I followed your video instructions on my 14-50 outlet installation and it worked great, thanks for your help. As someone else already commented this is the best video that I found on UA-cam for this installation.
As an electrician who’s been installing Tesla chargers Nema receptacles and Wall Connectors for 4+ years this was pretty straight forward. Only reason your car doesn’t charge at 40amp is because it is a model 3, you would need the Tesla wall connector to bump it up to a 40amp charge, if it’s a Long Range you can go up to a 60amp breaker but unfortunately by code romex 6-3 is only good up to 50amp. Also always consult an electrician for a load calculation if you have existing appliances this makes sure you do not overload your panel(s) and start a fire. Good video👍🏻
One way to not overload you panel is to schedule charging during nitenite.. I have a 60amps breaker and charge at 48 amp at Nite. With all the electros power down..
@@pascalabessolo5350 not sure how would you cause a fire, - cause it has a main circuit breaker, which should theoretically trip once you will reach the limit.
One of the best, if not the best, vid I’ve seen on how to install the 240 V outlet. Straight forward and to the point, don’t need 45 min of extra unnecessary commentary that drags on. I’m planning on doing the 240 V outlet for my model 3 soon and this vid gave me the extra info. I needed to do it right. Thx!
Thank you so much! I watched 10 videos that were 10min each and they kept leaving steps out for a newbie like me. Your video went through every step with a simple explanation where I understood. Even the simple mistakes I can possibly run into. BEST video on how to install the 14-50, even explained compared to the 650. Thanks again!
Thanks so much. 😊 I compared the 14-50 and 6-50 in this video: ua-cam.com/video/XNOnVxI0tvk/v-deo.html. And don’t forget to use a GFCI breaker: ua-cam.com/video/BixGQisysDc/v-deo.html.
@@handydadtv just speaking the truth. People don’t realize how complicated they can make a simple process. Question: how much of the insulation do you strip off on the wires that your inserting into the Nema 1450 outlet?
This is a great video, I also install these plugs in my industrial shop working with 550v. My experience has taught me that no inspector will ever tell you,,this is too good, take it down. So I use #6/3 armor coat and anti shorts into the box connectors. I also run the clamp side of the box connectors outside the box, and the box connector nut, inside the box and a hammer and flat screwdriver to torque down the nut. This basically adds a 2nd ground to the fuse box, and 14/50 and it's box. With the white/ common wire, this essentially makes 3 good grounds. When installing the 14/50 I like to leave the bare ground extra long, from box connector to the ground screw in box, then straight to the 14/50 receptacle, no cuts in grounds, no wire nuts, straight run, ANY and every wire nut/ Marr connection, is a potential hot spot for shorts. Always tighten to spec. Otherwise,,good video.
Watched about 10 other videos to install a 14-50, yours is definitely the most straight forward. I was able to install based off you video. Saved myself some headaches. Only difference is I used a 50 amp gcfi breaker since thats code in my area.
@@handydadtv thanks Dad, btw may I please know if the wire knot is required for the metal box or not? Can I use a pvc box to replace the metal box so I don’t have to do the wire knot inside of this box? Thank you so much!!
Make sure to use a industrial grade NEMA 14-50 OUTLET as Tesla recommends like Hubbell. My outlet was an inexpensive $10 one which worked ok for 2 years but would heat up. I believe about a month ago Teslas up dated software gave me a notice saying outlet temperature was high and would reduce charging from 32a to 16a. I had a Hubble install. Works perfect now.
@@handydadtv I've used a regular shallow Leviton outlet at a remote location for years. Gen 1 charger at 240v/40a. The outlet never even gets warm. I needed a shallow NEMA 14-50 for the location. Otherwise, I would have used something better, but what I have works just fine at 40a.
Did you unplug and plug in the connector a lot in that 2 years? I put my wall connector in and even a wire holder so it cannot be moved at all, never have unplugged it but I do have the Leviton in there. I figure this is how it's meant to work, as it's meant for things like a dryer/range that never are unplugged.
@@whattheschmidt No, not a lot, and you are correct. I don't use that location often so the outlet is mostly unused. But when I'm there, I really need it. If these outlets are heating up, my guess is either the lugs aren't tight or there is corrosion.
Your video was a godsend, my Hubblle NEMA 14-50 will be going into the exact same spot as yours did. Thanks to your video I ordered the correct covering plate too.
Great video! You absolutely bought the correct outlet from Hubbell, but the only thing I didn't see you do is torque the screws for the wires. You did them by 'feel' apparently. Everything I've read and heard from licensed electricians with experience in installing high-current outlets like this is that it's extremely important to torque these properly. I bought a torque screwdriver for this purpose.
A lot of comments mentioned torquing so I did a follow-up: ua-cam.com/video/1BnK4a4aVpU/v-deo.html Ironically, many electricians tell me they never torque anything and they usually work on live circuits without turning off breakers.
@@DK-pr9ny I can't find the exact answer. I found that all 125V 20 amp circuits in a garage need to be GFCI protected. I can't find in the NEC that states a 250V 50 amp receptacle is required to have GFCI protection.
@@DK-pr9ny by code yes for general lighting and receptacles. there is a new code going into effect that requires GFCI breakers for any receptacle that is used for EV charging regardless if it’s inside or outside. In the past we never needed to use GFCI breakers when we installed these receptacles (inside or outside) but depending on your jurisdiction it may be required. Different jurisdictions start enforcing codes on different timelines.
@@bradleybruh Agreed in our jurisdiction our inspector required a 50amp GCFI NEC -625 .54 . Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Personnel 625.54(B) GFCI PROTECTION REQUIRED TIA17-2-All single-phase receptacles installed for the connection of electric vehicle charging that are rated 150 volts to ground or less, and 50 amperes or less shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel.
Fantastic video, very informative. I am comfortable working with electricity with lights and fans, but going into the electrical box is outside my comfort zone. I paid a licensed electrician (2 actually came) to install my NEMA 14-50. My box is in the basement and needed a 60-foot run to get to the garage. The electricians then ran a conduit to go up the wall, along the ceiling, and down between the 2 garage doors. Took the guys less than 3 hours, and cost me $1400. The company I used (EV United) got me a $1200 credit, so it only cost me $200 and zero leisure time. Looking back, I probably should have ordered the Tesla charger, but I'll make sure to add one when my Cybertruck arrives!
@@handydadtv I did leave out one detail: I had to switch energy providers for two years. I was happy to do it, as I now “get my power” from northern Indiana wind farms, via energy credits. I pay 9 cents more per kWh, but I don’t mind. This is what made the $1200, a one-time tax deduction they paid directly to me.
@@handydadtv If he had to run 6 AWG wire 60 ft through conduit, then wire alone would cost $250-300. Add $100 for the Hubbell 14-50 outlet. Then there's conduit, clamps, cover plate, etc. The point is that the material cost on his project alone would be around $500, affected greatly by the 60 ft. run. You had a great situation because you were installing the outlet right below your breaker box, so you avoided the considerable expense of a long run of wire. So the $1400 pro cost was probably more like $900 in labor, or $300/hr. Might seem high, but the electrician is a business (either by him/herself, or working for a business - equipment, truck, travel between jobs, billing, insurance, etc.), not just someone drawing a paycheck. Thanks for all the videos!!! Much appreciated.
