I did the same with my cx500 tank this weekend. I noticed that after the elektrolysis it increases the effect, if you fill in a mix of water and citratacid. I used 400ml of acid on the 17 liter of the tank and filled it up with boiling water.( Sorry I'm from Europe, we use metric units😅) let that mixture rest over night. The surface of the inner tank looks almost like new after that. After flushing the tank with water, use 94% ethanol (here that's called "spiritus") to neutralise the rest of the water that's left in the tank. 1 liter will be enough. Then you can use spray-oil or just fill the tank with gas.
In the USA we have Denatured alcohol which is like 90% Ethanol and 10% Methanol so you won't be tempted to drink it with no Federal Government Liquor tax on it . 1 Liter is slighter more than a quart and 4 quarts to a gallon .. so 3.78 Liters is one gallon .
Definitely one of those saved videos that I will be able to keep going back to for a solid reference ! I have always understood the process, but never actually applied it in real life application ! Great job with the video ! Extremely easy to understand !
The sodium carbonate is to lower the resistance of the water for better ionic flow. That’s all it’s for. Most water works well but adding this makes the process faster and uses less voltage to drive the current.
Excellent tutorial! Easy to do and not as intimidating as many people may think. An older fella near me would use this process with a plastic tote to clean up rusty parts. Well done young man
Great content. You mentioned the process works better with hot water. A general rule of thumb I learned from high school chemistry is: "The chemical reaction rate will double for every 10 degrees temperature rise". Also, for the light rust remaining after the electrolysis is done, rinse the tank and pour in a gallon of Evaporust. Let the tank sit for several days in various positions. I have had good results with this product restoring rusty tools.
evaporust costs like $30. It's a great recommendation but if you're on a budget maybe a better alternative solution is out there, such as citric acid (lemon)
Evaporust's active ingredient has a fickle half life when exposed to air, that being said use as much as possible and make sure you cap it off in the tank or it will start to loose effectiveness rapidly. Overnight the product could potentially be rendered useless.
Well I hope you all enjoyed the video as it was intended to be a straightforward demo on the process I've been using for years now with 100% success. I see many questions online about how to do this and felt a video was much needed in order to help all those unfamiliar with the process. Unfortunately though it seems everyone has an issue with this whether it be potential for gasses building up, me using a battery, not using one the 10,000 other preferred rinsing menthods, not using a more expensive or dangerous method, not using harsh acids, you name it. I am simply showing my preferred method from doing this over the years. In regards to potential explosions here is a great video demonstrating what it takes to actually ignite. Not the volume of what he is doing as well. ua-cam.com/video/_YTWkMRDxOs/v-deo.html
The other way i did it on my GL1000 tank was to get some thin rubber tube , like a bike tube and put a few holes in it , and put you steel electrode inside and this stops it earthing on the tank , worked good too . Cheers .
I dont know if anyone mentioned but if you put your towell in it then use compressed air to blow it around, it does a really good job of cleaning and dryin the whole tank
I bought a '77 Yamaha XS 650 that needed restoring. Gas tank was very rusty inside. I did the vinegar and distilled water solution and threw in a couple of soup can full of gravel I "borrowed" from the highway dept. barn. I would leave it sit for a few hours, then shake the crap out of it for a couple minutes every few hours. Did that for like 3 days. Tank looked like brand new inside again...I was shocked it turned out that good. Don't need no stinking electrolysis....
A nice, clear description. I've been removing rust using this method recently, but on motorcycle chassis parts. I used a large plastic storage box with about 11 UK gallons of electrolyte, and a car battery charger. The cathode was three strips of 1" mild steel, bent and bolted together so they sat on edge along the bottom of the box. Another strip was bolted to them and stuck out of the electrolyte for the negative connection. The parts hung on steel wires from another 1" strip that I laid across the top of the box; the positive connection went to this strip. As you did, I used sodium carbonate to adjust the resistance of the electrolyte. Mine came as "Soda Crystals" from the household cleaning shelves of the supermarket. I added the sodium carbonate until the charger was working at close to its maximum; 9 amps. I kept an eye on the current, and saw that the current falls as the cathode gets coated in the same sludge you found; when it gets down to about 3 amps it's time to remove the sludge. It's soft and comes off easily as I'm sure you know, but eventually this doesn't get the current back up as the cathode now has a hard coating. An abrasive angle grinder wheel soon sorts it out for another rust removal session. I'll certainly use this process again.
@@Bailey-y9b It's all dismantled now and my parts have been painted, but I'll give you a few more details. This doesn't have to be done to precise dimensions. The cathode was just bent to shape without measurements to form a sideways stretched capital 'E' shape, with the top and bottom parts of the 'E' parallel with the long sides of the storage box, and about 2 or 3 inches away from those sides. The vertical line of the 'E' went along the end of the box, and another strip went along the middle. Another strip was vertical, to bring the connection point for the charger out of the water. This gave me as direct a path as possible from rusty parts to cathode. I did have to kink in the cathode strips when I de-rusted my luggage rack, so no one bit of the rack was too close. I just bent it over my knee. My centre stand had to be done half at a time, as when fully submerged there was too much surface area and the charger saw it as a short circuit and would cut out. When turning on the charger I would hold the lead away from the cathode and just tap it on the metal to see that there wasn't a short circuit, before attaching it with its crocodile clip. This may have already been said, but electrolysis gives off hydrogen and oxygen; both flammable. Don't do it indoors, or even in a closed garage or shed.
@@davidgecko1070 As far as I know, not with the above setup, which removes the rust but not any of the steel of the tank; you couldn't just use a stainless steel cathode and reverse the polarity, plating the tank with stainless steel.
Have found a company in India that hand makes fuel tanks for the domestic bike market who have informed me can copy any old wasted tank that’s sent to them. Not the most convenient solution I know but possibly a good fall back for almost impossible to source good condition vintage tanks. Really enjoyed the series, informative and entertaining 👌✌️
@@TrapShooter68 at this point in time I can't sorry as negotiating a commercial contract with them. Time and Internet searching will get you similar results. Regards
Nicely done video. Got my first virago tank over there cooking at the bench. Batteries, cables, chargers, like a science fair project. RighT up my alley. Thanks
Yes this is a good idea to clean gas tanks. If you wanted to do this on an old custom, and make it last for a long time, You could then add Tank Sealer which comes in two or three colours. This is applied by poring the liquid into the tank and sealing both filler and tap holes, then sloshing it all around the inside until you have a nice even coat. Empty any excess and leave to dry. It looks best when it is done in white! Thanks for the Vid.
@@BrickHouseBuildspersonally I’m not a fan of tank sealers and if one must ever do a repair on a tank where sealer was used requiring welding you’ll know why. To me a tank sealer is the very last resort for fixing an otherwise useless tank.
This is crazy B.J. ~ Not gonna lie. Just yesterday I finally got around to looking at the 600 Bandit, got the seat off, looked into the tank. Yea. Needs this treatment. I am just getting into motorcycle mode. So distracted. Now working on the Nighthawk cb750 and making more plans for the 1200 Bandit. This demo is gold for so many people. Thank you so much for this. ~~~Mr. Not Worthy from New Hampshire. 〰💥👍💥〰
Thank you so much to show this easy way to get away rust. I bought a cbr 600 F pc25 a few months ago and it's got nasty rust und particels inside the Tank, becaus the bike stood for three years with only a few liters of Gas inside, so the rust could made Party. Even two of four throttles from the carbs where stucking, so I had to put them in Diesel for a few weeks. Long Story short, my biggest issue was the rusty tank, but now I got a solution because of your Video, thanks a lot man 👍💪😊
I really respect the way you make so many tools and items you need!!! You work with what you have. Broken side plate, fiberglass work. Love it!!!! New subscriber!!!!
