obelix. Faites pipi pour moi pendant que vous y êtes. Ha haa ... je plaisante, je viens de faire pipi sur le porche arrière. ... google traduction français
I learned how to build um and put um together from my father in-law. He is gone now. He liked to use STP and motor oil mixed together on the rotating assembly. Said, if you had to leave it sit for a long time before you fired it up you are good to go. He was from Harrisville MS. Bubba Mullins. Good man RIP. You remind me a lot of him Bob.
Yep ... I've done that too ... STP and motor oil makes excellent assembly lube. Lucas and oil works too. I didn't use that on this engine just straight 20w50 with zink ... it's slick as Gorilla snot.
Nothin better when the engine starts to go together that's the halfway point for me, knowing that gets me reinvigorated to finish my project. I hope it's the same for you Mr. Bob!!!!!
Now this is something I have done, so I can really relate. Man, those KB pistons are beautiful. Excellent work Mr. Bob. Looking forward to the rest of the build.
I just wanted to say I've watched a lot of engine building videos and yours is by far the most understandable up to this point. I will be rebuilding my first engine within the next month or so so thanks for the help man! It's just gonna be a ol 350!
Just the way I do it. I still have some plastic gauge my father give me when started building engines when I was 13 years old. My first was a Ford 6 cylinder. I'm 56 now working on a 350 4 bolt main for my 74 k10 4×4.
Ah .... been there and done that huh! I'm the same way watching others videos of things I've done .... brings back memories and I feel like I'm right there amongst it.
@@RatRodBobBuilds I'm 78 years young now but I cherish every chance I get to go back to the good old days. Back when you didn't have UA-cam to teach the skills.
nothing like learning from the masters, grew up with that, Dad once he had it back together he would rotate the rolling assemble while having a set of beers with oil being applied until he thought it was good, to ensure the rings are starting to set there position he would say.
I love building engines, but at the same time it can be nerve racking knowing the endless things to double check and what can happen if you don't. Dan at DD had his lifters take out the cam, incorrectly machined base on several of them from Comp Cams. Just watched him pull it back out. Due diligence with todays parts!!! You got this!
Great video. Lots of info and tips. Loved it. Love to see old/conventional motors being put together and then fired up. LS/Coyotes, etc. have their place but I'm old school. Look forward to the next one. Be safe and stay well.
Hey Bawb, Just like i was taught in school. You make it look so eazy, no wonder Red sat this one out!!! Lookin' like you might have this one in time for turkey day.
You mean Turkey Day 2023 right? Ha haa ... shooting for Christmas but I still have a ton of work to do and my body keeps saying ... you idiot, take the rest of the day off with pay.
Personally I like to stab the camshaft in before dropping the crank in one final time--that way you can reach inside the crankcase to guide 'er thru the bearings instead of trying to do with with leverage at one end of the camshaft. As for checking piston ring gaps or installing valve seats on a head, distorting the block or head with a torque plate means you've got things set up the way they are when the block is complete. but no one has a torque plate, so grab a stack of washers or an old wrist pin and torque 'em around the cylinder you're working on to replicate the distortion. when pushing in the piston, turn the block around so the deck you're working on is level with the ground--might as well let gravity be your friend. Use a fish scale to pull down each piston and connecting rod--if a ring is hanging up the different measurement on the scale will warn you right quick.
Thanks Albert. That's some good advice and on the cam installation I usually install it before the crank too but this time I forgot. Not the end of the world, deal with it and move on.
@@RatRodBobBuilds I hear you, as the Rangers say, FIDO. Engine stands are really universal tools--I've used 'em to install shift kits in automatic transmissions while sitting in a comfy seat, use a pair as a body shell rotisserie and some rear axle repairs and as a welding stand for large awkward items I wanted to be able to roll around 360 degrees. the trick is to bolt the attachment to your part and then use an engine hoist to get it up in the air and roll the engine stand over and slip 'em together. I'm a one-man band garage and learned to work smart not hard :)
Coming together nicely Bob. Going to make a good driver. You would think if Red wasn’t going to help at least he could bring you something cold to drink instead of just sitting there 🤣🤣🤣. See you on the next one ✌️😎👍
Thank you Bob! Im building a couple 454's and to save thousands im doing it myself. Well, hopefully it saves me money and lasts. 😂😂 i will be watching this vid a few times for the basics. Thank you so much for this vid!🤘🏻👊🏻🤘🏻✌️
Thank you for the video I'm going to redo my old Caddy this winter and I need all the extra help I can get. The motor only has sixty thousand on it but it's been setting since 89 and I took the heads off and had a couple intake valves bent and an exhaust valve bent . So i thought i might as well rebuild it just to be safe
I was watching this and thinking how great it would be if on your electric impact wrench if you could set the torque, just turn it up to 95 and it would automatically stop there. That would be pretty awesome. Lol Looks like you’re definitely getting it.
