Evaporust Vs. Vinegar - At 10X The Cost Does It Do 10X The Job?
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- Опубліковано 21 лис 2021
- We decided to treat the inside of rusty tank of our Barnfind 61 Sportster with a commercial rust treatment instead of our usual white vinegar/salt mixture. We were a little disappointed by the results, so we decided to test the new method vs old to see which was best. Here's what we found.
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I used Metal Rescue with excellent results on my KZ. Two things about using these kinds of rust dissolvers: 1) The tank must be oil free, use lots of hot, soapy water, rinse thoroughly (think car wash wand) and then use plenty of alcohol to dry it, and 2) The rust dissolver works best above 80F. I didn't use any agitators (nuts, bolts, vibration, etc) but I left the tank out in the hot AZ sun and sloshed it around periodically for a couple of days and the entire interior of my tank was pristine. Even the cap looked brand new.
I use muriatic acid. A few decades ago I soaked almost a whole VW bug in muriatic acid. It got rid of ALL the rust. I soak nuts and bolts and small parts in it, I have used it to remove rust from motorcycle tanks, very hard to beat. The only issue is not to leave it in a tank for too long, after it destroys the rust, it will continue eating through the metal.
I use it, also. Works great, but you have to monitor the time the part is in there.
Muriatic acid will leave chlorine ions on the surface of the metal, which will make it rust allot faster, so you have to wash, neutralize in an alkaline solution, was again and seal the surface pretty much immediately after taking it out of muriatic acid.
@@ghffrsfygdhfjkjiysdz Yes! Neutralize it or you will have trouble.
@@ghffrsfygdhfjkjiysdz That's true if you really want to do it right. Most of the time I just rinse the part really good and coat it with WD-40.
@@ghffrsfygdhfjkjiysdz in theory the best thing would be to use muriatic to break up almost all of the rust, rinse and scrub with baking soda to abrade any residual rust, clean up pitting, and neutralize, then some nice hot water and seal. In practice it's usually whatever you have handy and however you can get to it. A steel brush, brake cleaner, canned rust converter and some tractor paint is sometimes all you can do. Honey coat is another good option for stuff you can't reach I've heard, but I like the idea of converter and some heavy duty paint. The stuff I did the floors of my a-body in was great, some generic brush on tractor paint that settled out real flat and left a rubbery texture to it. Held up great to abuse when we had to hammer some of the trans tunnel for a modern trans to fit in and was walked on plenty without any real scratches.
Tony, I've used various methods of rust removal to restore cars and have found EvapoRust perfect for certain tasks. Since I'm mostly into original restorations where the proper bolt heading marking is necessary. I use EvapoRust rust in my Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner with the heat on. It works much better with heat and removes rust, light grease an over spray leaving the caduim finish untouched. I believe the container of EvapoRust states to remove scale rust before use which means it's not going to clean your fuel tank without the boots sloshing around. Vinegar is cheap and another great rust remover. Thanks for the video.
How did you deal with flash rust? Did you just throw gas in the tank right away or coat the inside?
@@funkybassguy68 After EvapoRust process, I cleaned with tap water and placed before a box fan for drying inside my garage. I had little to no problem with flash rust.
I do the same thing. Box fan drying and usually little to no problem
8 month old comment but does evaporust really leave cadmium in place, everything I’ve read (I couldn’t find much) says it removes the coating - I thought cadmium was an oxide so would be removed from sockets - I’ve got some 1945 snap on sockets I’m looking to keep as original as possible
@@bradleypease2492 I've put plated bolts and nuts into EvapoRust, and what plating was still on the hardware did not come off.
If you're going to use vinegar (an acid) on any metal, follow it with a flush of baking soda. Add baking soda to boiling water, then cool. The undissolved soda will fall to the bottom. Use only the clear solution.
Can I ask why?
@@Guitarsnspraycans Baking soda neutralizes acid, stopping that process. By boiling and cooling, any undissolved solids fall out of solution. You wouldn't want it in your fuel system. It only takes a few minutes.
Do not waist your time with baking soda, ammonia is a base and will nuke battery acid or vinegar. No powder mess.
@@tomg6284 no offense, but get your money back on your chemistry set.
Baking soda is the number one neutralizer for sulfuric acid. Besides being non toxic (ammonia is poison), it's many times more potent, and will nuetralize acid down into the smallest rust recesses.
Also, ammonia will harm most unpainted surfaces found under the hood.
The MSDS on baking soda basically says it's harmless.
Vinegar is a weak acid, and a 5% concentrate at that (if purchased from 'the store'). I've de-rusted MANY auto parts with heated vinegar and a simple rinsing afterward seems to be sufficient. I've painted and powdercoated those parts with just a simple rinse and no additional prep (meaning, no sandblasting nor etching). I've had zero noticeable degradation in my coatings. Sometimes there's more than 1 'good' way to accomplish a goal.
I used EvapoRust on an old XS-650 tank - no flaked rust, but a lot on the surface .... worked like a charm... inside of tank looks new
I just started using Evaporust and I love it. I use it for small parts. Bolts, nuts, brackets etc.
