How Impedance Rise Is Killing Your System!
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2024
- In this video I show you in real-time how impedance rise (box rise) can kill your car audio system. I use a newly purchased SMD AMM-1 audio meter to measure my wattage and impedance. Hope this helps you understand this topic more.
Amazon Shopping Links (affiliate):
Featured Too(s)-
SMD AMM-1: amzn.to/3xTGBoW
SUBWOOFERS -
Skar Audio VXF12 D2: amzn.to/3a5ep6e
Toro Tech - Fierce 12: amzn.to/3d7najB
TORO TECH - Force 8: amzn.to/3ckrIUs
Massive Audio Hippo XL12: amzn.to/34rG01g
Massive Audio Hippo: amzn.to/34rG01g
Toro Tech Force 12: amzn.to/37Bd3SK
Resilient Sounds Gold 12: amzn.to/2KIXbEp
Sundown Audio SA-8: amzn.to/3fa5Ryt
Sundown Audio X-8: amzn.to/3b3MVyp
Skar Audio MA-8: amzn.to/2yj0Wus
Skar Audio ZVX-8: amzn.to/2KQf0OQ
Skar Audio SDR12: amzn.to/375fkSz
Skar Audio SVR12: amzn.to/2tB6vCd
American Bass XFL12: amzn.to/2S8OlRX
Audiopipe TXX BDC412: amzn.to/38hRtQM
Power Acoustik MOFO12: amzn.to/2S687xg
Subwoofer Enclosures -
Skar Audio SK2X12V: amzn.to/30lwo5R
QBomb Dual Vented Horn: amzn.to/30klUDV
Speaker Wires:
Skar 12-gauge OFC speaker wire: amzn.to/3rnPFyG
Tools -
Oscilloscope Multi-meter: amzn.to/2z44pgN
Audio control LC2i: amzn.to/2VGzNeh
SPL-Lab Mini Bass Meter: amzn.to/2Xu7vU0
Play Lists -
Learn More About Band-Pass Builds: • Band Pass Builds
12”Competitions: • 12 Inch Subwoofer Comp...
Skar Audio: • Skar Audio
American Bass: • Skar Audio
Power Acoustik: • Power Acoustik
AudioPipe: • Audiopipe
Impala Sound System: • Impala System
Learn How To Count Acoustic Orders: • Counting Acoustic Orders
Time Stamps
Chapters
0:00 - Intro
0:45 - Unboxing
3:27 - Setting Gains
8:52 - Setting Up The AMM-1
10:12 - 40Hz Impedance Testing
10:55 - 30Hz Impedance Testing
13:02 - 32Hz Impedance Testing
13:45 - Conclusion
#SMD #AMM1 #BudgetBassHead #audiopipeamp #sk2x12v #whatisimpedancerise
DISCLAIMER: This video description contains affiliate links, which means that making a purchase, after following the links, supports the content of this channel. Thanks in advance.
Links to all the products featured in this video can be found in the description section below. All purchases do support the channel; enabling us to bring you more valued content such as this. Thanks in advanced and happy shopping. - Наука та технологія
Didnt know Steve Harvey would be teaching me about car audio 🤟🏿
😁
I didnt hear steve Harvey until u said it... now i cant unhear it. Lol
U nailed it, good one😂
Swear to god I started reading before commenting! You beat me to it. Killed me🤣🤣
🤣
This is why I size my Amps pretty much double the RMS rating of the sub, You did a good job explaining it here.
🤦🏼
I have wanted one of those amm-1's for sooo long. Im pretty sure my box rise is robbing me too. Thanks for doing this video a lot of people just dont understand this and they assume their stuff is always at 1ohm or 2ohm and have no clue that ohms are dynamic and it moves with the music which changes the wattage
DOPE. i own a AMM-1 it is super fun to use! i have no regrets on buying it.
Love how you referred to the amps as main and helper. Instantly subscribed.
I appreciated that too - we need to adopt this as a community!
Same
@@joshhaimes why?
