I am a single mom and can't afford to pay someone to fix things in the house, but with your video I am able to do it on my own. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills to us. More power to you and wish you the best and please continue to share your expertise with us.
Great video with clear instructions and videotaping! For small repair jobs, my husband likes to think he is handy. With your help, now I fix things myself before he gets his hands on them (and before he messes it up more). If only other youtubers would watch your videos to see how to create an excellent presentation. (No, I'm not Paul Ricalde's mom.)
thank you so much, Paul for all the awesome videos and taking time to create such videos to assist folks with doing their own home repairs. I've always done the plumbing and electrical work on my house but roofing repair is a new adventure. will definitely use your tips to assist me. I subbed your wonderful channel. Peace.
Sir,Thank You Very Much! I opened UA-cam and here goes your video. A customer just asked me about these a few hours ago. You have a great video. It is very simple... direct to the point. Thanks Again.
Good morning! I just wanted to thank you for taking the time to watch and comment! If you ever have any questions, please let me know. Have a good day! Paul
Thanks for the video. I'm getting ready to replace the drip edge on my flat patio roof. Just that part. My patio is curved so knowing how to make those cuts you showed will allow me to get that drip edge nice and snug against the facia. I wasn't clear about the tape you mentioned though. I guess I'll have to ask about that. It's some kind of silver tape because they previously put that on the existing drip edge.
Good video, I needed some help on installing drip edge. I have just started roofing this year, and just met the two pieces in the corner without cuts, or folding over. I will do this from now on though. Thanks
i followed what you did when i did my roof. i went a step further i put some rustoleum leak seal around each nail just incase. i know it was prob overdoing it but since i live in florida and it rains a lot in the summer it was just a extra precaution
+SteelCity1981 Hi SteelCity 1981, I see nothing wrong with doing what you did. I would rather do too much than too little! Have a good day,\. Thanks! Paul
My roof gutter is crooked and away from the shingles so water goes on the side wall...what is the simplest way to fix this? Can I use edge drip, make it little longer so that the water from the roof will go directly in the roof gutter instead of dripping on the side wall?
The drip edge with the extended flange is known in the business as "F" style drip edge, and typically they come in common sizes such as 4 1/2" and 5 1/2" . You''l need this style if you want your leading edge to protrude far enough to drip into say, an eave gutter without leaving a shingle overhang so long that it droops down. Typically, this kind is only used on eaves. Using them on rakes is also acceptable, but more difficult to make look good as the eave drip meets the rake drip at the corner. The other, simpler L-shaped drip edge is known as "C" style, and they can come in common sizes ranging from 3 1/2" to 5 1/2", as well as some other sizes. These are perfectly acceptable to use on rake edges, and even on eave edges where you require a larger exposure to flash off a gutter. Be mindful that it is *VERY* important to make sure your drip edge covers the top lip(the one that touches the fascia board) of the gutter as much as is possible. This will direct all flowing water right into the gutter and give it little opportunity to get into the fascia board or soffit. There is also another drip edge known as gravel stop that is commonly used on flat roofs to keep water contained, disallowing it to flow over the rake edge. I don't like this guy's "inside cut". Doing that will leave open a square that remains unflashed in the corner at a place like the base of the valley, a place where you really want that flashing to be. On that cut, I also disapprove of leaving the edges square. They are sharp and might eventually poke in to the shingles or underlayment beneath as the years progress and fasteners may or may not loosen themselves. If I'm doing a piece of metal, no matter what it is, I'm going to be rounding off the corners. A rounded corner is safer to work with, causes less puncture problems, and if it is exposed, looks more aesthetically pleasing. A better way to do that cut(on a "C" style drip edge) would be to be first measure the roof-side flange of the drip edge(let's say it's 1 1/2"). Rather than using one piece and leaving a spot unflashed, this method marries two pieces without leaving out that unflashed square. Take the piece that you'll be using on the left side and cut(with snips, or use a straight razor knife to score it a few times untill it can bend and break, known as work hardening) into the bend to a depth of 1 1/2 inches, but do not remove any material. Bend the exposure part out towards you at a ninety degree angle, so it sits up flat against the adjacent fascia board to the right. Round the corners of the roof side flange. Take the piece you'll be using on the right side and do the same 1 1/2" cut into the bend, but this time remove the exposure part and then round the corners of the roof side flange. If done properly, the right side piece's left edge will sit right up against the bent flange you made on the left side piece's right edge and there will be no missing material where it is needed the most.
