Thx for posting this up. I am currently going through this on my 2008 E60 528. Just replaced the battery with no luck. I got a overcurrent code. Just ordered a voltage regulator. If that doesn’t work I will go in the shop for the alternator. Wish me luck.
Emacdaqt voltage regulator. Ended up getting a new battery since it was 7 years old. Still same issue. Then bought a voltage regulator and replaced it myself. No issues for 1 month so far.
Hope it worked out for you... seriously frustrating when you stop to think of all the great engineering that goes into BMWs and a slight fluctuation in power can literally place you in harms way... Ended up selling it after oil leaks kept returning and the cooling system got entirely replaced part by part... So fun to drive, but lots of headaches. Cheers
Just went through this both two days ago and tonight. Initially replaced battery and then it reoccurred this evening. Alternator replace next. Thank for the vid. Helped greatly to confirm my suspicions.
@@brysonfleck4469 I bought a voltage regulator and my stepdad broke one of the bronze rods And we still installed it to try it and it didn’t work so I wouldn’t know for sure if it was the regulator or not but I ended up buying a new alternator
@@Gu3ssWhoki113dU1 good to know thank you I bought one a bit ago and just started experiencing these same problems so imma have my battery tested then throw in that regulator I got to see if it makes any difference and then I’ll probably end up pulling the trigger on an alternator if it keeps happening
@@brysonfleck4469 yea they’re pricey but it’ll get the car running like new again. I recently just seen my car started leaking coolant underneath any ideas?
I have a 2007 BMW 328xi, and I lost my key recently. Had to call a lock smith. He pulled out the module underneath the steering wheel ( Prior to disconnecting the battery ) to program the new key... My car went into the EXACT wacky mode the next day! FOR ME All that was needed was to scan & reprogram the codes! Hopefully this helps.. Nice Video BTW
Hey, Just read. Thanks for the comments, hopefully they will help someone. With a sensitive system like BMW's, I am guessing that there are probably a bunch of ways to end up with the same issue we had. 6 months after this issue, I ended up selling my 335 when I literally replaced the ENTIRE engine cooling system part by part over the course of a few weeks and finding myself on the side of the highway multiple times. They have a known cooling problem, but somehow it just got worse.in mine... Miss that car though...
@@natureboy4815 when you do the cooling systems you have to burp it/let all the air bubbles out, it doesn’t seem that important but I replaced the cooling system on my old 325 and it wouldn’t stop over heating until I did so, a year later and still no problems
I fixed it. It was in fact my alternator needing to be replaced. Instead of getting a new one though I took it to an alternator repair shop and they essentially rebuilt it for 1/3 of the price of a new one
Same thing happend to me 2 on 325i 30mins ago my car overheated because my fans didn’t turn on due to lose of voltage power, also my signal lights didn’t work eventually I drove 53miles and came to a dead stop, tomarrow Ill be replacing my alternator!! I’m 99.9% Sure It’s My Alternator, my bmw battery holds power but isn’t getting recharged!
Wow..745li just ran hot....all lights on dash navigation and radio went off...throwing code p1891...is it the alternator or voltage regulator..or battery...?
Mine did similar problems. Changed and registered battery that was 8 years old. Did not fix electrical demons. Ordered a $50 voltage regulator and put it in easily in 30 minutes. That was a fix!! Alternator change isn’t quick or easy on these cars. Buy the VR before the alternator if you are doing the work yourself.
Maybe you could post a quick video, even a post-completion video, to show what you did... some people are spending tons of money semi-guessing at it like the mechanic who helped me was doing... either way, thanks for the comments, may help someone.
@@natureboy4815 Here is a link to the voltage regulator change on e90 335. Mine was voltage was running low and not running high like most peoples do. Point is that if you are +100k miles, you should change it. Very easy by this video. The 335i alternator is quite involved and for me it was worth ‘trying’ this first if you are having instrument panel demons and looking for easy possible fix... Hope this post helps someone as that is why I replied with this effort. ua-cam.com/video/v9QoLSBjxao/v-deo.html
@@natureboy4815 - My old voltage regulator and the new one. There is no way to diagnose if the unit is going or bad. I think my brushes (though worn down with 130k miles) it may have actually been the internals were bad or dying on my old voltage regulator... Either way it was a fix with my new voltage regulator that now runs between 15.4 volts and 14.2 volts depending on demand 👍
@@pewpew90 - Yes. BUT, the voltage regulator was the fix not the new $300 battery, which probably needed replaced since it was 8 years old at the time all this was festering.
