My favorite feature of your video is that you show us what your sled can do FIRST, and only THEN how it's made. That is, you "sell" us on *why* we want this, and once our interest is sufficient, we're in for the details. Yes, with other UA-camrs you can skip around all you want, but I think your approach is more logical and intuitive. From this alone--good videography!
I am in the process of building my sled. I added some epoxy under the t-track on the base to give a little more holding power since the screws are only 3/8". I put on the rear fence yesterday being very careful to keep it square to the blade, did the 5 cut method and the math and ended up with 0.0001". Good enough!
I am obsessed with thinking about the 5 cut method since I watched the video. And really once you're down to microscopic errors you're well within the error margin in the tools and materials.
This appears to be the ideal sled. Love the detail in the video. I have been doing outdoor projects for years. Always used a miter saw and circular instead of a sled on my table saw. Now it is time to do some detailed woodworking. I just ordered the plans. This will be a welcome accessory in my workshop.
That's a very well thought out sled, James! It's an inspiration for me to make something similar for my little Bosch contractor's table saw. I love how you show the whole process and explain how to do the tricky bits. And I love that this video is over an hour long! (Maybe not what the UA-cam algorithm likes, but who cares!) Looking forward to watching the second part!
I think I have the same little table saw you have. I was about to ask if that sled will work with mine or just the big fancy table saws. Do you know? Also, do you have issues adjusting your blad to a perfect 90 degree? Mine is a little off. I can get it there but I have to put a lot of pressure and lock it down while forcing it into place. And it eventually vibrates loose.
@@joeguilfoyle1922 if you get the right bars under the sled it will work. The slots on my table saw where a different size than the standard size. Getting the blade to 90 is difficult, sometimes the mechanism clog up with saw dust. Clean then out and make sure the set screw is set right. Hope this helps!
Wow, that is clever. What a superbly thought out piece of kit. Hope you've patented the design before the big boys nick all of your clever ideas! Thanks for posting.
@@KingsFineWoodworking in the beginning of the video, you cut a mitre and then took those 2 pieces and made a 90° corner? You do know that if your one cut is 45.25° the other cut will be 44.75°? Both total 90°. Being accurate would be cutting 4 pieces from the same side. Using both sides works if you are making a frame but sometimes you may only need 1 45° cut and then it may be off a hair. Also, if you reverse the mitre template to look like a V, you will get a smoother cut and no chipout on the inside of your mitres. Try it on a mitre saw, cutting mitres with the point against the fence or the point on the side where the degree handle is.
Explanation is ok. But you should watch the creators version. William Ng. The why’s and the benefits of the longer 5cut, the fence pivot factor ect. But anywho One awesome sleed
That's an AWESOME sled you designed.....very well thought out and I love that you've lightened the weight. It is great that your sled will do dado's too and will accommodate any width of regular blades. As always, your explanations and narrative are excellent. I missed seeing Princess supervising everything from her bed on the workbench but perhaps she was behind the camera filming this time! Best wishes from AZ!!!
37:10 Drill a Forstner bit hole through a small, thin scrap, then place the scrap, centered over your small hole, to position the Forstner exactly where you want it.
Mr. James you are a genius kind sir I’m sure this is a very fine product as are your hammers in which I love mine and I’m sure your plans are just as accurate as your Adirondack chairs and rockers and to which I have bought your plans and built seeral which are on point I love your attention to detail and your plans are most accurate if anyone is looking to buy this product or plans you are definitely in the right place! I am in no affiliate capacity whatsoever I’ve just bought plants in the past I’ve been very successful with such detailed plans! I am definitely considering purchasing this package as of I do have the Incra Miter sled myself as I think it would be very beneficial in my shop as well! Due to all the dados and zero clearance plates that are involved!
Awesome design! I did come here to say that there is a difference if you have a void area without glue though. It will act as a weak point (crack propagator) so you should try to glue the entire bond area with adhesive always. Better to have squeeze-out than not.
Just finished watching the entire video. I'm 69. Been a lawyer 40 years. Before that I worked with metal and wood. 2 ton punch press. 1000's of an inch. Excellent! Don't have the desire to re-invent the wheel. Send it to me. Thank you.
One sled to rule them all, one sled to find them, One sled to bring them all, and in the sawdust bind them; In the Land of Kingsfinewoodworking where the true cuts are..
