For someone who isn't as experienced as you are, I would recommend using one of those bakers muffin tins to put all your little parts in, using a different one of the muffin holes for each part of the tear down, and rebuild. Also, for leveling the carb bodies evenly, on aircraft engine valve covers, we tape a sheet of 600 or 800 sandpaper, or emery cloth down on a flat surface. Then we put the valve cover down, and while applying a bit of pressure, we move it around and around in circles. That flattens and levels the surface. That technique should work well for the two carb bodies, to make nice level surfaces to mate against each other.
That may be the answer - I look at the "imprint" on th gasket, and it looks like it seals all around the openings very good, that is something I will have to check out. -Thanks!
Mike, not sure if you still see comments for these older videos, but I have a similar carb, a TSX 896 on my IH 444 tractor. After seeing you take out the power valve adjuster, I think I may have made a big mistake. My version has an anti-run-on solenoid valve at what looks like the exact same place as the power valve adjuster, and has the same type of long needle. When I rebuilt the carb, I saw that someone had jammed a filed-down nail into the valve to jam the needle open. I took that out, and tested the solenoid with battery voltage and it didn't work. So..... thinking that the only purpose of the needle was to shut off the idle circuit when the ignition was shut off, I cut the needle off instead of jamming it open like it had been. Now I'm finding that gas is overflowing from the float bowl. Haven't taken the carb back off yet, and I suspect something is keeping the float valve open. But, thinking about cutting off that needle... with that cut off, could it be allowing extra gas to fill the float bowl?
Where do I get a kit for tsx 809 carb I have a John Deere 1010ru 1961 I've found that as the tractors running the float pin vibrate and falls out kills the tractor.
My tractor was running raggedly. I removed the carb, cleaned it, and reassembled it. Then it was overflowing with fuel. I bought a new bowl gasket, needle, and seat. After I reassembled it carefully following your video I found a bug in the fuel line which I removed. That was likely my problem in the first place but now it will not run at all unless I spray the intake with starter fluid. The bowel seems to be full of fuel. What should I look for?
Hello there, my marvel tsx 683 pours fuel out of the air cleaner even after rebuild. Took it apart and rebuilt it again exactly as this video and still have the same issue. Checked the float, no bubbles. Do you have any idea what this could be? Thank you.
I have one of these carbs I am trying to get lined out. The tractor is a 1963 John Deere 1010 RUS. The ID plate on the carb is missing, so I have no idea of the actual carb model. I know it is the "B" type, because it has the large thumb screw for load adjustment. Any clues as to what model carb John Deere used on their tractors?
I have a TSX 706 on a 1957 Ford tractor, it did not have a jet below the main venturi. I didn't see any threads. The instructions with the kit showed a jet in all the exploded views. I have a tractor book and it doesn't show the jet?? I am still having some problems and would like to know if it should have one? Thanks, Fred
I have a 9N with a random misfire at any speed. If that is a carb problem where should i look. As of today you don't have a kit in stock for it on your site. The carb is clean all passages are open. The venturi is plastic. The ignition system seems good both primary and secondary. it starts easily.
@@MikesCarburetor it does seem to hesitate when you open the throttle. I have replaced plugs, wires, points, condenser. distributor bushing and primary wires. Compression is good. it does not seem to be limited to 1 cylinder. Thanks for your reply.
Mike great video, i have the type c and the power mixture screw is on the bottom. I have gone through the carb 3x and still cannot get it to accelerate properly it bogs down like its not getting fuel. You say to accel. to governor speed under load and make the adjustment clockwise. How do i do this sounds very dangerous? Cab i do it with the tractor in neutral instead?
Is there anything in that carb that can let the fuel leak out with engine off? I rebuilt it and have been back in it 3 times and the float,needle and seat are fine, but it will leak fuel out the carb like it's overflowing the bowl. I blew through the fuel inlet fitting while opening and closing the needle with the float and it holds great. Tractor runs perfectly fine but leaks the fuel out if you don't shut the valve off. Thanks.