+Astromyxin Another thing, regarding the way a bend may not bend itself as straight as you want it to, all you have to do to get it to bend straight is, once you have the mark squared off, cut the top as the gentleman in the video did, except on the bottom(exposure side) take your snips and simply nick into the very bottom 1/8" of it or so(typically where there will be a rolled and hemmed edge if you're using a quality product) and this will relieve the tension and allow the piece to bend more freely, and it will also force the piece to bend right there at the nick, no need for a piece of wood.
+Astromyxin Another thing, when installing new eave drip, be sure, if at all possible, to at least attempt to get it *underneath* your first course of roofing underlayment at the very bottom of the roof. This way, any water that gets into the roof between the shingle and underlayment will roll right off the underlayment and into the gutter, not behind the drip edge and into the fascia assembly. If there is ice and water shield present, it is unlikely that you'll be able to successfully unstick it in order to get you drip edge underneath it. If there is only felt paper, it will prove much easier to finagle in up in there. Additionally, on the rake edges, it is important to make sure that the drip edge is *on top* of the underlayment all the way up the rake edge. This way, if any water does blow into the roof between the drip edge and shingles, it will blow right onto metal and then underlayment, leaving no possibility for it to get in between the two. Furthermore, if you have no drip edge currently on your rake edge and you decide to install an "F" style drip edge on the eave, the new extended lip will shrink your shingle overhang by however long that lip extends past the rake fascia board. Ideally what you want is about a 1" to 1 1/4" overhang on the rake edge. If you currently have a 1" overhang on the rake edge, and you install an "F" style drip edge, your new shingle overhang will likely be about a quarter of an inch, and that's no good. Most times, it is correct to install "C" style drip edging on rake edges for this very reason.
Do you anticipate doing' any gutter work. I would like to see you do a video for that. I've watched the softit and fascia repairs and it has helped a lot. Thx.
Hey John, I wish I could help, but I do not do gutters. I can give you advice, for I have installed them before. I do have some friends that are in the business and they have seamless gutter machines. My advice to you would be to have a professional add seamless gutters if you are doing a large section. If you are doing a small section and you don't mind seams, you can do it yourself. I will do my best to guide you in the right direction, if you choose to tackle it. Thanks! Paul
Hey John, I also show how to replace fascia on another video.( HOW TO REPAIR FASCIA) You can see from this video that the house does not have drip edge. The roof is about 6 years old and it is curling over the fascia. Good luck and feel free to ask any questions. I will be happy to help! Thanks! Paul
Does that go above or below the tar paper? Someone had told me there's another layer beneath the shingles and it's supposed to be in a certain order. Wasn't sure though about that. Otherwise this is a very informative video.
Samuel Sullivan Hi Samuel, I'm sorry about not giving that information. I sometimes miss certain details and I wish I would have added this one. I put my felt paper down 1st, I add my drip edge over my felt, I then add a starter strip. This is when you put your shingle backwards.(The part that has no dividers on it will go on the edge of the roof, all the way around). The next layer of shingles will go in the correct position. This keeps the edge neat and it also keeps the felt from lifting in high winds. Hope this helps! Paul
Paul Ricalde It's okay, we had pavers installed in our backyard and a guy took the corner of the drip edge out with his truck. There was no structural damage to the roof edge itself but the mangled drip edge was a bit of an eyesore. I also noticed after watching this video that there are only 2 corners that we're done properly on the house and I also noticed where someone had to use sealant on one of the corners. They did however overlap them correctly so it's basically corner fixes here and there.
Hi Samuel, I put my drip edge on top of my felt.This will give a neat look and it will also keep the felt from lifting in high winds. I then add my starter strip.( shingles placed backwards, with the finished side facing up the slope of the roof). The starter strip will go around the entire perimeter of the roofing. This will give your roof a clean edge and stiffen the overhang, thus keeping your shingles from folding over and sagging. I then add my finish shingles. In some areas near the coast and in the northern region, roofers will add a 3 to 4" strip of felt, glued down with roofing tar. This will help keep the water from blowing under the the roofing edge during heavy wind and ice storms. Hope this helps! Paul
I thought the whole point of a drip edge was to channel the rain down INTO a gutter, not behind the gutter down the flat side of the fascia boards. The way you are installing the drip edge is exactly how it was installed on my house, lying flat against the fascia boards BEHIND the gutter, which caused major rotting of all of the fascia boards. I just removed the old gutter and all of the damaged fascia boards on the back of my house entirely by myself and just finished installing the new fascia boards. You can bet my new drip edge will not be installed like the old one was.
