Crank modifications for increased power Part 1
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- Опубліковано 21 лис 2022
- In this, Episode 23, part 1, DV looks into crank prep moves that can help increase the high end output of your motor. Some can be done at home to boot. Also he looks into design features that you need to know about if you are buying a crank - especially if it is a low buck stroker crank. And, last on the list, is the fabled 20 hp increase supposedly delivered by micro crank polishing. So does it - or is that just ad hype?
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Exactly why UA-cam should exist, saving knowledge.
Hearing people give credit for help is rare these days. You get a deserved like from me for having the humility to do that. Big win for humanity.
I am a 110% follower and when I sit down to rationally draw up my next engine build it will be done with your nuggets of knowledge you give us here on these videos. I can't tell you how much I personally appreciate the time and effort you put into teaching us a logical process in building a efficient and long-lasting engine. Thank You again David Vizard, the entire world of motorsports owes you big time!
mee too.👍
Saudações de São Paulo Brasil.
Mr Vizard's videos make me feel like I'm in college. He sounds like a teacher I would listen to. Thanks for sharing so much.
The more I watch this guy's videos the more I realize I'm just an engine assembler rather than the hot engine guy I thought I was. Thanks for sharing your tips and tricks with the gear head community.
I have been reading your books since 1994 when I was in high school. You taught me all I know about engine tuning. Nice to see you on UA-cam in 2023.
Wow! I've been wrenching, off and on for over 50 years and am amazed at what I'm learning. Well taught Mr. Vizard.
I spent 7 years machining billet cranks for a living, great job.
This man is so humble his real name is Dave wizard. Thanks so much for the information and your awesome videos.
I've learned more watching your video than in the 40 years of building..... sometimes the basics is what I need to remember instead of trying to fit a 'square peg in a round hole' !!! Thank you for these. I'm sure as I go through your library I will soon have some questions.
David, you are hands down the best Engine fundamentals guy here on the youtubes. Even experienced folks enjoy your talks. Thank you!
Crank polish is important for bearing life and oil temp. On a microscopic level, it orients the direction of the end grains of the metal, so the direction of rotation when polishing is important. When I polish a journal, I start with a P800 cork belt, and finish with a woven belt. Excellent results, with only about .0001 or so removed. Anyone that I have seen polish more than a few tenths to correct bearing clearances ended up with a journal that was out of round, tapered, or some combination of bad geometry.
Micropolishing is effective in a production environment because the backing shoes must be made to a specific size. If you are micropolishing many of the same size journal, it is cost effective to make the required shoes. If you have many different sized journals the shoes would make micropolishing impractical. Micropolishing achieves the same affect as polishing with even less metal removal. Quite precise, and done quickly.
Properly polished journals can support higher loads with lower oil clearance and oil pressure than a poorly prepared journal. As for friction, I would imagine you could get a bigger reduction in power loss from a more efficient oil pump than you can by reducing friction at the crank journals.
Thank you for the excellent videos.
One process I've seen on Ford/ Mazda cranks are a No. of very small radial grooves on the journal maybe 15-20 per journal just about deep enough to see and feel with a thumb nail so circa .5 of a thou. I understand it's for oil retention and with engines on 32-35 psi boost and 650+ hp from 4 cyl. 2.3 Ltr they are doing 20,000+ miles and looking the same as when they went together. Just how things move on.
@@gothicpagan.666 usually dividing the bearing surface like that reduces its load capacity (see design guides for oil or grease grooves in bushings for example), perhaps the grooves being so shallow means they don't disturb the oil wedge and thus avoid that issue?
@@nerd1000ify It's purely for oil retention. The bearing should never come into contact with the crank journal.
Most OEM and production crankshaft polishing is done with a tape, rather than a belt. Much more consistent results and very little dimensional change, leaving you with one process (grinding) which is much more easily controlled for better quality control. Tapes are on the 15 micron abrasive level and it's pretty easy to achieve ~7 RA finishes with them and great form control.
I learned more from you about cranks in 25 minutes than I knew in my entire previous life span. I don't race, but I have built some sbc engines and other 4 cyl motors. This is some great information.
I'm new to your channel and I am not an engine builder but I'm getting ready to build my first engine 350 I'm definitely learning a lot from u I'd cherish being able to meeting you one day I think we're all very fortunate to have you doing your channel Happy Thanksgiving Mr Vizard
You want to read up all you can from Lars Grimsrud as well. Will put you light years ahead of most on the tuning curve. Especially his papers on vacuum advance. Therein you’ll learn the secret to street taming a big cam motor and make it run cool, idle smooth and make good vacuum.
