Hello guys, In this video i will show you how to adjust the angle/ position of your gear shift lever to give you comfortable position for smooth and precise gear shifts. This process is same for mostly all kind of motorcycles. Do this on cold engine to avoid burning your hands. 1 Release the locking nuts with 10mm spanner. 2 rotate the rod inwards to bring the lever down. 3 rotate the rod outwards to bring the lever up. 4 Tighten the locking nuts before you ride. 5 try different positions to find your comfort. 6 Tighten the gear lever with 8 mm spanner if it is lose. If you need this in hindi let me know in the comments.
Thanks, Inderjeet for the detailed explanation. I encountered this issue while taking a test ride of the Interceptor yesterday, I could hardly get my riding boots under the gear lever because it was too low.
This is amazing, I just changed my gear lever and now it's so much better, I don't have to keep my left foot in a awkward position,.. RE service guy told me it's not possible. To adjust that lever .. 🤣 🤣
Really helpful video. I recently bought high riding boots and have trouble shifting up because I cannot get my boot under the gear lever due to the stiffness in the boots. I will try this to adjust the lever a bit higher and maybe that will make my up shifts easier.
HAHA! I wish. I have a new Interceptor, bought 2 weeks ago. I just went to adjust my gear lever and I can tell you it is nothing like your demo, on my bike. The threads are that tight I could only turn one locking nut with my fingers after loosening it and I put thin oil on every thread as well. The male threads are so tight that I had to have a spanner on them to turn the other locking nut out, as for the center spindle it could only be turned with a spanner with another spanner on the end cap. I have just bought boots to wear on the bike as we are getting rain at the moment and I take my bike in for the 500km service tomorrow and didn't want to wait/walk around with sopping wet casual shoes for a couple of hours. I was going to take the lever off so I could loosen all the threads but will ask them at the bike shop to do it tomorrow.
It will turn don't worry , re has applied thread lock on each and every nut u can notice white stuff once u manage to release one 😂. Try the front caliper , it took me good amount of time with good muscle power to open the caliper 😂😂
Great vid... really clearly explained. Thanks also for going to the trouble of adding text notes. Looking forward to one on adjusting the chain... not sure whether that should be done on or off the main stand.
Hi, thanks for your videos. I'm trying to adjust my gear shifter and the little nuts are on so tight I cannot move them at all even using grip pliers to hold while trying to unscrew.
Initially these are tight u need to use two spanner one to hold the tie rod and one to open the bolts. It will open up don't worry. Sorry for late reply didn't get any notification for comments
Normal behavior of gear box sometimes you need to rock the bike back and forth to put into neutral at stand still. If still facing issue then make sure that the pinch bolt is not too lose and clutch play is normal. Lever play, clutch play and chain slack all affects the gear shifts.
Hello sir, do you also have this two-click feel when shifting gears? I don't know if I'm using explaining it right, but in my GT650 during upshift or downshifts I feel one click in the middle during the full gear change. Plus I also have problems with false neutrals.
Somehow getting what you are trying to say. See lever in gt is directly connected to the transmission like the race bikes, so the adjustment rod is not there, but make sure the pinch bolt is not lose. Then first check your clutch play(2to 4mm) and chain slack(20 to30mm) , Chain slack should be checked with wheel on the ground and bike as straight as possible, or bike on the paddock stand not on the main stand, both these are important to have smooth shifts. Then finally use a firm feet action to shift gears and try the preloading technique. Un learn ur old habits and try this. Preload the gear lever, by preloading i mean once u start rolling in first gear and you are about to up shift to second just just place your toe under the lever and have your foot grab the feel of the lever(do not push it up just grab the feel) now pull in the clutch fully and with a firm foot action make the upshift and release the clutch. Preloading the gear lever, once you get a feel of it would give u butter smooth shifts. Google more on preloading the gear lever for smooth shifting. First gear thud is ok a it is the biggest cog in the transmission use preloading here as well. Feel the lever first with foot (apply as much pressure that it won't shift) pull in the clutch and then with a firm foo make the shift. Try this and let me know. These gear boxes are super smooth, and if mechanically things are good then it is the technique used by rider is at the fault.