Great video. Thanks. I am about to install my 14-50 at home. I am doing it myself but I did consult with a friend who is an electrician to make sure I am not missing something. Very well done and I appreciate that you hit all of the steps, even the baby steps. Subscribed as well. Looking forward to checking out some other videos.
Concise, clear, and straight to the point with explanations. I have a friend that is a electrician that will be installing my 14-50 for my mobile charger this week. I wanted to see the process of installing one and it looks very simple. SUBBED with notification.
Great DIY video Chris! Thank you for sharing. You made it look so easy installing that 14-50 outlet. The thing is you only getting 32A of charging is because the mobile charger is rated for 32A MAX. But still, 30 miles per hour is really good. There is really no need to buy the Tesla wall charger. I bought the wall charger and with the electrician + parts I paid $900. Too bad I didn’t see your DIY video before.
Hi Chris yes I totally agree charging at the lowest rate. Me too, I recharge overnight during off-peak hours. Can you please explain why you set yours to 15A and not 32A? You see, I’m new owning an electric car, I just bought it little over a week ago and I’m learning something new everyday. Mine is set to 48A because I have the wall charger with the 60A breaker. Thank you.
When you plug in your car after your daily commute, the app will say how many hours it will take to recharge. Assuming you’ll be sleeping for 8 hours, keep reducing the charge rate until it will take 8 hours to recharge. No need to use 48 amps unless you’re going out again soon. The faster you charge, the more it heats your equipment. More heat = higher risk. That’s my theory.
@@handydadtv Hi Chris, thank you for your prompt response and answering my question about why you’re charging to 15A and not 32A. So yes, why take the risk of fast charging when there’s no need because like you said fast charging = more heat = higher risk. I like that, So, I’ll follow your suggestion and adjust the charging amperage/time needed to charge to my 80% daily charging. Thank you 😃
I never did the math to verify how many miles per hour I was getting. It really doesn’t matter, though. I reduced my charge rate to 15 amps because that’s fast enough to recharge my daily commute overnight. Lower rates cause less heat to loosen connections.
You’re right I was getting ready to stop the video and tell you to ground the box. Otherwise great job and clean install. Believe me I know I’m nitpicking but maybe change that screw out to an actual green ground screw. And also dress those circuits in nicer. Google a few nicely dressed panels and see how it should look. Great job and love your channel.
Guys like you really push me to raise my game! I appreciate your advice. BTW. I have an electrical toolbox with tons of salvaged screws. All of my green screws were too small! It annoyed me, but I try not to sweat the small stuff.
@@handydadtv I just try to pass along the little knowledge I have when I see the opportunity. Your channel has helped me with countless projects and in different ways big and small and I know I’m not the only one. Keep it coming!!
I'll be installing a 14-50 receptacle in my garage soon. A deeper box would have allowed you to leave longer wires for the receptacle (6-8") and therefore allow that cable clamp to be tightened properly. Some codes require the ground wire to be looped to the box ground screw and then to the receptacle ground screw, providing a single continuous ground connection. In projects like this, I don't mind removing more drywall to provide easy access where necessary and then patching/painting it when done.
This video was just about perfect. Clear concise helpful. Thank you for showing the process in smooth video. Some are rushed and full of too much talk.
You might mention that some local code jurisdictions (like mine) require 240vac circuits like this (car charging, etc.) to use a 240vac GFCI breaker rather than a regular breaker to be compliant (and yes, they are not cheap). The logic is that your garage floor may be wet due to rain/snow melt/car wash run off and therefore present a greater shock hazard. Be sure to check you local codes. Also, the outer cable sheath should extend at least 1/2" past any box/panel board connector and not cut off cleanly at the top of the box connector.
I got the GFCI comment enough for me to cover the topic in a separate follow-up video: ua-cam.com/video/BixGQisysDc/v-deo.html Thanks for the tip on the cable insulation!
Great install, I need to install one too, since I have a reguliar bungalo and I don't have a garage, I need to install NEMA 14-50R Power Outlet, Lockable Weatherproof and drilling a hole in the basement cement, it's more work to do....
Your videos are amazing straightforward easy to understand and just wonderful thank you so much for being real and for being practical wishing you all the best with the channel
A few pointers here: They sell "old work" electrical boxes for installing in walls with drywall, so no drilling the box needed. When tightening a multistrand cable, wiggle the cable end as the set screw is being tightened, otherwise, the connection could loosen over time, causing a fire. When grounding the electrical box, make sure to use the same guage of wire for the pigtail (looks like thinner wire was used). As for mounting the box, leave about 6 inches of wire sticking out of the box and tighten the strain relief clamp. Install box, then install the receptacle. Then you then have to muscle the wires into the box. Not super easy, but it can be done with 6 guage wire.
Great video.. I'm trying to figure out what to do because my house the breaker is on other side of house and has the 30amp dryer circuit now powering the finished garage.. no great solution so far. Open to ideas. I would have to run either a new 20amp or 50amp through the first floor.. or MacGyver the current set up. 120v won't cut our 120 miles per day (school and sports) taxi service. 😆
I would absolutely leverage the existing dryer circuit rather than running another line. You can get a splitter that lets you keep both plugged in. Just make sure you tell the car to charge overnight when the dryer won’t be working (running both will trip the breaker). A 30-amp circuit should get you a charge rate of 20+ miles per hour, so that will more than cover your daily commute. I would only run a new line if that’s not good enough.
@HandyDadTV the problem is that dryer outlet is powering 6 other outlets now in the garage. So basically the 120v washer/dryer, fridge, freezer, and treadmill. I am going to either have to run a new 20 for all that or pull power from inside the house to cover those outlets.
Hey Dad, just wanna say love your vids they are super helpful. Im in Middlesex (moved from Brooklyn 2 years ago) and i ordered the Model Y, est delivery is August (sheesh) but hopefully it comes with the 4680 battery and other new features like heated wipers. Thanks for the links for the exact items, I’ll be purchasing them all soon to be ready.
I like your flush mounted 240V EV wall charger. It looks neater than the external mounted box with a metallic pipe isolation externally connected to the box.
Got mine installed. I expected the Tesla UMC plug to be difficult to insert and remove but it’s really easy. Hubbell was about 10 times the price of the others but I think it’s worth it. Finding the plate was difficult, be sure to confirm the hole size before buying. Also had to pay double to get the 14-15 for the UMC, Tesla really needs to get more stock and limit the number you can order to prevent scalping.
Great video, thanks! Not sure if I’d feel confident to do this install regardless since I have no experience or knowledge of electrical but at least I now know the job in which I’ll be paying someone to do. ☺️
9:40 Get some wire shears. Compared to diagonal cutters, wire shears require _far_ less force to cut and don’t crush the end of the wire. (It’s noticeable even on much smaller wire.) They don’t cost much, so I highly recommend some.
Run metal conduit maybe? My garage is detached and unfinished so I ran 3/4" conduit up and over to the far side of the garage. This was after I put in a 100 amp sub panel though (it was my main, put in 200amp main in my basement). Maybe you are talking about running above a room or something though.