Hi Tried your petrol tank cleaning using electrolysis and its worked great. I did a few checks and found that as the electrode gets dirty the current flow dropped for 10amps down to 0.5amps after 6 hour. I clean the electrode back to clean metal and the current flow was back up to 10+ amps. after two sessions the tank is looking good. I'm giving the tank one more session to remove some small spots. The tank is off a 1964 Honda CB77 which still had petrol in the from 1976 when it was last registered is Michigan USA. Its now in Scotland UK undergoing a complete refurbishment. So thankyou for the information.
I'm currently cleaning a fiat ducato campervan fuel tank with this process , same as you I've only ever cleaned metal detecting finds with this process
I once cleaned a tank using BBs. Couple hands full, wrapped in a sleeping bag taped up and threw it in the clothes drier. I’m about to undertake a French moped whose tank is part of the frame. This seems more practical. Thanks for the lesson.
I've got my 76 CB750 tank up on the bench "cooking" right now. Hoping for good results. Rust in the tank left me stranded as you and the group rode by to your openhouse! Dont want a repeat of that. Got it on a motorcycle battery and a 10 amp car charger. See how that combo works.
Glad to see it work, when I tried it I had no access to hot water for the initial mix. Didn't work very well. I had luck saving 3 tanks with white vinegar, though. I will try it again.
I think I'm going to give it a try. I'm going to step it up a notch see if this will work. My situation is I have an rd350 motor with a seized crank because it's rusted not because it ran low on oil for anything and the Pistons are awesome so I'm going to dip the whole thing in some water and see if I can use that electrolysis on Breaking Free these parts. Thank you for sharing
Great Video! I kinda forgot how easy this was, and I'm working on an old 1983 Suzuki 1100G and for sure I will do this, Thank You so much. That tank came off one of the very best over-all Bikes to ride, and work on, no time was ever wasted in the saddle, riding a CB!
Thanks for the video! For what it's worth, right after you rinse and blot the tank, a quart of 2-stroke gas/oil mix at 25:1 ratio, using fresh ETHANOL gas is an outstanding way to clean/oil and de-moisturize the tank. The gas and oil seal up the fresh metal and stop the rust while the ethanol in the fuel absorbs any remaining moisture. Shake it around for a few minutes to no more than an hour, then get it out. It will leave a very thin oil film and you are good to go. At that point, I always run the mix through a filter and dump it in my old truck. It doesn't do anything but lubricate my fuel pump a little and you aren't wasting fuel or polluting unnecessarily. No, it doesn't smell or anything like that. Just a good way to use it up.
Good video with excellent technique.....this should help a lot of guys. Thanks! I used RustBuster (trademark), small gravel and sand. When I was done shaking and rinsing with gas/diesel the tank looked polished inside.
Fogging oil is great to use with engines. It's used a lot and outboard and inboard motors on boats. When you winterize you can bring it through the throttle body or pull each plug and squeeze some of it into the cylinders being careful not to overdo it. I really loved your technique with using the old cap to hold your bar. I thought it was genius to make sure to cut holes into it. It definitely builds up gas. I enjoyed watching this so I made sure to give you a thumbs up and hit the subscribe button. Whenever I watch something and I like it I always want you make sure to subscribe and like. I figure that's the least I can do since you took your time to do all of this and share some knowledge. Looking forward to watching more of your videos.
Absolutelly fantastic, very informative, Thanks very much for sharing, I can use this process to clean out a harley that been sittings for years, Now i feel confident it can be brought back to life with a clean gas tank and gas, AGAIN, thanks very much for sharing your knowledge,
Not sure if mentioned (may have missed it) but this process does give off a nasty gas, so you should do this in a very well ventilated location or outside. Also, I found doing this over several days the best, clean the anode several times a day as it impacts the battery charger effectiveness if not.
In some UA-cam videos you actually see somebody using one of those long cigarette lighters and they they pointed towards the bubbles and you watch them pop and give off a little bit of flame. It is very dangerous to do that. Most of the videos do it outside but there are some that do it right in their garage.
it's because electrolysis generates also hydrogen gas from decomposing the water, hydrogen is VERY dangerous as it can get on fire extremely easily, that's also why when ou jump start a car with a dead battery, the negative cable from the donor battery should be attached to the car's frame and not straigh to the negative side of the dead battery
Did this on my Ariel Leader tank as it is in the frame and hard to remove. Worked a treat. Wonder if reversing the polarity and using a zinc plate would give it a coating to slow down flash rusting
Methylated spirits is really good for removing moisture from tanks. It joins with the water, then you drain it, then adding some gasoline, will mix with the remaining meths. Perhaps introducing citric acid water after the electrolysis to make iron citrate which is a protective layer, would stop the flash rusting, iron oxide because both can’t be there at the same time.
Methylated Spirits (Metho) will absorb any water instead of having to dry the tank out with heat gun. Metho mixes with water and once you pour it out you can use it again or burn it in an Alcohol burner or Metho stove. You can also use pre mix two stroke oil to coat the inside of the tanks - once you ready to fill then drain any excess as a bit of 2 stroke in the fuel even on a four stroke will have negligible effect on the plugs and cylinder of the 4 stroke. The residual oil on the inside possibly only resulting ratio something like 100 :1 once the fuel mixes with the oil. No issue in the burn and possibly not even any smoke
Thanks for the break down on the process. I'm getting ready to do this to my generator gas tank. I'll probably use WD instead of fogging oil. Thanks for the upload
Thanks for the detailed and clearly presented tutorial! I had tried electrolysis on a tank years ago and wasn’t impressed. I see now I probably just didn’t give it enough time.
@@BrickHouseBuildsif I repeat what you did and add the fogging oil to store it for some time, do I need to remove the oil before I fill it with gasoline?
Thanks for the informative video BJ. I’ve always wanted to do this but my tanks have never been in as good of shape as that one. Mine typically look like absolute crap lol
+1 Heat! Excellent demonstration and clear, useful explanations, amigo. I want to derust a baffled tank with electrolysis. Any idea if the line-of-sight effect will reach behind the baffles? Also: It's nice to see the Pinchy-Grabby in action. My grandfather invented that!
The baffles aren't designed to be liquid proof but rather slow the sloshing of the fuel as the vehicle moves. Filling it up to the brim will make it a non issue
Great video and really helpful i was looking at other sites to see which one looks the best, but this is the one I like, what i liked about the video was there was no bullshit and making out that it was so easy like other videos, it was nicely explained, so here I go and try it, knowing my luck I'll probably drop the tank, but thankyou for your video.
Was going to suggest cleaning up the anode a little to create some bare metal on it, but it turned out it still did the job just fine. Something I've used in the past to clean items you can't get a brush into is Shell Grit from pet stores. It works as an abrasive as you shake around with water, rather than use a chain like you said. Would obviously have to be confident you got it all rinsed out though and don't know if you'd be happy to use on a tank.
That was awesome man. I appreciate the tie you took to make this video and sharing your knowledge. I am surprised how well 12v did to help the electrolysis process. I will definitely keep this idea in mind. Thank you.
Great video and yes this is the ONLY way to deduct a tank. Reverse the processes current and use a heavily galvanized cathode to cover the bare, interior, now clean tank with resulting black zinc oxide to prevent rerusting.
@@XwpisONOMA Hot dipped galvanized has a heavy zinc coating, electrogalvanized has a very thin coating. Hot dipped galvanized parts are rough, electrogalvanized parts are smooth.
@@stankrieger3598 use a length of linked chain or a home made necklace from some 8mm - 13mm nuts & heavy fishing line, then simply pull the lot out after use, I found some ball bearings were always pesky varmints to remove.
Ok I have one question....if like me you do your work on your bikes in the winter time, what is an alternative to the Ph up that is available in the winter?