You mean the heal toe shifter. Now days that is not preferred as it doesn't suit the high speed and quick shifting. But should be possible to fix that lever. If the placement of tie rod and other stuff is possible or the entire system replacement to suit the heel toe kind. Try with your service center once they open post lockdown. Stay safe Regards Inderjeet
@@RS200Ak-d8j gt lever is directly linked to transmission so need to chk with service center. And heel toe would be bit odd on gt. Get a L shape rubber shoe protector on the gear lever that should help
@@sreejithtr4976 where online , original bremobo sintered can not cost 700 rs. Must be wrong product. These are copper sintered pads. If u need cheap option then the rest of the only way around is bajaj Dominar rear pads and cbr250 (non abs) nissin pads for front. This is the only matching combo i came across this should cost u around 1000 to 1100. But these are organic pads not sintered.
Thanks, and yes i will look into the rear brake next time the front brake video is also due. There is a similar kind of adjustment to the rear brake paddle.
Hi Inderjeet I am planning to own Interceptor 650 but I have below doubts, it will be great if you can help me:- 1. Should I buy BS4 or wait to launch BS6 ? 2. What will be the difference between BS4 and BS6 for Interceptor 650 ? 3. I am planning for Chrome, is there any addition maintenance in it and is it longlast in terms of Durability of Chrome ? Pls assist.
Bs4 and bs6 only difference would be a better catcon to provide better emissions level. Currently bs6 would be 50% less at emissions level. Bs6 would also increase the price of the motorcycle by a bit. I haven't done anything special for my chrome motorcycle. U just need to clean the buffed aluminum parts of the engine with metal polish as and when there are marks or water marks on it. Autosol works best. U can also use chrome powder for other chrome plated parts. I just use wet or moist cloth to clean it avoid dry cloth on dust it results in scratches. Bs4 and bs6 should be your call only. Performance wise both would be same.
Hello Inderjeet, hope is all fine with you and your family. I have previously contacted you on the relays, etc. I would like to ask you about the gasoline tank capacity. Technically speaking I filled the tank with 8,7 liters at the time I was in the fuel reserve level (supposing it has 3 liters) so this means that the tank actually has a capacity of 11,7 liters and not 13,7 liters as alleged by manufacturers. My average while softening the engine is of 20Km per liter. I hope the bike can make 25Km/liter after softening so that I can have a good travel range of at least 250Kms with a tank. Can you tell me more about this issue, shall I complain ? wud RE will do something about ? what about in India ? Thanks a lot. Namaste !
Hi , I am doing good and wish the same for you. Tank capacity for Interceptor is 13.7 ltrs and for GT is 12.5 ltrs. Don't go by the fuel gauge , it has a mind of its own it usually shows wrong reading. I normally fill up when the last bar starts blinking and sometimes it take 10.7 ltr and sometimes it takes 8 to 9 ltrs. For the fuel economy, I always calculate by tankful to tankful method means i fill it to the top inner brim then ride around for say 100kms then again fill it to the top inner brim and the calculate according to the fuel filled. I usually ride 80 to 110kmph on highway and it gives me 31kmpl with ease so on highway i fill at or after riding for 250kms , Inside city traffic i get around 24 to 26kmpl and we have too much traffic in Delhi. So I always trust my fuel economy figures rather than the fuel gauge 😂. This fuel gauge can easily fool you. Sometime it didn't even drop a single bar even after 100kms of riding. I use ron91 e10 petrol which is the standard fuel available here. Always try to leave 3 ltrs for the fuel pump as per my calculations.
@@ijs_autoandmore Dear Inderjeet, thanks so much. Lots of people were complaining. We all wanted to know what was the real capacity of the tank (I know the fuel gauge is a joke) but have measured 8,7 liters at the gas station when filling the tank to the inner brim as you said. Anyway, if it makes 25+ Km per liter is fine for me, that would be 250 Kms which is very fair for a 650.The only thing is that manufacturers say is 13,7 liters while is not so I get concerned with this. With 13,7 liters at 25Km per liter we would each 290Kms easily. I will check the consumption after softening and would love that reaches 31Km per liter, that would be fantastic. The bike is good and beautiful so that I'm satisfied with it. Thanks once again and take care !
