Right on! At first I read your message and thought it said you're not working with Daikin and I was like "um, ok?" Lmao. Re-read it and am glad I did! Lol. I love Daikin (clearly)
I'd also like to thank you. I just started a commissioning and service job specifically on daikin VRVs. Your vids are helping so much . I've worked on light commercial and resi and this new computer stuff is kinda driving me crazy but getting the hang of it. Not sure how I feel about working exclusively on these but it's cool stuff to learn
My man, I have just been put into a commissioning role at my company for our VRV installs. So glad to have found your content. Such clear and well planned steps, love the subtle music in the background too. Keep it up brother look forward to more content!!
Haha I watched a couple videos with ear buds the other day and felt overpowered by the music. Hope it isn't too loud for everyone ill might have to re-upload if it is. Glad it's helped you out though! That was my goal. None of the bs just heres how to do it and why/where/when/who etc like always lol.
Awesome !! I'm getting ready to do a very similar on. 35 to 36 fc per system 6 systems. It's a big one for sure! Best of luck hope it goes smoothly for you today.
@@gambleezzzy916 US-53 means bs box dip switches don't match connected indoor units. check the indoor unit power to make sure nothing is powered off by mistake. then check bs wiring for each indoor. and verify correct dip switches are set. you'll need to kill power for 5 minutes, when you reboot hold return on vrviv for 20 seconds to reinitialize, or hold reset on vrviii for 20 seconds to reinitialize.
@@gambleezzzy916 if your wires are good then it's either power related or dip switch related. It's 1 of those 2 things so triple check your dip switches are set correctly. And go triple check power to all bs boxes and indoors. You can count indoors from outdoor and ports to see how far its off and put the the system into forced fan to see which ones aren't running their fans. That'll tell you real quick which units aren't talking.
@@InverterAlways new issue fixed the other one. This says u4 03 verified wire from single indoor wires at od unit terminal to the od outside is good still getting code
Why would you put into forced fan? You could just put into recovery mode and look for green lights on stats. Especially if you have a job where indoor units aren’t visible.
Hello . Im a daikin vrv installer. Im interested in daikin start up. Your videos are wonderful and i thank you . Can you post or send me the the video where you do the start up of both old and new vrv start up . Ok the steps i understod because you explain to good. But can you post a video where you do the whole procedure not in theory but pushing the functions . all the procedure step by step. if you have done that can you please send me that video. Thank you
@InverterAlways hey man send me a pm.. would love to have your info just in case I ever need some help.. and same to you.. been doing it 22yrs and would love to help yah back if yah ever need it.. my name is Josh.. here in Texas.. Thanks man for all you do
How do remember each setting such as how you identify how many indoor units are connected? I assume there is so many more settings for diagnostic purposes but I can't seem to find any useful info
Well, years and years of doing it over and over has helped a lot for sure. But I also refer to the installation manuals for each indoor unit. And Daikin also has literature that shows some general settings as well. When you have multiple indoors it definitely requires closer focus, it's very important not to set the settings incorrectly from one style to another. Practice practice practice and make sure you always go from documentation to the stat. One thing you can do ahead of time is male yourself a sheet at the office for each indoor style you have on site. Go through all your literature there and write down the settings you want to utilize for that job. That way on site uoure just following a page of notes, helps it go faster. The same is true for addressing, I always make an as built programming sheet to reference ahead of time so it takes the guessing out of it.
I am working on the dip switches I was having trouble of getting the correct amount of units. Once I did the Dip switch on the First bs (Ds2) 1 to on) I got the correct amount of units I have two branch boxes. When doing the dip switches Do I gotta Put on the DS2(A1P) (1To On?) Is the Joining A & b branch boxes? Do I also gotta Do the same to the other branch box Ds2(1 to on ) because now I Am getting error code UA-53 error code
Ds2 is for pairing two sets of ports together. A and b for example would be ds2 switch 1 yes. But you'd be best off working directly with your local vendor who should a set of drawings. That way you're covering your basis and not setting the wrong setting. Also. When you do change something make sure you do it with power off at the box. And when you reset the outdoor if it's vrv4 or vrvx, hold return for 20 seconds when you power it back on. That resets the unit count. If it's vrv3 then hold reset button instead for 20 seconds when you power the outdoor back on. Then redo your indoor count. UA-53 is almost always mismatch indoor wiring to dip switch. It can also be power related. Check that all your indoors have power.