What u build ur nanoed from? Is it ok to use welding rod for better charge? New to tank cleaning i. usually, a sand blast or bead blasting this method of yours much easier and cheaper
I have a 71 Honda tank that was worse and I broke up the rust with a quarter inch cable that I unbraided at one end and put it in a drill to loosen up the rest and I been trying rust remover .I am going to try your method to finish it up. Thank you. a t
Did this to a Yamaha tank years ago. When doing the final rinses I added a handful of small gravel into the tank. The gravel acted as an "abrasive" knocking off remaining rust. Interior of the tank was shiny steel when done
You just encouraged me to try this. I went the vinegar route and it worked well, but I still have some bright orange looking rust in low areas. I plan on doing this soon. Quick question. You had like jumper clamps with connectors on that battery, what would those be called if I were go to a local hardware or automotive shop to buy them? Thanks again bro. Dude I wish you were closer to me in Oklahoma.
Hot water helps to dissolve the electrolyte. This is a great way to do this.I always used a very large solder iron to patch any holes before using Cleaning Vinegar to get rid of rust.Patch all holes.Plug all holes.Fill with Cleaning Vinegar.Let sit for a couple of days.That usually does the trick. I follow with a tank liner.Damond Redcoat is the best I have used. Good luck!!
I've used vinegar as well but don't like the acidity and eating metal. It has its place for sure. I've never seen a redkote stick so my go to is por15 or caswells
Electrolysis is an amazing process. I use it to clean cast iron but I like seeing how you use it. My tank holds 35 gallons so I don't change the solution very often. Since I am mixing a lot of solution I use a paint mixer on a variable speed drill to prevent clumping. Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda mixed at 1 1/2 tablespoons per gallon is what I use. More than 2 tablespoons per gallon can be hard on the battery charger. Stainless Steel anodes are much easier to clean than carbon steel. I've lined my tank with SS Sheetmetal. There is controversy about using stainless in electrolysis but it's been safe for me. I use a rolling 200 amp battery charger. Around 38 amps is usually what the machine puts out. In my case when the piece hangs inside the tank I hang it inside a pillowcase to catch most of the crud. This keeps the tank cleaner longer. I made the mistake of trying to clean aluminum in there, don't do that. lol
Stainless steel anodes release highly carcinogenic hexavalent chromium ions. You are better off using carbon arc gouging electrodes for the anode. Carbon doesn't get consumed and doesn't release toxic ions
@@paulg3336 I'm certainly not a chemist but this is the way I've used the tank. We are empty nesters so there are unused bathrooms. (Much to my wife's delight) I set the tank up in one of the tubs along with a lye tank. My charger is a Schumacher 1565 that usually delivers 38 amps depending on the surface area of the pieces. My tank is a 55 gallon plastic pickle barrel cut to hold 35 gallons and it is 25" tall. I have two SS sheet metal anodes that measure 35"X16" lining the inside. I clean for two estate sale companies plus myself so it has operated 24/7 for days at a time. I've had things to spark over the tank with no BOOM. I've used the tank in this location for over a year. This is my exact set up and I'm not advocating that everyone should do this but it works for me. If we have company I can pull the shower curtain and it all goes away.
Any thing acidic will eat away at the good metal + rust. This process will only attack the rust. I use 1/2 cup of washing soda to 5 gallons of water. All of the waste water from doing this is good to dump on lawn or garden, is a good fertilizer and is safe. I throughly dry my tanks also with a little alcohol to help in drying. Then a little bit of 2 stroke oil, or like video, fogging oil. Then I only run only alcohol free gas in it. Been doing this for fifty years and lots of tanks. I also do use any liners in my works.
@@robertjeffries1758 Same way with cast iron Robert. Some people use 50% white vinegar and 50% water to scrub rust off cast iron but if the metal is pitted the vinegar will attack the pits making them worse. You never want to leave vinegar on a piece longer than 30 minutes. I've had people tell me they let cast iron soak in full strength vinegar for days. I want to say "well that's what they look like". Electrolysis won't make things worse no matter how long ya leave it in. This has been my experience anyway. I bought some really bad pieces to experiment with. You'll be told everything and some people really shouldn't be talking. I didn't know anything about it in the beginning and needed to learn, I still learn today.
My chemistry class was 50 years ago but I have one concern with this, what about the gas being released during the electrolysis? Hydrogen is lighter than air and would rise but could possibly pool especially at the cap. Good ventilation or doing this outdoors would seem to be best. Good video, very clear and easy. I have 2 tanks I need to get the rust out of. Thanks.
Brillante idea! Felicitaciones por el trabajo y por el video muy bien explicado, tengo taller mecánico (garaje) veré de implementar este Sistema. Con respecto del aceite que pones para mantenerlo que no oxide mientras no esta en uso, quizás sea mas practico agregarle 1/2 Ltrs de gasoil y batirlo! Pues el diesel es un aceite muy fino, antes de ponerlo a trabajar le enjuagar con Nafta y listo, que te parece? Saludos desde Uruguay Sud America Bye Hugo.
Glad you liked it. The fogging oil is designed to cling and coat metal for extended periods of time which is why I used it. I don't want a separate container for diesel fuel as that smells and takes up space which I don't have a lot of.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Ok, surely the oil you used must be more effective! In my workshop (Garage) I have had to clean through a chemical process (acids and neutralizers for the acid that cleans) motorcycle tanks as well as car tanks, the latter are more or less 60 liters, which is why I came up with diesel . Well, congratulations again and thanks for sharing, as it is very useful to have alternatives for the same job. PS, I am watching the video of the Benelli 756, in my workshop we rebuilt a Benelli 254 (250cc 4 cylinders from the same era) Best regards
Great to see an excellently filmed and intelligently presented informative instructional video👍 I've previously used a weak hydrofluoric acid mixture (no electrolysis) with pleasing results but for a just about every reason you can think of, this is clearly a better way of doing the job. I do quite a few tanks so you've saved me time and effort and it'll be cheaper and less hazardous as well! I wonder if anything can be gained from using different material sacrificial anodes? Thanks for an excellent video, I'm subscribed 👍
Excellent presentation! Does the little bit of superficial rust left over not matter because the internal metal surface unpainted will always have some degree of rust anyway? Good reason to keep tank full :).
In the grand scheme it doesn't matter but get all that you can out. Always run a filter as those small particles can get into jets. My issue was using a slower process to dry via the blow dryer. Some alcohol would have helped to get the water out and then quickly get some oil on the metal
This just randomly popped up in my feed (at 1:30am😂) and i did NOT expect it to work that good. I don't really work on old bikes but i can certainly think of some other applications i wanna try it on. Thanks man👍
Well glad it showed up and appreciate you checking it out. This rust removal process can be used in endless ways so keep the idea in your back pocket for when you need it.
I have to say this seems much better then what I have done to clean tanks, I am going to try this instead . A much simpler and cheaper option and I have a perfect candidate I just got to work on an old honda helix . Thanks for the video
This is awesome instructions. I'll use to clean up a 1984 Honda Z-50 Tank. Anxious to get started!! What are you using for the sacrificial rod Is it aluminum or zinc? Thanks!!
I did some Mercedes seat spring beds this way years ago - very thorough! Any particular reason why you don't just use vinegar? I have had good luck with vinegar, rinse and then add Ospho to convert any remaining rust -seems to work good.
Might be a silly question here but since you connected the battery to the anode and the connection point of the battery are on the positive and negative terminals of the battery but then you took a charger and plugged it into the wall and connected it to the same part of the battery isn't that the equivalent of just plugging it directly into the wall or plugging it directly into the battery charger. At the point of connection from the charger to the cable that's connected to the positive terminal and connected to the anode
@AdrianTam-tj9qv many people seem to question this. I simply have a low amp charger so I just run my battery and try to trickle charge it as it gets used. Has worked for me for years but feel free to do it how you want
Thak you so much for the video. I have a question regarding the use of fogging oil. When the engine is eventually ready to be run, is it just a matter of filling up the tank with gas and away we go? Or does the fogging oil need to be removed first? My bike is a 2003 r6 with electroic fuel injection.
thank you for posting. have you measured the actual current flowing during electrolysis ? you might be able to dispense w/ the batt & just hook the charger leads to the tank & anode [zinc ?].
