Absolutely fantastic video. Straight and to the point, with some guidance along the way for how to properly use the punch to remove the bushings. Thanks so much!
Thanks for the informative video, IMHO I would add that the plastic covers that go over the ends of the axles a trick you can use if they get hard is to use a blow dryer or heat gun, that will make them pliable again, at least to get them off and then heat them up again to put them back on:) And if you wanted to continue to use the grease zerk option that is on your wheel hubs before installing sealed bearings all you have to do is before putting the bearings in use a small pick to remove the inner sealed cover on the bearings, inside only, and leave the covers off and install the bearings now you can grease the hubs and the bearings will have a continual supply of grease. But in order for that to work properly you must fill the cavity with grease and keep it filled over time. I have done that to mine and to the blade spindle bearings on my riding mower deck and 12 years later they are like new:)
Steve Stoltz - Thank You for taking the time to make a video, you keep it simple and to the point and even show us when you make a mistake, thanks for sharing
Thanks for the video. I'm doing this upgrade on my LA150 right now. The bushings came out of one wheel easily but they are being much more trouble on the other wheel. Might have to go up to the shop and heat them up with a torch to get them to budge.
A trick my father taught me is to use a 2 X 4, the softer wood won't damage the bearing you're driving in, and it's easier to keep level than a ballpeen hammer.
I decided to do my front wheel wheels. So I ordered the bearings. Once the wheels were off I could see the spindle wheel shafts were worn pretty good. So I replaced the spindles. It's a messy job getting the grease out of the wheel housing and popping the bushing out of the wheel hub. Get yourself plenty of rubber gloves, rags, and paper shop towles
I got a kick out of your "persuader". Last video I watched, the guy used a claw hammer and a screwdriver to knock the bushings out with. It was nice to see you installer the bearings correctly with that socket as well, versus the other guy smacking them into place with a hammer. I enjoyed your video overall. : )
Is there any need to add grease after the bearings were replaced with Sealed Roller bearings? I would imagine that any further grease maintenance would not be required. since the new bearings are sealed. is this correct?
I'd continue to grease the front zerks because the spindle could rust up between the bearings, making it very difficult to remove the spindles later, like the spindles on the mower decks.
Steve, I have pounded on the old bushings until my arm aches and they won't budge. I have been alternating sides after every couple of strikes. Any advice?
I know this clip is 2014. I just ordered the ebay bearings (some times listed above on a pop up) for my L120. For my L120 these bearings are not the correct size on OD and ID even though the ad says they do. Please check your bushings with a calipers or micrometers when removing them to be sure the bearings you ordered are correct. The bearings were .003 thousands of an inch less in outer diameter than was the bushing I removed. The bearing fell into the hub with no press fit as does the John Deere bushing. The ID was also off by .010 thousands of an inch. This was a total waste of time. If I had installed these the sloppy fit bearings I would have ruined my axles and hubs in a couple years. They will go together but be prepared for future cost of this modification. The loose bearings only have 7/16 inch of surface against the axle and hub verses the 1.0 inch bearing surface of each of the bushings. In other words the fit has to be perfect for the bearings to properly function or you will have more wobble than the worn out bushings you are replacing. Bottom line is do your homework and get a inside mic or vernier caliper to do your measurements before putting un-spec'd ebay bearings on your lawn tractor wheels.
I'm not so sure this is an upgrade. I just ordered a spindle/bearing kit for my LA145. Thinking about the bearings though, if they don't last the life of the mower, when they fail they will fail catastrophically whereas the OEM bushing will be subject to "graceful degradation" and not leave me stranded in the middle of the yard with crunchy bearings. When I receive my kit, I'll purchase bushings to replace the bearings.
I initially used Oregon bearings but they were too loose so now I have the AM127304s installed. The problem I have is getting the wheel back on the spindle. What's the trick as the spindle seems slightly too big(?) The spindle is not scored.
Pete Moss All I can suggest is to scotch bright the shaft really good and coat the shaft with some light oil. You should be able to wiggle the wheel on at that point.
***** Thanks. Eventually I had to use a short 2X4 placed flat on the side of the tire and hammer it to get it through the first bearing assembly. After it went on about an inch or so it went the rest of the way fairly easy.
Hi Steve great clear video, my factory front bushings are worn out on the front on my John Deere 190c mower. Do you know if these bearings AM127304 will fit my lawn tractor? I like the fact they are made by John Deere. Does your mower steer much better with the bearings vs the bushings? I always thought Deere should have used bearings on the front instead of bushings. Thank you
It looks like the 190C uses the same wheels, so they will likely work but I would research it a little before buying them. The origional bushings in mine were badly worn so I did notice the steering improved a little.
@@SteveStoltz HI thank you, I wonder what size spindle I have, or you have or what the inner diameter of the bearing you installed is? Kind regards, and happy new year!