CHRIS.... ALL I CAN SAY is U R 1 AWESOME... SUPER SMART DUDE...I WISH YOU WERE MY NEXT DOOR NEIGHBOR SO I COULD HIRE YOU. THANK YOU FOR SUCH A GREAT VIDEO...I REALLY LIKE HOW DETAILED U R & HOW SMOOTH U EXPLAIN EVERYTHING....PEACE TO U & UR FAMILY....STAY SAFE & PLEASE NEVER STOP MAKING THESE GREAT VIDEOS. KUDOS TO YOU ALWAYS ....CHEERS
@@handydadtv Thanks a Million Chris for your Kind Reply …I was very happy to Receive a Reply Back …So U know in Addition to Payment for your Services…Ur Beverages of Choice would All be on me in Addition to An Invitation to Dinner . Thanks again Friend & Keep up Ur Awesome Videos …Simple …Direct & Very Detailed. I know for Sure U R Well Appreciated by Not Only me but …Many on UTube …Peace & Cheers
One more comment on grounding. 15:30 Have you noticed they put the ground screw right under where you tighten the wires to the outlet. That's a very small gap between the ground screw head and the X hot wire hardware. It's like they are tempting fate with a possible arc over. Paranoid as I am I drilled and tapped a new 5/32" hole up in a corner. BTW, I just saw a video that the ground screw MUST be green to be up to code. I had to dig through a box of hardware to find one (It pays to be a pack rat.)
I really appreciate your recommendation of a quality outlet. The Hubbel now seems to be $98 which is more than you paid. I don’t need this til March so will keep an eye on it before purchase.
I don’t have a crystal ball, but I don’t think these things are getting cheaper. NEMA 6-50 is a cheaper alternative and I’ll be doing a video on that in January. Be sure to subscribe.
@@handydadtv Awesome! One more question. How many feet cable you bought? My breaker is similar with 200 Amps, but kill switch is on the bottom, yours on the top. I want to do similar what you did, to put nema socket close to the breaker. I appreciate your time answering my questions. Blessings to you and your family!
NEC requires a GFCI breaker for a NEMA 14-50 outlet, you are using a standard breaker so it does not meet code. You can use a standard breaker if you hard wire the charger but if someone inspects the wiring when you sell your house or there is a fire and they find this it will affect your insurance payout. This requirement is regardless of whether the charger has an inbuilt GFCI as the NEC requirement is for the outlet no matter what you plug into it.
@@handydadtv That article is an excellent explanation of the reqirement. I find some NEC requirements annoying but as that shows the latest code allows you to hard wire the charger if it has an in-built GFI, but if you are installing an outlet such as a NEMA 14-50 outlet in a garage then it must be protected by a GFI breaker in your load center. I am told the thinking is that if someone unplugged the charger - say you sell your house and take your charger - then the outlet is unprotected in a wet place. Most chargers can be hard wired and do have an in-built GFI however most people have them plugged into an outlet as you can upgrade, replace or remove them yourself if you do. The down side as the article states is that instead of a $25 breaker you need to use a $120 breaker - not appreciated by most customers but if you want to meet code that is unfortunately what you need to do. Good videos and very helpful for people who want to do a good job that meets code and is safe. Thanks.
Two GFCI's on the same circuit (in the breaker and in the EVSE) causes lots ot unwanted trips, and is a PITA... Like lots of folks, I'll choose to live dangerously with just one GFCI and a plug in set up...
Thank U for ur educational video. Recently heard arcing sound coming from 14-50 outlet. During inspection found completely melted and separated from main plastic body . Ordered industrial strength outlet and I’ll be confident to tackle this.
Good move! I’ve heard the UMC plug has a heat sensor that should slow or stop charging before it starts a fire, but I feel better knowing I have a heavy duty outlet.
That is usually caused by a loose connection, not the outlet. For stranded wire (Romex 8 guage and larger), wiggle the wire end as the lug is tightened. Otherwise, the connection could loosen.
You cut the insulation on the black hot one when you stripped the cable covering going into the box. When tightening the outlet to the wires you didn’t torque it properly you needed to bend the outlet a few times and then retighten and repeat a couple of times in order for the wire strands to set into place just tightening them down initially doesn’t do the job.❤
At 15:18 the ground wire to the outlet is grounded to the mounting plate which is grounded to the electrical box. Or is that not good enough? Even the cover plate is grounded just by being attached to the mounting plate. It's almost impossible to NOT ground the box. You'd have to use plastic screws and insulating washers for it not to be grounded.
Boxes don’t come with screws whether metal or plastic. If you go with metal, you need to buy a green ground screw to bond the ground wire to the box. The cover plate should come with screws.
Great video. Very detailed steps & easily explained. You have given me the inspiration to install it myself. Quick question, is a permit required from township to install it ? Thanks
That conductor on the outlet would be “open”, ie. not connected. Although your EV charger probably doesn’t use the neutral conductor, technically it should be connected. If you want to avoid connecting a third wire, consider the 6-50 outlet instead. ua-cam.com/video/XNOnVxI0tvk/v-deo.html
great video!! two questions please? is it important to have a metal wall box vs plastic? does it matter where you put the black/red wires on the breakers?
15:25 I’m curious if I can I avoid grounding if I use a plastic electrical box? Any benefit of using metal over plastic? If you recommend metal, for ground did you use 3 copper wires and bind them together in the cap? Everything else makes perfect sense in the video. Great tutorial!
@@handydadtvThanks a lot for the quick response good sir. I hit up my fellow marine friend who was an electrician and he helped me torque mine down after my electrician didn’t. Everything else on the install checked out though. I was watching the electrician like a hawk and good thing I noticed he just used his allen wrench. I used the same torque screwdriver you recommended (amazon same day) and torqued everything down. Feeling a lot better now.
I was going to install one and today I was driving and remembered that they have a nema for an electric dryer already in my room. I have an opening to the garage so I can run my cord. My question is Can I just swap the nema in place now for the other? Mine says “ Nema 10-30 then on the bottom it says 125-250. Can I use this and put the one you have in yours? Thanks for the great video
Good question! If you have a Tesla, you can get a NEMA 10-30 adapter for your UMC. If not, yes you can replace the outlet to a 14-50 but you need to configure your car charging to be 80% of the breaker size. Assuming it’s a 30-amp breaker, charge at 24 amps max. If you use the Tesla adapter, it will do that automatically.
Good video. My new construction home came prewired with a plastic receptacle box. I’ll just need to add the 14-50 plug myself. I’m guessing it doesn’t matter whether I use a plastic vs metal cover plate for my plastic receptacle box?
Great video. What if i use the splitter and extension on stove plug? I dont have space in my wall main switch for extra and prolly i will sell my house soon.
Demand for the 14-50 receptacle is insane and prices are through the roof. There is a cheaper alternative that works just as well: ua-cam.com/video/XNOnVxI0tvk/v-deo.html
Great Video! You mentioned the ground has to be installed up for Tesla. Is the true? I wanted to flip my outlet, but now I’m not sure if I should do this.
THanks for your video. very detailed procedure for the installation. I have one question for your help, unlike your panel, for my load center, i found that ground and neutral are connected together, so in that case, how shall i connect the white wire and ground wire ?