@@matt6951 Because master/slave evokes slavery
i just wish i could do the same when explaining ignition timing to customers when i work at O'reilly's. We need to come up with something other than advanced or retarded ignition lol. @@joshhaimes
Thank you for getting the SMD AMM-1 for your videos! Cant wait to see some more tests now
More to come! I promise
1 of my favorite audio channels by far!
Always learning great stuff from this channel
Thanks for the support.
I really appreciate the information you lace us up with. Learn something new every video. Thank you brother.
I appreciate that👍
nice video, thank you for helping explain impedance rise,.. I did a clamp test last week with a Toro R6, I started out at 0.5ohm and rise to about 2.5ohm ish ... I started out at 4000RMS but clamped at 2200RMS... impedance rise is KILLing ME lol.... awesome video BBH
The Toro amp is a beast I love them and theyre rated for .5 check my vid out I had 1 on 2 bdc4 12s
Steve is the real deal he made these tools for a real reason for us to not over do our setups on subs and amps and make them last longer and not over set to be clipping
Wow... How much don't you know? First of all, Steve didn't MAKE anything other than a partnership with the tool designers so he could be the marketing face of the product. That's the equivalent of being a pioneering version of Milli Vanilli. How you could call that "being real" is absurd. Secondly, charging $500-$800 for a device that can be outdone by a $120 o-scope or has the equivalence of a simple $40 multimeter from Lowes in a "more user-friendly interface" is robbery. And to do so all off of the assumption that the general public would either be too lazy or stupid to do what "his tool" can do is arrogance personified. It's a rather simple concept: buy equipment that's compatible with other equipment and don't treat the gain like it's a volume knob, put frequencies to speakers that are intended to produce those frequencies, and use basic logic and math to dial things in, and *poof*, no more "need" for this "tool". The product or him. Neither of which are as accurate as claimed, BTW. Don't think just because he runs a business and YT channel that it's not all been debunked before. And for the record, I'm not a "hater", I just know better than to smell the hot air he lets off.
Very, very good video. Great editing and information thank you!
Bro thats crazy.... Now i feel the need to check my setup!!
Yep. Most people don't realize how little they get in terms of a clean signal. It was definitely an eye-opener for me.
Thank for the video. Good stuff !!!
The AMM1 is a great tool. For the purposes of this video (impedance rise) you can also use the DATs from Parts Express. Totally different tool but less expensive and does a few of the things the AMM1 can. Thanks for the great content. I'm in the market for an Oscope I'll be checking that lumy one out fo sho
Great job well explain and great video 👍👍👍 keep up with a great job I wish I could afford SMD but I use the loony as well it works pretty well for me now I'm getting more knowledge of car audio I could turn cheap stuff too good quality sound no matter what it is I used to use a multimeter and the time you had to hear it by ear it has came a long ways
Good video. Me and my Sons were also shocked after we got our AMM-1.
Your numbers are on par too. We get about 35% of what the amps would do on a test bench.
Build a custom enclosure with correct cf , tune and port area and watch the difference.
May be a difference, but there will always be impedance rise
Yup. The issue is box not tuned to that spec. What ever the highest wattage you get at what tone is what your box is tuned to. Imagine some will do worse or better at 30hz. The normal decent tune is 40 to 50. That's why I go 10" to reach a lower box tune easier when I lack trunk space.
This is why amps with regulated power supplies (Power BDCP Fosgates, Taramp Smart 3s, etc... ) are generally louder on the street than unregulated Korean's twice the rating. On music, I'd rather have a 1-ohm amp that can push 2-4 ohms hard as well.
Main amplifier and the helper...I see what you did there. Smart man.
Yep the algorithm doesn't like certain terminology👍.
I absolutely loved your video, as a fellow car audio enthusiast…. Subbed 👍
Welcome to the channel 🥳
I have the same set up man but my evl’s are 2 ohm same two amps this vid helped point me in the right direction for what I’m going to do with my box.. nothing is installed yet, but was stuck between strapping or not now I know which way I’m going with that...
