heh - see the book on wheelpro.co.uk/ instead - this video is rubbish - lacing one side of the wheel first and then the other, will only make it a mess - you have to start off with half of one side and then the other, and then the other, and then the other…
I taught myself spoke lacing, my technique is quite different but results are the same. Though I never paid any attention to logos or even valve holes whatsoever (but I never had a problem with any pump, even if there's a crossing underneath). Only with the very old hubs it can be hard to reach the oil fitting if you mess up. :)
So far the best tutorial I have watched. The explanation is very detailed and logical. I have watched many tutorials, only this one gives me the confidence to diy. Thumbs up!
Back in the day, I was a starving USCF Cat 3 whose greatest pleasure (aside from riding and racing) was building wheels for fun and profit! There is a magic to placing that first magic spoke until the weaving "locks into place" and ends up with no wobbles or hops on the trying stand! You are also regarded as a cycling God on a team ride if you true that cute little Cat 4's wheel on her bike using the brakes as calipers!
Amazingly, this video actually helped me build my own wheel, despite the fact that i got lost about halfway through(I`m not a native speaker) but i did manage to complete the wheel! I am very grateful. I have a book and tried other tutorials, but this is the only one that i could follow. Now wheelbuilding looks just a bit less like rocket science.
I've literally referenced this video EVERYTIME I build a set of wheels!!! And I've built probably 7 or 8 wheels in the past 10 years. Mainly because I like lefty forks and I like colored anodized spoke nipples which makes the bike look way higher quality with the custom details. And the price of a built wheels is ridiculous and can be built for way less and be way more custom! And you can brag that you built them by HAND
Thanks for explaining what 3 cross is . I needed to know to calculate spoke length.Also I have seen some You Tube videos and they don’t mention about copying a similar rim which is what I am going to do to make the job easier.
Insteresting. Good info. However: when doing step 3, since your are lacing the wheel from scratch,that is when inserting the second batch of spokes (16) after step 1 and 2 (inserting and attaching first 16 spokes), you should also insert the 32 spokes on the opposite side of the hub. Otherwise, the third batch of 32 spokes will be difficult to navigate through the gaps in the first lacing of spokes. You can do it, but will have to bend and bend and bend!
mate thanks a bunch! save me about 30$ just for the cost of doing this. im lacing the front n the rear wheels tho, had successfully followed ur instructions. TY again! =)
Your wheel will work and hold up, it's just that I was taught that the drive spokes (the ones pulling at the rim under force) should always overlap the non drive spokes (the ones pushing under force). This is because it will pose less of a risk of the R. Derr. rubbing against (and perhaps being torn off by) the spokes when under stress in your easiest gear (where the R.Derr. Cage is mm.'s from the spokes).
Regarding rotating the hub - why do you rotate the hub counter-clockwise instead of clockwise? (assuming the drive side is on top). I guess you'd also have to start on the other side of the valve hole as well.
Ok thanks I did the same but on the other side I may did something wrong, when I started the other side the spokes for 4th round didnt go through the other spokes so I had to loosen every 4th spoke beside that one that should be placed. How did you manage that?
You're videos are awesome! I actually rebuilt my rear wheel on my 1970's Trek with the help of your original video tutorial on lacing. I was wondering... do you think you could post a tutorial on different lacing patterns? Or point me in the direction of a good text tutorial cuz all the ones I have found are way over my head. Again thanks for all the great tutorials.
what's the shortest handle bars you can get? I basically want just some stubs that I can attach brakes and grips to but keep my hands as close together as possible. I'm making a velocycle so I need to keep the bars as short as possible to make the body design easier. I'm using a chopper and if I fit short bars level with the headset I can put my self in a flatter more aerodynamic position and bring my arms/hands in. I'm here because the bike I'm using the bearing has chewed up the front hub so it needs to be replaced and the wheel isn't a standard size (somewhere around 12-16 inches) so it's much cheaper to just replace the hub.
+micheals1992 Like This sfcitizen.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/IMG_9438-copy.jpg? You can just buy a pipe cutter form a hardware store and cut down some old handlebars.
