Remove Cranks Without A Crank Puller
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- I show how to pull the crankset off a bicycle without a puller tool. I have seen a lot of suggestions for removing bike crank arms without a crank puller, but most of them are bad ideas. I walk through each of these ideas and show some that will actually work without damaging the crankset or bottom bracket. I demonstrate successfully removing cranks without a crank puller in a couple different methods.
The bolts I showed were 7/16" for the square taper cranks, and 3/8" for the Octalink/ISIS (International Splined Interface Standard) cranks.
My recommendation is if you really care about your bicycle, buy the crank puller tool. They are usually relatively cheap. But some people live in places where simple tool like a crank puller would be extraordinarily expensive or hard to get. Like in deep rural areas of some countries. This video is for them.
Park Tool Compact Crank Puller
www.amazon.com...
How To Remove Crank Arm With Stripped Threads
• How To Remove Crank Ar...
How to NOT Strip Crank Arm Threads When Removing Cranks
• How to NOT Strip Crank...
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This is probably my first UA-cam comment ever. Since UA-cam was born. This video convinced me to buy a crank puller. You need to get into marketing.
Same, and I don’t even have a bike.
I have the tool lost it came here to see if there was any ideas. I’ll go back to looking for the tool.
@@Phil-qz6octr3[reereeee
If it was your first comment ever !! did you really need to say probably ?? White lies are OK though 😊
Hahahaha
I know this is a really old video, but I just wanted to say thanks. I live on a tiny island and it will take a month for a crank puller to get here, so I replicated your last method exactly (but with a metric bolt haha) and it worked a treat. I'm fixing up a really nice old bike from the 80s that I found in the trash, just for the purposes of learning and fun. I love your approach and your videos have been a gold mine of wisdom, so again, many many thanks.
RJ-this is Steve Pedigo THE Bikeguy in Alpine, Texas!. It has been great seeing someone showing useful techniques for doing bike work. Though I have been doing this for many years, it's always refreshing to see someone else thatcares about the work they do-at least, on video. I've seen so many bike techs that are jaded, and don't care about their customer's bikes. Thank you for taking the time...
Thank God for this video. I've got a crank with threads destroyed and didn't know what to do.
Good ideas. I've got a crank arm with stripped threads and will try these out.
Perfect Man. Had stripped out threads & been o there since late 90's. 2×4 & hammer
Thanks man 🏁🏁🏁🏁
For those who don't have the time and patience to saw through the cranks or the bottom bracket, and don't mind damaging things when the crank threads are in a bad state already, thwack the chain rings directly with a hammer (rotating them between blows) and, for the trickier non-drive side crank, place a plank sideways on the ground and rest the inner surface of the crank, near the axle, on the plank - then hammer DOWN on the end of the crank using the plank as a pivot. This has worked well for me and the bottom bracket was still in good working order, amazingly!
Hi RJ, been a while, I just replaced my crank arm the same way that I change my bearings, for years, never hurts anything unless it falls on my toe, I use the butane torch, all plastic off, heat ,and torn while applying pressure with a large screwdriver, fell off too fast the other day and hit my toe, Take care, trampolines today and tomorrow.☺ FanTom USA
Sometimes you can't just buy the tool.It might be a case of the tool broke or would not work if the threads are stripped out,as happened to me.
I love you very authentic, down and dirty, advice. I spent much time looking at rich kids in lycra giving their methods. You show the option! Great work!
Great video he goes through every jimyrig solution one after the other.
Lots of good tips to not hurt your bike. Best quote: ' the operation was a success, but the patients dead' 😂
Im currently getting an aluminium one off a steel bike using caustic soda. It’s super destructive and a bit dangerous, but works if you’re desperate.
I’ve gotten a stuck quill stem out this way, aluminium sometimes chemically bonds to steel, but it melts in caustic soda where steel is not too bothered by it
Thank you for being so thorough! Excellent video!
Thank you so much. Tried to work out for 30 minutes until saw this video.
Thank you for this. I'm in the process of trying to rescue a much abused bike that was left out withe the trash. Tying to pull the drive side crank to replace the chain rings and it's jammed so tight my crank extractor just pulled the threads out.
