When he said that he was gonna take each nipple through that one hole, I started to wonder if the inside of the rim moved.... NOPE! When he pulled out the magnet, I instantly knew I never want to do this.
I do about 90% of wrenching on my bikes myself, and I hate TL tape with a passion. Been on these kind of rims for 3 years, replaced some spokes too -- never looking back. Just ordered a new pair of there Real-tubeless rims, carbon and asymmetric, of course. Sure, you have to lace them for an hour instead of 10 min. per wheel, but totally worth it.
@SianaGearz A main argument I've heard for tubeless is being able to run a relatively lower tire pressure without increasing the risk of a flat. This is especially good on mountain bikes riding on rough terrain when compliance affects the ride quality. 50psi tires over roots isn't fun. On a bike that will mainly be ridden on the road, tubes seems like the right choice to me due to its ease of serviceability and your decreased proximity to a bike shop than from a mountain (presumably)
Calvin, Thank you for giving some patience perspective on some very frustrating aspects of our jobs. There is a lot to be said for accepting how challenging and frustrating a job can be before starting it so when it turns frustrating, the frustration just becomes an accepted bit of patience in the end.
Suddenly, tubeless tape doesn't seem so bad! Also, if you use tape that is a few mm wider than your internal rim width, the tape will extend slightly up the wall of the rim on either side and is much less likely to be disturbed when installing/removing tires.
Wrong. If you use rim tape that matches your rim's internal rim width, it won't cover the entire width of the rim bed as the valley adds distance between two sides of the rim bed. The perfect width is always a little wider and it varies from rim to rim as different rims have different rim bed profiles.
Suggestion: tie a small feather to a long piece of dental floss and shove it in one of the spoke holes. Apply shop vac to the valve hole and vacuum the feather out. Then use the dental floss to pull the nipple back the other way.
I can totally see a micro-spoke where only the tip is magnetic would come through the hole much more easily... and some kind of a mini net to fish out the loose nipples: net can go through the hole and opens up inside the rim, catches the nipple and you just pull out... c'mon Park tool!
The fishing stud could be built with a magnet only at the tip and the rest non magnetic to make it more likely to hit the hole without the wiggling around so much.
The TPU tubes from Schawlbe, Tubolito, Perelli, etc. are just as light or lighter than sealant and a tubeless valve. If you're not concerned with running super low pressures and don't have thorns/cacti on your trails, they're a great option.
@@stephenkohler3472 I'm mostly a bike commuter, and my problem with tubeless has been that I have to pump them up about every other day because they go soft too quick. Pumping up tires used to e something I'd have to do every few weeks.
@@minuteman4199 generally if you dont get much flats tubeless only really makes sense on mountain bikes and sometimes gravel. if you are just commuting on paved roads id just get some puncture resistant tires.
@Minute Man Oh, yeah. Tubes all the way for that scenario. Continental has a big selection of commuter tires now. It's the "contact" series. Most have flat protection. Im planning on running the contact urbans on mine soon.
When I came across this problem on one of the road rims around 15 years ago I used brake cable that you feed through nipple hole and push it until it reaches valve hole, than you pull it out with thin nose pliers feed the nipple and the cable will guid it to the right place. I found it much faster than magnet.
Campagnolo having been making their wheels with "no spoke holes" for years. They provide a special steel screw that threads into the nipple and magnet.
This system is called MoMag and it was developed by Campagnolo a while ago. Only recently it got adopted by other rim manufacturers. Campagnolo's best kept secret.
Yeoleo rims also have an unpierced rim bed. They come with nipples preinstalled from the factory :) Combine with a straight pull hub and bladed spokes, that makes for a wheel that actually laces quicker than a traditional wheel with J-bend spokes. The spoke pattern is determined and fixed in place by the hub, so you can insert all spokes at once before lacing. The spokes can be freely rotated to thread in the nipples, so no need to losen the tape securing the nipples untill the wheel is fully laced. The flat surface of the bladed spokes makes them a little easier to turn...
Soon as they is a park tool for this Sealed Rim the better and while more time consuming just like all wheels one takes there time anyways and once done it will pay for itself in time saved in no need to replace the rim tape. Something magnetic that threads into the nipple that has a rounded end with that 🧲 park tool and a new small park tool for grabbing it in place will be great to see in the future
I have built a few wheels with this type of rim and used exactly the same technique. It is much easier with straight pull spokes, but still doable with J bend. That clothespin hack is genius. My big fat fingers have a hard time manipulating the nipple to get it started. Definitely going to try that next time.
