Small world! Bike repair is a cold-weather thing, so I'm back at it. Nobody wants to work on a crank while ferns are still wagging in a warm breeze (I'm one of those binge-fix-and-then-neglect types). So here I am watching some refresher bike repair vids, and I remember the guy in the video! Greetings from the other side of the lake, and thanks.
You've landed on quite an old video of mine! I'm a long-time appreciator of your videos. With the holiday season approaching, I'm sure I'll be revisiting some of your videos in the near future as I try to decide what homemade toys I'll make for my niece and nephew this year.
@@cjhoyle Ha! Thanks. They're lucky. My uncles were not so cool. Although, one did give me a hammer for my 18th birthday, since that's when I "became a man."
Whenever you come across a tough nut to bust or on any threaded item that is too tight to turn, try tightening it up just a wee bit first. This will break the bonds that are holding the threads in place and undo any seizing up between the two metals, allowing you to unscrew most any threaded connections with relative ease.
There are brass jaw caps made by Wilton that are designed to avoid marring the surface of your workpieces. Shop rags help minimize the damage fairly well too.
Always keep chain on big/outer chainring to protect your hands in case the tool slip. Chainring teeth (especially worn sharp ones) can slice open knuckles. Also, I like to use a wrech to lightly tighten down the extractor tools into the crackarm just to ensure threads are fully engaged.
MarzNet256 That's actually a really good tip to keep the chain on the largest chain ring. I've never heard that one before. Of course I always tighten the crank puller onto the crack before removing the crank. I did that in this video (3:07).
You should really protect items when they are in a vice. Easily done with soft jaws or even cloth or rags wrapped around the work piece. No need to damage the crank's surface or its finish. I have been working on bikes for 35 years and would never allow a vice to leave clamping marks. Thank you in any case for the video.
what kind of bike repair kit do you recommend for a starter? been shopping for one with a chain breaking tool. plus those tools you used to get that separated peddle bikes. but ya ur awsome man. been rewatching ur videos. I got into bikes since I bought a bike tow leash for my dog and riding means alot to us now. going to bike class 29th.
I have never been in that situation before, so I have never attempted it myself. However, you should potentially be able to use the same trick on the other side if you can loosen off the fixed cup on the drive side. However, depending on how many chain rings you have on your right crank, there might not be enough room to fit a wrench in there to grip the fixed cup. Give it a try and let me know if you are able to do it!
Thankyou for the quick reply. it is a triple chainset and cannot fit a spanner in that gap. I have tried taping it with a hammer but it keeps slipping off. If I remove the non drive side cups and then use a hammer to try to dislodge the axel. do you think that would work?
Thanks so much for this tutorial video. My drive side hex bolt sheered off inside the cartridge and my crank arm fell off in the middle of the road on the way to work. I went and bought the tool you use and all went smooth to get bike back in action. I owe you a beer
Better to use a long bolt that actually screws into the threads of the axle to knock it out. No risk of damage to threads then. And as someone else mentioned some wood packets when you put it in the vice will minimize the vice graze . Cool video
That guy is simple and to the point, just perfecto. I was thinking I need too many tools to open the crank. I wonder the tool he used to open the crank, is it universal or cranks are of different sizes or vice versa thanks
Thanks for the video. I like to watch your videos because you explain in detail and the camera takes are clear. Also your use of alternative ways to do the job is great. Right now I have a big play in my chainring and I don't see how they are attached to the crank spider. No bolts to be seen. I'll try to get a crank pooler tool and have a look at it. Any idea of how the chainring is attached to the crank?
Some cranksets just have the chainrings riveted on. I guess it's a cheaper way of doing it, but if that's the case with yours you'll probably have to replace the cranks.
Good trick. For those who don't want to mar their cranks with the vise jaws they can put a thin piece of wood between each vise jaw and crank face before tightening the vise. I always keep a few new or even used wooden paint stirrers around so I can break one in half to shield my work from the vise jaws.
You are not the first person to make this recommendation. However, with the enormous amount of force that is normally required to separate these two parts, I think that the crank would slip through the pieces of wood in most cases. I wish I had mentioned this in the video.
I truly enjoy your how to videos, very down to earth and easy for an at home mechanic such as myself to follow, you've saved me so much cash that I feel I should get you a beer or something!
I'm not familiar with SKS fenders specifically, but I've had lots of experience putting fenders on my own bikes. Are they similar to the fenders that I have on this bike? These ones are really easy to install, they just bolt on in 3 places and I've never had problems with them coming off.
SIR where did you score that tool? Will it remove all bottom brackets? I just purchased a kit to repair a 1974 Schwinn 20 inch BB, watching your heads up video I will need that extractor tool.