I will degrease beforehand with Dawn dish soap and a wire brush. If there's any paint I will sand that off also. I let parts soak for about 12 hours then wire brush to help it along. Then soak for another 12 hours. Wire brush again then rinse with water. Always turns out perfect. Like brand new!
Molasses and water works amazing for fuel tanks! One part molasses to 9 parts water. Let it sit for a week. The inside of the tank will look brand new.
I've used Evaporust with pretty good results. Most of the time I let the parts soak for DAYS, like a week, and the results have been satisfactory. I've never had good results with just soaking overnight.
The biggest upside I've found to EvapORust is that when (not if) I forget a part in it for a week, the only thing I have to deal with is a bit of blackening. I've done the same with vinegar and come back to a horrible, disgusting mess that was worse than when I started. It also is better for nuts and bolts since it won't eat away the peaks of the threads... but for big chunks, vinegar works great (just don't forget about them! lol) As with all rust removal methods, every solution doesn't work for every situation, so it's good to have a backup.
What is that black finish? I left some drive axle bolts in EvapoRust and they turned from grey (a zinc coating I think, ZNS3) to black.
I've had a good experience with Evapo-Rust on parts used in old car restoration. According to the label, it "chelates" the rust. It doesn't remove or damage metal, unlike acid-based materials. It washes off well with soapy water. Evapo-Rust is fairly slow, however. It works fantastic in an ultrasonic cleaner with a bit of heat. Not sure, but my understanding is that it is molasses based. The same company also make a rust preventative coating that works really well. No, I don't get paid by them. I'm no expert, just trying to help someone else with my experience.
Nice job Uncle Tony. Now, Project Farm (I really enjoy his channel) will do a test featuring 20 different rust removal methods, and he will show microscopic comparisons of each and every test. I say remove the tank, sand blast the inside as much as you can and coat it with a sealer several times. You can get that petcock out...one way or the other. It may involve a torch but, as you know, fill the tank with water first to make sure all gas fumes are gone..
Great work, Tony. I did the fuel tank on my 75 valiant with electrolysis using a lye solution. It was total rust and jellied garbage. That was in 2012, it's been my daily driver ever since
I can’t believe you’re doing this demo on the hood of a car !!
We have this special method of removing rust here in Milwaukee.... just drive your car for one winter and the rust will just disappear along with the body panel. Pro tip, make sure to drive over a few of our bathtub sized potholes to add some violent shaking for maximum effectiveness.
Tony, my experience with a fuel tank is to put about a cup full of small gravel. Shake it around, turning the tank to get as much of the loose rust off. Shake out the gravel, rinse with water, then treat it. It seems to work a lot faster because it doesn't have as much rust to penetrate. Love your dedication to educate!
Attach it to a paint shaker with your rocks in it ?
@@cammontreuil7509 no sir. Just shake it around for a few minutes, maybe shake it around several different times. Just to get the large rust flakes broken up. Gets it closer to the inside surface. Then treat it the way you are doing it.
@@catbird1759 I'm sorta making a joke. But you have a good idea.
An old school machinist had a rock tumbler he would clean parts in it. He used rocks.
Yeah, using lead bb's with mineral spirits is what i heard.
Marbles work and you can get them out easier
Used electrolysis on my 68 Dodge D200's tank. Looked at all the options and went that way because it's cheap. Old school battery charger, washing soda, a steel rod and water. Process is slow! Pulled the rod a couple times a day and cleaned it, for I don't know how many days.
Wasn't sure if it really worked until I did an acid rinse with a bit of muriatic. That shined it up, no rust inside.
Since then I've done other things, after their cleaned they're not real shiny but the rust is gone.
Actually thought about doing a video but there's a million of the already.
yup its slow but it'll get it ALL eventually.
I'd suggest using several graphite rods. They last much longer than anything else. I usually put one in each corner of the tank.
Nice job doing a simple comparison. Exactly what I was looking for.
I have not had good success with evaporust when it’s cold. If it’s warmer it works better for me.
@UCSTnMLG_TY5v1rQ2vc1Z-KQ a@@q-
I Highly recommend the evaporust. I used it on the 81 kz750 my dad handed down to me. I also used ball bearings and sloshed around ..
I've had really good luck with Evaporust on a nasty set of Vortec heads. You can see the results on my channel if you want, the Vortec head video. I bought a 5 gallon bucket and used a tub and soaked the heads for a week. I've also had good luck with POR-15 rust remover. But, they are both expensive. I will try the vinegar and salt on my next project. I love your content especially the attitude of doing what the average guy can afford. Thanks!
The problem with vinegar is that its high acidity will quickly cause it to rust again after rinsing. Even if you neutralise it with a basic solution afterwards, surface rust will reappear within days if not hours. Evaoprust inhibits reformation of rust even on unprotected raw metal for several weeks and doesnt require neutralising. Evaopust is also highly reusable , just filter it and pour back into the bottle for reuse.
