I just installed your first 2 passive radiators and nvx dual 4’s 12’s. At 2 ohms running 1000 watts in my 2018 tahoe!!! And love it!! Hella low end punch!!
@stevo3175- You may have worded your comment wrong? If you have 2- 12" w/d4 coils, your wiring options per pair of 12s are, 16 ohms, 4 ohms, or 1 ohm. You can't have a 2 ohm load.
@@ashcoleman8866 - So either stevo3175 miss-typed, or they have multiple powered nvx 12s? Also, anyone commenting about passive radiators, SHOULD know that a passive= Non-powered= No direct impedance @ rest. Another fact that many get wrong about passive radiators, is that you DO NOT necessarily need 2x the cone area of the powered woofer. The passive radiator need's to have @ least 2x, the air displacement capability, of the powered woofer= NOT the same thing. Example: If 1 powered 12" woofer has 25 mm of 1 way Linear X Max=(50 mm total, Linear X Max), or (Less), then you would only require 1- Earthquake Slaps, 12" passive radiator, as this radiator can provide just over 2x the air displacement= a MASSIVE 101 mm, of Total X Max! This is what is so innovative about these Earthquake Slaps units.
I absolutely love the Earthquake Magma subwoofers from the late 90s. I held onto a pair of 15"s for as long as I could. They eventually sagged & locked up entirely after about 20 years of almost constant use. I always wanted to put both of my 15" Magmas into a box with 4 of the 15" Earthquake passive radiators...but I'm clueless as to how to properly implement the passive radiators into my builds. I'm not the brightest guy when it comes to designing enclosures to begin with...but still have never purchased a pre-built one. It was two decades full of sealed boxes & slot ports over the years for this guy...til I finally figured out how to use aeros....
I got the 12 Magma in the late 90s I still use it every day, but I don't push it to hard anymore. When they first came out they had dual 3 ohm voice coils, around 2 years later they changed the basket, the center cap, and started using dual 4 ohm voice coils. EARTHQUAKE made in the USA
I have one of these passives running with a grs 12" "high excursion" sub in my home theater. It plays flat down to 20 hz and shakes the floor of my house on 100 watts. Your first video on these is where I learned about them
@BudgetBassHead- Great video. All though doing sweeps @ Lower, to mid volume, is safer on the equipment, than doing full volume sweeps, most of the time shows false peaks. It is much better to use test tones, @ mid volume( + make sure that each tone is held for the same time, like if you hold the 1st tone for 2 full seconds, then do that for every test tone ) start trying with a 30 Hz test tone, going up to 65 Hz, 1 freq. @ a time, as this covers the possible peaks of 99% of all regular vehicle builds. When you do find your mid volume, ( full 2 second held ) test tone peak, you should also test 1 freq., below, & 1 freq., above this peak freq., when going for Max SPL Scores, as Power can, & does change the resonant freq. of a vehicle, "If enough Power is used". Lastly, i would imagine you could hot glue/epoxy that weight back on your damaged passive, and just use a big washer under the bolt head sticking out of the front of your damaged passive radiator. Hope this helps, & can't wait for your next video, & great choice on your New Amplifier😎!
I still have my 2 Earthquake Magma12 Subwoofers which those passive radiators were paired to back in the days. I never had the chance to acquire 2 passive radiators to hear how the 2 Magma12 would've sounded in my 91 Civic Hatchback.
Just finishing a small form factor setup with 5.25" subs and prs in my single cab. Haven't gotten to tuning yet, but think I'm gonna be pretty happy with it.
You could make 3/4 inch PR rings on the enclosure. That way when you reach max excursion on your PRs they do not come close the the sub magnet which can also tear the bolt / weights out
I was considering buying those passive radiators but I decided to go ported instead. I bought a 2 10 sealed box and drilled baffles through the wall separating the air chambers and blocked the other chamber with a 12x12x1 plywood plank. I then drilled a hole through the plank to make a round port tuned to 28hz. I could've gone either way but I'm glad I got to see how you set yours up. Looks killer
At least earthquake has made changes to their passive. The original passive was on their ht sub enclosure and it was a 12in without the motor it had a cardboard tube insted of voice coil and of course non adjustable. The subs they used was the magma 12's exact same car audio sub just sold as home theater wired to 2ohm.
man your videos are so informative, thorough and professional !!!!!!!! Keep up the work bruh. You tinker and experiment wayyyy more than me. I didn't even know that was possible.The difference is, you know what you doing. I try something that ends being, "oh s@@t I shouldn't of done that!!! hahaha. Love your videos.