Actually they make torque extensions for an impact. Looks like a regular extension but it gives/twists and a certain torque ... weird . They have them for different torques and mostly used to torque lug nuts. I never tried them but I need too!
At 18:23 it would be a good idea to push a little piece of rubber hose on the rod bolts before installing the piston to keep from Galling the crankshaft journals
Just imagine the moonshiners,,back in the day ,, they hot the cars up with bugger all ,,couple of spanners ,,and a lot of luck,lol😂 no fancy pants tools like we got ,,and they still made hp,,
Those guys knew their stuff. Hey Joe .... I got your big block ready and I think you'll be real happy with it. Ain't no cops gonna keep up with ya for sure.
Ring squeezer, I love your terms Bob. Awesome build. I was told to weigh my pistons and rods to make sure they are close to the same weight. You think that’s necessary Bob?
High RPM race engines, probably. But you'll have to get the complete rotating assembly balanced to make it perfect. I'll let you know if my engine has any vibrations from changing the pistons. I do know that when machinist balance the rotating assembly the weigh everything even down to the wrist pin clips. Rebuilders have forever bored engines and changed pistons without rebalancing. I did ask Dennis (my machinist) if the new pistons would throw it off balance and he said I should be fine.
Man I ain't done nothing like that in years, I helped my old man build several smallblock Chevys and by several I mean like 5 of them, and just right here in our basement. Haha and the block sitting on on them furniture moving carts, one of those little roll around things you know, and we did everything to the engines, just sitting on that little cart thing. But yeah we never had no problems with any of the engines we built. First one we built, or rebuilt actually, was a 283, and that's been many many moons ago and the last engine me and him did was a 350, and that one we put just a little bigger than stock cam in it, we put that in a old 71 Chevy truck and it was still in it whenever he sold it, the truck, a few years later. No I take that back, that wasn't a 350, the last one we did that went in that truck was a smallblock 400, that's engine that was in it whenever I bought the truck, we just rebuilt it and made it just a little bigger than stock. And that was one of my brother in law's that he sold the truck too and he drove it for 3 or 4 years with that same engine in it until he sold it.
Also, if you can't afford plastiguage, common blank paper (not the thick bond stuff a lawyer uses) is the same thickness as the clearance you want on the crank. tear it into three small sheets and lay it between crank and upper main cap at the 10 o clock, 12 and 2 o clock position. If you find you don't get an even pull from all three, you just found the spot where your main bearings or cap are hanging up the crank and needs addressing.
Real men are a dying breed, this is a smart, tough, badass ole sum bitch. "Don't need to be that long but that's as long as it is" best quote I heard all year.
I dont think the staggering of the seal really matters. Im guilty of it i did it for yrs, but if you really think about the crush of that seal butts and presses those ends together and if those joints leak it aint gonna matter if its lined up with the cap/block seam or not.
No disrespect to RRB in anyway here ... the said 2 PC rear main seal was made a bit larger at mating halves to allow 'crush' to seal so to speak . Back in the day the original seal was actually rope ... Bob remembers these and the canister oil filter roll of toilet paper was all the rage for filtering oil in those mouse engines ... since those days of weeping 2 PC rear mains leaking - companies mainly Fel Pro and Victor Reinz made new sealing techniques with siliconized rubber
Life is good when bob puts out a new video .
Non il faut que j’aille pisser
obelix. Faites pipi pour moi pendant que vous y êtes. Ha haa ... je plaisante, je viens de faire pipi sur le porche arrière. ... google traduction français
The second I saw an old dude in coveralls and a Jegs hat, I knew I had landed on the right channel.
A video of this type has been sorely missing from youtube
I learned how to build um and put um together from my father in-law. He is gone now. He liked to use STP and motor oil mixed together on the rotating assembly. Said, if you had to leave it sit for a long time before you fired it up you are good to go. He was from Harrisville MS. Bubba Mullins. Good man RIP. You remind me a lot of him Bob.
Yep ... I've done that too ... STP and motor oil makes excellent assembly lube. Lucas and oil works too. I didn't use that on this engine just straight 20w50 with zink ... it's slick as Gorilla snot.
Nothing better than a Big Block Chevy ... and Bob's videos of course !