Your crew has some great comments, covers the subject from top to bottom. I use Evaporust on old rusty micrometers and such. One nice thing about Harley Davidson gas tanks is the wall thickness is pretty beefy. I’ve cleaned many a Japanese gas tank and by the time the rust is gone you end up with a lawn sprinkler. ps: keep going and the petcock will come out eventually.
Maybe spray Kroil or whatever inside the tank and let it work into the tap's threads from the inside?
Acetone works miracles first to remove varnished gas then hit it with vinegar for the rust.
This is spot on. You have to remove the varnish gas coating first.
Yep. Came here to say this.
If you don't get rid of the varnished up crud, the rust ain't going anywhere.
After using vinegar on a tank once I am wary of it, it is an acid and will eat into the healthy steel along with the rust. I would never let it soak for more than 2 hrs. Evaporust on the other hand is not an acid, it chelates, and I much prefer it to vinegar. It is much easier to work with imo, the problem with vinegar is as soon as you drain it out, the tank will begin to flash rust almost immediately. You have to neutralize the acid by pouring water + baking soda into the tank. Reintroduction of water after rust removal will result in more flash rust in my experience, I strictly rinse with acetone, never water. There is no flash rust after draining evaporust, you can just rinse it out with acetone and it will remain rust free as long as you keep it dry, i don't even have to coat with oil. And yes evaporust will take off paint, gotta be very careful not to spill. In summary evaporust is worth it for the peace of mind that I know it cannot damage the healthy metal.
My experiences with Evaporust is that 4-5 days in the tank is required for desirable results.On the other hand, Electrolysis (with washing soda added to the water) provides the best results for gas tanks. Thanks for the vid!
As some have suggested, I suspect there must be something coating the inside of the gas tank and stopping it from working. I’ve been extremely happy, and downright amazed with the results from Evaporust, completely removing rust on old suspension parts, and exposing all sorts of original paint daubs that you never would have guessed were there. Just do a good degreasing first and stay away from wire brushes or aggressive scraping. Also, it doesn’t work on clear zink plated parts, but is excellent on the black phosphate type coating on things like bumper bracket to frame bolts.
Try a molasses soak. Does all the work for you, but takes time.
I used vinegar on my rusty tank for three days. After that I washed out with water and baking soda to neutralize the vinegar. Next was a handfull of nuts and a full can of WD-40 just to make sure and shook it up. The last rinse was with fresh premium fuel. I was pleased!
I have used Evaporust to remove rust and have good results soaking for a day or Two. Evaporust is water soluble, so you can rinse off the parts and blow dry with compressed air with good results
I have not tried Vinegar and salt but will try. I liked the results you got with this cheap alternative.
Seeing this video just reminded me to take out the thing I have IN Evaporust in the garage that I forgot about!
Thanks again UT!
Nice comparison there Uncle Farm. The thing about Evaporust is that you can keep reusing it. I hope you didn't get rusty droplets all over the hood of the junkyard jet. I like the " scientific" videos.
That's a heck of a work bench ! The hood of the car ! LOL!!!!!
You can make a simple vibrator from a 1/4 sheet sander and use velcro to attach to gas tank or container holding the solution. Cheaper than an ultrasonic bath.
Yes I like vinegar solutions, usually takes some time waiting on it.
I have had good luck with muriatic acid and water solution cleaning gas tanks. Flush out with baking soda and water. Dry well before flash rust forms and spray with WD-40 or something to coat the metal until you get gas back in the tank.
Great idea! lol. I gotta not convert everything to cordless.
Uncle Tony doesn't use a vibrator
@@DumPhuc
Guess you have not ridden an old Harley and why women did not mind riding the *itch pad.
I've always used molasses and water for rust removal. That stuff will make the soles of your shoes melt over time
I'm a fan of molasses. I have a tote full of the mixture (10-1) that I've used for years. Doesn't wear out. Have used it to remove rust on all sorts of misc parts & pieces. The down side is it is slow which creates another problem, you can forget a part is in there. I have destroyed a few things as it will eventually eat all the metal.
You are a clever guy. Right up your air compressor to blast the inside of the tank with walnut shells or fine grit. Then seal.
My experience with evaporust is if it gets mixed with anything like grease it does not seem to work well, so I am quessing that there may have been a small residue of gas in the tank.
Uncle Tony! You made that icon gorgeous, man. Nice work!
Tony here is a great rust neutralizer . Its made by Loctite under the name "Loctite® Naval Jelly® Rust Dissolv"
It's hard to find but yeah it's great
That’s old school and it works.
I used Evaporust on a lot of my old rusty FIAT parts and it was magical. Took no longer than 12 hours for the worst rust to be down to bare metal. It will/did remove paint in the soak. Maybe not if it were briefly splashed on it. I can’t explain why your tank didn’t come out well. I’ve even used it on heavily rusted cast iron, and cannot complain. It will lose its effectiveness over time. I keep straining it through a large pad of scotchbrite followed by an industrial paper towel to keep the chunks out.
I've used both of these (although I didn't put salt in the vinegar). In my experience both method work equally well, the evaporust is just faster.
Acidic solutions like vinegar and citric acid both need to be neutralised unless you want the rust reappearing.
