I am so glad found your channel. I have a 73 Super Beetle which I have had for 44 years. Just couple days ago I pulled her out from my back garage after 25 years. I have already learned few tricks from your last couple videos. Thanks.
Siamak E Welcome aboard, and thank you so much for being here. I try to put up as much as I possibly can, there will be much more to come. Congratulations on having your beetle that long. That is awesome! It’s nice to know some folks have kept them for a very long time.
I was going to do an updated version soon. Because I know some folks don’t scroll back to the old videos. I am truly happy that helped out! I try to have people share that video around wherever they can’t because it helps a lot of people. I hope you have a beautiful day.
When I had my 1973 VW Beetle, it had some aftermarket carburetor, which didn*t work to good, and as I am was driving it, the car was staying accelerated, I found a place where to stop to disconnect what would keep it idling very hard, and found a Solex -34 carburetor, problem resolved,👍👍👍👍👍👌👌👌👌and this was with the stock engine.
Enjoy all of your tips & tricks, you are the” MAN “. I rolled my 71 Super beetle convertible out of 25 years of storage and started the project. Everyday when I have a problem i watch one of your very informative videos and learn. Your camera angle is perfect for us to see what you are doing. Thank you again.
They are the best carbs by far, I made some butterfly bushing in previous job and yeah these bushes were out but usually last 30 years . Good tips especially with the wire on the hose clip !!
Absolutely helpful video. Extremely complete for what I needed too. My car has been running really high RPM and it was literally just the adjustments needed. Thanks.
Thanks for posting this, very helpful, will be coming back again. I have been thinking of the fuel pressure regulator for my carb. Also, thank you for the tip about the jets. Thumbs up to HF for helping in this time of need.
Thanks for being here!! Trying to create an index on my channel for all to use. I’ll be doing my 68 soon, so a lot more to come. A regulator is a big help!
Thanks for the tip on checking for the potential fuel leak at the fuel inlet to the carb bowl... I'll be sure to check mine when I pull it out of storage in the spring before firing up.
The barbs on the brass fuel inlet only help to prevent the hose from coming off. The whole brass connector will still separate from the metal body of the carburetor after years of hot/cold cycles. Yes lock wire will work but you can replace the original brass fitting which is a press fit with the threaded brass fitting. You do need to tap a thread into the body of the carburetor but it’s an easy modification and a gold standard solution to prevent a catastrophic engine bay fire. Great video
Sometimes they can be a little finicky. Just make sure that you don’t have a vacuum leak at the throttle shaft. Sometimes the worn out ones can act silly. Thank you so much for being here I truly appreciate that.
I bought a 80 Honda Goldwing with a Solex 34 pic 3 that replaces the 4 stock carbs. The sucker revs like a beast but it won't idle. I think you solved my issues. The adjustment screw that rest and rides against the choke flap step down thingy is completely opposite of what you are showing. Cold it rest on the top of the choke thingy instead of the bottom. So to correct this I guess I have to warm up the engine and start with the choke thermostat and readjust the setting screw to nearly touch the bottom step? Sorry if I'm not making sense with my terminology.
If it won’t idle, make sure the throttle shaft does not have a vacuum leak. I would check that first. And you want the screw that is on the throttle arm, barely touching the lowest step on the bottom lowest adjustment.
I have mine on a dune buggy as well I got the screws adjusted pretty close to about 800rpm. But when left alone idling it’ll bog down to where it’s about to die then idle back up to about 2000 rpm for a couple seconds and then back down. What do I need to adjust to get it running smooth.
Thanks for commenting, and joining the community here. OK if it’s bogging down that would sound like you have a vacuum leak? Have you definitely checked everywhere there could be a vacuum leak at?
At 2:04 you show a diagram. At lower right, above the spring I have 3 brackets on my carb for tubes? Idk. What are these brackes for and should they be capped? One bracket have lot of air flow/vacuum.
To the engine stand I have the harbor freight stand and built a 2387 on it. They work good. Only problem is you might have to install the fly wheel when it is on the ground.
Great video! Since I live in AZ, the temps like a lot of places vary to extremes. In tuning a 34-PICT3 carb, what range of sizes for the main jet and idle jet would you recommend getting, and any tips on how & when to step them up or down together? Thanks!