Hy please help me I'm have cc I'd 207 code on my 335i, it lock the truck and cluster rev drop and fun blow and can't open doors only drive door open and can't scan the car until you disconnect the battery and no code find
this problem can happen because of intermittent fault of one of the modules on the k-can network, if any of the modules from can network is failing you will get this central electronics failure
@@natureboy4815 I was experience all the electrical symptoms and my wipers were going off on its own. Couldn’t use my turn signal but I never lost power. Was still able to accelerate 35+ for about 15 min til I got to my destination
Similar problem here. Alternator replaced two times (Bosch ) I replaced IBS replaced the footwell module Nothing works. Car sometimes die just after I drive it.
Battery??... Also, after changing, you have to use BMW special software interface tool for computer calibration. Or, time to sell maybe? I had to get rid of mine after a bunch of cooling system breakdowns... miss it, but happy to be free of the ridiculousness of German reliability and repair costs. Shit, was that a rant, sorry. Good luck!
@@fastlaneluciano7911 problem solved... real issues was junction box replacement. Symptoms I had alse were radio rebooted some times, card die after I turned it off and after few hrs car started normal.
hey guys mine i can driver it to a point where it reaches operation temperature and cluster rev counter is not working and limp mode, and warning lights nothing works until i open the bots and remove the terminal on the battery, my battery is new
my e90 2008 have a problem ((( In hot weather, when I drive on the road, these 3 sensors suddenly light up, then turn off, after 2 minutes, they light up again, if I don't stop the car and turn off the engine, the steering wheel hardens, then the battery lights up and turns off the car by itself. When I want to turn it on, the car does not start, as if the battery is dead. I remove the minus cable and connect it back again, then I start the car with the battery charger, I changed the battery but after 2 days the same problem happened to me. What could be the fault?
I got 2010 bmw 328ix same problem . I changed the battery . Very weird noise is coming from the alternator and the car kind it that accelerated by it self for like 1 second and goes back to normal . You think is the alternator?
Was it the alternator? I have 08 328i that will stall or misfire and spike ( like you described ) and sometimes ( not always) throw various codes but nothing to do with the battery. Please help!
Not sure. I had a manual (since sold) and it just lost all power, yet stayed turned on (I think, been awhile... see vid). Anyway, I see that I am late to reply, so maybe you have it figured out by now and could add a comment that might help others with a similar experience?? If not, I would personally start with a look at the battery and alternator. Cheers
Hey 👋 I have some issue with my gearbox at 325 e90 I have gearbox failure and in the compiuter I get on car scan alternator missing and low voltage maybi it's affect on my transmittion?
When the run, they drive so well... I think that Land Rover might have them beat for worst car though. I won't say that I won't have another one (sold it), but I am trying to avoid german cars at all cost now too.
I have a issue on my 2009 750i. Just happened over night I started my car and all the warnings stayed on but I noticed before I started it up that the brake light was already lit up ... I'm getting notifications that says .....Driving Comfort restricted.. Passenger restraint system...Steering ... press brake to engage gear.. and Brake system to drive moderately. Steering wheel is tight hard to turn and says limited power . Plz help.
Sorry to hear that. I am sure by now that they sorted it all out. I am pretty sure that my battery was actually fine and it was the alternator all along. Unfortunately, my mechanic started with replacing the battery, then hit me up for the underperforming alternator.... never went back there after that. Good luck!
@@azmisaid9876 Hey, Sorry for the very late reply... I am no expert and simply got an education from having gone through it. So, as a non-expert, I can only relay what I was told. My understanding is that the car is extremely sensitive to voltage changes, so it is critical to use a BMW battery (preferably), or one that you are absolutely sure is OEM and acceptable. The other strange requirement I found was the need to have the electronic tool that must be used to interface with the computer to, essentially, inform/calibrate it to the fact that a new battery is present, etc... Hope you were able to figure it out without digging too deep into your wallet. Cheers.