Love your channel back in the day we where a slant 6 family. My first car was a dart. I rebuild it myself, I was 17.
I use white vinegar all the time. For the price, still can't be beat.
the company that makes POR15 makes an awesome tank sealer, I've used it and can tell you after 7 years it's still holding up with ZERO problems.
I've use the POR15 tank sealer on a 1945 Farmall A gas tank and it worked great. The problem is you need to remove the petcock.
Honestly I’ve heard too many stories of these tank “sealers” breaking down over time. Unless the tank is leaking I would only use them as a last resort. Best to remove the rust and use a fogging oil to keep the rust from flashing back.
I just sealed the auxiliary tank on my 69 f250 with por15 sealer. It put a rock hard, smooth coating over the entire surface. Looks really good.
@@supersportimpalass Damn ethanol will eat sealer from the tank
Tank sealers will breakdown and clog the whole thing after some time. Better to braze the holes or tin it.
Hi uncle tony I had very good results with vinegar on parts for my montecarlo good video
There’s a pretty good projectfarm video on this subject, where he tries a few more products. Personally I’ve had pretty good luck with evaporust.
Problem is, I don't think the tank is just rust. It's got jelled up gas as well and evaporust is not going to be able to get to the rust because the rust is underneath the gas residue.
actually I've had really good results with "Pickling Vinegar" it has 7% acid and works very good rather than blowing money on expensive EVAPO RUST
@@Canadiancarguy1987 bang for the buck acetone and vinegar works. Better than paying local radiator/gas tank shops 160 bucks to “boil” it.
@@tarstarkusz I’ve used acetone and I try to catch as much of it as possible and even though it will be soiled I can use it on multiple gas tanks.
@@abeld.4008 well if you get a chance check out my Pickling Vinegar rust removal on here I got a play list for it I mean check it out see what you think I think it works pretty good for only 4 bucks a jug
Sodium chloride + acetic acid = sodium acetate + hydrochloric acid. It's the hydrochloric acid that dissolves the rust.
Tony
Use a piece of 8ga wire
Cut to length needed and strip insulation off the lower end and pull the strands out to form a brush
After feeding into the tank you can work it back and forth to knock loose scale off and the wire is stiff enough to somewhat bend and hold to the form you want or need to reach different spots
Love evaporust the best rust removing agent I have found.
I have had great results with a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and lemon juice for dissolving rust. It does have a shelf life though so I typically make a new batch every time I need it. Follow it up with a mild baking soda and water rinse to neutralize the acidic properties followed up with plain water to get all of baking soda out for good. Do a final wash with phosphoric acid and a water wash after that to clear out all of acid (baking soda not necessary) and you end up with a rust proof coating of iron phosphate. It is VERY thin on the surface of the metal but it lasts many years. A fuel tank sealer like POR-15 applied as an end all, sealed for good, is the icing on the cake. You have sealed a rust resistant coating. I have a 1971 Honda CT70 that still has the original tank thanks to that process.
in the uk we have a product called Hammerite Kurust and omg its amazing. rust will turn to paintable metal in a few hours and stable surface in 15mins
The success of Evaporust is directly related to the quality of the metal it is being used on, with the actual amount of IRON in the material being an important factor.
As for the sticky spots, you are supposed to rinse things with water when you are done, meaning also the sticky parts will wipe off with water. Sounds counterintuitive, but that is how it works. Just dry the stuff after. Also, You can REUSE the evaporust until it doesn't work right anymore. Keep a seperate jug and poor the used stuff in, reuse it some other time, add a dash of new water to it. I have found it works fine until it is so black you can't see in it anymore at all and you have diluted it by about 20% to keep it from getting thicker. At that time, performance drops off enough to throw it out.
Sheet metal? Not really that great, most sheet metal is not pure iron because it would be brittle. Depending on the type of steel alloy though, it can be effective, all you can do is try. i put some on some surface rust spots in the trunk of my Monaco Police(in the little grooves in the trunk floor, nothing scaly) and a day later i soaked it up with a rag, dunked a clean one in water, wiped the grooves out and they were shiny like new. Dried, primed, painted. I have also had it not work well enough on other areas or projects to consider it a success, but I just wiped it off and nothing lost but a couple dollars of stuff for the attempt.
Old metal tools, frame brackets, etc? HELL YEAH, the stuff is like some kind of alien juice brought back from the future. I dropped all kinds of hand tools into it from the 60's and 70's and they came out perfect. What really surprised me though, was some seriously old iron tools I did. The best example was a 1920's era grinding wheel dressing tool(the little spur on a handle looking jobber) That was just solid rust. Not flaking off type, but just solid rust, enough you couldn't really tell what the raised letter branding on the handle was anymore, but at the same time, the type of rust you get on things that have been handled... you know, sort of "buffed" rust on iron, smooth to the touch yet completely rusted if that makes sense.
I dumped that thing in a tote for two days, came back, brushed it with a soft brush and rinsed it in water.
Not kidding, the thing was unrecognizable. It had SILVER PAINT on it. There was absolutely NO INDICATION that this tool was ever painted much less still had some. When I put it into the stuff. My jaw dropped.