I was hoping you would have repeated the tests that you've done previously with the Single Radiators before going full tilt, but I understand the anxiety to send it out of the gate 😂. Ive had great success with a 2.25cf per sub on low power, like you did in your previous vid, and I'm waiting to see what you do next. 👍
After a added 2 10inch earthquake PR to my under the seat sealed 10inch shallow mount Skar Sub box by drilling out to holes for them it really kicks now at the low end and feels more alive. Space is an issue, so ports are a no go plus I hate ports anyway. To boomy for me and not accurate enough for most other music other than rap music
Do you use your PRs in accordance to the suggested sizes on the instruction manual? I will be tackling that 4th order PR box next as it says (per instructions) the front section only needs to be .75cf to reach 42hz. Thats astounding. Box wont even be 20 deep😏 Awesome video again. Thank you for your creations!
All cool and stuff. I was thinking of converting my sealed box to PR box but sadly I can't justify the cost. Not only I need a 15" PR which already costs similar to some cheap subs. But still need DSP to EQ it properly for flatter response as my sub gets peaky around 50-70hz. If I built a new box the size of a ported box then I would also need two PR's to get a nice flat response. And still ported box out performs it. If PR cost like 50 bucks I wouldn't really care and would go with it just to save myself from building a ported box.
I have been kicking around the idea of a 6th order that uses passive radiators rather than ports. I'm not expecting it to be superior but it seems like it could open up some interesting options for smaller areas. Even if it isn't great, sometimes its fun to do something just to see if you can.
The best passive radiator design that I know of are by two designers...one is by TC Sounds and the other is by Stereo Integrity. The one my SI I believe he never put it into production but he has a white paper and design you can look at.
For my next setup I'm going to try to get 2 of those nvx vwc in the 15s. The 12s you've had get loud and they look nice and clean. What are you running for mids and highs? Sorry if you've answered that in a video already. I'm thinking about going nvx on whole system and wanted some feedback on nvx midrange speakers. Thanks for the videos, I'm learning quite a bit from your content 👍🔊🔊
@@bojow8102 I just installed their 6 x 9 premium component system; for my front stage. It's amazing. Video coming soon. NVX® XSP69KIT 6x9 Car Speakers,... www.amazon.com/dp/B0CJJZ53NS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
@@BudgetBassHead Cool 👍 I'm thinking I'm going to get their component set for my front and coaxial for the back. Thank you for the reply and I will definitely watch the upcoming video.
Just subbed up. I'm going to be building a custom center console for my short cab truck with either a 6.5“ or 8“ sub inside. A PR should help get some more low end extension on the small speakers and small enclosure.
I'm running a single nvxvcw122v3 currently and I'm wanting to play with these radiators to get gains .. my question to you is this , would I gain more with this woofer using a sealed box with a couple of those radiators vs. a ported box built specifically for this woofer ??
Those passive cone bolt may just need a washer to spread out some force and have a smooth round clamping area, vs the sharp edges of the bolts only. Just my stupid idea. Love your videos!
@TurboJohn74- Those passives have a very strong cone, i have seen a video of them getting kicked, & they were fine. @ the end of this video, he showed how it broke= it moved far enough, to hit that center bolt, on the subwoofers magnet! But yes, prob. Some epoxy, & using a huge washer, under that outside bolt head, should work. Then if he made spacers for the passives, to give adequate clearance, it should work?
@@BudgetBassHead I still have my six budget 12s with a passive radiator on each pair. I still have my demo video posted. I was thinking of getting another three radiators and mounting them on the bottom of the box with a three or four inch gap panel.