Thanks for your informative channel, you have earned a new subscriber. I came across your channel while searching for a solution to a problem. 8 months ago I picked up a ‘72 Ghia: I rebuilt the engine (it had low compression in 3&4, and bits of metal in the sump) but kept it stock. I cleaned the carburetor as you demonstrated in your other video. The carburetor is a relatively new IAP brand - looks like the Solex 34 PIC-3 in the video. The idle jet is a 55, and the main jet is a 127. I followed your instructions in both videos to the letter, and although the car starts when cold, it starts to falter as it warms up. My problem is I am unable to get the engine to idle above 600rpm no matter how far out I turn the idle (large) screw or however I adjust the fuel mixture (small) screw and I have to keep goosing the throttle to keep the engine running. I’ve checked the valve clearance, replaced and gaped the points, replaced the rotor, rotor cap, wires and plugs (they needed replacement), the distributor is original and in good shape. I timed the engine as you demonstrated in your other video. Unfortunately the fuel pump puts out 7psi but it’s probably not starving for fuel. Just to restate, my problem is I can’t get the engine to idle above 600rpm. Do you have any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Great videos! Very informative, well thought out and educational! You are very courteous to your viewers and take great care to ensure that we can see most things very well! You are doing a great job of your filming! don't worry about it so much Buddy, your doing Great! I eagerly wait for every video. I went to help support what you are doing by buying some merch, but there was nothing at all to buy! Are the shelves bare?
Thank you very much for the kind words, I truly appreciate it. I like knowing that the videos help others, it gives me a good feeling and makes me to film more. We’re redoing the apparel and stickers! I appreciate you asking. I’ll make an announcement as soon as we’re done! Thank you for the support!
@@SladesVWBeetle No problem friend. You truly are helping at least one old Vdubber out there, ME! So, Thank You! Please keep all the different "stuff" coming. its not all just about tune ups and engine building (though i LOVE that content too) but, as you know, Dubs have so very many little idiosyncrasies that everyone should know. Its so much fun for me to watch you share a lot of those things too! Hang in there brother! keep the vids commin' and I'll be waiting!
Well thank you very much, and I do appreciate you taking out the time to comment. I always hope these videos help someone out a little bit. I do enjoy doing them.
Wow, finally I realized where I have a vacuum leak thanks to you. It’s the throttle shaft bushing. I have also noticed that on the left side of the throttle shaft it gets wet. Also, when I have the motor running and I’m revving the engine from the engine bay, if I pull down on the throttle quickly it will bog down a little bit and it would release air from the left side of the throttle shaft where it also is getting wet. Is this something that I can do, replacing those bushings or do I have to send it out to somebody? Thank you! Great video!
Thank you for taking the time to leave a nice comment, and watch the video! Volkzbitz does a great job with the bushings. He’s about the best!! You can do it yourself though. Have a great day.
When adjusting the top screw, the one you said should barely touch the butterfly valve, should you adjust it with the spring on it off??? Seems like no matter how I turn the screw it’s always touching... can’t seem to get it to barely touch. Thanks!
Safety wiring the fuel line and fitting in is a great idea. Are the stock carbs really flowing enough air and fuel for optimum power? Would a 2 barrel carb be a better option?
Honestly the stock carburetors do a really nice job, and you can work with the jetting if need be. They’re very simple to work on. Now if you’re running a high-performance engine, I always run dual carburetors. Anyone that has ran the two barrel carburetor’s that I know of, speaking of the progressive carburetor that is, has had a lot of issues with them.
@@SladesVWBeetle Thanks. I was just curious because of earlier experience I had withe the old Dodge slant 6. It was really a change to go to a 2 bbl on that versus the single they came with. Really asthmatic performance with the single in that one.
@@oldtanker4860 It's widely reported that dual barrel is better in an ideal World , however it needs the ideal manifold, the ideal amount of vacuum, the ideal fuel pressure and flow rate and after you get that sorted you really need to make the final tuning on a rolling road and that will cost a couple of hundred dollars. Then you might need to have that adjusted or checked every year depending on your mileage.
I love the videos. I have just ordered myself a reconditioned engine for my bus as the engine was shot. I’ve bought a 34 pict 3 carb to rebuild to go on the new engine. Here in the uk, we’ve just started using E10, 10% ethanol unleaded fuel. What would you recommend I do to make this run correctly? Same jets as you mentioned in the video.. many thanks in advance
Hi John! That’s sad they switched to the 10% there. Wished they would go away with it here. They never will though. You’ll have to jet and check your plugs. I start with a 127.5 main. Sometimes a 130. The idle jet I usually see the 60 works well instead of the 55! This 10% Makes then run lean and hot. So running a bit rich helps out!