@@PMVasconcellos from this 13.7 ltrs we are suppose to leave 2.5 to 3 ltrs for the fuel pump otherwise it will toast. Few times i have filled at 250kms on highway and it always take 8 something ltrs only. I have kept 230 to 250 kms as my filling marker for highway rides. Last time I did 140kms ride and it took 4.7 ltrs only.
@@ijs_autoandmore Nice to hear. My bike is still very new so that I will give peace a chance. I was planning a 10.000 Km trip at years end but unfortunately frontiers are closed. Let's see how it develops after, say, 5.000 Kms. Best regards Inderjeet.
While I agree with the idea behind preloading, I have never needed to consciously use this technique earlier, in whichever bikes I have owned/ridden........ wonder why this is such a necessity in 650 twins..... I have felt some improvement in gearshifts in my INT650(Feb23, 3700kms) after applying this technique, but sometimes when I am not conciously trying to preload the lever, it becomes clunky and inconsistent, hits false neutrals.............downshifts are terrible when I try to do 6-5-4-3-2 after slowing down over a hump...it almost always gets stuck.......so now I have started to plan and downshift in advance, so that by the time I reach the hump I only need to do 3-2 , 6-5-4-3 is done before reaching the hump. But again, whenever I miss doing this advance downshift, it's the same story. Surprisingly 650 was touted as having the best gearbox amongst all RE bikes and in general, but my experience hasn't been that great.....
I suggest u get your clutch free play check and adjusted and also cross check this same issue with another interceptor, also make sure that the gear lever is not too lose.
If clutch play is good and Gear lever is not lose and you still gets stiff feeling then do not worry as this is normal as transition from initial gear is bit hard due to bigger cogs. Try pre loading the gear lever, by preloading i mean once u start rolling in first gear and you are about to up shift to second just just place your toe under the lever and have your foot grab the feel of the lever(do not push it up just grab the feel) now pull in the clutch fully and with a firm foot action make the upshift and release the clutch. Preloading the gear lever, once you get a feel of it would give u butter smooth shifts. Google more on preloading the gear lever for smooth shifting. First gear thud is ok a it is the biggest cog in the transmission use preloading here as well. Feel the lever first with foot (apply as much pressure that it won't shift) pull in the clutch and then with a firm foo make the shift. Try this and let me know.
@@ijs_autoandmorehonestly, this gearbox is so good, you really don't need the clutch! Try preloading the lever with your toe then when you are ready for the next gear simply roll back the throttle about 25 to 30% the shift will happen almost instantly and you will soon get the hang of doing this especially when you are 'giving it some!'. Go for it.
Exhaust is full chrome there is no non chrome part. If i mean the dull area around the joints then u can buff it off with metal polish toh bring it to full shine.
Hello guys,
In this video i will show you how to adjust the angle/ position of your gear shift lever to give you comfortable position for smooth and precise gear shifts.
This process is same for mostly all kind of motorcycles.
Do this on cold engine to avoid burning your hands.
1 Release the locking nuts with 10mm spanner.
2 rotate the rod inwards to bring the lever down.
3 rotate the rod outwards to bring the lever up.
4 Tighten the locking nuts before you ride.
5 try different positions to find your comfort.
6 Tighten the gear lever with 8 mm spanner if it is lose.
If you need this in hindi let me know in the comments.
Kindly make a video on maintaining Chrome parts pls👏
@@clavinrx sure would make one soon.
Awesome thanks dude my baker express comes in next month
Thanks, Inderjeet for the detailed explanation. I encountered this issue while taking a test ride of the Interceptor yesterday, I could hardly get my riding boots under the gear lever because it was too low.
Thanks ♥️
This is amazing, I just changed my gear lever and now it's so much better, I don't have to keep my left foot in a awkward position,.. RE service guy told me it's not possible. To adjust that lever .. 🤣 🤣
Thanks
Really helpful video. I recently bought high riding boots and have trouble shifting up because I cannot get my boot under the gear lever due to the stiffness in the boots. I will try this to adjust the lever a bit higher and maybe that will make my up shifts easier.
thanks and yes it will definitely help, i have also made adjustment according to my boots.
