Hey Bawb. Long time watcher first time commentor on any channel. From one old school guy to another I appreciate what you're doin. here is some food for thought. I went and checked out that D ans D garage and he doesn't seem like a bad kid. Couldn't believe he was the same.e guy you was talking about in your videos. Doesn't do it how a lot of us old timers do, but he's out there doing it. He's a guy in a small garage working and trying to figure stuff out. Doesn't look like he's said a bad thing about anyone either, stays in his lane and does what he does. Ain't harmin nobody. Just doing what a lot of young guys wanna do, build cars. I think you gotta accept not everyone likes what everyone does but we all love cars. Just one old guys opinion.
I'm in agreement. I'm sure he's a nice guy and probably a joy to be around. I rooted for him when he was "rising to fame" and asked questions and posted some really nice comments on his videos. Never once got a reply or even a heart click from him which was fine even though I reply to lots of comments as I'm replying to yours now. Maybe it's just me but the one thing I hate the most on UA-cam is clickbait thumbnails, the ones that suggest one thing but the video is a anything but. So he started posting clickbait thumbnails (in my opinion) and I overlooked it until he posted his "I'm Closing Shop" thumbnail and then bragged in at least one video how much he's liking his clickbait. That was the straw that broke the camels back for me and so I reckon I lost it. I was disappointed that the channel I once watched and liked would do the one thing I hate the most. So I apologize to Dan and all concerned. I should have have kept my disappointment to myself. Still trying to get used to being a public figure.
Great of you to show the processes Bob, somebody that has never done it might step up, learn something, and save a few bucks 👍 We all had to start somewhere !
When I hear that intro music, "Pa I'm home." Bob did that auto transmission like ' who slung the chunk' the other day. Thanks Bob. Some folks miss the little stuff and you showed them a thang or two.
I think it’s really cool how you have demonstrated that this can be done with relatively simple tools, plastigage, feeler gauges, digital caliper and a dial indicator.
Thank God your so knowlegeable about engines doing it just like I do , Not like that Dumb Dumb speed shop that ruined his cam and big block🤣Keep on going Bob your doing great !!!
Good stuff Bob, better than factory. I appreciate following along watching the procedure and picking up pointers, a lot of it is common sense really, but you always learn something. Stay safe.
Fantastic classroom video Bob! Loved watching you and listening to you. Only other thing I do is turn head upside down and pour water in the chamber to check for leakage, air bubbles, etc.
Good video Bob. Glad your showing this. I have a hard time convincing customers to check this and the machining that is sometimes necessary. I usually add .060 to the lift number for a safety margin. I usually use rotator eliminators and get rid of the rotators. Good job. Take care, Ed.
I don't think you left any details out, it's great to be sure everything is going to play nice together, great job Bawb, can't wait to hear it fire but make sure nothing flammable is behind it 😂
Good stuff Bob, you truly are a wealth of good useful knowledge, a person could learn alot by just hangin around wth you, oh wait, we are! Thx for bringin us along!
When I built the motor for my Chevelle I used the Oval port heads, all my race buddies said rectangle ports wouldn't make enough bottom end. I ended up with so much low end torque I couldn't get traction, 3000 stall convertor didn't help, should have used 2500 stall or a rectangle port head on mine, sure was a fun car though. The truck is gonna be mean and tons of fun to drive I'm sure!
Hey Bob with all the problems of cams and lifters these days I would double check to make sure the lifters are rotating in the bore before you slap the intake on. Great video as always I can't wait to hear this thing run🤟
@@RatRodBobBuilds one would like to think but I literally pulled two lifters from the pack I got from Comp cams put them on my surface plate and ran a surface gauge over them. Two were flat!! Some have surface starring and two of them had knicks to the edges right out of the box. Ran the indicator over the cam and it is the minimal amount of taper .0015. these cheap Chinese lifters are junk I'm going with the GM ones now. Good luck.
@@ogt92fromthe1step9 I just had the same problem with a Summit Racing hydraulic flat tappet Cam/ Lifter kit. Ripped them out BEFORE they destroyed the engine (200 miles) and I'm now waiting for a new Howards Hydraulic Roller cam to come. It wasn't cheap, but I'm hoping that I can put it in, break it in and forget about it like the good old days.