I am about to re-build a wheel, and have read and watched few videos, but one question remains. How you know where to place the first spoke. I mean, if I put the first key spoke in the hub, does it go directly on the right side of the valve hole, and do the spoke hole on the rim has to line up with the hole on the hub? As from picture, they are not lined up, but the spoke goes few holes away(on the hub) and it is no lined up with the hole on the rim. Hope you understand my question :) PS i am building a front wheel. What will be the difference, what makes it easier?
I was thinking radial, but twist sounds interesting. My main question though when it comes to different patterns is that, are there certain patterns that wouldn't be used for the rear wheel? Due to the load and the torque? Or are all the patterns just as strong as one another?
Hey Mike, I'm currently using your video to build a 32hole stans flow ex with a Hadley disc hub. After lacing it was obvious that some spokes seemed to have more slack than others all across the rim and every spoke was started with two or three turns. I even needed to use a feeder spoke for some. Will the wheel start to come together once I start to tighten the spokes? I triple checked the pattern and all seems good. thx
@flyingeagleone Sounds like you are referring to a radially-laced wheel which is often available on a front wheel - not a rear wheel. You'd need appropriate length spokes to accommodate such a pattern, but is entirely possible. Remember, the crossing of spokes promotes wheel rigidity and strength. Therefore, radial lacing will result in a lighter (shorter spoke length), weaker compared to a 2- or 3- cross wheel of similar design.
Hi TheBikeTube, and thanks for the video. Now a silly/crazy question, if I am may ask you; is it possible to undo what you show on your video and replace the hub for a wider one?, in other words, can I replace the entire Hub keeping the rest without compromising the wheel structure?
Yes, you can put a wider hub on the rim but because the hub flanges might be different and are further apart the spokes may not be the correct length anymore. You can measure how long they need to be and compare that with the length of the spokes you have. It may be a good idea to buy new stainless steel, double butted spokes with brass or aluminium nipples. Sheldon Browns webpage on wheelbuilding is very helpful.
Just one side comment. Given that you start with the inner spokes on the drive side and these will become the leading spokes, that implies that the trailing spokes will be outer spokes. There seem to be a preference to have them laced the other way around (outer, trailing and inner leading) for several reasons, such as potential issues when the chain would run over the cogs as a first example. Perhaps that is more critical for MTB wheels.
@Aleowiciuos What might have been confusing is that we started with the leading spokes first, instead of the trailing spokes. In the end the wheel ends up the same. Just because we didn't lace the trailing spokes first doesn't mean its wrong. It's personal preference.
@thebiketube, any insight on lacing 32h SS rear wheel? I am considering the Paul Components WORD rear hub that has wider flange spacing to build a dishless wheel.
ok all 36 spokes of mine are all the same size. Now I want to know if there is any way I can make the cassette side pretty much flush with the rim itself and the other side beveled out so to speak . when you look down on the rim when it is in it's vertical position as if your gonna roll it. you can see the cassette sticks out more than the other side I need the other side to stick outward a couple inches not the side w/ the cassette .. keep in mind all spokes are the same size
@Aleowiciuos I think you mean trailing and leading spokes. The trailing spokes run along the inside of the hub and are angled in the same direction as the rotation of the wheel. In the video these spokes do in fact overlap over the leading spokes, which you refer to as the "non-drive" spokes. So I'm not sure what you mean by that. So the ones "pulling" the rim do in fact overlap the ones "pushing the rim". Please check the video again.
innies first on both flanges followed by outies on both flanges - never grease the threads of stainless spokes and brass nipples because they may work lose on the non-drive side of a dished rear wheel.
All patterns are definitely not created equal. You definitely want to use some kind of cross pattern for the rear wheel since it gives the wheel more strength.
You should do both inter sets of spokes before you do the outer. If you do not, you will have to bend the spoke too much to position them. And you set the cross to the seam of the rim. not the valve hole. If the rim was drilled correctly the valve hole will be in the open. But you want the cross pattern to pull the seam together
Ditto. I've built a bunch of flawless wheels following "The Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt over a decade ago. I had to rebuild my PT wheel & forgot how to lace, so to save time I followed this video. What a mistake! It was such a PAIN lacing up, I tore it apart again & tried a 2nd time, no go. I finally dug up my book again and went, "yeah, that's how easy I remember it!" The 3rd time the wheel went together like knife through hot butter, like I remember it. I highly recommend folks don't follow these instructions to the letter, You'll build a wheel, but it'll be pain in the a** & equalizing tension won't be fun.