Does lars have a UA-cam channel
Rebajadas de material.pero no queda desbalanceado?
David thanks for your good information.in the 80's I raced mini's built with the guidelines of your books ,I won many races with great success
That’s fascinating, how lucky are we. I’m rebuilding my 69 mini van using David’s book, great adventure and being able to put it in context with the historical background is fascinating.
Thankyou David for all you have done over the years, I have studied and worked using your amazing books and manuals for many years. You explain things in detail and layman's terms that we can relate to so it makes sense and works for us. I often refer to them for clarity and realistic understanding.
You're amazing!
YOU ARE THE BEST DAVID....IV'E BEEN WATCHING YOUR STUFF SINCE AROUND 1990....LOVE ALL YOUR STUFF BROTHER!!!!
Thanks DV and Tom from SCAT 🏁
What a wealth of knowledge!!!
Man you're brilliant! I remember my father talking about such things when we were cleaning carberatures on his beloved classic cars... Of course he was not this much into racing! He was more of a restorer/collector
I can't decide to quote which one of the lessons I learned of him, without being rude to the rest of them!
It's funny 70 years plus on from the Rolls-Royce Merlin, the secrets in that engine still can help anyone make their engine go faster and produce more power. I watched a UA-cam video about the Packard built Merlin's and they said that engine has I think it was over 13,000 parts in it.
Great video 👍 I was a Rolls-Royce and Bentley engineer for many years and cleaning out the sludge traps ( hollow crankshaft journal) was a common job due to the poor oil filtration. Sometimes they would fill to the point where it blocked the oil feed hole and ruin the crankshaft.
Many thanks for sharing your knowledge David . Been a follower of yours from my 1970's Mini Cooper days but hadn't realised you now have this YT channel..Now subscribed.
One day I hope to see journal clearance as a topic. This session touched on surfaces and radii with a teaser regarding viscosity, and I think that’s worth elaborating on.
In the early 90s I was a Volkswagen air-cooled freak and the scat cranks was the readily available top quality cranks now I see there for V8 and I don't know if they ever did it back then but it's good to know. Gigantic thank you to David for sharing his lifetime of experience as we get older a lot of our best experience stands the test of time.
So glad I stumbled across your channel! I read your books before the days of the internet and thanks to you had a Ford Escort eating Mini. Your knowledge and tiny details make all of the difference. I am glad I can now adapt your knowledge from you here for the development of my bike and channel. Cheers, have a great day.
David thank you for covering a subject that is rarely covered for various reasons . Those reasons being the mindset of protecting trade secrets and the other reason being the polar opposite : basic ignorance of crankshafts , balancing , crank windage , mass reduction and where respective modifications apply. Once again a top rate instructional video second to none .
Thank you for taking the time for us who are looking for knowledge and absorbing as much of it as we can, so talking to the viewer like dummies even though I'm sure you want the pros to know how knowledgeable you are, for the rest of us we appreciate that your willing to take the hit for use dummies that are learning and not letting your pride get in the way of teaching as simplistic as you can for us slow learners, once again a heartfelt thanks
I'm a 64 year old engine builder and impressed by your idea about the pistons being .005 above the block deck surface.
Pop up pistons have been used for a long time. But consideration must be given to the gasket used.
Watching these videos reminds me of my knowledge deficit regarding engine building. There is so much more I need to learn!
i had one of your books how to modify a pinto engine about 25 years ago. nothing like listening to an expert with experience, wish you long life .....
been reading your performance books for years, and they work.
I always find your information to be very informative..! Many years of intelligent experience speaks loudly in my world..!
Great job David!
I have been doing a number of these mods you show for year. It's so cool to see others coming to the same conclusions. 😁😁
These videos are proof that production quality of a video doesn't mean it's any better. This video beats those high end million dollar TV show videos by far.
This is gold! So much good information and no BS. I had to watch the video a second time to pick up more knowledge. Thank You again Mr. Vizard for sharing!
I just found and subscribed to your channel after viewing this video. Your depth and breadth of knowledge and expertise is clearly evident, yet understated. I picked up several nuggets (and perhaps re-learned a thing or two☺️) from your video even though I was a licensed auto mechanic in my youth and a mechanical engineer for most of my career - retired now and restoring 1970 Mini Cooper. Thank you for sharing
Excellent info , learned something from this video that I'd always thought was a myth . Holes through rod journals makes the crank stronger . Great video .
David: Thanks for the Crankshaft differences. I plan on building two different SBC 350CI engines. On will have a 3.48 stroke with a 6" rod. The other is a 3.750 crank with a 5.7" rod. Your determining the crankshaft to rod ratio is extremely helpful. Thank again!