Yes, the tank can be electro-galvanized immediately after rust removal, but the problem is usually that the tank starts to surface rust before electro-galvanizing (as soon as it dries). In this case, the zinc no longer adheres. Before electro-galvanizing, it would be good to acid-treat the tank with phosphoric acid, which leaves a phosphate coating that does not rust and to which the zinc adheres well, if you still want to galvanize the tank. I do not recommend hydrochloric acid in this context because it would need to be passivated (phosphoric acid works better in this case, especially if you still want to galvanize the tank).
Thank you so much for the video! I am going through the process as I type cleaning my 56 year old Honda Scrambler tank. I'm using a six amp charger hooked directly and already have debris after 2 hours. Surprised how warm the tank is staying. I'm using in my detached garage as its 8 degrees outside and snowing. Thanks again!
Did you have a step by step on how to remove dents from a tank? I remember seeing a vid where you put a tube into a tank and inflated it but I cannot seem find it again.
So, a very well done video on removing rust and leaving bare steel afterwords. Fogging Oil will put an oil barrier between the Oxygen in the air and the steel -- a good thing. THAT removes the rust and puts a temporary oil barrier to stop or at least stop any further surface rust --- until you put gasoline into the tank. Good-by to the oil which now dissolves into the gasoline and now that raw steel surface starts (through the Ethanol and the condensed water vapor going into that Ethanol) to rust all over again. What do you use to seal that raw steel surface inside the tank?
The tank is not going to immediately rust when you are low on fuel. This rusted to the point you see after 40 years so I'm good. I didn't line the tank as there may be a change id repair the dings and dents down the road meaning the liner would be ruined
If you have a fuel gauge sending unit in the tank, I suppose you need to remove it? Copper and nichrome wire might not do well....or have you tried it in the past? If I take sending unit out, I have a big hole in the bottom to seal before I can do this.
Just want to throw this in for whatever it's worth, I learned from an old timer here on UA-cam that does a lot of rust removal with electrolysis to use carbon rods or plates instead of metal or steel for the anode, it's a much cleaner process this way and all that gunk doesn't build up and stick to it like it does metal and you don't get as much gunky muck in the electrolysis tank either. I've used this method a couple of times so far and it works like a charm. I got a couple of small carbon plates off of Ebay, they sell them just for this purpose and yes, they're more expensive than just using steel or metal but I think it's worth it, they last a long time over multiple uses and you can get many different sizes depending on what you need, give it a try you'll be surprised. Also, he said that the black coating that happens on the part that you're removing rust from to keep it on there and don't clean it off right away if you're not going to be putting a finish on it for awhile, evidently it functions as a rust barrier until you're ready to finish it. I've personally never done this because I've always just finished the peice or part as soon as I get it cleaned up but throwing it out there in case you ever want or need to leave a part for awhile before you're able to finish it.
I did the same with my cx500 tank this weekend. I noticed that after the elektrolysis it increases the effect, if you fill in a mix of water and citratacid. I used 400ml of acid on the 17 liter of the tank and filled it up with boiling water.( Sorry I'm from Europe, we use metric units😅) let that mixture rest over night. The surface of the inner tank looks almost like new after that. After flushing the tank with water, use 94% ethanol (here that's called "spiritus") to neutralise the rest of the water that's left in the tank. 1 liter will be enough. Then you can use spray-oil or just fill the tank with gas.
Excellent video Thanks
What type/name of acid? What concentration?
Thx
Doesn't matter. I use citrit acid, that's supposed for cleaning coffee machines. 300ml of it. Fill the tank with hot water. Let it rest over night.
Wow!!! CX 500 I still dream with that bike since the '80 s . Congrats Bro!!!!
In the USA we have Denatured alcohol which is like 90% Ethanol and 10% Methanol so you won't be tempted to drink it with no Federal Government Liquor tax on it .
1 Liter is slighter more than a quart and 4 quarts to a gallon .. so 3.78 Liters is one gallon .
Definitely one of those saved videos that I will be able to keep going back to for a solid reference !
I have always understood the process, but never actually applied it in real life application !
Great job with the video !
Extremely easy to understand !
Glad you found it helpful! I have used this many times and it has always been consistent for me.
The sodium carbonate is to lower the resistance of the water for better ionic flow. That’s all it’s for. Most water works well but adding this makes the process faster and uses less voltage to drive the current.
and distilled water would work somewhat better.
Excellent tutorial! Easy to do and not as intimidating as many people may think. An older fella near me would use this process with a plastic tote to clean up rusty parts. Well done young man
Thank ya much! Its a nice process I wish more would try
Great content. You mentioned the process works better with hot water. A general rule of thumb I learned from high school chemistry is: "The chemical reaction rate will double for every 10 degrees temperature rise".
Also, for the light rust remaining after the electrolysis is done, rinse the tank and pour in a gallon of Evaporust. Let the tank sit for several days in various positions. I have had good results with this product restoring rusty tools.
Would you also recommend using a tank liner afterwards?
evaporust costs like $30. It's a great recommendation but if you're on a budget maybe a better alternative solution is out there, such as citric acid (lemon)
high school chemistry lol
Evaporust's active ingredient has a fickle half life when exposed to air, that being said use as much as possible and make sure you cap it off in the tank or it will start to loose effectiveness rapidly. Overnight the product could potentially be rendered useless.
Well I hope you all enjoyed the video as it was intended to be a straightforward demo on the process I've been using for years now with 100% success. I see many questions online about how to do this and felt a video was much needed in order to help all those unfamiliar with the process.
Unfortunately though it seems everyone has an issue with this whether it be potential for gasses building up, me using a battery, not using one the 10,000 other preferred rinsing menthods, not using a more expensive or dangerous method, not using harsh acids, you name it. I am simply showing my preferred method from doing this over the years.
In regards to potential explosions here is a great video demonstrating what it takes to actually ignite. Not the volume of what he is doing as well. ua-cam.com/video/_YTWkMRDxOs/v-deo.html
I'm wondering why you need to use a battery. Couldn't you just hook up a battery tender since it's putting out 13-14 VDC?
@@ohsoloco5113 I explained my reasoning in the video actually. I feel my sub 2 amp tender is not powerful enough to do the job
@@BrickHouseBuilds good to know. I apparently wasn't paying attention 😅
Hydrogen will be produced in small amounts but all you need to do is keep your work area well ventilated until you have completed the task.
@@xbbjdf8 this is such a tiny amount of gas there really is no danger
The other way i did it on my GL1000 tank was to get some thin rubber tube , like a bike tube and put a few holes in it , and put you steel electrode inside and this stops it earthing on the tank , worked good too . Cheers .
I dont know if anyone mentioned but if you put your towell in it then use compressed air to blow it around, it does a really good job of cleaning and dryin the whole tank
Nice tip 👍
I bought a '77 Yamaha XS 650 that needed restoring. Gas tank was very rusty inside. I did the vinegar and distilled water solution and threw in a couple of soup can full of gravel I "borrowed" from the highway dept. barn. I would leave it sit for a few hours, then shake the crap out of it for a couple minutes every few hours. Did that for like 3 days. Tank looked like brand new inside again...I was shocked it turned out that good. Don't need no stinking electrolysis....
I also have a video showing that process. Every tank is different
A nice, clear description. I've been removing rust using this method recently, but on motorcycle chassis parts. I used a large plastic storage box with about 11 UK gallons of electrolyte, and a car battery charger. The cathode was three strips of 1" mild steel, bent and bolted together so they sat on edge along the bottom of the box. Another strip was bolted to them and stuck out of the electrolyte for the negative connection.