The same here -! leaks fuel - No idea what causes that- I have to shut the fuel off, and in a couple of days- there is fuel in the bottom of the carb ! ? ( new needle& seat, float is adjusted at 1/ 4 inch- just like they said) I don't know- must be " fuel gremlins" ! ? LOL
I have had the carb off 4 times,- it idle's great, But when I slowly open the throttle to about 7/8" " wide-open," it is starving for fuel at that area of the throttle to hold the rpm's, the person who rebuilt it, may have put the butter-fly in 'backwards" ? someone said that would mess up the "transfer ports" - I can pull the choke out about 1/3 of the way out and it runs great- haven't put it "under load" yet, I can turn the main jet in or out and it doesn't make any diff-
throttle valve / butterfly- it goes in only one way and it is correct, fuel flow real good, no fuel pump(gravity flow), carb float set at 1/4 inch, i re-set to raise the float level to get more fuel."All"- fuel/air passages are clear( did it 2 times) gasket seals good between bowl and top, - - - MAYBE - someone put in the wrong air/fuel jet in the bowl/valve body ? Guess I will have to let the customer know what I did, - Thanks for the comeback ! -Gene-
Not to be negative or anything, but I've watched you take two apart already Both times you say keep watching after you've disassembled for the rebuild after it's been cleaned. I've looked through your videos around the same time period, and have yet to see you put one back together again. Then adjust it correctly, and that's exactly what I am looking for the final adjustments to smooth out the idle, and adjust the mixture so it's not too rich, are too lean. Also setting the correct idle speed, and the correct high rpm speed setup. Quite frustrating honestly, and I understand that you have literally hundreds of different carburetors that you have rebuilt, but these particular ones you have yet to finish one out after disassembling the darn thing. So a little bit more information is yet still available inside v very knowledgeable mind for us dummies that are having trouble with final adjustments. Please I wouldn't even bother you if I had it figured out for myself. Holleys no problem elderbrock no problem quadra jet Carter yes n no but I can adjust them to run correctly, but a vacuum gauge helps greatly with automotive carburetors. Would this also be true of these, and if so where would you connect the vacuum connection for the gauge. Hot dam, I stand corrected, finally going back together, now if you show final adjustments it will be excellent and I will be extremely grateful.
bought one rebuilt, coming off idle the governor/ linkage shuts down engine??? question is the carb or governor at fault?? think its on 464 international
Trick: To flatten surfaces, get a piece of ground flat tool steel. To this get double sticky faced tape and put it evenly on the steel flat. To this add your chosen sand paper carefully so there are no creases. Now you have a flat sandpaper surface to hand flatten the carb gasket interface. Old machinist's trick.
Russ Bowman A piece of wet/dry sandpaper On a piece of glass, preferably a quarter inch or thicker, works well too. Wet the glass and sandpaper and grind away
Lightly passing / moving a larger, flat, Mill Bastard File over the surfaces will give you the feed-back if further flattening with sand paper on a flat surface is actually needed. A few *Light, Gentle* passes - not "filing" - is the key.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
56 Ford 820, I have pulled apart and cleaned twice with this video. Thanks!
For someone who isn't as experienced as you are, I would recommend using one of those bakers muffin tins to put all your little parts in, using a different one of the muffin holes for each part of the tear down, and rebuild. Also, for leveling the carb bodies evenly, on aircraft engine valve covers, we tape a sheet of 600 or 800 sandpaper, or emery cloth down on a flat surface. Then we put the valve cover down, and while applying a bit of pressure, we move it around and around in circles. That flattens and levels the surface. That technique should work well for the two carb bodies, to make nice level surfaces to mate against each other.
That may be the answer - I look at the "imprint" on th gasket, and it looks like it seals all around the openings very good, that is something I will have to check out. -Thanks!
