Tune for mods on a Jeep is a waste of time and money. Low range is a torque multiplier and a powerful engine won’t do much but will just break stuff faster. See new Hemi motor Jeeps. 😂
I agree 100% with this. I drive a 2003 TJ 4.0 but I think for any vehicle used for overlanding or any kind of long distance off-roading. You want every inch of reliability you can possible have. If you start trying to make more power you potentially shorten your engines lift span and run the risk of having issues while in the middle of nowhere.
Upgrades can be internal as well and not just bolt on parts. I’ll be honest though I agree with this video to an extent because the factory does build an engine to last, but only in ideal conditions. Nobody and I mean nobody puts their vehicle through ideal conditions. So upgrading known factory flaws with better parts is always my recommendation, for example the oil filter housing being plastic when it should at least be aluminum. With this being said more power can be obtained by internal parts such as cams and bigger pistons also going with heavier duty parts helps(such as forged internals).
Haha, to last? You mean the good ol' cam followers with piss poor needle bearings just to name one flaw. I have seen the 3.6 fail in 4000 miles and typically they wanted the failure on or about warranty term limit.
Engineering Explained made a video with 3 air filters; OEM , Autoparts and “high performance “. The OEM filter was the one that gave better results. Test was made in a Subaru engine.
There are several air filter test out there on the web that consistently rated the NAPPA Gold air filter at the top a 2nd in line. Most of the high performance filters didn’t rate well at all.
When I was a kid, I was not a mechanic, but my brother was, but for some reason my cars always ran and my brother who was always changing things broke down a lot. Case in point? “ if it an’t broke don’t fix it”
So what your saying is drive around wide open throttle to get the most out of my cold air intake. And to tune the ECM. Got it!! Thanks for the advice 🤠
@@TraceyAllen that's the best you have. If you go to a tuner you can have them remove the progressive pedal profile and make it a linear pedal. Watch a video where it's been done, pedal is almost as fast as a standard cable throttle. Or let's just say you have a 2003 mustang, those are not throttle by wire, so your foot is the ECM programming for the pedal. If you do have a fly by wire, plenty of companies make throttle boosters. Banks makes the pedal monster. If you really want to get crazy and have the cash, you get an aftermarket ECU and have the thing mapped however you well please. Plenty of companies make trimmed down ECM/harness combos for engine swap GM/LS motors
Why? I know there are some engine parts on the 3.6 that seem prone to failure. I already had to replace my cylinder heads and gaskets under warranty. Since it was warranty there wasn’t much I could do about the choice in parts, but I read that they are aluminum and that’s why they tend to break so often and early on the Pentastar. Do you know if this is true? If so are these replacements just going to fail also and should I have chosen to install aftermarket cylinder heads that are made stronger?
K&N Air Filter and AEV Snorkel would be my response, but nothing else. I got 4 mpg increase from this and it feels more responsive when I get on it. I have the 2021 JLUR V6 Etorque.
Finally somebody that's speaking the truth I've known this for so many years I keep telling people you can do whatever aftermarket unless you change your intake and throttle and exhaust which in my opinion includes heads because if you've changed your throttle body you're throttle body is tuned to the heads to the intake and exhaust manifold and intake an exhaust valves to be tuned if you change one or the other you might as well change them all to really do something different but then again your longevity of the engine disappears
Put a turbo on and run 5 psi boost on it even without a tune you'll gain about 80% more power no matter what the ecm says until you melt a piston I tried it twice that's how I know
That don't save no Pentastar. 😂 Fantastic engines, horribly built accessory components. I sell car parts for a living, and the amount of Chrysler products I see needing oil filter housings for those 3.6's is astounding.
Here's the thing. Since the earliest vehicle with a PCM, no one is allowed to change the emmissions at idle or cruise speed. Under acceleration is entirely different. Add all the items you want, but you won't change anything about how it rolls along until you push the accelerator down. Lots of new vehicles won't accept a free flowing air filter. That's how sensitive the systems are to changes. You want to get rid of the lag in your accelerator, get a BANKS Pedal Moster.
Hey not a Jeep tech but worked on Benz for 16 years. All our cars are recommended a trans service at different interval like 39k 50k and 60k. Definatly follow Jeep's recommendations. Just worked on a 2011 Jk with 120k miles for a friend. It got its last service at 50k miles and the fluid was black and smelled burnt. And this jeep never sees off road extreme conditions.