Hey i just wanna point out that u said "That's Ryan there, ONE OF my daughter's boyfriends." Just pointing it out so you don't get her in trouble. Great videos man, I'm subscribing now.
Oh! Haha. I should have been more careful! It’s not one daughter with multiple boyfriends, haha. I have 5 daughters. Each with their own boyfriend or husband. 😂
@29:35 this is definitively *router territory* for me (a handheld router with straight edged "cradle" with spacers on a whole but pre-marked piece of ply = 5 min work and 100% straight cuts/shelves)
I am still getting used to my router. I would think a router would badly rip up the surface of that plywood wouldn't it? The forstner bit has tiny little protrusions to prescore the material it's about to remove to prevent tearing it.
I never thought I'd buy instead of build a sled, but at this price point, and the time investment, it makes no sense to build it myself. Looking forward to the shipping date.
When you do the 5 cut method you need to use the distance from the pivot point to the point you adjust, I believe, not just the entire length of the fence. It would help you if you selected an easy round distance from the side when you put that first screw in on the opposite side. (not that it makes much difference in this case, you're already working with very tight tolerances)
One of the fun eccentricities of furniture making is the obsession with reducing error.... I was thinking the same thing. I watched the video last night and couldn't stop thinking about the 5 cut method and where the miniscule error he had left over came from. It's the distance from the right hand pivot point to the left hand distance not the length of the fence. i watched his video a few times already and he does say the distance between the two screws at one point. I think he means the distance between the right hand pivot screw and the left hand stopping point where you shim it out. Bur he's putting the new left hand side screw really close to that same spot so it's the same thing for all intents and purposes. In fairness though at some point you're going to run into the natural +/- of the tools you're using. If the $30 caliper says 0.002" I do not trust that a different measurement a hair's width next to it isn't going to say 0.003". Plywood is not solid material. The blade vibrates VERY VERY slightly. There are miniscule errors being introduced everywhere in reality. We all know though the point is to control what you can control and know when to stop. And in this case we can control using the right distance as a multiplier on the error/in.
I built a super sled a couple of years ago and really like it, but It's so heavy I find that I avoid using it unless I'm going to use it a lot, and all of the add on accessories take up so much space. This is the most clever design I've seen.
That's a GREAT sled James. It would be nice if you would sell the zero clearance inserts. For us that do not have the CNC Machine, it would save us ALOT of work making several sets? ?? ???
I bet you can come up with a finger joint jig plate that swaps in place of the adjustable pieces on the fence. This would be a pin-and-slot jig like any used to make finger jointed boxes, but it fastens in place in the gap on the fence where the adjustable pieces usually sit. Various plates each with different pin and slot widths for different widths of fingers....
I was thinking of the exact same thing today. I was thinking a completely detachable fence but I like your idea too of removing the fence zero clearance inserts and making an adapter for box joint jig.
Hi James. I just got the basic build done on the sled. Cindy over at molasses Creek says you want comments if there's any problems. The only problem I've run into thus far is the t-nut holding the fence extension was counterbored too deep by about a 16th of an inch and prevented the extension from being pulled out. I knocked out the t-nut and ground down threaded section about 3/32 and that fixed the problem. No other issues as yet although I like Cindy's idea of screwing the safety box on rather than gluing. I'm going to see if I can remove mine and do it that way. Yes, I've already cut through the back of the safety box..
Thank you for the feedback! I should have caught that the t-nut was too deep, I apologize. Also, screwing in the safety box is a good idea. I didn’t think of that when I first designed everything.
Wow, what more can I say. New subscriber here and I'll be buying this fence in a couple of weeks. Waiting for my new house and woodworking shop to get completed so I'll have a place to store it (living in an RV during the build). Absolutely amazing cross cut sled, and something I was planning on building once I got my shop up and running, but I like your sled so much I'd rather just buy the entire thing than build my own as I'll have sooo much to get done in my shop building cabinets etc. to get the shop set up (yea, just 4 walls when I start) so buying it will help jump start me getting my key project (outfeed/setup table etc.) built.
I have your older sled. It works well, but it was very heavy. So I haven’t used it very much. This one looks lighter. I have a small sled for small boxes. It has both 90 deg and 45deg because it has a single runner.
Just finding your vids and they are great. I'm picking up a new (to me) Rockwell Unisaw this weekend and will be building a sled based off your design. You've thought of everything it seems. Oh, and I dig that assembly table too. All the best.