The parts hung on steel wires from another 1" strip that I laid across the top of the box; the positive connection went to this strip. As you did, I used sodium carbonate to adjust the resistance of the electrolyte. Mine came as "Soda Crystals" from the household cleaning shelves of the supermarket.
I added the sodium carbonate until the charger was working at close to its maximum; 9 amps. I kept an eye on the current, and saw that the current falls as the cathode gets coated in the same sludge you found; when it gets down to about 3 amps it's time to remove the sludge. It's soft and comes off easily as I'm sure you know, but eventually this doesn't get the current back up as the cathode now has a hard coating. An abrasive angle grinder wheel soon sorts it out for another rust removal session.
I'll certainly use this process again.
I want to see you're setup, please
@@Bailey-y9b It's all dismantled now and my parts have been painted, but I'll give you a few more details.
This doesn't have to be done to precise dimensions. The cathode was just bent to shape without measurements to form a sideways stretched capital 'E' shape, with the top and bottom parts of the 'E' parallel with the long sides of the storage box, and about 2 or 3 inches away from those sides. The vertical line of the 'E' went along the end of the box, and another strip went along the middle. Another strip was vertical, to bring the connection point for the charger out of the water.
This gave me as direct a path as possible from rusty parts to cathode. I did have to kink in the cathode strips when I de-rusted my luggage rack, so no one bit of the rack was too close. I just bent it over my knee.
My centre stand had to be done half at a time, as when fully submerged there was too much surface area and the charger saw it as a short circuit and would cut out.
When turning on the charger I would hold the lead away from the cathode and just tap it on the metal to see that there wasn't a short circuit, before attaching it with its crocodile clip.
This may have already been said, but electrolysis gives off hydrogen and oxygen; both flammable. Don't do it indoors, or even in a closed garage or shed.
Can you use stainless steel as a sacrificial anode? Would this help rustproof the inside of the tank?
@@davidgecko1070 As far as I know, not with the above setup, which removes the rust but not any of the steel of the tank; you couldn't just use a stainless steel cathode and reverse the polarity, plating the tank with stainless steel.
Have found a company in India that hand makes fuel tanks for the domestic bike market who have informed me can copy any old wasted tank that’s sent to them. Not the most convenient solution I know but possibly a good fall back for almost impossible to source good condition vintage tanks.
Really enjoyed the series, informative and entertaining 👌✌️
Glad you enjoyed
Would you share their name and contact information?
@@TrapShooter68 at this point in time I can't sorry as negotiating a commercial contract with them. Time and Internet searching will get you similar results.
Regards
@@nickvinten7803my boy touchin paper
Nicely done video. Got my first virago tank over there cooking at the bench. Batteries, cables, chargers, like a science fair project. RighT up my alley. Thanks
Hope it does well for ya!
Yes this is a good idea to clean gas tanks. If you wanted to do this on an old custom, and make it last for a long time, You could then add Tank Sealer which
comes in two or three colours. This is applied by poring the liquid into the tank and sealing both filler and tap holes, then sloshing it all around the inside until
you have a nice even coat. Empty any excess and leave to dry. It looks best when it is done in white! Thanks for the Vid.
Liners are usually a good idea yes. I didn't do one in this due to the dents which I may repair. Doing so would ruin a liner
@@BrickHouseBuildspersonally I’m not a fan of tank sealers and if one must ever do a repair on a tank where sealer was used requiring welding you’ll know why. To me a tank sealer is the very last resort for fixing an otherwise useless tank.
Tank paint is right up there witb radiator stop leak.
Crap that only lazy idiots use.
This is crazy B.J. ~ Not gonna lie. Just yesterday I finally got around to looking at the 600 Bandit, got the seat off, looked into the tank. Yea. Needs this treatment. I am just getting into motorcycle mode. So distracted. Now working on the Nighthawk cb750 and making more plans for the 1200 Bandit. This demo is gold for so many people. Thank you so much for this. ~~~Mr. Not Worthy from New Hampshire. 〰💥👍💥〰
You never cease to increase my knowledge and confidence. I'll be a life-long fan of the channel because of that!
Well thank you Tony!
@@BrickHouseBuilds I use apple cider vinegar. works great!!!
@@mrseaweed5587 I've used that an other stuff but still prefer the electrolysis for being less aggressive and not needing to be neutralized
Thank you so much to show this easy way to get away rust. I bought a cbr 600 F pc25 a few months ago and it's got nasty rust und particels inside the Tank, becaus the bike stood for three years with only a few liters of Gas inside, so the rust could made Party. Even two of four throttles from the carbs where stucking, so I had to put them in Diesel for a few weeks.
Long Story short, my biggest issue was the rusty tank, but now I got a solution because of your Video, thanks a lot man 👍💪😊
Glad you found it helpful!
I really respect the way you make so many tools and items you need!!! You work with what you have. Broken side plate, fiberglass work. Love it!!!! New subscriber!!!!
🤘🤘
Hi
Tried your petrol tank cleaning using electrolysis and its worked great. I did a few checks and found that as the electrode gets dirty the current flow dropped for 10amps down to 0.5amps after 6 hour. I clean the electrode back to clean metal and the current flow was back up to 10+ amps. after two sessions the tank is looking good. I'm giving the tank one more session to remove some small spots. The tank is off a 1964 Honda CB77 which still had petrol in the from 1976 when it was last registered is Michigan USA. Its now in Scotland UK undergoing a complete refurbishment. So thankyou for the information.
Glad it worked well for you! The current drop and then picking back up after cleaning sounds just right.
I was always using electrolysis to clean things that I found with metal detector. Never thought to use it on a tank 😄 Great idea!
I'm currently cleaning a fiat ducato campervan fuel tank with this process , same as you I've only ever cleaned metal detecting finds with this process
Excellent beautiful Explanation good service to Humanity and believers
I once cleaned a tank using BBs. Couple hands full, wrapped in a sleeping bag taped up and threw it in the clothes drier. I’m about to undertake a French moped whose tank is part of the frame. This seems more practical. Thanks for the lesson.
Brilliant !!🤓
@@davepete8643 Clothes dryer. That's a great idea!
I've got my 76 CB750 tank up on the bench "cooking" right now. Hoping for good results. Rust in the tank left me stranded as you and the group rode by to your openhouse! Dont want a repeat of that. Got it on a motorcycle battery and a 10 amp car charger. See how that combo works.
Glad to see it work, when I tried it I had no access to hot water for the initial mix. Didn't work very well. I had luck saving 3 tanks with white vinegar, though. I will try it again.
Hot does indeed help. Ive used Vinegar on other tanks but again its more expensive and must be neutralized so I try not to
I think I'm going to give it a try. I'm going to step it up a notch see if this will work. My situation is I have an rd350 motor with a seized crank because it's rusted not because it ran low on oil for anything and the Pistons are awesome so I'm going to dip the whole thing in some water and see if I can use that electrolysis on Breaking Free these parts. Thank you for sharing
Thanks so much. You made this easy for me! Just finished my first CB 125s tank and it’s rust free inside.
Happy to hear that!!
I’m going a 1978 Honda CB125S
Great Video! I kinda forgot how easy this was, and I'm working on an old 1983 Suzuki 1100G and for sure I will do this, Thank You so much. That tank came off one of the very best over-all Bikes to ride, and work on, no time was ever wasted in the saddle, riding a CB!