I'm surprised by the oil filter housing comments. Do you guys not do your own oil change or not own a torque wrench? I can understand it cracking from a dumb kid at an oil change place tightening it until it won't turn anymore, but if you're doing it yourself WITH a torque wrench, you shouldn't ever crack the plastic. The torque value is low, so I can also see an owner tightening it until they feel it's "tight enough" to not leak, not realizing they smoked it down. Now, the thermostat housing being plastic...
my old 94 YJ 4.0 is still going strong. I think the engine mod question subtext though, is about the gladiator bros who wish the engine was less anemic for a truck. People WANT a big bad v8 gladiator ...but stelantis won't make one. ever. Because that would eat RAM's lunch. They can get away with it on the wrangler 392, because the Charger and Challenger don't compete in the same segment the way gladiator and RAM kinda do.
@@markboen don't have to worry about that where I live. Besides, if your cats are functioning properly, you should have no issue anyway. The amount of exhaust gases the pass through into the intake are not going to affect the smog reading that much. Especially seeing as it's only from one bank on a V-style.engine
calling BS. I've upgraded the air intake, throttle body, Exhaust, and even did a sport tune. My JK has crazy good performance. I noticed a difference with every upgrade.
If your modding a car and not tuning it of course youre not going to get the performance you expect... thats just common sense. I have modded every vehicle i have owned, and its always made them better, and more fun.
He's talking about newer Jeeps ... CJ's and YJ's simply upgrade or re-program the ECM or PCM software ... Newer Jeeps are more dependent on computer tuning while the older Jeeps can be worked on or repaired under your nearest shade tree ...
All of that is true if you don’t tune your vehicle. If you modify it then get it retuned it’ll perform better, also more airflow doesn’t necessarily mean more dust and dirt particles.
Less restrictions mean your engine can breathe better making power more efficiently, the ecm isn’t going to close the butterfly because your getting better flow.
Really what it comes down to is large horsepower numbers translate well on the street, but when you're off road, you just don't need that kind of power. You can always gear down; you got tons of room, especially on newer jeeps for that. You'll see tons of rock crawlers that still run the basic 4.0 with 1 ton axles, and they can get away with it by gearing for the job they are doing. Unless you care about street cred its just unnecessary to try and wring out horsepower on a power plant that quite frankly isn't as reliable as it used to be.
There is no “upgrading” the PCM you would have to reprogram the values inside the PCM for it to allow more air flow etc. You do this with a proper pass through device via the OBD2 port.
Ok wait a second…. I think this guy is correct. But there is a difference between older vehicles vs newer vehicles. I don’t know what the cut off is. But a guy in the comments said it best. You have to tune with upgrades
There is no point in cold air intake other than sound. It's a V6 4x4 with off road suspension and tires it's not meant to go fast they make sports cars for that.
K&N performance air filter has been dyno tested and proven to gain few HP i used them on all my vechile and very happy and satisfy with its performance
That narrows down what motor he is talking about. Either the 4.0 I6 or V6? I agree on the air filter, snorkel it if anything. And never have I seen issues with upgrades on any Motor. If your talking bolt ons. Headers, full exhaust and a re tune. Or boost.
Interesting advice! Probably pretty much true! You look at places like Africa and Australia where trucks are driven daily in very rough terrain, they might have other modes done, but they generally leave the engines alone too.
If water infiltration isnt an issue then a series of holes in air box below the filter you get a slight boost in power and bettér throttle response. Flipping airfilter lid on 96 TBI gav me 1000rpm and more power
Yes and no, better flow feeding the throttle body will improve power but only in the higher rpm range when the throttle body is more open. It allows you to realize more of the potential performance of the intake manifold and cylinder heads. But only at WOT, high rpm, or boost. The restriction of the throttle body, intake runners and valves/cam will still be there you’re just providing for maximum flow. Only boost puts more air and fuel in the cylinder for combustion. With a cold air intake, under decent acceleration you might get positive fuel trims but it’s still within the PCM parameters. I dunno what strategy is more common, throttle body metering of air or injector pulse width metering of fuel. I’d think injector pulse width is simpler even with an electronic throttle body.