Thanks for taking the time to put together. I have a sheet of 1/2” BB plywood. Could I do the substitute without a lot of mental gymnastics, adjusting measurements? Just printed the plans and thought I’d take a shortcut if there is one. 🙂
I was thinking about that too. I just built mine from 3/8 using the plans. If you used 1/2"... The bolts the plan calls for might not be sufficient. 1/2" is 12mm thick and not 9mm. The button head bolts pretty comfortably reach the blind nuts with 3/8" stock. I suppose you could also recess the blind nuts a bit more to try to reach the bolts. Or make your channels for the zero clearance inserts a little deeper to help the bolts reach the blind nuts. It adds 33% to the weight. But.... it's reasonably weighted as is so that doesn't feel like a showstopper. The stop block hardware won't not be long enough with a thicker fence. Your back fence would be 36mm thick and not 27mm. You'd have to pick a new 1/4" aluminum rod from HD and a longer 1/4-20 hex bolt (even if you have to cut it down). My stop block only gives 1-1/4" between blocks until it's open "too far". You could get away with recessing the bolt head deeper into the block but I wouldn't do that with the 1/4" aluminum rods pins on each side. I studied the plans for several hours before building it, so I think I'm pretty familiar. I don't see anywhere the measurements of the cuts are affected by the primary board thickness. That said, I also used a piece of scrap 3/4" BB for the front fence instead of messing around with gluing 2 pieces of 3/8.
I am just near completion of this sled and everything seems to have worked out quite well, my only regret is that I used the best Home Depot plywood. It is too soft, it has voids and I hope the sled holds up. I chose Home Depot because there aren't many sources for baltic birch that is near me. Never again . I should have used a router to make the counter bored slots with the Home Depot ply, it probably would have been a lot cleaner with less tear out.
i noticed the board’s sliding around while clamping. Have you ever heard of a tip to sprinkle a little salt on your glue side. This helps with grip the wood while clamping.
this the first time viewing your channel. Glad you knew the tip already, you never know if you share a new tip or not. Great instructional video on the sled. I would like to build one someday.
I have the DEWALT 7491 installed in my work table with about 10” of table on each side of the saw table. Will the size of this sled work with the dewalt and my setup?
Love the sled and the nice detailed video on it. I'm sure I'll be building one to replace my other one you designed. Wouldn't it be easier and more precise to do the zero clearance slots on the router table as well as faster.
Just discovered your feed and this video. I don’t have a table saw but have been upgrading my 40 yr old bandsaw and recently built a simple sled for it. Wondering if this plan could be modified for a band saw. I’m particularly interested in the mitering ability for making accurate frames.
Great video & sled, thank you for taking the time to make the sled/plans along with produce & share the video. Would this sled work on a Bosch 4100XC-10 job site saw?
@@KingsFineWoodworking Thank you so much for the quick & honest reply. I actually purchased the OEM extension wings for the left side of the blade and the out feed/front of the saw that gives me an additional 18” inches in each. I’m hoping that will help. I’m seriously considering purchasing the premade sled.
The extension wings will help a lot! But the nice thing is, if you ever move to a bigger table saw, you simply unscrew the miter bars, and re-install this sled on your new saw. This sled should last forever out of Baltic birch!
James, Best sled I have ever seen. Hands down. Fantastic piece of work. For the kit version, are all the parts included for making picture frames? I assume you have to supply your own ruler and digital angle finder for the sled? Any recommendations on these? Thank you 🙏
Hi! Thank you! Actually everything you see is included when you buy the whole sled. The picture frame & miter function are both included. And the digital angle finder and the ruler are included too. Every single piece of hardware I show that’s used on the sled comes with it. Hold down clamp, toggle clamp, exotic wood stop, all of it. You don’t have to buy a single thing.
I have watched a lot off your videos including when your daughter made the pyramid box everything is so precise love the sliding sledge looks amazing. Just wondered what is the shipping cost to the United Kingdom 🇬🇧 you all keep up the great work your producing.😀😂😂
Either find a patent attorney to get things moving faster, or send the plans to the U. S. patent office in DC...I hope no one steals this. It is exceptional. A patent attorney will get things moving faster, but just a suggestion.
This sled will work on the Sawstop Jobsite saw, correct? I'm buying it for my daughter that is becoming a woodworker and want to support her growth in that regard.