Very helpful vid, Thanks!!! Could you please let me know the device box you used for Hubbell HBL9450A? I am having a hard time to find a compatible box. Thanks a lot!
I am posting this to share my experience with home charging my Model S using the mobile charger plugged into a NEMA 14-50 outlet. Two years ago I had an electrical service company install the outlet. They ran about 20 ft. of #8 in conduit to a surface mounted box. They installed a Pass & Seymour outlet, which by all accounts is supposed to work fine for EV charging. Then a few months ago I dropped the charging current down from 40A to 30A because in my opinion the outlet was getting way too warm, even hot let's say. Even the conduit was quite warm. Then recently I started researching this topic further and found that there's a big difference in design, materials, build quality, duty cycle specification, etc. between outlet manufacturers. I decided to replace the outlet with a Hubbell 9450A NEMA 14-50, which costs like six times more than the one I had installed. As I took out the old outlet I noticed a couple of things: 1) The wires were not tightened down sufficiently in my opinion. 2) The design of the old outlet used the typical set screw arrangement where the screw end itself contacts the wire. Thus I found that the strands of the wire were crushed where the set screw contacted them. I also noticed that this type of design prevents all the strands of the wire from making full contact inside for at least 1/2 of the wire's circumference. So I cut off the damaged parts and re-stripped the wire very carefully before installing the new outlet. Worth noting that the Hubbell has the hex set screw tightening the wire against all copper pieces inside without the screw itself contacting the wire. Almost all the wire strands are therefore making maximum contact with more surface area for each blade. A superior design that minimizes resistance at the connection. I'm charging at the full 40A now and the outlet, the box and the conduit aren't warm at all. The mobile charger plug is not that warm to the touch. Just normal warmth as I judge it.
Perhaps it was Lowe’s. I didn’t buy it online. But others have disagreed with my approach saying the clamp needs to be outside of the panel box. So they recommended using one with a lug nut and clamping it to the wire before passing it into the panel from below. Then screw on the lug nut from inside.
This guy is great! He goes quick enough to not drag, but thorough enough so I don't get left with any questions.
Thanks so much 😊
Just use a green grounding screw for a metal box
I followed your video instructions on my 14-50 outlet installation and it worked great, thanks for your help. As someone else already commented this is the best video that I found on UA-cam for this installation.
Thanks so much. I’m glad it was helpful. 👍🏻
As an electrician who’s been installing Tesla chargers Nema receptacles and Wall Connectors for 4+ years this was pretty straight forward. Only reason your car doesn’t charge at 40amp is because it is a model 3, you would need the Tesla wall connector to bump it up to a 40amp charge, if it’s a Long Range you can go up to a 60amp breaker but unfortunately by code romex 6-3 is only good up to 50amp. Also always consult an electrician for a load calculation if you have existing appliances this makes sure you do not overload your panel(s) and start a fire. Good video👍🏻
Thanks so much
The gen2 umc can only charge 32a. But a gen1 umc can do 40a.
Good to know. Thanks.
One way to not overload you panel is to schedule charging during nitenite.. I have a 60amps breaker and charge at 48 amp at Nite. With all the electros power down..
@@pascalabessolo5350 not sure how would you cause a fire, - cause it has a main circuit breaker, which should theoretically trip once you will reach the limit.
One of the best, if not the best, vid I’ve seen on how to install the 240 V outlet. Straight forward and to the point, don’t need 45 min of extra unnecessary commentary that drags on. I’m planning on doing the 240 V outlet for my model 3 soon and this vid gave me the extra info. I needed to do it right. Thx!
My pleasure
Thank you so much! I watched 10 videos that were 10min each and they kept leaving steps out for a newbie like me. Your video went through every step with a simple explanation where I understood. Even the simple mistakes I can possibly run into. BEST video on how to install the 14-50, even explained compared to the 650. Thanks again!
Thanks so much. 😊
I compared the 14-50 and 6-50 in this video: ua-cam.com/video/XNOnVxI0tvk/v-deo.html.
And don’t forget to use a GFCI breaker: ua-cam.com/video/BixGQisysDc/v-deo.html.
Seriously, I’ve watched about 50 videos on how to install a Nema 1450, and this was the best out of all of them. Great job.
Thanks so much 😊
@@handydadtv just speaking the truth. People don’t realize how complicated they can make a simple process. Question: how much of the insulation do you strip off on the wires that your inserting into the Nema 1450 outlet?
I really appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment like this. 👍🏻
There is a strip gauge on the receptacle.
I enjoyed watching you do this. For someone who is not an licensed electrician, you did a great job, I believe! Bravo!🇨🇦
Thanks so much 😊
This is a great video, I also install these plugs in my industrial shop working with 550v. My experience has taught me that no inspector will ever tell you,,this is too good, take it down. So I use #6/3 armor coat and anti shorts into the box connectors. I also run the clamp side of the box connectors outside the box, and the box connector nut, inside the box and a hammer and flat screwdriver to torque down the nut. This basically adds a 2nd ground to the fuse box, and 14/50 and it's box. With the white/ common wire, this essentially makes 3 good grounds.
When installing the 14/50 I like to leave the bare ground extra long, from box connector to the ground screw in box, then straight to the 14/50 receptacle, no cuts in grounds, no wire nuts, straight run, ANY and every wire nut/ Marr connection, is a potential hot spot for shorts. Always tighten to spec. Otherwise,,good video.
Thanks for the tips!
This is the best video I have come across for installing the 14-50. Clear as a bell what need to be done. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Now thats what i call a clear cut video. Every details were captured. Appreciated bud
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Watched about 10 other videos to install a 14-50, yours is definitely the most straight forward. I was able to install based off you video. Saved myself some headaches. Only difference is I used a 50 amp gcfi breaker since thats code in my area.
Yeah pretty sure it’s required nationally, but I didn’t spend the extra money. The UMC has built-in GFCI so I’m protected anyway.
@@handydadtv may i please ask how do i check the breaker codes in my area
Start with your town’s construction office website.
@@handydadtv thanks Dad, btw may I please know if the wire knot is required for the metal box or not? Can I use a pvc box to replace the metal box so I don’t have to do the wire knot inside of this box? Thank you so much!!
I didn’t know the wire, but sure you can use a plastic box if your code allows it.
Make sure to use a industrial grade NEMA 14-50 OUTLET as Tesla recommends like Hubbell. My outlet was an inexpensive $10 one which worked ok for 2 years but would heat up. I believe about a month ago Teslas up dated software gave me a notice saying outlet temperature was high and would reduce charging from 32a to 16a. I had a Hubble install. Works perfect now.
Thanks for letting us know!
I always wondered what'd happen if using any outlet than Hubbell. Thanks for letting us know.
@@handydadtv I've used a regular shallow Leviton outlet at a remote location for years. Gen 1 charger at 240v/40a. The outlet never even gets warm. I needed a shallow NEMA 14-50 for the location. Otherwise, I would have used something better, but what I have works just fine at 40a.
Did you unplug and plug in the connector a lot in that 2 years? I put my wall connector in and even a wire holder so it cannot be moved at all, never have unplugged it but I do have the Leviton in there. I figure this is how it's meant to work, as it's meant for things like a dryer/range that never are unplugged.