I rinse the stuff with water as the directions state, blow it off with air, then hose it down with a squirt bottle of WD40 and lay it on a rag to "dry". The grinder dressing tool has kept it's new lease on life so far for a year this way in my tool box.
I also did an authentic Swiss knife I got at the flea market for a dime. It was RUST. No way to open it, no way to even see what all blades etc were in it, but it did have the little logo on it so I went for it. Soaked that one for a week, brushing once a day. Got to the point I could wiggle the blades, and the rust was pretty well gone from the outer surface though it was obviously pitted in areas. Dunked the thing in a pan with some fancy oil from an industrial machine at work(the $16 a gallon kind) for 2 days, then hosed it with WD40 to rinse it, got the blades to at least pull open. Back into evaporust to clear them off better and get into the grooves. After another two days, and some more lube, I got the two big blades to work(one is this wicked "Eagles claw" hook type blade) the rest woouldn't open fully, but one of the spring tabs was bent so I gave up on the bottle opener parts. Knife is ugly, but I haven't tried a metal polish wheel on it yet, but after a 5 minute dress the hook blade is sharp AF.
So anyway, I am a believer in the stuff. But I think it has it's uses, and sheet metal is pretty hit and miss for it. Just don;t forget you can REUSE IT! Save the stuff for a second and third project! Rinse with water(and WD40!)
You know your stuff man. But i got question. About cleaning the coolant system from rust. I already used coolant flush product, but it states it removes gunk, grease and dirt , NOT RUST. Some old school mechanics told me to use 50/50 water/vinegar , but i'm afraid of the vinegar to make holes in radiators and such. Do you think EVAPORUST will work as coolant system rust remover? PS: I'm talking about all aluminium engine.👍
@@petar443 Wow, I had never thought of that. I honestly don't know, but I don't think it would take oxidation off of aluminum very well. it is more for iron and steel type of materials. Most people I have seen with really dirty coolant will run a flush more then once though, flush, rinse, flush, rinse, etc. Don't forget the heater! You need to turn the car heat on to get the heater core flushed too. If you live in a warm area you can just run regular plain water to get the flush product out in between. There are videos about it, some of them get some really gunky engines cleaned out nice.
Good luck! if you find something that works great, make sure to share!
Vinegar can be reused as well. I have done it many times and for the cost will continue to use it as my go to rust remover
@@todddenio3200 True but vinegar seems to have less magic in it before it is consumed... although I have only used it where there was some calcium buildup with the rust... maybe the calcium reaction uses the acetic acid faster than straight rust.
@@petar443 The problem I have with vinegar is it eats the metal. Yes no a lot. But it etches the metal created many many many many more points for rust to form. Evaporust wont. For your aluminum I would assume you are going to run a rust preventative/lubricant or coolant after so long term rusting wont be a problem. Personally I would run the car with 50 50 vinegar... let it idle and heat up then let it sit and repeat. It will take a day at least. Then rinse it would really well. If you can remove a thermostat housing or something else you can check your results.
UTG results were not typical. I dont know how long he let it set or how warm the shop is but I have found evaporust to work very well and pretty quickly. I also used similar products from Lloyds and POR15 also has a prep. But that POR15 rust remover etched the crap out of the parts when I forgot about them for a few days.
It's so funny first thing I was thinking was project Farm, subscribed to him, good awhile ago. Keep up the work *UTG* and the "Mighty jet crew"
good info Tony. I got something out of that. I really like my new UTG t shirt by the way.
After the tank is cleaned mix a little atf with the gas. It's a rust inhibitor and doesn't seem to foul the plugs if used in moderation. Works on our antique tractors years after a muriatic acid cleaning without a coating
WoW...the bike looks great!
The biggest problem I have with both methods is that you have to have enough of the stuff to submerge the parts for it to work and it's just not all that practical to do that. Probably 10 years ago I bought a 5 gallon bucket of Evaporust and I've been using the same bucket of it ever since. It's turning out to be a lifetime supply since even 5 gallons isn't all that useful. It does do what it says it does (won't harm anything, which vinegar eventually will), but it does take its sweet time and is cumbersome.
As far as the residue, Evaporust is water soluble so that residue just needs washed off in the sink. With a gas tank, I'd flush plenty of water through it (regardless of either vinegar or Evaporust) and then purge it with a few pints of isopropyl alcohol to push the water out and then put it somewhere warm for a bit. Should be fine.
I've been running some rust remover/converter tests of my own and they all seem to have the same basic problem. They're all very expensive and require submersion. I've been meaning to experiment with the gels as I think those are probably a better way to go for most things.
Excellent post.
@@fireballxl-5748 Thanks!
The instructions of Evaporust suggest soaking rags/paper towels, and wrapping larger parts with them. Might want to give that a shot.
Navel jelly works pretty decent, but it doesn't penetrate well like something being submerged.
@@MitchellSmith “Navel jelly?” Pretty sure that should stay in the bedroom.
