Hey man. Just used these two videos to rebuild my fuel bowl today, and they were invaluable. Thank you, sir. There were a couple of differences. My drain valve didn't have that check ball in the cap and it didn't have a heater in the bowl. Not concerned with the check ball, but the lack of a fuel heater peaked my interest. Anyway... Will be reinstalling it tomorrow morning as well as replacing the HPOP lines. That SHOULD get the truck running (wasn't running when I bought it). Looks like the previous owner half-assed all the repairs he attempted. Will let everyone know how it went when I post the video of reinstalling everything. Again, thanks for these two great videos. You saved me a lot of time and headaches.
Mine didn't seem to have the check ball in the drain stem either...I was afraid I launched it across the garage. Gonna put it back together without and hope for the best I guess.
I’ve had the kit on the shelf and I’ve been putting this project off for months because It was daunting and I didn’t know how to do it, but this video (and part 2) made it super easy. Great video man.
I did this rebuild about a year ago on my 1996 F350. Your video would have made it much simpler. Your explanation is very easy to follow, detailed, and concise. A friend of mine just had a problem that a mechanic diagnosed as the fuel pressure regulator. They replaced the entire fuel bowl assembly rather than just repair the pressure regulator, about $350 parts charge.
Living on Wheels,... Your videos are the BEST, on the 7.3L engines and Ford trucks, I have seen on the web!! I really appreciate your attention to detail, your explanations and documentation of every step... I am a log time "Shade tree mechanic" working on Model A's to the Gullwing Mercedes Benz. I, like you, LOVE my 7.3L because of it's reliability and design... Though I hate how loud it is! With 319,000 miles on my "Beast", I wouldn't trade it for anything else. Thank you for all you do for us. Every one of your videos is of importance in helping us keep our Beasts going. From Texas to Oregon, Thank you
Awesome video. I have been fighting fuel pump secondary circuit low issues for months. I order a new fuel filter housing for a last ditch effort to get this issue fixed. Makes me wonder now if the fuel pressure regulator isn't my problem. But perfect video. Great description of things and how to. Thanks
Thanks for the help. As of now, my trusty 7.3 doesn't need this work, but I'm building a playlist for when the time comes to wrench on it again. More videos like this!
thanks buddy for this video, i was just planning on doing this bowl reseal on my 7.3, she started leaking, i thought it was an oil leak from the HPOP but it looks like the bowl valve. ill be doing this along with other few mods from Riff Raff, this should be exciting!!!
Thanks man was really hoping somebody had a video on here and yours was great mine is definitely leaking from the drain valve got the kit from riffraff last night
I had a leaking fuel drain. I was told that the new diesel fuel eats the o-rings. I found a replacement O-ring on eBay that is made out of material that is less effected by the new fuel . I replaced the 0-ring and have not had any more problems for the last 7 years.
Question. I live in an area that gets very very cold in the winter. Will deleting the fuel bowl with those temperatures effect performance in the winter months? I don't see how that system heats the fuel?
Since i last spoke with you….you recommended to unplug my exhaust back pressure value and it fixed my problem. Do i need to worry about the pedal still value or seal, turbo…i have 141k and was my father in laws truck which barely ever left the farm
Hey living on wheels, First I'd like to just say I really enjoy you videos, for they are very helpful. I do have a question relating on this topic, for I just rebuilt my fuel bowl, and I don't expect you to have an answer, but out of all the videos on this subject, I find your tutorial most helpful. The old crush gaskets that attach from the fuel lines to the fuel bowl are still stuck inside the brass nut that sleeves over the fuel line, would you have any recommendations on getting those out? I don't know if you ever encountered that problem, but I don't think I can just put the new crush gaskets on with the old ones still inside the brass nut. I appreciate any advise, and keep doing what your doing, your an inspiration for many, and thanks again.
