Holding wide plate material vertically on the mill
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2016
- This video will show you a trick for holding wide plate vertically so you can drill and mill the edges. When you run out of room using a vise, you will want to see this.
- Наука та технологія
Your the man Joe. After a brain hemorage I've lost a lot of memory of my days as a toolmaker. I watch your clips and stuff floods back . thx
What a great idea and another example of you literally thinking outside of the box. Can never have too many Kant Twist clamps. Thanks for sharing.
A stupid simple yet elegant solution. If you run across the problem enough, I would make that a rigid permanent jig.
Every shop has or should have that one guy who can come up with an idea when all others are stumped. The "answer man" is what I call them. Joe, you are that guy. This is such a great idea. And so simple. A+ my friend.
Thank you.
I'm getting back into machining for a new job, your videos are not only educational but inspiring too.
Hi Cap'n
Another one of Your brilliant ideas with an ingenious emergency solution. Where were You and UA-cam Twenty Five Years ago ??? Our work would have been of a totally different dimension then. Oh Well, that's Providence and we are grateful for the opportunity to learn now, even at our age, which is only a Number !!!
As always, Thanks a Zillion for showing and sharing.
Muchas Gracias, Maestro.
ATB
aRM
Great idea Joe, thank's for sharing your never ending well of tricks and tips. Keep the videos rolling please.
Will do. A little busy at the moment, but some new material is on the way.
Very clever. Keep on keeping on.
Thanks
Great Ideas for oversize and irregular shaped items! In my shop I often encounter such examples dealing with parts for antique automobiles that need to be repaired or fabricated. Thank you again for some great examples and ideas!
Great tip, Joe. I would have never thought of how to do that. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge. Maybe one of these days, I'll drive down to visit you.
That's a great set up Joe I've always clamped a big Knee or two to the table and clamped the work to that but that's a great way just a little background on me Joe I just got a job as the maintenance machinist for Zildjian cymbal makers in Norwell, Ma been in
business for over 400yrs it's the oldest family owned business in the country I started off as a machinist and have done Tool & die work for the past 30 yrs so getting back into what I really like to do now and it's always a few of these or those type parts to be made just to maintain the factory machinery so your channel is great learning a few new ways to hold things and make things is awesome so appreciate the time it takes you to do this Joe thanks Jeff
Dang Joe, that is freaking fantastic; thanks for sharing it! I appreciate the "take the handles off the vises" tip too, setting up a fixture for the second time because you absent-mindedly loosened the vise after the first run is fun and all, but i can think of a few things I'd rather do instead.
Unfortunately, i don't think I can.do this on my mill, but I'm glad that this idea will be rolling around in the back of my head, it might be useful somewhere else.
If you slightly redesign the frame, you could do this with one vise for smaller parts. Very clever my friend!
Its a very quick setup. Worked very well. Thanks.
My new favorite channel. Great info. Keep it up!
Best.
thanks for that lesson Joe, i was confronted with a task similar although i didn't have to do holes on the perimeter of the aluminium plate, it had to be cut into strips. using a handheld jigsaw was glacially slow and i had several other setup issues with the slitting saw i was using and also vibration issues.
i found that climb milling was the best way to go since the tool pressure pushed the work away from the slitting saw. going conventional it kept grabbing the saw and stalled it a few times and pert near broke the tool.
looks like i'll be making a special holding jig for this sort of stuff as i get this sort of job from time to time
cheers
mike
Awesome idea 👍🏻. Lucky for me we have a horizontal boring mill that I’d slap it on 😊
A simple, creative solution. Nicely done!
Creative solution I'll keep in my book for my mill which is small, too small. This helps a bunch. Nice video, again.
Thank you Joe for your useful videos in many areas of machining situations. I figure that a jig made with a 4"x 3" x .500" piece of milled angle plate, would do the trick bolted to the table slots. The reason for the wide sections and thickness, are to provide rigidity and also to clear the X DRO reader in the back of the mill. But your idea of using the empty and deep space in the rear of the table, is indeed ingenious. This brings to mind another clever solution by a fellow UA-camr who needed to mill an oversized part on his mill, and solved the problem by bolting a 1" thick steel plate of adequate size, to the table slots to extend support towards the front of the table. Within limits of weight and rigidity, works like a charm.
Cheers
Jorge
Great video Joe, as always,thank you so much.
Brilliant idea Joe!