I just decided to keep my 1 peice crank. A friend of mine has this problem and this helped. He is getting a new crack and crank sprockets. He wants at least a 52 tooth sprocket and this is the best time to do it. He has trouble keeping up with me with his 48 tooth and I laugh cause I slow down for him. I just pedal fast and I can keep up the fast pace with my 48 tooth. He might go faster than me now. Thanks for the video. :)
if you wanted to, could you measure your bottom bracket shelf and install a better external threaded bottom bracket for any crank set assuming the crank and bracket are comparable with each other ? I have a old "lockup bike" and Id like to at least put some better quality stuff on it.
first i would like to say a big thank you for doing a video on how to deal with those threads on the left hand pedal this is my problem solved now thanks to you and the demonstation video was simple and perfect to follow :)
Viorel Agocs has asked the same question, but I do not see an answer or video posted to explain how to do the other side... But what if the threads are damaged on the right crank arm (spider), and you can't pull that out with the crank puller?
Actually this question was asked by "Morris Melara" and I did provide an answer, but I will copy and paste it for you and Viorel and anyone else that happens to be reading this. I have never been in that situation before, so I have never attempted it myself. However, you should potentially be able to use the same trick on the other side if you can loosen off the fixed cup on the drive side. However, depending on how many chain rings you have on your right crank, there might not be enough room to fit a wrench in there to grip the fixed cup. Give it a try and let me know if you are able to do it! He never got back to me, so I'm not sure if it worked.
I don't have any recommendations in term of tool kits. For my collection of tools, I just bought each item when I needed it. However, I'm sure with a kit you'd probably get better value, although you may end up with some tools which you'll never need. One of the best (though most expensive) brands in bike tools is Park Tool, maybe you can find a kit from them. Otherwise I would just recommended buying your tools individually by getting them ordered at your local bike shop.
Thank for the video, can you do the other side? I used that crank removal tool and it did not work and striped the thread on the side with the gears...ans suggestion? before i get my 9" grinder out? TIA
good video!. I have a different problem,i cannot remove my fixed cup cone on the right hand drive side. It's really stuck!!! I do know it's left hand thread,so off clockwise.
Hopefully will help be me do this with new bike .it just keeps coming loose /wobbly when riding .constantly keeps losing up 🤦🏻♀️ tried everything.can you help please.
Is it the bottom bracket bearing that is getting loose, or the cranks? If it's the cranks, a trick I've heard that sometimes works is to remove both cranks and reinstall them 90 degrees from where they were.
my puller threads all the way just fine but no matter how hard I push the the puller end, the crank just won't budge. is there something else I am missing?
I have never been in that situation before, so I have never attempted it myself. However, you should potentially be able to use the same trick on the other side if you can loosen off the fixed cup on the drive side. However, depending on how many chain rings you have on your right crank, there might not be enough room to fit a wrench in there to grip the fixed cup. Give it a try and let me know if you are able to do it!
How you know what size pulley you need for the square taper that you taking crank arm off of? I was thinking it must be a universal size cuz some tapers I researched are round I believe.
As far as I know, the size of the square tappers have been standardized, at least on modern bikes. Some bottom brackets use a spline pattern, rather than a square, but in my experience these are much less common. You will be able to see right away after you remove the nut/bolt whether you have a square or spline.
great job on the video and I just saw that it's from 2013.. how the years fly by I'll have to check out your other videos. just got my first mountain bike used from a family member and haven't worked on bicycles in about 20 years. Giant Warp Ds2 with front and rear suspension. wish me luck maybe I'll make a video. Tom from NJ
My fixed cup is welded on it's only 3mm wide and I can't install UN-26 BB...guy at LBS used fixed cup spanner 36mm wouldn't budge....he said welding heat is the only way to remove....I did see Sheldon brown use a M5 bolt or setup similar
I'm not familiar with your specific bike, but if it's a supercycle it is likely very similar to the one that I showed in this video. Just a simple unsealed bottom bracket.
cjhoyle thank you :) yea it look about the same from the exterior do you think i can unscrew the pin thing with a FLAT screwdriver and a hammer? or i seriously need that tool?
MrBonami2 I highly recommend using a crank puller, they really aren't that expensive. This video shows the correct way to take it all apart and clean it: ua-cam.com/video/VXQA4kNmhPA/v-deo.html
I leave the bolt in and loosen it just a couple turns in order to protect the threads from any objects getting pushed into it. After the shaft is loose, then unscrew the rest of the way.