I am glad the videos are helpful. Thank you for watching them. I think you are referring to the Viton o-rings. I dont have any magical tips. My best advice is just using a pic tool or small screw driver. I was usually able to just pull the nut back over the fuel line and the viton seal staid in place. And no, you definitely don't want to try and seal it up with the old pieces still inside the nut.
@Living On Wheels Thank you for your response, I will try that out tomorrow. Side note... as a finish carpenter/cabinet builder, I just want to say good job on trimming out your windows with the old growth, vertical grain, dug fir. Your 100 percent right, one will never find that grade of material in a lumber yard today. Your giving that tree a third life. Yeah... it might be a pain to pull the nails, and mill the material again, but in the end, it's tottaly worth it. Again... your an inspiration.
That is a big blue wrench you used. Funny. I once had to replaced the two oil rings to the yellow water drain valve. I did it with the fuel bowel in the truck. It took a half-hour. In 20 years this was only issue with fuel bowel. I think the fuel bowel is working as it was designed to. Just a guess. That fuel pressure regulator looks a little shinny, almost new. It maybe aftermarket?
Yeah, lots of people don’t have any real issues with their fuel bowls but their are definitely a lot of people who have. The leaks aren’t major issues though, just an annoyance. Yes that is a shiny new part on it. I explain it more in the second video
Thank you for the video I will be rebuilding my fuel bowl next week. I did have one question on one of the parts that you bought from Edge product 98607 pressure sensor I know it sounds dumb to ask where did you install that pressure sensor in to ? Thank you
I have mine plumbed into my cnc fuel bowl delete block since I don't have my fuel boil anymore. otherwise I believe the common location is the bottom right corner of the bowl in the removable plug. A 90* 1/8th npt adapter is needed.
Do you have the lid seal on correctly? I know on the super duties they were beveled directionally. Hard to say when I don’t know where’s it’s coming out from?
Hey body sorry I need help iam from Guatemala City, and iam looking for that piece you show in your video, I need the name about thet complete cup youbhave please, and sorry by my english
I must be one of the lucky ones. After 24 years and 325,000 miles I've only had to fix the drain valve...twice. The HPOP...well that's a different story.
I've been working on Diesels since 1972, and if it ain't a leakin fuel and oil... It's Not a Diesel :) just kidding! I've used Cummins Power Service Diesel Kleen for ever and this fuel additive will keep the fuel system clean and the o-rings lubed. I've never have had a fuel leak in the 20 years I've had my 2000 7.3 :) Also bee running International A/C injectors since 2002! The motor is a Beast :)
I'm going to use that Diesel Kleen... I have 2000 7.3with the 6 speed manual that pouring fuel out when its started, I believe its the passenger head fuel line going in today to find out , but I'm going to pull the fuel bowl and rebuild it as well . Seems simple to do, exp when you have great youtube vids like this, I live i Pittsburgh the salt Destroys everything. Went to Georgia and bought all the doors, bed everything i need rust free..., Just need cab corners.the truck has 120,000 miles thats why i am even doing all of this, 99-04 Fords 7.3. are nice body style,..
@@jon-xq2lc Hello Jon5, I just love my 2000 F-250 Super Cab w/ 7.3 Power Stroke! I've used Power Service for 40+ years in my Semis and my Power Strokes and it works really well for all the fuel issues; keeps the system clean, raises Cetane levels and works great on fuel gelling plus being back East kills off scum growth in the fuel! Now having Stiction issues with my HI 160cc A/C injectors, these are International single shot injectors that Ford did not offer; I'm going to use Hot Shot Stiction Eliminator in the oil to clean this issue... better than $3500 for an injector job!
@@danielmcqueen1024 hey thanks for the great information, i worked out the fuel issue, now to build the truck back, I live in the rust belt, PA. But went to Georgia and picked up all the doors fenders and bed, . thanks again>
@@LivingOnWheels if I take the fuel pressure regulator out of the side of the fuel bowl the return to the tank is fully open it runs like a new trutif I put the spring and the brass stem back in fuel pedal doesn't respond and will barely run
That is odd. My best recommendation would be to pick yourself up a fuel pressure gauge and start by testing the pressure with the regulator installed properly. Making sure it’s not linked or offset in the hole. It’s easy to do that.