Can't wait to hear her run.👍😊🌄
Soon .... well, soon for me means maybe this month ... LOL 👀
It’s always nice to see people stay busy
It's not about who you are or where you come from it's about know how and having the right tools
Man I can listen to Bob all damn day✌️
Bob is the best so far I watch him for a very long time
Nothing better than a good teacher 💯
Alright,new vid.Made my evening. 👍 👍
Thanks for the video. I worked Cummins Engine Co. rodding engines. Bring back memories!
You make it look easy Bob.
Always enjoy watching RAT ROD BOB!
All I can say Bob is WOW that is a beautiful thing and also my mouth is waterin'
Nothin better when the engine starts to go together that's the halfway point for me, knowing that gets me reinvigorated to finish my project. I hope it's the same for you Mr. Bob!!!!!
Now this is something I have done, so I can really relate. Man, those KB pistons are beautiful. Excellent work Mr. Bob. Looking forward to the rest of the build.
It's a shame to have to put those pistons in there where they'll never be seen again. There are really easy on the eyes.
@@RatRodBobBuilds Yeah...
@@RatRodBobBuilds The only time you don't want to see a piston is if it threw a leg outa bed!
Well Hell I figured Red was going to help with the build.
Reds just sitting there looking in the distance. Wonder what he’s thinking about ?😎
He really looks dazed and confused. I'll talk to him.
I just wanted to say I've watched a lot of engine building videos and yours is by far the most understandable up to this point. I will be rebuilding my first engine within the next month or so so thanks for the help man! It's just gonna be a ol 350!
Cool, thanks!
Not many things look better going back together than a fresh bottom end... so clean 👍
Thanks brother.
It's not every day you can compliment another man's bottom end
@@RadRob84- stopped by, too bad no video's
@@TheCanadianBubba Sorry Bubba, I might upload content someday. I haven't found my purpose yet.
A person can learn alot from you Bob, great Video
Love the old timers no one does it better
Bob I don't know what to say that was simply just poetry in motion man oh man what a great video kudos sir
I appreciate it
Just the way I do it. I still have some plastic gauge my father give me when started building engines when I was 13 years old. My first was a Ford 6 cylinder. I'm 56 now working on a 350 4 bolt main for my 74 k10 4×4.
Awesome stuff Bob!
I’m thinking about doing my own this is good inspiration
Awesomeness once again
Great stuff Bob. You do nice work in that little shop where dreams can come true and you do a great job of getting it all on video. Thanks again.
Very good video Bob.
Awesome video Bob !
This was probably the most informative video I've seen about the topic.
Great job showing us how it's done!
Great job Bob!
Great video Bob !!!!
Your a life saver Rat Rod Bob thanks
Nice memories Bob.
Ah .... been there and done that huh! I'm the same way watching others videos of things I've done .... brings back memories and I feel like I'm right there amongst it.
@@RatRodBobBuilds I'm 78 years young now but I cherish every chance I get to go back to the good old days. Back when you didn't have UA-cam to teach the skills.
BoB watching you putting that engine together Im thinking your one Mitty fine mechanic . Cheers . 😵💫🛻🛠👍🤠
That smash Guage is great stuff...love simple tools that get the job Done!!! Nice job.
Yes ... now I have to find something to check valve to piston clearance next. Too bad my kids are grown and there's no playdough laying around.
I pulled the 283 outta my 39 I'm going with the Keith Black pistons also,saving up for some more parts before heading to the machine shop
Thanks
nothing like learning from the masters, grew up with that, Dad once he had it back together he would rotate the rolling assemble while having a set of beers with oil being applied until he thought it was good, to ensure the rings are starting to set there position he would say.
That's exactly what I was feeling turning that engine, getting the rings in a happy place.
Thank you Bob,for another great video...
I love building engines, but at the same time it can be nerve racking knowing the endless things to double check and what can happen if you don't. Dan at DD had his lifters take out the cam, incorrectly machined base on several of them from Comp Cams. Just watched him pull it back out. Due diligence with todays parts!!!
You got this!
Great video. Lots of info and tips. Loved it. Love to see old/conventional motors being put together and then fired up. LS/Coyotes, etc. have their place but I'm old school. Look forward to the next one. Be safe and stay well.
Awesome job with instructions on engine assembly . I like the details on which way parts are assembled👍
Thank you sir ! So glad to find you
Hey Bawb, Just like i was taught in school. You make it look so eazy, no wonder Red sat this one out!!! Lookin' like you might have this one in time for turkey day.
