Successful replacement with aluminum body housing complete. All operational again. The plastic O-Ring seat for the coolant channel disintegrated, causing the leak. Luckily it did not communicate with the oil channel and make salad dressing yet. Would have happened soon though if not caught in time. Thanks again for the DIY video!
Wow what year and mileage was your X3 when this occurred? I have a 2023 and hoping I don' get this issue in the future. Failed gasket sounds like a recall to me.
Wow, that was fantastic and worth watching and I don’t even have coolant leaking on my X3.🤞🏼 You have talent. I feel certain the algorithm knows me well at this point! 😅
Dang! that is so unfortunate. Anyways, it can still be of help in the future. Thank you for taking your time to watch the video and leaving a comment, I appreciate that.
I reconnected the harnesses to the DME control unit according to this video but my car wont start and am getting all kinds of DTCs related to engine DME control unit indicating open circuit, short circuit, short circuit to battery positive. My harnesses dont have colors so I tried to replicate what you did in the video as much as possible but I could've made a mistake. Also, the battery was disconnected for 3 weeks. Did I ruin the DME control unit? What do you recommend I do?
That is a very unusual case. Too many DTC codes related to DME can mean a bunch of stuff. I would recommend you take your car to be inspected by a qualified Mechanic or service center. But if you have a good background knowledge on electrical, try doing a thorough inspection of the wiring components especially the connectors by making sure they have continuity. But first, start by making sure your battery is not failing because that may also be the main reason all those codes may come up.
@@all-about-cars-basics Update: realized the connectors weren't all the way plugged in, it is hard to get them in there. After I did that, no communication with DME at all, no codes or anything. Screwed on the framing strut, and the exhaust next to transmission pan which I had loosened to change transmission oil. Not sure if those two metal pieces are related to ground, but DME is back on!! Now the engine doesnt sound and feel the same, so not sure if it means I have a vacuum leak from not installing the air lines and manifold correctly, or if I didnt connect the exhaust pipe to catalytic converter part correctly, or if coolant leaked on a component and damaged it. I only changed the oil cooler with an aluminum one, and the coolant flange going into the engine that often leaks. Now the engine is louder, kind of like sputtering sound but the car drives fine. When I turn on the AC it gets worse. Do you do virtual consultations for a fee by chance?
You do not need to empty the oil for this procedure. Just make sure the car has been sitting for a minute before you begin working on it. Doing that will let most of the oil in the housing to drain back into the oil pan. You will spill but insignificant amount of oil.
I reconnected all the control unit connectors, my harnesses didn't have colors so used tried to determine what harness goes where from your video. The car won't start and getting many codes saying open circuit, or a wire wrongly connected to battery positive. Did I ruin the main module or systems, or does it fix once everything gets connected correctly?
How much would a job like this cost at an independent shop? I have someone saying to change the housing, intake manifold gaskets and throttle body gaskets. Is this accurate?
Nice video! Thanks for bringing to everyone's attention. I've had 3 coolant leaks already on this POS plastic fitting engine. I already had to replace upper radiator hose, engine block coolant flange, and Turbo coolant line. Is there anything else on this side of the engine that could have coolant leakage? Dealer just did oil change last week, and wondering if they cracked the oil filter housing because now the leak is so bad the engine does not even have to be on.
I had my Turbo coolant return line leak at 65k miles after a long road trip on my 19 X3 Sdrive30i. What car and mileage is it at? I’m very nervous for more leaks as I’ve never had a car leak at such low miles. I also live in Texas so climate is very hot but I’ve heard people have more leaks in colder climates.
That is so unfortunate. And yes, there is a coolant hose just above the oil cooler housing and right below the intake manifold you may need to check that out to make sure it is not leaking.
any directions on bleed procedure? Everything I'm finding on the interwebs isn't clear except for use a vacuum fill. What happened to using the electric wp to purge the system?
It is true the internet is flooded with all kinds of information, that most times won't be that clear. Concerning the bleeding procedure using Electric WP. Follow these simple steps (I think I should do a video on this) 1. You turn your car ignition on (Don't start it) 2. Turn Cabin temperature all the way to max heat 3. Put the fan speed on the lowest speed 4. Press and hold gas pedal for 10 seconds 5. You should hear the electric water pump kick in 6. Open your coolant reservoir cap and see the coolant stream. When you do that, it will bleed the system. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
@all-about-cars-basics yes.....that is what understood and tried as well. It just didn't work on this car unfortunately. I have bleed it by running the car with the cap off. This seems to have worked as the car will not go over the normal temp.