Good morning Bags and Bling, You are correct, the gutter is supposed to go behind the drip edge. It sounds to me like your drip edge was installed correctly, but your gutters were not. The gutters should be tucked behind the drip edge on the high side of your gutter. It may not be covered on the low side because the gutters need to have a slope on them. This way the water will run towards the downspout. If your gutters were installed perfectly level, the water would stay in your gutters. The house in this video does not have gutters. If I were to add gutters, I would tuck the gutters behind the drip edge. Drip edge is sold in different widths, I personally like a wider drip edge when installing gutters. This way, your gutter may be tucked behind the drip edge on both the high and low side. Drip edge serves a few purposes, It deflects water away from your fascia, keeps the shingles from curling down against your fascia, protects the top edge of your fascia and keeps water from getting between the shingles and your roof sheathing. When gutters are installed, the drip edge will keep the water from seeping behind the gutter. Some people argue that the water will then get behind your gutter and cause rot. Some water may seep behind but it would be much worse if the drip edge were behind the gutter. The small amount of water that may get behind a properly installed gutter, will roll down the fascia to the ground. NEVER CAULK the gap between your fascia and the bottom of your gutter or you will hold water against the fascia. P.S. It is always good practice to periodically check the exterior of your home for any spots that may result in rot, Proper caulking and paint will also keep your home trouble free. I hope this helps. Thank you for your comment and have a good day! Paul
Good morning Becki, I appreciate you taking your time out to reply to me! If you ever have any questions on construction, please let me know. I will do my best to help. Thank you! Paul
Hi Ed, The manufacturers recommend that you install the drip edge directly on the eves with the felt on top of the drip edge.( EVES..Lower horizontal part of the roof). On the rake, it is recommended to install the drip edge over the felt. This will keep the felt secured to the sheathing under heavy winds and rain. ( Rakes.... vertical part of roof or Gable) Codes in different areas of the country are conflicting when it comes to the placement order. Some codes call for the drip edge to be installed over the felt, or under-lament and cemented at the eves. The purpose of the under-lament is to keep the water off of the sheathing if the shingles fail. I personally believe that your most important part of your roof is the shingles, If they fail, you will have a problem regardless. Water may travel on top of the felt but it will find its way to your felt nails and it will leak. My roof was installed after Hurricane Katrina and the roofer installed the drip edge on top of the felt on the entire perimeter of my roof. I noticed it but was not concerned because I see roofers do this all the time for different reasons and I have not seen a roof fail because of this placement. It is usually because the roofer leave shiners( Exposed nails due to improper placement of the roofing nails, or if the nails hit the sheathing seam and eventually back out. My roof is 11 years old and it is still water tight. I also want to point out that I live in the south, so snow and ice are not a concern. As i mentioned earlier, different areas abide by different codes. You may need an Ice shield in your area. I hope this helps! Thanks! Paul
eventualentrophy It is actually a good idea! Your drip edge should go over your gutters. This will keep bouncing water droplets from getting between your gutters and fascia. I have actually had to make a rain shield for some customers that were having rot issues. Their roofer used small drip edge that did not reach the gutters and water was bouncing behind the gutters. Thanks! Paul
Thank you for your video, I just had my roof done by Olympic Roofing in kisssimme fl, and after all the inspection was done, i know something is not right, the drip edge is not flush to the fascia, we had some wind the other day and you could hear some noise coming from the drip edge. i could take some pictues if you like and you could give me your opinion. Anyway thank you great video
Hi Jose, It sounds like the roofer failed to nail the drip edged down. Did they install it after the roof was on or at the beginning of the install? It could just be a mistake and the installer may have missed that piece. If you can get on a ladder and push the drip edge against the fascia , you will know if it is nailed or not. I would call them back out to fix it either way. Keep me informed and I will be happy to help. Thanks! Paul
+CokemanChatt I only had to replace one piece of drip edge. I did this video because I had to replace a length of fascia that was damaged and I have not covered anything on drip edge. I have received numerous request for a video on replacing drip edge and this was a good time to make it. Didn't have any frustrations at all with this project. I try to explain everything that I can think of when doing a video, but I do not have enough time to include every single step. It would actually be much easier to just left the camera running without editing, but my viewers would suffer and get bored.
+Paul Ricalde (Paulstoolbox) i meant if it were my video i would have had a lot of edited frustrations. I have the exact same problem as this customer. i live on a bluff and house built in 2007 has no drip edge for gable or house for that matter. i have water and rot at corner of 1 gable , facia, and soffit. I am watching to see how to fix. How much would this cost to pay someone to fix. your videos are well done and helpful. You are very skilled.