There is a way of complete non destructive disassembly without the "special tool " which will work on even the most severely seized crank arms. Unscrew the non drive side bearing cup. Now take a shaft of a pedal to use as a punch and hammer the drive side of the crank axle (spindle) the drive side crank is now removed. (make sure the spider is aligned to the bottom bracket while hammering) To remove left crank from the axle , use a lug nut or similar sleave to place on ground. position the left arm over it and hammer the inside of the arm while protecting it with a 2x4. The sleave must fit inside the arm hole and another object like a lug nut or bolt must interfere with the axle. if this does not remove left crank arm THEN using a heavy piece of pipe or tubing that fits around the bearing cup and contacts the inside of the left crank. place the piece of pipe vertically on ground, then place a heavy bushing or socket inside the large hole on the left crank arm to guide a heavy bolt onto the crank axle. then hammer the bolt while holding the other end of the crank arm with your left hand (pedal end). This will work extremely well. Your pipe must fit relatively flush with the crank arm to prevent cosmetic damage. The bushing protects the larger threads on the crank arm and holds the bolt while you use your right hand to hammer the head of the bolt. pipe i used is 5" 1/4 inches long. outside diameter is 1" 5/8. the inside diameter is 1" 3/8 with a wall thickness of about 1/8 " inch or 3mm. The bushing is 1" inch long. with outside diameter 3/4" inch. inside diameter 1/2" inch and a wall thickness of 1/8" inch or 3mm. Bolt i used is 1" 1/2 inch long with 3/8 wide threads. obviously the bolt must clear the bushing and the square taper hole inside the crank arm. If you need a heavy duty pipe similar to above check homedepot for natural gas pipes and/or fencing tubing.. these should be carried in the above size.
Hey, I have a problem with my roadmaster granite peak bike. I'm trying to remove the chainrings but I don't have a crank puller. I tried hammering off the chainring from the other direction. It's not coming off and I need help.
Crank pullers are a very valuable tool. I'd recommend buying or borrowing one. The intent of this video was never to show how to remove cranks without a crank puller.
THANKS ALOT MY FRIEND I ALWAYS NEEDED TO KNOW HOW TO DO THIS CAUSE IM A WINTER RIDER TO AND KNOW HOW BAD THAT CAN BE TO MAINTAIN WITHOUT PROPER KNOW HOW... THANKS AGAIN AND KEEP UP THE GOOD VIDEOS... :)
Even using a cloth in the vice would have stopped that from happening. Most vices also have rubbery guards that come with them. Its not hard to avoid damage from a vice. What you really need to be careful about is not warping your crankset, especially on a K-MART special, like sunrace.
In my experience it really varies a lot. It could be 1 year, or it could be several years. If the bearings get contaminated by sand or dirt they will not last as long.
Had it been the other side that was hard to remove could you have used the same method? I would have protected the Crank arm with a cloth or piece of old rubber inner tube.
cjhoyle thanks ive viewed the video but the next question is, can i take a 3 ring crankset, and place the bottom bracket from that bike, on to a single ring cranksets' bike frame
Good question. The bottom bracket spindles come in different lengths, so it possible that the one for your single ring bike doesn't stick out as far as your 3 ring bike. I don't have a lot of experience with bikes which don't have 3 ring cranks so I can't say for sure. You'll know if you try it though because the rings will rub on the frame.
Great video and excellent information. I have 2 comments. A day or two before doing this procedure, applying some penetrating oil to the area may help a great deal. And #2: That "hook" tool you referred to is called a spanner wrench. That's my 2 cents. Thanks again for a good teaching video.
Does it not move because the cracking is bottoming out of the spindle? This would mean that your spindle is too short for that particular crank (or perhaps it's installed backwards).
Great vids. Do you do service on other peoples bikes, and where are you located ? My bottom bracket is making lots of noise and I have none of the tools or equipment you used. Cheers.
Craig Dobbin These tools should be available through your local bike shop (if they don't have them on the shelf they can order them). If you'd rather leave it to a professional, your local bike shop is your best bet.
PLEASE, I have the same tool but I have a problem because the shaft is just too long and my tool can't go anywhere near the threads, please help, sorry for my english
+cjhoyle no, it is compatible , the sspindle is too far out of the crank and the tool just can not do its job because it can not go near the inside of the crank.
+skiSrp Pre I realize the threads may be the same, but some tools are only compatible with spindles that have bolts rather than nuts and the shaft will no go far enough back.
+skiSrp Pre I live in north and I have noticed that this task is much easier in cold conditions. The thermal expansion of aluminium is higher that thermal expansion of steel. In very cold conditions it is possible to remove this thing simply by hammering.
+skiSrp Pre I live in north and I have noticed that this task is much easier in cold conditions. The thermal expansion of aluminium is higher that thermal expansion of steel. In very cold conditions it is possible to remove this thing simply by hammering.