So excuse my ignorance but you run an active sub with a passive radiator so the passive radiator gets hooked up to the amp as well ? Do you wire it parallel with the active sub ? Or does it just go in the box with the active sub and not get any wires hooked up ? I’m not fully grasping how these work . I’m not really seeing how it’s saving any space either . Those enclosures are looking pretty large .
@@trickheaddd the passive radiator is just a cone of a subwoofer it has no magnet it has no voice coil. And the ones that I use don't even have a basket to attached to them
The primary drawback for PR is the added cost. The advantages outweigh the cost, in my opinion. I get fantastic sound quality and a flat response down to mid 20s from a single 10".
@@Satch_4_Hogs But what is the cost of a 12 inch subwoofer that has 4 inches of X-Max? The JL Audio W7-12 is $1,500 after taxes. The Sundown Audio X series 12 is around $700. I understand what you are saying, about your setup; but in my setup, the PR is practically paying for themselves.
I dont think the extra cone area of the PR is doing what u think in helping spl. Its my understanding the PR's allow you to achieve a lower tuning freq in a smaller enclosure. Their impact on spl purely from cone area may not apply because a PR is alway out of phase from the driver unit & some deconstructive interference may result.
@Forcefed2002- This is why passives perform better when placed on opposite sides of the powered woofer= NOT on the same plain. You can go for a deeper bass extension, by using the bare minimum, requirements, of passive radiators. Or you can raise the tuning of the enclosure, by adding more passives, & this should gain SPL, as long as the New tuning freq., is not too high. Testing is the key.
@@ajmartinez8163 it's easier to tune a passive radiator. Once you build a port you would have to use cutting tools to Lengthen or shorten it for tuning.
5:40 Whoa whoa whoa. The ambient noise level of your vehicle with the air conditioner running is 120dB? That sounds way off. Mine with the AC fan on low is 75dB. This is mostly low frequency related rumble. By 200hz it's dropped to 50dB and by 1k it's under 35dB. This is measured near headrest. 120dB is quite loud. You might want to look into why that meter is reading so high.
@BudgetBassHead Ah, so there's some kind of low frequency rumble going on that's magnified in the footwell area. Interesting. Next time I have my rta out I'll do some testing in the footwell area. 👍
@@MilGrip76Correct, if the noise was under 120, it would not register at all. So he's probably got some sort of low frequency vibration at ten or fifteen hertz. I don't know of any other way the meter could pick up a reading in his footwell, without sound system on.
I dont like the idea of building a solid sub box and then have a large part of it being cheap plastic. I mean, there's a reason why we make speakers from as stiff of a material as possible and that aint it. Great video though!
@@OlaJustin I understand what you're saying is makes a lot of sense when discussing speaker terminals. But in this case the plastic is part of the moving Mass.
@@BudgetBassHead Absolutely, but I still feel that it will wobble and bend, causing distortion. Or? Not that distortion is a big problem in bass... Certainly not buro runs, but still... that plastic seems a bit too flimsy. But I realise I might be wrong. Looking forward for follow ups! :)
At what number of passive radiators or area becomes diminishing returns ? I have a 2cu ft box 12" EMF Banhammer DVC 2ohms on a Apocolypse AAK6000.1 @ 1ohms Im interested in buying 2 Earthquake 12" pumps.. Will strip pumps & add one radiator at a time to my enclosure & measure after each additional radiator What are your thoughts ? Advice ?
I think that as long as there is enough compression to activate the PRs, then you should gain from it. The draw back will be group delay. So you'd have to keep the internal volume small enough for accuracy.
- Using passives for gaining SPL, is much different than using them for deep bass. The less passive radiators you run( within mech. Limits ) the lower tuned the enclosure can be. As you add passive radiators, the tunning keeps raising. So if your vehicle is Loudest @ 45Hz, & you keep adding passive radiators till your enclosure is tuned to 55Hz, then you have gone too far/used to many passive radiators, or your enclosure is too small, or the combination of these two reasons. Hope this helps?
@@evilinside5984 this is true. I learned this while experimenting a while ago. WinISD also shows this, which is why all PRs have the weights installed and are still tuned quite high.