I think I'll be trying the gear puller, more affordable than I feared. But you have given me options as well.
thanks, you have no idea how many times you help me out
Very helpful tips here! It's nice to have options that don't always focus on beating the heck out of the bike! Thank you :-)
so glad you ended it with "just buy the tool". It's definitely one worth having.
Yea, but I am broke and 14 years old.
How much are they?
@@captainnemo2150 about £12, halfords charge £10 so your best off just getting one if you plan on needing a new crank arm more than once
Captain Nemo in China you can buy it for $2.50
I bought one SO SORRY I DID instead of pulling it apart like it supposed to - apparently both of my square spindles are special NOT beware of buying you bicycle tools of amazon! It ripped the threads out of my pedal hanger ruining it! I could have saved myself about 30$ and a headache! Beings I know have to buy a new one I could have just cut it off (yes I used the tool properly!) Evidently mine are put on with more tourqe than the threads would stand up to
RJ I have benefited from many of your videos for quite some time, Just wanted to add one point about using a gear puller. In my area Southern CA - San Diego my local auto parts stores Orielly AKA Kragan and Auto Zone have gear pullers in their free tool rental program. Basically you put up a deposit equal to the price of the tool, use it, return it and get a full refund. In general what I do when I have a challenge with one of my bikes, #1 get the right tool for the job, if the tool wont work or it is one I would not use often I watch RJ the bike guy to learn how to make my own version of the tool and go from there
Can you please recommend the actual best method instead showing all the things you shouldn’t do. It felt painstakingly long to get the right info
Your advice worked a treat. One of my 1989 Shimano cranks had a damaged thread but eventually came off with your final method. Thanks very much.
Do yourself a favour, save time and effort - buy the correct tool, you know, the one designed for the job, and never look back. I dont like using hammers on bearings, not one little bit, so will always use a puller which puts NO stress on the bearings, but you do you 😂
I have that problem, I'll try.
Many many thanks.
Best regards from Italy.
I was think of Scotty Kilmer when I hear you speak...and it tickles me
I certainly wouldn't give that dude my klein mantra... Bent chainrings
Love scotty and rj---but the tool with hot water and hammering worked--even a propane torch didn't
Rev up your crank arms!
+1 "just buy a crank puller". Cheap versus potentially trashing the whole bicycle frame!
Stuck or squeaking square tapered BBs are the biggest pain in the ass I have ever experienced with my bikes. Thank god for Hollowtech. It's the best thing that happened to cycling in ages, maybe ever.
Thank you dor the best toturial
I have the correct tool but I got a second hand bike where the thread on the chainset for the crank extractor tool had been stripped by the previous owner. Loosening the bolt and taking it out for a ride worked great for me.
I hope you are planning on replacing the crank then.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Yes, I replaced it with a much better crank.
This guy is very useful ....every time i got problem on my bike..i go to his channel...
... and to Amazon afterwards I hope ....🤗
He is a pro with a nice clear presentation!
I got the tool ... tighten it snug ... but the crank arm was so tight to the spindle ... it striped the threads! looks like I have to buy the puller.
I may haveto buy one only if I can find a 32 or 22 crank kit to swap out my Huffy parkside sprocket
How did you know I needed this video RJ!
A retro 14mm crank bolt head (unrimmed) is also the perfect octalink adapter if you have a puller but no adapter, drop the bolt in threads to the inside.
Nice to have a video for all the folks who didn’t watch “How to remove a crank without stripping the threads.” We needed that...
For more bike repair videos hit the subscribe button 🛑 and click the notification bell ► bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy
Great video, i fitted a UN300 bb and then put my drive side chainset on but forgotten that it was bent so i wanted to remove again, the thread went on my crank puller so the srive side is stuck, as long as i can remove it, as you say i dont want to damge the BB, ut doesn't matter if the chainset gets damaged because I will be putting a new one on. Thank you.
I have a crank tool, but somehow wants to watch this anyway.
They are cheap, there is no excuse to not have one.