How are the amps on heat now, I remember in one of your vids you said they get really hot and hear the same in reviews. Thx for the content
That is dope. I love the fact that the equipment has my initials already on it. 🤣
Great video man! I wonder if you swept the frequency to find the lowest impedance of the box and rewire the subs to get more power out of the amp. Would be curious how that works out for you. Keep the good content coming!
That's the plan! Thanks for the support!
Well detailed and made video Bro
Great video I watch alot of your content. Something seems off with the readings they just seem very low but I don't know much about strapping amps but I see other youtubers using the amm1 in their vehicles and they are spot on with the ratings when they do test tones. Idk man I still might invest in one for my setup
Sick set up dude
Mane these meters are super bad azz‼️Being a electrician and basshead i love multi meters especially ones that are for car audio. Was gonna definitely get a SMD DD1 + now i think ima have to get one of these AMM 1 as well💯
Great vid. I no u said how your speakers were wired. Maybe u could show us how your speakers r wired with a diagram. The strapped amps should've done more than wat u were getting. Keep the vids coming, luv your work👍🏾😁
Good shit bro! I love how you referred to the amps as "main" and "helper" rather than "master" and "Slave".
The car audio industry needs to remove those terms from strapping amps.
Great video. Looks like I'm buying one.
*SMD kicks Ass !!!
Links are in the description.😉🤘
Tools like this are a great investment, just wish I had the money. I'm sure my system has more it can give but I don't want to blow anything up. But right now it sounds good so I can't complain too much.
I used to be a believer in matching rms of bothe the amp and speakers. I failed to understand impedance rise, and therefore couldn't account for daily listening. However I never blew a system this way. The flip side was I saw my amp's or system's full potential. But that's ok as long as you don't know lol. Now I know better! So I in order to compensate for impedance rise I go a lil bigger on the amp in attempt to match real world power to my sub's rms. Of course I had to go bigger on my electrical. Something that rarely comes to mind in regards to real world power. But as all you gotta pay to learn 💯. I hate to do so, but I'll have to bite the bullet and get that SMD tool. It definitely is a must have. Anyway great video brother
I just got dual Taramps. featured in next video.
@@BudgetBassHead 10 4. I've on your UA-cam channel as a subscriber for years now. I can't stop now! As always like and comment. I'm already subscribed ☺. I really appreciate the content and the sense of wholesome car 🚗audio loving subscribers you bring together on a rare but definitely peaceful channel. Great job Budget Basshead 👏👍👌
@@BudgetBassHead One MD8k is all you need.
Great video. Thanks
Haha! That's how I work on my whip, when I can. N I've owned an amm1 for 4 or 5 mo. It's pretty useful. don't remember what hz but I got 2600 @ 2.2 ohms on each of my vxf out my synergy 3k. Damn thing was $800 but dope amp. Good video bro
Great amp. Cost more than most but we'll worth the dollar 💵. Especially when it comes to compensating for impedance rise
It sucks that it requires more money to run more efficiently
I agree 100% Clipping is dangerous and clean signal just sounds better to me.
Really in my opinion I think higher sensitivity lower wattage subs will sound cleaner im thinking of just buying 2 super sized amps just so I can run a loud 4ohm system
Love the vids...keep em coming!
I noticed with the LC2i, the manufacturer says to have at half. Is your accubass up? Does adjusting the accubass and amp gain clip earlier on the oscilloscope
Test your radio to see what volume gets you the highest signal without clipping. Then set your amp gains. Also you can wire your speakers to 1 ohm to help with box rise. Ive seen guys wire amps to .5 that are only rated for 2ohms and it works fine because your overall impedance is higher than .5 when impedance rise is figured in. Be aware if your amp setup is only good for 2k rms for example you dont want to be over about 2.5k on peaks if your concerned about pushing your amps too hard. 2.5k on peaks should be fine for a daily driver setup. Run your test again after wiring down and see what your results are.