@@azmisaid9876 there is a recall from bmw to all 3 series from 2007 to 2011 with positive battery cable issues, this can cause the problem you described, just go to your local dealer and ask for the recall, it’s free of charge
Bummer! Get the battery tested then... The OEM battery is something like $450 if you need one. I got one through a AAA Service Center for about $250 that was compatible, although not BMW branded. As I recall, the installation of a new battery requires that you have the software tool to "inform" and program the car on the change (It has to do with amperage and voltage, so that the cars all to sensitive computer and electronic system can manage the update correctly). Not sure, you might also have needed to use that specialized tool with the alternator change, and maybe that is part of the issue. Good luck!
Thx for posting this up. I am currently going through this on my 2008 E60 528. Just replaced the battery with no luck. I got a overcurrent code. Just ordered a voltage regulator. If that doesn’t work I will go in the shop for the alternator. Wish me luck.
What was it?
Emacdaqt voltage regulator.
Ended up getting a new battery since it was 7 years old. Still same issue. Then bought a voltage regulator and replaced it myself. No issues for 1 month so far.
@@DaKine96791 any problems lately
What was ir
Thank you for this video it saved me thousand of dollars of diagnosis fees at the dealership
This just happened to me today samething..I’m going to change my alternator soon! Thanks for the video
Hope it worked out for you... seriously frustrating when you stop to think of all the great engineering that goes into BMWs and a slight fluctuation in power can literally place you in harms way... Ended up selling it after oil leaks kept returning and the cooling system got entirely replaced part by part... So fun to drive, but lots of headaches. Cheers
I just changed the alternator it fixed the problem thanks!
Just went through this both two days ago and tonight. Initially replaced battery and then it reoccurred this evening. Alternator replace next. Thank for the vid. Helped greatly to confirm my suspicions.
This is where I’m at right now too
I’m super late but check your voltage regulator too! Only like 55 bucks on fcp euro could save you a lot on money on an alternator.
@@brysonfleck4469 I bought a voltage regulator and my stepdad broke one of the bronze rods And we still installed it to try it and it didn’t work so I wouldn’t know for sure if it was the regulator or not but I ended up buying a new alternator
@@Gu3ssWhoki113dU1 good to know thank you I bought one a bit ago and just started experiencing these same problems so imma have my battery tested then throw in that regulator I got to see if it makes any difference and then I’ll probably end up pulling the trigger on an alternator if it keeps happening
@@brysonfleck4469 yea they’re pricey but it’ll get the car running like new again. I recently just seen my car started leaking coolant underneath any ideas?
I have a 2007 BMW 328xi, and I lost my key recently. Had to call a lock smith. He pulled out the module underneath the steering wheel ( Prior to disconnecting the battery ) to program the new key... My car went into the EXACT wacky mode the next day! FOR ME All that was needed was to scan & reprogram the codes! Hopefully this helps.. Nice Video BTW
Hey, Just read. Thanks for the comments, hopefully they will help someone. With a sensitive system like BMW's, I am guessing that there are probably a bunch of ways to end up with the same issue we had. 6 months after this issue, I ended up selling my 335 when I literally replaced the ENTIRE engine cooling system part by part over the course of a few weeks and finding myself on the side of the highway multiple times. They have a known cooling problem, but somehow it just got worse.in mine... Miss that car though...
@@natureboy4815 when you do the cooling systems you have to burp it/let all the air bubbles out, it doesn’t seem that important but I replaced the cooling system on my old 325 and it wouldn’t stop over heating until I did so, a year later and still no problems
Lol this same bullshit happened to me. Windows wipers topped it off
How did you fix it?
I fixed it. It was in fact my alternator needing to be replaced. Instead of getting a new one though I took it to an alternator repair shop and they essentially rebuilt it for 1/3 of the price of a new one
😅 pissed me clean tf off
Also check the fuse box thing that goes on top off ur car battery there’s fuses built in and when it goes out it also has these symptoms
Thank you
This video helped me solve my problem!
Alternator!
WOW!!!! Thanks so much for the video very very helpful. what a nightmare scinario.
Yeah hi boucher... Samething happened to me few days ago... Been a headache till now... Leakdown test first thing I be doing in morning ......
Same thing happend to me 2 on 325i 30mins ago my car overheated because my fans didn’t turn on due to lose of voltage power, also my signal lights didn’t work eventually I drove 53miles and came to a dead stop, tomarrow Ill be replacing my alternator!! I’m 99.9% Sure It’s My Alternator, my bmw battery holds power but isn’t getting recharged!