@@BudgetBassHead -You can't beat the size of your enclosure, vs the output, it is Awesome! Are you going to make spacer rings for the passive radiators, so they won't make contact with the subwoofers magnet? Will hot glue, or epoxy be able to fix your passive? Plus maybe use a Large washer, under the bolt head, on the outside passives cone/front? Was the response curve flatter, and went a little deeper, with 2 passives, vs 4? Also what was the Db difference 2 passives, vs 4? Can't wait for your next video.
I had 2-12 ground zero nuclears with 2-15 in passives back in the day with custom enclosures and that system would break windshields literally... my next system will be sumtn similar but way louder😂 radiators ftw!!!
@@pay2play456 I remember when GZ first came out forever ago. Their "things" were the massive surrounds (pretty rare at the time) and passive radiators. Easily loudest subs i had ever hear up until that point. I think i still have along out of business local shops old flyer with pricing (retail) for the GZ's. Ill have to look for that.
30hz vs 50hz is a big difference alot of guys doing burps at 50hz+ with 150spl its not that hard but anything over 140spl at 30hz is impressive This setup hits low 💪
@@Ramb1t0I did a 139.5@20hz on a single 12 with 900 watts clamped in the trunk. That was on the glass btw. 140+ at 30 and below isn’t that hard to obtain.
@@scottbe1 Well i always say its in the hands of the builder and also we have to take into account this is a sedan too. So i say judge according to the mans building skills and then also just note the Sedan aspect, point is this is decent and more a experimental build then a must i say 1x12/15 or 2x12 or 2x15s is the best all round options if space is there.
@@scottbe1 Got any vids of the single 12 floating shiz everywhere? A acquaintance of mine has done similar and or louder numbers then yours with single 12s he likes doing it with all kinds of subs.
@@lee28.78 the things we have been lead to believing... 🙁 Don't believe the marketing hype of oversized speaker wire. At this short distance, while burping, parallel to parallel 12 gauge is fine. You literally just seen me pump 6,000 Watts through this system, there were no burned wires, there were no burned voice coils, there were no overheating of the amplifier. Besides, the push terminals only accept up to 10 gauge. So to dual wire, use 12 gauge.
As always great content, videos, audio, lessons, tutorial, honesty & humbleness
I appreciate that!
I just installed your first 2 passive radiators and nvx dual 4’s 12’s. At 2 ohms running 1000 watts in my 2018 tahoe!!! And love it!! Hella low end punch!!
@stevo3175- You may have worded your comment wrong? If you have 2- 12" w/d4 coils, your wiring options per pair of 12s are, 16 ohms, 4 ohms, or 1 ohm. You can't have a 2 ohm load.
@@evilinside5984 i have 1 dual 4 ohm 12 inch. And 2 earthquake slaps radiators
2 passive = o ohm and 1 dual 4 ohm woofer wire options 1 coil 4, and utilizing both coils either 8 or 2 he would be correct 👍🏽
@@ashcoleman8866 - So either stevo3175 miss-typed, or they have multiple powered nvx 12s? Also, anyone commenting about passive radiators, SHOULD know that a passive= Non-powered= No direct impedance @ rest. Another fact that many get wrong about passive radiators, is that you DO NOT necessarily need 2x the cone area of the powered woofer. The passive radiator need's to have @ least 2x, the air displacement capability, of the powered woofer= NOT the same thing. Example: If 1 powered 12" woofer has 25 mm of 1 way Linear X Max=(50 mm total, Linear X Max), or (Less), then you would only require 1- Earthquake Slaps, 12" passive radiator, as this radiator can provide just over 2x the air displacement= a MASSIVE 101 mm, of Total X Max! This is what is so innovative about these Earthquake Slaps units.
I absolutely love the Earthquake Magma subwoofers from the late 90s. I held onto a pair of 15"s for as long as I could. They eventually sagged & locked up entirely after about 20 years of almost constant use.
I always wanted to put both of my 15" Magmas into a box with 4 of the 15" Earthquake passive radiators...but I'm clueless as to how to properly implement the passive radiators into my builds. I'm not the brightest guy when it comes to designing enclosures to begin with...but still have never purchased a pre-built one. It was two decades full of sealed boxes & slot ports over the years for this guy...til I finally figured out how to use aeros....