Tip also use washers because you sre buying expensive rim why risk fucking it up. Actually those crapafectures should come to senese and start using steel for nipples.
Could they add some non-structural material to the interior near the valve hole so loose nipples funnel out easier instead of getting caught on the side like I assume happens?
Why not make it a star-like tool (for turning) that can both clam down where it splits in two, and do the magnet operation? Bonus for making the insertion hole parabolic so the spoke is guided into the nipple. Has to be slightly concave to account for the bend in the rim. Maybe rims like this exist in 16" size?
To anyone that is interested, including you, Calvin, I have been building tapeless rims since last fall, and have found several tricks/tips to make the process easier, but it still is a time consuming process. It is really nice when done and many times the tire holds air without using any sealant at all, but still add it for puncture healing. Look forward to hearing from anyone interested.
I also build tapeless in a style not dissimilar to Calvin. I use nylon sewing thread tied to a shorter length of spoke. Drop it in the spoke hole and draw it out of the valve hole with the magnet. Screw on the nipple and washer and pull the thread through. Rather than the modified peg, I found a bag of miniature pegs at a craft store and now put all the nipples in first held in place with the mini pegs. Start opposite the valve hole and work back so you're not installing nipples over the top of existing ones.
I'm curious what you charge to build a set compared to the regular rim? I can't see many people being too happy when you charge 3x the price of building a normal wheel, well at least that's what I'd be charging for doing it and the amount of time it'd take.
@@MountainBikeBarbados Hi MBB, I build the wheels for a friend who has his own business and he does all of the business dealings. Im fairly confident that the charge isn't what it could be but if you're interested I can give you his name and number. I know at one point we were building and selling carbon fiber, aero, gravel bike wheels for a price that was extremely reasonable
I really hope these start becoming more commonplace on prebuilt wheels, especially mountain bike ones. Tubeless is nice, but the rim tape is the absolute worst part of the whole system.
I just started out as a bike tech at my shop and in a month I have sky rocketed my knowledge because of BBB-4 and park tool videos. I rather watch park tool videos than like tv shows 🤣
Swapping rims on Campag or Fulcrum wheels with these sort of rims (let alone those horrible Mavic 'FORE' drilled rims that Calvin coyly avoids mentioning) with aluminium spokes & nipples with bucketloads of threadlocker on them is the most frustrating & demoralising job in the bike shop world IMHO. Often the nipples are seized onto the spokes (& into the rim threading on Mavic rims) via years of road goop and, and you end up replacing half (or more) of the spokes in the wheel, because no matter how carefully you hold them, they wind up and snap as you try to undo the nipple. Then you have to put the little magnetic thing in the oversize nipples, drop and lose it a couple of times, and drag the nipples round the rim cavity, one by one: classic Italian arse-backwards engineering. The cost of the spokes (and the fact the freehub bearings are probably toast anyway) make for a wheelset that is very uneconomical to repair. OTOH, I have my Chris King Classic rim brake hubs with DT Competition spokes that I have laced 3 pairs of rims onto (after the old ones wore out), the last being tubeless compatible) and have never broken a spoke on them.
Clothespin is silly, there are many types of small locking clamps (for instance common forceps) available that are far more convenient and professional. Use the damned magnet to get the lost parts out, wtf. And how about a BRAND NAME??
I built my first bike at the end of 2022. I decided to also lace my first own custom wheels by Light Bicycles with no access spoke holes. Despite it being a 24 hole, I probably laced both wheels in about 6 hours. I threaded a magnetic screw into a nipple and thread it through the valve hole with a magnet. Not that much different from Calvin.
I like building wheels. Recently built a huge one for my bew unicycle. During the process accidentally dropped a nipple inside. It took 20 minutes to get it out. I don't think I'd enjoy building that holeless rims, lol.
Park Tool must have forgot to switch their calendars - April 1 was on a Saturday this year not a Tuesday.... also, shouldn't we be a bit concerned that rattling a nipple out of a carbon rim is a bit like that bar trick where you drop a dime into a glass beer bottle so that you can impress patrons by smashing the weakened glass over your head or do I misunderstand the dynamics of carbon layups?
Calvin, maybe when a nipple gets stuck in there you should try pairing one of those little sealant adding tubes from the Tsi-1 with a vacuum cleaner to stick or suck up the spoke out of the rim.
