plug ontop
lol your torquing oil drain plugs ? That’s the first 😂 that torque spec is for brand new oil drain plugs and not old stretched ones lol
Very clear instructions. I was never really sure how they worked.
Thank you for the feedback!
Once you've made new threads (2:17) why not just use a new plug that mates with those threads? In other words, perhaps you had an M14 x 1.5 and now you can go with either an M16 or M18 plug with that same thread pitch. Plus with a larger hole you'll be able to drain more oil from the pan.
@@thecarman3693 you could do that in this case I guess we wanted to retain the original plug size
99 Tahoe fixing this week thanks to you.
Goodluck!!
Great DIY.. did it for my E60 M5. Drain plug has been slowly weeping for 4 years while always torquing it 18ftlbs and wondered why and it finally gave out. I had the shop vaccum and improvised nozzle on it during the whole process. Should have came like this from the factory. Installing a Fumoto valve next oil change. Back in business again making 610hp+ with a custom tune and E85..
That’s a lot of power!!! Forced injection or na??
@@BulliKid Its an n/a V10 with headers, custom dyno tune, and E85 (108 octane).
Best sounding bmw !!!
I heard they have premature bearing wear?!
My buddy has 335 xi 550awhp it’s a ripper. Have the video on my page. Check it out
@@BulliKid as most if not all s65 and s85 engines, it is good practice to replace rod bearings at 80k miles.. not a big deal, gotta pay to play.
Did you install a Fumoto Valve? I was thinking of putting one in at my next oil change. I'm using a helicoil right now.
You should have used a tap guide. The time-sert kits sold for an oil drain plug repair always include one. It is critical for the tap to start perpendicular to the surface the plug presses up against, otherwise the plug will leak. Also, no need to use Loctite. The plug is designed to remain in place.
Hi, If I used an oversized oil plug as a temp fix, should I grt a bigger diameter kit to install the insert? How do I know what size to get? The car came with an original M12 - 1.25 size plug. Thanks!!!
I would pour in Kerosene or Paint Thinner about 1 gallon to wash out the chips... Or use some compressed air going in the top and blowing out the bottom as I was working on the new hole. .... Yep, Great video and I would try this before a new pan.... cheaper way, just buy a drill and a tap of next bigger plug size, buy a bigger standard drain plug.
Life saver! I have a BMW that had the oil pan stripped by Firestone but they refuse to admit that. I called BMW and they said it'll cost $5000 to replace the whole oil pan.
That’s crazy!!!
@BulliKid definitely subscribing
@@fuexiong88 thanks !!
Still got the car? How's it holding up
Yes I do. No issues to this day.
just found this video as I believe I have a stripped oil pan. forgive my question, as I'm not mechanically inclined. After you drill and use the tap, are there not already threads? So why do you need the insert? Also, I don't have the tools or space to do this myself, will a shop do the thread repair, as the first one I went to wanted to replace the oil pan
@@danielwilliams9753 if you want to reuse the some size plug you use the insert. If not then you just need to get a bigger size plug. Some shops may not want to do it or they want to sell you a oil pan. On some cars oil pan is $80 and this may cost even more in labor and still may not be 100leak proof
Doing an oil change for the first time on my Acura. I found that the OEM 14x1.5mm is loose. I had to reuse the old drain plug. I didn't tighten it past 20 Ft lbs. I bought the car used for cheap. It runs smooth, but who knows how many quick lube places it's been to.
20 ftlbs ! THAT IS THE PROBLEM IN THE US ! Crappy garbage inch, pounds etc... Mechanics screw things up, garbage inch spanner instead of metric, confusing bolt and nuts (some UNF fit partially M5 and M8 ) torque , pressure specs etc...
@@clitisswood7330 I favor the metric system as well. The idea of 1-10 makes more sense than 1-12. The decimal system also makes more sense than the fractional system.
you're a life saver! just did this on my motorcycle
Awesome! Thanks for watching. Sub for support.
@kadengolda2373 did this fix give you any problems later on the motorcycle? I was planning to do it on my Kawasaki Z800
I missed where you got this kit from. Please tell me. Thanks 😮
No need to try to vacuum any metal shavings out of the pan. The oil filter will catch all of the shavings. That's what the filter is for - to filter out crap like that. At your next oil change, you'll dispose of the old filter along with any shavings, and then you'll install a new filter. Easy-peasy.
if i have M12 hole damaged,and i want to make new threads M13 ,should i drill first or i just can make new threads directly in M12 hole ? if i need to bore from M12 to M13 what bore size should i use? thx
5:52 No crush washer?
If my oil plug is m14-1.5 17mm. Should my kit also be a m14-1.5?
Beautiful, well done good job
Thank you! Cheers!
Is this the same as what they call a " Healy Coil" in the mid 1970's ?
Thanks for your video 👍
Great job.