@@whattheschmidt No, not a lot, and you are correct. I don't use that location often so the outlet is mostly unused. But when I'm there, I really need it. If these outlets are heating up, my guess is either the lugs aren't tight or there is corrosion.
Your video was a godsend, my Hubblle NEMA 14-50 will be going into the exact same spot as yours did. Thanks to your video I ordered the correct covering plate too.
Glad it was helpful 😊
Link in description
Great video! You absolutely bought the correct outlet from Hubbell, but the only thing I didn't see you do is torque the screws for the wires. You did them by 'feel' apparently. Everything I've read and heard from licensed electricians with experience in installing high-current outlets like this is that it's extremely important to torque these properly. I bought a torque screwdriver for this purpose.
A lot of comments mentioned torquing so I did a follow-up: ua-cam.com/video/1BnK4a4aVpU/v-deo.html
Ironically, many electricians tell me they never torque anything and they usually work on live circuits without turning off breakers.
Electrician approved. Good call using the metal box over a plastic one. Harder to install but a lot stronger in the end. Another great video!
Thanks so much
Isn’t a GFCI breaker required for a garage outlet?
@@DK-pr9ny I can't find the exact answer. I found that all 125V 20 amp circuits in a garage need to be GFCI protected. I can't find in the NEC that states a 250V 50 amp receptacle is required to have GFCI protection.
@@DK-pr9ny by code yes for general lighting and receptacles. there is a new code going into effect that requires GFCI breakers for any receptacle that is used for EV charging regardless if it’s inside or outside. In the past we never needed to use GFCI breakers when we installed these receptacles (inside or outside) but depending on your jurisdiction it may be required. Different jurisdictions start enforcing codes on different timelines.
@@bradleybruh Agreed in our jurisdiction our inspector required a 50amp GCFI
NEC -625 .54 . Ground-Fault
Circuit-Interrupter
Protection for
Personnel
625.54(B) GFCI PROTECTION REQUIRED TIA17-2-All
single-phase receptacles installed for the connection of electric
vehicle charging that are rated 150 volts to ground or less, and
50 amperes or less shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter
protection for personnel.
Fantastic video, very informative. I am comfortable working with electricity with lights and fans, but going into the electrical box is outside my comfort zone. I paid a licensed electrician (2 actually came) to install my NEMA 14-50. My box is in the basement and needed a 60-foot run to get to the garage. The electricians then ran a conduit to go up the wall, along the ceiling, and down between the 2 garage doors. Took the guys less than 3 hours, and cost me $1400.
The company I used (EV United) got me a $1200 credit, so it only cost me $200 and zero leisure time. Looking back, I probably should have ordered the Tesla charger, but I'll make sure to add one when my Cybertruck arrives!
$1,200 credit for an outlet installation? I’m impressed.
@@handydadtv I did leave out one detail: I had to switch energy providers for two years. I was happy to do it, as I now “get my power” from northern Indiana wind farms, via energy credits. I pay 9 cents more per kWh, but I don’t mind. This is what made the $1200, a one-time tax deduction they paid directly to me.
Gotcha
@@handydadtv If he had to run 6 AWG wire 60 ft through conduit, then wire alone would cost $250-300. Add $100 for the Hubbell 14-50 outlet. Then there's conduit, clamps, cover plate, etc. The point is that the material cost on his project alone would be around $500, affected greatly by the 60 ft. run. You had a great situation because you were installing the outlet right below your breaker box, so you avoided the considerable expense of a long run of wire. So the $1400 pro cost was probably more like $900 in labor, or $300/hr. Might seem high, but the electrician is a business (either by him/herself, or working for a business - equipment, truck, travel between jobs, billing, insurance, etc.), not just someone drawing a paycheck.
Thanks for all the videos!!! Much appreciated.
A pro should also know that a GFCI breaker is required so add $130+ for that.
Best and easiest instructions I've found on UA-cam so far. Thank YOU!
Thanks so much 😊
HandyDad, you did a great job explaining step by step on every step to install a 240 outlet. Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Great video. Thanks. I am about to install my 14-50 at home. I am doing it myself but I did consult with a friend who is an electrician to make sure I am not missing something. Very well done and I appreciate that you hit all of the steps, even the baby steps. Subscribed as well. Looking forward to checking out some other videos.
Thanks for subscribing! Welcome to the family!
I could have seen this video before making an appointment with an electrician. You made it look so simple DIY task. Subscribed for future DIY’s.
Thanks for subscribing! Welcome to the family!
Almost perfect! :) Just one extra step I would make, - vacuum panel before putting it back together 😀
Haha good one.
Concise, clear, and straight to the point with explanations. I have a friend that is a electrician that will be installing my 14-50 for my mobile charger this week. I wanted to see the process of installing one and it looks very simple. SUBBED with notification.
Thanks for subscribing! Welcome to the family!
I don't own a Tesla, but this was a very nice informative video that I enjoyed watching anyways. Love your content. Thank you!
Awesome! Thank you!
Great DIY video Chris! Thank you for sharing. You made it look so easy installing that 14-50 outlet. The thing is you only getting 32A of charging is because the mobile charger is rated for 32A MAX. But still, 30 miles per hour is really good. There is really no need to buy the Tesla wall charger. I bought the wall charger and with the electrician + parts I paid $900. Too bad I didn’t see your DIY video before.
I believe in charging at the lowest rate needed to recharge overnight for my daily commute. Mine is set to 15 amps.
Hi Chris yes I totally agree charging at the lowest rate. Me too, I recharge overnight during off-peak hours. Can you please explain why you set yours to 15A and not 32A? You see, I’m new owning an electric car, I just bought it little over a week ago and I’m learning something new everyday. Mine is set to 48A because I have the wall charger with the 60A breaker. Thank you.
When you plug in your car after your daily commute, the app will say how many hours it will take to recharge. Assuming you’ll be sleeping for 8 hours, keep reducing the charge rate until it will take 8 hours to recharge.
No need to use 48 amps unless you’re going out again soon.
The faster you charge, the more it heats your equipment. More heat = higher risk. That’s my theory.
@@handydadtv Hi Chris, thank you for your prompt response and answering my question about why you’re charging to 15A and not 32A. So yes, why take the risk of fast charging when there’s no need because like you said fast charging = more heat = higher risk. I like that, So, I’ll follow your suggestion and adjust the charging amperage/time needed to charge to my 80% daily charging. Thank you 😃
I never did the math to verify how many miles per hour I was getting. It really doesn’t matter, though. I reduced my charge rate to 15 amps because that’s fast enough to recharge my daily commute overnight. Lower rates cause less heat to loosen connections.
You’re right I was getting ready to stop the video and tell you to ground the box. Otherwise great job and clean install. Believe me I know I’m nitpicking but maybe change that screw out to an actual green ground screw. And also dress those circuits in nicer. Google a few nicely dressed panels and see how it should look. Great job and love your channel.
Guys like you really push me to raise my game! I appreciate your advice.
BTW. I have an electrical toolbox with tons of salvaged screws. All of my green screws were too small! It annoyed me, but I try not to sweat the small stuff.
@@handydadtv I just try to pass along the little knowledge I have when I see the opportunity. Your channel has helped me with countless projects and in different ways big and small and I know I’m not the only one. Keep it coming!!