I've only ever had to replace one branch box, they rarely fail. But I reset addressing just to be safe it takes all of 15 minutes. No idea if it would be "required" but figured I'd rather do it to be safe than spend more time doing it later when I find out it's needed lol.
You have a branch box? If so you have a closed isolation valve. Or set of closed valves. Uf is usually no refrigerant temp change across indoor unit. System wide error so you'll need to check all of your isolation valves including the service ports ensure those got opened.
I have a way to find out the indoor unit which is not communicated to outdoor unit. You can use mode 2-21 and check the remote controller of each indoor unit. If indoor unit is not communicated to outdoor unit then remote controller will not display " Test operation " in mode 2-21.
100 percent. But because we don't want anything powered until after refrigerant is added, we commonly don't see sparky checking each unit, our mechanical guys check during equipment power up. Is it right? I don't know. Just common from what I've seen.
hi i work in a school and have the Daikin system in it and 2 out of 6 indoor units say "under centralized control when they are not, i have just changed the settings as per your video but they still say it , just wondered if you have any ideas what i can do, thanks for the great video by the way
Do you have a central controller installed or a building management system? Usually on schools we put a central controller or some level of bacnet or lonworks controls in it for remote control and remote access. If either are installed and set up with a schedule or any parameters that limit the controllers function it will be displayed. This can be as simple as setpoint restriction or scheduling. Also note that when using t1t2 for auxiliary devices if not programmed correctly than it will say central control when they alarm. Good example is condensate pumps and float switches which are normally closed alarm points, get landed on t1t2 which by default is forced off, a normally open contact. As soon as it closed it forces off the unit and says central control. Any of those things can cause it.
Hello, I have this unit RXYQ12T and I want to cool and heat (maybe under floor water heating) a residential building 169mp on one level and one garage 140 mp . The question now is, is it too big for this purpose? if i am gone attach Hxy125a for underfloor heating is it enough for heating the entire house in winter to 25 celsius? Thank you.
I woukd recommend having an engineer do a load Calc then select your unit based on that. Only safe way to do it since I'm not familiar with your design temps climate or other ETC
Nice project!! Well, I guess step 1 get the itm powered up with expansion d3 adaptors and get all the stats programmed (addresses and field settings). If you don't already have a sheet then make one so that you have all the addresses written down as you go so you're not guessing or trying to remember. Then port check. You can do 2 networks at a time if you've each got a laptop and service checker. Heat then parallel then full cool then fan test for indoor eev bleeds, finishing up that network of systems. Then move on to the next d3. Then upload the itm program from laptop it'll go faster to pre program on laptop. Then do any bacnet and airnet engineering to wrap it all up. I will probably do a video soon about this it's at the top of my list.
Dana, why am I getting u9 and u4 error codes on VRF 4 system only in middle of night. I came to my job this morning and all stats are blinking. My wiring looks good and if I reset it the equipment comes back online.
U4 is com error. U9 means there's an error on the system but not on the stat that's blinking the U9. Regarding what triggers the U4 this can be a lot of stuff. An indoor or branch box or outdoor losing power (only takes one unit), could be a loose wire this happens a lot. Can also be the wrong type of wire, such as solid core instead or stranded. Solid sucks for communicating systems it needs to be stranded. Also check if it's shielded or not. If shielded (which we don't recommend), you need to make sure the shield is grounded at one end only otherwise it creates an antenna affect causing intermittent com issues. Shielded wire also reduces the total allowable length of wire on a network (collection of systems) from 6600 to about 5200 plus or minus. I had a job a couple years ago they ran shielded in most areas and albeit grounded it right, any time more equipment came on than what the network could handle it dropped out. Had 4 systems on it and it would run 2 no problem. Systen 3 or 4 comes on poof com errors everywhere it was a nightmare to trace out the cause. Split networks in half problem solved. Not sure if that's your issue or not though. The other thing to check for is proper daisy chain. Folks will sometimes splice or star or branch the wiring and none of that works. Must go from outdoor to branch box to branch box to erv. From each branch box port to respective indoor connected (this part is more like a home run from Port to indoor physically. And the box internally daisy's it sort to speak). Why does it happen only at night is a great question. It's possible that something turns on and runs over night that doesn't run during the day and that operation causes the interference. Could be something on the vrv gear or something next to a unit that turns on and maybe that line voltage was ran too close or with the com wires. Gotta keep that stuff away from each other. U4 is a pain sometimes especially on larger systems, just one of those things that takes some extra time to trace out. Hope this helps a little.