Great! Now gotta start looking for bigger amp then
i seen ur getting 2 8k's anyways so i won't tell you to wire down ( my girl has 2 apmn 1500 strapped: final peak numbers @ 40 hz 66v 33a 2 ohms rise wired to 1 ohm but american bass xfl that's more like .7 so each amp sees .35 i assume and 2k output at around 12.6ish source voltage with car @ idle) but i will say that your box is the main culprit. which actually surprises me because of all the cool things you've built, you're still content with the skar box. would really love to see those subs in a 4th order or iso 6th in series or even a tapered horn iso ...
Yea I was going to say something to you a long time ago about wire down to.5 on the woofer but I didn't think you would listen sorry. Wired to .5 with two dual 2ohm woofers with rise you should clamp around 1.5 ohm on the low side depending on what Hz your testing and still be ok with the manufacture recommending of no lower then 2 ohm strapped. But now you have a AMM1 so you can test that! Love ya bro keep up the good fight, praying for you.
I had mine wired down to .5 on jl w7s and it pulled up to 1.5 using a Memphis 1000.1 completely unbelievable the power out of that system. This was such a great video I had actually forgotten about this issue until I was refreshed here and now I know what is going on with my current system.
So if I wire my speakers down to .5 ohm from 1 ohm that will make up for impedance rise?
@@Theyoufeelme Yes every time. Don't let people scare you away from wiring .5 the amp will never see 1ohm after rise more like 2ohm
Great content! I was playing with my new system yesterday with my SMD AMM-1 and was able to get 8702 watts at a rise of .9 ohms from one of my two Taramps MD8000.1 amps. I am running each amp at a static .7 ohms. I was surprised to get such a high number. Both are gain matched so I am thinking I am getting around 17k during burps.
That is ironically amazing. I just purchased that amp. Video coming soon!
@@BudgetBassHead Awesome! You will love it! It definitely fits in with the budget bass theme. Not sure there is another better bang for the buck. I got my last 2 (I have 4) off Amazon shipped for $456 each. The two I have have been taking a severe beating too. But I am feeding them very well... 270 AH of Yinlong at 15+ volts with a 370 amp alt.
@@Widowmaker2828 Sounds like you really know your stuff👍 you posted any videos of it?
@@BudgetBassHead I do have a bunch of videos... Some I started to upload on my UA-cam channel... I bought the Irish Hux Explorer (you can search him he has tons of vids) a few months ago and tore it apart and reworked the enclosure for 4- 18" PSI platform 5 subs. Sorry it's a little long of a story 🙂 The truck had so, so, many issues from the 160+ db system it had I have been spending months sorting them all out. I took out what seemed like miles of extra wires that I had no idea what they were for. Also fixed airbag issues and broken doors and other bass issues. But long story short after much much work I got the system running great. I have a SPL labs meter and as of 2 days ago hit 156.9 sealed on the windshield, 158.7 on the windshield with the door open, and 160+ (meter only goes to 160) in the foot well with the driver door open. It plays from 13 hz all the way up to 50 hz great. I do have a picture I took of the 8702 watts from the Taramps MD8000.1 I can upload if anyone knows of a place I can upload and link photos. Like I said I have a bunch of vids I have to upload to my site but with work and my daughter's graduation I haven't had any time to do the editing. I will try to get some up soon. Sorry so long 😁
Oh and the the MD8000 amps are just for breaking in the subs. I have a Taramps Bass 30k I plan on hooking up soon after I have fun testing with the 8ks. Then after that I have a few more surprises I haven't let anyone know about yet but they are big. 😉🔊
Like your videos, have you tried a DD or a Dc audio amp?
the the box were facing the back so the port could load off the trunk will help you gain more cone control and will likely sound better, also having an electrical that is fully able to power both those amps even after rise would help your clamp numbers of course. takes power to make power
I thought the same. Put a meter on my trunk with same box, tested with tones facing rear, facing forward, sideways, i never ever thought it would hit its peak with the box laying on its back, port firing up, but it did. Weird
What’s good, hey I’ve just started watching some of your vids and I enjoy listening to the bass in your demos. What are the songs called?
I pull most of them from the UA-cam Library. Its hard to find really good ones, but I guess I should start putting the names up for you guys.
I guess it wouldn't be as much "budget", but what if you went with power, or punch amp? They say constant power technology? I was just considering doing this myself.