HAHA! I wish. I have a new Interceptor, bought 2 weeks ago. I just went to adjust my gear lever and I can tell you it is nothing like your demo, on my bike. The threads are that tight I could only turn one locking nut with my fingers after loosening it and I put thin oil on every thread as well. The male threads are so tight that I had to have a spanner on them to turn the other locking nut out, as for the center spindle it could only be turned with a spanner with another spanner on the end cap. I have just bought boots to wear on the bike as we are getting rain at the moment and I take my bike in for the 500km service tomorrow and didn't want to wait/walk around with sopping wet casual shoes for a couple of hours. I was going to take the lever off so I could loosen all the threads but will ask them at the bike shop to do it tomorrow.
It will turn don't worry , re has applied thread lock on each and every nut u can notice white stuff once u manage to release one 😂.
Try the front caliper , it took me good amount of time with good muscle power to open the caliper 😂😂
Very clean and very well explained. Thanks mate. Keep it up
Thanks
Ur good i hope u go to heights in ur youtube life.. Cheers bro👍👍
Thanks sir♥️
Great vid... really clearly explained. Thanks also for going to the trouble of adding text notes.
Looking forward to one on adjusting the chain... not sure whether that should be done on or off the main stand.
Thanks for appreciation.
Amazing stuff
Keep up the good work
You make difficult work look so easy
Thanks
Thanks ♥️
Hi, thanks for your videos. I'm trying to adjust my gear shifter and the little nuts are on so tight I cannot move them at all even using grip pliers to hold while trying to unscrew.
The lower end of the rod on my bike was left hand thread (the locknut)
Initially these are tight u need to use two spanner one to hold the tie rod and one to open the bolts. It will open up don't worry.
Sorry for late reply didn't get any notification for comments
@@commonsense718 both nut are differently threaded
very helpful!
Thanks ❤️
Nice! Mine stuck in first gear for a bit tonight while parked..trying to put in neutral.
Normal behavior of gear box sometimes you need to rock the bike back and forth to put into neutral at stand still. If still facing issue then make sure that the pinch bolt is not too lose and clutch play is normal.
Lever play, clutch play and chain slack all affects the gear shifts.
Usefull video bro
Thanks ❤️
Hello sir, do you also have this two-click feel when shifting gears? I don't know if I'm using explaining it right, but in my GT650 during upshift or downshifts I feel one click in the middle during the full gear change. Plus I also have problems with false neutrals.
Somehow getting what you are trying to say. See lever in gt is directly connected to the transmission like the race bikes, so the adjustment rod is not there, but make sure the pinch bolt is not lose.
Then first check your clutch play(2to 4mm) and chain slack(20 to30mm) , Chain slack should be checked with wheel on the ground and bike as straight as possible, or bike on the paddock stand not on the main stand,
both these are important to have smooth shifts.
Then finally use a firm feet action to shift gears and try the preloading technique. Un learn ur old habits and try this.
Preload the gear lever, by preloading i mean once u start rolling in first gear and you are about to up shift to second just just place your toe under the lever and have your foot grab the feel of the lever(do not push it up just grab the feel) now pull in the clutch fully and with a firm foot action make the upshift and release the clutch. Preloading the gear lever, once you get a feel of it would give u butter smooth shifts.
Google more on preloading the gear lever for smooth shifting.
First gear thud is ok a it is the biggest cog in the transmission use preloading here as well. Feel the lever first with foot (apply as much pressure that it won't shift) pull in the clutch and then with a firm foo make the shift.
Try this and let me know.
These gear boxes are super smooth, and if mechanically things are good then it is the technique used by rider is at the fault.
@@ijs_autoandmore Preload gear shifting was really helpful...thanks :)
@@adityaneelkanth thanks, i have recently uploaded a video in preloading.
@@ijs_autoandmore I was using the bike for a few days to get a better feel of the lever.
Saw that video and thought of informing you!
@@adityaneelkanth thanks
Can we change the gear lever as bullet,pulsar . I mean traditional types
You mean the heal toe shifter. Now days that is not preferred as it doesn't suit the high speed and quick shifting. But should be possible to fix that lever. If the placement of tie rod and other stuff is possible or the entire system replacement to suit the heel toe kind.
Try with your service center once they open post lockdown.