Smart! Such a rear thing these days... Thanks
Good comprehensive video for carb rebuild.
Thank-you so much for sharing your experience. My Allis-Chalmers Road Grader is running strong now.
Why is there no gasket between the carb body halves? I would expect that even if the faces were level.
Mike, not sure if you still see comments for these older videos, but I have a similar carb, a TSX 896 on my IH 444 tractor.
After seeing you take out the power valve adjuster, I think I may have made a big mistake. My version has an anti-run-on solenoid valve at what looks like the exact same place as the power valve adjuster, and has the same type of long needle. When I rebuilt the carb, I saw that someone had jammed a filed-down nail into the valve to jam the needle open. I took that out, and tested the solenoid with battery voltage and it didn't work. So..... thinking that the only purpose of the needle was to shut off the idle circuit when the ignition was shut off, I cut the needle off instead of jamming it open like it had been.
Now I'm finding that gas is overflowing from the float bowl. Haven't taken the carb back off yet, and I suspect something is keeping the float valve open. But, thinking about cutting off that needle... with that cut off, could it be allowing extra gas to fill the float bowl?
Great video. A little more lighting, however, would really help. Thank you.
Where do I get a kit for tsx 809 carb
I have a John Deere 1010ru 1961
I've found that as the tractors running the float pin vibrate and falls out kills the tractor.
My tractor was running raggedly. I removed the carb, cleaned it, and reassembled it. Then it was overflowing with fuel. I bought a new bowl gasket, needle, and seat. After I reassembled it carefully following your video I found a bug in the fuel line which I removed. That was likely my problem in the first place but now it will not run at all unless I spray the intake with starter fluid. The bowel seems to be full of fuel. What should I look for?
Hello there, my marvel tsx 683 pours fuel out of the air cleaner even after rebuild. Took it apart and rebuilt it again exactly as this video and still have the same issue. Checked the float, no bubbles. Do you have any idea what this could be? Thank you.
Exactly what I was looking for thanks
I'm having the same problem float and needle valve work great until I re assemble the car then it stops working
Make sure the needle viton tip isn't swelled up due to ethanol.
I need a venturie for mine. Any help?
You need more light for those on utibe can see the carb up close when you are reassembling.
Yes, I will be doing this video over.
Thanks a bunch. Saved my butt I was the retaining pin for the float needle in wrong
I guess Ben meant spring/retainer
If you have to force it right over there by the door is a sledge hammer. Give it a wack it'll fit. 👍
I have one of these carbs I am trying to get lined out. The tractor is a 1963 John Deere 1010 RUS. The ID plate on the carb is missing, so I have no idea of the actual carb model. I know it is the "B" type, because it has the large thumb screw for load adjustment. Any clues as to what model carb John Deere used on their tractors?
I have a 1961 1010 ru jd mine is a txs 809
I have a TSX 706 on a 1957 Ford tractor, it did not have a jet below the main venturi. I didn't see any threads. The instructions with the kit showed a jet in all the exploded views. I have a tractor book and it doesn't show the jet?? I am still having some problems and would like to know if it should have one? Thanks, Fred
Thanks
I have a 9N with a random misfire at any speed. If that is a carb problem where should i look. As of today you don't have a kit in stock for it on your site. The carb is clean all passages are open. The venturi is plastic. The ignition system seems good both primary and secondary. it starts easily.
@@MikesCarburetor it does seem to hesitate when you open the throttle. I have replaced plugs, wires, points, condenser. distributor bushing and primary wires. Compression is good. it does not seem to be limited to 1 cylinder. Thanks for your reply.
Mike , I have a TSX 350 carb that is missing the power valve neddle and packing. Is that something you can provide? Thanks
Mike great video, i have the type c and the power mixture screw is on the bottom. I have gone through the carb 3x and still cannot get it to accelerate properly it bogs down like its not getting fuel. You say to accel. to governor speed under load and make the adjustment clockwise. How do i do this sounds very dangerous? Cab i do it with the tractor in neutral instead?