I'm not sure what to take away from this video. Impedance rise is typically a rise in efficiency. You're still limited by your minimum impedance your subs rest at (typically around tuning) But then again this video isn't geared towards me. Never the less it was still enjoyable to watch and never know when I'll learn something new.
I have two sundown x-15's v.3 wired to half Ohm on a crescendo 4K. And I'm rising to .67 or 1.34 ohms. I'm using a clamp meter and a regular meter. I'm clamping the two positive speaker wires. And I have the other meter hooked up to one positive and one negative speaker wire.
The subs are wired to 1 ohm in the box and half ohm at the amp. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to multiply my number or not since I only have the regular meter going to one sub.
You need to get a good constant power amplifier like kicker makes or the new sundown Sia series or taramps smart series where you get the same wattage between 1&2 ohms it really helps with impedance rise
I need to get one of these, because I know my rise is a lot
100+ volts!? Holy sh*t that is more than 10k watts @ 1 Ohm amp power!
Those audio pipe amps do some business. For super budget amps they have impressed me and I always recommend them to people on a budget
From what I’ve noticed, when you bridge channels on amplifiers the voltage from the two channels gets added together on the multimeter, which is what I’m guessing is exactly what’s going on here with these two amps strapped. so it’s actually 50 Vrms from each amp
@@magictoaster806 Yup exactly this. Strapped = Bridged and that's what's going on here. Each amp is handling half of the total voltage.
And when Bridged you're wiring impedance should be 2x that of the minimum impedance each channel (or amp in this case) can do. These do 2k at 1 ohm so Strapped minimum impedance should be 2 ohm and you'll get 4k.
yo, can u ALSO set up the db meter to see what db's u get? like do a sweep from ur peak db frequency, down to that frequency where u get the highest impedance rise?
Salute!
as you already know BBH with more cone control you will have less impedance rise.. I bet if you do a test with a sealed box or better yet a little 4th order you will have more cone control and get more RMS out of that set of AP amps... if you still have that Force 12S try it or something of that level of sub and put it in a single 4th order.. I bet you will get 20 to 30% more RMS out of your setup... as always you are doing big great things in the car audio world.. great job
That sounds like a formula for a great future video. Thanks for the tip!
4th orders are known for having lots of box rise because of the sealed section
This is my first timing watching one of your videos not to mention my first time even coming across your channel. I have to say: Im impressed!
Do you have any videos that are light weight made for newbies, beginners, and/or learners?
I believe you got more in it. That O scope is fishy to me.
Man I want that DD1
Good info! How do you set the LC2i?
Moving the enclosure can affect the rise, anything to help control cone movement
I agree. Have the port load off of the trunk lid or side wall. Keep it like 4-6 inches away from the wall.
Did u change all the interior speakers? If so what speakers did u use and the ohms for the new speakers.
Just subbed to your channel man i have a question how did you set your lc2i? and do you have the bass know on the lc2i? I have one im my maxima on a jl 500/1 & im about to put my second one in so 2 jl w6 12s on 2 500/1s
Increase your source output voltage using a line driver if your headunit is only pushing a 2v output signal your amp has to run alot harder and runs less efficient increasing your output voltage to 7 or 8v will allow your amp to run more efficient and will get you closer to your 2ohm load
A quality amp and speakers with correct box specs will be better. I have an audio control LC 1.1500. Full power all the way through. Yea it’s about an $800 amp but you get what you pay for. Too many people try to ball on a budget. Save the money, be patient and purchase quality.
You can probably run your subs at a lower impedance and get away with it safely.... I had my subs wired to half an ohm but with box rise it was way higher and I ran one audiopipe 2k with cooling fans and it got down! Never had any issues with running the Amp at half an ohm after I put the cooling fans on it. I have a few friends running the same audiopipe 2ks that I installed with the cooling fans at half an ohm and they don't have any issues either. And they're banging surpsingly loud.... I love those audiopipe 2ks for the price and reliability and the power they're capable of
I agree with you. But with fluctuations in the variety of music genres i listen to, I didn't want to run the risk of impedance dropping and damaging something.
