How to fix an LG Washer No High Speed Spin by installing New Shock Absorbers
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- Опубліковано 24 лют 2023
- Are you tired of your front-loading LG washer making a lot of noise and shaking during the spin cycle? Are your clothes coming out of the wash soaking wet? Does the washer refuse to go into a final spin, no high speed pin? This could be due to worn-out shocks, also known as dampeners or suspension. In this video, we'll show you how to install new shocks on your LG washer model number WM3370HVA, so you can get back to doing laundry without any interruptions.
In this step-by-step guide, we'll cover everything you need to know about replacing shocks on your LG washer. First, we'll explain how to identify if the shocks are worn out and need replacement. Then, we'll show you the tools you'll need for the job.
Next, we'll take you through the process of accessing the shocks, which can be a bit tricky in a front-loading washer. We'll provide tips on how to safely remove the old shocks without damaging any other components. We'll also show you how to properly install the new shocks, making sure they're securely in place and aligned correctly.
Once the shocks are installed, we'll explain how to test them to ensure they're working properly. We'll also give you some general tips on how to maintain your LG washer and keep it running smoothly for years to come.
Here is an Amazon link to the Replacement parts: amzn.to/3s25lO3
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Additional Keywords and Tags:
LG washer shocks, LG washer dampeners, LG washer suspension, front-loading washer, WM3370HVA, washer vibration, washer maintenance, appliance repair, LG washer repair, washer troubleshooting, washer installation, appliance maintenance, DIY washer repair.
Hashtags:
#LGwasherrepair #washerinstallation #appliancemaintenance #DIYwasherrepair #washertroubleshooting #frontloadwasher #WM3370HVA
The information provided in this video is for informational purposes only. I am not a professional repair technician, and the techniques demonstrated may not be suitable for all individuals or appliances. By watching this video, you agree that you are solely responsible for any repairs or modifications you choose to undertake.
Please exercise caution and ensure your own safety when attempting any repairs. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines specific to your appliance. If you are uncertain or uncomfortable with the repair process, it is recommended to seek professional assistance.
I cannot be held responsible for any damages, injuries, or losses that may result from the use or misuse of the information provided in this video. Viewers should proceed at their own risk.
Furthermore, please note that some appliances may have specific repair restrictions or guidelines set by the manufacturer. It is important to familiarize yourself with those policies and comply with them.
By watching this video, you acknowledge and accept these terms and conditions."
Repair went great. Powered on to find out I forgot to reattach the door switch connector. Now I’m debating just buying a new washer.
@@BeugsTheLegend That happens to the best of us. Just take front panel off and reconnect the door switch
This and the diagnosis video saved me hundreds of dollars on repairs or replacement. Great step by step process.
Happy to hear it helped. Thank you for taking the time to comment
Thanks, another successful self repair. Special thanks for calling out the hack wrench+spring stretcher.
you are welcome
Literally the best tutorial ever man. Everything you said helped me do this job.
Awesome, thank you!
Awesome video !!! Your super professional !!! Thank you for the help !!
you are welcome, thank you for the compliment
Dig it . Thank you for the thorough how to instructions
thank you
Thank you for this video, i learned alot
You are welcome
You can access all of the shocks from the back of the unit. It is slightly more difficult because you have to work by feel, but it wasn't that hard and was way easier than taking apart the front of the washer. When installing the rear shock I recommend putting a towel or something thick over the bottom of the access panel opening. I also had trouble with that bottom peg, and I also used a pair of pliers to help push the peg in, except for me the pliers slipped off of the peg and my hand slid across the bare (and sharp) metal in the center of the opening. Had a deep cut in my finger that needed 3 stiches. Learn from my mistakes! :D
Thank you for your advise.
I'm hoping to do the same. I have a dryer stacked on top and nobody is available to help me lift it off. This spring I had to replace all of the fill valves and this thing hasn't even seen its 3rd birthday yet with light use in a 1 person household. They sure don't manufacture these to last longer than 5 years. Awful!
You can try changing the shocks from the panel in the back. I plan on creating a video soon that shows this method . best of luck @@milfordcivic6755
Did you ever make this video?