Sorry Tony, I stopped watching Dan when he started putting up clickbait thumbnails. Many things could cause cam damage on break in. Some folks have good engine building skills in their DNA and some don't.
@@RatRodBobBuilds Unfortunately, even if you follow all the cam installation rules to the letter: ample cam lube; Zinc in the oil; break in procedure; oil change after break in; etc...the Chinese parts simply fail. My Summiit Racing hydraulic flat tappet cam lasted about 200 miles. I recently inspected the lifters and several were warn really bad already, so I pulled the cam out. I'm presently waiting for a Howards Hydraulic Roller Cam from Jegs to put it back together. It was 5X the cost of the Summit cam and lifters, but it's 100% made in the USA with hardness QC inspection.
I see those valve lifts are based on a 1.76 rocker arm ratio. Never seen one of those, most are 1.7(ish) and under, unless you pay bigger money for something more spot on or custom for your build.
Hi Bob: I agree pretty much on your engine build flick but would like to take it a little farther: I have been building performance & race engines for over 55 years till the LS ,not got into that much yet. Only had one to blow on the round track with a broken cam! I always say this: before hot tanking remove all passage plugs, freeze plugs & cam bearings to allow all machining & old oil sludge to flow out. After that put two 2x4 block in bottom of a metal tub & set the block vertical swab all oil bores out with bore brushes mounted on a metal rod long enough to pass trough length of block with 1/3 mineral sprits 2/3 Gunk liquid this ratio will mix well with water that you next wash out passages. Then air hose all passages out if you are ready to assy. don,t worry about flash rust, if block is to sit awhile squirt thin oil in passages.If you do this you will be amazed of the junk that will come out into the cleaning tub!
I love your channel I’ve learned a lot. Sorry to hear about your merch problem. I’ve watched all your builds so far. Looking forward to seeing this one complete too. Do you have another build lined up for after this one?
I always put intake and exhaust rockers on and put play dough on the piston and turn it over by hand to check valve clearance instead of just lifting it up and down
look watch listen and learn its free and besides the company isn't bad either MIGHT just get a chuckle or two thanks Bob your videos are true Americana Know How thanks for passin it on.
You need to watch Uncle Tony and d&d garage they both have problems with flat tappet cams you need to mark them push rods to make sure they're turning when you turn the motor over
Yes ... mild low end torque cam, which is what I was shooting for. But it does have lots more lift and duration than the stock cam. I checked the compression before the first crank and it ranged from 180-190.
I never was really impressed about dyno numbers as much as I'm impressed by the "seat of your pants" feel in the ride ... the sound of the engine and such. By watching many other dyno videos and comparing those to the parts I have installed I would guess this engine to be in the 400hp range. Just a guess and probably not even close.
Looks good. I overheated my 454 in my k5 doing burnouts at car show couple years ago... what do you think is best way to check it out? I am going to do a compression test first...
Those are not peanut port heads they say PASS for passenger car. The peanut port head is way smaller and they say TRUCK on them. They usually came on tow trucks. The BB's came with a lot of different types of heads a few Cast and a few Aluminum 75lbs lighter. Even the casting numbers can make a difference to compression and flow.
Hi sir I truly appreciate your videos, enjoy watching your creative mind at work! One question do you believe DD speed shop Dan f**ked up the installation of the cam and lifters on his engine?