I often get asked if Jeeps are reliable, because they see so many failures and breakdowns. I tell them that they ARE definitely pretty reliable IF they don't screw around with mods and add-ons. If you lift the crap out of your jeep and put huge wheels and tires on it, you're putting extra strain on the engine, transmission, axles and suspension components. You're almost 100% guaranteed to have breakages and to get stranded if you're alone.
Everything is set and controled by computer and fuel injectors. Factories are very good at setting the engines to be most reliable, most efficient. Any change is a downgrade of sorts. Hardly anything you can do except maybe a chip...
Actually this only applies to engines with fly by wire throttle bodies so if you have a cable throttle body it's possible to increase power efficiency with modifications 🎉😂
Jeep spent millions getting everything perfect and u gonna go to advanced auto and screw it all up with a k&n cold air intake!!!!! Famous words of my Teacher Gary Denoon for automotive technology at Manatee Technical Institute!!!! RIP Mr D we miss ya buddy
On the 3.6 you should def do a baxter spin on oil filter conversion. Thats pretty shitty advice. Aslso an oil catch can. Both these mods will save your engine.
You apparently don't understand that the throttle body will always be the restriction/ bottleneck in the air/fuel system. That is why you swap intake on both sides of the throttle body to account for that or simply upgrade all three. Then move to heads, push rods, roller rockers, cam or cams, compression ratios, piston size, connecting rod length, crank dimensions..... etc. Or just not buy an electronically controlled motor and vehicle and stick with analog.
I totally agree with him in leaving well enough alone. But by saying the throttle body closes more as more air goes in, doesn’t that translate to better fuel economy? In keeping mine stock, just sayin
Wrong aftermarket filters have more surface area hence more air flow they all pretty much have the same filtering capability… but also if you want cheap power a tuner works great if you want good power a RIPP supercharger is the way to go
My upgrade only will is and has been cold air, always find a better way to get colder air into the engine, but I always use the OEM parts . Like I’m my JKU 3.8L I’m going to use a snorkel, but not the tall one; I’ll use the low profile.
It’s about time The automotive engineers have figured all this out ,,,,trial and error ,,few mistakes here and there but over all great cars …. My 1972 Honda still going strong ….
I agree with not modding the engine but how about stuff like catch cans? I have one on my ‘18 F150 2.7 exoboost and everything else is stock minus a cat back exhaust…
I had a hard time following your mechanic’s logic on air intake to fuel ratio being negatively affected by a fresh air system; I would venture that a fresh air system allows more air to flow past the mass air flow sensor in the intake pathway prior to the throttle body which affects the timing and duration of the individual injectors or throttle body injectors, which ever injection system you have; thereby balancing the fuel air mixture which means more air more fuel more power-that’s what really happens when you mildly modify your intake system, all things being equal
This guy knows what he is talking about and how he knows that companies making these intakes are making money on everyone. Listen to this guy and drive that pig of a jeep from the dealership and none is the way the pcm this guy is a genius
Pull out the POS and swap in a 6.0 LS of course it does require a new transmission and transfer case then those pencil axles are going to break so a one ton axle swap is necessary after all that then you will have a pretty decent rig.
What he explains translates to, you gotta tune for mods man!
Tune for mods on a Jeep is a waste of time and money. Low range is a torque multiplier and a powerful engine won’t do much but will just break stuff faster. See new Hemi motor Jeeps. 😂
No 😂 that’s not at all what he’s saying
I would only upgrade for reliability. Like a higher quality filter (wix). And iridium spark plugs
That’s not what he’s saying and any tuning of a vehicle comes at the expense of reliability
The 4.0 was the best engine jeep ever used,bring it back!
Amen Brother!
the only profitable part of AMC
Too expensive and wouldn’t be the same with current emission standards. I agree, a straight 6 makes power, with a great torque curve.
@@freebehindbars8654 and easy to work on, if it's not rusted out a first timer could do head gaskets in like 6 hours tops
It's kinda slow tho and sucks gas , coming from someone who daily s for last 18 yrs. Wouldn't trade it though
Keep the engine stock, save your money for suspension mods.
He addressed exactly what to change, the PCM. A simple tune can unleash some extra performance without causing other issues
I agree 100% with this. I drive a 2003 TJ 4.0 but I think for any vehicle used for overlanding or any kind of long distance off-roading. You want every inch of reliability you can possible have. If you start trying to make more power you potentially shorten your engines lift span and run the risk of having issues while in the middle of nowhere.