Sounds like the spring and plunger are not installed correctly. It should be half of that. Like I said, it’s easy to get the spring miss aligned in the hole which will cause the pressure to be way too high.
Great video. Very informative but.... there is really only one fix for the multitude of problems that come with the 7.3 fuel bowl; THROW IT IN THE TRASH CAN. The best thing you cna do is toss that POS and replace it with a remorte filter system. They aren't that expensive, way cleaner, get's the bowl out of the way so you can work on other things and actually makes the truck run better due to the better regulator the kits come with and decreased flow restrictions. Oh.... and you'll only need to do it once while the factory fuel bowl will giver you trouble no matter hoow many times you rebuild or replace it. Look into it. You'll be much happier.
@@PetProductsParadise-zy3hd I custom buil;t mine but it started as CNCs 4 line kit. cncfab.us/products/99-5-03-7-3l-cnc-fab-4-line-feed-valley-mount-fuel-line-kit-422017
Dude what planet are you living on when you said it's not that expensive! A stock fuel bowl is $500.00, a fuel delete system I have priced out is almost always $1,500. The stock fuel bowls seem to last a couple hundred thousand miles before problems, can be very beneficial to a lot of people. HOWEVER! I I've read a fair share stories of people rebuilding their fuel bowl with these kits and then they still leak... I'm a little weary. To try it, but due to budget constraints I will have to. I have a 7.3 van so it is extremely difficult to get to the fuel bowl, you have to use mirrors and work backwards
@@LivingOnWheels should be a video with lots of people being interested I would think. I've replied to your videos couple times, enjoying them. I have my f350 I ordered new, 284000 on it now, 6 speed stick. I'm very meticulous on it, probably one of the cleanest 99.5 around. Never wreck, no rust, paint excellent , interior 9.5 This spring thinking of giving riffraff alot of business on replacement parts. See your from Oregon if not mistaken. I grew up out Roseburg and now live above Vancouver in La Center area Take care
If you have the extra fill filters that you put on there from fast or air dog then why don't you just do a feel bold delete that we don't need to worry about the city more like I've done
Hey man. Just used these two videos to rebuild my fuel bowl today, and they were invaluable. Thank you, sir.
There were a couple of differences. My drain valve didn't have that check ball in the cap and it didn't have a heater in the bowl. Not concerned with the check ball, but the lack of a fuel heater peaked my interest. Anyway...
Will be reinstalling it tomorrow morning as well as replacing the HPOP lines. That SHOULD get the truck running (wasn't running when I bought it). Looks like the previous owner half-assed all the repairs he attempted. Will let everyone know how it went when I post the video of reinstalling everything.
Again, thanks for these two great videos. You saved me a lot of time and headaches.
Mine didn't seem to have the check ball in the drain stem either...I was afraid I launched it across the garage. Gonna put it back together without and hope for the best I guess.
I’ve had the kit on the shelf and I’ve been putting this project off for months because It was daunting and I didn’t know how to do it, but this video (and part 2) made it super easy. Great video man.
Happy to hear it man!
I did this rebuild about a year ago on my 1996 F350. Your video would have made it much simpler. Your explanation is very easy to follow, detailed, and concise. A friend of mine just had a problem that a mechanic diagnosed as the fuel pressure regulator. They replaced the entire fuel bowl assembly rather than just repair the pressure regulator, about $350 parts charge.
I appreciate. I am a strong proponent of learning to work on your own rig. Sometimes it cost you more but definitely pays off in the long run.
@@LivingOnWheels hey what you use to get to the level of your truck to perform these projects
@@markgeralds Just a little 2 step ladder/stool. I can only be on me feet for short periods of times but it gets the job done.