Does not look like the last bearing was seated. You may need to remove the zerk fitting. A bit of overkill since the sintered bronze bearings work well enough.
hey bud was there a washer inside that cup looking part on back of spindle? I didn't pay attention when I took my tire off and I got 2 washers. one is a little bigger then the other. I'm thinking the bigger one goes on outside of tire along side the clip and smaller one goes inside that cup looking part behind the tire. is that right? thanks
+Steve Stoltz ok thanks. i think whats throwing me off is i cant get the dust cap back on. the washer on front is to big. unless u got to stretch that sucker on there. idk. thanks for the reply
I ended up getting them out. I was using a flathead screwdriver since I didn't have access to a punch. Was just putting gashes in the bushings but got them out when I got up to the shop and used a punch. Also realized I could have bought all the bearings from my hardware store for half the price of what JD asked for them. Lol.
Yeah, the JD dealer is pretty salty. I bought mine from a third party JD parts supplier on the net, I think its called the greenpartstore if memory server me right.
I've bought from them before, as well as Greenfarmparts. They are pretty affordable but they charge me too much for shipping sometimes. I used to order a lot of parts off them but I found that I have better luck buying the same part on eBay or at my hardware store. Now if it's a JD-specific part and quality really matters then I go to the JD dealer and get the exact part.
Absolutely fantastic video. Straight and to the point, with some guidance along the way for how to properly use the punch to remove the bushings. Thanks so much!
Thanks for the informative video, IMHO I would add that the plastic covers that go over the ends of the axles a trick you can use if they get hard is to use a blow dryer or heat gun, that will make them pliable again, at least to get them off and then heat them up again to put them back on:) And if you wanted to continue to use the grease zerk option that is on your wheel hubs before installing sealed bearings all you have to do is before putting the bearings in use a small pick to remove the inner sealed cover on the bearings, inside only, and leave the covers off and install the bearings now you can grease the hubs and the bearings will have a continual supply of grease.
But in order for that to work properly you must fill the cavity with grease and keep it filled over time. I have done that to mine and to the blade spindle bearings on my riding mower deck and 12 years later they are like new:)
Thanks for the tips.
Steve Stoltz - Thank You for taking the time to make a video, you keep it simple and to the point and even show us when you make a mistake, thanks for sharing
Thanks, Your welcome.
Thanks for the video. I'm doing this upgrade on my LA150 right now. The bushings came out of one wheel easily but they are being much more trouble on the other wheel. Might have to go up to the shop and heat them up with a torch to get them to budge.
TAP LIGHTLY ON ALTERNATE SIDES. IF YOU HIT ONLY ONE SIDE IT COCKS AND LOCKS IN PLACE. YOU MUST DRIVE IT OUT EASILY ALTERNATING SIDES GENTLY LOL
Nice upgrade. Thank you, Joe Z
JOE Z Thanks!
A trick my father taught me is to use a 2 X 4, the softer wood won't damage the bearing you're driving in, and it's easier to keep level than a ballpeen hammer.
Lmao did you tire shine them thangs 😂 this is why my neighbors hate me ,, I do the same
I decided to do my front wheel wheels. So I ordered the bearings. Once the wheels were off I could see the spindle wheel shafts were worn pretty good. So I replaced the spindles. It's a messy job getting the grease out of the wheel housing and popping the bushing out of the wheel hub. Get yourself plenty of rubber gloves, rags, and paper shop towles
Don't forget to replace the inner and outer washers when mounting the wheels back to the axles.
Thnx for the help.very clear directions
Your Welcome.
How do you know there packed with grease ? A lot are not. I open my seals of my sealed bearings on one side and packed them with grease.
I've had old bearings be dry on the inside but never new ones. The new ones I put in were good and tight.
Thanks, I have to change mine soon...
I got a kick out of your "persuader". Last video I watched, the guy used a claw hammer and a screwdriver to knock the bushings out with. It was nice to see you installer the bearings correctly with that socket as well, versus the other guy smacking them into place with a hammer. I enjoyed your video overall. : )
lol, the persuader is great as long as you don't get too carried away. Thanks for watching.
The link provided by you for these bearings , are they snug when you install them ? And how long do they last? I ask because they are only $12.50
Ty
Is there any need to add grease after the bearings were replaced with Sealed Roller bearings? I would imagine that any further grease maintenance would not be required. since the new bearings are sealed. is this correct?
I'd continue to grease the front zerks because the spindle could rust up between the bearings, making it very difficult to remove the spindles later, like the spindles on the mower decks.
1:46 is great!
Steve, I have pounded on the old bushings until my arm aches and they won't budge. I have been alternating sides after every couple of strikes. Any advice?
Sounds like you need some heat. A map gas torch would probably do it.