@@SladesVWBeetle , thank you for the information. I’ll definitely go with them jets. I want this to run perfectly as it can. It was 5% here for a year or 2, now gone to 10. It’s here to stay and everyone here hates it. Thanks again😊
Thanks you for sharing so many tips ! May I ask you something, our T2AB has no power when switching 1 to second gear. The carb is the same of yours. Could you please tell a way to fix that issue ? Many Thanks in advance from France
Thanks for this video. I've got a 1600 problem child and your video explains a lot of my issues. I have a question about vacuum sources. Where do you run the hose from the vacuum advance to the carburetor? Is it the one over the mixture screw or is it the one in the rear of the carb?
Thanks for being part of the group Randall, and thanks for taking the time to comment. That would be the vacuum port above the mixture screw on the driver side of the car. I hope that helps.
@@SladesVWBeetle Thanks. I wasn't sure which one was the proper one for the distributor. I had an 009 and after viewing this video as well as a couple of others I went to the vacuum model.
@@SladesVWBeetle Evidently I have a defective distributor. I can't figure it out. The points are adjusted correctly and even when it's properly timed it sits there and backfires and won't run on all four but as soon as I drop the 009 in it has a flat spot but at least it runs.
Great Videos! What do you do if you lose one of the 4 screws and spacers to the automatic choke collar? Anything you can use to replace these? They don't come in the small kit.
Honestly, if you have a local Ace Hardware, or something similar, you could probably match something up fairly easily. Just don’t forget to take one of the screws and spacers with you.
great one - Hi - Sathi from Malaysia - remember you were saying about the thermostat spring arm - mine likely popped out as the thing is very flaccid and does not activate the choke - any guide on refitting that arm? Thanks
Good video, i appreciate that you pay attention to detail on your Channel👍 I have a 66 bus with a solex 30 pitc2 carburetor and I noticed fuel leaking from the side maybe where you were talking about the bushings were located. can that happen?
Awesome video, so helpful. I have a Solex Pict 3 and fuel is gushing out of that throttle shaft exactly where you say to spray carb cleaner. So I assume I need new bushings? Is that a diy project? Excited to watch your rebuild video!
Slade, good info. Two things... good tip on the idle screw just touching that bottom "step." Also, you say throttle shaft bushings might leak. I've had a few of these apart and there's only a "warpy" washer on each end. Is that what you are talking about? Thanks.
There’s a bushing inside of there I believe, I never tried to repair one myself. But it isn’t just the washers. I probably should try to do a video on it.
Great videos!!! I do have a question: if you change the jets out for running the ethanol gas and you fill up with ethanol free gas down the road with those same jets in, what is the outcome?
Great Video, got a question every so often my 1600 with a 34pic3 wont idle and it starts to run rich ,then seems to clear and go back to normal ,could this be a dirty idle jet?
Hi there! Very good video and a nice explanation! I own a Kadett C and I 'd like to adjust it's 30/35 Solex. Is it equivalent or I should do something more? What is a good setting for both fuel mixture and air screws? One and a half for the fuel and two for the air one? And for the idle setting, should I turn the throttle screw or the small screw on the upper side? I would appreciate your advice. Thanks once again!
Thank you very much for the nice comment on the video. I have to be honest with you I am not familiar with that carburetor. So I would not know the initial settings, I’m sure there has to be something online, like a diagram. That is one that I’ve never messed with yet.
@@SladesVWBeetle It's ok, never mind, it is similar with this one on the video, which is-believe me- very very helpful! I'll do the steps on it!Have a nice day! Cheers!!
Hi there, how 're you doing? As I finished with the adjustments on my 35 PDSI, I 'd like to inform you about the steps I followed as below : after cleaning the carburettor I did the pre-settings as you said on the video, then started up and let the engine warm up. When reached operating temperature I opened the air screw (anti-clockwise) almost 4 turns out until the rpm reached the maximum possible speed (peak). At this point I turned it in, half a quarter, just to gain 10 more rpm. As for the fuel screw on the left side, I turned it out 2,5 turns and noticed that the rpm was slightly dropping. So turned it in to the point that the rpm raised to the maximum. That was on 1,8-2 turns and the sound became smoother. Finally I adjusted the idle to 920-935 rpm as it runs better that way (instead of Opel's recommendations for 870-880). All the above are just for your info. There are many Opel GT's in the US and you might be asked for-just in case. (Sorry for bothering all the time but you give the most precised informations concerning our 70's German Treasures!) Have a nice day and keep up!