Living on Wheels,... Your videos are the BEST, on the 7.3L engines and Ford trucks, I have seen on the web!! I really appreciate your attention to detail, your explanations and documentation of every step... I am a log time "Shade tree mechanic" working on Model A's to the Gullwing Mercedes Benz. I, like you, LOVE my 7.3L because of it's reliability and design... Though I hate how loud it is!
With 319,000 miles on my "Beast", I wouldn't trade it for anything else.
Thank you for all you do for us. Every one of your videos is of importance in helping us keep our Beasts going. From Texas to Oregon, Thank you
I appreciate it a lot man!
Awesome video. I have been fighting fuel pump secondary circuit low issues for months. I order a new fuel filter housing for a last ditch effort to get this issue fixed. Makes me wonder now if the fuel pressure regulator isn't my problem.
But perfect video. Great description of things and how to. Thanks
Thanks for the help. As of now, my trusty 7.3 doesn't need this work, but I'm building a playlist for when the time comes to wrench on it again. More videos like this!
Absolute best 7.3 videos on the tube!
Glad to hear it!
thanks buddy for this video, i was just planning on doing this bowl reseal on my 7.3, she started leaking, i thought it was an oil leak from the HPOP but it looks like the bowl valve. ill be doing this along with other few mods from Riff Raff, this should be exciting!!!
Do it! Its really not a bad job to do.
Thanks man was really hoping somebody had a video on here and yours was great mine is definitely leaking from the drain valve got the kit from riffraff last night
I had a leaking fuel drain. I was told that the new diesel fuel eats the o-rings. I found a replacement O-ring on eBay that is made out of material that is less effected by the new fuel . I replaced the 0-ring and have not had any more problems for the last 7 years.
Man!! Amazin video
Best of all on u tub.
Great
Thnks very degailsd video
Clear all my questions
💯✔
Happy to hear it!
I just made a block off plate for it never had any problems since
Question. I live in an area that gets very very cold in the winter. Will deleting the fuel bowl with those temperatures effect performance in the winter months? I don't see how that system heats the fuel?
Since i last spoke with you….you recommended to unplug my exhaust back pressure value and it fixed my problem. Do i need to worry about the pedal still value or seal, turbo…i have 141k and was my father in laws truck which barely ever left the farm
Hi there I was gonna ask you how good is the quality on this o rings since they only offer a one year warranty?
I would not be concerned about quality at all. Also still holding up great almost 4 years later.
Hey living on wheels,
First I'd like to just say I really enjoy you videos, for they are very helpful.
I do have a question relating on this topic, for I just rebuilt my fuel bowl, and I don't expect you to have an answer, but out of all the videos on this subject, I find your tutorial most helpful.
The old crush gaskets that attach from the fuel lines to the fuel bowl are still stuck inside the brass nut that sleeves over the fuel line, would you have any recommendations on getting those out?
I don't know if you ever encountered that problem, but I don't think I can just put the new crush gaskets on with the old ones still inside the brass nut.
I appreciate any advise, and keep doing what your doing, your an inspiration for many, and thanks again.
I am glad the videos are helpful. Thank you for watching them. I think you are referring to the Viton o-rings. I dont have any magical tips. My best advice is just using a pic tool or small screw driver. I was usually able to just pull the nut back over the fuel line and the viton seal staid in place. And no, you definitely don't want to try and seal it up with the old pieces still inside the nut.
@Living On Wheels
Thank you for your response, I will try that out tomorrow.
Side note... as a finish carpenter/cabinet builder, I just want to say good job on trimming out your windows with the old growth, vertical grain, dug fir. Your 100 percent right, one will never find that grade of material in a lumber yard today. Your giving that tree a third life.
Yeah... it might be a pain to pull the nails, and mill the material again, but in the end, it's tottaly worth it.
Again... your an inspiration.
Video starts at 3 minutes in ... 2:52
That is a big blue wrench you used. Funny.
I once had to replaced the two oil rings to the yellow water drain valve. I did it with the fuel bowel in the truck. It took a half-hour.