One super cheap one (2 usd) damaged the threads for my bottom bracket (where goes those screws which tighten the crankarm) and when i got a better one (5 usd) it kinda worked, but the outter threads for it wasn't very precise, and they just didn't really hold the crankarm and rounded up the threads for crankarm. Just get a good tool (i'd say 10-20 dollars) and be very carefull when removing crankarms.
Elvis yeah I mean even a park puller is super reasonable. If a person is too cheap to spend 10 dollars on a quality crank, cycling is not the hobby for them lol
I completely agree; it seems stupid to do it any other way. Cheap people are funny :P
What store can I buy one from??
@@ExploringWithJared Ebay, amazon, etsy...etc...or any online cycling supply business.
Buy the damned tool u cheapskate!! Save yourself lots of time & frustration & bad language too 😅😅😅
neil froggy crompton lol
after Googling one that was under 3USD.... Even I wouldnt waste time looking for cheaper alternative...
If you already have a pulley puller why wait days for the "right" tool to arrive?
True but if it's going to be a one time use why buy it
How to NOT Strip Crank Arm Threads When Removing Cranks: ua-cam.com/video/j5gmAkMLX60/v-deo.html
Finally someone preaching sense instead of ruining good parts due to the laziness of getting the right tool.
What I like about RJ is that he doesn't just tell you what is right and wrong, he explains rationally why something is right or wrong, so you are left with little doubt.
If you have gotten stuck with a used bike whose crank-arms keep coming loose, and even thread glue doesn't keep them on, now you know how they got this way. Continuing to ride the bike home after they have gotten wobbly will finish the job of trashing them.
I have a collection of crank arms that were either damaged by hammering on the back side, the front side (with the bolt sticking out but not far enough), or by using a gear puller. That's right, a regular gear puller damages the arms.
But you can knock them loose if you hammer the spindle out of the arm:
ua-cam.com/video/0ihYHNBDwJ8/v-deo.html
This arm in the above video was already damaged from someone hammering on the half-removed bolt as mentioned above. Moving the point of impact away from the face of the crank solves that issue. As for mis-strikes, the BEST driver to use is an M8x1mm bolt that's longer than the original: I've used a vintage solid front axle for this, but didn't have one handy for the video I linked. The second best option is to find a punch that's fairly snug in the hole, so that it doesn't move around as you're trying to strike it.
There's also a positioning issue: If you have to knock the spindle out of the arm, it's best to balance the seat and bars on a bench or even the back of your couch, and hold the bottom of the frame up to level by holding the crank arm with your free hand. I couldn't do that for the video I linked, because I couldn't get the tripod high enough to point down at me doing that.
WoW.... I've just got that trouble recently and I almost gave up until I saw your inspirational video. Thanks Mr R.J. I will pull the Crank soon with one of your recommendation. God Bless You.
I tryed with that 3 arm puller ...boy i have broke tha puller ! It was that hard to get it off :( , and the puller costs like 100 $ . So buy that little crank puller and go with God speed :)
Best ad I've ever seen for "just buy the (proper) tool" . My thoughts exactly. Work smarter not harder.
No the proper tool stripped the thread. I had to get a gear puller which is a more effective tool that isn't even designed for bikes.
Why does everyone on the internet try to assert their intelligence smh we are all dumb animals
the operation was a success, but you killed the patient XD
i tried to buy a crank puller here locally , and its not available .plus to order one is 2 weeks . but i will get one . in the mean time , my left crank arm comes of relatively easy . i used a large open wrench in the ball joint remover fashion . it was just a little bigger than the space between the bottom crank and arm . it popped right off . then i was able to pull the spindle with the ring gear and crank arm together. so i had the nut on the spindle backed off a little . and used a socket and a extension , the nut has a flange on it . i used a hammer to pound on the extension . and drove the spindle out a little , backed off the nut a little more , once . after that it was loose enough to drive out directly on the spindle with the nut removed using the extension, minus the socket .
The additional detail of what size bolts to use for square taper vs octolink is why I watch your videos. Great job. There are lots of people who don't have the resources to spend even $5 for a puller and this will show the pros and cons of each method. As always illuminating.
