Didnt some of the jbl amplifiers have the feature where it would sense input signal from rca or high level inputs and power on the amp for some people intergrating the amp with their factory stereo without remote turn on.
Possibly some did. this one did not though. It wouldn't act like that either. It would come on and stay on for a while. there would be a timed delay. This amp certainly had issues. It did not even work.
if you ever get your hands on a jbl gto1001ez Id love to see what it puts out. meade dynod the smaller version and it put out well over rated rms power but cant find anything on the "1450 watt" one i have. Hooked up to a mmats procast 15 and it seems to be putting out some damn good power.
123devinzz1 I have the Jbl GTO-5ez, i'd also love to see that beast reviewed. i accidentally cooked a 700w rms Ground Zero subwoofer on it WITH A RATED 1.5OHM LOAD! I even ran 1500w rms @ 1.14 ohm on it for half an hour, and guess what happened!? the fuseholder holding the 60A fuse under my bonnet melted!. No damage to the amplifier!. Yes i know the GTO-5ez is a 90A rated amp, but during early set-up i accidentally fried my two front speakers, frying the front channels of the amp in the process. So I'm sending the amplifier in for repair before i put a new system in my car. Definitely gonna hold on to this amp for a bit longer.
OlafurArons you saying your getting 1500 watts off the 500watt rated sub channel on a 5 channel amp?? I have the 1001 and its a beast. im after blowing a mmats procast 15 with it. Seen steve meades dyno of the 500 and it made 800watts so im assuming this one being 2 of those put together will do 1500-1600 clean.
Well, i don't know about 1500-1600 clean, but it has the same bass channel, so, at least 700 clean wouldn't surprise me. I've heard that D-Class amplifiers, being able to run under their specified impedence isn't that uncommon, but 1500w rms@1.14ohm. i still don't know how to feel about it. The amplifier is rated at 4x50w rms & 1x300w rms @4 ohm/ 4x75w rms & 1x500w rms @2 ohm.
it has 3x30a fuses, so 90x14.4 (amperes times the voltage of the car's electrical system during optimal conditions) = 1296w = amplifier's maximum wattage draw, so it'll never, under any circumstances produce more than that number. But since it's a D-Class, it'll be losing less than 10% of that power to heat, so it *should* be able to give out a maximum of about 1200w at 10% THD at the highest gain it'll go without distortion/clipping all over the place.
I have the Jbl GTO 751ez and it rated @750 iknow it can do more than that it has 2x25a fuses Steve Meade done a test on the Jbl GTO501ez it's rated at 500wrms and it was tested at 717wrms on the dyno
The microprocessor must be damaged? Surge? Static charge? Hooked up backwards at some point? You know how it works, a small electrical signal is sent to the main chip, that says "hey we are supposed to turn on!" But if there's a short, or fault, that signal may not exist but the chip thinks it heard it, so it completes the circuit? Make sense? This is my humble interpretation...
Yeah. Not having a remote wire hooked up will just make the amp not turn on. That's all its for is to relay a 12v signal from the head unit telling the amp when to turn on and off. Not having it connected is the same as simply having the headunit turned off. Impossible to cause damage.
Trippy
Didnt some of the jbl amplifiers have the feature where it would sense input signal from rca or high level inputs and power on the amp for some people intergrating the amp with their factory stereo without remote turn on.
Possibly some did. this one did not though. It wouldn't act like that either. It would come on and stay on for a while. there would be a timed delay. This amp certainly had issues. It did not even work.
JBL Ghost Amp Series
if you ever get your hands on a jbl gto1001ez Id love to see what it puts out. meade dynod the smaller version and it put out well over rated rms power but cant find anything on the "1450 watt" one i have. Hooked up to a mmats procast 15 and it seems to be putting out some damn good power.
123devinzz1 I have the Jbl GTO-5ez, i'd also love to see that beast reviewed. i accidentally cooked a 700w rms Ground Zero subwoofer on it WITH A RATED 1.5OHM LOAD!
I even ran 1500w rms @ 1.14 ohm on it for half an hour, and guess what happened!? the fuseholder holding the 60A fuse under my bonnet melted!. No damage to the amplifier!.
Yes i know the GTO-5ez is a 90A rated amp, but during early set-up i accidentally fried my two front speakers, frying the front channels of the amp in the process. So I'm sending the amplifier in for repair before i put a new system in my car. Definitely gonna hold on to this amp for a bit longer.
OlafurArons you saying your getting 1500 watts off the 500watt rated sub channel on a 5 channel amp?? I have the 1001 and its a beast. im after blowing a mmats procast 15 with it. Seen steve meades dyno of the 500 and it made 800watts so im assuming this one being 2 of those put together will do 1500-1600 clean.
Well, i don't know about 1500-1600 clean, but it has the same bass channel, so, at least 700 clean wouldn't surprise me. I've heard that D-Class amplifiers, being able to run under their specified impedence isn't that uncommon, but 1500w rms@1.14ohm. i still don't know how to feel about it.
The amplifier is rated at 4x50w rms & 1x300w rms @4 ohm/ 4x75w rms & 1x500w rms @2 ohm.
it has 3x30a fuses, so 90x14.4 (amperes times the voltage of the car's electrical system during optimal conditions) = 1296w = amplifier's maximum wattage draw, so it'll never, under any circumstances produce more than that number. But since it's a D-Class, it'll be losing less than 10% of that power to heat, so it *should* be able to give out a maximum of about 1200w at 10% THD at the highest gain it'll go without distortion/clipping all over the place.
I have the Jbl GTO 751ez and it rated @750 iknow it can do more than that it has 2x25a fuses Steve Meade done a test on the Jbl GTO501ez it's rated at 500wrms and it was tested at 717wrms on the dyno
seems like a short to power on the circuit board...
The microprocessor must be damaged? Surge? Static charge? Hooked up backwards at some point?
You know how it works, a small electrical signal is sent to the main chip, that says "hey we are supposed to turn on!" But if there's a short, or fault, that signal may not exist but the chip thinks it heard it, so it completes the circuit? Make sense? This is my humble interpretation...
Can anybody tell me what red light means on a car audio amp
I got a coral amp doing this...
Did you fix it????
Haha, nope, didnt think it was worth it, its a budget amp.
probably been damaged by not having the remote wire in it.
That won't damage an amplifier.
yeah? heh
Yeah. Not having a remote wire hooked up will just make the amp not turn on. That's all its for is to relay a 12v signal from the head unit telling the amp when to turn on and off. Not having it connected is the same as simply having the headunit turned off. Impossible to cause damage.
Oh ritght! :)