I'd rather change an integrated headset/stem/bar combo with internal cable routing and Di2 and hydraulic braking than build a wheel like this, any day of the week😂
Having built a few of these, I now refuse to build wheels with no spoke holes. The benefits of these rims doesn't come close to compensating for the time required to build or repair.
Try a dab of some thick grease on the end of a spoke, pop it in the hole from below, move the rim to get the nipple to stick to the grease then slowly withdraw the spoke. With any luck the nipple will be pulled far enough to drop out the hole after the spoke.
Due to the slow and fiddly process needing extra care , the labour cost woild be high but the valve core hole is still a risk for leaks so the idea behind this rim is not a true problem solver .
I had a situation with a wheel, so I tried this technique, and was amazed at easy it was and how well it worked. Now I have to go and cut down a clothes pin.
@7:23 finally wheel builders can earn their keep.🤣 I'll have to think long and hard whether I want to go this route on my next wheel build. Looks like a right PITA.🤕
I built a rear wheel with such a rim bed once, a little time-consuming, but not as bad as I thought, just be careful not to accidentally knock the nipple back into the rim.
Watching Calvin build these is as close as I ever want to come to having to deal with wheels without spoke holes 😂
When he said that he was gonna take each nipple through that one hole, I started to wonder if the inside of the rim moved.... NOPE! When he pulled out the magnet, I instantly knew I never want to do this.
I do about 90% of wrenching on my bikes myself, and I hate TL tape with a passion. Been on these kind of rims for 3 years, replaced some spokes too -- never looking back. Just ordered a new pair of there Real-tubeless rims, carbon and asymmetric, of course. Sure, you have to lace them for an hour instead of 10 min. per wheel, but totally worth it.
How is this not an April Fool?
@@krushiXX I don't get tubeless. Why would you not want a tube? This is crazy. Solves so many problems.
@SianaGearz A main argument I've heard for tubeless is being able to run a relatively lower tire pressure without increasing the risk of a flat. This is especially good on mountain bikes riding on rough terrain when compliance affects the ride quality. 50psi tires over roots isn't fun. On a bike that will mainly be ridden on the road, tubes seems like the right choice to me due to its ease of serviceability and your decreased proximity to a bike shop than from a mountain (presumably)
never expected to see a homemade nipple clamp shown off on a bike tool channel, yet here we are
Calvin, Thank you for giving some patience perspective on some very frustrating aspects of our jobs. There is a lot to be said for accepting how challenging and frustrating a job can be before starting it so when it turns frustrating, the frustration just becomes an accepted bit of patience in the end.
Calvin is the cool uncle that knows pulls quarters out of your ears, cheers you up every time you see him, and can fix literally anything.
Suddenly, tubeless tape doesn't seem so bad! Also, if you use tape that is a few mm wider than your internal rim width, the tape will extend slightly up the wall of the rim on either side and is much less likely to be disturbed when installing/removing tires.
What was wrong with having a tube, and why are you inventing so much unneeded trouble?
Wrong. If you use rim tape that matches your rim's internal rim width, it won't cover the entire width of the rim bed as the valley adds distance between two sides of the rim bed. The perfect width is always a little wider and it varies from rim to rim as different rims have different rim bed profiles.
오~~
친절한 설명 감사합니다.
When Calvin said "I have a solution, but the first step is - ignore it." I felt that on a personal level 😂
Suggestion: tie a small feather to a long piece of dental floss and shove it in one of the spoke holes. Apply shop vac to the valve hole and vacuum the feather out. Then use the dental floss to pull the nipple back the other way.
I could see Park Tool coming up with a tool kit for building Tapeless rims. It would include an anodized BH 1.2 clamp and magnet handle!
I can totally see a micro-spoke where only the tip is magnetic would come through the hole much more easily... and some kind of a mini net to fish out the loose nipples: net can go through the hole and opens up inside the rim, catches the nipple and you just pull out... c'mon Park tool!
The fishing stud could be built with a magnet only at the tip and the rest non magnetic to make it more likely to hit the hole without the wiggling around so much.
I like my tubeless tires to ride on, but when they need replacing I'm going back to normal tires. Tubeless aren't worth the hassle.
The TPU tubes from Schawlbe, Tubolito, Perelli, etc. are just as light or lighter than sealant and a tubeless valve. If you're not concerned with running super low pressures and don't have thorns/cacti on your trails, they're a great option.
@@stephenkohler3472 I'm mostly a bike commuter, and my problem with tubeless has been that I have to pump them up about every other day because they go soft too quick. Pumping up tires used to e something I'd have to do every few weeks.
