Good to see that Brian acknowledges that his right hand in the video is perhaps subject to danger if there's a kickback - that's from a guy who's used these tools for decades. Shows that we can all learn from other's opinions/ideas even after a long history of use. Well done Brian.
Great video.Always beed to be careful when doing those cuts.Recently just touched the blade underneath while doing this cut,trying to secure offcut. Luckily only just grazed my finger. Can never be to careful.Principal learnt here, to strictly keep and stay behind the machine at all times.
Also, keep in mind that the while it is rare, a tracksaw can kick back. So, don't do as shown at 11:03 and do keep your fingers away from behind the saw while cutting -- that's exactly where the blade will cut into your rail during a kickback.
Get rid of that ‘Schmutz’ 😂 I need to incorporate that word in to sentences every day now. I learned a new word today. Thank you Sedge. Good video. 😉 Some carpenters today still don’t make a cutting list and mark everything. Even carpenters who have been doing 20-30 years. I mark everything, especially when cutting up sheets of MDF and ply. 👍🏻
There are a lot of great tips on using my track saw more effectively. I was amused when you talked about the splinter guard. I have 2 tracks, one splinter guard is clear and the other is black. I still have a black splinter guard in my spare parts. I guess my tools and parts are old.
A top for those like me who could not remove the old glue like he did: use acetone. A slighly damp cloth gets its job done super quickly. I actually clean the track with acetone anyway before setting up a new splinter guard. Wear a mask as acetone can be nasty.
Thanks for the video, bud! Man that STM is primo!!! I would say, additionally, getting 90 degree cuts is for breaking down plywood is great for those that don't have the means to 'safely' transport full sheet goods. Otherwise, as you said here, getting parallel cuts is essential and not to worry about getting 90 degree full sheet goods. Rip first, then cross cut at 90 to project dimension on a miter saw or cross cut station. Again, thanks for the vid! Have a wicked good Christmas!!
Ben .... The STM is worth every penny and then some ....I love the fact that it can fold up in seconds and store under an MFT/3 ...... Extremely well built......Merry Christmas brother !!!!
This is a ripping plywood video ...the 1st step in breaking down a sheet of ply wood...crosscutting is the second step featured here ua-cam.com/video/8bhPIzvkmIE/v-deo.html Thanks for watching !!!
Just seen a row of American woodwork shows - all talking metric! Hardly ever heard that before. Btw: ¾" is almost exactly 19mm, not 20mm. It's even closer than 25mm for 1" (actually 25.4mm). As a Brit, I've had the conversions in my heard since I was 15
Don't know if anyone else has this problem, but the splinter guard adhesive doesn't last in any kind of heat. I wash it off with isopropyl, and use fastcap 2 sided tape. Lasts much longer!
I have a question. I got the TSC 55 and the factory rail the 1400. I got another 1400 and joined it but my line isn't exactly straight despite by best efforts to align well. It is evidenced by when I put two cut segments against each other there's a little bit of rocking, maybe 1mm. Nothing insane but still prevents glue-ups for example. I have to put them through a jointer and I don't have one in my shop so I need to load the wood in the car and go to another shop ... Any other practical solution other than just buying a 2700 or 3000 track? It's both expensive and cumbersome, and I did expect joining tracks to solve my problems on this front... I do use a high quality straight edge which is maybe 36in for the alignment but it still doesn't fully help... Trying to figure things out ...
when joining rails try bridging the saw over the gap and tighten the cams so it brings both rails into alignment then tighten the connectors.. hope this helps.....
Hey sedge, with the first straight line rip do you have to have timber on both sides off the blade? What happens when you don’t? Since seeing this video I breakdown plywood this way but curious to know why you take 5mm off versus a blade width 😊
Yes, absolutely this link should take you to the right blade www.amazon.com/Festool-495381-Tooth-Cross-Cut-Plunge/dp/B002VMPV7C/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ts75+fine+cut+blade&qid=1638392356&sr=8-1
Off topic, but what folding metric rule are you using in your videos? And is it metal or plastic? I've' only found plastic and composite online. All my folding rules are imperial and I'm switching over to to metric. My Festool parallel guides are metric. Thanks for all your great videos!