@@twtcadwere you able to do the bleed procedure? I had the same issue on my 2019 X3 and you actually have to turn the engine on after you’ve done turned on the heat and lights. That’s how it worked for me and the engine stays in a high rpm to let the system bleed properly.
Video helped me alot. I'm putting the parts back together right now. Im stuck on putting the transmission fitting back together. The connector with the green sleeve that goes back into the transmission cooler.
@@all-about-cars-basics It's refusing to lock in. I didn't push the connector far enough into the fitting. Everything is back together and running. Now I have a code P10E2. Not sure if I had damage it when putting stuff back together. Thanks for your help. Really appreciate!
Yes, it usually comes around the oil cooler housing area. But to be certain, do some inspection by looking at the area after removing the cover below it.
@@NickRRR-x9v At times coolant leaks play hard to get. For that case that you are not certain where it is coming out from, I would suggest you do either of these two options, first if you have access to cooling system pressure test kit then you can perform a pressure test and any part of your cooling system that has a leak will start leaking and you can identify it easily. Option two is when you do not have access to a pressure test kit, what you do is you remove all the covers below the car and let the car run for a few minutes till it builds up pressure. At that point when the pressure is in the cooling system the part with a leak will start leaking and you can just identify it easily. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
@@all-about-cars-basicsthanks. I do have pressure tester. When I tested I was only able to see there was leak from oil cooler. Maybe the leak was above it but I wasn’t able to see. Now the issue is I already removed oil cooler and transmission cooler. Is there a way I can still pressure test without connecting them back?
@@NickRRR-x9v I don't think it is possible to pressure test when the oil cooler is out. Because the pressure you need will be alot. What I would suggest is to install a new seal for the oil cooler and then install them back and I wish you had access to a mechanics mirror (it is like $4 at harbor freight) and then use it to look around the area when you do pressure testing. The Mechanics mirror will offer you alot of flexibility to see into places that would be hard to see. My guess is that (I may be wrong) once you install the oil cooler housing seal the leak will go away. Let me know how it goes.
I decided to go with an aftermarket aluminum model. The factory plastic one is defective and the cause of all these problems. Definitely should be a recall but BMW won't fess up to this problem unless there is a class action suit. Thanks again for the great video. I just finished removing mine. Tomorrow I will start the assembly.
I would not advise you to reuse it, I will still leak again. Just get an aftermarket one for a reasonable price. It will work great like the factory one. Sometimes much better.
@@fransfarrugia4490 Nice move. And you are right, this is too common it should have been a recall. But we are yet to see that happen. I am glad the video was of help.
@@all-about-cars-basics Was thinking if I disconnect the coolant lines on the Trans cooler and remove the mounting bolts but leave the the transmission lines connected, I could move it just enough to access that hidden bolt.
Ok successful repair done! I was able to disconnect only the coolant lines to the transmission cooler and mobilize it enough to access the oil cooler housing bolts. Didn't have to mess with any transmission fluid.
@@all-about-cars-basics removing the intake instead of the ECU/DME connections to get access for the oil cooler housing repair. I have an x3 as well and I’ve been watching videos on this repair. Trying to prepare myself mentally and physically 😃. Mechanic shop these days will charge thousands just for this repair 🤦♂️. Appreciate your feedback sir.
@@Joseph5394 Indeed the repair cost a lot. Yes, you can remove the intake to remove it but to me personally I find it too much work and at the end of the day you may end up buying intake manifold seals and with BMW putting too many brittle plastic hoses on the engine intake area makes me avoid that path
@@Joseph5394Just checking to see if you were able to get your X3 OFH replaced by yourself? I have a 2019 X3 with 70k miles and I’m scared it’ll start leaking so I want to upgrade to an aluminum one.
Thats a common BMW problem since the M54 engine. The gasket back then was $3 and the oii filter housing was in the front. The problem continued with the N52, which is also in the front of the engine and I have also have and have replaced. I also have a N54, which is also in the front of the engine but its still too new to get into it. I dont know if that is a B48 but it shows that its now in the rear of the engine and i has 1000 wiring looms. Are you smart if you buy a 2013 and above BMW know that is a common problem? Good luck buying the most undependable vehicle in the world.😂😂😂
That is impressive, you seem to know BMWs well. And for the engine on the video that is B58 engine, but the process is somewhat similar on a B48 and B46 BMW engines. Thank you for the nuggets of wisdom and for taking your time to leave a comment. I appreciate that a lot.