@@minuteman4199 generally if you dont get much flats tubeless only really makes sense on mountain bikes and sometimes gravel. if you are just commuting on paved roads id just get some puncture resistant tires.
@@knife1406 Agreed. I used to use Gatorskins (Continental?) and they were great.
@Minute Man Oh, yeah. Tubes all the way for that scenario.
Continental has a big selection of commuter tires now. It's the "contact" series. Most have flat protection. Im planning on running the contact urbans on mine soon.
When I came across this problem on one of the road rims around 15 years ago I used brake cable that you feed through nipple hole and push it until it reaches valve hole, than you pull it out with thin nose pliers feed the nipple and the cable will guid it to the right place. I found it much faster than magnet.
I could watch Calvin shaking the wheel for days.
Campagnolo having been making their wheels with "no spoke holes" for years. They provide a special steel screw that threads into the nipple and magnet.
Shamal 2-way fit, been around for almost 10 years
Right. It's called MoMag.
You make learning fun!
Just leave the dropped nipples in the rim for future road/trail-side repairs! Easy-peasy!
I'm always happy to see I'm not the only bike mechanic who refuses to comb my hair 😂
This system is called MoMag and it was developed by Campagnolo a while ago. Only recently it got adopted by other rim manufacturers. Campagnolo's best kept secret.
I think they should be called the WBTS - Wheel Builder Torture System
looks like a Light Bicycle Falcon Pro Rim :D
That would be a pile of scrap metal on my garage floor within the first hour.
How can that be. Your a minuteman, You only do things for a minute or they only take a minute for you.
@@emirrp Ha!! maybe a bit of both.
@Emil Persson maybe just very very small...
that new tool will be blue and 50$ a pop 😆
Tapeless rims for my tubeless tires on my bike with clipless pedals to go sking on my waxless skis.
Learning this is advantageous I’m sure…but the learning curve is an actual nightmare haha. Thanks for the tips though it’s greatly appreciated.
BUT IT'S TERRİBLE! Thanks Calvin!
I’m intrigued… I’ll have to look into those wheels.
and why would you not call it UST if it is Exactly UST??
I own two pairs of these rims and they're great if you don't break spokes often. Not sure I'd want to build them up but I bought them pre-built.
You gotta paint that clothespin proprietary blue
Excellent as usual for this tedious job😢 anyone has to agree Calvin has a lot of patience 😂
Yeoleo rims also have an unpierced rim bed. They come with nipples preinstalled from the factory :) Combine with a straight pull hub and bladed spokes, that makes for a wheel that actually laces quicker than a traditional wheel with J-bend spokes. The spoke pattern is determined and fixed in place by the hub, so you can insert all spokes at once before lacing. The spokes can be freely rotated to thread in the nipples, so no need to losen the tape securing the nipples untill the wheel is fully laced. The flat surface of the bladed spokes makes them a little easier to turn...
Is it possible to replace a spoke nipple on those, or is the whole rim dead if you break a nipple?
Would probably throw the wheel out of the window after the first 10 minutes.
Soon as they is a park tool for this Sealed Rim the better and while more time consuming just like all wheels one takes there time anyways and once done it will pay for itself in time saved in no need to replace the rim tape.
Something magnetic that threads into the nipple that has a rounded end with that 🧲 park tool and a new small park tool for grabbing it in place will be great to see in the future
I have built a few wheels with this type of rim and used exactly the same technique. It is much easier with straight pull spokes, but still doable with J bend.
That clothespin hack is genius. My big fat fingers have a hard time manipulating the nipple to get it started. Definitely going to try that next time.
Yeah i will not accept the job if a customer rolled up with one of this thank you very much
Best Bike Mech on UA-cam!
tip for anyone doing this, use brass nipples if you are going to use a carbon rim, its going to save you a lot of headache later on.
Tip also use washers because you sre buying expensive rim why risk fucking it up. Actually those crapafectures should come to senese and start using steel for nipples.
Calvin meu professor Deus abençoe "sempre" você e sua família. meu amigo Calvin sou do Brasil!🇧🇷🛠️⚙️🔧🧰👩🔧🇧🇷
Could they add some non-structural material to the interior near the valve hole so loose nipples funnel out easier instead of getting caught on the side like I assume happens?
It should be possible, I haven't seen any rim with this design yet, if it does exist.
Campagnolo/fulcrum have been using this design for like 10 years, both alu and steel spokes
Yes, correct. But with this system, you get to be part of the fun, picking hubs you want and spokes you like.