Bobbie that's not yes or no lol. Your somebody from the circuit. Hell you spit out things that I still look up in old old Melanie's books . My Grand Dad had old books . From 1930 to 60s lol
I like the anthem man I’m dealing with a Wiped out lobe on my cam not sure what it is yet could The one thing you just showed with the spring Tolerance of at least 61,000 my engine is a small block 350 200 cc runners 72cc chambers 4way valve job comp roller rockers manly push rods carburetor is a 650 Holley off-road avenger distributor is all acell the clutch is the center force headers or Doug thorly I believe the plugs are a cell one size hotter the alternator is 130 amp at idle rear ends 373s 205 gear case 4-speed new process The heads are dart iron eagle heads
@@DonCatherman Not sure I bought it this way no it’s winter time in Minnesota so I do not have a garage or shop all my work is done outside so will have to wait until spring probably pull intake valve covers to start digging around
@@DonCatherman I did not build a motor I do not build motors All I know is I have a 350 that is tapping to beat hill on the top end previous owner said probably cam lobe
@@patricksettle- You could pull the valve cover and maybe see just by looking which cylinder is having the issue. if one part of the valvetrain looks different to the others that is the problem. If the clacking and banging is loud it should be very evident which one it is. Could be as simple as a busted rocker or push rod... you never know till you dig in. Film it ! You need a video or two up anyways 👍
Hey Bawb. Long time watcher first time commentor on any channel. From one old school guy to another I appreciate what you're doin. here is some food for thought. I went and checked out that D ans D garage and he doesn't seem like a bad kid. Couldn't believe he was the same.e guy you was talking about in your videos. Doesn't do it how a lot of us old timers do, but he's out there doing it. He's a guy in a small garage working and trying to figure stuff out. Doesn't look like he's said a bad thing about anyone either, stays in his lane and does what he does. Ain't harmin nobody. Just doing what a lot of young guys wanna do, build cars. I think you gotta accept not everyone likes what everyone does but we all love cars. Just one old guys opinion.
I'm in agreement. I'm sure he's a nice guy and probably a joy to be around. I rooted for him when he was "rising to fame" and asked questions and posted some really nice comments on his videos. Never once got a reply or even a heart click from him which was fine even though I reply to lots of comments as I'm replying to yours now.
Maybe it's just me but the one thing I hate the most on UA-cam is clickbait thumbnails, the ones that suggest one thing but the video is a anything but. So he started posting clickbait thumbnails (in my opinion) and I overlooked it until he posted his "I'm Closing Shop" thumbnail and then bragged in at least one video how much he's liking his clickbait. That was the straw that broke the camels back for me and so I reckon I lost it. I was disappointed that the channel I once watched and liked would do the one thing I hate the most.
So I apologize to Dan and all concerned. I should have have kept my disappointment to myself. Still trying to get used to being a public figure.
We need more old school people like you thsnks
I'm 69. Built many types of engines cause I couldn't afford a new car. But I'm a master like you. Had to. Love ya man.
Great of you to show the processes Bob, somebody that has never done it might step up, learn something, and save a few bucks 👍 We all had to start somewhere !
ENGINE REPAIR LESSON #2 THE HEADS. I LEARNED A NEW METHOD FROM YOU ON THIS VIDEO, MR. BOB. THANK YOU.
When I hear that intro music, "Pa I'm home."
Bob did that auto transmission like ' who slung the chunk' the other day.
Thanks Bob. Some folks miss the little stuff and you showed them a thang or two.
Nice job Bob 👍😎
Excellent video Bob ! I think you should be nominated for gear head educator of the year !
Nice to see someone doing this without wearing a labcoat and without installing parts from texas speed for $20000.
Great job Bob :)
Lookin' good, can't wait to hear that big block thumpin'!!! She going sweet ride Bob!!!
You work and take care of business thank you for the video's Bob
I think it’s really cool how you have demonstrated that this can be done with relatively simple tools, plastigage, feeler gauges, digital caliper and a dial indicator.
This is one of the best videos you have made I really like it thank you for posting it
Absolutely love old school
Thank God your so knowlegeable about engines doing it just like I do , Not like that Dumb Dumb speed shop that ruined his cam and big block🤣Keep on going Bob your doing great !!!
Always great insight. Thanks for reminding it ain't rocket appliance!
Good job, you deserve a raise.
Great video Bob. You are the best teacher out there. I truly enjoy all these videos. From the Falcon to the Gator. I enjoy them all.
Just picked up on your channel, I really enjoy the narative. And I am a BIG BLOCK fan. As the wise man said, there is no substitute for cubic inches.
Amazing Video Bob, THAT Powerplant's Gonna GROWL BIG-TIME 🤗🤗 Have a Blessed Wknd Buddy 🤗🤗 Gary.