Forgot to add my daughter was riding the bike and pedal started rubbing on frame after attempting to secure it ball-bearings fell out and this is why I ask thanks for your help
i have shimano nexus 4-gear, a city bike, and i need 3-spline 27 teeth sprocket, where can i find it? right now i have 24 teeth sprocket. original was 21teeth.
ok, i found and installed at the bike mechanic a 26 teeth 3 spline sturmey archer sprocket custom made for a bicycle company, my current sprocket has a 35 mm inner diameter i guess, and it is really good to climb hills with, i can cruse easily too, i am satisfied now, www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201450017511
it was very informative video: A suggestion: To pull down the axil that you did with the vice, use wooden log (rather than using metal rod) to place on axil and hit with hammer, it wont damage the hole of for the bolt, 2nd to avoid marks of vice jaws you can place cloth or two wood plates b/e axil and jaws.
Before you give advice, you should verify that your method actually works. If you read through the other comments, you are not the first person to make such a suggestion. However, I don't think any of you people realize how extreme the amount of force is which is required to separate a crank from the spindle.
i would just put two pieces of wood on either side of the crank arm when it is in the vice to prevent the metal scarring that was shown to happen upon the crank arm in this video
I didn't communicate this in the video very well, but because there is such a high amount of force required to un-wedge these two parts, the smooth outsides of the crank would just slip if you tried to grip them using wood. That being said, there are definitely other ways I could have supported the cranks which would have not left a mark. This is a pretty old video and I would have done it a lot different if I filmed it today.
You need to be able to grip that lock ring to disassemble the bottom bracket. If you don't have tools which can do the job, I recommend either buying them, or taking your bike to your local bike shop.
I agree you should use the correct tools but I have found a plumbers wrench is quite good at unscrewing the lock ring (but it can leave notches on the ring, but I regard that as cosmetic also). e.g. www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/summer-essentials/car-accessories/summer-essentials-deals/?553991720&0&cc5_1055&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqoed6pPx1wIVZpPtCh2RCAr-EAQYAyABEgLOqfD_BwE
Small world! Bike repair is a cold-weather thing, so I'm back at it. Nobody wants to work on a crank while ferns are still wagging in a warm breeze (I'm one of those binge-fix-and-then-neglect types). So here I am watching some refresher bike repair vids, and I remember the guy in the video! Greetings from the other side of the lake, and thanks.
You've landed on quite an old video of mine! I'm a long-time appreciator of your videos. With the holiday season approaching, I'm sure I'll be revisiting some of your videos in the near future as I try to decide what homemade toys I'll make for my niece and nephew this year.
@@cjhoyle Ha! Thanks. They're lucky. My uncles were not so cool. Although, one did give me a hammer for my 18th birthday, since that's when I "became a man."
Whenever you come across a tough nut to bust or on any threaded item that is too tight to turn, try tightening it up just a wee bit first. This will break the bonds that are holding the threads in place and undo any seizing up between the two metals, allowing you to unscrew most any threaded connections with relative ease.
There are brass jaw caps made by Wilton that are designed to avoid marring the surface of your workpieces. Shop rags help minimize the damage fairly well too.
Very nice videos you got here, you take your time explaining, they are HD, whole process, and no music. Thanks man!
so cool of you to make this video for someone who was having problem with theirs
Always keep chain on big/outer chainring to protect your hands in case the tool slip. Chainring teeth (especially worn sharp ones) can slice open knuckles. Also, I like to use a wrech to lightly tighten down the extractor tools into the crackarm just to ensure threads are fully engaged.
MarzNet256 That's actually a really good tip to keep the chain on the largest chain ring. I've never heard that one before. Of course I always tighten the crank puller onto the crack before removing the crank. I did that in this video (3:07).
You should really protect items when they are in a vice. Easily done with soft jaws or even cloth or rags wrapped around the work piece. No need to damage the crank's surface or its finish. I have been working on bikes for 35 years and would never allow a vice to leave clamping marks.
Thank you in any case for the video.
This video has been posted for more than 6 years and I've already addressed this comment more than once.
To quote another viewer, "Great tutorial as usual. BEST BIKE TUTORIALS ON UA-cam!" I borrowed a crank puller and I'm gonna clean my bike
Great tutorial as usual. BEST BIKE TUTORIALS ON UA-cam!
what kind of bike repair kit do you recommend for a starter? been shopping for one with a chain breaking tool. plus those tools you used to get that separated peddle bikes. but ya ur awsome man. been rewatching ur videos. I got into bikes since I bought a bike tow leash for my dog and riding means alot to us now. going to bike class 29th.
This video was really helpful as the threads in my crank arm are stripped and my crank puller is not of much use. Thanks!
can you use this method on the drive side of the bb as my threads have stripped and this method is the best that I have seen.
I have never been in that situation before, so I have never attempted it myself. However, you should potentially be able to use the same trick on the other side if you can loosen off the fixed cup on the drive side. However, depending on how many chain rings you have on your right crank, there might not be enough room to fit a wrench in there to grip the fixed cup. Give it a try and let me know if you are able to do it!