You mean Turkey Day 2023 right? Ha haa ... shooting for Christmas but I still have a ton of work to do and my body keeps saying ... you idiot, take the rest of the day off with pay.
Awesome job, it's certainly getting there, but better to do all once then in a rush, all the best to you and your loved ones
Love your engine building videos!
Personally I like to stab the camshaft in before dropping the crank in one final time--that way you can reach inside the crankcase to guide 'er thru the bearings instead of trying to do with with leverage at one end of the camshaft. As for checking piston ring gaps or installing valve seats on a head, distorting the block or head with a torque plate means you've got things set up the way they are when the block is complete. but no one has a torque plate, so grab a stack of washers or an old wrist pin and torque 'em around the cylinder you're working on to replicate the distortion. when pushing in the piston, turn the block around so the deck you're working on is level with the ground--might as well let gravity be your friend. Use a fish scale to pull down each piston and connecting rod--if a ring is hanging up the different measurement on the scale will warn you right quick.
Thanks Albert. That's some good advice and on the cam installation I usually install it before the crank too but this time I forgot. Not the end of the world, deal with it and move on.
@@RatRodBobBuilds I hear you, as the Rangers say, FIDO. Engine stands are really universal tools--I've used 'em to install shift kits in automatic transmissions while sitting in a comfy seat, use a pair as a body shell rotisserie and some rear axle repairs and as a welding stand for large awkward items I wanted to be able to roll around 360 degrees. the trick is to bolt the attachment to your part and then use an engine hoist to get it up in the air and roll the engine stand over and slip 'em together. I'm a one-man band garage and learned to work smart not hard :)
WHAT A MASTER!!!!👍🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Great video. Thanks for sharing your tips and tricks 😀 👍.
Coming together nicely Bob. Going to make a good driver. You would think if Red wasn’t going to help at least he could bring you something cold to drink instead of just sitting there 🤣🤣🤣. See you on the next one ✌️😎👍
Yea gonna have find Red something to do besides watching me work. LOL
Good stuff Bob, can’t wait to here that Big Block roar to life….Nothin like American muscle! 🇺🇸
That first crank should be awesome. FIRE IN THE HOLE!
hey campesino sureño eres un joyero con los motores y los fierros me gustan tus videos un saludo desde francia !!
A lot of good information Bob.
Thank you Bob! Im building a couple 454's and to save thousands im doing it myself. Well, hopefully it saves me money and lasts. 😂😂 i will be watching this vid a few times for the basics. Thank you so much for this vid!🤘🏻👊🏻🤘🏻✌️
Thanks for the video Bob it really helps when we are trying to learn this stuff to be able to do it ourselves..
I can relate, so satisfying.
That ring spreader is the only kind I've ever had.
Great videos as always thanks Bob made my night as well
Thank you for the video I'm going to redo my old Caddy this winter and I need all the extra help I can get. The motor only has sixty thousand on it but it's been setting since 89 and I took the heads off and had a couple intake valves bent and an exhaust valve bent . So i thought i might as well rebuild it just to be safe
After you get those pesky heads fixed you should be able to just hone it and re-ring and bearing it. That is, if it's been loved.
I like the dail pointer t. q. Wrench they work.
Awesome video can’t wait for the next one.
COOL it s been a long time since i bult my 350 working on a ls
I was watching this and thinking how great it would be if on your electric impact wrench if you could set the torque, just turn it up to 95 and it would automatically stop there. That would be pretty awesome. Lol
Looks like you’re definitely getting it.
Actually they make torque extensions for an impact. Looks like a regular extension but it gives/twists and a certain torque ... weird . They have them for different torques and mostly used to torque lug nuts. I never tried them but I need too!
@@RatRodBobBuilds i got some of those. Theyre different colors for different torque levels.
At 18:23 it would be a good idea to push a little piece of rubber hose on the rod bolts before installing the piston to keep from Galling the crankshaft journals
I agree everyone should do that. Don't take chances like me!
Thanks Bob 👍
Very interesting. Thanks for sharing.
Yes Sir. Thats the way I was taught to do it.
I think you did a fine job. Thanks.
Earned a sub, thank you breaking it down even more for me!
Awesome, thank you!
I've always checked each journal on every motor it's just right or its wrong
Looking good Bob
Doin er right bawb, I'm diggin it
Thanks for sharing...Nice beam torque wrench. What brand is it?
Not sure but it does the job.
@@RatRodBobBuildsThanks for the reply. Was just curious. I use a 1/2" drive Craftsman from 1973. Like your beam, it gets the job done.
