Straight forward easy description. Thanks for showing using a punch. Other videos showed a big awkward metal cone which I do not own. Liked that you used a socket to protect bearing during impaction. Appreciate the lack of dogs, yard scenery and other irrelevant verbiage.
Great video. So many of them don't explain using a socket or something with a hole so you don't push on the inner bearing. I agree with not greasing also, it's one of the reasons to use sealed bearing ! And thanks for not showing us how to buy them too. I have also used a small solid pipe to knock the old ones out. (old axel :))
Very good video. I'm on my second set of bearings for the front of my John Deere tractor. I was going to put a set on my toe behind wagon, but discovered these bearings are not what they seem to be. By that I mean they are not a tapered roller bearing like you have on the front of your vehicle Wheels. So if your heavy duty and rough Terrain you might want to think of something else. Good luck with your bearings.
thank you for a decent video, lots of the others "claimed mechanics" on here can't seem to even use basic tools in common technic..... i couldn't bear watching the fools tear everything up in the process..... thanks for being legit!
If you were to pop the seals out on those new bearings *carefully* with a razor knife, it which would allow you to use the grease fitting on the wheel hub to get more grease inside of those bearings. Just a thought to make it work better for longer🤷♂️
Just my opinion, but that kind of defeats the purposed of a sealed bearing. If you were going that route, I'd just purchase a model of bearing that isn't sealed.
@@PROSDIY I would either get unsealed bearings or remove the inner seals on all the bearings. It`s not really defeating the purpose. Greasing the front wheels with sealed bearings is not doing ANYTHING for those bearings. That is what is defeating the purpose of a bearing.
I had only one bushing fail, on the inside front wheel. The rim on the bushing is gone and the bushing shoved itself into the hub (lawn tractor is about 40 years old). This allowed horizontal slop in the wheel and it destroyed the steel dust cover welded on the spindle. I ordered a set (4) of sealed BEARING replacements. Question 1., Since only one bushing failed, do I need to replace all of them, or can I just replace the one that failed? Question 2., Since the new bearings are sealed is it necessary to have any dust covers on the (inner or outer)? Question 3., Should you put a little grease on the outside bearing before tapping it in (to help it go in) or tap it in dry like you appeared to do. Thanks in advance.
I'm not so sure this is an upgrade. I just ordered a spindle/bearing kit for my LA145. Thinking about the bearings though, if they don't last the life of the mower, when they fail they will fail catastrophically whereas the OEM bushing will be subject to "graceful degradation" and not leave me stranded in the middle of the yard with crunchy bearings. When I receive my kit, I'll purchase bushings to replace the bearings.
I’d disagree. Mowers are incredibly light duty, the way I see it, the bearings mostly stop the steering spindles from being a wear item. Sloppy front wheels make for an odd cut that you’d swear was the deck level.
I'd like to do this upgrade, but I too am concerned about the longevity/ability of these bearings. They look much thinner than the bushings, and I am worried that downhill extreme turns will break the cage or pop these out entirely.
I have to wonder why there is a seal on the inside of the bearing if the axel has a grease fitting. I have seen this same issue with spindle bearings. You can pump in geese until the cows come home and it will never get to the bearing. On another note, I've never had a bushing in one of my current or past tractors. I was surprised to see that. I just assumed they all had bearings. Shame on these manufactures building cheap s#!t. Thanks for the great video and information.
If the bearings are sealed why do the put a zerk fitting on wheels? I don’t agree with you on the sealed bearings, My opinion is that the seal one the side of the bearing should be removed so when you grease the wheel grease will actually reach the bearings. I don’t feel the the grease in sealed bearings lasts. This is also the case the the mower spindles, another JD planed obsolescence to sell more parts
The grease fitting is there for the OEM bushings that were originally on the wheel. This guy is converting it to sealed bearings, which are NOT the parts that originally came with the wheel, so that fitting is no longer necessary. If he bought new bushings, he would indeed need to grease it up, otherwise the bushings would wear out quickly.
Would it have killed the manufacturer to have put bearings in the first place ?? Goes to show the contempt they have for the people who keep their business afloat.
What’s the point of the grease fittings on the wheels? If the bearings are sealed bearings, I would remove tHe inner seal so when you grease the wheel your greasing the bearings correct anybody else agree with me? There are also sealed bearings on the mower deck spindles, so when you cease the spindles no grease is getting to the bearings, I will be disassembling the spindles on my deck and removing the inner seal. I think this is planned obsolescence by John Deere
𝗔𝗺𝗮𝘇𝗼𝗻 𝗔𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗹𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀 John Deere Wheel Bearing AM127304: geni.us/Fsij8 Aftermarket Conversion Kit: geni.us/V7IaH Aftermarket Hardware Kit: geni.us/DStIB2 Disclosure: Pros DIY is an Amazon Associate. We earn a small commission from qualifying purchases through our affiliate links at no additional cost to you.
Straight forward easy description. Thanks for showing using a punch. Other videos showed a big awkward metal cone which I do not own. Liked that you used a socket to protect bearing during impaction. Appreciate the lack of dogs, yard scenery and other irrelevant verbiage.
I have a John Deere Sabre. These instructions were precise and complete.
This video is the best I've seen yet. You went straight to the point without any monologing. You're such a blessing among people.
Straightforward and to the point. No useless rambling commentary. Thanks.
Perfect video. Straight to the point and no nonsense. Thanks!
Great video straight and right to the point
Great video, looking to do this to an MTD!
Fantastic! Love the simple concise instructions.
Great video. So many of them don't explain using a socket or something with a hole so you don't push on the inner bearing. I agree with not greasing also, it's one of the reasons to use sealed bearing ! And thanks for not showing us how to buy them too. I have also used a small solid pipe to knock the old ones out. (old axel :))
Thank you for porting this helpful video!