Hey CokemanChatt, I am really sorry, I misunderstood your comment! I have been out of the renovation business for quite a while and I was always reluctant to bid on jobs. I have always been the hands on person in the business. I do have a few videos that cover fascia repair. One is on my fathers house and the other is mine. I would be happy to answer any questions for you. Let me know what I can help you with and I will do my best. Thanks! Paul
Can you please help? We just had a CertainTeed roof installed and the roofer did not properly install the drip guard. Instead of going under a decorative piece on the gable, they just cut it off! Some areas do not lay flat against the siding. We called them repeated and they promised to come out and repair or replace it - but yesterday they finally called and said the two owners have parted ways and they have no one t repair it. The good news is that we have never paid them - the bad news is we do not know who to call to get this work done! We live in St. Charles, Mo. Thank you for any information you can provide!
Hi Barb, Can you send me a pic to my web site @ Paulstoolbox.com? Your drip edge should not go under any trim on the sides of your gable, It's purpose is to run water away from your fascia and keep your shingles from curling downward. If can see your situation. I will try to help. Very sorry to hear the news. Thanks! Paul
My drip edge was done incorrectly. Whomever installed it last didnt bend the corners like you did... as a matter of fact they didn't bend corners at all... just two sheets of drip edge that meet in the corner... Whats happened over time is that the corners have begun to separate a bit... and I constantly have wasps that make their nests in the gaps between the shingles and wood... So needless to say... i have the next few weekends booked repairing corners on a two story home... =(
+.period It depends on your area. If you live in an area with lots of snow and sleet, you should use Ice shield. This is a tape with a tar backing. You will put your drip edge directly on your sheathing, add your ice shield and cover the seem on the seam of the drip edge where it covers the sheathing. This will keep the possibility of water from seeping under the drip edge, next you will add felt paper and shingles. I live in the south, so ice shield is not necessary for my situation. Thanks! Paul
one problem with your drip edge installation, drip edge when properly installed has the drip edge on the rakes on top of the tar or felt paper and at the eves under the paper
+Paul Ricalde (Paulstoolbox) Been in California for 35 years now. In the process of buying a home, and thus was checking out your video. Thanks for putting your stuff togehter on here.
Jason wong Hey Jason If you think the sound annoys you now, you should hear my voice in stereo! It even annoys me.( LOL) On a serious note, I ditched my crappy Azden mic and bought a pro one. My videos are still average, but I'm working on it. Thanks! Paul
![Lp. Последняя Реальность #107 РОДНОЙ ДОМ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IK3QKzKUlHM/mqdefault.jpg)
I am a single mom and can't afford to pay someone to fix things in the house, but with your video I am able to do it on my own. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills to us. More power to you and wish you the best and please continue to share your expertise with us.
Great video with clear instructions and videotaping! For small repair jobs, my husband likes to think he is handy. With your help, now I fix things myself before he gets his hands on them (and before he messes it up more). If only other youtubers would watch your videos to see how to create an excellent presentation. (No, I'm not Paul Ricalde's mom.)
I've got to say, Paul is THE MAN! I've never see such a thorough teacher for home repair. Excellent!
thank you so much, Paul for all the awesome videos and taking time to create such videos to assist folks with doing their own home repairs. I've always done the plumbing and electrical work on my house but roofing repair is a new adventure. will definitely use your tips to assist me. I subbed your wonderful channel. Peace.
Thank you, thank you, thank you, and thank you again for enlightening me about those cutting tools.
Sir,Thank You Very Much! I opened UA-cam and here goes your video. A customer just asked me about these a few hours ago. You have a great video. It is very simple... direct to the point. Thanks Again.
Good morning!
I just wanted to thank you for taking the time to watch and comment! If you ever have any questions, please let me know.
Have a good day!
Paul
As an aspiring roofer who is familiar with this metal drip edge already, I appreciate your knowledge and the tricks you share in this video.
Ryan Beckel
Hi Ryan, I really appreciate that! Have a good day!
Paul
Thanks for making these videos. It was very helpful.
Paul Thanks for the video and by reading everybodys comments and Qs, its even better Lots of good info here. You're bookmarked !
Hi Richard,
I really appreciate you watching and commenting.
Have a good day!
Paul
Thanks for the video. I'm getting ready to replace the drip edge on my flat patio roof. Just that part. My patio is curved so knowing how to make those cuts you showed will allow me to get that drip edge nice and snug against the facia. I wasn't clear about the tape you mentioned though. I guess I'll have to ask about that. It's some kind of silver tape because they previously put that on the existing drip edge.
Just wanted you to know that your technique for cutting and bending the corners worked out great for me! Drip edge installed!
Paul, thanks for another great video !
Great point about cutting the molded corner and angels.
The information on nailing is excellent as well.