Help pls. How would you know what ‘new drain plug bolt’ to use after fixing the thread?
Does the tool kit come with new drain plug bolt?
What is the ‘name of the ‘tool kit’ and where do you get them? Thank you
You ever get an answer for this?
@@onyxjabby6628
i was avle to fix this problem easy.
i went to ebay and get an "oversize bolt" from ebay or Amazon.
just make sure you know the size of your bolt.
it worked for me for 2 years and has no problem till now.
I don't understand why you would need a helicoil if you drill and tap, you should be good to go with a larger plug.
To reuse the same plug size
Besides being able to use the correct size drain bolt instead of some oversized junk, you are installing a STEEL insert for that factory drain bolt. Should last a long time.
My thoughts as well
What size drill bit, and Time Sert kit is needed for a 2004 Electra Glide oil pan plug?
Does this procedure require taking your shirt off? If so, this is the best solution by far.
Depends on the climate you are in lol
That all depends how sexy you’re feeling at that specific moment! 🙂
Yes, crawling around under a car on hot pavement or especially gravel with no shirt makes you more of a man, didnt you know?
@@charlieduran9976 Like frying with hot oil huh? My friend ended up with huge blisters on his stomach being stupid like that.
Is that kit the same size as the size of the bolt? I got the same size for mine but it looks the bolt is not tight on the inserts when I just test it.
Straight to the point, and we’ll put together video… I’ll say one thing, your choice. But, just a suggestion, stay far, far, far away from Pennzoil, stuff is not good at all
I love Pennzoil! Why do you say it’s not good.
I think this kit (M12) is to small for my application. Stripped oil plug hole on a Onan generator. Stripped out hole meassures 15.6mm (0.61 inch) depth is approximately 12.8mm (0.50 inch) Any idea on the right size kit for these meassurements?
So if my plug is m14 1.5. Timesert will be the same size right? Or do I need bigger size?? Great video though!
You will drill bigger hole to still adapt and use the same oem plug size.
So If mine were to be an m14 1/2 what size would i need to use to repair it
Where’d you get that vacuum? I need to do that to mine but my oil drain plug is on the bottom not the side.
you dont need the insert, simply put in the matching drain plug in the hole you just tapped.
this is true! i didnt know much about this at the time! And i just wanted to reuse the same drain bolt! Thanks for the tip
!
It'll strip out again.put the insert in and be done with it
@@BulliKid but the aluminum will gall again on the new plug and you have to do it again.
@@pbc1951 What causes the galling?
It will be bigger
Yeah, I got a bigger problem. Fixing a 2001 suski up I just got. I always change oil first thing when I get a new (old used) car. Try getting plug out..... Spins but won't come out. Obviously stripped but will not come out. Tried vice grips and pulling while turning. Still will not come out. Trying to figure something as temp. Solution. Can't think of anything but buy new oil pan.
Can you drill it out.
Nice video thank you. That kit is really expensive though but nice reference point to start from. I was thinking of getting a fumoto valve for future. My car OEM valve is M14x 1.5, but could I just use a M15/M16 x1.5 thread tap and just use a M15/M16 bolt? It seems like a lot of effort to make the hole the same as it was just to use an original size plug. If I was to do it this cheap way, seems to me like it would work and all I'd need is to thread the hole to the wider size and therefore not even need to use a drill bit to take out the old thread? Makes sense in my head, can you see any issues with this plan? Many thanks
Thanks for the comment. Yes your method works too.
Kit is $37 on Amazon
Hey man did you fix it doing this route?? I have a Prius It uses a m12 screw, do you think if I just use a m13 it’ll just create its new threads and be good as new? Or should I go the longer route and do what is shown in the video
Hey thanks man for this video i need this. My gear oil of my motorcycle screw is stripped need to do this . It help now to do the action
TM's Homeboxing great! Thanks for the comment I appreciate you watching and glad I can help. Subscribe to support thanks
Putting grease on any tap will help contain or trap shavings.
Good advice! Thanks
For the tap and dye process do you have to move up a size in drain plug? Or does the process make or so you can use the same drain plug?
This process is to use same size plug.
Will this method work on Transmission (Aluminum) Drain Plug? See I stripped a bit that hole and probably the original bolt using a faulty torque wrench. It didn't click and continued to torque, then rotated once free, so I checked w/electronic one and it was 33 Ft-lbs instead of 22. Been mortified of course, I removed the plug, I hoped it was damaged rubber gasket that gave that single free rotation. I saw one 3/4 tiny circle ring came out of the hole though. Then I torqued it back w/electronic Torque Wrench to 22 Ft-lbs. But after I decided to put a new plug w/magnet I bought and received. So I removed the old plug again, and there was another tiny aluminum ring removed from the hole. The new plug was not going in. I put back the original, but was not able to torque it anymore, like on 11Ft-lbs it would rotate free. I removed it again, checked w/mirror, seemed like all the threads were in the hole in good condition, and put that new plug, it was tight 1st, but then went in. I hand tighten it, then snagged, and not sure what torque to apply now. From all the described above I conclude that the hole is slightly stripped. Maybe I'll be O'K if every time I remove the Plug I put a new one. Total mess I know, very upsetting mistake. If someone has any ideas please share. The film is very good. Thank you.