Great channel. Tkx. Nice down and dirty, short and sweet solutions to every day issues. Excellent! Well edited, no BS.
Thank you Tom. I figure if I keep it to the point, people may actually watch. Seems to be working so far.
Great idea, you can also weld it from steel bars, and mill the final clamping surface straight. some holes or T-slots in it for clamps and you have a permanent tool.
But such a bar could be mounted on the back of the vice as well by the screw holes....
btw, I mounted them (back in the day I did milling) flat on the table, and removed the head, horizontal milling/drilling etc.
Another sweet tip! Thanks, Joe!
Excellent setup!
Yeah buying 5 Kurts would hurt more than a bit. Again very clever and well shown Joe. All these tips make perfect and logical sense AFTER I've seen them. I'd feel a lot smarter had I thought of them myself on a few jobs that needed something like you've been showing.
Excellent idea. Never seen this done before, thank you. We keep an old horizontal mill around for these types of jobs. Not much fun to run but there isn't much limit on the size of the jobs we can handle, within reason that is. For rather large items we have a lead screw driven support out front of the table. Very handy for end work.
Excellent tips Joe thanks. . .
Nice tip Joe thanks need a little book to put all good tips in
Mann! you're some cookie, Joe! That was real Headbanger stuff - fair rattled my cage, er Brain - That's what I like about your tutorials -this LATERAL THINKING. I've started gripping small vices in bigger vices ( for sake of accurate right angles ) and would reluctantly have turned boring head on its side - just the pain of setting squareness ( pity the mills don't have an indexing notch.... Mmm some mileage in there? - to make an indexing block for quick resetting for simple work, at least ? ) THink I'll have to get the apprentice to manufacture a similar device for our SINGLE large vice on the Bridgeport - the trick being to keep it square and parallel to the vice and table......... Many thanks.
Thanks for the comment.
Cool trick Joe !!
Great tip Joe. Keep 'em coming.!
Good idea Joe. I have a small horizontal mill so I did similar things on that machine.
Nevertheless I may need it sometimes. Thanks That Old Bob.
Great Idea ! Thanks Joe.
Great Ingenious) trick Joe - thank you. My small mill is a bit limiting but even so this sure could potentially help.
Thanks Joe...! Great idea. I'll probably use that in the future. Cheers, Danny.
Really like your videos Joe .. great idea!
As usual very clever and professional
Nice, short and to the point. I keep bars and structural tubes for jigs like that. Kant twist and Bessey clamps are my favorites. Daniel
Those 3" clamps can really put down some pressure. Anytime you make a setup like this, take a picture. It helps you to remember the details of what you did. Just remember where you put the picture ! Thanks for the comment.
Always something learned when watching one of your vids!👍
Great idea! I got to Thank You, I have a ton from your videos.
Thanks feeding my brain every time.I have only thumb up for you. You help me a lot.
Thank you.
Great tip - thanks for posting.
Great idea... I had project that was something similar to this while back. I was really lucky since I bought tool box from old tool and die guy and in his tool box was modified fixed Kurt jaw insert.. Basically it looks like J hook.. Mounts into existing holes or just clamps in the vise. Then it goes over to the back part of vise and table down about .250 of the railway.. It's made out of .500 A2 steel.. he used to make many safety guards for the equipment and they required holes / threads..
Hi Joe
I did something a bit related to this idea, in that I swung the turret to the right and then clamped a tall job to the back of the table. The job sat on a wooden block on the floor, a bit crude but I got the holes in the end of the job where I needed them!
Keep up the great ideas.
Pete
Albany. West Oz
I still do that. I had so many to do once, I actually built an adjustable outrigger. It works well.
...just recently discovered your site on recommended by Mr. Pragmatic Lee from TBT. Think its awesome that guys like you and him share your considerable experience with us non professional but avid machinists and creators. Subscribe and watching. Thanks a million.
Thank you.
T- Shirt idea at 4:29 "Thats it. Quick, dirty, clamps, boom, holes, done." Joe Pieczynski
Thanks for the videos again. I learn something from every one.
I had a job where I had to drill and tap the ends of 1x3 bars about 3ft long. A bridgeport has a T slot in the front of it and I have a hold down clamp that I think is for holding a board to the top of a workbench for working on it. I mounted that to the T slot so the bars could be clamped to the front of the table and extend clear to the floor if needed. Swivel the head to the side and job done. I've never seen another one of those clamps so don't know where you would get one. Hope that makes some kind of sense.