So you have three solid little circles that won't turn off? That means it couldn't initialize and you have an error code. Turn on your nav controllers to see what the error is. After much time (30 minutes or longer) the outdoor usually goes into error as well but it depends on the error I suppose. If you wait for 30 minutes and it never goes blank quickest way to find out is to turn on stats and see what the error is. U9 means go check a different stat by the way. Lots of them may say U9
Any idea why I would have 2 separate 1 to 1 daikin cassette units after running through the test operation seems to run fine but after it satisfies it doesn’t seem to want to come back on unless it’s set 5 degrees below actually temp? Shows no error codes on stat. Also looking in maintenance info it still shows U3 and doesn’t list indoor/outdoor model even tho it went through the test operation and didn’t seem to have any issues?
1 to 1 sky air split or vrvs? You have a nav hooked up? You need to change field settings to sense from stat. The u3 in the menu history is history someone just turned on the stat before testing anything. That's old. Any live codes blink green on/off button light. Shouldn't have to set it 5 degrees below room temp to come on in cool mode though, may be delaying compressor since it has a 3 minute approximate minimum off time after running and shutting down. Not sure how long you're waiting between cycles. Also check your thermo-on deadband field setting.
@@InverterAlways 1 - 1 sky air “RZQ36TAVJUA” With a “FCQ36TAVJU” with the “BRC1E73” controller…. same issue with the “rzq/fcq30”. I changed the setting to use stat reading, changed dead band to 1* still same thing. It will be 74* in the space I’ll need to set the stat below 70* for it to come on it will cool the space down to set point and shut off. Climb back up to 74*.. with it being 2 separate systems doing the same thing I’m thinking there has to be something in the settings I’m missing just strange they both are acting the same way.
@@Itzmyke1 the unit shouldn't be shutting off the fan when it gets to setpoint unless you set the field setting for that to happen. Definitely strange though. Have you tried just running one of the systems and turning the other one off to see if there's any issues between the two maybe wiring related if they are right next to each other? Fcq units. Do those come with the sensor built in similar to fxfq? If so umyou should disable the floor sensor field setting. Floor sensor will override/take priority of control over nav and return if not disabled. Try that. That may be what's going on. I believe it's mode 24 settings but you will want to triple check I don't have any of my stuff on me today to check. Will try to look later though.
@@InverterAlways yes I changed the setting to disable fan when it is satisfied. I wanted to make sure it wasn’t just shutting the OD off and the indoor was running because of a call for cool. The indoor in fact doesn’t run at all when it’s satisfied and doesn’t come back on either. Yet no error codes come up at the stats.
I sir I have one problem in vrv 4 there is E09-03 alarm am replaced EEV and also main pcb but still alarm existing. Kindly help me get resolve this issue. 🙏
E9-03 is a bad connection at outdoor eev. Likely loose connector or cut wire. Or bad eev motor. There are a few of these eev coils though depending if you have a heat pump or heat recovery so verify ohm reading on each. Service manual and service app called daikin hub have the step by step to check the coils and ohm amountz.
Are you asking how to charge a Hitachi system with refrigerant? Pull the system into a proper deep vacuum then weigh in the calculated amount that needs to be added. On Hitachi vrf you can create a com error by removing the com wire amd it will open all the expansion valves so you can pull the proper vacuum.