Not seeing 3/8 inch at Home Depot or any other similar stores in my area (outside of $200 baltic birch). What thickness options would you recommend given the limitation of 3/8" plywood?
Question related to the gluing of the "T" nuts: would it be a good idea to glue the space before you pound in the nut to make the gluing be a stronger additional hold, since the glue would be on all parts that connect the sled to the nut that way?
Is there a description somewhere of what "some assembly required" means when purchasing the full sled? For example, am I getting a box of CNC pieces that has to be completely assembled? Am I getting a sled that is largely already assembled and I have to install the runners and the rear fence? etc. Also, does the kit include all the accessory items that will be described in the next video? Thanks for the great design, looking forward to replacing the original/heavier sled a built from your plans a few years ago...
I think I misspoke. We have several models here. But they all read to the 1/10th of a degree. I also don’t believe I’ve ever seen one that reads to 1/100th. They may exist. But you’d be looking at a multi-hundred dollar Mitutoyo or something similar.
I don't buy plans, I think woodworkers who sell plans to fellow woodworkers ain't doing them any favours, anyone can follow a cut list and it stiffles inovation. That being said I am happily going to buy this plan. Why? Because firstly the inovation you have put into it and the the fact you happily say "you can just copy the video" UA-cam needs more woodworker channels like yours. Please stay like this, you give those that are just starting out a great shot to have something great for free but still have to put some thought Into it. Tha k you again
My favorite feature of your video is that you show us what your sled can do FIRST, and only THEN how it's made. That is, you "sell" us on *why* we want this, and once our interest is sufficient, we're in for the details. Yes, with other UA-camrs you can skip around all you want, but I think your approach is more logical and intuitive. From this alone--good videography!
Thank you!
I didn't think you could improve your last once and now you've done it. Most thoughtful sled build ever!
Thank you. You’re very kind!
What a fantastic demonstration of how to build a super accurate sled.
Thanks James, What a great sled it seems to cover all cuts required on the Table Saw. Well done to all the Family.
I am in the process of building my sled. I added some epoxy under the t-track on the base to give a little more holding power since the screws are only 3/8". I put on the rear fence yesterday being very careful to keep it square to the blade, did the 5 cut method and the math and ended up with 0.0001". Good enough!
I am obsessed with thinking about the 5 cut method since I watched the video. And really once you're down to microscopic errors you're well within the error margin in the tools and materials.
This appears to be the ideal sled. Love the detail in the video. I have been doing outdoor projects for years. Always used a miter saw and circular instead of a sled on my table saw. Now it is time to do some detailed woodworking. I just ordered the plans. This will be a welcome accessory in my workshop.
Thanks!
Awesome! Looking forward to part 2.
That's a very well thought out sled, James! It's an inspiration for me to make something similar for my little Bosch contractor's table saw.
I love how you show the whole process and explain how to do the tricky bits. And I love that this video is over an hour long! (Maybe not what the UA-cam algorithm likes, but who cares!) Looking forward to watching the second part!
I think I have the same little table saw you have. I was about to ask if that sled will work with mine or just the big fancy table saws. Do you know? Also, do you have issues adjusting your blad to a perfect 90 degree? Mine is a little off. I can get it there but I have to put a lot of pressure and lock it down while forcing it into place. And it eventually vibrates loose.
@@joeguilfoyle1922 if you get the right bars under the sled it will work. The slots on my table saw where a different size than the standard size.
Getting the blade to 90 is difficult, sometimes the mechanism clog up with saw dust. Clean then out and make sure the set screw is set right. Hope this helps!
thank you@@c.a.g.1977
Wow, that is clever. What a superbly thought out piece of kit. Hope you've patented the design before the big boys nick all of your clever ideas! Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you, James, for another fantastic build! The amount of thought and planning always shines through in your designs. Now I must go build one!!!!
Awesome, thank you!
@@KingsFineWoodworking in the beginning of the video, you cut a mitre and then took those 2 pieces and made a 90° corner? You do know that if your one cut is 45.25° the other cut will be 44.75°? Both total 90°. Being accurate would be cutting 4 pieces from the same side. Using both sides works if you are making a frame but sometimes you may only need 1 45° cut and then it may be off a hair. Also, if you reverse the mitre template to look like a V, you will get a smoother cut and no chipout on the inside of your mitres. Try it on a mitre saw, cutting mitres with the point against the fence or the point on the side where the degree handle is.
