How to Apply Roof Coating
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- Опубліковано 30 жов 2021
- This video shows how to apply a fibered aluminum roof coating! This is a simple DIY job to prolong your roof life, stop leaks, and save on your energy bill.
Fibered Aluminum Roof Coating:
www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-4-7...
Roof Cleaner:
www.homedepot.com/p/Spray-For...
Drill Mixer:
www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-23-...
Painting Discussion (Garage Renovation Series):
• Garage Renovation: Sta...
As an actual roofer I can tell you that aluminum coating on a modified roof is definitely recommended! HOWEVER, it DOES NOT stop leaks ! Before you coat the roof you need to patch all the cracks or any roof issues and THEN coat the roof. The only things that will fix leaks on a modified roof is torching down a fresh patch or using roof cement and then coating over that! This coating only helps reflect UV rays and prolongs the life of the modified roof !
Also this coating is ONLY acceptable on modified roofs because it’s asphalt based so DO NOT use it on a TPO or EPDM (rubber) roof
Thanks man - a lot of people on here are quick to critique without offering any useful information for what is correct or why. I appreciate you taking the time to explain for me and the viewers doing this on their own! Contributions like this are what make running a channel worthwhile!
Thank you for your comment. I did a lot of research and used Henry 555. Very helpful to hear from the pros!
As an Paranormal Roof I can tell you sir, A 3 gallon per sq application of a high grade acrylic elastomeric is a much better choice, aluminum does almost nothing for the roof. Additionally, one can then add ( at a later date if funds are short) a 2 gallon per sq of silicone to form a monolithic long term waterproof membrane. There are variables depending on the installation such as fabric and trowel grade sealants but acrylic forms and excellent base for silicone.
As a person who has used this type of product on leaky metal mobile home roofs i can safely stay it dose seal and stop leaks at least on metal roofs. You may be right on the type of roof he did.
You can use a stick to mix this product but it takes an hr or more so I recommend the drill attachment.
Thank you for posting this video. l'm glad that you remained safe. Thank you for your ending tips as well. Just keep running the saw comment...had to chuckle. Thanks again!
Great video. I like that you shared your mistakes as well. That’s what makes the video so great. Thank you
Excellent explanation. Thank you
Thank you for sharing your works. Especially pressure wash first.
I wish my roof looked that good. It was like painting a wig. It will need replacing but want to get another year out of it. Is it better to do a second coat? And yeah it’s messy. I used my grout mixing drill. I took it up on the roof and kept mixing as I worked. I also used two buckets and poured back and forth and it was still pretty thick at the end. I got 220 sq ft out of the large Henry bucket with a little left over. Lol, and yeah. I’m a little high with no breeze early this morning.
Could you give us a update on your roof? Thanks
Thank you. It looked like you bought Henry’s Roof sealer. Was it silicone based or acrylic based.
What setting do you use for the pressure washer?
Mine is a 1700psi 1.2 gpm with no option for different speeds. I used a 15 degree nozzle in this video.
I have a small area very small area I need to do. I have a weather window of about 12 hours before rain is scheduled again. The coating will have about 12 hrs once applied before the rain comes. Again a very small area. Can says make sure no rain for 48hrs, however does anyone have any experience with applying before rain? Do I need to make sure there is 48 hours?
Liquid butyl rubber is a good option.
I would wait dude it don't matter if its 2 square feet or 200 ft2 rain is going to do the same thing I made the mistake of years ago of only allowing one day for the roof to cure sat there and watched it run off the roof the next day, look like milk shooting out the downspout of the gutter.
I think this is an exceptional case for hiring a professional.
Let's make this a learning experience then - can you elaborate? What's done wrong? What's your background in doing roof coatings?
@@mydadvice
I own a roofing company, but I am also a licensed insurance adjuster specializing in roofing, flood, fire, and storm damage. One issue is that power washing your roof voids any and all manufacturer warranties. Also, any leak claim made where obvious, and it is always obvious, power washing was done on an asphalt shingle roof can and will be denied due to neglect. We replace an average of 20 or so roofs a year because of wrong information found on UA-cam. Fiber Aluminum roof coating are for reflective purposes only, and NOT to repair leaks. In repairing a leak, the substrate should always be replaced along with the underlayment. Some things it is a better idea to hire a professional, so you only pay once. Instead of paying a higher price later to have it done correctly, and to undo the damage you have done along with it...