Thanks so much 😊
One of the best UA-cam videos I seen.
Thanks so much 😊
That vwas definitely worth it, and you're lucky that your panel is literally right there...
6 feet of wire. I’m a lucky man for sure.
I’m going to show this video to my wife and hopefully she will let me do this install on my own. 🤞
Good luck with that.
I'll be installing a 14-50 receptacle in my garage soon. A deeper box would have allowed you to leave longer wires for the receptacle (6-8") and therefore allow that cable clamp to be tightened properly. Some codes require the ground wire to be looped to the box ground screw and then to the receptacle ground screw, providing a single continuous ground connection. In projects like this, I don't mind removing more drywall to provide easy access where necessary and then patching/painting it when done.
Thanks for the feedback!
some codes ? ALL !!! you dont bond that metal box someone going to die
Thanks mate, followed your video as I wanted the outlet under the breaker box just like yours, great diy video for a non electrician to follow.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Just make sure those connections are tight!
This video was just about perfect. Clear concise helpful. Thank you for showing the process in smooth video. Some are rushed and full of too much talk.
Thanks so much 😊
Thanks to this video I just got done installing mine. Voltage is good at the outlet and now I just have to wait on my car.
The waiting is the hardest part
@@handydadtv yes it is, luckily I'm down to a few weeks. Keep up the good work on the videos.
You might mention that some local code jurisdictions (like mine) require 240vac circuits like this (car charging, etc.) to use a 240vac GFCI breaker rather than a regular breaker to be compliant (and yes, they are not cheap). The logic is that your garage floor may be wet due to rain/snow melt/car wash run off and therefore present a greater shock hazard. Be sure to check you local codes. Also, the outer cable sheath should extend at least 1/2" past any box/panel board connector and not cut off cleanly at the top of the box connector.
I got the GFCI comment enough for me to cover the topic in a separate follow-up video: ua-cam.com/video/BixGQisysDc/v-deo.html
Thanks for the tip on the cable insulation!
Great video for beginner who want to have some understanding on getting NEMA 14-50 outlet for a new owner of Tesla.
Now watch this to see why I don’t recommend it. ua-cam.com/video/R2cRNzSbw48/v-deo.html
Great install, I need to install one too, since I have a reguliar bungalo and I don't have a garage, I need to install NEMA 14-50R Power Outlet, Lockable Weatherproof and drilling a hole in the basement cement, it's more work to do....
Mine was trivial compared to yours
Your videos are amazing straightforward easy to understand and just wonderful thank you so much for being real and for being practical wishing you all the best with the channel
Thanks so much 😊
A few pointers here: They sell "old work" electrical boxes for installing in walls with drywall, so no drilling the box needed. When tightening a multistrand cable, wiggle the cable end as the set screw is being tightened, otherwise, the connection could loosen over time, causing a fire. When grounding the electrical box, make sure to use the same guage of wire for the pigtail (looks like thinner wire was used). As for mounting the box, leave about 6 inches of wire sticking out of the box and tighten the strain relief clamp. Install box, then install the receptacle. Then you then have to muscle the wires into the box. Not super easy, but it can be done with 6 guage wire.
Thanks for the tips!
Dying to see the shed update. Great video!
Still working on it!
Great video.. I'm trying to figure out what to do because my house the breaker is on other side of house and has the 30amp dryer circuit now powering the finished garage.. no great solution so far. Open to ideas. I would have to run either a new 20amp or 50amp through the first floor.. or MacGyver the current set up. 120v won't cut our 120 miles per day (school and sports) taxi service. 😆
I would absolutely leverage the existing dryer circuit rather than running another line. You can get a splitter that lets you keep both plugged in. Just make sure you tell the car to charge overnight when the dryer won’t be working (running both will trip the breaker). A 30-amp circuit should get you a charge rate of 20+ miles per hour, so that will more than cover your daily commute. I would only run a new line if that’s not good enough.
@HandyDadTV the problem is that dryer outlet is powering 6 other outlets now in the garage. So basically the 120v washer/dryer, fridge, freezer, and treadmill. I am going to either have to run a new 20 for all that or pull power from inside the house to cover those outlets.
Sounds like you know what you want to do. 👍🏻
@@BTheInstaller the dryer plug shouldn’t be powering any other plugs.
@@danlux4954 we got it separated. Put the outlets all on another circuit and get 21 MPH charge now.
Best (simplest) video I’ve seen so far on how to do this! Ty
Thanks so much
Hey Dad, just wanna say love your vids they are super helpful. Im in Middlesex (moved from Brooklyn 2 years ago) and i ordered the Model Y, est delivery is August (sheesh) but hopefully it comes with the 4680 battery and other new features like heated wipers. Thanks for the links for the exact items, I’ll be purchasing them all soon to be ready.
Watch my latest vid to get excited 😊
I like your flush mounted 240V EV wall charger. It looks neater than the external mounted box with a metallic pipe isolation externally connected to the box.
Thanks
That multimeter is like the one I've had since high School 1983. LOL. I have a fluke and four other Digital meters. But I still keep the Old faithful.
It may have been my dad’s! 🤷🏻♂️
Got mine installed. I expected the Tesla UMC plug to be difficult to insert and remove but it’s really easy. Hubbell was about 10 times the price of the others but I think it’s worth it. Finding the plate was difficult, be sure to confirm the hole size before buying. Also had to pay double to get the 14-15 for the UMC, Tesla really needs to get more stock and limit the number you can order to prevent scalping.
The 14-50 has gotten very popular so I’ve been recommending the 6-50 as a cheaper (and easier to get) option. ua-cam.com/video/XNOnVxI0tvk/v-deo.html
Great video, thanks! Not sure if I’d feel confident to do this install regardless since I have no experience or knowledge of electrical but at least I now know the job in which I’ll be paying someone to do. ☺️
Thanks but these days, I’m actually a fan of hard wired chargers instead of outlets. ua-cam.com/video/1BnK4a4aVpU/v-deo.html
I used NEMA 6-50. I had about 60’ between panel and receptacle.
Saved me a lot of money on copper.
I will have an upcoming video on this exact topic in January.
9:40 Get some wire shears. Compared to diagonal cutters, wire shears require _far_ less force to cut and don’t crush the end of the wire. (It’s noticeable even on much smaller wire.) They don’t cost much, so I highly recommend some.
Thanks
Thank you for this wonderful video and comments from electricians. Learned so so much.
My pleasure!
Great job on the video!! I definitely subscribed!!!
Thanks for subscribing! Welcome to the family!
Nice install. I have todo the same thing this fall, but the outlet will be 25’ from the panel - looking forward to crawling through the attic!
$6/foot for the wire now. Lucky for me, I only needed 6 feet and it was even cheaper 18 months ago when I bought it.
Run metal conduit maybe? My garage is detached and unfinished so I ran 3/4" conduit up and over to the far side of the garage. This was after I put in a 100 amp sub panel though (it was my main, put in 200amp main in my basement). Maybe you are talking about running above a room or something though.