Great information and presented in a very digestible way. It's amazing how technology and engineering can go into a crankshaft!
Since i like to know and study all the different styles and reasons certain things are done i truly enjoyed this video. Thank you for your time making these videos sir.
As said : Devil is hiding in the minute detail portions. Well done!
Of all all nights for YT to remind me I use to follow you.. Been a couple years now.
I can't believe you're still sharing David! Man I have been trying to put all the sharing behind me,,, Dave, it's the basic questions some comment on to just disagree on....?
I will share this gift with others .
Well I must say "and from my early readings" yes the dia. forces a flow of stress energies. This in turn suggest focusing on the root being energy. So fall into that category of energy and we can manipulate the direction and flow. (for those that don't know, when the manicular structure will launch at random paths until it finds or creates a weakness... A gift you pointing this out Dave.. By the way: not even high school but man in the 70s engines were a time plus hauling costs..lol
waiting on part 2
Excellent presentation, thank you for your time and effort.
Thank you my dear sir. A pitty i learn all these brilliant info at a late stage in my life ( pensioner) .
It just shows you there is no substitute for knowledge and experience. Salute .
Hope all is well David. Thank you for all your insight and information.
Great to hear from Mr Vizard. I still have his book, “ How to Modify the Mini” with me since the late 70’s.
This is gold. Thanks David and please continue
Another great tutorial. Thank you David.
Wow! just found this in my feed. Back in the Eighties I ported a 2L Pinto to his guidelines and the result was great with added twin 40's and my car just flew. Great to see there are videos too now.
Was that the German 2 liter? Most Pintos came with the 2.3, but my 1973 Capri ( Ford of Germany) had the 2 liter. I’m not an expert on the Pinto series
Good video David.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
thank you for verifying what i all ways been say to people, some people are stuck on what they here from there engine builders, iam a engine builder but i know what works what doesn't they do it just to make money out of the customer, and i learn about microfilm back in the day in high school auto motive. thank you one more time love your tutorials you sure bring me back .
Excellent!!... I will really enjoy part 2.
Great information...Thank you David
More rays of enlightenment. Many Thanks.
Thanks Mr.Vizard the info on the counterweight and the micro polishing was a money 💰 saver
Great timing,because my hubby and his buddy are building and old school 327 gasser motor!
Met David in the late 70s in of all places, Sears. Always enjoyed your articles.
This is awesome to see you so well I trust, I followed you projects in the triple C car mag way back, when I was building an engine for my roots 1725 sunbeam alpine, I took you advice to have the head an cam matched at pipers tuning, at the time one of your ccc articles
stated that a rough finish in the intake close to the valves would improve the sturbulance at back of the intake valve, along with the inclined valve guides to reduce wear on the valve stems ,this worked out very well, with pipers distributer timing advice , at 7000rpm it was 38 degrees , the home grown crank flywheel rods had a great deal of attention , mainly weight reduction as did the valve train etc, with twin 40s it pushed out 150hp and 170 flbs , the only problem was the head would eat the gasket, however it took only 5 hours to change it a small price to pay and cheaper than the wills ring conversion, I had many great hours driving it with no other probs, your time at ccc was a huge help to many iam sure, again so lovely to see your still pushing the passion, I’ve subscribed and looking forward to next vlog 👍👏👏👏👏
some of the crank mods mr Vizard shares here ive been using on some of my builds and and its been awesome!
on one video i did show the crank and asked the audience what seemed to be different and none got it 😅 but i do share and Mr Vizard has always been a big deal to me in my book thank you for all of this
Very good engineering thinking brought into light. Thank you!
I’m a 40 year drag racer and I appreciate all this knowledge
This man is sharing his thoughts according to what he have encountered and experienced. Everything he said was true and it really make sense
This is only the second video of yours I have watched and I have to say I am glad I clicked on the first one. Liked, subscribed, and you are the first ever to have me hit the notification bell.
I had a 427 SB chev push the thrust out of the crank. It was a Shafaroff motor and had a Callies standard weight crank in it. It was a 54 lb crank with 350 mains. He was in a hurry and the only thing Tom had was a light weight crank at 42 lbs. I thought that might be a good test of the light weight crank. We saw no difference in performance. The car ran exactly the same ET as it did before. I was disappointed. Now in a circle track motor it would have taken 12 lbs off the nose but in a drag race car we couldn't see a difference. My guess is the weight being so close to centerline the gain was not enough to measure. I certainly agree with what you are doing with leading edge. Joe Lunati and I talked about that years ago and I asked him for drilled throws but without the knife edged leading edge as I wanted the knife edge on the rear and not the front. He agreed with me but said, "if they won't listen to what you tell them, sell them what they want." I am a pilot and former military pilot. That isn't how my airplanes are shaped.