I bought an s240 about 2 years ago idk if it has bearings
I know this clip is 2014. I just ordered the ebay bearings (some times listed above on a pop up) for my L120. For my L120 these bearings are not the correct size on OD and ID even though the ad says they do. Please check your bushings with a calipers or micrometers when removing them to be sure the bearings you ordered are correct. The bearings were .003 thousands of an inch less in outer diameter than was the bushing I removed. The bearing fell into the hub with no press fit as does the John Deere bushing. The ID was also off by .010 thousands of an inch. This was a total waste of time. If I had installed these the sloppy fit bearings I would have ruined my axles and hubs in a couple years. They will go together but be prepared for future cost of this modification. The loose bearings only have 7/16 inch of surface against the axle and hub verses the 1.0 inch bearing surface of each of the bushings. In other words the fit has to be perfect for the bearings to properly function or you will have more wobble than the worn out bushings you are replacing.
Bottom line is do your homework and get a inside mic or vernier caliper to do your measurements before putting un-spec'd ebay bearings on your lawn tractor wheels.
Thanks for video. Very helpful.
I'm not so sure this is an upgrade. I just ordered a spindle/bearing kit for my LA145. Thinking about the bearings though, if they don't last the life of the mower, when they fail they will fail catastrophically whereas the OEM bushing will be subject to "graceful degradation" and not leave me stranded in the middle of the yard with crunchy bearings. When I receive my kit, I'll purchase bushings to replace the bearings.
No horse shoe clips to hold the bearings in?
They are press fit.
I initially used Oregon bearings but they were too loose so now I have the AM127304s installed. The problem I have is getting the wheel back on the spindle. What's the trick as the spindle seems slightly too big(?) The spindle is not scored.
Pete Moss All I can suggest is to scotch bright the shaft really good and coat the shaft with some light oil. You should be able to wiggle the wheel on at that point.
***** Thanks. Eventually I had to use a short 2X4 placed flat on the side of the tire and hammer it to get it through the first bearing assembly. After it went on about an inch or so it went the rest of the way fairly easy.
Hi Steve great clear video, my factory front bushings are worn out on the front on my John Deere 190c mower. Do you know if these bearings AM127304 will fit my lawn tractor? I like the fact they are made by John Deere. Does your mower steer much better with the bearings vs the bushings? I always thought Deere should have used bearings on the front instead of bushings. Thank you
It looks like the 190C uses the same wheels, so they will likely work but I would research it a little before buying them. The origional bushings in mine were badly worn so I did notice the steering improved a little.
@@SteveStoltz HI thank you, I wonder what size spindle I have, or you have or what the inner diameter of the bearing you installed is? Kind regards, and happy new year!
nicely done. thank you sir
Thanks
Does not look like the last bearing was seated. You may need to remove the zerk fitting.
A bit of overkill since the sintered bronze bearings work well enough.
It could be, but its been rolling for almost 4 years and Ive done nothing to maintenance them. Mission accomplished in my book.
Nice fix. I may see about sizes for mine.
Thanks! Is this the same bearing size for other Models lie the G100?
Sparta yea it all should be the same, my neighbor has this tractor.
What size socket did you use
1 and 1/16" works.
Hi, we have a John Deere wheel bearing kit for sale on Amazon, can we put it in your video profile please?
hey bud was there a washer inside that cup looking part on back of spindle? I didn't pay attention when I took my tire off and I got 2 washers. one is a little bigger then the other. I'm thinking the bigger one goes on outside of tire along side the clip and smaller one goes inside that cup looking part behind the tire. is that right? thanks
It's been a while but I do believe there is a washer there.
+Steve Stoltz ok thanks. i think whats throwing me off is i cant get the dust cap back on. the washer on front is to big. unless u got to stretch that sucker on there. idk. thanks for the reply
Yeah, I had to stretch mine over it.
Your welcome, I had the same issue getting the bearings out of mine, I would have been better off using a little heat instead of brute force. lol
I ended up getting them out. I was using a flathead screwdriver since I didn't have access to a punch. Was just putting gashes in the bushings but got them out when I got up to the shop and used a punch. Also realized I could have bought all the bearings from my hardware store for half the price of what JD asked for them. Lol.
Yeah, the JD dealer is pretty salty. I bought mine from a third party JD parts supplier on the net, I think its called the greenpartstore if memory server me right.
I've bought from them before, as well as Greenfarmparts. They are pretty affordable but they charge me too much for shipping sometimes. I used to order a lot of parts off them but I found that I have better luck buying the same part on eBay or at my hardware store. Now if it's a JD-specific part and quality really matters then I go to the JD dealer and get the exact part.
Sounded a little like Coach Bellicheck
Most likely, but I would confirm before buying some.
Why?????
E-clips.
Should have had bearings in the first place! Is a ware item and they want to sell aftermarket parts!
They are junk, on my L130 they lasted a month, stick with the solid ones.
You must have gotten some poor quality bearings, Mine are going on 6 years old and they are still as tight as when I put them in.
The Bearings can be Purchased here:
amzn.to/41JEseo or amzn.to/3GXlUiA