@Aleowiciuos If you would use this wheel for a downhill bike with discbrakes, it is correct like this, but I can't see any mounting holes for a rotor here.
I watch this video 3 times now, but have yet to see HOW to make sure the hub is precisely place in the middle (or center) of the wheel, because if it's off even just a little bit, it would cause a lot of adjustment back and forth later on, unless the person riding the bike wouldn't mind the up-and-down motion the entire trip to anywhere.
1. Put pull spokes on the inner flange drive side. First spoke goes next to the valve hole. 2. Put pull spokes on the inner flange non drive side. First spoke goes after the valve and after first drive side spoke. 3. Install push spokes on the outer flange drive side. Crossing is over-over-under. 4. Install push spokes on the outer flange non drive side. Crossing is over-over-under. 5. True the wheel with max 115 kgf tension on the drive side, tolerance between tension of different spokes on drive side +- 5% To make it easier to remember: - pull spokes go from the inside of the flange - two pull spokes are after the valve - else is obvious
For advanced users: - bend each spoke slightly at the neck while installing it in the flange - after seated hit the spoke with punch and a hammer to seat it better - put a drop of oil on the neck of each spoke - put a drop of oil on contact part with the rim of each nipple - put some oil on the thread of the spoke, do not use loctite (but be sure to have proper high tension on the drive side spokes so they don't unscrew over the time) - Squeeze hard parallel pairs of spokes after you trued the wheel and true it again
i laced up my wheel and the hub and spokes move around alot. and i tightened the nipples all the way down until no thread is showing and its still like that
Best spoke lacing tutorial I have watched. No graphics or cuts. Plainly explained and clearly described. Thank you!
I love the detail about the placement of the hub logo - really appreciate stuff like that.
heh - see the book on wheelpro.co.uk/ instead - this video is rubbish - lacing one side of the wheel first and then the other, will only make it a mess - you have to start off with half of one side and then the other, and then the other, and then the other…
How to lace a cuando 48 hole hub to a 36 hole rim on a 20 inch BMX back rim
I taught myself spoke lacing, my technique is quite different but results are the same. Though I never paid any attention to logos or even valve holes whatsoever (but I never had a problem with any pump, even if there's a crossing underneath). Only with the very old hubs it can be hard to reach the oil fitting if you mess up. :)
So far the best tutorial I have watched. The explanation is very detailed and logical. I have watched many tutorials, only this one gives me the confidence to diy. Thumbs up!
Back in the day, I was a starving USCF Cat 3 whose greatest pleasure (aside from riding and racing) was building wheels for fun and profit! There is a magic to placing that first magic spoke until the weaving "locks into place" and ends up with no wobbles or hops on the trying stand!
You are also regarded as a cycling God on a team ride if you true that cute little Cat 4's wheel on her bike using the brakes as calipers!
Amazingly, this video actually helped me build my own wheel, despite the fact that i got lost about halfway through(I`m not a native speaker) but i did manage to complete the wheel! I am very grateful. I have a book and tried other tutorials, but this is the only one that i could follow. Now wheelbuilding looks just a bit less like rocket science.
Thank you sir, I finally did it for about 30 minutes. Thanks to your tutorial
I've literally referenced this video EVERYTIME I build a set of wheels!!! And I've built probably 7 or 8 wheels in the past 10 years. Mainly because I like lefty forks and I like colored anodized spoke nipples which makes the bike look way higher quality with the custom details. And the price of a built wheels is ridiculous and can be built for way less and be way more custom! And you can brag that you built them by HAND
Thanks for sharing your mtb wheel lacing wisdom bro!
Best video! The other videos here on youtube lack so many details that are key to wheel building. But this guy got it down pretty good. :)
Thanks from Ukraine. It is your video helped me to collect the first wheel
I like it when you give me an toturial.....I can fix my bike again😀
Very well done tutorial! Thumbs up 👍
great stuff man got my front wheel laced up nicely. really appreciated tutorial :)
thank you so much.. under - under - over.. build a wheel become so easy👍😊
Great tutorial, used it on 36 spoke wheel and it is great, thank you for fine tutorial :D
feeder spoke trick saved my life with my b43's!