Did it work ?
Wow..745li just ran hot....all lights on dash navigation and radio went off...throwing code p1891...is it the alternator or voltage regulator..or battery...?
Mine did similar problems. Changed and registered battery that was 8 years old. Did not fix electrical demons. Ordered a $50 voltage regulator and put it in easily in 30 minutes. That was a fix!! Alternator change isn’t quick or easy on these cars. Buy the VR before the alternator if you are doing the work yourself.
Maybe you could post a quick video, even a post-completion video, to show what you did... some people are spending tons of money semi-guessing at it like the mechanic who helped me was doing... either way, thanks for the comments, may help someone.
@@natureboy4815 Here is a link to the voltage regulator change on e90 335. Mine was voltage was running low and not running high like most peoples do. Point is that if you are +100k miles, you should change it. Very easy by this video. The 335i alternator is quite involved and for me it was worth ‘trying’ this first if you are having instrument panel demons and looking for easy possible fix... Hope this post helps someone as that is why I replied with this effort. ua-cam.com/video/v9QoLSBjxao/v-deo.html
@@natureboy4815 - My old voltage regulator and the new one. There is no way to diagnose if the unit is going or bad. I think my brushes (though worn down with 130k miles) it may have actually been the internals were bad or dying on my old voltage regulator... Either way it was a fix with my new voltage regulator that now runs between 15.4 volts and 14.2 volts depending on demand 👍
Before changing the regulator did your battery keep draining ?
@@pewpew90 - Yes. BUT, the voltage regulator was the fix not the new $300 battery, which probably needed replaced since it was 8 years old at the time all this was festering.
Hy please help me I'm have cc I'd 207 code on my 335i, it lock the truck and cluster rev drop and fun blow and can't open doors only drive door open and can't scan the car until you disconnect the battery and no code find
this problem can happen because of intermittent fault of one of the modules on the k-can network, if any of the modules from can network is failing you will get this central electronics failure
Was the issue the voltage regulator ???
Not mine, but the reply below indicates that it probably was...
@@natureboy4815 what was yours ?
@@natureboy4815 I was experience all the electrical symptoms and my wipers were going off on its own. Couldn’t use my turn signal but I never lost power. Was still able to accelerate 35+ for about 15 min til I got to my destination
@@pewpew90I think he said alternator on another comment. But others say just the VR
Similar problem here.
Alternator replaced two times (Bosch )
I replaced IBS
replaced the footwell module
Nothing works.
Car sometimes die just after I drive it.
Battery??... Also, after changing, you have to use BMW special software interface tool for computer calibration. Or, time to sell maybe? I had to get rid of mine after a bunch of cooling system breakdowns... miss it, but happy to be free of the ridiculousness of German reliability and repair costs. Shit, was that a rant, sorry. Good luck!
I’m having the same problem
@@fastlaneluciano7911 problem solved... real issues was junction box replacement.
Symptoms I had alse were radio rebooted some times, card die after I turned it off and after few hrs car started normal.
@@S3RG1020 so you replace the junction box after the two alternators ?
I’m on my second alternator now the first one lasted a week
good stuff i have the same problem right now
Voltage regulator G on the back of alternator
hey guys mine i can driver it to a point where it reaches operation temperature and cluster rev counter is not working and limp mode, and warning lights nothing works until i open the bots and remove the terminal on the battery, my battery is new
Same problem here, new Voltage regulater,
my e90 2008 have a problem ((( In hot weather, when I drive on the road, these 3 sensors suddenly light up, then turn off, after 2 minutes, they light up again, if I don't stop the car and turn off the engine, the steering wheel hardens, then the battery lights up and turns off the car by itself. When I want to turn it on, the car does not start, as if the battery is dead. I remove the minus cable and connect it back again, then I start the car with the battery charger, I changed the battery but after 2 days the same problem happened to me. What could be the fault?
Did you register the new battery with a scanner? (I just ordered one on Amazon)
And some are saying it could be the Voltage Regulator.
get bmw ista d diagnostics connect it to your car and check which module is not green
Guys I have the same problem on mine.Bmw x5 e70 si 3.0 .2008.. tell me what.voltage regulator need to bet thank you so much for earlier :)
Easy fix check all main power wires and check the ground wires had this issue my starter wire was loose after i replaced it
I got 2010 bmw 328ix same problem . I changed the battery . Very weird noise is coming from the alternator and the car kind it that accelerated by it self for like 1 second and goes back to normal . You think is the alternator?