That's an interesting wheel. I am also a wheel builder.
this would make tubeless setups so much easier
"A few years later..."
Trying to watch this working out on the trainer and it's the most stressful video I have ever seen 😂
The un-holy system!
Why not make it a star-like tool (for turning) that can both clam down where it splits in two, and do the magnet operation?
Bonus for making the insertion hole parabolic so the spoke is guided into the nipple.
Has to be slightly concave to account for the bend in the rim. Maybe rims like this exist in 16" size?
Looks like fun! I appreciate the creative approach to problem solving and expect to be very busy building these up if they really catch on. Thanks!
To anyone that is interested, including you, Calvin, I have been building tapeless rims since last fall, and have found several tricks/tips to make the process easier, but it still is a time consuming process. It is really nice when done and many times the tire holds air without using any sealant at all, but still add it for puncture healing. Look forward to hearing from anyone interested.
I really hope you've figured out a away to deal with loose nipples inside!!
Which rim is this?
I also build tapeless in a style not dissimilar to Calvin.
I use nylon sewing thread tied to a shorter length of spoke. Drop it in the spoke hole and draw it out of the valve hole with the magnet. Screw on the nipple and washer and pull the thread through.
Rather than the modified peg, I found a bag of miniature pegs at a craft store and now put all the nipples in first held in place with the mini pegs. Start opposite the valve hole and work back so you're not installing nipples over the top of existing ones.
I'm curious what you charge to build a set compared to the regular rim? I can't see many people being too happy when you charge 3x the price of building a normal wheel, well at least that's what I'd be charging for doing it and the amount of time it'd take.
@@MountainBikeBarbados Hi MBB, I build the wheels for a friend who has his own business and he does all of the business dealings. Im fairly confident that the charge isn't what it could be but if you're interested I can give you his name and number. I know at one point we were building and selling carbon fiber, aero, gravel bike wheels for a price that was extremely reasonable
Inside-Out Rims
Hello Bonjour Calvin Merci beaucoup à bientôt 🖐️😊 👍
I'd love to see a special Park Tool tool instead of the books.
Something like BK-400 (as in 400 page book). 😉
I really hope these start becoming more commonplace on prebuilt wheels, especially mountain bike ones. Tubeless is nice, but the rim tape is the absolute worst part of the whole system.
I just started out as a bike tech at my shop and in a month I have sky rocketed my knowledge because of BBB-4 and park tool videos. I rather watch park tool videos than like tv shows 🤣
This is like every wheel builders nightmare....I think I'll stick with rim tape....
Swapping rims on Campag or Fulcrum wheels with these sort of rims (let alone those horrible Mavic 'FORE' drilled rims that Calvin coyly avoids mentioning) with aluminium spokes & nipples with bucketloads of threadlocker on them is the most frustrating & demoralising job in the bike shop world IMHO. Often the nipples are seized onto the spokes (& into the rim threading on Mavic rims) via years of road goop and, and you end up replacing half (or more) of the spokes in the wheel, because no matter how carefully you hold them, they wind up and snap as you try to undo the nipple. Then you have to put the little magnetic thing in the oversize nipples, drop and lose it a couple of times, and drag the nipples round the rim cavity, one by one: classic Italian arse-backwards engineering. The cost of the spokes (and the fact the freehub bearings are probably toast anyway) make for a wheelset that is very uneconomical to repair. OTOH, I have my Chris King Classic rim brake hubs with DT Competition spokes that I have laced 3 pairs of rims onto (after the old ones wore out), the last being tubeless compatible) and have never broken a spoke on them.
Clothespin is silly, there are many types of small locking clamps (for instance common forceps) available that are far more convenient and professional. Use the damned magnet to get the lost parts out, wtf. And how about a BRAND NAME??
I built my first bike at the end of 2022. I decided to also lace my first own custom wheels by Light Bicycles with no access spoke holes. Despite it being a 24 hole, I probably laced both wheels in about 6 hours. I threaded a magnetic screw into a nipple and thread it through the valve hole with a magnet. Not that much different from Calvin.
BH-1 should contain a special shortened spoke where just the tip is magnetic Tip. Feeding through the hole should be easy then....
So, when will the IRN-1 (internal routed nipple kit) be available to purchase?. Of course it will have to include he BH-1.2 as well.
Will a IR-1.3 (Internal Cable Routing) work with this method? Maybe update it with a nipple adapter at one end?