Absolutely a great bike. I ride my 750 every chance I get and it makes me smile continuously
Thank you so much for the detailed process. I’ve been wanting to try this
Glad you found it informative. Give it a shot as its easy and cheap
Thanks for the video! For what it's worth, right after you rinse and blot the tank, a quart of 2-stroke gas/oil mix at 25:1 ratio, using fresh ETHANOL gas is an outstanding way to clean/oil and de-moisturize the tank. The gas and oil seal up the fresh metal and stop the rust while the ethanol in the fuel absorbs any remaining moisture. Shake it around for a few minutes to no more than an hour, then get it out. It will leave a very thin oil film and you are good to go.
At that point, I always run the mix through a filter and dump it in my old truck. It doesn't do anything but lubricate my fuel pump a little and you aren't wasting fuel or polluting unnecessarily. No, it doesn't smell or anything like that. Just a good way to use it up.
Also did this same process and after I coated inside with Redcoats 5 yrs ago still perfect
Good video with excellent technique.....this should help a lot of guys. Thanks! I used RustBuster (trademark), small gravel and sand. When I was done shaking and rinsing with gas/diesel the tank looked polished inside.
Glad you enjoyed. I also have a video using gravel as well as vinegar to show multiple options. Next I'll make a video using the works
Fogging oil is great to use with engines. It's used a lot and outboard and inboard motors on boats. When you winterize you can bring it through the throttle body or pull each plug and squeeze some of it into the cylinders being careful not to overdo it.
I really loved your technique with using the old cap to hold your bar. I thought it was genius to make sure to cut holes into it. It definitely builds up gas.
I enjoyed watching this so I made sure to give you a thumbs up and hit the subscribe button. Whenever I watch something and I like it I always want you make sure to subscribe and like. I figure that's the least I can do since you took your time to do all of this and share some knowledge. Looking forward to watching more of your videos.
I appreciate it David and am glad the video provided solid info
Absolutelly fantastic, very informative, Thanks very much for sharing, I can use this process to clean out a harley that been sittings for years, Now i feel confident it can be brought back to life with a clean gas tank and gas, AGAIN, thanks very much for sharing your knowledge,
Happy you found it helpful! Thank you!
Not sure if mentioned (may have missed it) but this process does give off a nasty gas, so you should do this in a very well ventilated location or outside. Also, I found doing this over several days the best, clean the anode several times a day as it impacts the battery charger effectiveness if not.
In some UA-cam videos you actually see somebody using one of those long cigarette lighters and they they pointed towards the bubbles and you watch them pop and give off a little bit of flame.
It is very dangerous to do that. Most of the videos do it outside but there are some that do it right in their garage.
Leave it to Americans for whining that's why Great American Prophet Donal J Chump said that Putin is a genius
@@donniebunkerboi9975 wow, brain damage AND TDS, you poor soul.
it's because electrolysis generates also hydrogen gas from decomposing the water, hydrogen is VERY dangerous as it can get on fire extremely easily, that's also why when ou jump start a car with a dead battery, the negative cable from the donor battery should be attached to the car's frame and not straigh to the negative side of the dead battery
@@donniebunkerboi9975 you're an idiot.
Did this on my Ariel Leader tank as it is in the frame and hard to remove. Worked a treat. Wonder if reversing the polarity and using a zinc plate would give it a coating to slow down flash rusting
Methylated spirits is really good for removing moisture from tanks. It joins with the water, then you drain it, then adding some gasoline, will mix with the remaining meths. Perhaps introducing citric acid water after the electrolysis to make iron citrate which is a protective layer, would stop the flash rusting, iron oxide because both can’t be there at the same time.
IPA may be better as it does the same but isn't as oily as Meths
Acetone is also a drying agent
Everytime l watch your channel l learn something new. That's why I watch.
Thats what I like to hear! 🤘
Methylated Spirits (Metho) will absorb any water instead of having to dry the tank out with heat gun.
Metho mixes with water and once you pour it out you can use it again or burn it in an Alcohol burner or Metho stove.
You can also use pre mix two stroke oil to coat the inside of the tanks - once you ready to fill then drain any excess as a bit of 2 stroke in the fuel even on a four stroke will have negligible effect on the plugs and cylinder of the 4 stroke.
The residual oil on the inside possibly only resulting ratio something like 100 :1 once the fuel mixes with the oil.
No issue in the burn and possibly not even any smoke
Thanks for the break down on the process. I'm getting ready to do this to my generator gas tank. I'll probably use WD instead of fogging oil. Thanks for the upload
Glad you found it helpful!
Thanks for the detailed and clearly presented tutorial! I had tried electrolysis on a tank years ago and wasn’t impressed. I see now I probably just didn’t give it enough time.
Im glad you found it helpful!
Well presented thanks for making it look so achievable I’m certainly going to give it a go.
🤘🤘
@@BrickHouseBuildsif I repeat what you did and add the fogging oil to store it for some time, do I need to remove the oil before I fill it with gasoline?
@@BlackWaax It wouldn't hurt to slosh some 2 stroke fuel to clean the fogging oil before use
Thanks for the informative video BJ. I’ve always wanted to do this but my tanks have never been in as good of shape as that one. Mine typically look like absolute crap lol
Give it a shot anyway as you have nothing to lose here. This doesn't remove metal so a safer thing to try
Man, I learn a head-full of knowledge watching your channel!!!! I can feel myself getting smarter!!!
🤘🤘 thats my goal!
+1 Heat!
Excellent demonstration and clear, useful explanations, amigo.
I want to derust a baffled tank with electrolysis. Any idea if the line-of-sight effect will reach behind the baffles?
Also: It's nice to see the Pinchy-Grabby in action. My grandfather invented that!
The baffles aren't designed to be liquid proof but rather slow the sloshing of the fuel as the vehicle moves. Filling it up to the brim will make it a non issue
Great video and really helpful i was looking at other sites to see which one looks the best, but this is the one I like, what i liked about the video was there was no bullshit and making out that it was so easy like other videos, it was nicely explained, so here I go and try it, knowing my luck I'll probably drop the tank, but thankyou for your video.
@@georgemacdonald5282 🙏🙏
Was going to suggest cleaning up the anode a little to create some bare metal on it, but it turned out it still did the job just fine.
Something I've used in the past to clean items you can't get a brush into is Shell Grit from pet stores. It works as an abrasive as you shake around with water, rather than use a chain like you said. Would obviously have to be confident you got it all rinsed out though and don't know if you'd be happy to use on a tank.
when I do metal gas tank sometimes I'll use 2-stroke oil to coat the tank when finished if it's going to set awhile before use
That was awesome man. I appreciate the tie you took to make this video and sharing your knowledge.
I am surprised how well 12v did to help the electrolysis process. I will definitely keep this idea in mind.
Thank you.
Thank ya Tony! Glad you found it helpful
I have a 71 yamaha sc3 tank to do. Great information
Great video, going to use this method on a pair of HD split tanks , cheers man from Portugal!
Thanks! Should work well for ya
Great video and yes this is the ONLY way to deduct a tank. Reverse the processes current and use a heavily galvanized cathode to cover the bare, interior, now clean tank with resulting black zinc oxide to prevent rerusting.
What is a "heavily galvanized" cathode? Where can I find that?!
@@XwpisONOMA I use large galvanized construction bolts from the hardware store
@@XwpisONOMA Hot dipped galvanized has a heavy zinc coating, electrogalvanized has a very thin coating. Hot dipped galvanized parts are rough, electrogalvanized parts are smooth.
This is the best presentation of doing this I've found on 'Tube. Everything I needed to save my old GS tank. Many thanks, Bro, I'm subscribed 👍
Glad you liked it! Thank you
I've actually been meaning to do this to my tank. This helps me figure out exactly what I need to do. Thanks BJ
Happy the video is helpful!
After the treatment, what about some small bbs in the tanks to get any material left.
@@stankrieger3598 use a length of linked chain or a home made necklace from some 8mm - 13mm nuts & heavy fishing line, then simply pull the lot out after use, I found some ball bearings were always pesky varmints to remove.