So grateful for the lesson. It’s historically interesting and golden information thank you.
Excellent teacher thank you for the class
Excellent info. Thank You.
This is the second video of yours I've seen. Not an engine builder but have built some engines(put parts together). I've just subscribed. I'm going to get some of this knowledge because you guys are dying off and the information is dying with you. Thanks for sharing what you know.
Very Instructional video as always
Very interesting and informative. Thanks !
great video. Very instructive
Thank you for sharing your knowledge 👍
Great knowledge, iam gaining from you,keep them coming thanks again 👍
Wow, very informative, thank you sir
Thank you so much for your lessons..
Watch video again , thank you sir, very informative
I just tore down a 408 Ford Windsor stroker that I put together in 2011. It made about 650 or so HP and ran 6 teens in the 1/8th at 108 or 9 mph at 3100lbs. This was a bracket motor. It was made to last a long time. The 3" mains everyone says you cant keep oiled were perfect. The rods were Chevy journal size and one of the Rod bearings failed. The rest were fine. The math on this motor does not equal the necessary rod stroke ratio talked about here. The motor was a brute torquey sob too breaking 2 named brand converter in that (over) 10 year time span. All this may hold true for a Chevy but it does not hold true on a Ford. 6.25 rod and a 4" stroke crank. AFR Heads. Runs like a beast. Almost the same thing too for my 347. Not 1.6. Run 6.50's in the 1/8th at 3250lbs. Still has power windows in the car. Both of these are naturally aspirated. Again, maybe for a Chevy but not for a Ford.
Maybe the oiling mess was BMW's way of oil cooling the pistons. If they didn't have oil squirters, this might have been an option.
It has been said that piston oil squirters were one reason the Nissan 300ZXTT was able to take big increases in boost. It certainly wasn't the only reason, but it was a contributor.
23:00 Some people use the 12 counterweight crank when stroking a Jeep 4.0L I6 to 4.6L. That 12 counterweight crank was found in the early Jeep 258. It has been said to endure boost better that the 6 counterweight crank. It is interesting to me, an I6 has advantages over a V8 in balance.
Thanks for these various videos about engine building.
Excellent!
Thank you.
Many years ago I have followed David book on mini racing and put it to practice, genius
Thank you. Eye opening 👀
Thank you , enjoyed the video very informative🥰
Well, I have given it some thoughts for some time, and now- after this video- I will take a closer look at my 4,125" stroke slantsixcrank. Lucky me that I've got machines and the know-how. It will probably be a creation most expensive if considering the time spent, but hey- if I don’t spend my free time and try it out- who will?😊
Fantastic information
I remembered when I built my engine I was getting into a lot of detail but not as much as the mods your talking about here. I love to dream of ways to make more power and although I might not build another one again.Your Videos are exciting to think about. Thanks Dave. c]8-) 👍
Learning so much from you David! Love the videos.
This is good stuff. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the intelligent information. New subscriber. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Glad I found you on "the tube". I've had your books so long they are disintegrating on the shelf. I think the grease stains are the only thing keeping them together.
This is good info on many platforms, just got my hands on some billet 2 stroke stuff, its time to Play, ggz-👽👍
back in the early days of diesel performance. like late 90's early 2000's there wasnt big turbo tech yet. electronics were still pretty weak. so tuning was still pretty basic too.
there was a shop i almost worked at that the owner was taking the stock rotating assembly out of the motor and lightening them balancing and swapping the balancer and flywheels or lightening the flywheel. he was getting an easy 100-150 hp more out of these things just getting rid of the dead weight and casting flaws. and it made the motor much more responsive. pretty cool stuff to learn when your young and getting a real understanding of how it all works. i was lucky enough to meet many mentors like that over the years and get some really good insight. its made every project i tackled come out way better in the end because i actually get who what when where and why.
Love the videos, thank you sir
All I can say is, this is interesting!
Thanks for the good info and video
Smart Man. Deliberate Man, I like him.
Thankyou very much sir 👍
I have a couple of SBC book’s authored by you. My goodness, you had a head full of very dark hair. To be sure, time really flies. Hair wise, I’m in the same boat as you😊.
Some as much as 20k rpm....it did scare them. I'm glad you went back to mention that.
fantastic content.
Great 👍.!!
Mr.David is Master and ACE Tuner..!!!
very informative,i subscribed