I got the 12 Magma in the late 90s I still use it every day, but I don't push it to hard anymore. When they first came out they had dual 3 ohm voice coils, around 2 years later they changed the basket, the center cap, and started using dual 4 ohm voice coils. EARTHQUAKE made in the USA
I have one of these passives running with a grs 12" "high excursion" sub in my home theater. It plays flat down to 20 hz and shakes the floor of my house on 100 watts. Your first video on these is where I learned about them
@@elikirkwood4580 glad I was able to help!
@BudgetBassHead- Great video. All though doing sweeps @ Lower, to mid volume, is safer on the equipment, than doing full volume sweeps, most of the time shows false peaks. It is much better to use test tones, @ mid volume( + make sure that each tone is held for the same time, like if you hold the 1st tone for 2 full seconds, then do that for every test tone ) start trying with a 30 Hz test tone, going up to 65 Hz, 1 freq. @ a time, as this covers the possible peaks of 99% of all regular vehicle builds. When you do find your mid volume, ( full 2 second held ) test tone peak, you should also test 1 freq., below, & 1 freq., above this peak freq., when going for Max SPL Scores, as Power can, & does change the resonant freq. of a vehicle, "If enough Power is used". Lastly, i would imagine you could hot glue/epoxy that weight back on your damaged passive, and just use a big washer under the bolt head sticking out of the front of your damaged passive radiator. Hope this helps, & can't wait for your next video, & great choice on your New Amplifier😎!
Keep the PR tests coming! 🔥
Will do!
I've always used passive radiators in boxes in single cab trucks with shallow mount subs. Works excellent in smaller boxes.
Thank you, that has me convinced on the effectiveness of a passive radiator. I need to revise my box set up when the budget permits.
The Bass Pump looks super interesting!
Love that folded horn enclosure!
I still have my 2 Earthquake Magma12 Subwoofers which those passive radiators were paired to back in the days. I never had the chance to acquire 2 passive radiators to hear how the 2 Magma12 would've sounded in my 91 Civic Hatchback.
Just finishing a small form factor setup with 5.25" subs and prs in my single cab. Haven't gotten to tuning yet, but think I'm gonna be pretty happy with it.
Great video! Thanks for the great info and content
You could make 3/4 inch PR rings on the enclosure. That way when you reach max excursion on your PRs they do not come close the the sub magnet which can also tear the bolt / weights out
I was considering buying those passive radiators but I decided to go ported instead. I bought a 2 10 sealed box and drilled baffles through the wall separating the air chambers and blocked the other chamber with a 12x12x1 plywood plank. I then drilled a hole through the plank to make a round port tuned to 28hz.
I could've gone either way but I'm glad I got to see how you set yours up. Looks killer
I'm trying to understand what you're saying. Did you say that you put a port in between the two chambers?
At least earthquake has made changes to their passive. The original passive was on their ht sub enclosure and it was a 12in without the motor it had a cardboard tube insted of voice coil and of course non adjustable. The subs they used was the magma 12's exact same car audio sub just sold as home theater wired to 2ohm.
man your videos are so informative, thorough and professional !!!!!!!! Keep up the work bruh. You tinker and experiment wayyyy more than me. I didn't even know that was possible.The difference is, you know what you doing. I try something that ends being, "oh s@@t I shouldn't of done that!!! hahaha. Love your videos.
Hard to beat a good ol fashion 20 per port 👍. Cool video tho as always man .. love your testing
I was hoping you would have repeated the tests that you've done previously with the Single Radiators before going full tilt, but I understand the anxiety to send it out of the gate 😂. Ive had great success with a 2.25cf per sub on low power, like you did in your previous vid, and I'm waiting to see what you do next. 👍
After a added 2 10inch earthquake PR to my under the seat sealed 10inch shallow mount Skar Sub box by drilling out to holes for them it really kicks now at the low end and feels more alive. Space is an issue, so ports are a no go plus I hate ports anyway. To boomy for me and not accurate enough for most other music other than rap music
I'm putting a system together and I've always liked sealed boxes. I know it won't be as loud but I think it'll sound better.