Wait so they bought a $300 bike and doesn't have $5 to buy a tool for the bike?smh
@@timothysooknanan3990 s300 for a bike ?
more like 150 dollars
Since April and thanks to your vids I've: fixed 3 kid size bikes (thought 1 kid how to ride); renovated an old mountain bike from the late 90s (strip down every single part except BB); bought and tuned a 2009 Specialized Hard Rock for myself (rode 150km these past 3 weeks); tuned a foldie for my sister and am in the process of renovating 2 more mtbs. THANK YOU!
I bought the Park Tool twenty years ago for cheap. My estimate is it will last forever at the rate I use it. Yes, it will outlast mankind.
I used your bearing puller method on a crank with stripped threads and it worked great after heating up and cooling it down a few times.
One way to remove is to take your right arm and hold the peddle firm and vibrate it in and out very quickly while pulling towards you to loosen it out remember grasp very firm.
So I was trying to remove my pre-1980's Stronglite cranks (I don't have the special Stronglite crank puller as they are one, difficult to come by - Velo Orange was sold out and ebay was sketchy as it was all Polish vendors who said shipping would take over a month to reach the states - and two, they are over-priced at $40-$60+) and I tried using the 3 jaw gear puller method which, to me, seemed the most legit without using the actual crank puller tool. Well, who knows when the last time those cranks were pulled off and I ended up bending the crank bolt trying to extract the cranks which didn't even budge... Luckily the bolt still screws in about 3/4 of the way and I used several more spacers to accommodate for the space so that it tightens down at least. Now I'm left wondering how the hell I'm going to get the cranks off without cutting them off so that I can service the BB... Might just cut them off and install a modern BB, cranks and sprocket.
To me, the vice idea is the nicest. I designed a wooden puller tool for stripped threads with three long and wide headed bolts and three holes in a block, the heads of two bolts on the sides would go under the chainring and the middle bolt would push the bottom bracket axle. Also I have a soviet chainsaw puller tool that my dad lathed into the correct thread and this is now my main crank arm remover. But yet to try that wooden block puller, I think it would be a very cheap solution, although considering time, I saw a cheap puller for 2 bucks online, so essentially it would still be reasonable to get the real thing.
The last idea is good if the cranks have not come loose with the crank puller and the threads in the cranks are stripped at this point.
You can heat it up and it will loosen up...works for every time for me
I have rarely had heat work.
I’m gonna buy the tool.
Another excellent video. Thanks for the information.
sooooo....spend 10$ on the right tool?
Are you new to RJ The Bike Guy?
LOL!!!!
Your vids are great...
An automotive gear puller sounds like the solution , especially if the bike crank puller tool strips the threads ? 😎
Thank you for your wisdom sir. 🎉
Stripped crank-puller-mount threads are the common problem in used bicycles that people want working again where "the tool" will not work. Cutting takes just as long, is noisy, creates filings and uses up cutoff wheels. I like the bearing puller (triple-hook thing), but put a few, light, hammer-taps to help walk the crank off in a parallel motion.
I think not all the puller tools are the same. Thread and sizes can differ so it's best if you check before you buy one.
Speaking from experience: The pickle fork is too wide. It just cuts into the crank arm without applying any outward pressure.
On my project (the threads are stripped so I'm scrapping the cranks anyway) the back of the crank arms are beveled, so gear pullers spread out and fall right off.
My next option is a pitman arm puller, which is like a gear puller with the arms built into the base rather than pivoting, so they can't spread. That would work, but I don't already have one and it would cost as much or more than a new bottom bracket, I think the hacksaw is the best answer.
A while ago i was faced with a cheap steel crankset with stripped treads n no way 2 get it off, easy fix was hit it with the blow torch n it fell off in 1 tap!
RJ now you are going to have to set up a give away for a crank tool on the honor system for the person who does not have one or the kid without the money for one.