Great tutorial!
Nicely done! Thanks for your good work!
Good video, I needed some help on installing drip edge. I have just started roofing this year, and just met the two pieces in the corner without cuts, or folding over. I will do this from now on though. Thanks
awesome video. very well done presentation. Thanks
F!@#Guilt
Hey F!@#Guilt
Thank you for your comment and have a good day!!
Paul
Very helpful, thank you Paul
Awesome video, very good detail, very good examples prior to the actual install. Thank you for this video.
You are welcome, Yusmary.
Thank you for your support and have a good day!
wow... thanks for your video... you explain things well..
Useful and pretty straight forward.
I Appreciate that.
Hey Darius,
Thank you for taking the time to comment!
Paul
very good demonstration. Appreciate it.
That was very useful. Thank you!
why do you have the drip edge touching the fascia board?
This was very interesting. As a designer I now have a more clearer understanding when drawing my shingle details.
Thanks for the tips !
Excellent Pro Skill Video, no wasted time
i followed what you did when i did my roof. i went a step further i put some rustoleum leak seal around each nail just incase. i know it was prob overdoing it but since i live in florida and it rains a lot in the summer it was just a extra precaution
+SteelCity1981 Hi SteelCity 1981,
I see nothing wrong with doing what you did. I would rather do too much than too little!
Have a good day,\.
Thanks!
Paul
thanks mate you really helped me on this one
wish you had done mine. Thanks for the video. now I can fix mine and do it right.
Installing Drip Edge/Fascia on your roof. (DIY)
Good video. Thanks man!
My roof gutter is crooked and away from the shingles so water goes on the side wall...what is the simplest way to fix this?
Can I use edge drip, make it little longer so that the water from the roof will go directly in the roof gutter instead of dripping on the side wall?
The drip edge with the extended flange is known in the business as "F" style drip edge, and typically they come in common sizes such as 4 1/2" and 5 1/2" . You''l need this style if you want your leading edge to protrude far enough to drip into say, an eave gutter without leaving a shingle overhang so long that it droops down. Typically, this kind is only used on eaves. Using them on rakes is also acceptable, but more difficult to make look good as the eave drip meets the rake drip at the corner. The other, simpler L-shaped drip edge is known as "C" style, and they can come in common sizes ranging from 3 1/2" to 5 1/2", as well as some other sizes. These are perfectly acceptable to use on rake edges, and even on eave edges where you require a larger exposure to flash off a gutter. Be mindful that it is *VERY* important to make sure your drip edge covers the top lip(the one that touches the fascia board) of the gutter as much as is possible. This will direct all flowing water right into the gutter and give it little opportunity to get into the fascia board or soffit. There is also another drip edge known as gravel stop that is commonly used on flat roofs to keep water contained, disallowing it to flow over the rake edge.
I don't like this guy's "inside cut". Doing that will leave open a square that remains unflashed in the corner at a place like the base of the valley, a place where you really want that flashing to be. On that cut, I also disapprove of leaving the edges square. They are sharp and might eventually poke in to the shingles or underlayment beneath as the years progress and fasteners may or may not loosen themselves. If I'm doing a piece of metal, no matter what it is, I'm going to be rounding off the corners. A rounded corner is safer to work with, causes less puncture problems, and if it is exposed, looks more aesthetically pleasing. A better way to do that cut(on a "C" style drip edge) would be to be first measure the roof-side flange of the drip edge(let's say it's 1 1/2"). Rather than using one piece and leaving a spot unflashed, this method marries two pieces without leaving out that unflashed square. Take the piece that you'll be using on the left side and cut(with snips, or use a straight razor knife to score it a few times untill it can bend and break, known as work hardening) into the bend to a depth of 1 1/2 inches, but do not remove any material. Bend the exposure part out towards you at a ninety degree angle, so it sits up flat against the adjacent fascia board to the right. Round the corners of the roof side flange. Take the piece you'll be using on the right side and do the same 1 1/2" cut into the bend, but this time remove the exposure part and then round the corners of the roof side flange. If done properly, the right side piece's left edge will sit right up against the bent flange you made on the left side piece's right edge and there will be no missing material where it is needed the most.
+Astromyxin Another thing, regarding the way a bend may not bend itself as straight as you want it to, all you have to do to get it to bend straight is, once you have the mark squared off, cut the top as the gentleman in the video did, except on the bottom(exposure side) take your snips and simply nick into the very bottom 1/8" of it or so(typically where there will be a rolled and hemmed edge if you're using a quality product) and this will relieve the tension and allow the piece to bend more freely, and it will also force the piece to bend right there at the nick, no need for a piece of wood.