@@Chromedome-ss6mg sealed enclosures have more accuracy.
Do you use your PRs in accordance to the suggested sizes on the instruction manual? I will be tackling that 4th order PR box next as it says (per instructions) the front section only needs to be .75cf to reach 42hz. Thats astounding. Box wont even be 20 deep😏 Awesome video again. Thank you for your creations!
All cool and stuff. I was thinking of converting my sealed box to PR box but sadly I can't justify the cost. Not only I need a 15" PR which already costs similar to some cheap subs. But still need DSP to EQ it properly for flatter response as my sub gets peaky around 50-70hz. If I built a new box the size of a ported box then I would also need two PR's to get a nice flat response. And still ported box out performs it.
If PR cost like 50 bucks I wouldn't really care and would go with it just to save myself from building a ported box.
Love these passive radiator videos very interesting
Watched till the end. Thanks for the explanation for the damage. Ill have to watch for that myself
What is the exact model of your nvx subwoofers
Thanks for all your Work 👍💯
I have been kicking around the idea of a 6th order that uses passive radiators rather than ports. I'm not expecting it to be superior but it seems like it could open up some interesting options for smaller areas. Even if it isn't great, sometimes its fun to do something just to see if you can.
Another informative video! 👍👍
The best passive radiator design that I know of are by two designers...one is by TC Sounds and the other is by Stereo Integrity. The one my SI I believe he never put it into production but he has a white paper and design you can look at.
For my next setup I'm going to try to get 2 of those nvx vwc in the 15s. The 12s you've had get loud and they look nice and clean.
What are you running for mids and highs? Sorry if you've answered that in a video already. I'm thinking about going nvx on whole system and wanted some feedback on nvx midrange speakers.
Thanks for the videos, I'm learning quite a bit from your content 👍🔊🔊
@@bojow8102 I just installed their 6 x 9 premium component system; for my front stage. It's amazing. Video coming soon.
NVX® XSP69KIT 6x9 Car Speakers,...
www.amazon.com/dp/B0CJJZ53NS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
@@BudgetBassHead Cool 👍
I'm thinking I'm going to get their component set for my front and coaxial for the back.
Thank you for the reply and I will definitely watch the upcoming video.
Just subbed up. I'm going to be building a custom center console for my short cab truck with either a 6.5“ or 8“ sub inside. A PR should help get some more low end extension on the small speakers and small enclosure.
I'm running a single nvxvcw122v3 currently and I'm wanting to play with these radiators to get gains .. my question to you is this , would I gain more with this woofer using a sealed box with a couple of those radiators vs. a ported box built specifically for this woofer ??
Clean dawg i love it
I'm curious what the fix is gonna be, looks super tight in there as it is now.
Those passive cone bolt may just need a washer to spread out some force and have a smooth round clamping area, vs the sharp edges of the bolts only. Just my stupid idea. Love your videos!
@TurboJohn74- Those passives have a very strong cone, i have seen a video of them getting kicked, & they were fine. @ the end of this video, he showed how it broke= it moved far enough, to hit that center bolt, on the subwoofers magnet! But yes, prob. Some epoxy, & using a huge washer, under that outside bolt head, should work. Then if he made spacers for the passives, to give adequate clearance, it should work?
Great setup and video editing! Are you going to mess with the weights in the radiators to adjust the frequency response?
That's the plan!
@@BudgetBassHead I still have my six budget 12s with a passive radiator on each pair. I still have my demo video posted. I was thinking of getting another three radiators and mounting them on the bottom of the box with a three or four inch gap panel.
I use these exact passive radiators with 10 inch powered subs in my home theater system. The setup gets stupid deep.
Thanks for your chanel 🤝
💯
Can we see a small driver with larger passive radiator
I have 1 custom 18 and 2 15” earthquake passives going in a sealed 3.0 cf truck box.
@@1sickfiestast618 that's going to be epic! That's a lot of cone area
So excuse my ignorance but you run an active sub with a passive radiator so the passive radiator gets hooked up to the amp as well ? Do you wire it parallel with the active sub ? Or does it just go in the box with the active sub and not get any wires hooked up ? I’m not fully grasping how these work . I’m not really seeing how it’s saving any space either . Those enclosures are looking pretty large .