Was it the alternator? I have 08 328i that will stall or misfire and spike ( like you described ) and sometimes ( not always) throw various codes but nothing to do with the battery. Please help!
@@chrishatton4098did u fix it
Happening to my e46 with the same lights but they flicker as well. My charging voltage reads ab 18 volts lol.
BMW electronic issues... yeah, they pretty much stink! Good luck.
@@natureboy4815 new alternator fixed it
@@natureboy4815 it was the voltage regulator but my alternator had a warranty so I replaced the whole thing
I get a transmission malfunction and car turns off after getting all those lights. Would it still be the alternator ??
could be many things..start at battery then check alternator then kcan modules for corrosion
Not sure. I had a manual (since sold) and it just lost all power, yet stayed turned on (I think, been awhile... see vid). Anyway, I see that I am late to reply, so maybe you have it figured out by now and could add a comment that might help others with a similar experience?? If not, I would personally start with a look at the battery and alternator. Cheers
You find out the problem?
@@KDOT619 it was the alternator. everything got fixed once I changed the alternator
Hey 👋 I have some issue with my gearbox at 325 e90 I have gearbox failure and in the compiuter I get on car scan alternator missing and low voltage maybi it's affect on my transmittion?
Bmw is the worst car ever used... i drove almost all cars never suffer from a car like bmw
When the run, they drive so well... I think that Land Rover might have them beat for worst car though. I won't say that I won't have another one (sold it), but I am trying to avoid german cars at all cost now too.
Shop told me no way Ibs or battery won’t make e90 overheat man if I dont screw that ibs down at the right angle my e90 will overheat I shit you not
I have a issue on my 2009 750i. Just happened over night I started my car and all the warnings stayed on but I noticed before I started it up that the brake light was already lit up ... I'm getting notifications that says .....Driving Comfort restricted.. Passenger restraint system...Steering ... press brake to engage gear.. and Brake system to drive moderately. Steering wheel is tight hard to turn and says limited power . Plz help.
Bro
Exact same thing with my car ugh
It was working perfectly fine did you ever get it fixed
Check the abs module
Alternator #1
For some it's just the battery for other just the Voltage Regulator.
I just had the same problem with My BMW X6 50i. They still cannot figure out the problem.
Sorry to hear that. I am sure by now that they sorted it all out. I am pretty sure that my battery was actually fine and it was the alternator all along. Unfortunately, my mechanic started with replacing the battery, then hit me up for the underperforming alternator.... never went back there after that. Good luck!
NatureBoy same thing happened with me , I have changed the alternator and the battery both and I still have the same problem... any recommendations?
Try replacing the ground strap.Maybe it’s not getting a good connection since they are prone to getting rotten and brittle.
@@azmisaid9876 Hey, Sorry for the very late reply... I am no expert and simply got an education from having gone through it. So, as a non-expert, I can only relay what I was told. My understanding is that the car is extremely sensitive to voltage changes, so it is critical to use a BMW battery (preferably), or one that you are absolutely sure is OEM and acceptable. The other strange requirement I found was the need to have the electronic tool that must be used to interface with the computer to, essentially, inform/calibrate it to the fact that a new battery is present, etc... Hope you were able to figure it out without digging too deep into your wallet. Cheers.
@@azmisaid9876 there is a recall from bmw to all 3 series from 2007 to 2011 with positive battery cable issues, this can cause the problem you described, just go to your local dealer and ask for the recall, it’s free of charge
Changed my alternator it worked then all of sudden it’s happening again
Bummer! Get the battery tested then... The OEM battery is something like $450 if you need one. I got one through a AAA Service Center for about $250 that was compatible, although not BMW branded. As I recall, the installation of a new battery requires that you have the software tool to "inform" and program the car on the change (It has to do with amperage and voltage, so that the cars all to sensitive computer and electronic system can manage the update correctly). Not sure, you might also have needed to use that specialized tool with the alternator change, and maybe that is part of the issue. Good luck!
Scan your car! It may be your modules !
Junction box!!