Great video! Terrific idea!
Quick setup too. It works well.
very clever idea thx 4 sharing.
Simple/smart...thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching.
Damn good idea Pie, Make a permanent set up and mill of that back side you have a set-up as true as the table axis. And make sure you clean them ways before moving the table back, that glass reinforced is some nasty stuff..
I have a drop in outrigger for doing long, tall vertical work, but I had to throw this one together on the fly. I thought it would be worthy of sharing. I cut a bunch of LE phenolic. Its crap, but once you do it for a while its easier. I have a fantastic cutter for it.
Out dang standing tip!
Great tip Joe! Makes one think about thinking more!....😊
Thats the whole idea.
Great ideas you have.
Thank you.
Good stuff! Your shops too clean!
Another winner! Thanks Joe :-)
I appreciate it Max
very nice job
I love these videos! I've had jobs where I hung the work off the table or to the side, but I never really gave much consideration to building an actual rig that goes in the vises. If I were to make one myself I would probably weld it and semi-permanently affix it to the table (probably to the t-slots that are outside the coolant pockets so the main slots aren't obstructed), then it would be sorta out of the way and my vises would still be available (plus it could act as a rail and I could fabricate some stops that slide along it for long parts). We have a number of bridgeports at work that seldom get used. Everyone has sorta claimed their own, haha. I would like to do this mod and also see about getting an extension ordered for the column. Every once in a while one of those jobs comes along that doesn't lend itself to easily being put in a CNC. We do have an angle head lying around somewhere that clamps onto the quill, but it can be a pain to use and spends most of it's days hidden in the back of the bottom drawer in the Lista collecting dust.
Great videos, real simple fixes to problems that can leave you stumped at times. Reminds me of a saying I heard that goes something like "pessimists see the glass as half empty, optimists see it as half full, Machinists look at the glass and realize it's twice as large as it needs to be"
Hey Sandman, thanks for the comment. We all know there is always a better way, only sometime the boss or the schedule won't let us get fancy. I like your ideas. I need to rig up a permanent one of these myself. Being vise anchored just makes the setup take only minutes. Thanks for watching.
Good setup.
This is great. I never would have though of this.
Thinking outside the vise....well done!
Thanks guys.
Now I just need twin vises! :-) I actually want a big radial arm drill exactly for this type of stuff. I worked in a shop that had one once and that thing was slick for jobs like this.
Level3-RC
I would love to have a matching 8" Kurt to the one I have. Loading one in and out of the mill is a good workout, if I had two to do I could start body building. lol
Level3-RC
I believe Kurt advertises all their vises to match dimensionally within .001" for each series. I do not know if they will match a pair beyond those tolerances for you or not.
Great idea
I'm really enjoying these videos, but you're uploading them faster than I have time to watch them! I suppose that's a problem to have. :)
No need to apologize for being your own sponsor for your videos. Shameless self-promotion is one of the biggest keys to business success.
great tip, keep em coming
You bet.
Great idea!
A comparable equivalent would be a couple of angle plates setup so the vertical faces were sitting out slightly past the rear of the table. Dial them in so they are coplanar and Bob's your Uncle.
On occasion I use an angle plate on my drill press to allow working on the end of a flat bar or plate without the need to rotate the table. So as soon as you poked that clamped up rear face framing into position my thoughts immediately jumped to my use of the angle plate to create a temporary vertical table.
In your case I like the drop in frame since it might be a bit of a PITA to move TWO vises and zero them in again so they act as one.
Hi Bruce. The angle plates would work perfectly as well. You may even be able to keep them screwed to the table and not consume the valuable vise space. This trick works well for the guys without the angle plates. Thanks for the comment.
Been using a Bridgeport for donkeys years and that's a new one!! Very smart!! From England, live in DC metro area.
Quick setup. That's what I like about this tip.
Last year I cleaned out a hoarder house and came away with 8 qty 3" Kant Twist clamps, NOS brand new unused. A nice score. And probably 50 x 4", 6", and 8" regular C-clamps, some of them deep. They say you can never have too many clamps....I just might.
Score for sure.
You're a genius
BRILLIANT !!
Nice Trick.
Dang Joe...really...so simple I would have never thought of it.
Good one!
Nice, the two Kurt buses make a great way to anchor it.
I like having 2 vises. It comes in very handy.
This is just so clever😃
Thanks Rob. Quick too.