Impedence rise , impedence variations , it happens with ALL subwoofers , a fixed magnetic field with a moving energized coil changing position as the energized coil travels back and forth within the fixed magnetic field aka motor magnet ! No worries don't stress it ! If you can't knock the cone outta the frame just out more power to it !
ANOTHER HOME RUN BBH INSIDE THE IMPALA I solute you bro. Content just keep going up and audiopipe got a niceDEALER LINE of amps and subs cheaper out when you can
Will do 👍
Great vid just found a dude on offer up who offers this service to tune and test ampage I’m currently doing 1277 on a taramps smart 3k on two ct sounds 12 ozone 800watt each
Ive got the DD1, CC1 , TM1 and some other install stuff from Meade. His stuff is awesome. Expensive but worth it. Another great video man 😁👍👍 Is it possible that the back pressure from the size of the enclosure is the problem? Would a bigger box help? Just wondering....
I actually think the box is too small. Got plans to build a bigger one.
@@BudgetBassHead right on man. Just did that myself. I've got 4 x 12inch BDC2s. 11 cubic ft. 36 hz. Box is 250 lbs. Just got it in the van last night. 1.25 inch thick walls. 2.5 inch thick baffle. Herculiner bedliner roll on kit. Turned out nice. Old box was less than half the size.
I just started running an amp that’s 800 rms at 4 ohms on a 500 rms sub wired to 2 for this very reason. I haven’t really turned it up yet in this configuration but at moderate volumes it definitely seems like it’s more consistent at different frequencies.
I also got an amp that's 800rms at 4ohm and it's gonna power a 400rms sub at 2ohm, gotta build the the box though but thanks for the information on the constancy between frequencies
Good stuff. As long as the amp is stable @2ohms it should be okay. I've heard of people often times able to run amplifiers at lower impedances, unknowingly due to high impedance rises in their systems. Not every environment is subjected to these high impedances and probably should stick to manufacture's recommendations.
Brazilian amps are weird. I don’t know where they got the idea of of making the same amp with the same power at different impedances. Only thing I’m really concerned about is blowing the sub but it’s whatever I have another one that’s on the shelf cause I couldn’t give it enough power before
Just saying, these amps claim to have constant power irregardless of frequencies and ohms, music is dynamic with numerous different frequencies each at different ohms, how is that possible, would love to know. The amp I will be using is the RF punch 800a2, can wire the subwoofer at 8ohm or 2ohm, just want great sq and efficiency and of course don't wanna damage the subwoofer but in theory wired at 2ohm the amp is gonna require twice the amperage to produce the same amount of watts as 8ohm but will definitely decrease impedance rise and will also affect sq
If you were asking me I’m no expert but my thinking is that there is less noticeable spl increase per additional wattage at higher power. Like going from 100-200w is a big difference but you probably wouldn’t notice going from 800-900. Again, just guessing.
That amp should provide a ton of power and sound good either way. I’ve run it’s smaller brother at a 1 ohm load with no problems
Great video. But why does the impedance rise and how does one compensate??
The less cone control the more impedance rise. Try to only play music within your enclosures tuning frequency. Or really focus on your crossover points on the amplifier or DSP
It would be nice to see the DC voltage during those dyno tests. Lose a couple volts then you lose a few hundred watts potentially. Each amp is 2000 watts but at what Ohm load? Im assuming they are 1 Ohm Stable(4000 watts total)but strapped probably 2 Ohm minimum(2000 watts total).
Getting 1400 watts makes sense. You dont probably have an upgraded alternator or extra deep cycle batteries. What size is your power wire? How good are your connections and did you upgrade your battery ground? I see where your 600 missing watts are going.
Ohm load rises when you move the woofer. Each frequency will change the Ohm load. Plug your meter into the sub and move it with your hand. The ohm load changes. Ive never heard of ohm rise lol. I dont think thats a thing.
efficiency is more important than watts.