Don’t forget physics. The coefficient of expansion of aluminum is considerably higher that that of steel. If the crank is aluminum, heating it, after removing the fixing bolt or nut, may loosen it enough to make removal with any of the non destructive methods easier. If you don’t have a hot air gun, try pouring a pot of boiling water on the head of the crank arm. Worked for me on a stuck crank. Though I was using a Park puller, the crank stubbornly wouldn’t budge until I heated it.
Theoretically. I have never had much luck with heat/cold.
I was just waiting for him to say “Endless. Money Pits.” Throughout the video 😂
I can remember my Dad being so annoyed when I came home after riding around with a loose crank and the surfaces were distorted!
Remove those pedals immediately those metal ones eat ankles I got an infection in my shin from a sharp metal pedle stabbing me
Still hearting on a 2 year old video nice
Yup... just buy the tool... are they universal? I have an 88 schwinn tempo with shimano 105 everything...
Mostly universal. Shimano would use a standard puller.
The standards/ tools have converged in the 80s/90s and are on the way of diverging again. For square taper and alike there is still a lot of use for the tools and also (cheaper) modern bikes will continue to feature them.
Not universal ,...early Stronglight and T.A. cranksets ( made in France ) require a removal tool with a specific thread pitch !
I have done pretty much every method described in the video. If you don't have the crank puller or treads are stripped on the crank, I find the best method for a LEFT crank is using the "pickle fork" auto ball joint remover. Never use the "pickle fork" tool to remove the right crank because you WILL bend the chainrings. If you don't have the "pickle fork" tool then hammer out both sides using a metal bar as shown at 8:30. Good video! ... Save yourself the suffering and buy the tool already ...
I used the crank puller but it damage my crank thread.. I think I will try your knock-knock metode 😌
ua-cam.com/video/j5gmAkMLX60/v-deo.html
So helpful. Thank you again for your tremendous videos.
My advice.. Simply add copper grease to crank arms before fitting. Its that easy.
Very smart man. He knows what he is talking about!! This particular video is kinda long, but…. But, but, but if you know nothing about bikes (like myself) this video is extremely educational!! Thanks so much for posting “R J the bike guy!!” Appreciate your videos brother😀🤓
Thank you so much!!! What I didn't know I didn't know, now I know. Don't have a crank puller but was able to knock of my crank arm cleanly, flat-head and hammer along the 4 points. I.g. Airforce_Voyager.
Should have just bought the tool.
I hammered my crank off about 3 months ago because the threads were striped and needed to replace them anyway but my puller would screw it bite the spindle then just pull the threads out no matter how tight I held a whench on the part what threads in to the crank arm then inspected my spindle after it was fine so happy days and I had some spare cranks which worked great and better than the ones I had on because they had shark teeth from over use but the new ones don't make it skip after changing all the drive train the cranks was the last thing to do so I have new sprockets for a few years and atleast I know next time it will pull out with a puller
ua-cam.com/video/j5gmAkMLX60/v-deo.html
Already watched that vid it's great I think the old owners never looked after it as great because when i brought a brand new bike which I have had for years it's working great no problems not really nothing bad has happened just cables and whell bearings which are easy to replace get changed but when I work on my new bikes I do everything 100% the real way no mistakes it might take a little longer but worth the time
4:26 wow. So my Bike shop was Closed Sunday and of course I was impatient so I decided to hit Autozone and get one of these pullers. I have been losing my mind trying to make it work, I never would have thought to add the nut back in there. My “puller” also doesn’t have a big fat diamond end like yours. Do you have any more advice using this method? Thanks in advance.
if you have used one of the methods that damages the interface, low strength threadlock can be used to fill the gaps so it seats firmly, and makes no difference when you next go to remove the crank with the tool.
Buying from China now is like buying a VW in 1940. Thanks for the vid, really helpful.
All the methods mentioned here will work vastly better if some heat is applied to the crank arms near the spindle. Even boiling water from the kettle works a treat. Can’t believe this was not mentioned. Very basic trick.
At last a sensible advice for those times when you need to carry out the one job and buying a specific tools is just not worth it. Thanks a lot!!!
Good video
Thanks, I broke my removal- tool (bent the thread rod and stripped out the thread on the pedal arm bit) and went to brute force, not saving nothing since it's in total seizure. Good stuff.