Stay safe
Regards
Inderjeet
@@ijs_autoandmore sir, shoes get damaged while regular use. I purchased GT 650 only for my choice not for racing.
@@RS200Ak-d8j gt lever is directly linked to transmission so need to chk with service center.
And heel toe would be bit odd on gt.
Get a L shape rubber shoe protector on the gear lever that should help
Thank you bro very use full
Thanks brother
Hi can you please tell me how much cost for front and back brake pads of gt650?
It costs around 5.2k Rs for both front and rear. Few guys have replaced it.
@@ijs_autoandmore But in online it cost almost 700 .Why it's so expensive in service centres? After all it's just a small rubber pad right
@@sreejithtr4976 where online , original bremobo sintered can not cost 700 rs. Must be wrong product. These are copper sintered pads.
If u need cheap option then the rest of the only way around is bajaj Dominar rear pads and cbr250 (non abs) nissin pads for front.
This is the only matching combo i came across this should cost u around 1000 to 1100. But these are organic pads not sintered.
Informative sir
Thanks brother
Very nice but I have difficult to shift Neutral gear how to fix it
Thanks.
Tighten the gear lever pinch bolt if it is lose and Adjust the clutch play and see if it helps.
Nice video...can we adjust rear Break lever?
Thanks, and yes i will look into the rear brake next time the front brake video is also due. There is a similar kind of adjustment to the rear brake paddle.
Hi Inderjeet
I am planning to own Interceptor 650 but I have below doubts, it will be great if you can help me:-
1. Should I buy BS4 or wait to launch BS6 ?
2. What will be the difference between BS4 and BS6 for Interceptor 650 ?
3. I am planning for Chrome, is there any addition maintenance in it and is it longlast in terms of Durability of Chrome ?
Pls assist.
Bs4 and bs6 only difference would be a better catcon to provide better emissions level. Currently bs6 would be 50% less at emissions level. Bs6 would also increase the price of the motorcycle by a bit.
I haven't done anything special for my chrome motorcycle. U just need to clean the buffed aluminum parts of the engine with metal polish as and when there are marks or water marks on it. Autosol works best. U can also use chrome powder for other chrome plated parts. I just use wet or moist cloth to clean it avoid dry cloth on dust it results in scratches.
Bs4 and bs6 should be your call only. Performance wise both would be same.
@@ijs_autoandmore thank you
Hello Inderjeet, hope is all fine with you and your family. I have previously contacted you on the relays, etc. I would like to ask you about the gasoline tank capacity. Technically speaking I filled the tank with 8,7 liters at the time I was in the fuel reserve level (supposing it has 3 liters) so this means that the tank actually has a capacity of 11,7 liters and not 13,7 liters as alleged by manufacturers. My average while softening the engine is of 20Km per liter. I hope the bike can make 25Km/liter after softening so that I can have a good travel range of at least 250Kms with a tank. Can you tell me more about this issue, shall I complain ? wud RE will do something about ? what about in India ? Thanks a lot. Namaste !
Hi , I am doing good and wish the same for you.
Tank capacity for Interceptor is 13.7 ltrs and for GT is 12.5 ltrs.
Don't go by the fuel gauge , it has a mind of its own it usually shows wrong reading. I normally fill up when the last bar starts blinking and sometimes it take 10.7 ltr and sometimes it takes 8 to 9 ltrs.
For the fuel economy, I always calculate by tankful to tankful method means i fill it to the top inner brim then ride around for say 100kms then again fill it to the top inner brim and the calculate according to the fuel filled.
I usually ride 80 to 110kmph on highway and it gives me 31kmpl with ease so on highway i fill at or after riding for 250kms , Inside city traffic i get around 24 to 26kmpl and we have too much traffic in Delhi.
So I always trust my fuel economy figures rather than the fuel gauge 😂. This fuel gauge can easily fool you. Sometime it didn't even drop a single bar even after 100kms of riding.
I use ron91 e10 petrol which is the standard fuel available here.
Always try to leave 3 ltrs for the fuel pump as per my calculations.