@@Zakw17 Hi , glad I found all this comments , I just did my 3 shocks from below my LG machine , leaning the washer about 45 degrees on his side , perfect access as long as your bottom is not closed up , really don't need a video for this approach
This video is amazing thank you thank you
You are welcome
thaks for sharing
You are welcome
Why does everyone take the lid and front off. Why not turn it over on its side and access everything from the bottom?
Common sense is not that common 😅
Is the bottom panel removable?
@@ironmantooltime mine is open on the bottom. It just depends on how much work you need to do.
@@tbowen12 sure I'll check. I did the front panel for door seal replacement and I'd rather not do it again 🤣
I agree. I’ve worked on pump from bottom.
This is a great video. It solved the root problem of a burned out motor controller... Here's the complete failure scenario.
A leaking boot seal caused the front two dampers/shocks to corrode. This made (over the course of a few years), the motor controller to cycle heavily trying to reduce imbalance and fight the vibration sensors... and burn out because of imbalance. For years, we would see intermittent failed spin cycles (no machine error, just wet clothes). So after knowing the motor was OK, the controller was bad, and replacing said controller, the drum spun in diagnostic mode, but wouldn't initiate a cycle due to poor balance sensing. After replacing the dampers... Life is Godd again!
wow! good job. thank you for sharing. we all learn better as a community
Another trick is to use regular dishsoap to lubricate the pegs instead of spray lube. A tiny amount will slick it up.
Thank you for the tip
I replaced three shock absorbers following the video. Washer is working well now.
Even though the LG model numbers are the same the models vary from year to year. I would suggest you take photos before you disassemble as the number and placement of of the screws can vary and the reassembly instructions in the video may differ from your actual machine.
Thank you for your helpful feedback.
How did you know which the right part to buy a shock absorber?
what is that black rubber line called? at 11:21 mine is leaking and I cant find the part number to replace. thank you
I believe you are referring to the water line that goes to the pressure switch. It measures the water level in the drum
Originally I thought I had same issue (in test mode runs perfectly with no load, once added load it won’t going to high speed spin and tube warbling noise), so I replaced all 3 shocks, but still no luck. With the new shocks sometimes with very light load it can go into a high spin but I can see the tubes vibrating a lot and banging on the door, and the washer continues making loud draining noise (I don’t believe I have a draining problem since the water is not stuck in the tube)
Hold the outer(plastic) tub in your left hand and the inner(metal) tub with right hand and see if you can move them independently. If so you may have bad bearings or broken spider arm.
Nice video. Do we know this can be done from the base? 🤔
Not sure what you mean
@@appliancerepairamerican couple of people suggested the two front struts can be reached from the base which is easier than the procedure for taking off the front. Is that true?
@@ironmantooltimeyes, it can be done from the bottom of the machine. I propped up one side at a time to gain the access I needed.
@@csteketee cheers, I could do it from the back. Didn't work so scrapped the machine!
Why replace them instead of just lubing them like most people suggest? Curious as I need to lube or replace mine and dont want to waste either the time (lube and have to replace later anyways) or the money (replace when the can just be lubed).... Thank you for your content.
They need replacing. As a tech my time and reputation are most valuable assets. Best for both to get the job done proper in one visit rather than have the customer all back complaining and then have to return to get it done right
I've just recently bought new shocks and when comparing them to the existing ones there was hardly any difference in resistance, I tried greasing one of the originals and it actuality decreased the resistance.
I found the main fault was one of the front weights had worked loose, now tightened machine is much quite.
Thanks for making these videos I need to chance my shock absorbers and watching this it would definitely help. My model is LG WM4270HVA which absorbers you recommend getting from Amazon?
I would recommend getting OEM LG shocks
Thank you for subscribing :)
My machine has the exact same symptoms, but how can you tell if the shocks are bad? Could a faulty pump cause the same symptoms? My machine seems to be draining, but will not go into high-speed spin to complete draining and timer "sticks" at 11 minutes. In other words, are bad shocks the only thing that could cause this? Also, can existing shocks be repaired somehow?
What model number and brand is tour machine. There are a few reasons why the machine might not be going into a final spin. A clogged or defective drain pump is definitely one reason why.