No, sorry, however there are multiple daikin reps down there in California you should be able to reach out to. They should be able to help you out no problem.
You are welcome to email me. Though my assistance may be limited. If it does not turn on at all and also has no error codes, I'm not sure what to tell you. Have you made it to a blank screen or is your unit still flashing the small circles?
After about 7 years installing and starting Sanyo/Panasonic 3 way VRF, I'm now working with Daikin. I also enjoy start-up day most. Thanks!
Right on! At first I read your message and thought it said you're not working with Daikin and I was like "um, ok?" Lmao. Re-read it and am glad I did! Lol.
I love Daikin (clearly)
I'd also like to thank you. I just started a commissioning and service job specifically on daikin VRVs. Your vids are helping so much . I've worked on light commercial and resi and this new computer stuff is kinda driving me crazy but getting the hang of it. Not sure how I feel about working exclusively on these but it's cool stuff to learn
Thanks Drew! Glad these have helped you along the way
My man, I have just been put into a commissioning role at my company for our VRV installs. So glad to have found your content. Such clear and well planned steps, love the subtle music in the background too. Keep it up brother look forward to more content!!
Haha I watched a couple videos with ear buds the other day and felt overpowered by the music. Hope it isn't too loud for everyone ill might have to re-upload if it is. Glad it's helped you out though! That was my goal. None of the bs just heres how to do it and why/where/when/who etc like always lol.
@@InverterAlways I had earbuds in and the levels were sweet! Love your work!
@@thanktheknife ok cool thanks for the confirmation! I appreciate it and am glad you enjoyed the video.
Commissioning my job finally today 4 bs box 32 total fc 6 od units . This video is very very helpful
Awesome !! I'm getting ready to do a very similar on. 35 to 36 fc per system 6 systems. It's a big one for sure! Best of luck hope it goes smoothly for you today.
Getting ua 53 code all wires are landed right I’m sure . This is a 2 outdoor master and slave with 2 joined bs boxes
@@gambleezzzy916 US-53 means bs box dip switches don't match connected indoor units. check the indoor unit power to make sure nothing is powered off by mistake. then check bs wiring for each indoor. and verify correct dip switches are set. you'll need to kill power for 5 minutes, when you reboot hold return on vrviv for 20 seconds to reinitialize, or hold reset on vrviii for 20 seconds to reinitialize.
@@gambleezzzy916 if your wires are good then it's either power related or dip switch related. It's 1 of those 2 things so triple check your dip switches are set correctly. And go triple check power to all bs boxes and indoors.
You can count indoors from outdoor and ports to see how far its off and put the the system into forced fan to see which ones aren't running their fans. That'll tell you real quick which units aren't talking.
@@InverterAlways new issue fixed the other one. This says u4 03 verified wire from single indoor wires at od unit terminal to the od outside is good still getting code
Your videos make my job more easy
Awesome! Glad they have helped you!
Why would you put into forced fan?
You could just put into recovery mode and look for green lights on stats. Especially if you have a job where indoor units aren’t visible.
Thank you Dana, great info here
Video helped jog my memory 🙏🏽 thank you
No problem.
Great video, very informative!
Thanks man!
Amazing videos
Thanks Mike
So good job Bro.....
Hello . Im a daikin vrv installer. Im interested in daikin start up. Your videos are wonderful and i thank you . Can you post or send me the the video where you do the start up of both old and new vrv start up . Ok the steps i understod because you explain to good. But can you post a video where you do the whole procedure not in theory but pushing the functions . all the procedure step by step. if you have done that can you please send me that video.
Thank you
I'm in Jersey City NJ today to replace a control board someone else condemned.
I almost never condemn boards. I hope this is actually the problem
Hard to say, I guess it depends on the issue you're having.
Finaly they got a led segment display, instead of confusing crappy led flashing binary code
Bro your videos are very helpful.. thank you
Glad you like them!
@InverterAlways hey man send me a pm.. would love to have your info just in case I ever need some help.. and same to you.. been doing it 22yrs and would love to help yah back if yah ever need it.. my name is Josh.. here in Texas.. Thanks man for all you do
Excellent, thanks
How do remember each setting such as how you identify how many indoor units are connected?