I am going to use this video for setting up my solex 30/31 starting at 2 1/2 turns and going back and forth. I can't find any other info on them. Any comments
i have a question about the sonic cleaner how difficult is it to clean say for example i clean my rocker arms then my will want to clean her rings ( wedding rings)
Works great for both. Just clean the tank well before doing jewelry. But cleans up very easily. My latest video I show the rocker arms I just cleaned that were laying on my bench. I just show them quickly while doing my handbrake video. ua-cam.com/video/7aAK06DQc3A/v-deo.html
Hey there....my 1600 DP with a AH block code, 34 pic 3 carb says it has a 65 idle jet.... Not sure about my main jet yet. Is 65 too big. You were saying to get a 60 idle and 130 main.
Is that part on left of carb that you kept touching is that called a fuel shut off valve or idler do they go bad what are symptoms if bad my 73 beetle just cuts off at stop sign lately
I believe you’re talking about the fuel shut off valve. How to test it is turned your ignition to the on position and see if it clicks. That’s how you can test it. Or with a hot wire touching the end of it
Im really struggling to get my carb set right. I do 2½ turns on each it wont run. My fuel screw is out like 5 turns 2½ on the idle. Also as you spoke of when i spraybin the shaft it does bog down. Can i get passed that until i dual carb?
If it is bogging down a bit when you are spraying the throttle shaft, there’s definitely a vacuum leak. It would need taken apart and new bushings put in.
If you mean on the drivers side of the carb, with a wire going to it? That’s a Idle Shut Off Valve the valve on the side of the carburetor that provides air to the idle circuit. This valve closes when the key is off, preventing "Run on". If it doesn't open you won't idle!
They claim ours is at 10%, although I think it’s higher. Which causes us to upjet, so that we don’t run to lean. The best thing for you to do, would be to check your plugs in about 100 mile and see if you’re running to lean. And then you would up jet.
@@SladesVWBeetle thanks, that’s where I have hooked up.! I bought a new Pertronix distributor and coil, don’t want any issues down the road! I plan on using my 72 as daily driver in warm weather!
@@SladesVWBeetle I'm gonna need some advice on the pedals too, My big foot gets stuck between the gas pedal and brake! The carpet was installed hokey and it's loose and wads up by my foot.... not good!
@@bobsbarnworkshop I’m actually going to do the pedal rebuild video. With moving the clutch pedal over. Then replaced the gas pedal with a roller pedal. Total rebuilt but that’ll be the concept. Creates more room for our feet.
Hi. I'm having abit of trouble with the distributor vacuum hose and vacuum hose ports on the carburetor I'm not sure which hose goes where. I'm getting comments online and they all different ways to put the hoses. Eg. Distributor hose goes left side on carburetor, front ports on carburetor are blocked off I got 2 ports on my carburetor in front and one just under those two on the right. Does it matter how it is connected? Depends on engine, distributor, carburetor etc you using?
Hi Igor! If you have a single port distributor, the hose will go up on the driver side of the carburetor port. If you have two nipples on the distributor, one on the back of the vacuum pot, the one on the back will go to the front of the carburetor. If it has a single port distributor, the front ports on the carburetor will be capped off.
I found a way easier way to remove the engine out of a Volkswagen Beetle by cutting off the back panel after removing the side back fenders it is a quick cut a quick cut pull it off you got all that open area to pull your engine right out and then you do some simple welding some grinding and some paint and you're all good. in my eyes its the easyer way to pull out engine
what is wrong with the 31 pict-4 carburettor if the oil increases? so do they go with gas? the carburettor has been replaced with a repair kit and a raised valve, and maybe the 1.5mm washer was thicker.. there is an electric fuel pump and when you look at the throat, at least it doesn't flood when it's turned off and it doesn't stall when turning
Slades when you installed the after market transmission mount. Did you have to remove the OEM bolt by the transmission nose 👃 ? The ones that are pressed into the mount receiver where you have to faster with it the ground strap?