+Astromyxin Another thing, when installing new eave drip, be sure, if at all possible, to at least attempt to get it *underneath* your first course of roofing underlayment at the very bottom of the roof. This way, any water that gets into the roof between the shingle and underlayment will roll right off the underlayment and into the gutter, not behind the drip edge and into the fascia assembly. If there is ice and water shield present, it is unlikely that you'll be able to successfully unstick it in order to get you drip edge underneath it. If there is only felt paper, it will prove much easier to finagle in up in there. Additionally, on the rake edges, it is important to make sure that the drip edge is *on top* of the underlayment all the way up the rake edge. This way, if any water does blow into the roof between the drip edge and shingles, it will blow right onto metal and then underlayment, leaving no possibility for it to get in between the two. Furthermore, if you have no drip edge currently on your rake edge and you decide to install an "F" style drip edge on the eave, the new extended lip will shrink your shingle overhang by however long that lip extends past the rake fascia board. Ideally what you want is about a 1" to 1 1/4" overhang on the rake edge. If you currently have a 1" overhang on the rake edge, and you install an "F" style drip edge, your new shingle overhang will likely be about a quarter of an inch, and that's no good. Most times, it is correct to install "C" style drip edging on rake edges for this very reason.
could u pls make a video on making that soffit box?
Nice video. What is the color of your shingles? It looks great with the green siding!
Hi Rony,
The color is Driftwood.
Thanks and have a good day!
Paul
THANK YOU !!
Sheet metal scares the hell out of me. Saw someone get cut bad on it once. But I'm all for saving money.
This was a great video
what type of nails do you use for securing the drip edge ?
Do you anticipate doing' any gutter work. I would like to see you do a video for that. I've watched the softit and fascia repairs and it has helped a lot. Thx.
Hey John,
I wish I could help, but I do not do gutters. I can give you advice, for I have installed them before. I do have some friends that are in the business and they have seamless gutter machines. My advice to you would be to have a professional add seamless gutters if you are doing a large section. If you are doing a small section and you don't mind seams, you can do it yourself. I will do my best to guide you in the right direction, if you choose to tackle it.
Thanks!
Paul
Hey John,
I also show how to replace fascia on another video.( HOW TO REPAIR FASCIA) You can see from this video that the house does not have drip edge. The roof is about 6 years old and it is curling over the fascia. Good luck and feel free to ask any questions. I will be happy to help!
Thanks!
Paul
Stupid question.
Do you only put them on the side that has a gutter? Or do you put them on all sides regardless?
Does that go above or below the tar paper? Someone had told me there's another layer beneath the shingles and it's supposed to be in a certain order. Wasn't sure though about that. Otherwise this is a very informative video.
Samuel Sullivan
Hi Samuel,
I'm sorry about not giving that information. I sometimes miss certain details and I wish I would have added this one. I put my felt paper down 1st, I add my drip edge over my felt, I then add a starter strip. This is when you put your shingle backwards.(The part that has no dividers on it will go on the edge of the roof, all the way around). The next layer of shingles will go in the correct position. This keeps the edge neat and it also keeps the felt from lifting in high winds. Hope this helps!
Paul
Paul Ricalde It's okay, we had pavers installed in our backyard and a guy took the corner of the drip edge out with his truck. There was no structural damage to the roof edge itself but the mangled drip edge was a bit of an eyesore. I also noticed after watching this video that there are only 2 corners that we're done properly on the house and I also noticed where someone had to use sealant on one of the corners. They did however overlap them correctly so it's basically corner fixes here and there.
Samuel Sullivan Also thank you!
Hi Samuel,
I put my drip edge on top of my felt.This will give a neat look and it will also keep the felt from lifting in high winds. I then add my starter strip.( shingles placed backwards, with the finished side facing up the slope of the roof). The starter strip will go around the entire perimeter of the roofing. This will give your roof a clean edge and stiffen the overhang, thus keeping your shingles from folding over and sagging. I then add my finish shingles. In some areas near the coast and in the northern region, roofers will add a 3 to 4" strip of felt, glued down with roofing tar. This will help keep the water from blowing under the the roofing edge during heavy wind and ice storms.
Hope this helps!
Paul
Thank you 😊
I thought the whole point of a drip edge was to channel the rain down INTO a gutter, not behind the gutter down the flat side of the fascia boards. The way you are installing the drip edge is exactly how it was installed on my house, lying flat against the fascia boards BEHIND the gutter, which caused major rotting of all of the fascia boards. I just removed the old gutter and all of the damaged fascia boards on the back of my house entirely by myself and just finished installing the new fascia boards. You can bet my new drip edge will not be installed like the old one was.