@all-about-cars-basics I have a 97 Z3 1.9, 2001 330i 3.0, 2005 3.0 ZHP, 2008 528i 3.0 and I have done a lot of maintenance work on all of them and learned so much about BMWs mistakes. I replaced the front suspension on my nephews 2013 320i after he was in a collision and broke the control arms. When I saw that the steering rack was electric and not coming back to center, I started troubleshooting it and it was useless. Then we finally bought the right used steering rack out of 2 that were made and paid $300 to code it in and the problem disappeared. My take is, stay away from 2013 and up vehicles because everything is made to drive by wire now and prone to fail. I rebuilt my 1st gen Tacomas steering rack with a $25 seal kit. I stick with analog because theyre easily rebuildable!!! My Z3 and my Tacoma are the simplest to work on and they have super high mileage!!!
Wow, well, that is outrageous. I always like to encourage people to avoid the dealership as much as possible. Unless it's necessary and you do not have an alternative to it.
Whoa. You did the entire job one-handed? You are the GOAT.
Thank you so much. Truely appreciate it.
Successful replacement with aluminum body housing complete. All operational again. The plastic O-Ring seat for the coolant channel disintegrated, causing the leak. Luckily it did not communicate with the oil channel and make salad dressing yet. Would have happened soon though if not caught in time. Thanks again for the DIY video!
This is great! 👍. 😁😁 yes, we don't want no salad dressing lol. I am happy it went smoothly.
Wow what year and mileage was your X3 when this occurred? I have a 2023 and hoping I don' get this issue in the future. Failed gasket sounds like a recall to me.
@@MrJFunk 2019, 80k miles.
@@docwong2020 Will keep an eye out for. Thank you!
@@MrJFunk It is a 2019 X3. I dont remember the exact mileage when this occurred. And yes, I believe this should be a recall.
Brother...i needed this more than you know! I've been going crazy trying to find the leak i had on my 2019 X3. Thank you
I am glad the video was helpful. You are welcome
Wow, that was fantastic and worth watching and I don’t even have coolant leaking on my X3.🤞🏼 You have talent.
I feel certain the algorithm knows me well at this point! 😅
😄 Thank you for your kind words. I appreciate that 🙏🙏
Thanks!
Thank you. I appreciate that 🙏
Great video, wish I had seen it before I paid $3000 to get mine replaced about 7 months ago!
Dang! that is so unfortunate. Anyways, it can still be of help in the future. Thank you for taking your time to watch the video and leaving a comment, I appreciate that.
I reconnected the harnesses to the DME control unit according to this video but my car wont start and am getting all kinds of DTCs related to engine DME control unit indicating open circuit, short circuit, short circuit to battery positive. My harnesses dont have colors so I tried to replicate what you did in the video as much as possible but I could've made a mistake. Also, the battery was disconnected for 3 weeks. Did I ruin the DME control unit? What do you recommend I do?
That is a very unusual case. Too many DTC codes related to DME can mean a bunch of stuff. I would recommend you take your car to be inspected by a qualified Mechanic or service center. But if you have a good background knowledge on electrical, try doing a thorough inspection of the wiring components especially the connectors by making sure they have continuity. But first, start by making sure your battery is not failing because that may also be the main reason all those codes may come up.
@@all-about-cars-basics Update: realized the connectors weren't all the way plugged in, it is hard to get them in there. After I did that, no communication with DME at all, no codes or anything. Screwed on the framing strut, and the exhaust next to transmission pan which I had loosened to change transmission oil. Not sure if those two metal pieces are related to ground, but DME is back on!! Now the engine doesnt sound and feel the same, so not sure if it means I have a vacuum leak from not installing the air lines and manifold correctly, or if I didnt connect the exhaust pipe to catalytic converter part correctly, or if coolant leaked on a component and damaged it. I only changed the oil cooler with an aluminum one, and the coolant flange going into the engine that often leaks. Now the engine is louder, kind of like sputtering sound but the car drives fine. When I turn on the AC it gets worse. Do you do virtual consultations for a fee by chance?
Can you share torque specs for oil housing bolts?
Did you have to empty the oil before removing the housing? I would think that if not oil would spill everywhere.
You do not need to empty the oil for this procedure. Just make sure the car has been sitting for a minute before you begin working on it. Doing that will let most of the oil in the housing to drain back into the oil pan. You will spill but insignificant amount of oil.
I reconnected all the control unit connectors, my harnesses didn't have colors so used tried to determine what harness goes where from your video. The car won't start and getting many codes saying open circuit, or a wire wrongly connected to battery positive. Did I ruin the main module or systems, or does it fix once everything gets connected correctly?
Awesome video, very well done and explained. Thank you!
Thank you. I appreciate that 🙏
How much would a job like this cost at an independent shop? I have someone saying to change the housing, intake manifold gaskets and throttle body gaskets. Is this accurate?