Thankyou for the quick reply. it is a triple chainset and cannot fit a spanner in that gap. I have tried taping it with a hammer but it keeps slipping off. If I remove the non drive side cups and then use a hammer to try to dislodge the axel. do you think that would work?
Thanks so much for this tutorial video. My drive side hex bolt sheered off inside the cartridge and my crank arm fell off in the middle of the road on the way to work. I went and bought the tool you use and all went smooth to get bike back in action.
I owe you a beer
Better to use a long bolt that actually screws into the threads of the axle to knock it out. No risk of damage to threads then. And as someone else mentioned some wood packets when you put it in the vice will minimize the vice graze . Cool video
That guy is simple and to the point, just perfecto. I was thinking I need too many tools to open the crank. I wonder the tool he used to open the crank, is it universal or cranks are of different sizes or vice versa thanks
The tool is universal for square tapered bottom brackets (like the ones I showed in this video).
Another quality video! I really like how not only do you show how to do things, but also explain why. Thanks!
Hey mate will a normal ratchet work or i have to buy the tool that you have ?
Thanks for the video. I like to watch your videos because you explain in detail and the camera takes are clear. Also your use of alternative ways to do the job is great.
Right now I have a big play in my chainring and I don't see how they are attached to the crank spider. No bolts to be seen. I'll try to get a crank pooler tool and have a look at it. Any idea of how the chainring is attached to the crank?
Some cranksets just have the chainrings riveted on. I guess it's a cheaper way of doing it, but if that's the case with yours you'll probably have to replace the cranks.
Good trick. For those who don't want to mar their cranks with the vise jaws they can put a thin piece of wood between each vise jaw and crank face before tightening the vise. I always keep a few new or even used wooden paint stirrers around so I can break one in half to shield my work from the vise jaws.
You are not the first person to make this recommendation. However, with the enormous amount of force that is normally required to separate these two parts, I think that the crank would slip through the pieces of wood in most cases. I wish I had mentioned this in the video.
I truly enjoy your how to videos, very down to earth and easy for an at home mechanic such as myself to follow, you've saved me so much cash that I feel I should get you a beer or something!
I'm not familiar with SKS fenders specifically, but I've had lots of experience putting fenders on my own bikes. Are they similar to the fenders that I have on this bike? These ones are really easy to install, they just bolt on in 3 places and I've never had problems with them coming off.
simply use some 'soft jaws', pieces of wood, or rags between the crank arm & vise jaws, & you will not have teeth marks on your parts
Please read my response to the many other people who have made that suggestion.
SIR where did you score that tool? Will it remove all bottom brackets? I just purchased a kit to repair a 1974 Schwinn 20 inch BB, watching your heads up video I will need that extractor tool.
I just decided to keep my 1 peice crank. A friend of mine has this problem and this helped. He is getting a new crack and crank sprockets. He wants at least a 52 tooth sprocket and this is the best time to do it. He has trouble keeping up with me with his 48 tooth and I laugh cause I slow down for him. I just pedal fast and I can keep up the fast pace with my 48 tooth. He might go faster than me now. Thanks for the video. :)
if you wanted to, could you measure your bottom bracket shelf and install a better external threaded bottom bracket for any crank set assuming the crank and bracket are comparable with each other ? I have a old "lockup bike" and Id like to at least put some better quality stuff on it.
Yes, this style of bottom bracket can be replaced with a cartridge bearing bottom bracket.
you could have used heavy duty rubber to hold the crank in the vice grip.
Would this be a good trike to do if u don't have a crank arm remover tool at the start for either arm? I'm new to having to do work on bikes..
No, this trick only works if you're able to remove the right crank first.
I'm new to your channel, but finding it very informative. Many thanks and please continue the good work!
Well done. Explained for the common person and with accessible tools.
first i would like to say a big thank you for doing a video on how to deal with those threads on the left hand pedal this is my problem solved now thanks to you and the demonstation video was simple and perfect to follow :)
Viorel Agocs has asked the same question, but I do not see an answer or video posted to explain how to do the other side...
But what if the threads are damaged on the right crank arm (spider), and you can't pull that out with the crank puller?
Actually this question was asked by "Morris Melara" and I did provide an answer, but I will copy and paste it for you and Viorel and anyone else that happens to be reading this.
I have never been in that situation before, so I have never attempted it myself. However, you should potentially be able to use the same trick on the other side if you can loosen off the fixed cup on the drive side. However, depending on how many chain rings you have on your right crank, there might not be enough room to fit a wrench in there to grip the fixed cup. Give it a try and let me know if you are able to do it!
He never got back to me, so I'm not sure if it worked.