@@YOGiiZA Kenmore model 796-4116. So I've taken apart drain and hoses and find no clog, pump seems ok, so I'm going for the shocks next. Trying to narrow down problem before I start buying expensive parts. REALLY appreciate your uploads and your quick response! Repair work in my area is so expensive and out of my budget at the time. Bless everyone who posts DIY fix-it videos to help others.
@@YOGiiZA P.S. Also saw another video on how to enter diagnostic mode. My Kenmore will go into high speed spin during this test, so it's got to be the shocks. These repairs are really not that difficult with great instructions from people like you, so please realize how much you are helping others who cannot afford high cost of professional repairmen.
Many times if the shocks are bad it will not high speed spin.
Thank you for the compliments
Yes, OEM refers to the original engineering and manufacturing, in this case made by LG. There should be a link to them in my description. If you cant fond them call this parts hotline and have your model number ready 800-347-2745
How to know which part of shock absorber you'll buy?
there is a link in the description. But it is best to get your model number and make sure that you get the correct parts for your pacific model. after you get your model number call this number and give them the model number and they will send the correct parts: 800-347-2745
How do you know which screw goes where when you put them back?
I use a magnetic tray when disassembling. I place the hardware in a pattern on the tray that mirrors the order in which i took them off. Having a method similar to this helps
@@appliancerepairamerican why not tape the screws to the part that was taken off?
Oh my god, I take off 3 screws for the front bottom part and maybe 8-10 for the back to change the shocks on my whirlpool duet! This is ridiculous, why so hard to take apart???
That is why we have a job
My Lg washer high spins but it sounds like broken metal grinding on each other
Is it a front load washer or toplaod?
Hello, how are you, can you put subtitles in Spanish please, since your videos are very interesting, thank you very much.
Thank you so much for the feedback. I actually speak spanish too. I have been planning on duplicating all my videos with Spanish versions. You have just verified my belief that people would appreciate that. I will make this my first video with a spanish version. I will try to get it done this week. God bless you
Mine will high speed spin during the diagnostics mode but not when I’m doing an actual load of laundry.
Needs new OEM shocks
@@appliancerepairamerican is that the same as shock absorbers?
Three shock absorbers? Never seen a machine with 3 before!
Yes, that is why this model needs them replaced more often than others
@@appliancerepairamerican My machine has 2, but I've seen some on here with 4. But never 3...
@@jamespassas9441 Usually 4 But this model is notorious for need them replaced because it only comes with 3
james, you can never say (text) that again!
I changed all 3 of mine. And it only made the shaking worse…
You may have a broken spider arm or bad bearings.
I think so yes. I just finished dismantling the drum and the spider are is all cracked. Now my problem is the 6 bolts. I only got one off. The rest are spinning. So I need to figure out how to get to the back end. Greer
@@YOGiiZA I ended up drilling two little holes and getting the 2 screws out. Spider arm off now. Waiting for the replacement to arrive.
ambitious. I do not perform that repair often. Most people choose to get a new washer when I tell them my price. Get some!
@@azazelone905 That's interesting, did you try putting machine on fast spin with the drum empty, because mine spins perfectly when empty so that leads me to believe the spider must be in good shape. As soon as washing m/c has clothes in it constantly shakes and bangs when spinning.
Great video @atlasappliancerepair. I saw your description of the Spider Assembly issue being tell tale to a "clacking". I was wondering if this is what you mean by that or if this is another typical issue with damper replacement. I took this short video of the actual sound: ua-cam.com/users/shortseQuAMdLomQs?feature=share
That is an awful sound! That is not the sound i was referring to. Check to see if the metal drum moves independently from the inner plastic drum. If so it is usually not worth repairing
Thank you very much for that note. To see this metal/inner plastic drum correlation, are we talking about coming in from the back and removing the rotor and then manually turning? Thank you again for the info.@@appliancerepairamerican
i replced all 3 still takes long on 6 minutes and still slow spin. wht else can i try?
are the pins supposed to be as large as they are, they look too wide to enter the new absorber
The new pins should come with the new shocks. they squeeze in and the locking tab expands back out on the other side