Nice video! Thanks for bringing to everyone's attention. I've had 3 coolant leaks already on this POS plastic fitting engine. I already had to replace upper radiator hose, engine block coolant flange, and Turbo coolant line. Is there anything else on this side of the engine that could have coolant leakage? Dealer just did oil change last week, and wondering if they cracked the oil filter housing because now the leak is so bad the engine does not even have to be on.
I had my Turbo coolant return line leak at 65k miles after a long road trip on my 19 X3 Sdrive30i. What car and mileage is it at? I’m very nervous for more leaks as I’ve never had a car leak at such low miles. I also live in Texas so climate is very hot but I’ve heard people have more leaks in colder climates.
That is so unfortunate. And yes, there is a coolant hose just above the oil cooler housing and right below the intake manifold you may need to check that out to make sure it is not leaking.
@@RKSAINT The leaks are so common in the same spots. I think this should have been a recall.
any directions on bleed procedure? Everything I'm finding on the interwebs isn't clear except for use a vacuum fill. What happened to using the electric wp to purge the system?
It is true the internet is flooded with all kinds of information, that most times won't be that clear. Concerning the bleeding procedure using Electric WP. Follow these simple steps (I think I should do a video on this)
1. You turn your car ignition on (Don't start it)
2. Turn Cabin temperature all the way to max heat
3. Put the fan speed on the lowest speed
4. Press and hold gas pedal for 10 seconds
5. You should hear the electric water pump kick in 6. Open your coolant reservoir cap and see the coolant stream.
When you do that, it will bleed the system. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
@all-about-cars-basics yes.....that is what understood and tried as well. It just didn't work on this car unfortunately. I have bleed it by running the car with the cap off. This seems to have worked as the car will not go over the normal temp.
2018 x3 3.0 xdrive
@@twtcadwere you able to do the bleed procedure? I had the same issue on my 2019 X3 and you actually have to turn the engine on after you’ve done turned on the heat and lights. That’s how it worked for me and the engine stays in a high rpm to let the system bleed properly.
Video helped me alot. I'm putting the parts back together right now. Im stuck on putting the transmission fitting back together. The connector with the green sleeve that goes back into the transmission cooler.
Sorry to hear about that. Is the connector refusing to lock in or what is the issue with the green connector?
@@all-about-cars-basics It's refusing to lock in. I didn't push the connector far enough into the fitting. Everything is back together and running. Now I have a code P10E2. Not sure if I had damage it when putting stuff back together. Thanks for your help. Really appreciate!
Do you have to empty the oil before taking the oil filter housing? Would it leak a lot if you don’t empty it?
You do not need to empty the oil. It will leak just a little bit. Not a lot.
Thank you so much for your help the video you did is one of the best tutorials I’ve seen on youtube
@@jafaralbaaj6977 I appreciate that.
For this leak, does the leakage under the suv come around the engine oil reservoir wrap? How to determine if the leak is from here?
Yes, it usually comes around the oil cooler housing area. But to be certain, do some inspection by looking at the area after removing the cover below it.
@@all-about-cars-basicsi removed the oil cooler but found it was intact.. any idea what can be broken to cause coolant dripping above?
@@NickRRR-x9v At times coolant leaks play hard to get. For that case that you are not certain where it is coming out from, I would suggest you do either of these two options, first if you have access to cooling system pressure test kit then you can perform a pressure test and any part of your cooling system that has a leak will start leaking and you can identify it easily. Option two is when you do not have access to a pressure test kit, what you do is you remove all the covers below the car and let the car run for a few minutes till it builds up pressure. At that point when the pressure is in the cooling system the part with a leak will start leaking and you can just identify it easily. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
@@all-about-cars-basicsthanks. I do have pressure tester. When I tested I was only able to see there was leak from oil cooler. Maybe the leak was above it but I wasn’t able to see. Now the issue is I already removed oil cooler and transmission cooler. Is there a way I can still pressure test without connecting them back?
@@NickRRR-x9v I don't think it is possible to pressure test when the oil cooler is out. Because the pressure you need will be alot. What I would suggest is to install a new seal for the oil cooler and then install them back and I wish you had access to a mechanics mirror (it is like $4 at harbor freight) and then use it to look around the area when you do pressure testing. The Mechanics mirror will offer you alot of flexibility to see into places that would be hard to see. My guess is that (I may be wrong) once you install the oil cooler housing seal the leak will go away. Let me know how it goes.
The port that was leaking has some damage to the rim. Mine had similar damage but on the opposite side. Is this OK to reuse?