Thanks Sedge for all your videos, a couple of questions (BTW I am on the Makita DSP600). 1) I started with my two 1500 mm rails being separated into 90° and 45° to not mess with the splinter guard. After a while I needed to connect both rails and do a bevel cut. Should I replace my 90° splinter guard right away or is it just a minor effect on the cut quality? I might buy a 3000 mm rail and pondering if I am ever allowed to do a bevel cut without changing the splinter guard afterwards :/ 2) I sometimes consider removing and reinstalling the same splinter guard, out of pure convenience of not ordering online, is this unreasonable? Thanks again, Emil
Emil...sorry for the delay...I use the TS55 from Festool and the quality of cut is perfect on a 90 and on a 45 ... I have never changed a splinter guard or messed with it when beveling .
I read in the manual for cutting the splinter gaurd and it says to set the plunge depth to max I noticed that you didn't is it the correct way how you did it?
I have done / tried it both ways and the quality of cut of the splinterguard is the same ...what changes ... is the starting and stopping point for line up.......Hope this makes sense.
@@sedgetool one more question what if you change to a different blade say from the panther blade to the finer finish blade with more teeth would you need to change splintergaurd? Thanks for the feedback.
@@leroyjenkins9623 check the kerf thickness of your Panther blade..if it is older it use to be thinner that changed about 6 years ago and now all the TS55 blades are the same thickness ..2.2mm
@@sedgetool Thanks This information is good to know I pick up some very good Festool saw blades that are used on consignment sale at local woodworking machine sales and sharpening store. Some of those blades are of a different Kerf. Good thing I keep a roll of new splinter guard material as twice now my splinter guard has peeled off on the 105 in rail. One day maybe I figure out why this is happening.
Your video has good tips but please be careful, don’t put your hand right behind the saw (as you show in the thumbnail), if the saw binds/slips or anything you will be in a world of pain…
No clamps?! I wouldn’t dare. Is it because the rail is so long you have enough surface contact to keep it solid? That reference edge is going to have downstream effects on the entire project is it not? Slight bump and you’re off and might not even notice. I want to be convinced though because breaking down is really tedious.
I bet you wish you had not changed from the black splinter guard to the new clear style they are crap @ 11:13 it is already falling off after just a few minutes. Love my TS 60 but hate the new splinter guard
Nice tips, but I cringe every time I see someone grab the board/cut-off directly behind the saw (11:01). All it takes it one kickback and those fingers are gone... even if the saw has anti-kickback features (it can fail).
Unless you are joining 2 rails, the saw will never move to the damaged corner. I have repaired small dings by reshaping the aluminum with a few gentle taps with a hammer. If the damage is severe, you can use your friend's miter saw to cut off the damaged end. The rail will be a little shorter and the end may not be precisely square, but it won't be ugly.
@@buildingnfixing7348 "THEY SAY" that you can cut aluminum with woodworking blades without damaging the blade. Run the blade at full RPM and feed the blade slowly. I have accidentally cut my aluminum fence with the table saw and did not damage the blade.
it took me a while to be comfortable with not clamping it, but you don't have to.. it is very nice. i still clamp it on high stakes cuts though just because
Thanks for watching.... I bought my first Festool track saw back in 2004.....I was struggling with the price back then...... I spent $430.00 ......the first month it paid for itself...never looked back......oh and that same saw is stilling working great at my old business partners shop in Colorado !!!!!
@@sedgetool Wow, sorry, I don't know how my question ended up here. I did however, mean to ask this question to a short video where you show some tips on the MW1000. It was a short but I wonder where you have a video about the MW1000. You also mention it on Festool live that you have a video about it, but cannot find it anywhere :P
Great tricks but what the hell is your right hand doing behind the saw on the rail?! Ok it’s plywood, ok there is a riving knife but kickback could happen everytime… (in france, we have a youtuber called LJVS who get caught by his TS, the saw jump right back on his hand😵) so, yes it’s a very safe saw but a hand never have to be behind it 😌
MAJOR SAFETY WARNING !! Stay away with your free hand from the backside of the saw! In the case of a kickback, the saw might hit your free hand! Even if the saw has anti-kickback "goodies" you're never 100% that these will actually work when needed... To avoid this tendency to grab the piece that you are cutting off, use a wider working table (or saw horses) and grab the saw itself with your both hands.
Want to sound less like the idiots from This Old House and more like someone with real skills? Never use the worrd "what" unless you are asking a question. Eliminate "What you wanna do now is you wanna-" and all it's shady relatives. Just say it. "What I like to do is I like to take a piece of wood" = 'I use a piece of wood' or 'Use a piece of wood...'