Yeah I thought to research before hammering it out 🤣
If the crank is properly seized on the axle you can not use a thin bladed plastic handled screw driver. Use a chisel, the right tool.
wish I saw this video before spending $50 on a extractor specifically for vintage campy (late 80s). I have several crank extracting tools which fit my vintage shimano dura ace cranks - but campy being campy - none of them would fit my c-record cranks. So I had to fish around online and look for one.
I still recommend using the proper tool! Not sure why the Campy cranks would need a special crank puller. But then Campy does weird expensive stuff, because...Campy.
You can borrow the puller from AutoZone or O'Reilley's or other auto shops and return then when you're done
Learning how to clean my bike feels a lot like learning to be a bike repairman. Anyway these video are very helpful. Thanks. I like how you make everything visible and don't add music or unnecessary production BS like you're a cable tv host, which is popular now for some reason.
If you're just trying to get the arm off for say a pedal assist for certain sensors take off the outer bolt, make sure there's no plastic orings or retaining caps in the spindle and use a butane torch to the bottom of the arm and spindle and use pressure on the arm like pushing with a screwdriver or tapping at the base of the arm and for me it popped right off. I've had to do it twice on different bikes. And no hitting hard enough to do damage. It mostly just popped off with pushing lightly at the base when it got warm enough.
Go to 6:30 for the actual removal
Yeah I tried a lot of these techniques they are the worst, buy a stand and and a crank puller it will make the job easier.
What if you get the crank tool in there and the crank arm won't budge at all (home spin bike not an outdoor bike)..
ua-cam.com/video/j5gmAkMLX60/v-deo.html
Stripped crank threads from using the proper tool. Now what. I have used the gear pullers, but they just took chunks out of the crank arm, used sprays to penetrate and lube any corrosion, but don't work. I finally bought a sawzall and cut the crank in places I think the pressure would be relieved, didn't work either. I parted out the bike and threw it away after pounding on it and no longer trusted the frame. Been pulling taper cranks for 40 years now, only in the last few years since the pandemic, I am now stripping 3 out 4 cranks. 40 years and only one crank arm stripped, now just about all of them. I refuse to hammer on crank, would rather cut it off than damage the threads of the bottom bracket shell or frame. Using all Shimano or Suntour cranksets, Suntour Alivio, Tourney, Acera, all seem to have too soft of aluminum to pull a tight crank. All these cranks I have used for 20 years, none have broken under the stress of riding, and I ride a bike hard. No name cranks I have broken in half climbing and stopped using them. I guess I should be cutting the bottom bracket spindle from now on.
Was wondering if any of this advice changes if I just need to replace the LEFT crank arm only? Left arms threads stripped where the pedal attaches and I purchased a replacement arm and can’t get the original arm off, any advice would be much appreciated :)
I don't have a vice like you show at 8:00, so instead I drilled a 3/8" hole in a piece of 2x4, put a long 3/8" bolt through the hole, and bolted it onto the 2x4. This worked well as a support for the bottom bracket spindle and enabled me to pound off the drive-side crank. Victory at last, I've been wrestling with this crank for weeks!
Great idea! I actually have an anvil with what I believe is a 3/8" square hole that I could use this solution on to secure the bolt that will protect the BB spindle.
Btw, ever since you removed the crank this way, has the bottom bracket worked properly, i.e. smooth, no roughness or resistance or weird noises, etc.?
@@kovie9162 I also replaced the bottom bracket during the same overhaul, so I can't answer that. It appears fine, and feels like it turns smoothly but I haven't tried it under load.
what if i just want to remove the crank arm adjasent to the sproket but I still want to the rest of the crank because I want to rig a powerdrill to that bolt but that crank arm is in my way.
I have never tried it, but I wonder if using canned air (sprayed upside down) to shrink the OD of the square taper would allow the crank arms to slide off with ease (or with some light prying). A similar technique has been used to work with interference connections like press-fit bearings.
I doubt it
Can you make a video showing how to remove the right crank arm?
ua-cam.com/video/ZDK6knIPhQg/v-deo.html