Thanks you guys this vid helped alot, my build came out pretty much perfect really only one hickup.
thanks.. it's the best video I've ever seen.
Really informative video! ☝️😎👍
Very informative! Thank you
Learned my first wheel from this guy. Sometimes, to get the wheel set you want, you have to build it yourself.
Thanks for explaining what 3 cross is . I needed to know to calculate spoke length.Also I have seen some You Tube videos and they don’t mention about copying a similar rim which is what I am going to do to make the job easier.
Insteresting. Good info.
However:
when doing step 3, since your are lacing the wheel from scratch,that is when inserting the second batch of spokes (16) after step 1 and 2 (inserting and attaching first 16 spokes), you should also insert the 32 spokes on the opposite side of the hub. Otherwise, the third batch of 32 spokes will be difficult to navigate through the gaps in the first lacing of spokes. You can do it, but will have to bend and bend and bend!
первое толковое видео, на тему. Спасибо, мужик!
mate thanks a bunch! save me about 30$ just for the cost of doing this. im lacing the front n the rear wheels tho, had successfully followed ur instructions. TY again! =)
I always lace innies-innies-outies-outies. Much less hassle.
Awesome tutorial good work lads
Excellent tutorial!!
Great guide, thanks !
Great tutorial thanks!
Woot! More BikeTube! So are you guys in the Bay Area? I'm across the bay from SF.
Excellent video. Cheers dude
Your wheel will work and hold up, it's just that I was taught that the drive spokes (the ones pulling at the rim under force) should always overlap the non drive spokes (the ones pushing under force). This is because it will pose less of a risk of the R. Derr. rubbing against (and perhaps being torn off by) the spokes when under stress in your easiest gear (where the R.Derr. Cage is mm.'s from the spokes).
Regarding rotating the hub - why do you rotate the hub counter-clockwise instead of clockwise? (assuming the drive side is on top). I guess you'd also have to start on the other side of the valve hole as well.
great video lads, helped a lot!!
Thank you i have sucssesfuly respoke a raer rim
Yes sir nice i like that idea good work for ruing wheel
Mavic open pro rims are nice. They build themselves.
this video has aged nicely
Ok thanks I did the same but on the other side I may did something wrong, when I started the other side the spokes for 4th round didnt go through the other spokes so I had to loosen every 4th spoke beside that one that should be placed. How did you manage that?
good explanation
Thanks Devine86! What are you looking for as far as different lacing patters? 4 cross, radial, or something wacky like twist lacing?
You're videos are awesome! I actually rebuilt my rear wheel on my 1970's Trek with the help of your original video tutorial on lacing. I was wondering... do you think you could post a tutorial on different lacing patterns? Or point me in the direction of a good text tutorial cuz all the ones I have found are way over my head. Again thanks for all the great tutorials.
This is great as far as it goes, but why stop half way through?
what's the shortest handle bars you can get? I basically want just some stubs that I can attach brakes and grips to but keep my hands as close together as possible. I'm making a velocycle so I need to keep the bars as short as possible to make the body design easier. I'm using a chopper and if I fit short bars level with the headset I can put my self in a flatter more aerodynamic position and bring my arms/hands in.
I'm here because the bike I'm using the bearing has chewed up the front hub so it needs to be replaced and the wheel isn't a standard size (somewhere around 12-16 inches) so it's much cheaper to just replace the hub.
+micheals1992 Like This sfcitizen.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/IMG_9438-copy.jpg?
You can just buy a pipe cutter form a hardware store and cut down some old handlebars.
I am about to re-build a wheel, and have read and watched few videos, but one question remains. How you know where to place the first spoke. I mean, if I put the first key spoke in the hub, does it go directly on the right side of the valve hole, and do the spoke hole on the rim has to line up with the hole on the hub? As from picture, they are not lined up, but the spoke goes few holes away(on the hub) and it is no lined up with the hole on the rim. Hope you understand my question :)
PS i am building a front wheel. What will be the difference, what makes it easier?