I am not a carpenter and I enjoyed your video. Thanks
My wife said the same thing!
Great looking sled.. Love the different options on the sled!
Thank you! And thanks for watching!
Great video, James! You really spent alot of time thinking this sled through!
Thank you!! The next part is the fun part. Haha.
I’m apparently incapable of making a short video.
To be honest I think we all prefer the longer format when you are teaching.
Best explanation of the 5 cut method I've ever seen. Thanks!
Explanation is ok. But you should watch the creators version. William Ng.
The why’s and the benefits of the longer 5cut, the fence pivot factor ect.
But anywho
One awesome sleed
@@HavocSphere Yes, I have, and that's true.
That's an AWESOME sled you designed.....very well thought out and I love that you've lightened the weight. It is great that your sled will do dado's too and will accommodate any width of regular blades. As always, your explanations and narrative are excellent. I missed seeing Princess supervising everything from her bed on the workbench but perhaps she was behind the camera filming this time! Best wishes from AZ!!!
Princess was there in her spot on the assembly table watching us all. I think the couple scenes she was in got cut from the final video. ❤️
37:10 Drill a Forstner bit hole through a small, thin scrap, then place the scrap, centered over your small hole, to position the Forstner exactly where you want it.
I'm obsessed with this! I can't wait to buy one! Excellent job, so very inspiring.
Mr. James you are a genius kind sir I’m sure this is a very fine product as are your hammers in which I love mine and I’m sure your plans are just as accurate as your Adirondack chairs and rockers and to which I have bought your plans and built seeral which are on point I love your attention to detail and your plans are most accurate if anyone is looking to buy this product or plans you are definitely in the right place! I am in no affiliate capacity whatsoever I’ve just bought plants in the past I’ve been very successful with such detailed plans! I am definitely considering purchasing this package as of I do have the Incra Miter sled myself as I think it would be very beneficial in my shop as well! Due to all the dados and zero clearance plates that are involved!
You are very kind! Thank you!❤
Great video James, nice sled. Looking forward to see your next video on the rest of the accessories.
Thanks for sharing.
Just ordered mine! Can’t wait to get it!
I just completed my order for the sled...can't wait to get it!
Incredible design James!
Gotta hand it to ya, best in class I've seen. Thx.
Awesome design! I did come here to say that there is a difference if you have a void area without glue though. It will act as a weak point (crack propagator) so you should try to glue the entire bond area with adhesive always. Better to have squeeze-out than not.
I just ordered it. Video 2 will be a bonus
Just finished watching the entire video. I'm 69. Been a lawyer 40 years. Before that I worked with metal and wood. 2 ton punch press. 1000's of an inch. Excellent! Don't have the desire to re-invent the wheel. Send it to me. Thank you.
Great work. And thats a reasonable price for entire sled considering it includes baltic birch and everything else.
One sled to rule them all, one sled to find them, One sled to bring them all, and in the sawdust bind them; In the Land of Kingsfinewoodworking where the true cuts are..
@mitchelllabranch
If I wanted buy one of these sleds, what would it cost.
@@stevekramer0320they are on sale right now for $299. When the sale is over next week, they go back to $399
Are they still n sale!
@@michaelmustered7536 yes!!
James. Where have I been? 432k subs! Congratulations. Thanks for the content.
Super video. Super Sled. Might do it myself if I find the time. Seems a very enjoyable project. I like the way you present it!
Nice sled. Thanks for sharing
great video , not boring at all .
Very nice table saw sled... Thank-you
Impressive design and video. Good job! Just ordered the sled!
Excellent explanation of your innovative work. Will be ordering this.
Awesome. On your newsletter.
Brilliant design and work, James! Really well done!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
That’s an awesome sled, great job
Thanks 👍
Hey i just wanna point out that u said "That's Ryan there, ONE OF my daughter's boyfriends." Just pointing it out so you don't get her in trouble. Great videos man, I'm subscribing now.
Oh! Haha.
I should have been more careful! It’s not one daughter with multiple boyfriends, haha.
I have 5 daughters. Each with their own boyfriend or husband. 😂
@29:35 this is definitively *router territory* for me
(a handheld router with straight edged "cradle" with spacers on a whole but pre-marked piece of ply = 5 min work and 100% straight cuts/shelves)
I am still getting used to my router. I would think a router would badly rip up the surface of that plywood wouldn't it? The forstner bit has tiny little protrusions to prescore the material it's about to remove to prevent tearing it.