I assume there is so many more settings for diagnostic purposes but I can't seem to find any useful info
Well, years and years of doing it over and over has helped a lot for sure. But I also refer to the installation manuals for each indoor unit. And Daikin also has literature that shows some general settings as well.
When you have multiple indoors it definitely requires closer focus, it's very important not to set the settings incorrectly from one style to another. Practice practice practice and make sure you always go from documentation to the stat.
One thing you can do ahead of time is male yourself a sheet at the office for each indoor style you have on site. Go through all your literature there and write down the settings you want to utilize for that job. That way on site uoure just following a page of notes, helps it go faster. The same is true for addressing, I always make an as built programming sheet to reference ahead of time so it takes the guessing out of it.
I am working on the dip switches I was having trouble of getting the correct amount of units. Once I did the Dip switch on the First bs (Ds2) 1 to on) I got the correct amount of units I have two branch boxes. When doing the dip switches Do I gotta Put on the DS2(A1P) (1To On?) Is the Joining A & b branch boxes? Do I also gotta Do the same to the other branch box Ds2(1 to on ) because now I Am getting error code UA-53 error code
Ds2 is for pairing two sets of ports together. A and b for example would be ds2 switch 1 yes. But you'd be best off working directly with your local vendor who should a set of drawings. That way you're covering your basis and not setting the wrong setting. Also. When you do change something make sure you do it with power off at the box. And when you reset the outdoor if it's vrv4 or vrvx, hold return for 20 seconds when you power it back on. That resets the unit count. If it's vrv3 then hold reset button instead for 20 seconds when you power the outdoor back on. Then redo your indoor count.
UA-53 is almost always mismatch indoor wiring to dip switch. It can also be power related. Check that all your indoors have power.
@@InverterAlways thank you for the info. It help me understand it more
If you replace a branch box for identical replacement, do you have to re address after? Since it’s not adding a new unit it’s same amount of Units?
I've only ever had to replace one branch box, they rarely fail. But I reset addressing just to be safe it takes all of 15 minutes. No idea if it would be "required" but figured I'd rather do it to be safe than spend more time doing it later when I find out it's needed lol.
I picked up a VRV IV for my Building, This was very helpfull. Curious if I could run some things by you?
@@InverterAlways Sending you and email..
Thanks I like yours videos
I'm getting a UF-05 code on my vrv system through all 8 units, what would you recommend to try and fix the issue?
Thank you for your time.
You have a branch box? If so you have a closed isolation valve. Or set of closed valves. Uf is usually no refrigerant temp change across indoor unit. System wide error so you'll need to check all of your isolation valves including the service ports ensure those got opened.
Nice video
Thank you
I have a way to find out the indoor unit which is not communicated to outdoor unit. You can use mode 2-21 and check the remote controller of each indoor unit. If indoor unit is not communicated to outdoor unit then remote controller will not display " Test operation " in mode 2-21.
Correct. You can do that too, I usually just put the system into forced fan. Either option is fine though 👍
Sparky should have picked up on reverse phase when he tested, cowboy
100 percent. But because we don't want anything powered until after refrigerant is added, we commonly don't see sparky checking each unit, our mechanical guys check during equipment power up. Is it right? I don't know. Just common from what I've seen.
hi i work in a school and have the Daikin system in it and 2 out of 6 indoor units say "under centralized control when they are not, i have just changed the settings as per your video but they still say it , just wondered if you have any ideas what i can do, thanks for the great video by the way
Do you have a central controller installed or a building management system? Usually on schools we put a central controller or some level of bacnet or lonworks controls in it for remote control and remote access.
If either are installed and set up with a schedule or any parameters that limit the controllers function it will be displayed. This can be as simple as setpoint restriction or scheduling.
Also note that when using t1t2 for auxiliary devices if not programmed correctly than it will say central control when they alarm. Good example is condensate pumps and float switches which are normally closed alarm points, get landed on t1t2 which by default is forced off, a normally open contact. As soon as it closed it forces off the unit and says central control.