How did you paint the carburetor without getting paint in the holes or on the metal where the gasket makes contact?
Need some light on the carb
Where are you located?
Is there anything in that carb that can let the fuel leak out with engine off? I rebuilt it and have been back in it 3 times and the float,needle and seat are fine, but it will leak fuel out the carb like it's overflowing the bowl. I blew through the fuel inlet fitting while opening and closing the needle with the float and it holds great. Tractor runs perfectly fine but leaks the fuel out if you don't shut the valve off. Thanks.
The same here -! leaks fuel - No idea what causes that- I have to shut the fuel off, and in a couple of days- there is fuel in the bottom of the carb ! ? ( new needle& seat, float is adjusted at 1/ 4 inch- just like they said) I don't know- must be " fuel gremlins" ! ? LOL
Set the float
I have had the carb off 4 times,- it idle's great, But when I slowly open the throttle to about 7/8" " wide-open," it is starving for fuel at that area of the throttle to hold the rpm's, the person who rebuilt it, may have put the butter-fly in 'backwards" ? someone said that would mess up the "transfer ports" - I can pull the choke out about 1/3 of the way out and it runs great- haven't put it "under load" yet, I can turn the main jet in or out and it doesn't make any diff-
throttle valve / butterfly- it goes in only one way and it is correct, fuel flow real good, no fuel pump(gravity flow), carb float set at 1/4 inch, i re-set to raise the float level to get more fuel."All"- fuel/air passages are clear( did it 2 times) gasket seals good between bowl and top, - - - MAYBE - someone put in the wrong air/fuel jet in the bowl/valve body ? Guess I will have to let the customer know what I did, - Thanks for the comeback ! -Gene-
@@tinkergene did you ever find out what was causing your problem, I'm having the same issue
ccoin chris I didn’t find the problem with the carb - I think the customer will have to live with it
Not to be negative or anything, but I've watched you take two apart already
Both times you say keep watching after you've disassembled for the rebuild after it's been cleaned.
I've looked through your videos around the same time period, and have yet to see you put one back together again.
Then adjust it correctly, and that's exactly what I am looking for the final adjustments to smooth out the idle, and adjust the mixture so it's not too rich, are too lean.
Also setting the correct idle speed, and the correct high rpm speed setup.
Quite frustrating honestly, and I understand that you have literally hundreds of different carburetors that you have rebuilt, but these particular ones you have yet to finish one out after disassembling the darn thing.
So a little bit more information is yet still available inside v very knowledgeable mind for us dummies that are having trouble with final adjustments.
Please I wouldn't even bother you if I had it figured out for myself.
Holleys no problem elderbrock no problem quadra jet Carter yes n no but I can adjust them to run correctly, but a vacuum gauge helps greatly with automotive carburetors.
Would this also be true of these, and if so where would you connect the vacuum connection for the gauge.
Hot dam, I stand corrected, finally going back together, now if you show final adjustments it will be excellent and I will be extremely grateful.
bought one rebuilt, coming off idle the governor/ linkage shuts down engine??? question is the carb or governor at fault?? think its on 464 international
26:12,,, He took out venturi then put it in UP SIDE DOWN,,,,WRONG,,,!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Trick: To flatten surfaces, get a piece of ground flat tool steel. To this get double sticky faced tape and put it evenly on the steel flat. To this add your chosen sand paper carefully so there are no creases. Now you have a flat sandpaper surface to hand flatten the carb gasket interface. Old machinist's trick.
Russ Bowman A piece of wet/dry sandpaper On a piece of glass, preferably a quarter inch or thicker, works well too. Wet the glass and sandpaper and grind away
Lightly passing / moving a larger, flat, Mill Bastard File over the surfaces will give you the feed-back if further flattening with sand paper on a flat surface is actually needed. A few *Light, Gentle* passes - not "filing" - is the key.