You're my new favourite person. Saved me £1k almost at the dealers. Boy am I sore this morning after spending most of yesterday sat on the floor doing it but who doesn't want to save a grand?
Just wanted to say thanks! Dealer wanted over $900 for front breaks and rotors and over $800 for rear. I bought good quality ceramic pads and rotors and sensors and was able to do it myself thanks to your video for around $300 in parts. It took me just over 3 hours.
Awesome video! I noticed you reset the brake fluid. I think this for a "flush" if I'm not mistaken, not just making sure the level is high enough. I don't know if you did that in another video but other video viewers should be aware of this.
If you sell the car, it's quite important that you make the things right! He should not have reseted it, only shown how to do it! I'm not sure, but I think BMW suggest to replace all bolts. I would never replace a cable that isn't damaged/torn down. Here in Sweden we switch tires two times a year and then you have a good opportunity to check the pads at the same time. Then we have to exchange the rear rotors because of rust often not because they are worn out. In practice few accidents, if any, are related to technical problems, so the DIYers must do a quite good job, or?
Can you be kind and provide torque values pls - the link from your video requires registration and payment- if u have torque specs for both front and back - I’d or We would really appreciate it thnx
Just got my girlfriends done thanks to this vid. These back ones are a little trickier than the front due to that e brake! Thanks dude!!! Great video for the DIYera
Can you list the tools you will need to do the front and rear brakes? My dad is a mechanic but doesn’t work on foreign cars very much. Wondering if we need to order any special tools. Thanks in advance for your help!
Very clear and concise video! How many wear sensors are there? My understanding is one on the front and one on the rear or is there one on each wheel(4)?
Hey thanks for making this video. a couple questions from when I was working on a 2018 X3 and ran into a couple issues. When retracting the parking brake, I got it all the way to the end stop, but the piston wouldnt retract in when using a c-clamp. I thought it might have been due to the parking brake not fully retracted so i tried rotating it fully counterclockwise, then clockwise again. When that happened, the torx bit on the caliper side was able to spin more and now doesnt hit an end stop. The piston also came out of the dust boot and I was leaking brake fluid ( I messed up somehow, trying to figure out exactly where or how). I ordered a new dust boot and plan to rebuild and bleed the system. My questions are, is the park brake destroyed to where I need to buy a new one or can i somehow tighten the nut on the threaded portion behind the piston to repair it? How can I get the piston to fully retract afterwards so I can get the pads in? Should I open up the bleeder valve to release some pressure in the system? This is the first BMW i've worked on. Other cars i've replaced pads and rotors for didnt have this kind of system.
Just did my brakes. Except when I tried to set the park brake it gave me a malfunction light. Is there a way to reset the light and try to reset the park brake again?
Love your instructional videos!
Since BMW will no longer allow us to view the TIS, can you list the torque values if you have them?? Thx
Found them in ua-cam.com/video/W6rNHts9juM/v-deo.html
You're my new favourite person. Saved me £1k almost at the dealers.
Boy am I sore this morning after spending most of yesterday sat on the floor doing it but who doesn't want to save a grand?
7:01 use an old brake pad in between, very good narrative speed & detailed proper instructions! 💯🤝
Perfect! Seems simple enough…famous last words. Just ordered my rear brake parts today so I’ll be tackling this in the coming weeks
Just wanted to say thanks! Dealer wanted over $900 for front breaks and rotors and over $800 for rear. I bought good quality ceramic pads and rotors and sensors and was able to do it myself thanks to your video for around $300 in parts. It took me just over 3 hours.
$300
What brand you bought because front rear cheapest I’ve seen right now is $500
@@rajdeepsingh5924 I bought brembo on eBay for $425
Awesome video! I noticed you reset the brake fluid. I think this for a "flush" if I'm not mistaken, not just making sure the level is high enough. I don't know if you did that in another video but other video viewers should be aware of this.
I have a 2017 X3. I’m doing the brakes on mine at the moment and noted that and was coming here to say the same thing.
If you sell the car, it's quite important that you make the things right! He should not have reseted it, only shown how to do it!
I'm not sure, but I think BMW suggest to replace all bolts.
I would never replace a cable that isn't damaged/torn down. Here in Sweden we switch tires two times a year and then you have a good opportunity to check the pads at the same time.
Then we have to exchange the rear rotors because of rust often not because they are worn out.
In practice few accidents, if any, are related to technical problems, so the DIYers must do a quite good job, or?
Can you be kind and provide torque values pls - the link from your video requires registration and payment- if u have torque specs for both front and back - I’d or We would really appreciate it thnx
Just got my girlfriends done thanks to this vid. These back ones are a little trickier than the front due to that e brake!
Thanks dude!!! Great video for the DIYera
Why did you not clean the matting surface before putting the rotor on? Also definitely love depends clean and lube. Depends with ate grease.
Very informative. Doing this at home saved me $500. Thank you.
Can you list the tools you will need to do the front and rear brakes? My dad is a mechanic but doesn’t work on foreign cars very much. Wondering if we need to order any special tools. Thanks in advance for your help!
caliper bracket bolts are one time use as they are torqued to yield. New ones via the dealer are about 8 bucks each.
Used our video to change my brakes, great explanation easy to follow.
great video! could you provide torque values for main caliper mount screws and for floating pins screw?
Anyone have the torque specs? The site was removed
Excellent video. Was really helpful in changing the rear brakes on my wife's X3. Not sure I could have figured it out otherwise
Any way to repost the torque specs? Thanks for the video!
BMW had them removed. Unfortunately that was my reference too.
Great video! So do you mind to show me how to find the torque spec because the links that you gave, is not work. I appreciate that.
Yes, isn’t it just wonderful that BMW has gone to war with its customers by taking away our ability to view the TIS!! Fools they are!
Very clear and concise video! How many wear sensors are there? My understanding is one on the front and one on the rear or is there one on each wheel(4)?
There are 2. Front and rear.
Thank you. Very detailed.
Where is the link to the torque specs? E.g. caliper carrier to hub, caliper to carrier.
Great video. Love it.
Is this the same for the 35i?
Bravo très bien expliqué
from france
Outstanding !
Hi, Can I put a regular wool blanket on my bmw battery in the winter??
What kind of brake fluid use?dot 5 or dot 3
All references I’ve found says DOT 4
Hey thanks for making this video. a couple questions from when I was working on a 2018 X3 and ran into a couple issues.
When retracting the parking brake, I got it all the way to the end stop, but the piston wouldnt retract in when using a c-clamp. I thought it might have been due to the parking brake not fully retracted so i tried rotating it fully counterclockwise, then clockwise again. When that happened, the torx bit on the caliper side was able to spin more and now doesnt hit an end stop.
The piston also came out of the dust boot and I was leaking brake fluid ( I messed up somehow, trying to figure out exactly where or how). I ordered a new dust boot and plan to rebuild and bleed the system.
My questions are, is the park brake destroyed to where I need to buy a new one or can i somehow tighten the nut on the threaded portion behind the piston to repair it?
How can I get the piston to fully retract afterwards so I can get the pads in? Should I open up the bleeder valve to release some pressure in the system?
This is the first BMW i've worked on. Other cars i've replaced pads and rotors for didnt have this kind of system.
Just did my brakes. Except when I tried to set the park brake it gave me a malfunction light. Is there a way to reset the light and try to reset the park brake again?
I have similar issue.how did You solve IT?
Did you ever resolve this? I'm having the same problem.
Hi So you don't need the VAG or other programs ??
I didn’t use any programs.
I have another video showing the process to retract the electronic parking brake.
Thanks for the video, great job! BMW SUCKS and Ill never buy another again.