Good stuff Bob, better than factory. I appreciate following along watching the procedure and picking up pointers, a lot of it is common sense really, but you always learn something. Stay safe.
That was a great tutorial Bob, muchly appreciated
Coming along great, all the best to you and your loved ones
Fantastic classroom video Bob! Loved watching you and listening to you. Only other thing I do is turn head upside down and pour water in the chamber to check for leakage, air bubbles, etc.
Good video Bob.
Glad your showing this.
I have a hard time convincing customers to check this and the machining that is sometimes necessary.
I usually add .060 to the lift number for a safety margin.
I usually use rotator eliminators and get rid
of the rotators.
Good job.
Take care, Ed.
Why do you need rotators? I think Bob only put them under the exhaust springs.
Great job.. it's looking good Bob 👍👍🇨🇱
Well done Bob!!! It's going to be a tire turner for sure!! Thanks for the sweet lesson professor!! Preciate ya!!!
24:48 Facing the end of the rocker stud flat makes the set screw seat better.
Cool ... just wondering, have you had one loosen up before?
@@RatRodBobBuilds No. The tip of the set screw can now seat properly. You can google it to learn more.
Another great video Bob. It's cool watching you taking the time to do things the right way.
I like old cars with big power, My dream car would be a 70's Chevy Cheval with a 454 or 502 big block.
I don't think you left any details out, it's great to be sure everything is going to play nice together, great job Bawb, can't wait to hear it fire but make sure nothing flammable is behind it 😂
Good stuff bob .I’m enjoying you’re engine build .and you can count .lol👍👍👍👍👍
Looking forward to hearing this motor run.
Good stuff Bob, you truly are a wealth of good useful knowledge, a person could learn alot by just hangin around wth you, oh wait, we are! Thx for bringin us along!
Love your work Bob
Make sure you have 50.50 rocker arms when checking valve travel.that changes the valve travel.
What are 50.50 rocker arms?
Awesome tech video watched it two times, thanks for passing your knowledge on to me and others. Learned a lot thanks my friend be safe.
Good job Bob. That motor should run as good as the falcon. That falcons bad to the Bone.
Oh I wish .... ha haa. The Demon Falcon engine cost well over twice the amount to build and that was back when parts were a lot cheaper.
Bob you know a whole lot about everything !! Love the videos!! Keep them coming !
Hey Bawb,
Another quick video showing some of your tips for us dummies!! Great video!!!
Awesome job Bob. I always soak my lifters in oil before installing.
Neat stuff. Enjoyed watching 😎 👍
nice work as usual way to go bob
When I built the motor for my Chevelle I used the Oval port heads, all my race buddies said rectangle ports wouldn't make enough bottom end. I ended up with so much low end torque I couldn't get traction, 3000 stall convertor didn't help, should have used 2500 stall or a rectangle port head on mine, sure was a fun car though.
The truck is gonna be mean and tons of fun to drive I'm sure!
Great video. Lots of info and tips in this one. Look forward to hearing this one fire up. Be safe and stay well.
Bob, I dig your old school style.
See ya next time.. 😆
Hey Bob don't you love it when a plan comes together good job great video Thank you
Hey Bob with all the problems of cams and lifters these days I would double check to make sure the lifters are rotating in the bore before you slap the intake on. Great video as always I can't wait to hear this thing run🤟
I checked and double checked ... it's a no brainer. There's more user error these days than problems with parts.
@@RatRodBobBuilds one would like to think but I literally pulled two lifters from the pack I got from Comp cams put them on my surface plate and ran a surface gauge over them. Two were flat!! Some have surface starring and two of them had knicks to the edges right out of the box. Ran the indicator over the cam and it is the minimal amount of taper .0015. these cheap Chinese lifters are junk I'm going with the GM ones now. Good luck.
@@ogt92fromthe1step9 I just had the same problem with a Summit Racing hydraulic flat tappet Cam/ Lifter kit. Ripped them out BEFORE they destroyed the engine (200 miles) and I'm now waiting for a new Howards Hydraulic Roller cam to come. It wasn't cheap, but I'm hoping that I can put it in, break it in and forget about it like the good old days.
@@c103110a oftaa good catch best of luck to ya brother.
