Good demonstration. I always heard to never climb on a small mill but as I have used mine more and more I find there are times it is the best direction for certain specific cuts especially light finish cuts for a better finish. It just takes experience and a bit of thought during setup. Still, my collection of broken/mangled mills is comparable to yours. The fun of dealing with unknown scraps. All the best!
That is exactly it, it all comes down to the thought and the setup involved. In this case it's balancing risk of a 1 mm sudden movement due to backlash vs 100 mm movement due to the plate moving If you look carefully the table does jerk at one point when I climb cut, but it was fine, I just sliwed my feedrate
You can brace the the plate in the vise with thick (3/4-1”, thicker =better) chunks of steel on both sides. You need to clamp the braces near the top, not just at the bottom in the vise. Such “sandwich “ behaves like a thick workpiece and no longer as thin plate (relatively to other dimensions). You eliminate plate flexing which causes chatter, which is the reason for the tool grabbing too much material and breaking or pulling the workpiece out of the vise. You can mill edges of very thin and flexible material this way (aluminum, plastic) and it is faster than clamping flat to the table.
Agree this would be beneficial for surface finish I was more trying to show how tool placement affects the cutter forces, and the implications Thanks for watching
A thin sheet of annealed copper works well too! To be honest. I think the wire is easily the weakest part of the setup here. These cuts wouldn't be too bad if there was more clamping area.
Hey, break off a few more and you can use the shanks to make a set of home-accuracy pin gauges, lol! You could tell the material wanted to move, but I agree, it was surprising to see how much it took to break an end mill. Thanks for sharing!
Question Please?.... What is the width of your Mill Table's Key Slots? Why didn't you put Two pieces of square Key Stock in the Mill Tables Key Slots them push the work part piece against the Key Stock on top of adequate parallels Clamp the workpiece down then machine the part piece?
Only just saw this comment. Absolutely right that this would work well The travel on my mill is limited so I'd have to remove my vice to do this, so if I need to machine a plate and get absolutely right, I hang it over the edge of my table and horizontal mill it
To my knowledge, no. Typically it's all just clamping force, these toolmaker vices don't offer as much force, but they are more accurate. I have a screw vice that clamps harder, but I prefer this one Thanks for watching
Victims of previous plate milling for the most part Think I've got it worked out now, I use a USB OTG cable, and that way I don't even need to sync the audio
@@TomMakeHere I have a few endmills like that. I had a braindead moment the other day and undid a fairly new large 4 flute endmill from the collet without holding the endmill. It promptly dropped about 200mm onto the table and bounced. When I found it, an entire edge had broken off in one big flake :-( I will keep it and see if it's any good for roughing but I don't think it'll be the same again. The USB OTG cable is a great option if you can use it - my phone doesn't have OTG. I am glad you have a working setup though. Sounds a lot more manageable then what I had set up.
Another good way to mill plate like that is to just clamb it between some scrap pieces that are close to the height it the plate, giving it more support
@@TomMakeHere I have a little lathe :) Sometimes I need to make slots or drill perfect pattern holes, etc. Would make tapping easier for sure too. I found a super old mill that had been upgraded with DRO's but it said it needed 580 volts so I passed it up :( I didn't know you could get stuff to convert 240v to whatever at the time. ua-cam.com/video/LldBEcThlXs/v-deo.html
Damn that sound like it would have been a good thing! Machine resellers and auctions are a good place to look. Not going to lie I might have set something in motion recently :)
Good one! I appreciate the destruction of tools for demonstration very much :)
I've gotten good at destroying tools!
It turns out it is difficult to destroy them intentionally
Thanks for watching
First look at your channel from here in North Carolina in the US. Fantastic information and presentation! Thank you. Subscribed.
Thank you. I plan on getting more videos soon
Subscribed for the helpful information and great demonstrations. But mainly ”to help UA-cam test some features”. That sold me. Great work man!
Cheers! You're helping a good cause!
Bigger vice & a couple more smacks with a hammer on the handle !!! Cheers .
Ha ha
Gotta work with what you've got
I was gonna say why not secure it flat, but ya beat me to it. Good video
Is this where I say first?!
Cheers, thanks for watching
Good demonstration. I always heard to never climb on a small mill but as I have used mine more and more I find there are times it is the best direction for certain specific cuts especially light finish cuts for a better finish. It just takes experience and a bit of thought during setup. Still, my collection of broken/mangled mills is comparable to yours. The fun of dealing with unknown scraps. All the best!
That is exactly it, it all comes down to the thought and the setup involved. In this case it's balancing risk of a 1 mm sudden movement due to backlash vs 100 mm movement due to the plate moving
If you look carefully the table does jerk at one point when I climb cut, but it was fine, I just sliwed my feedrate
You can brace the the plate in the vise with thick (3/4-1”, thicker =better) chunks of steel on both sides. You need to clamp the braces near the top, not just at the bottom in the vise. Such “sandwich “ behaves like a thick workpiece and no longer as thin plate (relatively to other dimensions). You eliminate plate flexing which causes chatter, which is the reason for the tool grabbing too much material and breaking or pulling the workpiece out of the vise.