Hey thanks cj. Great trick. was having this exact issue with the left crank arm and want to throw the whole bike off a cliff.
I don't have any recommendations in term of tool kits. For my collection of tools, I just bought each item when I needed it. However, I'm sure with a kit you'd probably get better value, although you may end up with some tools which you'll never need. One of the best (though most expensive) brands in bike tools is Park Tool, maybe you can find a kit from them. Otherwise I would just recommended buying your tools individually by getting them ordered at your local bike shop.
Thank for the video, can you do the other side? I used that crank removal tool and it did not work and striped the thread on the side with the gears...ans suggestion? before i get my 9" grinder out? TIA
good video!. I have a different problem,i cannot remove my fixed cup cone on the right hand drive side. It's really stuck!!! I do know it's left hand thread,so off clockwise.
Hi
Where Can I buy this crank remover 2:22
Thx
Do you think a sealey ak380 would remove a crank as my bottom bracket is a Isis and has splines,so the tool with a tooth on it won,t work
Hopefully will help be me do this with new bike .it just keeps coming loose /wobbly when riding .constantly keeps losing up 🤦🏻♀️ tried everything.can you help please.
Is it the bottom bracket bearing that is getting loose, or the cranks? If it's the cranks, a trick I've heard that sometimes works is to remove both cranks and reinstall them 90 degrees from where they were.
i never thought of keeping the locking ring on the edge so to simplify the removal, thanks for that very useful tip...
Are you referring to the lock-ring hook tool? You can definitely buy those through any bike shop.
my puller threads all the way just fine but no matter how hard I push the the puller end, the crank just won't budge. is there something else I am missing?
I have never been in that situation before, so I have never attempted it myself. However, you should potentially be able to use the same trick on the other side if you can loosen off the fixed cup on the drive side. However, depending on how many chain rings you have on your right crank, there might not be enough room to fit a wrench in there to grip the fixed cup. Give it a try and let me know if you are able to do it!
What to when the crank threading has worn out. Any tension on the puller and it just falls out.
i have a crank that has twonuts on it instead of bolts -how do i take off with out the crank remover
Is that a tool you made, or where can we buy something like that?
How you know what size pulley you need for the square taper that you taking crank arm off of? I was thinking it must be a universal size cuz some tapers I researched are round I believe.
As far as I know, the size of the square tappers have been standardized, at least on modern bikes. Some bottom brackets use a spline pattern, rather than a square, but in my experience these are much less common. You will be able to see right away after you remove the nut/bolt whether you have a square or spline.
that multi tool is sick
Good day sir nice vid, may I know where did you buy that 3in1 crank puller ty..
MEC
I would like to know about the nut that's on the other it has two flat spots and I'm having issues with what is the trick to removing it
For that I would recommend my video: How to Take Apart and Service the Bottom Bracket on a Bicycle.
That was very ingenious, thanks. I will use that technique in the future.
Thanks!
what crank puller brand/name are you using?
Ninky Nonk Crank Puller,😂
great job on the video and I just saw that it's from 2013.. how the years fly by I'll have to check out your other videos. just got my first mountain bike used from a family member and haven't worked on bicycles in about 20 years. Giant Warp Ds2 with front and rear suspension. wish me luck maybe I'll make a video. Tom from NJ
My fixed cup is welded on it's only 3mm wide and I can't install UN-26 BB...guy at LBS used fixed cup spanner 36mm wouldn't budge....he said welding heat is the only way to remove....I did see Sheldon brown use a M5 bolt or setup similar
i have a supercycle phantom 29 and im trying to know what kind of bottom bracket replacement it is size etc.
Any idea?
I'm not familiar with your specific bike, but if it's a supercycle it is likely very similar to the one that I showed in this video. Just a simple unsealed bottom bracket.
cjhoyle thank you :) yea it look about the same from the exterior do you think i can unscrew the pin thing with a FLAT screwdriver and a hammer? or i seriously need that tool?
MrBonami2 I highly recommend using a crank puller, they really aren't that expensive. This video shows the correct way to take it all apart and clean it: ua-cam.com/video/VXQA4kNmhPA/v-deo.html
bike shop should have them i think gonna see. i can order at worst
I leave the bolt in and loosen it just a couple turns in order to protect the threads from any objects getting pushed into it. After the shaft is loose, then unscrew the rest of the way.