You need to check the voltage at the rcas and see if the factory headunit and line Output converter you are using is providing the voltage you need. Somewhere in the 1.4 volt to 5v range. I bet you are at like .7 volts or somewhere in that range at the rca
12:40 If I'm not mistaken, I thought you had to put one wire (or 1 polarity) through the SMD AMM-1 hole?
My speaker cable are each, dual 10Gauge wires.
Yup, this is why I ended up buying the Orion HCCA 3000.1
Same
Steve Mead will challenge you to get louder than him with 412s while he uses a single eight if you talk s*** to him lol
😄
What voltage output do u have from you Lc2 set at?
I’m using LC7 and I’m trying to figure out what output voltage I need to set mine to my sub amp,also do I set my gains on my LC7i first then my amp gain?thanks
Yes set the gain of the lc7i first, you can set the voltage to whatever you want on the outputs of the lc7i as long as it’s LOWER than the maximum input voltage your amplifier can handle. For example of your amp can only handle 5 vrms of input, don’t set it above 5 volts. Also keep in mind the higher you set the gain on the lc7i the lower you will set your gain on your amplifiers. Hope this helps
Great vid! What program do you use to edit your vids and do all the extra stuff on vid? I’m a newbie with whole editing videos thing.
Thanks
OBS Studio
Thank you sir 😎
@0:21 why do you have them facing sideways? anytime I’ve tried facing them backwards is always the loudest
Tony Dmore was a engineer at Rockford Fosgate Steve mead was a sponsored car audio guy back when big systems were only in cars sponsored by the big audio company's when Steve went on his own he got with Tony and they made quite a few different things besides Tony has his own line of Amos and other car audio stuff that came out last year . He is also behind the amps Fosgate made when they were making there mark in the car audio game
Wow. I knew none of that. Thanks for sharing.
It hurt me to see the factory head unit. Are there any other upgrades? Multiple runs of OFC?, Grounds?, H/O Alt?, Secondary Batt?, AGM or LITH?, Quality RCAs?, So many questions.
Ay oh.. my man and these vids👊.. i wanna run this on my set up..
(2) pair Wolfram c2400s @ 1 ohm (.5 per amp)
4th order bandpass blowthru .. (4) EvL d4 12s..
That sounds like a good setup.
Grabbed a 150 from it this year .. super happy with it. Thanks man.. 👊
I have the same dual subs with a skar 1200 watt amp, would u suggest getting a better amp ? Possible 2000 watt, would the dual 12’s handle that power?
You would certainly benefit from it 😃
Bro where are you located? I got that same impala I want put some music in but don't know how. I can wire up an old school but not this new school yet
I'll be giving a tutorial in an upcoming video.
Use a sealed box and a phoenix gold bass cube... 30hz is usually too low for ports and sound better sealed. Especially with and old school pg bass cube
Ok I have a 2018 malibu & I purchased the lci2 pro now I ask cause I see you have one now I'm trying to find out howto video on howto go about hooking this thing up nicely do you have videos I can look up on doing this I'm a visual learner thanks & appreciated 👍
I have the 2016 Malibu Limited, don't know which model you have, but I do have an upcoming video on the PAC LC2i. Should be out in a week or 2.
I have the 2018 LT model & I had this lci2 pro for a while now in the box still ,cause either I find a visual video on howto install this or I find someone to install it some how 🤔?
U should turn the bass all the way down on the head unit, there should be no bass coming from ur door speakers... try re-doing ur gains with the bass turned down on the head unit and see how it goes
why is t at 7ohm? i know box rise hurt but what are you wire to?
Also what kind of signal conversion are you using with your factory radio
AudioControl LC2i
Nice!!!
Thanks!
@@BudgetBassHead soon I might try this I find how to solve box rise is to wire low you should lower your ohms. I used to have 2 strapped 2000 watt Hifonics amps wired to half ohms! That's .25 per amp but after box rise it's probably was still over 1ohms per amp😂🔊🔊
This is why new subwoofers are coming out dual 1 ohm and dual 2 ohm only. You will see less dual 4 ohm setups.
