Finished one just 2 days ago. I was selling a Wisconsin agnd. I always test everything before sale. I was an idiot and left fuel in it for God knows how long. Sprayed carb cleaner to prime it , hit on the first crank [ as always ] did before. Ran for a second or two. Took the carburetor apart, found the float completely dissolved. I pulled an old kit off the shelf, it was a Teledyne repair kit. I had 1 original float left. Completely went through it, didn't soak as long as this video, reassembled it, put it on, off to the races. Quick note, never soak carburetor in gasoline. Remember, that's the very thing that plugged it up in the first place. Always remove Welch plugs too. Take care in setting float level. This engine is an absolute monster. Sold locally for a tidy sum. An old engine that was made to run all day everyday!!!
My Steiner carb rebuild kit for my John Deere is on its way. Hoping it works out well for me 👍 thanks for the vid… never rebuilt a carb before and am excited to try it out.
This Marvel Schebler carb is finally done! I have pruning to do in the vineyard the next few days (weather permitting), then the forecast is calling for three days of rain. Hopefully I can get this carb on the tractor and attempt to start the thing then. It will be nice to have it running - and out of the machine shed! 😊
I needed to use a bench grinder and make my own ultra thin wall deep socket to get the long jet out, and also had to grind down a screwdriver to get those little jets out.
Love the idea of using the 1/4 drill bit. I used a metal ruler and it was hard to get a good measurement. I also like your rebuild base, roll of tape.😀
I got a kit from SpareX and it told me to use the old Nozzle, but did have a new one in the kit. I have found a wide tip screwdriver is not needed to remove the main seat. Use a long thin screwdriver or your butter knife and lay it in the seat groves horizontally and turn it out.
Right there at the end where you are putting the choke butterfly on the shaft - it's nice that you made a tool to lift up the flap on the choke butterfly, but it isn't needed. On the lower carburetor base, on top of the base you'll see a slot right behind where the choke shaft goes through. Once you start the butterfly on the shaft, stick a slender screwdriver down that slot. It will lift up that flap on the butterfly and allow you to slide it the rest of the way on the shaft. It's also why you should put the choke in before you bolt the top (aka airhorn) onto the carb base.
Hi Mojo, great vid and between all the parts you got there, let's hope you don't have disassemble it again and it starts right up, look forward to hearing it purr, talking of purr how's the kitten, did she make it, hope so
A real, actually rebuilt carb is $300 plus. I've used Chinese carbs for B and S lawn mowers for years. Wouldn't use one for a touchy old tractor, though!
Chinese replacement are NOT equal. Send in core and have one of the better carb shops rebuild it for 1/2 price of good new- that has always been the best option for me.
Happy that the new kit worked out. It will be nice to have the tractor running again.
I sure hope so! I still have some lights and other stuff, but that's for a rainy day. 😊
Finished one just 2 days ago.
I was selling a Wisconsin agnd. I always test everything before sale. I was an idiot and left fuel in it for God knows how long. Sprayed carb cleaner to prime it , hit on the first crank [ as always ] did before. Ran for a second or two. Took the carburetor apart, found the float completely dissolved. I pulled an old kit off the shelf, it was a Teledyne repair kit. I had 1 original float left. Completely went through it, didn't soak as long as this video, reassembled it, put it on, off to the races. Quick note, never soak carburetor in gasoline. Remember, that's the very thing that plugged it up in the first place.
Always remove Welch plugs too. Take care in setting float level. This engine is an absolute monster. Sold locally for a tidy sum.
An old engine that was made to run all day everyday!!!
My Steiner carb rebuild kit for my John Deere is on its way. Hoping it works out well for me 👍 thanks for the vid… never rebuilt a carb before and am excited to try it out.
Thanks Zach, and good luck! 🤞
Oh my gosh, it's going to run better than it ever did!
One would hope so 😉
This Marvel Schebler carb is finally done! I have pruning to do in the vineyard the next few days (weather permitting), then the forecast is calling for three days of rain. Hopefully I can get this carb on the tractor and attempt to start the thing then. It will be nice to have it running - and out of the machine shed! 😊
Looking forward to seeing that tractor do some work around your homestead. :-)
And get it out of my way in the shed - don't forget about that 😉
I needed to use a bench grinder and make my own ultra thin wall deep socket to get the long jet out, and also had to grind down a screwdriver to get those little jets out.
Love the idea of using the 1/4 drill bit. I used a metal ruler and it was hard to get a good measurement.
I also like your rebuild base, roll of tape.😀
Thanks Mike!
Rulers can be hard. I've got a micrometer that's more precise.
I got a kit from SpareX and it told me to use the old Nozzle, but did have a new one in the kit. I have found a wide tip screwdriver is not needed to remove the main seat. Use a long thin screwdriver or your butter knife and lay it in the seat groves horizontally and turn it out.
Right there at the end where you are putting the choke butterfly on the shaft - it's nice that you made a tool to lift up the flap on the choke butterfly, but it isn't needed. On the lower carburetor base, on top of the base you'll see a slot right behind where the choke shaft goes through. Once you start the butterfly on the shaft, stick a slender screwdriver down that slot. It will lift up that flap on the butterfly and allow you to slide it the rest of the way on the shaft. It's also why you should put the choke in before you bolt the top (aka airhorn) onto the carb base.
Great video
Thank you William!
Hi Mojo, great vid and between all the parts you got there, let's hope you don't have disassemble it again and it starts right up, look forward to hearing it purr, talking of purr how's the kitten, did she make it, hope so
Unfortunately, the kitten did not make it, but the tractor will purr like a kitten nonetheless! The next rain day I'm going to give it a shot!
Did you end up having any problems with the packing on the choke shaft leaking? Just seems like the felt ring isn’t a very good seal?
Do you know what size that screw plug is by chance?
No, I do not. Sorry 😐
Suspense builds... :)
I know, and I wish it weren't. If this thing don't start... 😠!!!
@@PlanetMojo Yeah, but what are the odds?! 😉
@@SamlonHoldfield I think it's like 90/10 that it starts... but I may have jinxed myself right there 😉
@@PlanetMojo lol 🤞
what did that carb come offof.thanks
TO-20 Tractor
Just wondering why people rebuild carb for same price as new one
That's where the dang pin goes.
Dang pin goes there. Gotcha.
eBay new carb 48-159 doll hairs already to put on
That thing is taking forever
You ordered the wrong kit from Steiner. That’s why you have two jets. It may work, but maybe not.
$32.08 new carb on ebay, why rebuild??
Chinese Ebay carbs are junk.
A real, actually rebuilt carb is $300 plus. I've used Chinese carbs for B and S lawn mowers for years. Wouldn't use one for a touchy old tractor, though!
Why would you buy a $ 63 rebuild kit? You can buy the whole carburetor for$ 36 from Amazon, seriously........
The carbs on Amazon are Chinese look-alike junk, seriously...
This complete carbutetor from Steiner is between $300 and $400. So the $63 kit is the economical way to go.
@@billbraniger2306 Correct 😊
@@PlanetMojo I got my kit from Dan and Rachel Gingell. Don't remember all the parts, but was happy with the it. I use Steiner Parts a lot.
Chinese replacement are NOT equal. Send in core and have one of the better carb shops rebuild it for 1/2 price of good new- that has always been the best option for me.