Any of those things can cause it.
Hello, I have this unit RXYQ12T and I want to cool and heat (maybe under floor water heating) a residential building 169mp on one level and one garage 140 mp . The question now is, is it too big for this purpose? if i am gone attach Hxy125a for underfloor heating is it enough for heating the entire house in winter to 25 celsius? Thank you.
I woukd recommend having an engineer do a load Calc then select your unit based on that. Only safe way to do it since I'm not familiar with your design temps climate or other ETC
Hey Dana I’m on a job with 138 indoor units. What is the best way to commission this large of a system with only two techs?
Nice project!! Well, I guess step 1 get the itm powered up with expansion d3 adaptors and get all the stats programmed (addresses and field settings). If you don't already have a sheet then make one so that you have all the addresses written down as you go so you're not guessing or trying to remember.
Then port check. You can do 2 networks at a time if you've each got a laptop and service checker. Heat then parallel then full cool then fan test for indoor eev bleeds, finishing up that network of systems. Then move on to the next d3.
Then upload the itm program from laptop it'll go faster to pre program on laptop. Then do any bacnet and airnet engineering to wrap it all up.
I will probably do a video soon about this it's at the top of my list.
What if it doesn’t stop blinking??
Thanks 👍
No problem glad I could help
Dana, why am I getting u9 and u4 error codes on VRF 4 system only in middle of night. I came to my job this morning and all stats are blinking. My wiring looks good and if I reset it the equipment comes back online.
U4 is com error. U9 means there's an error on the system but not on the stat that's blinking the U9.
Regarding what triggers the U4 this can be a lot of stuff. An indoor or branch box or outdoor losing power (only takes one unit), could be a loose wire this happens a lot. Can also be the wrong type of wire, such as solid core instead or stranded. Solid sucks for communicating systems it needs to be stranded. Also check if it's shielded or not. If shielded (which we don't recommend), you need to make sure the shield is grounded at one end only otherwise it creates an antenna affect causing intermittent com issues. Shielded wire also reduces the total allowable length of wire on a network (collection of systems) from 6600 to about 5200 plus or minus. I had a job a couple years ago they ran shielded in most areas and albeit grounded it right, any time more equipment came on than what the network could handle it dropped out. Had 4 systems on it and it would run 2 no problem. Systen 3 or 4 comes on poof com errors everywhere it was a nightmare to trace out the cause. Split networks in half problem solved.
Not sure if that's your issue or not though.
The other thing to check for is proper daisy chain. Folks will sometimes splice or star or branch the wiring and none of that works. Must go from outdoor to branch box to branch box to erv. From each branch box port to respective indoor connected (this part is more like a home run from Port to indoor physically. And the box internally daisy's it sort to speak).
Why does it happen only at night is a great question. It's possible that something turns on and runs over night that doesn't run during the day and that operation causes the interference. Could be something on the vrv gear or something next to a unit that turns on and maybe that line voltage was ran too close or with the com wires. Gotta keep that stuff away from each other.
U4 is a pain sometimes especially on larger systems, just one of those things that takes some extra time to trace out. Hope this helps a little.
Yes
What happens when the three displays are fixed but do not turn off?
So you have three solid little circles that won't turn off? That means it couldn't initialize and you have an error code. Turn on your nav controllers to see what the error is. After much time (30 minutes or longer) the outdoor usually goes into error as well but it depends on the error I suppose. If you wait for 30 minutes and it never goes blank quickest way to find out is to turn on stats and see what the error is. U9 means go check a different stat by the way. Lots of them may say U9
@@InverterAlways Thank you. tomorrow check what you tell me.
Any idea why I would have 2 separate 1 to 1 daikin cassette units after running through the test operation seems to run fine but after it satisfies it doesn’t seem to want to come back on unless it’s set 5 degrees below actually temp? Shows no error codes on stat. Also looking in maintenance info it still shows U3 and doesn’t list indoor/outdoor model even tho it went through the test operation and didn’t seem to have any issues?