I tried explaining that to a audio shop in in Diana that sells only d4 ohm subwoofers
but 4ohms sounds so much better tho, you get better sound quality if thats what youre after
Research and development for ultimate sq speakers has come to a halt around a decade ago. JL audio, Focal, and Polk audio are not to popular as they were before. They are making balanced loud speakers now. I have Rockford Power amp on a Polk Signature Reference sub 12 and to newer 12's, the newer subs are better to jam to. My sundown U 12 to be exact. Just my opinion.
Yup I have soundstream sub that is dual 1 ohm coils sure loves more power right now she getting 1000rms by herself
@@juliobello4561 not with impedance rise that’s what the whole video is about! Trying to brag when it’s probably only getting 350-500 watts w rise
Doesnt the gain have to be adjusted while connected to the subs so you can see if its a clean signal under load and if the amo could supply it due to good or bad electricals
No. Subs unhooked while oscope measures power to clipping
Welp so far a lot of misinformation has gotten me confused I have a audiopipe 1300 mono wit a solo baric L7 s 10 sub I'm trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong but I'm told it sounds good and I guess I'm wanting it more clearer I can't tell if it's clipping or not due to my hearing so therefore do I need smd dd1 ? or jus go with what they say it sounds good 🤔 I'm 55 & not getting any younger but still a basshead tho lol
What test tune app are u using
how about using *bass boost* to fight against that spot? *Only a little* , will it improve without distortion?
that would actually be a great suggestion if I hadn't already uninstalled 😀 Thanks for the tip.
This is why playing at tuning and tuning to where you play is very important. This will minimize impedance rise. A well thought out system will take full advantage.
The thing to note is playing a tone at half thr impedance will raise you final load to what your amp can handle, but this is hard on thr amp. Also, for any burst from a dead stop, the amp sees this nominal, lower load. .5 ohm for example.
Also use the Liumy M2020. It has a much higher resolution.
Where are you located and, how to you get flat paks from you?
Nobody saying nothing about the Audiocontrol Line output converter. He probably doesn't have it set up correctly to his head unit since it being a stock head unit from GM. He should really think about what kind of voltage is coming out of that line output converter. This will affect a lot and I wonder if it's ever clipping out of the head unit. He has to start there first and then worry about the amps. It's the only way to be sure.
Also what about his power? I haven't seen his installation videos or anything like that but he has to make sure that he's getting enough power to those amps. In this video I just don't see adequate power wires. I mean did he do the big three? Does he have a second battery? Does he have a good ground? It could be a lot of factors that can inhibit the power coming out of those amps. Last thing I'm worried about is ohms.
Agreed
Taramps 3 fixes box rise, people say? I didn't think there was a difference wiring 2, 1, or 0.5 ohms because they're all rated same power. So I thought oh I'll just wire to 1 ohm and prolong the amp life. Now I'm hearing about inowdence rise. And of how on that same 3k watts, due to impedance rise, my 1 ohm wiring could still be seeing almost half the power that 0.5 ohm could be seeing because it's able to rise so much higher during music? Am I figuring this correctly? And now these two XFL dual voice coil 4 ohm I'm staring and thinking I just bottleneck my system by not buying the 2 ohm versions so they can go to 0.5 ohms. Am I overreacting or is that a significant miscalculation I made, and should I send them back if I want to get the most out of this taramps? If they're at 1 ohm, they can only go to double that during music while maintaining 3k watts at 2 ohms. But, I'm seeing they routinely rise 2-4x whole playing music? That means that at points where I'm at let's say 4 ohms during music, I'll be seeing a maximum of what the amp is rated at 4 ohms (taramps smart 3 bass I think is 1700). That's almost half the power. Or, should I stick with 1 ohm because I do hear these taramps can burn up on people sometimes. Maybe I'd be less loud, but safer at 1 ohm. Help and feedback much appreciated. Keep in mind, I'm not talking 'good enough'. True what I have maybe good enough. But if I'm going to spend all this money I want to make sure I'm maxing it's capabilities. If you think I should return them and wire to 0.5 ohms, or if you don't think I'll see that much benefit, please help and let me know.