There is a way of complete non destructive disassembly without the "special tool " which will work on even the most severely seized crank arms. Unscrew the non drive side bearing cup. Now take a shaft of a pedal to use as a punch and hammer the drive side of the crank axle (spindle) the drive side crank is now removed. (make sure the spider is aligned to the bottom bracket while hammering) To remove left crank from the axle , use a lug nut or similar sleave to place on ground. position the left arm over it and hammer the inside of the arm while protecting it with a 2x4. The sleave must fit inside the arm hole and another object like a lug nut or bolt must interfere with the axle. if this does not remove left crank arm THEN using a heavy piece of pipe or tubing that fits around the bearing cup and contacts the inside of the left crank. place the piece of pipe vertically on ground, then place a heavy bushing or socket inside the large hole on the left crank arm to guide a heavy bolt onto the crank axle. then hammer the bolt while holding the other end of the crank arm with your left hand (pedal end). This will work extremely well. Your pipe must fit relatively flush with the crank arm to prevent cosmetic damage. The bushing protects the larger threads on the crank arm and holds the bolt while you use your right hand to hammer the head of the bolt. pipe i used is 5" 1/4 inches long. outside diameter is 1" 5/8. the inside diameter is 1" 3/8 with a wall thickness of about 1/8 " inch or 3mm. The bushing is 1" inch long. with outside diameter 3/4" inch. inside diameter 1/2" inch and a wall thickness of 1/8" inch or 3mm. Bolt i used is 1" 1/2 inch long with 3/8 wide threads. obviously the bolt must clear the bushing and the square taper hole inside the crank arm. If you need a heavy duty pipe similar to above check homedepot for natural gas pipes and/or fencing tubing.. these should be carried in the above size.
Hey, I have a problem with my roadmaster granite peak bike. I'm trying to remove the chainrings but I don't have a crank puller. I tried hammering off the chainring from the other direction. It's not coming off and I need help.
Crank pullers are a very valuable tool. I'd recommend buying or borrowing one. The intent of this video was never to show how to remove cranks without a crank puller.
Great idea my road bike chainset right and side is recked will try that way cheers
Thanks cj....good alternate way to remove a stubborn crank arm....
THANKS ALOT MY FRIEND I ALWAYS NEEDED TO KNOW HOW TO DO THIS CAUSE IM A WINTER RIDER TO AND KNOW HOW BAD THAT CAN BE TO MAINTAIN WITHOUT PROPER KNOW HOW... THANKS AGAIN AND KEEP UP THE GOOD VIDEOS... :)
Even using a cloth in the vice would have stopped that from happening. Most vices also have rubbery guards that come with them. Its not hard to avoid damage from a vice. What you really need to be careful about is not warping your crankset, especially on a K-MART special, like sunrace.
Please refer to my response to others who left a similar comment.
Hi
How long the life of the spindler and bearings last ?
Thanx
In my experience it really varies a lot. It could be 1 year, or it could be several years. If the bearings get contaminated by sand or dirt they will not last as long.
Had it been the other side that was hard to remove could you have used the same method? I would have protected the Crank arm with a cloth or piece of old rubber inner tube.
Please read my answers to other comments.
Very Good! well explained and good demo, appreciated. Thanks.
my arms of my bottom bracket spindle are bent down, can i change it out from another bike??
Yes. I would recommend my video titled: How to Take Apart and Service the Bottom Bracket on a Bicycle.
cjhoyle thanks ive viewed the video but the next question is, can i take a 3 ring crankset, and place the bottom bracket from that bike, on to a single ring cranksets' bike frame
Good question. The bottom bracket spindles come in different lengths, so it possible that the one for your single ring bike doesn't stick out as far as your 3 ring bike. I don't have a lot of experience with bikes which don't have 3 ring cranks so I can't say for sure. You'll know if you try it though because the rings will rub on the frame.
Great video and excellent information. I have 2 comments. A day or two before doing this procedure, applying some penetrating oil to the area may help a great deal. And #2: That "hook" tool you referred to is called a spanner wrench. That's my 2 cents. Thanks again for a good teaching video.
Thanks.
You are perfect to be part of Part Tool. 😊
haha thanks.
@@cjhoyle for real..
When I tighten my bottom bracket the spindle cannot move,what could be the problem?.
Does it not move because the cracking is bottoming out of the spindle? This would mean that your spindle is too short for that particular crank (or perhaps it's installed backwards).
Great vids. Do you do service on other peoples bikes, and where are you located ? My bottom bracket is making lots of noise and I have none of the tools or equipment you used. Cheers.
Craig Dobbin These tools should be available through your local bike shop (if they don't have them on the shelf they can order them). If you'd rather leave it to a professional, your local bike shop is your best bet.
But what if the threads are damaged on the right crank, and you can't pull that out with the crank puller?
PLEASE, I have the same tool but I have a problem because the shaft is just too long and my tool can't go anywhere near the threads, please help, sorry for my english
+skiSrp Pre If your tool is incompatible with your bike then you will need to replace it with one which is compatible.
+cjhoyle no, it is compatible , the sspindle is too far out of the crank and the tool just can not do its job because it can not go near the inside of the crank.