Good to see that Brian acknowledges that his right hand in the video is perhaps subject to danger if there's a kickback - that's from a guy who's used these tools for decades. Shows that we can all learn from other's opinions/ideas even after a long history of use. Well done Brian.
Thanks Allan !!!!!!!
I haven't watched the vid but the video thumbnail popped up in my recommended and was enough to worry me!
Great video.Always beed to be careful when doing those cuts.Recently just touched the blade underneath while doing this cut,trying to secure offcut. Luckily only just grazed my finger. Can never be to careful.Principal learnt here, to strictly keep and stay behind the machine at all times.
Great point!
Also, keep in mind that the while it is rare, a tracksaw can kick back. So, don't do as shown at 11:03 and do keep your fingers away from behind the saw while cutting -- that's exactly where the blade will cut into your rail during a kickback.
Just found this … track saw owner for many years - these are great tips … love the Mass acent … regards from VA.😊
Wicked cool
You are the shop teacher we all wish we had in high school. Great videos!
Wow, thanks!
Yup , he has tools we never had access to as young men and women.
Get rid of that ‘Schmutz’ 😂 I need to incorporate that word in to sentences every day now. I learned a new word today. Thank you Sedge. Good video. 😉
Some carpenters today still don’t make a cutting list and mark everything. Even carpenters who have been doing 20-30 years.
I mark everything, especially when cutting up sheets of MDF and ply. 👍🏻
me too
I just noticed the background in your shop. All Festool tracks! Now you're just showing off.
;)
Thanks for the great tips!
you're welcome !!!
You ought to make a “100 uses for a domino” video. Every time I watch your videos, which I love, you come up with another application for dominos.😂
Great idea!
There are a lot of great tips on using my track saw more effectively.
I was amused when you talked about the splinter guard. I have 2 tracks, one splinter guard is clear and the other is black. I still have a black splinter guard in my spare parts. I guess my tools and parts are old.
I had a rail that had a black splinter guard up to a couple of years ago...still worked great !!!!
A top for those like me who could not remove the old glue like he did: use acetone. A slighly damp cloth gets its job done super quickly. I actually clean the track with acetone anyway before setting up a new splinter guard. Wear a mask as acetone can be nasty.
Ok ...Cool
Absolutely love this channel. Thanks Sedge!
My pleasure! Wicked cool
Came upon your channel over the Christmas break. Great work, thanks for sharing your wealth of experience.
Welcome to our channel.....Thanks for subscribing ....we have a lot planned !!!!
Good intel!! Relatively new to your channel > Enjoying & Learning!!
Welcome aboard!
Thanks for the video, bud! Man that STM is primo!!! I would say, additionally, getting 90 degree cuts is for breaking down plywood is great for those that don't have the means to 'safely' transport full sheet goods. Otherwise, as you said here, getting parallel cuts is essential and not to worry about getting 90 degree full sheet goods. Rip first, then cross cut at 90 to project dimension on a miter saw or cross cut station. Again, thanks for the vid! Have a wicked good Christmas!!
Ben .... The STM is worth every penny and then some ....I love the fact that it can fold up in seconds and store under an MFT/3 ...... Extremely well built......Merry Christmas brother !!!!
Hello, been following you on the Friday’s live streams! Just found this channel, really appreciated, great collection of tips! Thank you.
Awesome, thank you! !!!!!
Solid gold!
Thanks !!!!
Great tips, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for sharing the video.
Thanks for watching!
Smalls!!! It’s squints and smalls from international tool!! Brent and Rich. How have you been?
Wow ....... How ya doin ????? It has been sooo long ...hope all is well !!!!!
Hey sedge, what's your everyday carry in you tool belt? I'm just starting to do shop based activities and am curious how I can lighten my tool belt.
Olfa utility knife/ Fastcap Metric - Imperial tape / Pica pencil / Pica Sharpie / 9mm mechanical pencils / 5mm hex key !!!
Use your thumb and a hairdrayrer (meduim-high heat) to quickly, easily and cleanly remove the residue from the guide rail. Took me 5 minutes.
That's a good idea!
Not exactly a video on "breaking down plywood" so much as making 1 cut. Is there a part two?
This is a ripping plywood video ...the 1st step in breaking down a sheet of ply wood...crosscutting is the second step featured here
ua-cam.com/video/8bhPIzvkmIE/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching !!!
Good stuff. Do you think Festool will ever produce a right-handed version?