Nice work as always Bob 👍
Thanks for another cool video Bob!
Great video Bob! Looking forward to hearing that
Big Block Chevy come to life
Take it easy👍
Great work. Hope the lifters are good. DDs speed shop just built an engine like this and all the lifters were bad and whipped out his cam on break in.
Sorry Tony, I stopped watching Dan when he started putting up clickbait thumbnails. Many things could cause cam damage on break in. Some folks have good engine building skills in their DNA and some don't.
@@RatRodBobBuilds Unfortunately, even if you follow all the cam installation rules to the letter: ample cam lube; Zinc in the oil; break in procedure; oil change after break in; etc...the Chinese parts simply fail. My Summiit Racing hydraulic flat tappet cam lasted about 200 miles. I recently inspected the lifters and several were warn really bad already, so I pulled the cam out. I'm presently waiting for a Howards Hydraulic Roller Cam from Jegs to put it back together. It was 5X the cost of the Summit cam and lifters, but it's 100% made in the USA with hardness QC inspection.
Great video and you did a great job of explaining it. I can’t wait to hear it run
Thanks Bob...
Great Job!
I see those valve lifts are based on a 1.76 rocker arm ratio. Never seen one of those, most are 1.7(ish) and under, unless you pay bigger money for something more spot on or custom for your build.
Hi Bob: I agree pretty much on your engine build flick but would like to take it a little farther: I have been building performance & race engines for over 55 years till the LS ,not got into that much yet. Only had one to blow on the round track with a broken cam! I always say this: before hot tanking remove all passage plugs, freeze plugs & cam bearings to allow all machining & old oil sludge to flow out. After that put two 2x4 block in bottom of a metal tub & set the block vertical swab all oil bores out with bore brushes mounted on a metal rod long enough to pass trough length of block with 1/3 mineral sprits 2/3 Gunk liquid this ratio will mix well with water that you next wash out passages. Then air hose all passages out if you are ready to assy. don,t worry about flash rust, if block is to sit awhile squirt thin oil in passages.If you do this you will be amazed of the junk that will come out into the cleaning tub!
I heard that ... hidden junk in those oil holes. Especially if it's an old engine that's been run hot with Quaker State oil. That really sucks.
Good job. 👍 👍
Awesome video Bob Thanks for the lesson good stuff. She's a beautiful Big Block, JYD is gonna be a monster no doubt brother !!! ❤👍😉✌
I love your channel I’ve learned a lot. Sorry to hear about your merch problem. I’ve watched all your builds so far. Looking forward to seeing this one complete too. Do you have another build lined up for after this one?
Looking good Bawb
Another thing to watch out for and many don't look for it is valve spring binding because it can give you issues if your springs bind at full lift
Good call ... that's why I demonstrated how to check it at 15:53 in the video.
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge with us. Love these videos!
Great work👍🏾
very good great to retouch that knowledge thank you
Your going to need a beefy rear axil for that stump puller.
Can’t go wrong when your rockin and big blockin!!!!!!
I always put intake and exhaust rockers on and put play dough on the piston and turn it over by hand to check valve clearance instead of just lifting it up and down
I would like to a 454 in my 55 chevy. watching try to catch some tricks on something I haven't done yet.
look watch listen and learn its free and besides the company isn't bad either MIGHT just get a chuckle or two thanks Bob your videos are true Americana Know How thanks for passin it on.
Thank you
Thanks for sharing Bob. Was wondering which brand of cam and lifters you are using in this build. Hope all is well with You and Yours.
Thanks for the video
You need to watch Uncle Tony and d&d garage they both have problems with flat tappet cams you need to mark them push rods to make sure they're turning when you turn the motor over
Yes,DDSpeedShop had a lifter failure. Actually several. Speedway kit supplied chinesium lifters,bad grind on them. Melling are supposed to be better
Good job Bob!
It's fantastic Bob!
Very mild cam. Truck cam. Low end. Interesting to see what cranking compression will be with those dome pistons.
Yes ... mild low end torque cam, which is what I was shooting for. But it does have lots more lift and duration than the stock cam. I checked the compression before the first crank and it ranged from 180-190.