+skiSrp Pre I realize the threads may be the same, but some tools are only compatible with spindles that have bolts rather than nuts and the shaft will no go far enough back.
+skiSrp Pre I live in north and I have noticed that this task is much easier in cold conditions. The thermal expansion of aluminium is higher that thermal expansion of steel. In very cold conditions it is possible to remove this thing simply by hammering.
+skiSrp Pre I live in north and I have noticed that this task is much easier in cold conditions. The thermal expansion of aluminium is higher that thermal expansion of steel. In very cold conditions it is possible to remove this thing simply by hammering.
Forgot to add my daughter was riding the bike and pedal started rubbing on frame after attempting to secure it ball-bearings fell out and this is why I ask thanks for your help
Hey were did you get the crank puller from. I need one of those
The make/model is "FILZER CRANK MULTI WRENCH"
and I bought it from Mountain Equipment Co-op (mec.ca) which is a Canadian outdoors store.
i have shimano nexus 4-gear, a city bike, and i need 3-spline 27 teeth sprocket, where can i find it? right now i have 24 teeth sprocket. original was 21teeth.
ask your local bike shop?
hi, i asked them, but they don't know if it even exists, so i asked shimano company to produce it.
ok, i found and installed at the bike mechanic a 26 teeth 3 spline sturmey archer sprocket custom made for a bicycle company, my current sprocket has a 35 mm inner diameter i guess, and it is really good to climb hills with, i can cruse easily too, i am satisfied now, www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201450017511
it was very informative video: A suggestion: To pull down the axil that you did with the vice, use wooden log (rather than using metal rod) to place on axil and hit with hammer, it wont damage the hole of for the bolt, 2nd to avoid marks of vice jaws you can place cloth or two wood plates b/e axil and jaws.
Before you give advice, you should verify that your method actually works. If you read through the other comments, you are not the first person to make such a suggestion. However, I don't think any of you people realize how extreme the amount of force is which is required to separate a crank from the spindle.
Thats my mistake that I didnt read the comments. Accept my apologies.
love your video mate!
Thanks!
Excellent video, thanks.
No problem.
i would just put two pieces of wood on either side of the crank arm when it is in the vice to prevent the metal scarring that was shown to happen upon the crank arm in this video
I didn't communicate this in the video very well, but because there is such a high amount of force required to un-wedge these two parts, the smooth outsides of the crank would just slip if you tried to grip them using wood. That being said, there are definitely other ways I could have supported the cranks which would have not left a mark. This is a pretty old video and I would have done it a lot different if I filmed it today.
There are two crank arms on a bike, but only one crank. That's a great trick for cup/cone bottom brackets, but will not work for sealed units.
Great accent, great help, great video, thanks.
haha thanks.
where do you get the crank puller from? where can i buy one?
You should be able to purchase one through your local bike shop.
very good tutorial
what if you don't have the hook tool how do you do it then
You need to be able to grip that lock ring to disassemble the bottom bracket. If you don't have tools which can do the job, I recommend either buying them, or taking your bike to your local bike shop.
I agree you should use the correct tools but I have found a plumbers wrench is quite good at unscrewing the lock ring (but it can leave notches on the ring, but I regard that as cosmetic also).
e.g. www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/summer-essentials/car-accessories/summer-essentials-deals/?553991720&0&cc5_1055&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqoed6pPx1wIVZpPtCh2RCAr-EAQYAyABEgLOqfD_BwE
Excellent vid, presentationand editing. Was looking for instructions on an old style 3 piece BB
What's that hook tool called?
A hook spanner.
cjhoyle looks likes shock adjuster on MC????
What if I have stripped dust-caps on both sides?
I recommend removing the broken dust-cap fragments. Try to use something to break them up and extract them so you can get a crank remover in there.
good video buddy very helpful
This was actually really freakin helpful!
Awesome video thanks for sharing
YOU ARE A GENIUS SIR THANK YOU
how can i remove both of them without having a crank puller
I don't have any advice for achieving this. Crank pullers are by far the easiest and best way to remove a crank.
Miguel Avila i just banged the left crank arm with a mallet on the back side and it popped right off.
This video was very helpful, thanks maaan
You had the puller, Why go through all this instead of removing the bolt since the begining?
For the reason explained in the video.
Thank for video! Resolved my problem with hammmmmmmer. 👏
Thanks for the usefull video!
Thanks for this tutorial video sir , it was very helpfull for my crankset set up hehe God bless ♡
@03:19 and the threads on the crank strip,,,,,,,,,,,,,, well mine did. Now what?
Good job.
what if u don't have a crank puller?
I recommend getting one.
It is a "Filzer Crank Multi Wrench" (Product Number: 5010-744) which I purchased from Mountain Equipment Co-op.