I was thinking radial, but twist sounds interesting. My main question though when it comes to different patterns is that, are there certain patterns that wouldn't be used for the rear wheel? Due to the load and the torque? Or are all the patterns just as strong as one another?
nice watch.. what kind is it?
Hey Mike, I'm currently using your video to build a 32hole stans flow ex with a Hadley disc hub. After lacing it was obvious that some spokes seemed to have more slack than others all across the rim and every spoke was started with two or three turns. I even needed to use a feeder spoke for some. Will the wheel start to come together once I start to tighten the spokes? I triple checked the pattern and all seems good. thx
@flyingeagleone Sounds like you are referring to a radially-laced wheel which is often available on a front wheel - not a rear wheel. You'd need appropriate length spokes to accommodate such a pattern, but is entirely possible. Remember, the crossing of spokes promotes wheel rigidity and strength. Therefore, radial lacing will result in a lighter (shorter spoke length), weaker compared to a 2- or 3- cross wheel of similar design.
Is there a standard for leading spokes(the one that points forward)? Either innies or outies???
Hi..does this pattern can also be done on a 28 spoke rim?
your lisp is sooo funny!
what kind of spokes are those? I like!
Hi TheBikeTube, and thanks for the video. Now a silly/crazy question, if I am may ask you; is it possible to undo what you show on your video and replace the hub for a wider one?, in other words, can I replace the entire Hub keeping the rest without compromising the wheel structure?
Yes, you can put a wider hub on the rim but because the hub flanges might be different and are further apart the spokes may not be the correct length anymore. You can measure how long they need to be and compare that with the length of the spokes you have. It may be a good idea to buy new stainless steel, double butted spokes with brass or aluminium nipples. Sheldon Browns webpage on wheelbuilding is very helpful.
if im looking down at the rim and hub, should the rim be between te flanges after i put the first set of 8 spokes in??
i have a rim and a rear hub. there are equal amounts of hole in the hub and wheel. How would I go about measuring which length spoke I will need?
Just one side comment. Given that you start with the inner spokes on the drive side and these will become the leading spokes, that implies that the trailing spokes will be outer spokes. There seem to be a preference to have them laced the other way around (outer, trailing and inner leading) for several reasons, such as potential issues when the chain would run over the cogs as a first example. Perhaps that is more critical for MTB wheels.
Otherwise, very well explained tutorial!!
@Aleowiciuos What might have been confusing is that we started with the leading spokes first, instead of the trailing spokes. In the end the wheel ends up the same. Just because we didn't lace the trailing spokes first doesn't mean its wrong. It's personal preference.
Under, Over, Done :)
I have a 20 inch rim with 68 spokes were do I start when lacing the spokes
Alfredo Manusco channel BMX wheel build
Wheelsmith spoke prep was used in the beginning of the wheelbuild. You can also use linseed oil. I would not recommend using locktite or grease.
@thebiketube, any insight on lacing 32h SS rear wheel? I am considering the Paul Components WORD rear hub that has wider flange spacing to build a dishless wheel.
What if my driver is on opposite side? Should I rotate to clockwise?
@mtgears If the rim has a label, the drive side is traditionally the side from which you can read it.
And its best to start from that side also!
ok all 36 spokes of mine are all the same size. Now I want to know if there is any way I can make the cassette side pretty much flush with the rim itself and the other side beveled out so to speak . when you look down on the rim when it is in it's vertical position as if your gonna roll it. you can see the cassette sticks out more than the other side I need the other side to stick outward a couple inches not the side w/ the cassette .. keep in mind all spokes are the same size
@Aleowiciuos I think you mean trailing and leading spokes. The trailing spokes run along the inside of the hub and are angled in the same direction as the rotation of the wheel. In the video these spokes do in fact overlap over the leading spokes, which you refer to as the "non-drive" spokes. So I'm not sure what you mean by that. So the ones "pulling" the rim do in fact overlap the ones "pushing the rim". Please check the video again.
innies first on both flanges followed by outies on both flanges - never grease the threads of stainless spokes and brass nipples because they may work lose on the non-drive side of a dished rear wheel.