Slades I sent you and email with my cel number to the email you provided me for the website. You call me if you spare some time or I can call you if you send me you number in the email reply.
question: I have a solex brosol h 30/31 pict carb on a 1300 55 idle jet 122.5 or 125 main. just rebuilt it and it started up great no bog ran great. Turned the car of went in the house came back out turned the car on it loaded up bad on the start and then it will not idle now WTF? check the solenoid and it works fine. I have no idea what the problem could be. Any suggestions?
hi i have the H30/31 CARB when i pull on the throttle it does not spay fuel out of the pipe. what is the problem i have taken everything off i think and cleaned and blown everything still nothing.
Hi there I am having problem with the idle, the idle just can not stand I wondering if the idle solenoid can be a problem How can I check the idle solenoid works properly Rather then this, what else show I check? How can I check for air leakage? Many thanks in advance
To check the idle solenoid, turn the key on, to the on position, then take the wire and pull it off of the idle solenoid and put it back on. And see if you hear a click. That will tell you if it’s working. Also make sure you have power going to it. If it is working I would take some WD-40 or something similar. While the car is running spray the throttle shaft, and other areas of the intake to to see if the idle jumps up or down.
Thanks Slades! Actually there was a wire terminal was loose But I only could find by pulling the wires I have Pertroxi ignition and the wires do not sound a good quality Anyway many thanks for your help! Cheers
Help!! I had mine laid up for a year. Came out to start it and will not start. Checked the pump and it’s working but fuel is not getting into the chamber.. any ideas why please?
@@SladesVWBeetle Awesome! That's great timing... I'll see myself out haha! Got a 71 bus with a 1600 in so will await all your future videos dude! Subbed and bell rang :)
What could be the issue if my butterfly valve wont shut, ive tried a million things and it still wont close. Almost like the auto choke will not work at closing it at all, any ideas?
Thanks for being her Nathan, first remove the choke thermostat, Spring, and make sure it’s hooked up properly. How’s the three screws on it closest to the alternator.
It’s hard to diagnose, online. Do you mean it starts right up and runs fine? And sometimes then it doesn’t? Is the key just clicking and nothing happens? Sometimes?
@@SladesVWBeetle it don’t turn on no more, yesterday I put the carburetor into a carb juice that’s cleans it and today I tried putting it back on and the paper Gasket a super small piece fell inside of the intake but I talked to a couple of mechanics and all of them said it shouldn’t affect it and it should just burn off and it might get stuck to a Vowel, so i still tried to turn it on and it doesn’t start no more I shot gas down the choke and nothing it still cranks but it doesn’t start, there’s still spark but it just don’t start, can you help me on that
I have the 34 pict 5 on my bmw E12 the idle is very well maintained but damn that carb chews gas like idk....once u get moving .....1ltr only goes up to 7 kms
Hey Slade, my 72 super had a 34-p3 carb on it. The vacuum lines were all messed up when I bought it. I set the static timing to 7.5 degrees. Here’s the problem. My distributor has two vacuum lines on it and I’m not sure where they go. Right now I have the front line going to the port on the left of the carb and the retard line going to the port t manifold below the carb. Now when I check the timing with a light at idle the mark retards back to almost tdc?! So do I set the timing back to 7.5 with the lines connected? Now it idles bad!
Unless I am misunderstanding, you should only have a vac line on the drivers side of the carb, going to the distributor. The port near the mixture screws. The others should be capped off, even the one below the carb on the intake. I would cap them off, for except that one, and when setting the timing, disconnect the vac line going to the dizzy, and cap it off at the carb. Set timing, then hook it back up. I would also consider setting timing at full advance.
@@SladesVWBeetle The old distributor on my 72 has two vacuum lines. I read one was advance, the other retard... Couldn't find a diagram of how to connect them, So I bought a new Pertronix distributor and coil, shotgun method fixed it! Thanks!
Remove the cover from your choke thermostat on the other side. Where the wire goes too. There’s three screws! The spring either broke, or it’s not attached to the spindle leg.
@@SladesVWBeetle thanks so much for the reply! My wife and I are doing our first restoration on a ‘64 and your videos have been invaluable. Love the humor too!
@@MrFreddyStrings Thank you very much sir! I truly appreciate you being here. And good luck On your restoration. It truly is a pleasure in the end when you’re done.