CHRIS.... ALL I CAN SAY is U R 1 AWESOME... SUPER SMART DUDE...I WISH YOU WERE MY NEXT DOOR NEIGHBOR SO I COULD HIRE YOU. THANK YOU FOR SUCH A GREAT VIDEO...I REALLY LIKE HOW DETAILED U R & HOW SMOOTH U EXPLAIN EVERYTHING....PEACE TO U & UR FAMILY....STAY SAFE & PLEASE NEVER STOP MAKING THESE GREAT VIDEOS. KUDOS TO YOU ALWAYS ....CHEERS
If you were my next door neighbor, I’d help you for a beer. 👍🏻
@@handydadtv Thanks a Million Chris for your Kind Reply …I was very happy to Receive a Reply Back …So U know in Addition to Payment for your Services…Ur Beverages of Choice would All be on me in Addition to An Invitation to Dinner . Thanks again Friend & Keep up Ur Awesome Videos …Simple …Direct & Very Detailed. I know for Sure U R Well Appreciated by Not Only me but …Many on UTube …Peace & Cheers
You did a great job, top quality(hubbell) definitely worth the extra cash, 35 yr liscenced electrician in NYC thanks u
Thanks so much 😊
You install it like pro👏🏻
Thanks so much 😊
One more comment on grounding. 15:30 Have you noticed they put the ground screw right under where you tighten the wires to the outlet. That's a very small gap between the ground screw head and the X hot wire hardware. It's like they are tempting fate with a possible arc over. Paranoid as I am I drilled and tapped a new 5/32" hole up in a corner.
BTW, I just saw a video that the ground screw MUST be green to be up to code. I had to dig through a box of hardware to find one (It pays to be a pack rat.)
Thanks for the advice!
I really appreciate your recommendation of a quality outlet. The Hubbel now seems to be $98 which is more than you paid. I don’t need this til March so will keep an eye on it before purchase.
I don’t have a crystal ball, but I don’t think these things are getting cheaper.
NEMA 6-50 is a cheaper alternative and I’ll be doing a video on that in January. Be sure to subscribe.
Is that the right size hole you have in the description for faceplate? Thanks
Yes. amzn.to/2XWJJUx fits the Hubbell 14-50.
@@handydadtv I ordered Bryant one. Will it work on that one? Thanks
Yes. The Bryant is identical.
@@handydadtv Awesome! One more question. How many feet cable you bought? My breaker is similar with 200 Amps, but kill switch is on the bottom, yours on the top. I want to do similar what you did, to put nema socket close to the breaker. I appreciate your time answering my questions. Blessings to you and your family!
I only bought six feet of wire. Someone told me it’s a violation to put the outlet directly below the panel, but I didn’t verify that. Just FYI.
Best video I’ve seen I might just dot it my self while following code in my area
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
NEC requires a GFCI breaker for a NEMA 14-50 outlet, you are using a standard breaker so it does not meet code. You can use a standard breaker if you hard wire the charger but if someone inspects the wiring when you sell your house or there is a fire and they find this it will affect your insurance payout. This requirement is regardless of whether the charger has an inbuilt GFCI as the NEC requirement is for the outlet no matter what you plug into it.
Do I need a GFCI Circuit Breaker for EV Charging?
ua-cam.com/video/BixGQisysDc/v-deo.html
@@handydadtv That article is an excellent explanation of the reqirement. I find some NEC requirements annoying but as that shows the latest code allows you to hard wire the charger if it has an in-built GFI, but if you are installing an outlet such as a NEMA 14-50 outlet in a garage then it must be protected by a GFI breaker in your load center. I am told the thinking is that if someone unplugged the charger - say you sell your house and take your charger - then the outlet is unprotected in a wet place. Most chargers can be hard wired and do have an in-built GFI however most people have them plugged into an outlet as you can upgrade, replace or remove them yourself if you do. The down side as the article states is that instead of a $25 breaker you need to use a $120 breaker - not appreciated by most customers but if you want to meet code that is unfortunately what you need to do. Good videos and very helpful for people who want to do a good job that meets code and is safe. Thanks.
Two GFCI's on the same circuit (in the breaker and in the EVSE) causes lots ot unwanted trips, and is a PITA... Like lots of folks, I'll choose to live dangerously with just one GFCI and a plug in set up...
Thank U for ur educational video. Recently heard arcing sound coming from 14-50 outlet. During inspection found completely melted and separated from main plastic body . Ordered industrial strength outlet and I’ll be confident to tackle this.
Good move! I’ve heard the UMC plug has a heat sensor that should slow or stop charging before it starts a fire, but I feel better knowing I have a heavy duty outlet.
Also get a torque screwdriver. Specs are important here
@Jay that will appear in next week’s video 😉
That is usually caused by a loose connection, not the outlet. For stranded wire (Romex 8 guage and larger), wiggle the wire end as the lug is tightened. Otherwise, the connection could loosen.
@3:31- even MORE popular with stoves. ;) Hello from Canada.
Good to know! Hello Canada 👋🏻
Where did you buy the holster for the mobile connector? Thanks 🤙🏾
handydad.tv/umcc
the laugh when he realizes the plate doesn’t fit 😂😂 you made this look so easy
#unscripted
You cut the insulation on the black hot one when you stripped the cable covering going into the box. When tightening the outlet to the wires you didn’t torque it properly you needed to bend the outlet a few times and then retighten and repeat a couple of times in order for the wire strands to set into place just tightening them down initially doesn’t do the job.❤
Thanks. I covered these things in a subsequent video.
The 80s called and wants their meter back. 😉 great video, thanks for sharing.
Ironically, my fancy new digital meter fried doing this test! The retro one is still going strong.
At 15:18 the ground wire to the outlet is grounded to the mounting plate which is grounded to the electrical box. Or is that not good enough? Even the cover plate is grounded just by being attached to the mounting plate. It's almost impossible to NOT ground the box. You'd have to use plastic screws and insulating washers for it not to be grounded.
The box needs to stay grounded even if the outlet is removed.
Oh okay. That makes sense. @@handydadtv
GREAT video! Could you possibly add link to bottom of description for the exact Hubble plate? TY.
There is a link in the description.
Good video.. my electrical box and face plate did not come with screws.. Did you use one of the holes in electrical box as ground tap?
Boxes don’t come with screws whether metal or plastic. If you go with metal, you need to buy a green ground screw to bond the ground wire to the box.
The cover plate should come with screws.
Subscribed based on this video. Thank you
Thanks for subscribing! Welcome to the family!
Dude I don't have a dad. Hearing you say you're my cloud dad kinda made me tear up a lil ngl.
Merry Christmas, son!
Great video. Very detailed steps & easily explained. You have given me the inspiration to install it myself.
Quick question, is a permit required from township to install it ? Thanks
I guess it depends on where you live.
Great job man keep up the good work 😊
Thanks so much 😊
Thanks so much 😊
Nice that you used premium parts. (or not the cheapest). metal box, not plastic. etc.
Don’t skimp on EV charging equipment.
What a difference between level 1 and level 2 charging! Thanks for sharing.
Yes indeed!
Level-1 120 volts, level-2 240 volts
Great Vid. What happened if you don't connect the white wire into the bust bar panel?
That conductor on the outlet would be “open”, ie. not connected.
Although your EV charger probably doesn’t use the neutral conductor, technically it should be connected.