Big Block = Power!!!
This is true. But they're not very good at passing up gas stations. LOL
I thought the mighty big little 400 SBC was it ... until a dragster race car fellow got me obsessed with the canted valve Big Blocks ...
Awesome video Bob
Plastic tubing over the threads of the piston about 3" long makes a guide over the crank journal. Keeps from scratching the surface.
Great tips as usual Bob 👍
Nothin to it, But to do it!
See ya next time.....
Really good video thanks Bob.
Looking good Bob. Great job 👍👍🇨🇱
Yelp. That's how I was taught. Love putting those engines together. 👍 👍
I've been waiting for you to do a video like this. Thank you bob
You mean the engine build or just a serious video in general instead of goofing off with Red?
@@RatRodBobBuilds the engine build. I always wanted to build an engine from start to finish.
Just imagine the moonshiners,,back in the day ,, they hot the cars up with bugger all ,,couple of spanners ,,and a lot of luck,lol😂 no fancy pants tools like we got ,,and they still made hp,,
Those guys knew their stuff. Hey Joe .... I got your big block ready and I think you'll be real happy with it. Ain't no cops gonna keep up with ya for sure.
Saw Elvira by your back wall and subscribed! I’m enjoying your content but Elvira was what pulled me in to check out your channel 😁🇺🇸
Mistress of the dark. She's a looker now for sure!
"Just because I can and I want to" Yep!
Love it Bob
Ring squeezer, I love your terms Bob. Awesome build. I was told to weigh my pistons and rods to make sure they are close to the same weight. You think that’s necessary Bob?
High RPM race engines, probably. But you'll have to get the complete rotating assembly balanced to make it perfect. I'll let you know if my engine has any vibrations from changing the pistons. I do know that when machinist balance the rotating assembly the weigh everything even down to the wrist pin clips. Rebuilders have forever bored engines and changed pistons without rebalancing. I did ask Dennis (my machinist) if the new pistons would throw it off balance and he said I should be fine.
Great episode Bob. This is my favorite content. I like when you get straight to business. Many thx. 👍
Engine building is serious business ... can't be fooling around with that.
Man I ain't done nothing like that in years, I helped my old man build several smallblock Chevys and by several I mean like 5 of them, and just right here in our basement. Haha and the block sitting on on them furniture moving carts, one of those little roll around things you know, and we did everything to the engines, just sitting on that little cart thing. But yeah we never had no problems with any of the engines we built. First one we built, or rebuilt actually, was a 283, and that's been many many moons ago and the last engine me and him did was a 350, and that one we put just a little bigger than stock cam in it, we put that in a old 71 Chevy truck and it was still in it whenever he sold it, the truck, a few years later. No I take that back, that wasn't a 350, the last one we did that went in that truck was a smallblock 400, that's engine that was in it whenever I bought the truck, we just rebuilt it and made it just a little bigger than stock. And that was one of my brother in law's that he sold the truck too and he drove it for 3 or 4 years with that same engine in it until he sold it.
I always put rubber hose on the rod bolts
Yes ... that works too! Whatever it takes to keep the rod bolts from bangin on the crankshaft.
Also, if you can't afford plastiguage, common blank paper (not the thick bond stuff a lawyer uses) is the same thickness as the clearance you want on the crank. tear it into three small sheets and lay it between crank and upper main cap at the 10 o clock, 12 and 2 o clock position. If you find you don't get an even pull from all three, you just found the spot where your main bearings or cap are hanging up the crank and needs addressing.
My Ford ranger has a 357w that is almost 11.5-1 and runs great on 93
Real men are a dying breed, this is a smart, tough, badass ole sum bitch. "Don't need to be that long but that's as long as it is" best quote I heard all year.
My local machine shop said using plastigauge is like using a wooden yardstick to check for oil clearance.
Yes of course. You should bring yours to the machine shop.
I dont think the staggering of the seal really matters. Im guilty of it i did it for yrs, but if you really think about the crush of that seal butts and presses those ends together and if those joints leak it aint gonna matter if its lined up with the cap/block seam or not.
No disrespect to RRB in anyway here ... the said 2 PC rear main seal was made a bit larger at mating halves to allow 'crush' to seal so to speak . Back in the day the original seal was actually rope ... Bob remembers these and the canister oil filter roll of toilet paper was all the rage for filtering oil in those mouse engines ... since those days of weeping 2 PC rear mains leaking - companies mainly Fel Pro and Victor Reinz made new sealing techniques with siliconized rubber