Rust bugs have been the bane of a metal worker's life for centuries, and dozens...probably thousands... of methods for removal have been tried. Thanks for the side-by-side comparo. I've wondered about Evaporust, but never seriously enough to step up to the cost. My sense is that it's probably perfect for some tasks, but for me it's too expensive to try when vinegar/salt work so well. There are various acidic strengths of vinegar; the highest I'm aware of is 12%, and that works really well. You can find it in farm supply shops. It's sold as a natural weedkiller. If you're wondering about the strength of the vinegar, check the label. In my local grocery store I've seen from 3% to 6%. Varying the amount of salt can affect how well it works as a rust removal mechanism.
take a shot every time Tony says evaporust! it's 6pm and I'm hammered ass drunk!
I used a POR15 kit for motorcycle tanks on two different bikes several years ago. Both bikes are still going with no problems. It is expensive but comes with metal prep, cleaner and sealer that cures hard like an epoxy. I tried Kreme once and had nothing but problems.
First off, I love your channel, always great content. I'm a subscriber for life. This is a great topic because its something we all run into sooner or later. Okay, so on with the show...
Evap-O-Rust will not clean the rust off of metal that has a layer of VARNISH on it. The varnish left by the old slowly evaporating gasoline is what was preventing the Evap-O-Rust from doing it's "Thang" lol
You have to clean the varnish out with something strong enough to get it all off and that's near impossible with that type of varnish and the pitted surface inside a rusted tank. A radiator shop has the dip tank with the chemical to do that job, but that's the end of the paint job too unfortunately.
The tank must be removed from the bike, unless you bought enough Evap-O-Rust to fill the tank all the way to the top. If you get the tank off the bike you could get away with just the one gallon by leaving the tank on one side for a day and then on the other side for another day.
In the end, your "Homeopathic" concoction of white vinegar and a pinch of salt is probably going to work better although it may also remove some virgin metal once it gets through the layers of rust, depending on how long its left in there. But you already knew that part.
So glad I saw this, I almost bought evapo but decided tonsee if anyone has compared the two.
Thank you!
I cut a plastic 55 gal drum open long ways and put long parts in a 25% vinegar/water mix. Soak for 7 to 10 days comes out like new metal with a little scotch brite rub. I did a nut and bolt restoration and all the rusty parts that fit in a 55 gal drum got a vinegar bath prior to repaint. No rust left behind with vinegar and no sticky film. I didnt even use salt.
2:20 Uncle Tony's garage. After you put. Vinager in the tank. buy a aquarium air bubbler and hose for ten bucks to make it move around the liquid to make it go faster. With time.
I've had super luck with antique bicycles and evaporust. Also used an aquarium pump to circulate it over a larger area, and cut it with 50% water and it still worked well. But usually when its surface rust, or old chrome bits.
How does it work on rusty chromed handlebars and fenders?
Great review Uncle Tony. For rust in small metal gas tank, still partially galvanized, suggest household liquid ammonia full strength. Put pebbles inside, soak and shake for maybe 6 hours. Avoid breathing fumes. Pour out liquid with rust and pebbles. Rinse well with hot water, invert drain completely, dry in hot sun.
Alkaline verus acid, acids eat any zinc coating left.
Uncle Tony I've been through something like that recently. I'm fixing and selling lawn equipment as a second job. Evaporust reacts with zinc coated parts and it actually weakens the evaporust. You don't notice it with hardware especially lightly rusted stuff, but gas tanks seem to just kill the evaporust. Also any grease or jelled up fuel diminishes its abilities too. Generally before Evaporusting stuff I spray it or soak it with Zep purple degreaser,scrub and rinse it well, then let it dry over night. The evaporust works faster and better plus I can use it more times before it isn't effective anymore. I don't want to paint my gas tanks either, I've had the best results with acidic toilet bowl cleaner. The one I use is a commercial one it's a liquid with a flip top, and it stinks. I pour it in and within about 5 minutes the tank is either rust free or damn close. Afterwards you have to rinse the hell out of it and start flushing it with baking soda or it will rust up worse over night, Then fill it with gas asap.
I use apple cider vinegar. 5% acid.
From experience I found cleaning up nasty gas tanks e85 worked good on getting the shellac like residue out...like the video...I use vinegar alot too
I gave Jeff B. my money 16.71 delivered with tax, best deal I could find. I was impressed given how benign it is. I thought it rinsed off well with water and didn't bother skin or paint for me. I also found on some things it did not work as well, but maybe because of the metal perhaps being an alloy. Turned the steel black, but it was severally rusted and was much better than it started out as.
Thanks for this content Tony...kind of a coincidence 'cause I just tried this stuff myself.
I put some rusted solid bolts in some vinegar, the put them on the stove. I was able to have the bolts work after a few minutes of wire brushing. I've also used bar keepers friend, which seems to work faster, but needs a lot of scrubbing.
I just refinished a 1910 Browning 380 using vinegar and it turned out great.
Distilled white vinegar is mostly all I use. It works perfectly, but does take some time. Important to wash off everything that has been in vinegar with water and baking soda.