In 20 years this was only issue with fuel bowel. I think the fuel bowel is working as it was designed to.
Just a guess. That fuel pressure regulator looks a little shinny, almost new. It maybe aftermarket?
Yeah, lots of people don’t have any real issues with their fuel bowls but their are definitely a lot of people who have. The leaks aren’t major issues though, just an annoyance. Yes that is a shiny new part on it. I explain it more in the second video
I broke my stem pipe and crows foot won't grip so I can take it out. I know it's reverse thread. 97 7.3. Any suggestions?
Possibly a deep socket or long need nose vice grips
Thank you for the video I will be rebuilding my fuel bowl next week. I did have one question on one of the parts that you bought from Edge product 98607 pressure sensor I know it sounds dumb to ask where did you install that pressure sensor in to ? Thank you
I have mine plumbed into my cnc fuel bowl delete block since I don't have my fuel boil anymore. otherwise I believe the common location is the bottom right corner of the bowl in the removable plug. A 90* 1/8th npt adapter is needed.
@@LivingOnWheels thank you I knew you were the man to ask. I really do appreciate your videos thank you so much
Not a problem. Thanks for watching!
Riffraff part 13-001
I have a problem on my 1996 f250 7.3. It keep blowing out the fuel filter, every time I crank my truck
Do you have the lid seal on correctly? I know on the super duties they were beveled directionally.
Hard to say when I don’t know where’s it’s coming out from?
Hey body sorry I need help iam from Guatemala City, and iam looking for that piece you show in your video, I need the name about thet complete cup youbhave please, and sorry by my english
I must be one of the lucky ones. After 24 years and 325,000 miles I've only had to fix the drain valve...twice. The HPOP...well that's a different story.
Thanks joe love the video
Still have this fuel bowl? I need one.
I've been working on Diesels since 1972, and if it ain't a leakin fuel and oil... It's Not a Diesel :) just kidding! I've used Cummins Power Service Diesel Kleen for ever and this fuel additive will keep the fuel system clean and the o-rings lubed. I've never have had a fuel leak in the 20 years I've had my 2000 7.3 :) Also bee running International A/C injectors since 2002! The motor is a Beast :)
I'm going to use that Diesel Kleen... I have 2000 7.3with the 6 speed manual that pouring fuel out when its started, I believe its the passenger head fuel line going in today to find out , but I'm going to pull the fuel bowl and rebuild it as well . Seems simple to do, exp when you have great youtube vids like this, I live i Pittsburgh the salt Destroys everything. Went to Georgia and bought all the doors, bed everything i need rust free..., Just need cab corners.the truck has 120,000 miles thats why i am even doing all of this, 99-04 Fords 7.3. are nice body style,..
@@jon-xq2lc Hello Jon5, I just love my 2000 F-250 Super Cab w/ 7.3 Power Stroke! I've used Power Service for 40+ years in my Semis and my Power Strokes and it works really well for all the fuel issues; keeps the system clean, raises Cetane levels and works great on fuel gelling plus being back East kills off scum growth in the fuel!
Now having Stiction issues with my HI 160cc A/C injectors, these are International single shot injectors that Ford did not offer; I'm going to use Hot Shot Stiction Eliminator in the oil to clean this issue... better than $3500 for an injector job!
@@danielmcqueen1024 hey thanks for the great information, i worked out the fuel issue, now to build the truck back, I live in the rust belt, PA. But went to Georgia and picked up all the doors fenders and bed, . thanks again>
When you take apart the fuel drain valve the part where you pull a little ball out it comes out in 3 pieces I was leaking right there I thought
My 99 7.3 power stroke runs rough with the fuel pressure regulator in I can take it out and runs fine need help
What do you mean by with it in and taking it out?
@@LivingOnWheels if I take the fuel pressure regulator out of the side of the fuel bowl the return to the tank is fully open it runs like a new trutif I put the spring and the brass stem back in fuel pedal doesn't respond and will barely run
That is odd. My best recommendation would be to pick yourself up a fuel pressure gauge and start by testing the pressure with the regulator installed properly. Making sure it’s not linked or offset in the hole. It’s easy to do that.