Plastic oil cooler housing replace with Aluminum is truly a maintence upgrade to reduce failures
I had to do an upgrade on my jeep engine, replacing the cracked plastic oil filter and cooler housing with an aluminum one.
Finally someone with some sense , not trying to sell you something
Upgrades can be internal as well and not just bolt on parts. I’ll be honest though I agree with this video to an extent because the factory does build an engine to last, but only in ideal conditions. Nobody and I mean nobody puts their vehicle through ideal conditions. So upgrading known factory flaws with better parts is always my recommendation, for example the oil filter housing being plastic when it should at least be aluminum. With this being said more power can be obtained by internal parts such as cams and bigger pistons also going with heavier duty parts helps(such as forged internals).
Bro bigger pistons??? Go ahead and try bigger pistons in your engine and see what happens 😂
Haha, to last? You mean the good ol' cam followers with piss poor needle bearings just to name one flaw. I have seen the 3.6 fail in 4000 miles and typically they wanted the failure on or about warranty term limit.
The internals of this engine are forged unless they changed that too when they started building the dohc's
Engineering Explained made a video with 3 air filters; OEM , Autoparts and “high performance “.
The OEM filter was the one that gave better results.
Test was made in a Subaru engine.
There are several air filter test out there on the web that consistently rated the NAPPA Gold air filter at the top a 2nd in line. Most of the high performance filters didn’t rate well at all.
When I was a kid, I was not a mechanic, but my brother was, but for some reason my cars always ran and my brother who was always changing things broke down a lot. Case in point? “ if it an’t broke don’t fix it”
I tend to agree on that for most things but there is always room for improvement 😉👍
You're jot including context on why he's changing parts. So your quote doesn't apply here. Sorry you didn't have a case or point.
So what your saying is drive around wide open throttle to get the most out of my cold air intake. And to tune the ECM. Got it!! Thanks for the advice 🤠
Just remember that if you have drive by wire, you are requesting wot, the computer isn’t always going to give it, even if it’s tuned.
@@TraceyAllen that's the best you have. If you go to a tuner you can have them remove the progressive pedal profile and make it a linear pedal. Watch a video where it's been done, pedal is almost as fast as a standard cable throttle. Or let's just say you have a 2003 mustang, those are not throttle by wire, so your foot is the ECM programming for the pedal. If you do have a fly by wire, plenty of companies make throttle boosters. Banks makes the pedal monster. If you really want to get crazy and have the cash, you get an aftermarket ECU and have the thing mapped however you well please. Plenty of companies make trimmed down ECM/harness combos for engine swap GM/LS motors
Yes you have to tune in if you change the air filter because it’s made to run off the box that came with it
What about the pedal commander? That changes throttle response.
Change out the oil filter house for the full metal one if you have the 3.6l
Why? I know there are some engine parts on the 3.6 that seem prone to failure. I already had to replace my cylinder heads and gaskets under warranty. Since it was warranty there wasn’t much I could do about the choice in parts, but I read that they are aluminum and that’s why they tend to break so often and early on the Pentastar. Do you know if this is true? If so are these replacements just going to fail also and should I have chosen to install aftermarket cylinder heads that are made stronger?
That’s why when you put after market components you have to program the pcm/ecm
Stop please
Blower AND a PCM reprogram 😎
Then, you can start replacing everything that it breaks attached to it😏😉
All my dreams just died.
K&N Air Filter and AEV Snorkel would be my response, but nothing else. I got 4 mpg increase from this and it feels more responsive when I get on it. I have the 2021 JLUR V6 Etorque.
K&N does nothing
@@kg0311the snorkel is more of a fai then a snorkel ounce you're computers get wet it's over so there's no real point to take it past that
K&N did increase my mpg. ❤
@@RocklanderUSA while reducing engine longevity.........
