HOW TO INSTALL GUTTER APRON AND D-EDGE
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- Опубліковано 14 вер 2022
- In this video I show how to properly instal roof edge for your roofing project we show how to install gutter apron and d-edge when doing a shingle replacement or new roof installation
New home owner here. Leaning that we're missing a gutter apron for large sections of the roof. I'm being quoted for both D-edge and an apron from different companies and now I know exactly what the difference is and what I need. This video was perfect. Thank you!!
We would put the apron or drip edge under the ice and water here in New England. Then the rake edge over the underlayment. It helps us with ice dams and wind driven ice/rain. It actually says this in the instructions of most shingles. It looks like you're in a warmer climate though. Nice video!
They need to do the same in Nashville as well. While we dont super freeze every winter there are many times we get some good snows and weather stays around 0 and or below freezing for weeks or more at time, just not ever year.
Amazing tutorial! Real professional work quality.
Thanks
The mic placement is 💰 🤑 💸
lol It makes me sound way out of shape cause you can hear me groaning and breathing heavy lol
Great advise thanks.
R905.2.8.5Drip edge.
A drip edge shall be provided at eaves and rake edges of shingle roofs. Adjacent segments of drip edge shall be overlapped not less than 2 inches (51 mm). Drip edges shall extend not less than 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) below the roof sheathing and extend up back onto the roof deck not less than 2 inches (51 mm). Drip edges shall be mechanically fastened to the roof deck at not more than 12 inches (305 mm) o.c. with fasteners as specified in Section R905.2.5. Underlayment shall be installed over the drip edge along eaves and under the drip edge along rake edges.
Can you do a close up of the corner cut. One of the best looking corners Thx
Great job
Thanks!
Should the apron be installed a quarter inch from the facia so the gutters will slip in?
Nice your roofing like a caveman 💪💪
thanks!
How would I join the gutter apron to rake if I’m not using gutters? You mentioned tabs what is that?
so why dont you make the eve shingles flush with the gutter apron if they have the beads too then?
Great video Justin. I noticed some piles of trash piled up On the ground. Do they not know about greenhead dumpsters ? You should really talk to the contractor and give him a card and let him know that a dumpster is better than piling that up on the ground and you can also take care of their dumpster needs.
I have tried that... they just burn it all before grading
I’m putting a new roof on my house this summer. Is there any reason not to re use the d edge and gutter aprons if they are in good shape? Great channel, thanks!
You can re use them if you would like
I just watched a video that said DO NOT place it tight against the face board and allow a little space between it and the apron for the gutters and here you say place it tight against the face board that will have to be bent for the gutters...appears everyone is different and everyone has their own way of doing things...LOL
You want it tight or your fascia metal will not hold as well
@@Kyle-84 The metal should be tight but I also install fascia and gutters and we know what is right and wrong. On this house we did siding,soffit,and fascia and everything was perfect. We use the 2' 5/8' d-edge that is aluminum and it works great for fascia. It is hard to mess up gutter apron...I have seen it but we know better
It shouldn't be tight if a gutter is going to be installed, it's a gutter apron made to drin water into a gutter and the gutter need to behind it, the gutter installers will have to bend the gutter apron up for the gutter to fit.
@@handydandyhomesyou also don't want it too loose especially in cold weather regions or water/ice can get behind it and freeze causing extensive damage to the fascia board and soffit regardless if it's covered with aluminum fascia/soffit or not.
Well how do the screws on your gutter clips work if they are clipped on the back part of the gutter? Seems like you can't slip the gutter up behind the guard with the clips attached.
Don't clip hangers on the back of the gutter. Let them hang in the gutter and slide the gutter under the drip edge, high point as far up as you can, then set your gutter slope from there. Screw hangers to the face of the drip edge and through the back of the gutter.
Do you leave a small gap under gutter apron or do you put it against the eve board?
I saw a different channel say to leave a little gap for the gutter guys, so that they can slide the gutters underneath easily, and don’t bend it out of the way.
Seems like it’s a combo of preference and experience with other trades, rather than something that actually matters, performance-wise.
Do you like rubber air hose’s . How you like that pitch hopper .