Good morning Bags and Bling,
You are correct, the gutter is supposed to go behind the drip edge. It sounds to me like your drip edge was installed correctly, but your gutters were not. The gutters should be tucked behind the drip edge on the high side of your gutter. It may not be covered on the low side because the gutters need to have a slope on them. This way the water will run towards the downspout. If your gutters were installed perfectly level, the water would stay in your gutters. The house in this video does not have gutters. If I were to add gutters, I would tuck the gutters behind the drip edge. Drip edge is sold in different widths, I personally like a wider drip edge when installing gutters. This way, your gutter may be tucked behind the drip edge on both the high and low side. Drip edge serves a few purposes, It deflects water away from your fascia, keeps the shingles from curling down against your fascia, protects the top edge of your fascia and keeps water from getting between the shingles and your roof sheathing. When gutters are installed, the drip edge will keep the water from seeping behind the gutter. Some people argue that the water will then get behind your gutter and cause rot. Some water may seep behind but it would be much worse if the drip edge were behind the gutter. The small amount of water that may get behind a properly installed gutter, will roll down the fascia to the ground. NEVER CAULK the gap between your fascia and the bottom of your gutter or you will hold water against the fascia. P.S. It is always good practice to periodically check the exterior of your home for any spots that may result in rot, Proper caulking and paint will also keep your home trouble free. I hope this helps.
Thank you for your comment and have a good day!
Paul
Good morning Becki,
I appreciate you taking your time out to reply to me! If you ever have any questions on construction, please let me know. I will do my best to help.
Thank you!
Paul
Very good
great video thanks
Drip Edge under or over felt?
Hi Ed,
The manufacturers recommend that you install the drip edge directly on the eves with the felt on top of the drip edge.( EVES..Lower horizontal part of the roof). On the rake, it is recommended to install the drip edge over the felt. This will keep the felt secured to the sheathing under heavy winds and rain. ( Rakes.... vertical part of roof or Gable) Codes in different areas of the country are conflicting when it comes to the placement order. Some codes call for the drip edge to be installed over the felt, or under-lament and cemented at the eves. The purpose of the under-lament is to keep the water off of the sheathing if the shingles fail. I personally believe that your most important part of your roof is the shingles, If they fail, you will have a problem regardless. Water may travel on top of the felt but it will find its way to your felt nails and it will leak. My roof was installed after Hurricane Katrina and the roofer installed the drip edge on top of the felt on the entire perimeter of my roof. I noticed it but was not concerned because I see roofers do this all the time for different reasons and I have not seen a roof fail because of this placement. It is usually because the roofer leave shiners( Exposed nails due to improper placement of the roofing nails, or if the nails hit the sheathing seam and eventually back out. My roof is 11 years old and it is still water tight. I also want to point out that I live in the south, so snow and ice are not a concern. As i mentioned earlier, different areas abide by different codes. You may need an Ice shield in your area. I hope this helps!
Thanks!
Paul
Hey Paul. do you ever push the drip edge out a little to help the water hit the gutter and not go behind it? or is that a bad idea?
eventualentrophy
It is actually a good idea! Your drip edge should go over your gutters. This will keep bouncing water droplets from getting between your gutters and fascia. I have actually had to make a rain shield for some customers that were having rot issues. Their roofer used small drip edge that did not reach the gutters and water was bouncing behind the gutters.
Thanks!
Paul
eventualentrophy That's a very good practice that is sometimes neglected.
thanks for the video
Link to other video?
Hi Steve,
Is the link not working?
Thanks!
Paul
Thanks. Well done.
Thank you for the nice comment! Paul
Thank you for your video, I just had my roof done by Olympic Roofing in kisssimme fl, and after all the inspection was done, i know something is not right, the drip edge is not flush to the fascia, we had some wind the other day and you could hear some noise coming from the drip edge. i could take some pictues if you like and you could give me your opinion. Anyway thank you great video
Hi Jose,
It sounds like the roofer failed to nail the drip edged down. Did they install it after the roof was on or at the beginning of the install? It could just be a mistake and the installer may have missed that piece. If you can get on a ladder and push the drip edge against the fascia , you will know if it is nailed or not. I would call them back out to fix it either way. Keep me informed and I will be happy to help.
Thanks!
Paul
TY
Nice video. You have a tool belt though, why don't you use it?
Hi Steve,
I wish I could tell you, but I can't think of a good excuse. I guess I wasn't thinking.
FUNNY!
Paul
Great video!
Ah Jodie
Hi Jodie, Thank you for your comment and have a Happy Memorial Day!