Finally somebody that's speaking the truth I've known this for so many years I keep telling people you can do whatever aftermarket unless you change your intake and throttle and exhaust which in my opinion includes heads because if you've changed your throttle body you're throttle body is tuned to the heads to the intake and exhaust manifold and intake an exhaust valves to be tuned if you change one or the other you might as well change them all to really do something different but then again your longevity of the engine disappears
Put a turbo on and run 5 psi boost on it even without a tune you'll gain about 80% more power no matter what the ecm says until you melt a piston I tried it twice that's how I know
Run it on 5psi till it blows, then rebuild with a forged internals kit and push 10psi.
i dont think the pentastar can handle it
@@vicentee2687The pentastar can handle up to 12lbs I believe, but you'd be fine at 5-10psi with a tune
The pedal commander . It gives more response to throttle. Highly recommend
Top quality oil and regular fluid changes
That don't save no Pentastar. 😂 Fantastic engines, horribly built accessory components. I sell car parts for a living, and the amount of Chrysler products I see needing oil filter housings for those 3.6's is astounding.
@@twiellieevery engine has some sort of quirk that you’ll eventually have to fix.
@@connor4961exactly, people don't seem to get that for some reason😂
Here's the thing. Since the earliest vehicle with a PCM, no one is allowed to change the emmissions at idle or cruise speed. Under acceleration is entirely different. Add all the items you want, but you won't change anything about how it rolls along until you push the accelerator down. Lots of new vehicles won't accept a free flowing air filter. That's how sensitive the systems are to changes. You want to get rid of the lag in your accelerator, get a BANKS Pedal Moster.
Done wonders for my wife's 07 Wrangler
The only engine that I would compare to the Inline 4.0 is the Inline 5.9 12v w/p-pump.
It's kinda nice having both (1997) with manual transmissions.
I've seen tornadoes, exhausts, CAI's,
Can you do a episode on the care and maintenance of the auto trans on the Jk Wrangler, seems no one has addressed this in a video.
Hey not a Jeep tech but worked on Benz for 16 years. All our cars are recommended a trans service at different interval like 39k 50k and 60k. Definatly follow Jeep's recommendations. Just worked on a 2011 Jk with 120k miles for a friend. It got its last service at 50k miles and the fluid was black and smelled burnt. And this jeep never sees off road extreme conditions.
drain and replace, don’t flush. If it leaks, tow it.
Watch Waldys off-road he knows how to upgrade.😉👍
I'm surprised by the oil filter housing comments. Do you guys not do your own oil change or not own a torque wrench? I can understand it cracking from a dumb kid at an oil change place tightening it until it won't turn anymore, but if you're doing it yourself WITH a torque wrench, you shouldn't ever crack the plastic. The torque value is low, so I can also see an owner tightening it until they feel it's "tight enough" to not leak, not realizing they smoked it down. Now, the thermostat housing being plastic...
Nothing can make jeep more prone to failure on the trail, Chrysler just about perfected that part
😂😂
Fiat
No your right just leave the Pentastar alone you wouldn't want to mess around with that engineering masterpiece!
Preemptively replacing the oil filter housing to an aftermarket one 😂
I downsized my v6, gave it 16:1 compression, added a turbocharger, and used diesel fuel. Best upgrade ever.
Bring back the 4.0.
As some one that worked on jeeps for years, I highly agree with this.
100% right. Never mess with tuning and air intake performance mods
Pcm ??
This is a great full video that you did 😁
my old 94 YJ 4.0 is still going strong. I think the engine mod question subtext though, is about the gladiator bros who wish the engine was less anemic for a truck. People WANT a big bad v8 gladiator ...but stelantis won't make one. ever. Because that would eat RAM's lunch. They can get away with it on the wrangler 392, because the Charger and Challenger don't compete in the same segment the way gladiator and RAM kinda do.
The one Jeep engine upgrade people should do is adding a catch can.
Should be done to every engine. As well as EGR delete.
@@mikeford963 If you do an EGR delete, don't get caught and put it back to pass smog.
@@markboen don't have to worry about that where I live. Besides, if your cats are functioning properly, you should have no issue anyway. The amount of exhaust gases the pass through into the intake are not going to affect the smog reading that much. Especially seeing as it's only from one bank on a V-style.engine
@@mikeford963 I live in SoCal
@@markboen I feel for you.
calling BS. I've upgraded the air intake, throttle body, Exhaust, and even did a sport tune. My JK has crazy good performance. I noticed a difference with every upgrade.