I like building wheels. Recently built a huge one for my bew unicycle. During the process accidentally dropped a nipple inside. It took 20 minutes to get it out.
I don't think I'd enjoy building that holeless rims, lol.
I SWX coin the term Enclosed system. for the closed wheel. April 9, 2023
Behold the birth of the SNC-101, spoke nipple clamp ! 😂 its $99.99 on sale
why just dont force Crankbrothers to make road wheels? Their Cobalt/Iodine wheels are great!
I have zero intention of ever building a wheel. Watched this whole video anyway.
Fun fact: they never actually showed he successfully got that nipple out, for all we know it's still dinking around inside that rim.
Park Tool must have forgot to switch their calendars - April 1 was on a Saturday this year not a Tuesday.... also, shouldn't we be a bit concerned that rattling a nipple out of a carbon rim is a bit like that bar trick where you drop a dime into a glass beer bottle so that you can impress patrons by smashing the weakened glass over your head or do I misunderstand the dynamics of carbon layups?
@8:43, if only there was a company that made professional bike tools.🤔
Calvin, maybe when a nipple gets stuck in there you should try pairing one of those little sealant adding tubes from the Tsi-1 with a vacuum cleaner to stick or suck up the spoke out of the rim.
I'd rather change an integrated headset/stem/bar combo with internal cable routing and Di2 and hydraulic braking than build a wheel like this, any day of the week😂
Calvin thank you, this is one of your best. Loved the whole thing. Also have a wheel to fix (no spoke holes)
MEU DEUS!!!! se em um aro de 24 furos já da agonia de se fazer, imagina com aros de 32 ou 36 furos????
Having built a few of these, I now refuse to build wheels with no spoke holes.
The benefits of these rims doesn't come close to compensating for the time required to build or repair.
INR-2 is a set of internal nipple rims sold by park tool. You should check those out in the next video.
That’s completely terrible and I don’t want anything to do with it. But have fun
Calvin is just sooooooo good. I do enjoy watching him do his magic and he is an amazing teacher!
Air tight rim - ATR
Would be my name for it - or maybe “ball ache wheel build” would be a better name…
I find it much easier to just drill out the rim so the nipples go straight in. Then just tape it up and you're good to go! 😄😁😂🤣😬
Try a dab of some thick grease on the end of a spoke, pop it in the hole from below, move the rim to get the nipple to stick to the grease then slowly withdraw the spoke. With any luck the nipple will be pulled far enough to drop out the hole after the spoke.
I have built these and they are not financially viable in most situations . They still have the problems of most standard tubeless wheelsets .
Did someone say canpagniol/fulcrum
😉
My man needs the Park Tools HB-01 hair brush
Due to the slow and fiddly process needing extra care , the labour cost woild be high but the valve core hole is still a risk for leaks so the idea behind this rim is not a true problem solver .
No friggin way, I'll be sticking w/ rim tape.
Where can I buy the BH-1.2? And why isn't it blue? 🥴
I had a situation with a wheel, so I tried this technique, and was amazed at easy it was and how well it worked. Now I have to go and cut down a clothes pin.
Amazing video, exactly what I needed.
Thank you for this interesting wheel build.
I'd lose my hair with this rim. Rather wrap a regular rim with gorilla tape or smth and you're done.
Leaks around the valve hole still occur so problem not entirely solved .
A steel ball on the tip of an aluminum stud might be the ticket if you had to do this often, save all that fiddling around.
Time is money lost, would have to charge so much to build this wheel it’s not worth it.
better worn out tape than this building process. horrible!
I don't get why they can't have a system to put them in like the retention on the old school brake cable end bead
@7:23 finally wheel builders can earn their keep.🤣
I'll have to think long and hard whether I want to go this route on my next wheel build.
Looks like a right PITA.🤕
I built a rear wheel with such a rim bed once, a little time-consuming, but not as bad as I thought, just be careful not to accidentally knock the nipple back into the rim.
Dealing with internal routing is bad enough. Now we have to deal with this too! 😅
These types of rims is why it is getting intolerable to be a bike mechanic!
Must have been a monk in another life 🙏
"I am sorry, but we were unable to replicate that rattle you told us about..."
I've always referred to it as a sealed rim bed. I get mine from light bicycle.
I'm pretty sure the rim in the video is from Light Bicycle also, as the finish is the same.
It turns a lot to put the rays, terrible technique that technique does not work
For those who find that internal cable routing is not enough of a challenge.