Great - Thanks
Advanced Innovations for certain!
That's thinking out of the box.
yes I need to look at your scuba stuff....my old SPro D300 probably needs replacing....😊
The Rack light and camera bar works great for night, cave and shipwreck diving. Very comfortable.
Ingenious Joe.
hay thats a nice one
very helpful !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Quick too.
Why have a UA-cam channel if you can't get a cheap plug in for yourself from time to time. Nice work on the fixture. You can hang stuff off of every corner of the mill if you have the time to sit and think about it. Thanks for the channel.
Thanks for watching. This setup had the least impact on the machine. I'm all in favor of swinging the head, but closing vises is soooooo much faster. I also have a deep outrigger for long shafts and such. Thats another video.
joe nice tip.-----------bob
Niiiice thank Joe
Someday when I grow up I'll get 2 matching Kurt vises.... lol
Great tip on setting-up... ;)
I actually have 5. 2 on the manual and 3 on the CNC. It stung a bit, actually a whole lot. But it was worth it.
Since I'm now retired, it will have to wait until a super deal shows up. It's not like the customer will eventually pay for it. ;)
lol just like they say, "everything's bigger in Texas"
If you don't have 2 vices, this same kind of thing could by clamping an angle iron to the table with toe clamps. You could indicate the the angle iron parallel. A quick dirty way would be to make up some indexing pins that fit precisely in the slots on the mill table to locate the angle iron up against. I've been meaning to make up some indexing pins for the slots on my milling machine, this idea just gave me an excuse to make them up.
Your suggestion is a good one as well. The setup shown in this video is for the guy that doesn't want to remove his vise and may have a DRO glass scale protruding out the back of his table. My setups come and go very quickly around here, so anytime I can leaves the vise(s) in place and utilize them for secondary setups, its a good thing. Thanks for the comment.
Joe Pieczynski Joe your putting out some great content. I like the way you format a lot of it with the white board lesson first and then walk out to the shop and show the practical applications. The other thing I like is that you keep the video focused on the subject matter at hand. To the point. That's the way I like it...you're doing a great job on these videos. New subscriber here.
Joe, great videos, new subscriber here. The only problem I have with you adding a "plug" for your items is that you didn't provide a link in the description!
Here ya go. thanks for subscribing.
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Awsome
Good one.. I
Nice....A buddy of mine asked me if I could add a bolt circle pattern to a rear end axle that's about 36" long. Any simple ideas how to hold the axle of off the side of the table? Great videos...keep em coming! Thank You!
Hi Chuck. Swing the head of your mill about 45 degrees off center and clamp a big v block to the table. Let the part hang close to the floor. Careful you don't hit the lower casting of the machine when you move the part. Even a home made primitive v block will work.
A right angle head would also get the job done.
Sweet
Joe, very nice tip. Just wondering though - at 3:19 you said "don't forget to remove the 1-2-3 blocks". Why is it necessary to remove them? I would think they would provide positive support in the vertical direction, preventing the part from dropping in the event heavy downward force is applied to the quill. Please clarify. Thanks.
Excellent question. If you plan to drill a series of holes, the movement of the table and motion of your work piece can cause the blocks to tip and get lodged under your work piece forcing it upwards. I strongly suggest sliding the blocks out of the way between hole locations. If the blocks were rollers, it would be a different story.
Ah! I understand now. Thanks for clarifying.
You may have just inspired me to make a pair of short roller towers for this. Thanks
It's nice to know I'm good for something. LOL
If the blocks were rollers, eh? thinking about those skates - or similar - ball bearings in some astute or judicious placing.... Joe ? :-)
Thanks Joe. That's how I been doing it. I guess I was hoping for a better way. Have a great day!!
Fairly limited on this one Chuck. Swinging the head with a table mounted V block is next.
Good video Joe can you show some uses for a planer gauge?
Hi Mike. Are we talking about the planer guage that sets planer blades for wood working?
I don't think so Joe Kieth Rucker got several of these in one of his videos they are similar too a large adjustable parrell with a couple changeable posts
Cool!!!
It works well. Quick setup too !!
I use an angle plate and hang of the font.
Hey Joe,
Haven't been watching very long but are you alone in your shop or do you have employees ?
Pretty big shop for just you, right ?
You probably do, seemes like I heard you say "we" referring to your biz.
Anyway,
Gotta love them Colchester too.
Just got a 1964.
Built like A Tank !!!
Thx. !