I never thought I'd buy instead of build a sled, but at this price point, and the time investment, it makes no sense to build it myself. Looking forward to the shipping date.
When you do the 5 cut method you need to use the distance from the pivot point to the point you adjust, I believe, not just the entire length of the fence. It would help you if you selected an easy round distance from the side when you put that first screw in on the opposite side.
(not that it makes much difference in this case, you're already working with very tight tolerances)
One of the fun eccentricities of furniture making is the obsession with reducing error....
I was thinking the same thing. I watched the video last night and couldn't stop thinking about the 5 cut method and where the miniscule error he had left over came from. It's the distance from the right hand pivot point to the left hand distance not the length of the fence.
i watched his video a few times already and he does say the distance between the two screws at one point. I think he means the distance between the right hand pivot screw and the left hand stopping point where you shim it out. Bur he's putting the new left hand side screw really close to that same spot so it's the same thing for all intents and purposes.
In fairness though at some point you're going to run into the natural +/- of the tools you're using. If the $30 caliper says 0.002" I do not trust that a different measurement a hair's width next to it isn't going to say 0.003". Plywood is not solid material. The blade vibrates VERY VERY slightly. There are miniscule errors being introduced everywhere in reality. We all know though the point is to control what you can control and know when to stop. And in this case we can control using the right distance as a multiplier on the error/in.
This is awesome James. I'm new to woodworking and am excited to see all the things I can do and make using this tool!
Thanks! And check out 2 on it. It’s out now.
ua-cam.com/video/IhIUWeSwwHE/v-deo.htmlsi=IqBhTomNjarz70pH
I built a super sled a couple of years ago and really like it, but It's so heavy I find that I avoid using it unless I'm going to use it a lot, and all of the add on accessories take up so much space. This is the most clever design I've seen.
Amazing sled!! Well done! Buying the plans right now. Temped to buy the complete, but I'll go ahead and build because, well its fun! Thank you!
Nice job! I don't need all the miter features but I'll definitely be using that zero clearance insert method on my new sled.
Love this sled. Please make a tutorial to use it to its full capability. I’m almost convinced…
That's a GREAT sled James. It would be nice if you would sell the zero clearance inserts. For us that do not have the CNC Machine, it would save us ALOT of work making several sets? ?? ???
I bet you can come up with a finger joint jig plate that swaps in place of the adjustable pieces on the fence. This would be a pin-and-slot jig like any used to make finger jointed boxes, but it fastens in place in the gap on the fence where the adjustable pieces usually sit. Various plates each with different pin and slot widths for different widths of fingers....
I was thinking of the exact same thing today. I was thinking a completely detachable fence but I like your idea too of removing the fence zero clearance inserts and making an adapter for box joint jig.
Keep them thumbs in my dude.
I got a bunch of projects and don’t have time, I just ordered the whole thing!
Hi James. I just got the basic build done on the sled. Cindy over at molasses Creek says you want comments if there's any problems. The only problem I've run into thus far is the t-nut holding the fence extension was counterbored too deep by about a 16th of an inch and prevented the extension from being pulled out. I knocked out the t-nut and ground down threaded section about 3/32 and that fixed the problem. No other issues as yet although I like Cindy's idea of screwing the safety box on rather than gluing. I'm going to see if I can remove mine and do it that way. Yes, I've already cut through the back of the safety box..
Thank you for the feedback! I should have caught that the t-nut was too deep, I apologize.
Also, screwing in the safety box is a good idea. I didn’t think of that when I first designed everything.
If you could think of everything there would be nothing left for we mere mortals to leave comments about.
hello from Australia. New Subscriber here Love your channel
Thank you!
looking forward to the kit form of your sled
As always great video and product!! Now to decide whether to build it with your plans or just buy one
Thanks for watching!
@KingsFineWoodworking thanks for your efforts!
Very cool James!! I definitely have to save up and get one from you! I’m impressed and much better the incra 5000hd!
That's a nice sled. subbed.
Thank you!!
Cool Design - Thanks!
Great video. Thank you for sharing
Wow, what more can I say. New subscriber here and I'll be buying this fence in a couple of weeks. Waiting for my new house and woodworking shop to get completed so I'll have a place to store it (living in an RV during the build). Absolutely amazing cross cut sled, and something I was planning on building once I got my shop up and running, but I like your sled so much I'd rather just buy the entire thing than build my own as I'll have sooo much to get done in my shop building cabinets etc. to get the shop set up (yea, just 4 walls when I start) so buying it will help jump start me getting my key project (outfeed/setup table etc.) built.