1 to 1 sky air split or vrvs? You have a nav hooked up? You need to change field settings to sense from stat. The u3 in the menu history is history someone just turned on the stat before testing anything. That's old. Any live codes blink green on/off button light.
Shouldn't have to set it 5 degrees below room temp to come on in cool mode though, may be delaying compressor since it has a 3 minute approximate minimum off time after running and shutting down. Not sure how long you're waiting between cycles. Also check your thermo-on deadband field setting.
@@InverterAlways 1 - 1 sky air “RZQ36TAVJUA” With a “FCQ36TAVJU” with the “BRC1E73” controller…. same issue with the “rzq/fcq30”. I changed the setting to use stat reading, changed dead band to 1* still same thing. It will be 74* in the space I’ll need to set the stat below 70* for it to come on it will cool the space down to set point and shut off. Climb back up to 74*.. with it being 2 separate systems doing the same thing I’m thinking there has to be something in the settings I’m missing just strange they both are acting the same way.
@@Itzmyke1 the unit shouldn't be shutting off the fan when it gets to setpoint unless you set the field setting for that to happen. Definitely strange though. Have you tried just running one of the systems and turning the other one off to see if there's any issues between the two maybe wiring related if they are right next to each other?
Fcq units. Do those come with the sensor built in similar to fxfq? If so umyou should disable the floor sensor field setting. Floor sensor will override/take priority of control over nav and return if not disabled. Try that. That may be what's going on. I believe it's mode 24 settings but you will want to triple check I don't have any of my stuff on me today to check. Will try to look later though.
@@Itzmyke1 mode 21 8-01 disables the floor sensor. Try that.
@@InverterAlways yes I changed the setting to disable fan when it is satisfied. I wanted to make sure it wasn’t just shutting the OD off and the indoor was running because of a call for cool. The indoor in fact doesn’t run at all when it’s satisfied and doesn’t come back on either. Yet no error codes come up at the stats.
I sir I have one problem in vrv 4 there is E09-03 alarm am replaced EEV and also main pcb but still alarm existing. Kindly help me get resolve this issue. 🙏
E9-03 is a bad connection at outdoor eev. Likely loose connector or cut wire. Or bad eev motor. There are a few of these eev coils though depending if you have a heat pump or heat recovery so verify ohm reading on each. Service manual and service app called daikin hub have the step by step to check the coils and ohm amountz.
How do I suspend the master control board and run the slave if the master board is faulty?
Yes the second unit board is ok. After transferring f1 and f2 how do I convert the slave to master which code? And how do I lock out the other unit.
Hi I am from Sri Lanka sir if master unit is faulty can we on s1 s2 and start vrv
Master is leack hi presher sw.
mister, how to refill Hitachi vrf refrigerant
Are you asking how to charge a Hitachi system with refrigerant? Pull the system into a proper deep vacuum then weigh in the calculated amount that needs to be added. On Hitachi vrf you can create a com error by removing the com wire amd it will open all the expansion valves so you can pull the proper vacuum.
My name is Mohamed Al-Sadiq, maintenance technician and vrv faults, I am looking for a job. Do you have a job for me currently and ready for a test?
Unfortunately at this time I do not. There's lots of folks looking for experiences techs though so good luck in the sesrch!
Hey Dana, can you come to my work site? it is in military base southern California.
No, sorry, however there are multiple daikin reps down there in California you should be able to reach out to. They should be able to help you out no problem.
I am ac technician from India
Cool! 😎
I honestly enjoy your videos but Please loose the music.
Can’t focus.
Sorry. Haven't used much music on the channel this was just one of those videos that got it added.
Thank you Sir.
Your videos are great.
U top men.
The music is so annoying.
Sorry
how can i contact you i have problem in my vrv system , my problem is it can’t turn on after all of that and it have no problem code
You are welcome to email me. Though my assistance may be limited. If it does not turn on at all and also has no error codes, I'm not sure what to tell you. Have you made it to a blank screen or is your unit still flashing the small circles?
Hi do you have a contact email?
On the main channel page yes about me section. Only shows up on browser pages though not in app.