Look like great use for all the crap car charges ppl keep giving me😊
Thank for the explanation
Much appreciated😊
Great job!
I watched this back when you first posted it but found it beneficial to review it again.
AAA +++👍👍👍
Awesome!
Ok I have one question....if like me you do your work on your bikes in the winter time, what is an alternative to the Ph up that is available in the winter?
Sodium carbonate in general. Baking soda and such has it. Or just orde a bag online
What u build ur nanoed from? Is it ok to use welding rod for better charge? New to tank cleaning i. usually, a sand blast or bead blasting this method of yours much easier and cheaper
Just simple raw steel nothing fancy
I have a 71 Honda tank that was worse and I broke up the rust with a quarter inch cable that I unbraided at one end and put it in a drill to loosen up the rest and I been trying rust remover .I am going to try your method to finish it up. Thank you.
a
t
Definitely many methods out there
Getting ready to start on my CB900, this is very useful information. Well done and thank you
Thank ya! Glad you found it helpful
Nicely demonstrated. What a difference to the tank, nice one. Thanks from george
Happy you found it helpful George!
Did this to a Yamaha tank years ago. When doing the final rinses I added a handful of small gravel into the tank. The gravel acted as an "abrasive" knocking off remaining rust. Interior of the tank was shiny steel when done
Yeah fishtank gravel does well. Just a pain to get out
You just encouraged me to try this. I went the vinegar route and it worked well, but I still have some bright orange looking rust in low areas. I plan on doing this soon. Quick question. You had like jumper clamps with connectors on that battery, what would those be called if I were go to a local hardware or automotive shop to buy them? Thanks again bro. Dude I wish you were closer to me in Oklahoma.
I made those jumpers using cable lugs but you could definitely use a battery terminal if possible.
awww I see said the blind man. thanks bro.@@BrickHouseBuilds
Gracias amigo por tu tiempo q Dios Jesús y Francisco t bendigan a vos y a tus seres qeridos !
Thank you
Awesome. I’m trying it. I used BB’s last time and shaking, ugh.
I usually flush water remnants out using alcohol. No heat gun drying needed.,
Alcohol is a better move for sure
Hot water helps to dissolve the electrolyte. This is a great way to do this.I always used a very large solder iron to patch any holes before using Cleaning Vinegar to get rid of rust.Patch all holes.Plug all holes.Fill with Cleaning Vinegar.Let sit for a couple of days.That usually does the trick. I follow with a tank liner.Damond Redcoat is the best I have used. Good luck!!
I've used vinegar as well but don't like the acidity and eating metal. It has its place for sure. I've never seen a redkote stick so my go to is por15 or caswells
Electrolysis is an amazing process. I use it to clean cast iron but I like seeing how you use it. My tank holds 35 gallons so I don't change the solution very often. Since I am mixing a lot of solution I use a paint mixer on a variable speed drill to prevent clumping. Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda mixed at 1 1/2 tablespoons per gallon is what I use. More than 2 tablespoons per gallon can be hard on the battery charger. Stainless Steel anodes are much easier to clean than carbon steel. I've lined my tank with SS Sheetmetal. There is controversy about using stainless in electrolysis but it's been safe for me. I use a rolling 200 amp battery charger. Around 38 amps is usually what the machine puts out. In my case when the piece hangs inside the tank I hang it inside a pillowcase to catch most of the crud. This keeps the tank cleaner longer. I made the mistake of trying to clean aluminum in there, don't do that. lol
Great info!
Stainless steel anodes release highly carcinogenic hexavalent chromium ions.
You are better off using carbon arc gouging electrodes for the anode. Carbon doesn't get consumed and doesn't release toxic ions
@@paulg3336 I'm certainly not a chemist but this is the way I've used the tank. We are empty nesters so there are unused bathrooms. (Much to my wife's delight) I set the tank up in one of the tubs along with a lye tank. My charger is a Schumacher 1565 that usually delivers 38 amps depending on the surface area of the pieces. My tank is a 55 gallon plastic pickle barrel cut to hold 35 gallons and it is 25" tall. I have two SS sheet metal anodes that measure 35"X16" lining the inside. I clean for two estate sale companies plus myself so it has operated 24/7 for days at a time. I've had things to spark over the tank with no BOOM. I've used the tank in this location for over a year. This is my exact set up and I'm not advocating that everyone should do this but it works for me. If we have company I can pull the shower curtain and it all goes away.
Any thing acidic will eat away at the good metal + rust. This process will only attack the rust. I use 1/2 cup of washing soda to 5 gallons of water. All of the waste water from doing this is good to dump on lawn or garden, is a good fertilizer and is safe. I throughly dry my tanks also with a little alcohol to help in drying. Then a little bit of 2 stroke oil, or like video, fogging oil. Then I only run only alcohol free gas in it. Been doing this for fifty years and lots of tanks. I also do use any liners in my works.
@@robertjeffries1758 Same way with cast iron Robert. Some people use 50% white vinegar and 50% water to scrub rust off cast iron but if the metal is pitted the vinegar will attack the pits making them worse. You never want to leave vinegar on a piece longer than 30 minutes. I've had people tell me they let cast iron soak in full strength vinegar for days. I want to say "well that's what they look like". Electrolysis won't make things worse no matter how long ya leave it in. This has been my experience anyway. I bought some really bad pieces to experiment with. You'll be told everything and some people really shouldn't be talking. I didn't know anything about it in the beginning and needed to learn, I still learn today.
Great video, thanks for sharing. Is it possible to bypass the battery and just use a charger? Thanks
Do what you wish
My chemistry class was 50 years ago but I have one concern with this, what about the gas being released during the electrolysis? Hydrogen is lighter than air and would rise but could possibly pool especially at the cap. Good ventilation or doing this outdoors would seem to be best. Good video, very clear and easy. I have 2 tanks I need to get the rust out of. Thanks.
Check out my pinned comment as I have a video linked that shows what it takes to ignite. There is no danger here
Great Video much to learn Your video shows how easy it is .
Definitely an easy hands-off process. Set it and work on other stuff while it does its thing
This is brilliant. Beats filling with washers & nuts then having to shake.
Thats still a good move but yes this is the "easy" way to get some good results for sure
Brillante idea! Felicitaciones por el trabajo y por el video muy bien explicado, tengo taller mecánico (garaje) veré de implementar este Sistema.
Con respecto del aceite que pones para mantenerlo que no oxide mientras no esta en uso, quizás sea mas practico agregarle 1/2 Ltrs de gasoil y batirlo! Pues el diesel es un aceite muy fino, antes de ponerlo a trabajar le enjuagar con Nafta y listo, que te parece?
Saludos desde Uruguay Sud America
Bye
Hugo.
Glad you liked it. The fogging oil is designed to cling and coat metal for extended periods of time which is why I used it. I don't want a separate container for diesel fuel as that smells and takes up space which I don't have a lot of.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Ok, surely the oil you used must be more effective! In my workshop (Garage) I have had to clean through a chemical process (acids and neutralizers for the acid that cleans) motorcycle tanks as well as car tanks, the latter are more or less 60 liters, which is why I came up with diesel .
Well, congratulations again and thanks for sharing, as it is very useful to have alternatives for the same job.
PS, I am watching the video of the Benelli 756, in my workshop we rebuilt a Benelli 254 (250cc 4 cylinders from the same era)
Best regards
Great to see an excellently filmed and intelligently presented informative instructional video👍 I've previously used a weak hydrofluoric acid mixture (no electrolysis) with pleasing results but for a just about every reason you can think of, this is clearly a better way of doing the job. I do quite a few tanks so you've saved me time and effort and it'll be cheaper and less hazardous as well! I wonder if anything can be gained from using different material sacrificial anodes? Thanks for an excellent video, I'm subscribed 👍
Well thank ya! As far as anode material just shoot for simple here. Make sure it's not plated.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Cheers from Australia! 😁
excuse you are the best so far how you explain and your présentation. any body can onderstand merci beaucoup
Thanks so much 🙏
That tank colour combo is awesome....nice job
Thank ya, very simple process
Really neato video. Very cool. I've got a few old Jerry cans to try this out on, and then I might try this on an old Radian I've got. Thanks.