I do not think so
Just seen a row of American woodwork shows - all talking metric! Hardly ever heard that before. Btw: ¾" is almost exactly 19mm, not 20mm. It's even closer than 25mm for 1" (actually 25.4mm). As a Brit, I've had the conversions in my heard since I was 15
Very Cool !!! Thanks for watching
Don't know if anyone else has this problem, but the splinter guard adhesive doesn't last in any kind of heat. I wash it off with isopropyl, and use fastcap 2 sided tape. Lasts much longer!
Thanks for watching
I ended up replacing my Festool adhesive strip with a Makita branded strip. As the Festool strip would keep lifting off the track saw.
I have a question. I got the TSC 55 and the factory rail the 1400. I got another 1400 and joined it but my line isn't exactly straight despite by best efforts to align well. It is evidenced by when I put two cut segments against each other there's a little bit of rocking, maybe 1mm. Nothing insane but still prevents glue-ups for example. I have to put them through a jointer and I don't have one in my shop so I need to load the wood in the car and go to another shop ...
Any other practical solution other than just buying a 2700 or 3000 track? It's both expensive and cumbersome, and I did expect joining tracks to solve my problems on this front... I do use a high quality straight edge which is maybe 36in for the alignment but it still doesn't fully help... Trying to figure things out ...
when joining rails try bridging the saw over the gap and tighten the cams so it brings both rails into alignment then tighten the connectors.. hope this helps.....
Hey sedge, with the first straight line rip do you have to have timber on both sides off the blade? What happens when you don’t? Since seeing this video I breakdown plywood this way but curious to know why you take 5mm off versus a blade width 😊
I do it this way to maximize dust extraction
@@sedgetool Thankyou mate. Bents also said the same
Thanks Sedge! Can you recommend a blade for my TS 75, I want something that will be dedicated to birch plywood and a like.
Yes, absolutely
this link should take you to the right blade
www.amazon.com/Festool-495381-Tooth-Cross-Cut-Plunge/dp/B002VMPV7C/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ts75+fine+cut+blade&qid=1638392356&sr=8-1
Off topic, but what folding metric rule are you using in your videos? And is it metal or plastic? I've' only found plastic and composite online. All my folding rules are imperial and I'm switching over to to metric. My Festool parallel guides are metric. Thanks for all your great videos!
it is made of aluminum ... and is a Hultafors......and I bought it in Canada
I find the hose and cable is better set up so it feeds above the table its just a wee bit awkward putting the Hoover up there
cool !!!
My buddy Mahten, wish I had a sweet accent like that
LOL.... what accent ??? ; ) Thanks for watching !!!!
@@sedgetool the Big Boss Accent, of course! And you're welcome
Thanks Sedge for all your videos, a couple of questions (BTW I am on the Makita DSP600).
1) I started with my two 1500 mm rails being separated into 90° and 45° to not mess with the splinter guard. After a while I needed to connect both rails and do a bevel cut. Should I replace my 90° splinter guard right away or is it just a minor effect on the cut quality?
I might buy a 3000 mm rail and pondering if I am ever allowed to do a bevel cut without changing the splinter guard afterwards :/
2) I sometimes consider removing and reinstalling the same splinter guard, out of pure convenience of not ordering online, is this unreasonable?
Thanks again,
Emil
Emil...sorry for the delay...I use the TS55 from Festool and the quality of cut is perfect on a 90 and on a 45 ... I have never changed a splinter guard or messed with it when beveling .
How much more track length do you need than the material you are cutting
about 4" is what I have been use to
Would you Cut Ash butcherblock 8' x 1.75" thick, in one shot with the HKC 55 on the Track?
I would do 2 passes....
@@sedgetool I appreciate it! I always watch the recordings of Festool Live, if not the Live events at noon!
I read in the manual for cutting the splinter gaurd and it says to set the plunge depth to max I noticed that you didn't is it the correct way how you did it?
I have done / tried it both ways and the quality of cut of the splinterguard is the same ...what changes ... is the starting and stopping point for line up.......Hope this makes sense.
@@sedgetool one more question what if you change to a different blade say from the panther blade to the finer finish blade with more teeth would you need to change splintergaurd? Thanks for the feedback.