If you want to avoid connecting a third wire, consider the 6-50 outlet instead. ua-cam.com/video/XNOnVxI0tvk/v-deo.html
Good job just wanted to mention. It needs a GFCI breaker.
That’s debatable. ua-cam.com/video/BixGQisysDc/v-deo.html
Good job thank you for your instructions 👍
My pleasure
great video!! two questions please? is it important to have a metal wall box vs plastic? does it matter where you put the black/red wires on the breakers?
No, you can use plastic if you want. And the two hots aren’t polarized so it doesn’t matter which goes what side of the breaker.
15:25
I’m curious if I can I avoid grounding if I use a plastic electrical box?
Any benefit of using metal over plastic?
If you recommend metal, for ground did you use 3 copper wires and bind them together in the cap?
Everything else makes perfect sense in the video. Great tutorial!
No need to ground plastic. I used metal so I could screw it tightly to the stud. I bonded the ground wire to the box and the receptacle.
Great video man. Any reason why you chose the mobile charger over the wall connector?
My 2020 Model Y came with a UMC so I needed an outlet for it.
did you ever end up torquing the screws on the receptacle and on the breaker?
Answered here: ua-cam.com/video/1BnK4a4aVpU/v-deo.html
@@handydadtvThanks a lot for the quick response good sir. I hit up my fellow marine friend who was an electrician and he helped me torque mine down after my electrician didn’t. Everything else on the install checked out though. I was watching the electrician like a hawk and good thing I noticed he just used his allen wrench. I used the same torque screwdriver you recommended (amazon same day) and torqued everything down. Feeling a lot better now.
@DreBruh Don’t feel bad. Most electricians don’t torque. They just have enough experience to know how much to tighten.
I was going to install one and today I was driving and remembered that they have a nema for an electric dryer already in my room. I have an opening to the garage so I can run my cord. My question is Can I just swap the nema in place now for the other? Mine says “ Nema 10-30 then on the bottom it says 125-250. Can I use this and put the one you have in yours?
Thanks for the great video
Good question! If you have a Tesla, you can get a NEMA 10-30 adapter for your UMC. If not, yes you can replace the outlet to a 14-50 but you need to configure your car charging to be 80% of the breaker size. Assuming it’s a 30-amp breaker, charge at 24 amps max. If you use the Tesla adapter, it will do that automatically.
Hello. Thank you for the video. Quick question: what cable did you use? Could you provide a link for it? Thank you in advance!
It’s cheaper to buy locally. I just used the 6/3 wire as specified by Tesla.
what kind of circuit breaker you recommend? GFCI needed?
Watch this ua-cam.com/video/BixGQisysDc/v-deo.html
@@handydadtv Thank you...
Best DIY vid of the bunch!
Thanks so much 😊
Good video. My new construction home came prewired with a plastic receptacle box. I’ll just need to add the 14-50 plug myself. I’m guessing it doesn’t matter whether I use a plastic vs metal cover plate for my plastic receptacle box?
Sure you can use the plastic box. Was it pre-wired for you?
@@handydadtvyes it was pre wired.
Great video! My breaker box is clear cactus’s the house. What if it’s more than 1225 feet?
You need to increase wire size to maintain the same output. Google images for wire size charts. You’ll see what I mean.
Thank you!
Thank you, the step by step is very clear. How did you connect the copper wire in the metal box? Saw 3 different copper wires.
Time code?
It’s routed to a ground screw on the box and wire nutted together with the wire than runs to the receptacle.
Thank you very much. The video was very informative.
My pleasure
Excellent video! Thank you for posting this!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Great video. What if i use the splitter and extension on stove plug? I dont have space in my wall main switch for extra and prolly i will sell my house soon.
I wouldn’t. I suggest you look into tandem circuit breakers to free up space for a dedicated circuit.
Is there a reason why you are feeding the wire through the bottom of the box instead of the top since your panel is on the top?
The Hubbell needs wires from the bottom.
Very informative. I will be tackling this myself to prepare for my first EV.
Demand for the 14-50 receptacle is insane and prices are through the roof. There is a cheaper alternative that works just as well: ua-cam.com/video/XNOnVxI0tvk/v-deo.html
Great Video! You mentioned the ground has to be installed up for Tesla. Is the true? I wanted to flip my outlet, but now I’m not sure if I should do this.
Get the charger and plug to be sure.
THanks for your video. very detailed procedure for the installation. I have one question for your help, unlike your panel, for my load center, i found that ground and neutral are connected together, so in that case, how shall i connect the white wire and ground wire ?
Just connect them the same way as all the others.
Thanks excellent job and very handy !!!!!
Thanks 😊
Very helpful vid, Thanks!!! Could you please let me know the device box you used for Hubbell HBL9450A? I am having a hard time to find a compatible box. Thanks a lot!
Got it... Hubbell 685, Thanks.
amzn.to/3ooY8C6
Just added to the video description.
What is the exact definition when you buy this wire? Thanks
It’s called Romex, but it’s not allowed everywhere. Go to a local hardware store and ask what kind of wire you need to use in your area.
I am posting this to share my experience with home charging my Model S using the mobile charger plugged into a NEMA 14-50 outlet. Two years ago I had an electrical service company install the outlet. They ran about 20 ft. of #8 in conduit to a surface mounted box. They installed a Pass & Seymour outlet, which by all accounts is supposed to work fine for EV charging.
Then a few months ago I dropped the charging current down from 40A to 30A because in my opinion the outlet was getting way too warm, even hot let's say. Even the conduit was quite warm.
Then recently I started researching this topic further and found that there's a big difference in design, materials, build quality, duty cycle specification, etc. between outlet manufacturers. I decided to replace the outlet with a Hubbell 9450A NEMA 14-50, which costs like six times more than the one I had installed.
As I took out the old outlet I noticed a couple of things:
1) The wires were not tightened down sufficiently in my opinion.
2) The design of the old outlet used the typical set screw arrangement where the screw end itself contacts the wire.
Thus I found that the strands of the wire were crushed where the set screw contacted them. I also noticed that this type of design prevents all the strands of the wire from making full contact inside for at least 1/2 of the wire's circumference.
So I cut off the damaged parts and re-stripped the wire very carefully before installing the new outlet. Worth noting that the Hubbell has the hex set screw tightening the wire against all copper pieces inside without the screw itself contacting the wire. Almost all the wire strands are therefore making maximum contact with more surface area for each blade. A superior design that minimizes resistance at the connection.
I'm charging at the full 40A now and the outlet, the box and the conduit aren't warm at all. The mobile charger plug is not that warm to the touch. Just normal warmth as I judge it.
Thanks for sharing! I personally charge daily at 15 amps which is plenty to replenish my commute overnight. I only push it if I have limited time.
Nice video, can you let me know where you got the cable connector clamp, you used for the 3/4 inch hole in the box and circuit board ?
Home Depot most likely.
@@handydadtv I tried HD, but they only have with a lug nut, not a push-in type connector. Let me know if you have an amazon link.
Perhaps it was Lowe’s. I didn’t buy it online.
But others have disagreed with my approach saying the clamp needs to be outside of the panel box. So they recommended using one with a lug nut and clamping it to the wire before passing it into the panel from below. Then screw on the lug nut from inside.
Great Video. Thank you so much for your work.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