On big stuff I normally used electrolysis. It's much quicker, but takes a bit to set everything up. No need to use baking soda washing off parts that have been in the electrolysis tank. For your gas tank, I'd do vinegar (no salt) and just let it set for a week. Wax the paint on the tank. Maybe even coat a film of vaseline over the top area of the tank before attempting to pour out the vinegar. May help to keep it from staining the paint, if any rusty vinegar did happen to get on it.
On a smaller scale, old mower gas tank, I used Naval Jelly and a couple hundred bbs. Shaking n swirling to agitate all areas. Worked good
Muriatic acid works well. Removed a ton of from my 73 dart project that the previous owner stripped the paint off off and let sit.
🎈🎈🎈Tony thank you for putting this type of video out .it is very educational!!! this is the type of stuff they don't teach you at mechanic school.. please keep doing videos like this!!!! of old school remedies on👍👍👍👍 how to do stuff like this🎉🎈🎉🎉🔥 please put it out there....👏👏👏🙌🙌🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
you should try your red kote tank sealer if you have never tried it before it works great especially for smaller gas tanks, hands down the best tank sealer!
Done a lot of bike tanks I’ve used the stones u get from harbor freight to polish gems and sones plus a small pic of chain then put diesel and vinegar and water . Then jack my riding mower up strapped the tank to the rear wheel put it in gear let it go for 20/30 min works great
Tony; for the inside of the fuel tank; head to the nearest sporting goods store that sell ammunition and buy a small bag of "BB" sized steel shotgun shot for reloading shot shells, add that to the inside of the tank with salt and vinegar and slosh that around. I use that in antique bottles.
Another vote here for citric acid, used it on an old tank with warm water and a aquarium heater set to 30C, took 4 days but did the job, you may need about 5 changes of solution but it will eventually get 95% of the rust out. A lot cheaper. Regards Rob B UK. Also love teh battery and emery paper trick with that head.
I did a similar test and found similar results. I will say that the vinegar solution lasts longer as in can clean more parts than the evaporust. If possible cleaning anything loose or greasy really helps too!
I think that's the problem. I think there is gas gel residue on the tank and the evaporust cannot get to the rust. I have had great luck with evaporust.
Bravo UTG《☆》Nice comparison Brother👍🤓🏈
Different stuff for different metals that sporty is amazing loove it
The best cure for rust is prevention. When I store any of my machines (even for years) that have metal gas tanks--cars, motorcycles, utility engines, tractor--I top them off with gas. I change the gas every two years and burn the old stuff in my cars. An alternative I've considered for long term storage (years and years) for very small tanks is to fill them with the cheapest oil available. Used motor oil would also work and would be one way to dispose of it. I don't think the acids in used oil would be a problem but I could be wrong about that.
Aluminum brightner works wonders on rust.Its phosphoric acid and can be diluted down if needed
The old timers used to tell me about distilled white vinegar years ago working in shops but I was too young and impatient to listen to them or wait for the results.... Now at 41 years old its all I use, even more than sandblasting because the Distilled white vinegar leaves the metal in a much cooler original unfinished raw metal state... Thanks T...
I had good luck with Evapo when I was working on my dads 67. I think if the part has any oils or residue it greatly affects the results. Degreasing first seemed to help. Could be why the tank didn’t work that good.
Tony you already know that honesty...for 10X the money...we can just give it a little bit longer and get the same and possibly better results than evapo-rust (I probably butchered the spelling). I've left severely rust tools, non-moving engine parts and all of the other really rusted parts on vinegar with fantastic results. I'm glad you shot this video because so many of the old school tricks are being lost. Vapo-rust? Ehh..vinegar? Definite results every time. You're awesome and so is your channel. I'm working on watching all of your videos. Just a request..more internal engine videos. I loved the brush painting of engine blocks,heads and internal engine blocks! Save a ton and I feel better results. Thanks for reading my comments, I hope you do anyways! 😂 your fan Dennie
last time i did a motorcycle tank, Eastwood recommended putting a few dry stones in (not rounded pebbles, but rocks with edges) into the tank and giving a good shake. Sedimentary rock might break apart, for certain it will give your shoulders one helluva workout. I will duck any proverbial stones thrown at me and recommend eye protection--not hard for a good brush scrubbing to fling stuff all around.
I also recommend molasses dips and electrolysis with washing soda. You can look these all up, they take long, but if you have more time than money, its worth trying these old blacksmithing/farmer tricks before stepping up to the serious chemicals.
My final recommend, is a future video on the classic issue, "should I top off my gas tank before winter storage or drain it dry?" Living on the humid coast, I'm still amazed folks can't agree on the answer.
Try the white vinegar without the salt. I've never used salt and have had great results. You can buy stronger percentage white vinegar and home depot and lowes carry carry muriatic acid.
I use vinegar on all my rusted parts and it has always worked for me! Thanks for the video. I always thought vinegar was basically just as good as evaporust. Seems though, most videos for evaporust make it look like it works way better than it has ever worked for me. I’ve noticed too that the tests against evaporust are never compared against vinegar, 🤷🏻♂️ wonder why? My vote vinegar!
I have a big ol bucket of old snow tire studs for tank cleaning. They work great and come free in summer tires, tho for some reason so you gotta remove them...