Well with trans fluid since you don’t change it often I think you can get away with it for many years to come as long as it’s not leaking.
@@BulliKid Thank you. For right now I put a new plug and torqued it till 18.7 Ft-lbs. It doesn't leak (I mean w/remain fluid, I saw it always came off some, when I was messing up with different gaskets, plugging and unplugging. Hopefully it will hold when I add all ~5 qrt. The reason I wanted to have option to remove it, bcs I replaced CV Axle Joints, and maybe it won't last long, since I couldn't find OEM for that car, maybe it will leak. Of course it is not that often you need to unplug for that reason. I also wanted to replace the fluid 2-3 more times, like every 2 months or so, since that fluid was never changed before, and it would be good to flush everything out. For any chance I ordered also Oversized Plug 14.1-1.5, if it will leak at some point and Plumber Tape (some people advise) won't help. Thank you again.
Leave your oil drain plug off and pour oil thru to push extra shaving out
That stick a magnet in there like the extendable ones since most oil pans are aluminum or at least the ones that mostly strip do.
Luis Perea Aluminum isn’t magnetic .-.
No need to dill it, just tap it a size up & use a bigger sump plug
Hey man, I know this video is 3 years old now but did this trick work out long-term for you? The place that changed my oil stripped the threads hard and I really don't want to replace my entire oil pan
Yes it is working good never had a problem
I have a jeep liberty 2004 the timing chain cover radiator pressure screw is strip
Is there a different name for the seat cutter. Tried it on my bike without the seat cutter and it leaks oil. My drain plug is at an angle, and I didn’t get the angle perfect.
How did u get the bolt out mine keeps spinning
Ecoplug it in seconds
Never deal with threads again!
Great comment! Thanks
I did this 3-4 yrs ago to my 03 Sierra. Love the convenience but now I’m worried that I may not be getting any dirt out of the very bottom. I may be tapping and re-plugging soon.
Great job 👍🏻. I hope I never have to use this tutorial for myself :)
Hahhhah I hope not too. It’s a pain!!!
I would say so ! :)
Have done it works perfectly fine saved me a lot of money did it on a BMW e90 320i
Sweet!
Hey. Just a question. Did you use the original thread size again?
Yes
So i stripped a bolt that was an m12- 1.25. Should i get the tap kit same size or go up to m13- 1.25?
@@Dub_yuh_leader either one will work. Totally up to you. I like to retain same size
I wished I could post a picture, but do you think this would be appropriate for the top of an engine block directly next to the cylinders? There is what's called a lower plenum that attaches to the block via six 10mm bolts. Two stripped and I was looking at the threads and pulled some out like in your video. I looked at the helicoil product but I'm really worried the heat will make that product brittle and break off in the future. Other people say it'll be just fine but this product seems a little more solid. I'm not sure which to go with. The helicoil is cheaper, much cheaper, but this one appears more solid. I don't know 🤷
Michael Enochs hmmm I would go with the cheaper alternative. Because I’m a budget person.
How do I figure out what size I need? I’m using this for a quad oil pan. The drain plug is 17mm
Good question. There must be guides online that give you a recommended drill size based on the tap you will use.
Maybe I missed the step where you clean the oil from the newly cut threads before installing the insert coated with Red Loctite? After soaking up as much oil as one can I have seen folks use spray carb cleaner or similar solvent. I would do this multiple times to try and insure a better bond.
The bond probably won’t be the best but I have had no issues since this installation. No leaks.
Excellent video. Thank you!
Hey thank you
I stripped out a 2014 Kawasaki brute force I’ll be trying this soon
Goodluck!
Best video homie, on this work.
Thanks
Any idea what appropriate size tool kit for 2007 BMW X5 oil pan? Is the tool kit Universal?
I’m not sure on sizes for your application.
oh yeah... this takes a huge dump on the changing oil pan option. thanks bro
Thanks
Great vid and photos!
Nice thorough job.
Thank you! Hope it helps the community!
Where did you get the kit? autozone and orileys dont have complete kits with everything that you have.
link in description
The tap kit they sell out here doesn't have a drill with 4 corners to drill by hand with a wrench, they pretty much expect everyone to use a machine, I don't know how they expect any same person to ever use a machine on an aluminium pan that just got stripped, I didn't even use a machine when I stripped it, how much more when I'm fixing it? smh.
Good job where did you buy the Thread Tap Kit...?