Excellent presentation! Does the little bit of superficial rust left over not matter because the internal metal surface unpainted will always have some degree of rust anyway? Good reason to keep tank full :).
In the grand scheme it doesn't matter but get all that you can out. Always run a filter as those small particles can get into jets. My issue was using a slower process to dry via the blow dryer. Some alcohol would have helped to get the water out and then quickly get some oil on the metal
This just randomly popped up in my feed (at 1:30am😂) and i did NOT expect it to work that good. I don't really work on old bikes but i can certainly think of some other applications i wanna try it on. Thanks man👍
Well glad it showed up and appreciate you checking it out. This rust removal process can be used in endless ways so keep the idea in your back pocket for when you need it.
I have to say this seems much better then what I have done to clean tanks, I am going to try this instead . A much simpler and cheaper option and I have a perfect candidate I just got to work on an old honda helix . Thanks for the video
Its not the only method but I like this the best personally
Fantastic video my friend. I’m just about to clean a tank from an old ZZR1100. Definitely going to give this a try. ✌️👍👍
It's a great process. Glad you found it helpful
@@BrickHouseBuilds I’m looking forward to giving it a go
This is awesome instructions. I'll use to clean up a 1984 Honda Z-50 Tank. Anxious to get started!! What are you using for the sacrificial rod Is it aluminum or zinc? Thanks!!
Just regular steel. Nothing fancy
I did some Mercedes seat spring beds this way years ago - very thorough! Any particular reason why you don't just use vinegar? I have had good luck with vinegar, rinse and then add Ospho to convert any remaining rust -seems to work good.
1 - I just don't like using acids
2 - Acids require more steps
3 - more expensive
4 - I have consistent results with this method
Great video, learned some new things, thanks!
🤘🤘
Nice job, I like to do a soke with CLR before I do my final wash.
Haven't tried CLR for this use actually
Might be a silly question here but since you connected the battery to the anode and the connection point of the battery are on the positive and negative terminals of the battery but then you took a charger and plugged it into the wall and connected it to the same part of the battery isn't that the equivalent of just plugging it directly into the wall or plugging it directly into the battery charger. At the point of connection from the charger to the cable that's connected to the positive terminal and connected to the anode
@AdrianTam-tj9qv many people seem to question this. I simply have a low amp charger so I just run my battery and try to trickle charge it as it gets used. Has worked for me for years but feel free to do it how you want
you deserve a A+
🤘🤘
Science!!!!!! Great job man!!
Yes sir and thank ya much!
Great video man. I just did this to an old car gas tank, worked awesome!
Its a handy method for sure!
Thak you so much for the video. I have a question regarding the use of fogging oil. When the engine is eventually ready to be run, is it just a matter of filling up the tank with gas and away we go? Or does the fogging oil need to be removed first? My bike is a 2003 r6 with electroic fuel injection.
@jack_attack_1 Glad you enjoyed. As for the fogging oil it will not have any negative effect. The fuel will dilute it
@jack_attack_1 you could also use 2stroke mix to help coat the tank
Thanks again for your help. Going to do the whole procedure this weekend.
thank you for posting. have you measured the actual current flowing during electrolysis ? you might be able to dispense w/ the batt & just hook the charger leads to the tank & anode [zinc ?].
No, I hook the battery up as shown and just remove rust. It works great for me so I don't feel a need to get more specific
In the same way you remove rust, can you also plate the tank with copper, zinc or any other non rusting metal?
Yes, the tank can be electro-galvanized immediately after rust removal, but the problem is usually that the tank starts to surface rust before electro-galvanizing (as soon as it dries). In this case, the zinc no longer adheres. Before electro-galvanizing, it would be good to acid-treat the tank with phosphoric acid, which leaves a phosphate coating that does not rust and to which the zinc adheres well, if you still want to galvanize the tank.
I do not recommend hydrochloric acid in this context because it would need to be passivated (phosphoric acid works better in this case, especially if you still want to galvanize the tank).
Thank you so much for the video! I am going through the process as I type cleaning my 56 year old Honda Scrambler tank. I'm using a six amp charger hooked directly and already have debris after 2 hours. Surprised how warm the tank is staying. I'm using in my detached garage as its 8 degrees outside and snowing. Thanks again!
Glad you found it helpful!
Did you have a step by step on how to remove dents from a tank? I remember seeing a vid where you put a tube into a tank and inflated it but I cannot seem find it again.
For small dents I have no such video. The tube method is in my cb750 playlist in the "jobs to make it better"
@@BrickHouseBuilds thanks bud I will look for it. Love your vids!
So, a very well done video on removing rust and leaving bare steel afterwords. Fogging Oil will put an oil barrier between the Oxygen in the air and the steel -- a good thing.
THAT removes the rust and puts a temporary oil barrier to stop or at least stop any further surface rust --- until you put gasoline into the tank. Good-by to the oil which now dissolves into the gasoline and now that raw steel surface starts (through the Ethanol and the condensed water vapor going into that Ethanol) to rust all over again.
What do you use to seal that raw steel surface inside the tank?
The tank is not going to immediately rust when you are low on fuel. This rusted to the point you see after 40 years so I'm good. I didn't line the tank as there may be a change id repair the dings and dents down the road meaning the liner would be ruined
Reverse the anode/cathode with zinc galvanized bolts to zinc line the tank.
Great video! I've found that electrolysis is the best way to clean lots of the rusty parts of cars I restore.
It's definitely been my go-to process
Followed this exactly, works better than I thought it would!!!
Been doing it for years. Many seem to doubt it but as you now know it works well!
Would a couple of litres of diesel mixed around and then tipped out work to keep surface rust from accumulating after cleaning?
Im sure it probably could
Nice job
Thank ya sir!
Like this video, you make it look so simple, gonna be my go to reference vid, thanks for sharing 😃👍
If you have a fuel gauge sending unit in the tank, I suppose you need to remove it? Copper and nichrome wire might not do well....or have you tried it in the past? If I take sending unit out, I have a big hole in the bottom to seal before I can do this.
Definitely remove that
Just want to throw this in for whatever it's worth, I learned from an old timer here on UA-cam that does a lot of rust removal with electrolysis to use carbon rods or plates instead of metal or steel for the anode, it's a much cleaner process this way and all that gunk doesn't build up and stick to it like it does metal and you don't get as much gunky muck in the electrolysis tank either. I've used this method a couple of times so far and it works like a charm. I got a couple of small carbon plates off of Ebay, they sell them just for this purpose and yes, they're more expensive than just using steel or metal but I think it's worth it, they last a long time over multiple uses and you can get many different sizes depending on what you need, give it a try you'll be surprised.
Also, he said that the black coating that happens on the part that you're removing rust from to keep it on there and don't clean it off right away if you're not going to be putting a finish on it for awhile, evidently it functions as a rust barrier until you're ready to finish it. I've personally never done this because I've always just finished the peice or part as soon as I get it cleaned up but throwing it out there in case you ever want or need to leave a part for awhile before you're able to finish it.
The black coating is ferrous oxide which is a good coat to prevent rust (ferric oxide is rust, ferrOUS oxide is black)
Nice job. Thanks for the explanation. I was also going to ask if you have used a tank sealer but Edward Kipp beat me to it.
Glad you found it helpful. I've done many sealers but this is not the right moment for one.
Hi there. What’s the anode made of? I watched several other videos that says NO to stainless steel.
@allahdaniel212 just regular un coated steel. As basic as it gets