Something I discovered in my old age. Don't bother with food grade white vinegar, use Cleaning vinegar. you can get it at most grocery stores and find it in the cleaning supplies isle. It's almost twice as strong as food grade vinegar. Also great to remove rust from burned off paint on your car. I have a '91 D150 short bed that the roof was sollid rust. rather than sanding it and risk warpage (something I saw my friend do to the hood of his Chevy Suburban years earlier) I bought a bunch of cheap white towels, laid them on the roof, soak them with cleaning vinegar straight out of the jug (no salt) and covered the soaked towels with plastic to keep them from drying out. I left it for 4 days, not on purpose, it just happened that way, when I uncovered the towels, I went to remove them and all of the rust stuck to the towels. The sheet metal looked like it did the day it was stamped at the factory! I then washed the roof with baking soda and water to neutralize the acid in the vinegar. I got sidetracked and didn't work on the truck for 6 months, you know how that shit goes. The pickup sat out in the weather. After 6 months, it was still shiney metal, no sign of rust at all, I buzzed it down with 180, primered it and gave it a coat of paint to seal it. Cleaning vinegar is still my go to rust remover
I have an uncle named Tony and, when I bought an old car for my first car, he showed me how to polish the chrome bumper with coca-cola and 0000 pads 😂 I bloody love this channel.
Can you remind people, though, that, if they use vinegar on any engine parts, they need to thoroughly rinse them before letting them near any freshly-machine iron - like, say, an engine block. Vinegar + bare steel or iron = insta-rust. It's like 04-DW (the opposite of WD-40).
A cheap alternative is a mixture of one part molasses to five parts water is also a very good solution for rust removal. Stirring the mixture from time to time will keep it more active against the rusted surfaces. Cheers
what i do for fuel tanks (lawnmower to truck (60gal)) is to wash with solvent first or soap to remove the oil. then put some course sand and small gravel inside. close up and tie to a car or truck wheel on a jack stand. run in low gear (turns tank slowly) till clean (works best dry) but will work wet. rinse and dry. works every time. it will also show you if the tank has rusted thru.
Thx uncle T😊
I reuse my evapo liquid probably 10x. Which I’m sure you can do with vinegar to an extent. Vinegar also ruins paint over time. I use both.
Evaporust is great but it doesn't like thick scaly stuff , and , it will definitely eat paint on long exposures to it .
I learned that when rebuilding my winch , and , losing my alignment marks on the 2 gear housing parts , ultimately costing me $300 for a new aluminum end housing and gasket set , plus a 3 week delay .
Vinegar and salt works , as does citric acid which is available in bulk pretty cheaply .
The vinegar and salt trick also works for corroded copper wires , needing just 15 minutes to turn blackened greenish wire back to shiny red .
Follow up with a soak in a saturated solution of water and baking soda to neutralize the acetic acid . This can save you from having to replace an entire harness , or , at least stave off replacing it for a while . Also works on corroded contacts in connectors , especially headlight connectors .
Heat speeds up the process , and , a cheap garage sale crock pot is perfect for quickly cleaning up small parts , nuts , bolts , etc ..
Take my advice and do this OUTSIDE .
Hot acids reek something fierce .
In my experience the best rust treatments are phosphoric acid based. The advantage is that it converts the rust into a grey colour that can be brushed off and painted over-no washing off is necessary.
Here's the way I've seen Vinegar and salt used.
Start by adding ½ cup salt to ½ gallon vinegar in a plastic container. Drop your rusty extras into the solution, and let them soak for about 12 hours. Next, pour out the salt-and-vinegar solution, rinse off the metal objects, and then immediately return them to the container. Now fill with ½ gallon fresh water and ½ cup baking soda to neutralize any remaining vinegar trapped inside the crevices. After about 10 minutes, rinse the items in warm water, and finish by drying them thoroughly.
Seems to work well, but you do need to use the baking soda afterwards if there's any plates, kinks, etc on the metal you're de-rusting.
used vinegar to remove flaky surface rust from the floor of my nash metro years ago, soaked shop rags in the vinegar spread them out on the floor covered with plastic , checked every other day/wiped off the sludge rinsed and repeated till the floors were clean as a whistle. you have to paint right after you clean it off for the last time because it will flash rust almost instantly
hello big tony it is me david in huntsville al. i used a log chain &nuts bolts ect on my 1970 ducati 350cc move tank back & forth many many ect times it took four very very LLLong time BUT it worked it was a solid runt coated just like your HD OK try this next put in a mix of muratic acid MIXED with water BUT DO NOT leave it in very long time at all the more acid you use the less time you keep the mix in the tank my pal uses the mix of water & murati acid to remove mill scale off any new metal before he welds it , i am a TIG welder of 25 plus years and i was impressed REMEMBER when you were repairin 2 cycle bores you use muratic acid on a Q tip to remove the aluminum that was smeared to the steel bore i KNOW you have done this process back when you were puting in that wiseco piston in your 2 stroke dirt bike be careful the acid is strong so delute as you think is what ya need just a idea LOVE YOUR PROGRAM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!