If your modding a car and not tuning it of course youre not going to get the performance you expect... thats just common sense. I have modded every vehicle i have owned, and its always made them better, and more fun.
lol upgrade the Oil filter housing to a aluminum one is my only upgrade I’d do if could go back in the past… harden plastic doesn’t last here in MN
Better quality spark plugs specially if you have some mileage on it. Quality spark plug wires. Larger OIL filter
He's talking about newer Jeeps ... CJ's and YJ's simply upgrade or re-program the ECM or PCM software ... Newer Jeeps are more dependent on computer tuning while the older Jeeps can be worked on or repaired under your nearest shade tree ...
All of that is true if you don’t tune your vehicle. If you modify it then get it retuned it’ll perform better, also more airflow doesn’t necessarily mean more dust and dirt particles.
Thank you for talking about OEM filtration performance and ECU set points!!!
The throttle body senses that it has less restriction so it closes a little bit????? What are you talking about 🤣🤣🤣
Meh, idk about this
Yeah depends on the ECU. Quite alot are maf based, ie load based, so more air in is measured and will make a difference.
Less restrictions mean your engine can breathe better making power more efficiently, the ecm isn’t going to close the butterfly because your getting better flow.
Really what it comes down to is large horsepower numbers translate well on the street, but when you're off road, you just don't need that kind of power. You can always gear down; you got tons of room, especially on newer jeeps for that. You'll see tons of rock crawlers that still run the basic 4.0 with 1 ton axles, and they can get away with it by gearing for the job they are doing. Unless you care about street cred its just unnecessary to try and wring out horsepower on a power plant that quite frankly isn't as reliable as it used to be.
So, upgrade the PCM.
☹️
It's a wrangler... not a hot rod.. only teenage women own wranglers
There is no “upgrading” the PCM you would have to reprogram the values inside the PCM for it to allow more air flow etc. You do this with a proper pass through device via the OBD2 port.
@@shawnhenderson1130only old rich men going through a mid life crisis drive hot rods
Ok wait a second…. I think this guy is correct. But there is a difference between older vehicles vs newer vehicles. I don’t know what the cut off is. But a guy in the comments said it best. You have to tune with upgrades
The best upgrade in my opinion be a bronco. Just kidding boys and girls.😂
LOL!
At least a Bronco would make it past 70,000 MLS.
There is no point in cold air intake other than sound. It's a V6 4x4 with off road suspension and tires it's not meant to go fast they make sports cars for that.
K&N performance air filter has been dyno tested and proven to gain few HP i used them on all my vechile and very happy and satisfy with its performance
We want more than 270hp lmao
That narrows down what motor he is talking about. Either the 4.0 I6 or V6?
I agree on the air filter, snorkel it if anything.
And never have I seen issues with upgrades on any Motor.
If your talking bolt ons.
Headers, full exhaust and a re tune.
Or boost.
Cat back exhaust upgrade for the sound on the 3.6 and 2.0
I like a good tune
Interesting advice! Probably pretty much true! You look at places like Africa and Australia where trucks are driven daily in very rough terrain, they might have other modes done, but they generally leave the engines alone too.
Chevy LT 5.3L or 6.0L transplant
If water infiltration isnt an issue then a series of holes in air box below the filter you get a slight boost in power and bettér throttle response. Flipping airfilter lid on 96 TBI gav me 1000rpm and more power
The last tbi Chevy was 95
Yes and no, better flow feeding the throttle body will improve power but only in the higher rpm range when the throttle body is more open. It allows you to realize more of the potential performance of the intake manifold and cylinder heads. But only at WOT, high rpm, or boost. The restriction of the throttle body, intake runners and valves/cam will still be there you’re just providing for maximum flow. Only boost puts more air and fuel in the cylinder for combustion. With a cold air intake, under decent acceleration you might get positive fuel trims but it’s still within the PCM parameters.
I dunno what strategy is more common, throttle body metering of air or injector pulse width metering of fuel. I’d think injector pulse width is simpler even with an electronic throttle body.
I often get asked if Jeeps are reliable, because they see so many failures and breakdowns. I tell them that they ARE definitely pretty reliable IF they don't screw around with mods and add-ons. If you lift the crap out of your jeep and put huge wheels and tires on it, you're putting extra strain on the engine, transmission, axles and suspension components. You're almost 100% guaranteed to have breakages and to get stranded if you're alone.
What's his thoughts on oil catch can ?
So a tune is the way to go.
Less restricted, the higher the efficiency. The same applies to the exaust system.
exactly. being able to breath is essential to all engines - especially when needing it to develop power.