Paul
you made that look easy and you edited out all the frustrations.
+CokemanChatt
I only had to replace one piece of drip edge. I did this video because I had to replace a length of fascia that was damaged and I have not covered anything on drip edge. I have received numerous request for a video on replacing drip edge and this was a good time to make it. Didn't have any frustrations at all with this project. I try to explain everything that I can think of when doing a video, but I do not have enough time to include every single step. It would actually be much easier to just left the camera running without editing, but my viewers would suffer and get bored.
+Paul Ricalde (Paulstoolbox) i meant if it were my video i would have had a lot of edited frustrations.
I have the exact same problem as this customer. i live on a bluff and house built in 2007 has no drip edge for gable or house for that matter. i have water and rot at corner of 1 gable , facia, and soffit. I am watching to see how to fix. How much would this cost to pay someone to fix. your videos are well done and helpful. You are very skilled.
Hey CokemanChatt,
I am really sorry, I misunderstood your comment! I have been out of the renovation business for quite a while and I was always reluctant to bid on jobs. I have always been the hands on person in the business. I do have a few videos that cover fascia repair. One is on my fathers house and the other is mine. I would be happy to answer any questions for you. Let me know what I can help you with and I will do my best.
Thanks!
Paul
Can you please help? We just had a CertainTeed roof installed and the roofer did not properly install the drip guard. Instead of going under a decorative piece on the gable, they just cut it off! Some areas do not lay flat against the siding. We called them repeated and they promised to come out and repair or replace it - but yesterday they finally called and said the two owners have parted ways and they have no one t repair it. The good news is that we have never paid them - the bad news is we do not know who to call to get this work done! We live in St. Charles, Mo. Thank you for any information you can provide!
Hi Barb,
Can you send me a pic to my web site @ Paulstoolbox.com? Your drip edge should not go under any trim on the sides of your gable, It's purpose is to run water away from your fascia and keep your shingles from curling downward. If can see your situation. I will try to help. Very sorry to hear the news.
Thanks!
Paul
My drip edge was done incorrectly. Whomever installed it last didnt bend the corners like you did... as a matter of fact they didn't bend corners at all... just two sheets of drip edge that meet in the corner... Whats happened over time is that the corners have begun to separate a bit... and I constantly have wasps that make their nests in the gaps between the shingles and wood... So needless to say... i have the next few weekends booked repairing corners on a two story home... =(
Chris Lozano Sorry to hear that Chris! If you run into a problem, let me know. I will do my best to help!
Paul!
should you add any tar to help out for good measure?
+.period
It depends on your area. If you live in an area with lots of snow and sleet, you should use Ice shield. This is a tape with a tar backing. You will put your drip edge directly on your sheathing, add your ice shield and cover the seem on the seam of the drip edge where it covers the sheathing. This will keep the possibility of water from seeping under the drip edge, next you will add felt paper and shingles. I live in the south, so ice shield is not necessary for my situation.
Thanks!
Paul
your the best Paul thanks
Anytime Period and thank you for your comment!
Paul
what type of nails did you use?
I used 1 1/4" galvanized roofing nails.
Thanks!
Paul
one problem with your drip edge installation, drip edge when properly installed has the drip edge on the rakes on top of the tar or felt paper and at the eves under the paper
just my opinion... I was taught to two piece inside & outside corners per S.M.A.C.N..A. details 30 yr. commercial roofer
I AM LIKE WAYS YOU HELPING ME .
Thank you Binh!
Have a great weekend!
Paul
Information on drip edge from a Roofing Company.
www.wbottawaroofing.com/drip-edge-important/
This guy has to be from South Louisiana
Am I mistaken in hearing a bit of South Louisiana in your voice. Not a lot, but it's there.
+dwightshackelford Mais, I was right.
+dwightshackelford
Yeah dwightshackelford, you got me! LOL. I'm from the New Orleans area.
Paul
+Paul Ricalde (Paulstoolbox) I'm originally from Houma. Hell, you a yankee to me! ;-)
Houma is a good place! Been there many times. Watching the Saints right now! Where do you live now? Have a good one buddy!
+Paul Ricalde (Paulstoolbox) Been in California for 35 years now. In the process of buying a home, and thus was checking out your video. Thanks for putting your stuff togehter on here.
Mono sound is annoying to listen to on headphones.
Jason wong
Hey Jason
If you think the sound annoys you now, you should hear my voice in stereo! It even annoys me.( LOL) On a serious note, I ditched my crappy Azden mic and bought a pro one. My videos are still average, but I'm working on it.
Thanks!
Paul