@@ijs_autoandmore Dear Inderjeet, thanks so much. Lots of people were complaining. We all wanted to know what was the real capacity of the tank (I know the fuel gauge is a joke) but have measured 8,7 liters at the gas station when filling the tank to the inner brim as you said. Anyway, if it makes 25+ Km per liter is fine for me, that would be 250 Kms which is very fair for a 650.The only thing is that manufacturers say is 13,7 liters while is not so I get concerned with this. With 13,7 liters at 25Km per liter we would each 290Kms easily. I will check the consumption after softening and would love that reaches 31Km per liter, that would be fantastic. The bike is good and beautiful so that I'm satisfied with it. Thanks once again and take care !
@@PMVasconcellos from this 13.7 ltrs we are suppose to leave 2.5 to 3 ltrs for the fuel pump otherwise it will toast. Few times i have filled at 250kms on highway and it always take 8 something ltrs only.
I have kept 230 to 250 kms as my filling marker for highway rides.
Last time I did 140kms ride and it took 4.7 ltrs only.
@@ijs_autoandmore Nice to hear. My bike is still very new so that I will give peace a chance. I was planning a 10.000 Km trip
at years end but unfortunately frontiers are closed. Let's see how it develops after, say, 5.000 Kms. Best regards Inderjeet.
How many gear have interceptor
6
Nice video bhai
Thanks bhai
While I agree with the idea behind preloading, I have never needed to consciously use this technique earlier, in whichever bikes I have owned/ridden........ wonder why this is such a necessity in 650 twins.....
I have felt some improvement in gearshifts in my INT650(Feb23, 3700kms) after applying this technique, but sometimes when I am not conciously trying to preload the lever, it becomes clunky and inconsistent, hits false neutrals.............downshifts are terrible when I try to do 6-5-4-3-2 after slowing down over a hump...it almost always gets stuck.......so now I have started to plan and downshift in advance, so that by the time I reach the hump I only need to do 3-2 , 6-5-4-3 is done before reaching the hump. But again, whenever I miss doing this advance downshift, it's the same story.
Surprisingly 650 was touted as having the best gearbox amongst all RE bikes and in general, but my experience hasn't been that great.....
I suggest u get your clutch free play check and adjusted and also cross check this same issue with another interceptor, also make sure that the gear lever is not too lose.
Yeah sure, will get both the things checked..... although it's second service was done recently, but let's see......thanks
Hi
I'm feeling little stiffness while shifting 1st and 2nd gear .can you please tell me what's the problem?
If clutch play is good and Gear lever is not lose and you still gets stiff feeling then do not worry as this is normal as transition from initial gear is bit hard due to bigger cogs.
Try pre loading the gear lever, by preloading i mean once u start rolling in first gear and you are about to up shift to second just just place your toe under the lever and have your foot grab the feel of the lever(do not push it up just grab the feel) now pull in the clutch fully and with a firm foot action make the upshift and release the clutch. Preloading the gear lever, once you get a feel of it would give u butter smooth shifts.
Google more on preloading the gear lever for smooth shifting.
First gear thud is ok a it is the biggest cog in the transmission use preloading here as well. Feel the lever first with foot (apply as much pressure that it won't shift) pull in the clutch and then with a firm foo make the shift.
Try this and let me know.
Will try and let you know.Thank you 👍
Preloading is minimising the stiffness of gear ☺️.Thank you so much 🙏
@@sreejithtr4976 thanks was thinking of making a video on preloading lets see how it comes out
@@ijs_autoandmorehonestly, this gearbox is so good, you really don't need the clutch! Try preloading the lever with your toe then when you are ready for the next gear simply roll back the throttle about 25 to 30% the shift will happen almost instantly and you will soon get the hang of doing this especially when you are 'giving it some!'. Go for it.
FYI we can't adjust gear leaver for GT650
Will check that out next time i am close to a gt 650.
Updated the video title thanks for the information.
Bro , why is there a non chrome part on the exhaust near the lever? My bike has it too
Exhaust is full chrome there is no non chrome part. If i mean the dull area around the joints then u can buff it off with metal polish toh bring it to full shine.
@@ijs_autoandmore what metal polish would u recommend?
@@monkww Autosol metal polish works very well .
What’s your foot size
@@nidhins6349 7/41.
@@ijs_autoandmore done this modification. It worked for me
@@nidhins6349 nice
even in pulsar 220 we can adjust the shift lever for three different positions
Yes the adjustment is there.