Awesome! And that sounds very exciting to be putting a new shop together!
I have your older sled. It works well, but it was very heavy. So I haven’t used it very much. This one looks lighter. I have a small sled for small boxes. It has both 90 deg and 45deg because it has a single runner.
The weight was a problem for us too. This one is less than 1/2 the weight! Plus it’s way more functional.
Thanks James! Can’t wait for mine to arrive!! Did you forget the link to the hex screwdriver or am I missing it?
Hi! Yes it sure will.
Great detailed video
Just finding your vids and they are great. I'm picking up a new (to me) Rockwell Unisaw this weekend and will be building a sled based off your design. You've thought of everything it seems. Oh, and I dig that assembly table too. All the best.
Awesome, thanks James!
one more...I see 11/32 ply at Lowes (8.73 MM or .344 thick. Is this the ply you reference?
I have the Milwaukee M18 table saw. The table is 22W 18D, will this sled work on it?
Just placed my order.
Thank you!
I have a Jet Jobsite portable table saw. Will this table sled work on a smaller table saw table?
Thanks for taking the time to put together. I have a sheet of 1/2” BB plywood. Could I do the substitute without a lot of mental gymnastics, adjusting measurements? Just printed the plans and thought I’d take a shortcut if there is one. 🙂
I was thinking about that too. I just built mine from 3/8 using the plans. If you used 1/2"...
The bolts the plan calls for might not be sufficient. 1/2" is 12mm thick and not 9mm. The button head bolts pretty comfortably reach the blind nuts with 3/8" stock. I suppose you could also recess the blind nuts a bit more to try to reach the bolts. Or make your channels for the zero clearance inserts a little deeper to help the bolts reach the blind nuts.
It adds 33% to the weight. But.... it's reasonably weighted as is so that doesn't feel like a showstopper.
The stop block hardware won't not be long enough with a thicker fence. Your back fence would be 36mm thick and not 27mm. You'd have to pick a new 1/4" aluminum rod from HD and a longer 1/4-20 hex bolt (even if you have to cut it down). My stop block only gives 1-1/4" between blocks until it's open "too far". You could get away with recessing the bolt head deeper into the block but I wouldn't do that with the 1/4" aluminum rods pins on each side.
I studied the plans for several hours before building it, so I think I'm pretty familiar. I don't see anywhere the measurements of the cuts are affected by the primary board thickness.
That said, I also used a piece of scrap 3/4" BB for the front fence instead of messing around with gluing 2 pieces of 3/8.
What size Forstner bits are you using?
I am just near completion of this sled and everything seems to have worked out quite well, my only regret is that I used the best Home Depot plywood. It is too soft, it has voids and I hope the sled holds up. I chose Home Depot because there aren't many sources for baltic birch that is near me. Never again . I should have used a router to make the counter bored slots with the Home Depot ply, it probably would have been a lot cleaner with less tear out.
i noticed the board’s sliding around while clamping. Have you ever heard of a tip to sprinkle a little salt on your glue side. This helps with grip the wood while clamping.
Sure. I do that sometimes. I explain how in my last sled video, and discuss the chemistry behind why it doesn’t affect the bond.
this the first time viewing your channel. Glad you knew the tip already, you never know if you share a new tip or not. Great instructional video on the sled. I would like to build one someday.
simple for you sir😀
I have the DEWALT 7491 installed in my work table with about 10” of table on each side of the saw table. Will the size of this sled work with the dewalt and my setup?
Hint: use a suitably sized ring spanner as a guide for the forcener bit if doing it freehand.
Love the sled and the nice detailed video on it. I'm sure I'll be building one to replace my other one you designed. Wouldn't it be easier and more precise to do the zero clearance slots on the router table as well as faster.
Amazing work as always.
I have a sawstop jobsite saw. Any easy/quick way to adapt the plans for a smaller saw?
Thanks.
Just discovered your feed and this video. I don’t have a table saw but have been upgrading my 40 yr old bandsaw and recently built a simple sled for it. Wondering if this plan could be modified for a band saw. I’m particularly interested in the mitering ability for making accurate frames.
With the 5 cut method do you have to start with a perfectly square piece first?