@@RatRodBobBuilds run ok on 93?
@@3800TURBO Truck is not done yet so I can't answer that one. But I am uploading the first crank video as we speak.
Iv got gen6 454 with vortex heads I need get the heads to a shop to setup for cam I have for mine it’s right at 600 lift
Awesome Mr Bob. 😎
Good job
Great video and great job on the build. Any way you could have it put on a dyno to see the power output? What do you think it will produce?
I never was really impressed about dyno numbers as much as I'm impressed by the "seat of your pants" feel in the ride ... the sound of the engine and such. By watching many other dyno videos and comparing those to the parts I have installed I would guess this engine to be in the 400hp range. Just a guess and probably not even close.
Looks good. I overheated my 454 in my k5 doing burnouts at car show couple years ago... what do you think is best way to check it out? I am going to do a compression test first...
Did you do any port work to those peanut port heads? Just curious with those cam specs.
Cheers Damo
I did not. Like I said in the video .. the cam makes power at low rpm ... up to 4500rpm. Those heads are perfect for that in stock form.
Those are not peanut port heads they say PASS for passenger car. The peanut port head is way smaller and they say TRUCK on them. They usually came on tow trucks. The BB's came with a lot of different types of heads a few Cast and a few Aluminum 75lbs lighter. Even the casting numbers can make a difference to compression and flow.
Hi sir I truly appreciate your videos, enjoy watching your creative mind at work! One question do you believe DD speed shop Dan f**ked up the installation of the cam and lifters on his engine?
I wasn't there during the installation.
hey really enjoy your videos, i'm in Miss. what was the name of the machine shop you recommended ?
Nice work Bob this one's going to be another real super duper fire breathing Peter dragon 🐉😳😅👍
I use the same OSHA approved drill mount.
Could you do a flathead ford video cruiser type rat rod next?
Would love to get my hands on a good flat head V8 for the Model A Coupe I'm building next. They are few and far between but I'll be looking for one.
$300 block with crank on ebay
Long block should be fine also.
You Gettin it
Hay BoB I recon this motor will get the front wheels off the ground mate . 😁🤣👍🤠
Bobby . Have You ever been inducted into the Drag Racing hall of fame ? Just Taken shot. Ever hear of Bob Gidden .?
Ha haa ... I've got all the popularity I can stand right hear making cool videos for you guys.
Bobbie that's not yes or no lol. Your somebody from the circuit. Hell you spit out things that I still look up in old old Melanie's books . My Grand Dad had old books . From 1930 to 60s lol
Are those open chamber or close Chamber heads?
Open chamber 119cc heads.
Great video!😅
I like the anthem man I’m dealing with a Wiped out lobe on my cam not sure what it is yet could The one thing you just showed with the spring Tolerance of at least 61,000 my engine is a small block 350 200 cc runners 72cc chambers 4way valve job comp roller rockers manly push rods carburetor is a 650 Holley off-road avenger distributor is all acell the clutch is the center force headers or Doug thorly I believe the plugs are a cell one size hotter the alternator is 130 amp at idle rear ends 373s 205 gear case 4-speed new process The heads are dart iron eagle heads
@@DonCatherman Not sure I bought it this way no it’s winter time in Minnesota so I do not have a garage or shop all my work is done outside so will have to wait until spring probably pull intake valve covers to start digging around
I do know they are hydraulic
@@DonCatherman I did not build a motor I do not build motors All I know is I have a 350 that is tapping to beat hill on the top end previous owner said probably cam lobe
@@patricksettle- You could pull the valve cover and maybe see just by looking which cylinder is having the issue. if one part of the valvetrain looks different to the others that is the problem. If the clacking and banging is loud it should be very evident which one it is. Could be as simple as a busted rocker or push rod... you never know till you dig in. Film it ! You need a video or two up anyways 👍
Where is old red at I ain't seen him at all
👍👍
👍
👍 👍 👍
Tramp my brother funny seeing you here
Where's the rectangular port heads?
I decided not to build a high RPM race motor so I swapped them for other parts.
@@RatRodBobBuilds nothing wrong with that 👍 I have a mild 496 with rectangular port heads.