You can mill edges of very thin and flexible material this way (aluminum, plastic) and it is faster than clamping flat to the table.
Agree this would be beneficial for surface finish
I was more trying to show how tool placement affects the cutter forces, and the implications
Thanks for watching
@@TomMakeHere get better, it is not ust about fucking around with metal. math! surface feet per minute! support! gah!!!
Great vid! #tipblitz19 is bringing some great content I otherwise might not have found.
Only just saw this, cheers mate!
Really nice video. Tip; Use gasket paper instead of wire (or old belts from the beltsander). For me it worked well on the shaper.
You make a good point, especially for a shaper - will have to start saving my old sandpaper now
A thin sheet of annealed copper works well too! To be honest. I think the wire is easily the weakest part of the setup here. These cuts wouldn't be too bad if there was more clamping area.
good demonstration.
Cheers!
thanks for being a part of #tipsblitz19 mate !
No worries
Still going through them all, there's a lot out there!
Hey, break off a few more and you can use the shanks to make a set of home-accuracy pin gauges, lol! You could tell the material wanted to move, but I agree, it was surprising to see how much it took to break an end mill. Thanks for sharing!
Oh I don't throw them away, I have plans for a future build...
Thanks for watching
Great visualization.
Cheers, thanks for watching
Really enjoyed the video. Learned a lot. 👍
Good to hear! Thanks for watching
Nice video
Thanks for watching!
Question Please?.... What is the width of your Mill Table's Key Slots? Why didn't you put Two pieces of square Key Stock in the
Mill Tables Key Slots them push the work part piece against the Key Stock on top of adequate parallels Clamp the workpiece down then
machine the part piece?
Only just saw this comment. Absolutely right that this would work well
The travel on my mill is limited so I'd have to remove my vice to do this, so if I need to machine a plate and get absolutely right, I hang it over the edge of my table and horizontal mill it
Is there such a thing as a "four jaw" vise, that works kind of like a four jaw chuck?
To my knowledge, no.
Typically it's all just clamping force, these toolmaker vices don't offer as much force, but they are more accurate. I have a screw vice that clamps harder, but I prefer this one
Thanks for watching
Great demo, though I'd already learned those tricks, the hard/expensive way.
Hopefully it helps some people out there
Thanks for watching
Using an Angle Plate and clamps is a much better option for this type of mill operation.
Good demonstration of how not to do it.
Absolutely agree, I don't have an angle plate though, and it's convenient to keep using the vice!
Informations about rotation, cut, and forces directions still appli !
Nicely demonstrated Tommy, new subscriber here also
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Well done Tommy, good to see what not to do.
Cheers
Peter
Sharing my learnings from many failures
Thanks for watching
I have two comments Tom: a) Gnarly endmills! b) Awesome audio!
Victims of previous plate milling for the most part
Think I've got it worked out now, I use a USB OTG cable, and that way I don't even need to sync the audio
@@TomMakeHere I have a few endmills like that. I had a braindead moment the other day and undid a fairly new large 4 flute endmill from the collet without holding the endmill. It promptly dropped about 200mm onto the table and bounced. When I found it, an entire edge had broken off in one big flake :-( I will keep it and see if it's any good for roughing but I don't think it'll be the same again. The USB OTG cable is a great option if you can use it - my phone doesn't have OTG. I am glad you have a working setup though. Sounds a lot more manageable then what I had set up.
It's always the new tools that get dropped!
The OTG cable is a successful method, but I'm going to experiment more
Another good way to mill plate like that is to just clamb it between some scrap pieces that are close to the height it the plate, giving it more support
Good idea, that would work quite well especially with thin plates
hahah! good video, and very interesting.
Cheers! You and John came up with a good thing with tipblitz!
I have done all of these scenarios. Why couldn't I have seen this video like 10 years ago!?
Glad I could help someone
Thanks for watching!
So buy a deeper stronger vise or mount to side of table on a bigger mill. Or mount horizontally or take smaller cuts.
Gotta work with what you've got!
I do have a screw vice that has better clamping force, but it's not square. Part accuracy is more important to me
Fuck u looser
Shaper kicks ass stupid set up lost 2 wars eh😄
All tools have their pros and cons. Gotta work with what you've got
👍🏻
I pushed the buttons. I'm unsubscribed now though.
Thanks for being part of the #tipsblitz!
There are sooo many tips.
Ha ha
Yeah tipblitz has been a great thing!
Buy a Decent Machine Vice.
I wish I had a mill :(
It's good fun, although I prefer the lathe
Thanks for watching!
I don't have a mill either. But i survive :)
@@TomMakeHere I have a little lathe :) Sometimes I need to make slots or drill perfect pattern holes, etc. Would make tapping easier for sure too. I found a super old mill that had been upgraded with DRO's but it said it needed 580 volts so I passed it up :( I didn't know you could get stuff to convert 240v to whatever at the time. ua-cam.com/video/LldBEcThlXs/v-deo.html
Damn that sound like it would have been a good thing! Machine resellers and auctions are a good place to look. Not going to lie I might have set something in motion recently :)
Too goofy to watch.
Can't please all
Some like something different, others want something more mainstream 🤷♂️