Thank You
thank you very much
Nice Video, but.. If I have a 50" rim made by me with 60 holes for 60 spokes how can I lace it with 3cross or 5 cross prefereable.
Thanks. :D
awesome... thx
When did he cross the spokes
All patterns are definitely not created equal. You definitely want to use some kind of cross pattern for the rear wheel since it gives the wheel more strength.
Hey Thanks Aleowiciuos, could you explain where you think it went wrong. Thanks
are those spokes the titanium atomlabs?
I was just looking for any kind of pattern to try out other than the standard one.
Thank you very much. I
rainbow anodized titanium spokes?
is this the same way you make motorcross wheels?
Is it same for front wheel 32h?
You should do both inter sets of spokes before you do the outer. If you do not, you will have to bend the spoke too much to position them. And you set the cross to the seam of the rim. not the valve hole. If the rim was drilled correctly the valve hole will be in the open. But you want the cross pattern to pull the seam together
Ditto. I've built a bunch of flawless wheels following "The Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt over a decade ago. I had to rebuild my PT wheel & forgot how to lace, so to save time I followed this video. What a mistake! It was such a PAIN lacing up, I tore it apart again & tried a 2nd time, no go. I finally dug up my book again and went, "yeah, that's how easy I remember it!" The 3rd time the wheel went together like knife through hot butter, like I remember it. I highly recommend folks don't follow these instructions to the letter, You'll build a wheel, but it'll be pain in the a** & equalizing tension won't be fun.
WTF are you talking about?
Kurtis Cook He's talking about something that's probably beyond your comprehension.
Bro, could you do a 28 hole video please? Having trouble with front wheel, back one is fine through watching video.
@Aleowiciuos If you would use this wheel for a downhill bike with discbrakes, it is correct like this, but I can't see any mounting holes for a rotor here.
thaks man
I want straight spokes, not overlapping or "over" one another. It is doable?
Yes - Straight pull setup, requires special hubs and spokes.
I think he means radial lacing
I watch this video 3 times now, but have yet to see HOW to make sure the hub is precisely place in the middle (or center) of the wheel, because if it's off even just a little bit, it would cause a lot of adjustment back and forth later on, unless the person riding the bike wouldn't mind the up-and-down motion the entire trip to anywhere.
thebiketube:
Everyone else - except you - starts lacing from the outside of the flange. the first laced group of spokes goes inside of the flange.
Yep! confused me too!
What kind of spoke you use? Where to buy it share me the link
Does it matter if the old rim is left right but the new rim is straight??!?!?
As long as the ERD is the same, it won't matter enough to need new spokes.
how far should you screw in each nipple for that start????
1. Put pull spokes on the inner flange drive side. First spoke goes next to the valve hole.
2. Put pull spokes on the inner flange non drive side. First spoke goes after the valve and after first drive side spoke.
3. Install push spokes on the outer flange drive side. Crossing is over-over-under.
4. Install push spokes on the outer flange non drive side. Crossing is over-over-under.
5. True the wheel with max 115 kgf tension on the drive side, tolerance between tension of different spokes on drive side +- 5%
To make it easier to remember:
- pull spokes go from the inside of the flange
- two pull spokes are after the valve
- else is obvious
For advanced users:
- bend each spoke slightly at the neck while installing it in the flange
- after seated hit the spoke with punch and a hammer to seat it better
- put a drop of oil on the neck of each spoke
- put a drop of oil on contact part with the rim of each nipple
- put some oil on the thread of the spoke, do not use loctite (but be sure to have proper high tension on the drive side spokes so they don't unscrew over the time)
- Squeeze hard parallel pairs of spokes after you trued the wheel and true it again
i laced up my wheel and the hub and spokes move around alot. and i tightened the nipples all the way down until no thread is showing and its still like that
hi is possible to fit 32 hub in a 24 hub ?
sweet!!!
dude please help me...my hub is 32 holes but the rim is 36 holes ? what should i do?
Change ur hub to 36 or rim to 32 ..
this shit is the hardest thing to do on a bike
do u have any 70 spoke bicycle rims size 20 vidz
thanks
i am the wheel god