Sure, here’s the playlist for the fuel system. There are two with a relocation for the fuel filter. ua-cam.com/play/PL1Q1aDiQaKKlbLZNVrOETAqp8eD2FjWvx.html&si=sNdxo7gLG1y43dnu
Ok.sooo.....Just bought a 74 beetle. Won't idle. I don't have a Solex on my beetle but a shiny new on that looks like a Solex. Not sure but I think it's a Chinese one. Car cranks and warms up for about 2 or 3 minutes and then dies. Would the adjustments for the Solex be the same as the suspected Chinese carb? 🤔
The adjustment would be the same Denton. But make sure to check for a throttle shaft leak. They have those issues! Plus, check for a vac leak on the intake areas too!
I am so glad found your channel. I have a 73 Super Beetle which I have had for 44 years. Just couple days ago I pulled her out from my back garage after 25 years. I have already learned few tricks from your last couple videos. Thanks.
Siamak E Welcome aboard, and thank you so much for being here. I try to put up as much as I possibly can, there will be much more to come. Congratulations on having your beetle that long. That is awesome! It’s nice to know some folks have kept them for a very long time.
Hey Slade - you made this video 2 years ago and it helped me out today. Thanks a lot and I wish you a great day!
I was going to do an updated version soon. Because I know some folks don’t scroll back to the old videos. I am truly happy that helped out! I try to have people share that video around wherever they can’t because it helps a lot of people. I hope you have a beautiful day.
When I had my 1973 VW Beetle, it had some aftermarket carburetor, which didn*t work to good, and as I am was driving it, the car was staying accelerated, I found a place where to stop to disconnect what would keep it idling very hard, and found a Solex -34 carburetor, problem resolved,👍👍👍👍👍👌👌👌👌and this was with the stock engine.
Great and useful tips! These real world tips from someone who has been there, rather than textbook theories, have really helped my beetle, thanks!
Thank you, especially for being here and taking the time to comment.
12:25 with ethanol fuel and a SOLEX 34 PICT-3 change the idle jet to 60 and the main jet to 127.5 or 130 😎
Enjoy all of your tips & tricks, you are the” MAN “. I rolled my 71 Super beetle convertible out of 25 years of storage and started the project. Everyday when I have a problem i watch one of your very informative videos and learn. Your camera angle is perfect for us to see what you are doing. Thank you again.
They are the best carbs by far, I made some butterfly bushing in previous job and yeah these bushes were out but usually last 30 years . Good tips especially with the wire on the hose clip !!
vwcoco thanks my friend and thanks for being here. Yeah the bushings on the throttle shaft usually wear out, which they do last quite a while though.
Absolutely helpful video. Extremely complete for what I needed too. My car has been running really high RPM and it was literally just the adjustments needed. Thanks.
Thank you so much sir! And thanks for taking the time to leave a comment, it makes it so worth doing these videos knowing that it helps others.
Thanks for posting this, very helpful, will be coming back again. I have been thinking of the fuel pressure regulator for my carb. Also, thank you for the tip about the jets. Thumbs up to HF for helping in this time of need.
Thanks for being here!! Trying to create an index on my channel for all to use. I’ll be doing my 68 soon, so a lot more to come. A regulator is a big help!
Thank you so much! First time I adjusted a carb and its driveable.
@@marco7563 outstanding! I hope it was very helpful, and thank you for taking the time to leave a comment.
love watching these video before starting my project. So very helpful
Thank you James I appreciate that
thank you for the jetting tips on the 34 pic 3 & good luck with the headliner 👍
5150mxVW Thank you very much Jason, and thanks for stopping by I truly appreciate it.
Thanks for the tip on checking for the potential fuel leak at the fuel inlet to the carb bowl... I'll be sure to check mine when I pull it out of storage in the spring before firing up.
And thanks for being here I truly appreciate it my friend
Can wait to see how you clean & rebuild...thank you 👍
Thank you!! And thanks for commenting!
The barbs on the brass fuel inlet only help to prevent the hose from coming off. The whole brass connector will still separate from the metal body of the carburetor after years of hot/cold cycles. Yes lock wire will work but you can replace the original brass fitting which is a press fit with the threaded brass fitting. You do need to tap a thread into the body of the carburetor but it’s an easy modification and a gold standard solution to prevent a catastrophic engine bay fire. Great video
Great info, knowing pressure is a great thing,, THANKS
Thank you for being here!!