Everything is set and controled by computer and fuel injectors. Factories are very good at setting the engines to be most reliable, most efficient. Any change is a downgrade of sorts. Hardly anything you can do except maybe a chip...
Actually this only applies to engines with fly by wire throttle bodies so if you have a cable throttle body it's possible to increase power efficiency with modifications 🎉😂
In jeeps before 2000 the only worth while upgrade is a stroker kit. After 2000 banks makes a turbo kit.
I’d suggest putting a 6.4 in there
One you should do is Rocker roller bearing type upgrade .
Jeep spent millions getting everything perfect and u gonna go to advanced auto and screw it all up with a k&n cold air intake!!!!! Famous words of my Teacher Gary Denoon for automotive technology at Manatee Technical Institute!!!!
RIP Mr D we miss ya buddy
the jeep straight 6 is legendary for durability and longevity.
The 4.0L is an overheating POS
Warped heads at 70,000 MLS
Pentashit 3.6
On the 3.6 you should def do a baxter spin on oil filter conversion. Thats pretty shitty advice. Aslso an oil catch can. Both these mods will save your engine.
You apparently don't understand that the throttle body will always be the restriction/ bottleneck in the air/fuel system. That is why you swap intake on both sides of the throttle body to account for that or simply upgrade all three. Then move to heads, push rods, roller rockers, cam or cams, compression ratios, piston size, connecting rod length, crank dimensions..... etc. Or just not buy an electronically controlled motor and vehicle and stick with analog.
This is why you calibrate the PCM
I totally agree with him in leaving well enough alone. But by saying the throttle body closes more as more air goes in, doesn’t that translate to better fuel economy? In keeping mine stock, just sayin
High flow water pump, electric cooling fans, brown dog motor mounts and amsoil. Lol
I have a 2020 jeep unlimited with a magnum 5.9 with a carburetor on it it runs well
There's only 1 upgrade for every post TJ jeep, out with the v6 and in with the 4.0
Wrong aftermarket filters have more surface area hence more air flow they all pretty much have the same filtering capability… but also if you want cheap power a tuner works great if you want good power a RIPP supercharger is the way to go
Laughs in 88mm Precision Turbskie, fuel pump and a few prayers.
upgrade your transfer case linkage.
My upgrade only will is and has been cold air, always find a better way to get colder air into the engine, but I always use the OEM parts .
Like I’m my JKU 3.8L I’m going to use a snorkel, but not the tall one; I’ll use the low profile.
So basically, get a tune after you mod lol
If you have the old square manifold swap for the 2000s round makes all the difference
That’s only for the 4.0
That 3.6l v6 is absolutely gutless.
Well, if you got a pentastar... you can start by removing it and placing in the dumpster where it belongs.
You speak the truth my friend.
It’s about time
The automotive engineers have figured all this out ,,,,trial and error ,,few mistakes here and there but over all great cars …. My 1972 Honda still going strong ….
I agree with not modding the engine but how about stuff like catch cans?
I have one on my ‘18 F150 2.7 exoboost and everything else is stock minus a cat back exhaust…
A TUNE... huh, never thought of that?
Or after making any of these minor upgrades, can you bring it to the shop and have them program a PCM. Kind of like doing a tune on a race car
I had a hard time following your mechanic’s logic on air intake to fuel ratio being negatively affected by a fresh air system; I would venture that a fresh air system allows more air to flow past the mass air flow sensor in the intake pathway prior to the throttle body which affects the timing and duration of the individual injectors or throttle body injectors, which ever injection system you have; thereby balancing the fuel air mixture which means more air more fuel more power-that’s what really happens when you mildly modify your intake system, all things being equal
It should be swapped with a Cummins motor. Something with actual power. I love keeps but they bite as far as power goes.
Tuner mod solved this issue i had immediately.
The best Jeep upgrade is to buy a truck.
If you want a customized vehicle…start with something old and build it up
that’s engines with computers for ya
This guy knows what he is talking about and how he knows that companies making these intakes are making money on everyone. Listen to this guy and drive that pig of a jeep from the dealership and none is the way the pcm this guy is a genius
Pull out the POS and swap in a 6.0 LS of course it does require a new transmission and transfer case then those pencil axles are going to break so a one ton axle swap is necessary after all that then you will have a pretty decent rig.
Only rich people get those things.