@@leroyjenkins9623 check the kerf thickness of your Panther blade..if it is older it use to be thinner that changed about 6 years ago and now all the TS55 blades are the same thickness ..2.2mm
@@sedgetool Thanks This information is good to know I pick up some very good Festool saw blades that are used on consignment sale at local woodworking machine sales and sharpening store. Some of those blades are of a different Kerf. Good thing I keep a roll of new splinter guard material as twice now my splinter guard has peeled off on the 105 in rail. One day maybe I figure out why this is happening.
Your video has good tips but please be careful, don’t put your hand right behind the saw (as you show in the thumbnail), if the saw binds/slips or anything you will be in a world of pain…
Thanks Oliver...will do !!
No clamps?! I wouldn’t dare. Is it because the rail is so long you have enough surface contact to keep it solid?
That reference edge is going to have downstream effects on the entire project is it not? Slight bump and you’re off and might not even notice.
I want to be convinced though because breaking down is really tedious.
clamp if you want too... I never do when ripping sheet goods
I bet you wish you had not changed from the black splinter guard to the new clear style they are crap @ 11:13 it is already falling off after just a few minutes. Love my TS 60 but hate the new splinter guard
I love the new clear splinter guard ...It is new since 2009 ...wow time flys....
Nice tips, but I cringe every time I see someone grab the board/cut-off directly behind the saw (11:01). All it takes it one kickback and those fingers are gone... even if the saw has anti-kickback features (it can fail).
Thanks for the safety tip...
How about if you drop your guide rail and the bottom corner got mashed. what is the fix? I'm asking for a friend.😆😆😆
Need a new rail !!! or a good friend !!! lol
Unless you are joining 2 rails, the saw will never move to the damaged corner. I have repaired small dings by reshaping the aluminum with a few gentle taps with a hammer. If the damage is severe, you can use your friend's miter saw to cut off the damaged end. The rail will be a little shorter and the end may not be precisely square, but it won't be ugly.
@@bobt2522 thank you. I have a kapex can I just cut the part that is damaged? And do I need to get the aluminum blade for the kapex?
@@buildingnfixing7348 "THEY SAY" that you can cut aluminum with woodworking blades without damaging the blade. Run the blade at full RPM and feed the blade slowly. I have accidentally cut my aluminum fence with the table saw and did not damage the blade.
No longer have the 'FS' gauge on the saw to give you the correct depth when on the track? Got to be a step backward that.
It is the model before the FS gauge came out......
@@sedgetool got to be step forward that!
How do I get a metric scale on my TS 55?
My saw is an older model...
So you don’t have to clamp the guide rail?
I do not when I am working with plywood
it took me a while to be comfortable with not clamping it, but you don't have to.. it is very nice. i still clamp it on high stakes cuts though just because
I don't know if the bank would allow me to take another home equity line of credit to buy that track saw.
Thanks for watching.... I bought my first Festool track saw back in 2004.....I was struggling with the price back then...... I spent $430.00 ......the first month it paid for itself...never looked back......oh and that same saw is stilling working great at my old business partners shop in Colorado !!!!!
Where is the whole video?
???????????????????
@@sedgetool Wow, sorry, I don't know how my question ended up here. I did however, mean to ask this question to a short video where you show some tips on the MW1000. It was a short but I wonder where you have a video about the MW1000. You also mention it on Festool live that you have a video about it, but cannot find it anywhere :P
Great tricks but what the hell is your right hand doing behind the saw on the rail?! Ok it’s plywood, ok there is a riving knife but kickback could happen everytime… (in france, we have a youtuber called LJVS who get caught by his TS, the saw jump right back on his hand😵) so, yes it’s a very safe saw but a hand never have to be behind it 😌
Thanks... sorry ...
MAJOR SAFETY WARNING !! Stay away with your free hand from the backside of the saw! In the case of a kickback, the saw might hit your free hand!
Even if the saw has anti-kickback "goodies" you're never 100% that these will actually work when needed...
To avoid this tendency to grab the piece that you are cutting off, use a wider working table (or saw horses) and grab the saw itself with your both hands.
OK ...Thanks
Why don’t you plunge into a board?
potential of kickback if not using the limit stop
Wait a damn minute! Is that wall…made of tracks?!
yep......
Want to sound less like the idiots from This Old House and more like someone with real skills? Never use the worrd "what" unless you are asking a question. Eliminate "What you wanna do now is you wanna-" and all it's shady relatives. Just say it. "What I like to do is I like to take a piece of wood" = 'I use a piece of wood' or 'Use a piece of wood...'
ok