Oh... and you are wondering why power washing voids the warranty, all roofing manufacturers provide a warranty for normal water rates and pressures. Pressure washing far surpasses the normal pressure of rain.
@@mydadvice do not pressure wash asphalt roofing for one. You ruin the longevity of them.
is that HENRY Rubberized#869 right?
Close! I used 555 because it's what they had locally. I've linked it in the description as well.
Magic in a can will last 3 to 6 months, Lloyd roofer 40 years now.
Why not a silicone coating like Gaco Flex?
Mostly the price, but also because of the material. I was worried a silicone product would shrink, crack,and degrade in the sunlight over time. I was also doing this on a budget and the Gaco Flex and other sealants were 3-4x the cost. Those are probably overkill for the typical homeowner. I originally did this around 4 years ago and have zero complaints or issues with the product I used and it shows no signs of degradation!
When i seal my metal roof, i ALWAYS start from the top and work downward. If you start from the bottom up and accidentally step in it, you slide off that roof like a kid with a slip and slide:) If you slip on a roof you want a dry roof beneath you as your fingernails drag. LOL Seriously.
The only reason I went bottom-up here was because this is a relatively flat section and my access point was behind the camera. I agree that going top-down is generally safer, especially on a steeper pitch. Sounds like you've taken that slide before?
@@mydadvice :)
@@homeontherange733 thanks for the advice, kind stranger who almost slid off a roof.
It would be good to know the product you were using
It's linked in the description
I think this is liquid butyl rubber
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Never ever pressure wash your shingle or roll roof. It will cut the life in half. Instead do a soft wash. Wet down your roof with a water then spray-on a mix of one cup bleach, one cup borax to a gallon of water. Wait 10 minutes and then rinse off with a garden hose. Any streaks that are left reapply mix to that area and if needed scrub with a soft brush.
I heard the bleach destroys the shingles and to use a enzymatic product like "Spray and Forget"
If you are coating it anyway i don’t think it matters.
Do not pressure wash your roof or shingles. Your washing the Minerals and Sand and Asphalt out and that ruins the life of the shingle
I notice that only roofers who make money complain about home owners doing this themselves. Typical.
Thank you! Glad I'm not the only one who noticed this pattern.
I own a roofing company, but I am also a licensed insurance adjuster specializing in roofing, flood, fire, and storm damage. One issue is that power washing your roof voids any and all manufacturer warranties. Also, any leak claim made where obvious, and it is always obvious, power washing was done on an asphalt shingle roof can and will be denied due to neglect. We replace an average of 20 or so roofs a year because of wrong information found on UA-cam. Fiber Aluminum roof coating are for reflective purposes only, and NOT to repair leaks. In repairing a leak, the substrate should always be replaced along with the underlayment. Some things it is a better idea to hire a professional, so you only pay once. Instead of paying a higher price later to have it done correctly, and to undo the damage you have done along with it...
Oh... and you are wondering why power washing voids the warranty, all roofing manufacturers provide a warranty for normal water rates and pressures. Pressure washing far surpasses the normal pressure of rain.
@@patrickhart6440 I'm in the trades and know for a fact while trying to powerwash a asphalt shingled roof you are also removing the granules that are part of the shingle. To clean them you are smart to used products that are made to kill green moss/mold etc. Or you shorten the life expectancy of the shingle. I assume that holds true for rolled roof material also, as there is a coating that eventually cracks and this is one reason to seal those type roofs. I'm currently doing my own now. Came online to see how long I can safely walk on top of my newly sealed roof in my current weather conditions. Not all the trades people try to tell you you're doing it wrong. Only when you are. You're only hurting yourselves but not researching further.
@@bertpainter8385 uhh... what?
@@patrickhart6440 What's the question? If it's about Power washing. Then, is too much pressure when they try to remove moss (the green thick shit). They're products to kill the moss and black mold that builds up over time in some areas you spray on (pump or airless) and rinse without pressure.
Instead of pressure wash, better to use a blower.
hahaha you're messy
There's a reason I wore clothes I didn't care about hahaha
Don’t do this.