I have been using the rubber hoses forever and like them. my mexican crews use all the 1/4in hard hoses and they seem lighter but I guess I am just stubborn and havnt switched. I was totally againts paying 150 bucks for the pitch hopper over the couch cusions but now that I bought a ouple I use them all the time lol
@@Lifes_Apprentice Yeah 1/4”
Lines are so light weight . Glad the pitch hoopers are a hit and safe
@@hhprogressiveconstruction1140 No complaints from me so far
I install CertainTeed and the underlayment says (in bold) DO NOT use staples... 1" cap nails are to be used per manufacturer warranty. Dont see any cap nails on underlayment. 7:07 7:09
All synthetic underlayment says to use cap nails. I did not install any of the underlayment on this project and personally do not think it matters
@@Lifes_Apprentice All good read the directions on the outside of the underlayment roll. Might save you from buying the homeowners a new roof... mitigation measures will save money and headaches.
@@JB-mh6xz by your logic, all nails in shingles would have to be 1" cap. He's not attaching underlayment, he's doing the drip edge and rake metal flashing. Underlayment manufacturers instructions don't apply.
You don’t want it under the ice and water on the eave edge?
That is a question I get all the time and personally I don't think it matters
Certainteed ice and water is the worst. Super slippery. Harvey Ice and water is the best. Also the ice and water should be 1 inch passed the eve of roof if your going to add drip edge on top. Water can and will get behind and rot the eve of your roof. I add ice and water over top the drip or extend my ice and water
Seems like gutter apron should go under the ice shield
I would think the same thing. However upon research, it seems standard practice for a gutter apron to go under the shingles, before the underlayment. But if using drip edge, then it's standard practice for the drip edge on an eave end to go on the sheathing, then underlayment. I am not exactly sure why this is, as from a water flow perspective, it seems like both options should be directly on underlayment. But maybe gutter apron is often installed after a roof with gutters, and therefore why standard practice to go above under layment. Dropping this comment, because I'm researching this as well.
In California that is Standard Operating Procedure... I install CertainTeed and the underlayment says (in bold) DO NOT use staples... 1" cap nails are to be used per manufacturer warranty.
if you put the gutter apron under the water & ice shield, "you will" get ice damming, if you are in areas that are acceptable to it. i see this issue often!
Literally the most debating topic in roofing. You also have to follow local codes, like them or not. Do a YT search on this and you'll literally find videos of people arguing about it. Literally.
No it goes first and then ice and water
At the ridge we see a piece of exposed sheathing, seems you could've placed a piece under the drip edge before nailing it.
You may be right about that. I am not sure what you are exactly seeing but there should not be any exposed plywood other than top 6 inches or less
Code is >2" overlap
This is the most confusing part of putting on the D edge....you say to put tight to the fascia boar, others say to extend it off the fascia, a finger width, 1/4 of an inch or so, so the water does use service tension and come back to fascia, it drops straight down and it also allows the gutter contractor to easily slide his gutter up under it
I saw too and was thinking the same thing until he said they would slide aluminum fascia up under the drip edge to cover the wooden fascia.
It seems that the d-edge has the angled portion at the bottom that will protrude out from the fascia, which should be enough to break the surface tension. Might be interesting to do a little experiment to see what is actually needed.
@@slydog7131 while it does have the angle portion that is suppose to extend out it seem it alwatys gets pressed up against it. The mexicans just go too fast to get done properly and get to the next roof. They really have never been trained. When I had them do it on my home they had never hesrd of it before. Not that Tommy is the be all answer to construction on This Old House but this is houw he instructs all his students and it makes sense. my drip edge was smashed by the guys, I made them take it off and do it again
@@slydog7131there is a video and without the gap the surface tension pulls the water back to the fascia
Just call it drip edge brah
It is drip edge if you do not install gutters.
@Lifes_Apprentice I was just messing with you because you keep calling it D edge, D is one syllable and drip is one syllable. Why not just say drip edge? Lol
why did you put in on after the ice and water shield lol. and its Drip edge not d edge
It is definitely D-edge and I didnt have a choice but to put it over the ice and water because I didnt do underlayment. I dont think it matters once the gutter apron seals down to ice and water
Wrong again.
first comment is always a troll lol
It seems like there is always that guy.
@@Lonestarexteriors Always