Sirs: really very grateful for the responsible way of transmitting your knowledge about the braking system that was so advanced in those years. Thank you very much for your valuable cooperation. The vehicle I am repairing is a 1973 Silver Shadow
There has always been a lot of debate here in Australia and other parts that RR363 is the ONLY brake fluid to be used. I personally use RR363, yes more expensive but I don’t take the risk. I have seen another Shadow that used the wrong oil and the mechanic here kept the vehicle as the new owner could not afford the repair. I guess it will always remain a hot topic for discussion. Thanks for an informative set of videos as I just had the pump replaced on mine as the push rod snapped and you helped clear up a few things for me.
Thank you SO much for this lesson. A good friend of mine was bestowed a 1972 Silver Shadow and we're bleeding the brakes tomorrow. Honestly you make it look easier than changing the plugs on a 22R.
Ronny, I would like to thank you for your easy guide to bleeding. I had to remove a caliper on my 98 Azure and once brake pedal was held down with plank of wood! bleeding was so easy.
It’s nice to hear that you have used Castrol LMA....now Dot 4 for 40 yrs with no problems. The advocates for RR363 go on about it containing a small amount of castor oil which is good for lubrication. I don’t know....but if you are not rebuilding pumps and other system components as a result of using LMA then that sounds good to me. I actually believe the average car with RR363 has its brake fluid changed LESS often (due to the rediculous cost of RR363) when compared to LMA/Dot4, and THAT is causing MORE Damage to the braking system with all the gunk build up and water accumulation due to the fluid being Hygroscopic....than any potential issues from having a different brake fluid formula. I with you Ronnie!
Is the easiest way to "desludge" a shadow that has been sitting to remove reservoir cover, suction out sludge, wipe out reservoir, clean filters, refill and then do a very thorough bleed (to allow even more contaminants to blow into bleed capture reservoir ) and perhaps repeat after a month or so to hopefully get system about as clean as it can be? Cheers, thanks!
Are the brakes applied during this entire process by installing something pressing down on the brake pedal? Is this the same process used when the brake hoses are replaced? Can you do this with the entire top off the brake reservoir? Thanks!
Hi how are you Boss my car is Bentley 1989 ascaris problem starting trouble current proper listing petrol also good other think I am not understanding please can you help me engine trouble
He is showing bleeding the brakes, not the hydraulic system. The rat trap is getting flushed as all the lines in the rat trap are included in a brake bleed. If he was doing a complete hydraulic flush he would do the rams and the accumulator valve nipples as well. I think he is showing a way to bleed the brakes in a simple way. I apply the brakes from underneath the car by just pulling on the brake pedal from in front of the rat trap, you can wedge a block in there too. Underneath you can access the throttle linkage too to give the revs a pop. You can do the brakes by yourself with this method only needing an assistant on the master cylinder circuit, though you can vacuum that if you wish. Ronnies videos are the best I have seen, I appreciate his time.
Sirs: really very grateful for the responsible way of transmitting your knowledge about the braking system that was so advanced in those years. Thank you very much for your valuable cooperation. The vehicle I am repairing is a 1973 Silver Shadow
There has always been a lot of debate here in Australia and other parts that RR363 is the ONLY brake fluid to be used. I personally use RR363, yes more expensive but I don’t take the risk. I have seen another Shadow that used the wrong oil and the mechanic here kept the vehicle as the new owner could not afford the repair. I guess it will always remain a hot topic for discussion.
Thanks for an informative set of videos as I just had the pump replaced on mine as the push rod snapped and you helped clear up a few things for me.
I use Dot 3 with 10% castor oil for 6 years. No problem. I use my Shadow every week and no problem.
Thank you SO much for this lesson. A good friend of mine was bestowed a 1972 Silver Shadow and we're bleeding the brakes tomorrow. Honestly you make it look easier than changing the plugs on a 22R.
Ronny, I would like to thank you for your easy guide to bleeding. I had to remove a caliper on my 98 Azure and once brake pedal was held down with plank of wood! bleeding was so easy.
It’s nice to hear that you have used Castrol LMA....now Dot 4 for 40 yrs with no problems. The advocates for RR363 go on about it containing a small amount of castor oil which is good for lubrication. I don’t know....but if you are not rebuilding pumps and other system components as a result of using LMA then that sounds good to me. I actually believe the average car with RR363 has its brake fluid changed LESS often (due to the rediculous cost of RR363) when compared to LMA/Dot4, and THAT is causing MORE Damage to the braking system with all the gunk build up and water accumulation due to the fluid being Hygroscopic....than any potential issues from having a different brake fluid formula. I with you Ronnie!
Thank you very much that was most interesting. Kind regards, Richard.
Great video, keep things simple, at least by RR standards.
Is that a lot of rod-knocking I'm hearing? Or is it the hydraulic pumps working? Thank you for your maintenance videos!
Is the easiest way to "desludge" a shadow that has been sitting to remove reservoir cover, suction out sludge, wipe out reservoir, clean filters, refill and then do a very thorough bleed (to allow even more contaminants to blow into bleed capture reservoir ) and perhaps repeat after a month or so to hopefully get system about as clean as it can be? Cheers, thanks!
Tengo un rollos Royce 1974 y se bloquean los frenos traseros después de 15 minutos de uso normal que cree que pueda ser
Are we stuck with the Castro mineral oil Or is there a suitable substitute
Dot 4 brake fluid!!!!!
What brake fluid do you recommend
Are the brakes applied during this entire process by installing something pressing down on the brake pedal?
Is this the same process used when the brake hoses are replaced?
Can you do this with the entire top off the brake reservoir?
Thanks!
so the shadow is castor oil is the cornice mineral oil please
Hi how are you Boss my car is Bentley 1989 ascaris problem starting trouble current proper listing petrol also good other think I am not understanding please can you help me engine trouble
By doing it this way, you are't flushing out the fluid at the suspension ram and and "rat trap".
He is showing bleeding the brakes, not the hydraulic system. The rat trap is getting flushed as all the lines in the rat trap are included in a brake bleed. If he was doing a complete hydraulic flush he would do the rams and the accumulator valve nipples as well. I think he is showing a way to bleed the brakes in a simple way. I apply the brakes from underneath the car by just pulling on the brake pedal from in front of the rat trap, you can wedge a block in there too. Underneath you can access the throttle linkage too to give the revs a pop. You can do the brakes by yourself with this method only needing an assistant on the master cylinder circuit, though you can vacuum that if you wish. Ronnies videos are the best I have seen, I appreciate his time.