I decided to go with an aftermarket aluminum model. The factory plastic one is defective and the cause of all these problems. Definitely should be a recall but BMW won't fess up to this problem unless there is a class action suit. Thanks again for the great video. I just finished removing mine. Tomorrow I will start the assembly.
I would not advise you to reuse it, I will still leak again. Just get an aftermarket one for a reasonable price. It will work great like the factory one. Sometimes much better.
@@fransfarrugia4490 Nice move. And you are right, this is too common it should have been a recall. But we are yet to see that happen. I am glad the video was of help.
Thanks for share!! Really helpful!!
Anytime. I am glad the video was helpful.
Is the same process for the x3 2020?
Yes, it is the same.
Oh, can the oil filter housing be accessed without removing transmission cooler?
No. It cannot. One of the bolts for the oil cooler is blocked by the transmission cooler housing
@@all-about-cars-basics Was thinking if I disconnect the coolant lines on the Trans cooler and remove the mounting bolts but leave the the transmission lines connected, I could move it just enough to access that hidden bolt.
@@docwong2020 I know. They made it in such a way that you have to remove the transmission cooler for no reason. It is so unfortunate.
Ok successful repair done! I was able to disconnect only the coolant lines to the transmission cooler and mobilize it enough to access the oil cooler housing bolts. Didn't have to mess with any transmission fluid.
Do you know if they use the same oil cooler/ oil filter housing on the 2024 2 liter engine?
They are similar but not the same.
@@all-about-cars-basics I wonder if we will have the same issue in the future? PS: You did a great job in this video. Where are you located?
@@TNTRVing We are yet to find out. A 2024 car is pretty new on the block. Thank you for your kind words. And we are located in Washington DC.
Job well done with the video sir. Have you tried removing the intake for this repair?
Thank you. When you say remove the intake for this repair, do you mean the oil cooler housing repair?
@@all-about-cars-basics removing the intake instead of the ECU/DME connections to get access for the oil cooler housing repair. I have an x3 as well and I’ve been watching videos on this repair. Trying to prepare myself mentally and physically 😃. Mechanic shop these days will charge thousands just for this repair 🤦♂️. Appreciate your feedback sir.
@@Joseph5394 Indeed the repair cost a lot. Yes, you can remove the intake to remove it but to me personally I find it too much work and at the end of the day you may end up buying intake manifold seals and with BMW putting too many brittle plastic hoses on the engine intake area makes me avoid that path
@@Joseph5394Just checking to see if you were able to get your X3 OFH replaced by yourself? I have a 2019 X3 with 70k miles and I’m scared it’ll start leaking so I want to upgrade to an aluminum one.
@@RKSAINT hello! My car is still going strong. No leaks yet 🙏
Thats a common BMW problem since the M54 engine. The gasket back then was $3 and the oii filter housing was in the front.
The problem continued with the N52, which is also in the front of the engine and I have also have and have replaced. I also have a N54, which is also in the front of the engine but its still too new to get into it.
I dont know if that is a B48 but it shows that its now in the rear of the engine and i has 1000 wiring looms.
Are you smart if you buy a 2013 and above BMW know that is a common problem?
Good luck buying the most undependable vehicle in the world.😂😂😂
That is impressive, you seem to know BMWs well. And for the engine on the video that is B58 engine, but the process is somewhat similar on a B48 and B46 BMW engines. Thank you for the nuggets of wisdom and for taking your time to leave a comment. I appreciate that a lot.
@all-about-cars-basics I have a 97 Z3 1.9, 2001 330i 3.0, 2005 3.0 ZHP, 2008 528i 3.0 and I have done a lot of maintenance work on all of them and learned so much about BMWs mistakes.
I replaced the front suspension on my nephews 2013 320i after he was in a collision and broke the control arms. When I saw that the steering rack was electric and not coming back to center, I started troubleshooting it and it was useless. Then we finally bought the right used steering rack out of 2 that were made and paid $300 to code it in and the problem disappeared.
My take is, stay away from 2013 and up vehicles because everything is made to drive by wire now and prone to fail.
I rebuilt my 1st gen Tacomas steering rack with a $25 seal kit.
I stick with analog because theyre easily rebuildable!!!
My Z3 and my Tacoma are the simplest to work on and they have super high mileage!!!
@@likits1999 So true. It's so unfortunate that the good old days seem to be going away with the best stuff.
I think I have the same issue with my 2018 x3z coolant is leaking
That is always the first culprit to go bad.
The dealer charged me 3000 to replace that.
Wow, well, that is outrageous. I always like to encourage people to avoid the dealership as much as possible. Unless it's necessary and you do not have an alternative to it.