@@trickheaddd the passive radiator is just a cone of a subwoofer it has no magnet it has no voice coil. And the ones that I use don't even have a basket to attached to them
The primary drawback for PR is the added cost. The advantages outweigh the cost, in my opinion. I get fantastic sound quality and a flat response down to mid 20s from a single 10".
@@Satch_4_Hogs But what is the cost of a 12 inch subwoofer that has 4 inches of X-Max? The JL Audio W7-12 is $1,500 after taxes. The Sundown Audio X series 12 is around $700. I understand what you are saying, about your setup; but in my setup, the PR is practically paying for themselves.
@@BudgetBassHead I'm not sure you understood what I said.
@@Satch_4_Hogs oh, my bad.
@@BudgetBassHead4 inches xmax? On 4:50 it says 20mm
I dont think the extra cone area of the PR is doing what u think in helping spl. Its my understanding the PR's allow you to achieve a lower tuning freq in a smaller enclosure.
Their impact on spl purely from cone area may not apply because a PR is alway out of phase from the driver unit & some deconstructive interference may result.
@Forcefed2002- This is why passives perform better when placed on opposite sides of the powered woofer= NOT on the same plain. You can go for a deeper bass extension, by using the bare minimum, requirements, of passive radiators. Or you can raise the tuning of the enclosure, by adding more passives, & this should gain SPL, as long as the New tuning freq., is not too high. Testing is the key.
I'm fairly new and was wondering if their is a benefit of this verse a port besides space...trying to learn
@@ajmartinez8163 it's easier to tune a passive radiator. Once you build a port you would have to use cutting tools to Lengthen or shorten it for tuning.
This doesn't cause Phase issues,?
@@ufarkingicehole no. The passive radiator uses the back wave (from the rear of the subwoofer). The same as a ported enclosure.
Add a washer to the front of the bolt and it should prevent it from happening again
Just add more passive radiators to prevent unloading/over excursion.
I have ? Can I run 2 15inch subs wit 1 radiator or 2? What's the best way for 2 15s
I would do 2 18 in passives
@@pay2play456 ok thanks
In the right box, those subs will hit the same, radiators or not
The goal is space saving.
5:40 Whoa whoa whoa. The ambient noise level of your vehicle with the air conditioner running is 120dB?
That sounds way off. Mine with the AC fan on low is 75dB. This is mostly low frequency related rumble. By 200hz it's dropped to 50dB and by 1k it's under 35dB. This is measured near headrest.
120dB is quite loud. You might want to look into why that meter is reading so high.
Is measuring that high because it's in the footwell near the engine.
@BudgetBassHead Ah, so there's some kind of low frequency rumble going on that's magnified in the footwell area. Interesting. Next time I have my rta out I'll do some testing in the footwell area. 👍
@BudgetBassHead no... per the sheet and specs, minimum value the meter will show, is 120, will not register at 75dB, nor 100dB, only 120 to max.
@@MilGrip76Correct, if the noise was under 120, it would not register at all. So he's probably got some sort of low frequency vibration at ten or fifteen hertz.
I don't know of any other way the meter could pick up a reading in his footwell, without sound system on.
Nice bro
How can I reach you for a design
email me: thebudgetbasshead@gmail.com
I dont like the idea of building a solid sub box and then have a large part of it being cheap plastic. I mean, there's a reason why we make speakers from as stiff of a material as possible and that aint it.
Great video though!
@@OlaJustin I understand what you're saying is makes a lot of sense when discussing speaker terminals. But in this case the plastic is part of the moving Mass.
@@BudgetBassHead Absolutely, but I still feel that it will wobble and bend, causing distortion. Or?
Not that distortion is a big problem in bass... Certainly not buro runs, but still... that plastic seems a bit too flimsy.
But I realise I might be wrong.
Looking forward for follow ups! :)
move the front seats and fold them. maybe you get a better score ;D
Don’t trust the bolt thru the center of the cone on the Earthquake radiators. Looks like a failure point, just like you saw.