Thank you! This was the best video - easy to understand and simple. Just what I needed!!
Thanks, very straight forward and easy to follow
Very good video. I'm on my second set of bearings for the front of my John Deere tractor. I was going to put a set on my toe behind wagon, but discovered these bearings are not what they seem to be. By that I mean they are not a tapered roller bearing like you have on the front of your vehicle Wheels. So if your heavy duty and rough Terrain you might want to think of something else. Good luck with your bearings.
thank you for a decent video, lots of the others "claimed mechanics" on here can't seem to even use basic tools in common technic..... i couldn't bear watching the fools tear everything up in the process..... thanks for being legit!
Excellent. Simple.😊
Adding to my upgrade list now
Thanks, very straight forward and informative!!
Excellent video 📹!
Nice and to the point. Thanks.
Where did you purchase these bearings from ?
You can take out the inner seals so you can pack them with grease and grease them twice a year.
Very nice tractor
Thanks. Very clear.
If you were to pop the seals out on those new bearings *carefully* with a razor knife, it which would allow you to use the grease fitting on the wheel hub to get more grease inside of those bearings. Just a thought to make it work better for longer🤷♂️
Just my opinion, but that kind of defeats the purposed of a sealed bearing. If you were going that route, I'd just purchase a model of bearing that isn't sealed.
the grease will just force the outer seal out of the bearing
@@PROSDIY I would either get unsealed bearings or remove the inner seals on all the bearings. It`s not really defeating the purpose. Greasing the front wheels with sealed bearings is not doing ANYTHING for those bearings. That is what is defeating the purpose of a bearing.
@@Wazoo117 No. The washer and E-clip will keep the seal from being pushed out. Besides, you are not supposed to force that much grease in there.
Did you consider needle bearings for the axle vertical part ?
great video on the matter
Good stuff thank you
Great video!
Very nice thank you!
I had only one bushing fail, on the inside front wheel. The rim on the bushing is gone and the bushing shoved itself into the hub (lawn tractor is about 40 years old). This allowed horizontal slop in the wheel and it destroyed the steel dust cover welded on the spindle. I ordered a set (4) of sealed BEARING replacements. Question 1., Since only one bushing failed, do I need to replace all of them, or can I just replace the one that failed? Question 2., Since the new bearings are sealed is it necessary to have any dust covers on the (inner or outer)? Question 3., Should you put a little grease on the outside bearing before tapping it in (to help it go in) or tap it in dry like you appeared to do. Thanks in advance.
Awesome..................
Very helpful, thanks for sharing. I think I can do this ; )
Can I do this to my 2020 Cub Cadet XT1?
Would these same bearings work in a X350 ?
I have a new John Deere S140.
It came with proper ball bearings...
good video00
I'm not so sure this is an upgrade. I just ordered a spindle/bearing kit for my LA145. Thinking about the bearings though, if they don't last the life of the mower, when they fail they will fail catastrophically whereas the OEM bushing will be subject to "graceful degradation" and not leave me stranded in the middle of the yard with crunchy bearings. When I receive my kit, I'll purchase bushings to replace the bearings.
I’d disagree. Mowers are incredibly light duty, the way I see it, the bearings mostly stop the steering spindles from being a wear item. Sloppy front wheels make for an odd cut that you’d swear was the deck level.
I'd like to do this upgrade, but I too am concerned about the longevity/ability of these bearings. They look much thinner than the bushings, and I am worried that downhill extreme turns will break the cage or pop these out entirely.
Bearings are cheaper than spindles. They remove future wear on the spindles.
I have to wonder why there is a seal on the inside of the bearing if the axel has a grease fitting. I have seen this same issue with spindle bearings. You can pump in geese until the cows come home and it will never get to the bearing. On another note, I've never had a bushing in one of my current or past tractors. I was surprised to see that. I just assumed they all had bearings. Shame on these manufactures building cheap s#!t. Thanks for the great video and information.
If the bearings are sealed why do the put a zerk fitting on wheels? I don’t agree with you on the sealed bearings, My opinion is that the seal one the side of the bearing should be removed so when you grease the wheel grease will actually reach the bearings.
I don’t feel the the grease in sealed bearings lasts.
This is also the case the the mower spindles, another JD planed obsolescence to sell more parts
The grease fitting is there for the OEM bushings that were originally on the wheel. This guy is converting it to sealed bearings, which are NOT the parts that originally came with the wheel, so that fitting is no longer necessary. If he bought new bushings, he would indeed need to grease it up, otherwise the bushings would wear out quickly.
Would it have killed the manufacturer to have put bearings in the first place ?? Goes to show the contempt they have for the people who keep their business afloat.
What’s the point of the grease fittings on the wheels? If the bearings are sealed bearings, I would remove tHe inner seal so when you grease the wheel your greasing the bearings correct anybody else agree with me? There are also sealed bearings on the mower deck spindles, so when you cease the spindles no grease is getting to the bearings, I will be disassembling the spindles on my deck and removing the inner seal. I think this is planned obsolescence by John Deere
I can't find good bearings ,I bought some one ebay and they were no good .I saw alot of people complaining about bad bearings.i have a john Deere s240
If the inner seal is not removed you will not get grease in the bearing. This seal must be left out.
𝗔𝗺𝗮𝘇𝗼𝗻 𝗔𝗳𝗳𝗶𝗹𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗲 𝗟𝗶𝗻𝗸𝘀
John Deere Wheel Bearing AM127304: geni.us/Fsij8
Aftermarket Conversion Kit: geni.us/V7IaH
Aftermarket Hardware Kit: geni.us/DStIB2
Disclosure: Pros DIY is an Amazon Associate. We earn a small commission from qualifying purchases through our affiliate links at no additional cost to you.
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