Great video & sled, thank you for taking the time to make the sled/plans along with produce & share the video. Would this sled work on a Bosch 4100XC-10 job site saw?
Yes it will if you have 2 miter slots. But it will feel big on that saw.
@@KingsFineWoodworking Thank you so much for the quick & honest reply. I actually purchased the OEM extension wings for the left side of the blade and the out feed/front of the saw that gives me an additional 18” inches in each. I’m hoping that will help. I’m seriously considering purchasing the premade sled.
The extension wings will help a lot! But the nice thing is, if you ever move to a bigger table saw, you simply unscrew the miter bars, and re-install this sled on your new saw. This sled should last forever out of Baltic birch!
@@KingsFineWoodworking Thank you!!
James,
Best sled I have ever seen. Hands down. Fantastic piece of work. For the kit version, are all the parts included for making picture frames? I assume you have to supply your own ruler and digital angle finder for the sled? Any recommendations on these?
Thank you 🙏
Hi!
Thank you! Actually everything you see is included when you buy the whole sled. The picture frame & miter function are both included. And the digital angle finder and the ruler are included too. Every single piece of hardware I show that’s used on the sled comes with it. Hold down clamp, toggle clamp, exotic wood stop, all of it. You don’t have to buy a single thing.
Thank you James.
I am in.
My order will be forthcoming.
I have watched a lot off your videos including when your daughter made the pyramid box everything is so precise love the sliding sledge looks amazing. Just wondered what is the shipping cost to the United Kingdom 🇬🇧 you all keep up the great work your producing.😀😂😂
Either find a patent attorney to get things moving faster, or send the plans to the U. S. patent office in DC...I hope no one steals this. It is exceptional. A patent attorney will get things moving faster, but just a suggestion.
Too late! Already in public domain…
This sled will work on the Sawstop Jobsite saw, correct? I'm buying it for my daughter that is becoming a woodworker and want to support her growth in that regard.
Yes. Absolutely.
Be aware that it will look large on that saw, but it will function perfectly.
Not seeing 3/8 inch at Home Depot or any other similar stores in my area (outside of $200 baltic birch). What thickness options would you recommend given the limitation of 3/8" plywood?
How can I purchase one ?
Look at the extended Description in the youtube video. He has links to various combinations of choices.
When the second video with the extras coming out or have I missed it?
very impressive!
Thanks!
…… and does it come with all accessories shown in video?😊
Question related to the gluing of the "T" nuts: would it be a good idea to glue the space before you pound in the nut to make the gluing be a stronger additional hold, since the glue would be on all parts that connect the sled to the nut that way?
Thanks James, do you send them to Australia ( west Australia )and how much please, our mens shed could use one that's for sure
James, so would this do the compound miters one would need to do a polygon?
Yes! Haha that’s the reason I made this sled in the very first place! I want to make a set of the platonic solids
I'll have to remake the fence because I didn't pay attention to gluing it against a flat surface and the result was a warped fence. Live and learn!
Is there a description somewhere of what "some assembly required" means when purchasing the full sled? For example, am I getting a box of CNC pieces that has to be completely assembled? Am I getting a sled that is largely already assembled and I have to install the runners and the rear fence? etc. Also, does the kit include all the accessory items that will be described in the next video? Thanks for the great design, looking forward to replacing the original/heavier sled a built from your plans a few years ago...
What kind of glue do you use? I know it's Tite bond, but what's the open time?
I have a Ridgid 10" tablesaw would this fit my saw
Yes! It sure will!
You mentioned your digital angle finder is accurate to 1/100 of a degree. That sounds wonderful -- which is it? Most are 30 times less precise.
I think I misspoke. We have several models here. But they all read to the 1/10th of a degree.
I also don’t believe I’ve ever seen one that reads to 1/100th. They may exist. But you’d be looking at a multi-hundred dollar Mitutoyo or something similar.
I don't buy plans, I think woodworkers who sell plans to fellow woodworkers ain't doing them any favours, anyone can follow a cut list and it stiffles inovation.
That being said I am happily going to buy this plan. Why? Because firstly the inovation you have put into it and the the fact you happily say "you can just copy the video" UA-cam needs more woodworker channels like yours.
Please stay like this, you give those that are just starting out a great shot to have something great for free but still have to put some thought Into it. Tha k you again
Thank you!!
I do always try to show every detail so that someone who likes it and has the experience can just copy it.