You can buy online. This kit was my neighbors. He is a mechanic.
Is the seat cuter also called a counter bore
To be honest I am not sure.
Why drill it out first, I'm confused as some video I've seen theybjust tap it
@@johndicesare3871 to keep the same bolt size
How do you remove the temp plug if you decide to take it out?
You don’t remove the inner shell.
Do you think this would work for a transmission fluid fill hole where I ruined the threads?
Steven F yes same concept. Just more expensive fluid
great idea if you're regularly stripping oil pans but that kit costs as much as a new pan for me, nonetheless good vid lol
Thanks boss.
Can I use this kit with my 2011 chevy Silverado 1500 with m12 x 1.75 bolt size?
Or I have to buy the kit m12 x 1.75? Because the one you put in the link is m12 x 1.50
I’m not sure you should get a kit for your thread and pitch
@@BulliKid thank you so much!
Why did you not remove the oil pan to remove any debris?
Complicated removal.
Damn shop strip my pan hope this works. I called them & went berserk because I worked in a shop 8 yrs. Oil change 101 don't over tighten the bolt smh.
Hey how did you remove the bolt when the thread stripped? Mine just keeps spinning and spinning.
Mine came out no problem. You have a bigger issue.
@@BulliKid yikes 😅
@@BulliKid any advice on what I should do?
Crab the head with vice grips. It should be able to pull back since the treads are already stripped
@@BulliKid no go but thanks anyways 👍🏽
I went with option 2. There's still a small drip like a sink faucet. Is this concerning or is a drip ok?
Concerning. And bad for environment.
BULLI KID
Fuck off with the environment bullshit
#Trump2020
@@Itsjake908 People like yourself give a bad name to Trump Supporters. I suppose that you like engine oil and transmission fluid in your drinking water and rivers ?
What kit is used for a 06 BMW 525xi?
You have to look into it. I wouldn’t know.
I have a mazda 3. Where can I find a kit for my car?
Kits are universal so look on Amazon eBay
Still the same size thread?
it can be depends how you match it. this is smaller thread.
Always use a torque wrench. 🔧 Don’t be a lazy mechanic like everybody else. Check the torque value for your car.
Where did you get the kit
O'Reilly's rentals
Where do you buy the kit?
You can buy them online
nice work dude
Thank you!
Did you tighten the thread convertor at last or what is it called as?
Shriyansh Mishra I’m not sure if I understand your question
good job...
Thanks!
Very informative thanks awesome job
Thanks appreciate the comment
I have the same problem. Local mechanics don't know to do. So frustrating.
You would think they would know...well hopefully this guide gives you confidence to tackle it yourself
@@BulliKid I had to change my oil pan yesterday coz they couldn't fix the thread. Cost me $126
Hey at least it’s over and done. And if you want you can still try to experiment with the old one.
I need to do this on my Ktm 85 do you think I could do it without having to take the motor off?
Im not sure What a ktm 85 even is
@@BulliKid It’s a two stroke dirt bike lol
Thou can do the same thing but I’m not sure if you have to take the motor out. If you have access to the drain plug then no
@@steadygwap7470 how you do with your KTM?
@@empiresrikesfat eh I haven’t done it yet I got this sealing tape and it’s seeming to hold up pretty well if it leaks I just count how many times I went around the bolt and do a extra I’ll eventually do this though
Very helpful! Thanks
No problem!
Nice job with the repair and I am not dissing by any means. However, for the cost of this kit you can almost buy a new pan. Or a used one which I spent $35 bucks on.
Yea it all depends on your make and model and what makes the most sense.
Remove the oil pan and clean that up, too! Would make everything easier
Ideally that’s what I should have done but I was on a time crunch.
@@BulliKid understood
Make sure you get the correct kit for your oil pan. On cheaper tin oil pans, its best just to replace them. I remember the Ford Tempo oil pans would actually rust out. Imagine dealing with a rotted out oil pan in a hotel parking lot!
Yea I’m having issues with a rusted trans pan on one car.
hey man, hope you see this message. I recently stripped the thread on my Prius by over fighting. It uses a m12 screw, do you think if I just use a m13 it’ll just create its new threads and be good as new? Or should I go the longer route and do what is shown in the video
@senorbonbon That's your call. At this point, you cannot screw it up any more than it is. If the 13mm doesn't work, then you get to face the music. Make sure the length is the same as the original. I am not aware of a self taping 13mm but if you can get one, go that route.
*is this oversizing?*
i would think not because the thread is the same specs as original bolt.
It's great to know how to do this but it does seem like a lot of work to me. Where I live the cheapest new oil pan and gasket costs about the same as a thread repair kit and it would be a lot less work.
All depends on the cost of parts and how easy the oil pan comes off.
Depends of the car. On mine you can't remove the oil pan without disassembling sub-frame (or something else big), and so it's a 600€ job.