👍👍
At what number of passive radiators or area becomes diminishing returns ?
I have a 2cu ft box
12" EMF Banhammer DVC 2ohms on a Apocolypse AAK6000.1 @ 1ohms
Im interested in buying 2 Earthquake 12" pumps..
Will strip pumps & add one radiator at a time to my enclosure & measure after each additional radiator
What are your thoughts ?
Advice ?
I think that as long as there is enough compression to activate the PRs, then you should gain from it. The draw back will be group delay. So you'd have to keep the internal volume small enough for accuracy.
- Using passives for gaining SPL, is much different than using them for deep bass. The less passive radiators you run( within mech. Limits ) the lower tuned the enclosure can be. As you add passive radiators, the tunning keeps raising. So if your vehicle is Loudest @ 45Hz, & you keep adding passive radiators till your enclosure is tuned to 55Hz, then you have gone too far/used to many passive radiators, or your enclosure is too small, or the combination of these two reasons. Hope this helps?
@@evilinside5984 this is true. I learned this while experimenting a while ago. WinISD also shows this, which is why all PRs have the weights installed and are still tuned quite high.
@@BudgetBassHead -You can't beat the size of your enclosure, vs the output, it is Awesome! Are you going to make spacer rings for the passive radiators, so they won't make contact with the subwoofers magnet? Will hot glue, or epoxy be able to fix your passive? Plus maybe use a Large washer, under the bolt head, on the outside passives cone/front? Was the response curve flatter, and went a little deeper, with 2 passives, vs 4? Also what was the Db difference 2 passives, vs 4? Can't wait for your next video.
Go inverted and i say you will gain some db
Only if the increased air space, matches closer to the tuning freq. of his vehicle. Testing is the best way.
@@evilinside5984He will definitely gain. That box is already way to small for two 12's, let alone 4 pr's.
I had 2-12 ground zero nuclears with 2-15 in passives back in the day with custom enclosures and that system would break windshields literally... my next system will be sumtn similar but way louder😂 radiators ftw!!!
Psi makes radiators too
@@pay2play456 I remember when GZ first came out forever ago. Their "things" were the massive surrounds (pretty rare at the time) and passive radiators. Easily loudest subs i had ever hear up until that point. I think i still have along out of business local shops old flyer with pricing (retail) for the GZ's. Ill have to look for that.
Thanks for sharing! 👍
@pay2play456 I'm already looking into them! 👌
@@pay2play456 Psi is so SO RIDICULOUSLY OVER PRICED
I have the same car 😂
Русский привет ✌️
With 5k watts it better hit over 145 lol.
@@majicdude88 it does... Kinda
30hz vs 50hz is a big difference alot of guys doing burps at 50hz+ with 150spl its not that hard but anything over 140spl at 30hz is impressive This setup hits low 💪
@@Ramb1t0I did a 139.5@20hz on a single 12 with 900 watts clamped in the trunk. That was on the glass btw. 140+ at 30 and below isn’t that hard to obtain.
@@scottbe1 Well i always say its in the hands of the builder and also we have to take into account this is a sedan too. So i say judge according to the mans building skills and then also just note the Sedan aspect, point is this is decent and more a experimental build then a must i say 1x12/15 or 2x12 or 2x15s is the best all round options if space is there.
@@scottbe1 Got any vids of the single 12 floating shiz everywhere? A acquaintance of mine has done similar and or louder numbers then yours with single 12s he likes doing it with all kinds of subs.
Your useing 12 gauge wire for those subs? .whats wrong with you!?
Use 8 gauge! At least!
@@lee28.78 the things we have been lead to believing... 🙁 Don't believe the marketing hype of oversized speaker wire. At this short distance, while burping, parallel to parallel 12 gauge is fine. You literally just seen me pump 6,000 Watts through this system, there were no burned wires, there were no burned voice coils, there were no overheating of the amplifier. Besides, the push terminals only accept up to 10 gauge. So to dual wire, use 12 gauge.
Run a washer on top of the sub with some 2 parts epoxy to fix that passive 💯👌👍✌️🫡