@@LivingOnWheels got a pressure gauge and had 105 lbs at the fuel bowl with the pressure regulator installed
Sounds like the spring and plunger are not installed correctly. It should be half of that. Like I said, it’s easy to get the spring miss aligned in the hole which will cause the pressure to be way too high.
Does a leaky bowl cause hard start?
It would say probably not. Your pump will reprime the bowl while the glow plugs are warming up.
what year truck is this?
This applies to 99-03 7.3 powerstrokes
Great video. Very informative but.... there is really only one fix for the multitude of problems that come with the 7.3 fuel bowl; THROW IT IN THE TRASH CAN. The best thing you cna do is toss that POS and replace it with a remorte filter system. They aren't that expensive, way cleaner, get's the bowl out of the way so you can work on other things and actually makes the truck run better due to the better regulator the kits come with and decreased flow restrictions. Oh.... and you'll only need to do it once while the factory fuel bowl will giver you trouble no matter hoow many times you rebuild or replace it. Look into it. You'll be much happier.
Oh I deleted the fuel bowl on this truck. That’s why I had it out haha. Just used the opportunity to make the video since I had it on the shelf.
Still, a good video. Very informative.
Can you give me a link to the new kit you installed?
@@PetProductsParadise-zy3hd I custom buil;t mine but it started as CNCs 4 line kit.
cncfab.us/products/99-5-03-7-3l-cnc-fab-4-line-feed-valley-mount-fuel-line-kit-422017
Dude what planet are you living on when you said it's not that expensive!
A stock fuel bowl is $500.00, a fuel delete system I have priced out is almost always $1,500. The stock fuel bowls seem to last a couple hundred thousand miles before problems, can be very beneficial to a lot of people.
HOWEVER! I I've read a fair share stories of people rebuilding their fuel bowl with these kits and then they still leak... I'm a little weary. To try it, but due to budget constraints I will have to. I have a 7.3 van so it is extremely difficult to get to the fuel bowl, you have to use mirrors and work backwards
great video thanks
In theory if someone is leaking fuel into the valley couldn't they just replace all the Orings on the outside of the bowl?
That could possibly solve the issue. The drain valve assembly is the most prone to leaking.
Thought about deleting?
He said he has done the delete.
Deleted mine as well was tired of the constant fuel leaks on them!
how do you delete them?
@@calmguy1065 you can do a regulated return e fuel kit with its own fuel filters
Great video- thinking of deleting mine also. Which brand names did you consider before choosing ?
Any issues with your change out ? Do overs ?
Thinking about doing a video on this topic actually. Have had a number of people with similar questions
@@LivingOnWheels should be a video with lots of people being interested I would think.
I've replied to your videos couple times, enjoying them.
I have my f350 I ordered new, 284000 on it now, 6 speed stick.
I'm very meticulous on it, probably one of the cleanest 99.5 around. Never wreck, no rust, paint excellent , interior 9.5
This spring thinking of giving riffraff alot of business on replacement parts.
See your from Oregon if not mistaken. I grew up out Roseburg and now live above Vancouver in La Center area
Take care
If you have the extra fill filters that you put on there from fast or air dog then why don't you just do a feel bold delete that we don't need to worry about the city more like I've done
Like I said, I do have a fuel bowl delete. That’s why this wasn’t in my truck.
@@LivingOnWheels I apologize I was doing some things with my hands and make a noise I could hear the whole video
It’s all good 👍🏻
Part 2 here
ua-cam.com/video/ia1xQ4UjeUU/v-deo.html
Hearing car advice from the guy from pineapple Express
Where can I get the first fitting above the supply fitting? Mines is aluminum and a bit stripped.
I think you’re talking about the return line and you can find them on Amazon.
amzn.to/3jU08Bh