Nice easy instructions to follow👍🏾
Thank you C10!! And thank you for taking the time to leave a comment.
Very informative as usual thanks
Keep up the good work 👍
Thanks very much, and thanks for being here!
This video helped me out alot on rebuilding my carb . Awesome videos ! Thank you !
Thank you very much!
Great video! Really helpful and easy to understand
Thank you!! And thanks for commenting!!
This is all great info dude! Keep up the good work and greets from the UK
Thanks very much Jimbo! And thanks for being here!
@@SladesVWBeetle Thanks for doing what you do my man!
You’re very welcome, I appreciate the feedback.
Another oldie but a goodie. I guess it would help if I had a VW to apply all this new found knowledge to.
Great info, keep up the videos man!
Thanks very much!! I truly appreciate you taking the time to comment!
Really helpful video on this old carb, thanks!!
Thanks. Just picked up a dune buggy. I had no idea how I worked.
Hope this helps! Thanks for being here!
I have a 1976 Honda gl1000 that was converted to use this carburetor. Glad I found this video hopefully I can get it to idle
I miss my ole gal...I had a 1974 Honda CB750. I love hondas!!!
@@SladesVWBeetle awesome! Nothing like an old honda lol
Thanks for the help on the solex carb. I have one on dune buggy and having some trouble with it.
Sometimes they can be a little finicky. Just make sure that you don’t have a vacuum leak at the throttle shaft. Sometimes the worn out ones can act silly. Thank you so much for being here I truly appreciate that.
I bought a 80 Honda Goldwing with a Solex 34 pic 3 that replaces the 4 stock carbs. The sucker revs like a beast but it won't idle. I think you solved my issues. The adjustment screw that rest and rides against the choke flap step down thingy is completely opposite of what you are showing. Cold it rest on the top of the choke thingy instead of the bottom. So to correct this I guess I have to warm up the engine and start with the choke thermostat and readjust the setting screw to nearly touch the bottom step? Sorry if I'm not making sense with my terminology.
If it won’t idle, make sure the throttle shaft does not have a vacuum leak. I would check that first.
And you want the screw that is on the throttle arm, barely touching the lowest step on the bottom lowest adjustment.
Thanks slade , need to adjust my carb as well. Will try this out!
Your welcome my friend!! I hope it helps!!
@@SladesVWBeetle if i can’t figure it out, ill give you a call haha! Thanks slade
Haha!! Sounds good!’
Very very helpful!
Thanks so much
You’re very welcome, and thanks for taking the time to comment and be here.
I have mine on a dune buggy as well I got the screws adjusted pretty close to about 800rpm. But when left alone idling it’ll bog down to where it’s about to die then idle back up to about 2000 rpm for a couple seconds and then back down. What do I need to adjust to get it running smooth.
Thanks for commenting, and joining the community here. OK if it’s bogging down that would sound like you have a vacuum leak? Have you definitely checked everywhere there could be a vacuum leak at?
Very informative! Thanks for posting this video!
Dub World thanks brother! And thank you for being here!
Awesome Video dude 👌
Thank you very much Lee I appreciate that.
At 2:04 you show a diagram.
At lower right, above the spring I have 3 brackets on my carb for tubes? Idk.
What are these brackes for and should they be capped? One bracket have lot of air flow/vacuum.
To the engine stand I have the harbor freight stand and built a 2387 on it. They work good. Only problem is you might have to install the fly wheel when it is on the ground.
Yes exactly!! I should have bought the 4 legged stand. But I went the cheap way.
Great video! Since I live in AZ, the temps like a lot of places vary to extremes. In tuning a 34-PICT3 carb, what range of sizes for the main jet and idle jet would you recommend getting, and any tips on how & when to step them up or down together? Thanks!
Thanks for your informative channel, you have earned a new subscriber. I came across your channel while searching for a solution to a problem. 8 months ago I picked up a ‘72 Ghia: I rebuilt the engine (it had low compression in 3&4, and bits of metal in the sump) but kept it stock. I cleaned the carburetor as you demonstrated in your other video. The carburetor is a relatively new IAP brand - looks like the Solex 34 PIC-3 in the video. The idle jet is a 55, and the main jet is a 127. I followed your instructions in both videos to the letter, and although the car starts when cold, it starts to falter as it warms up. My problem is I am unable to get the engine to idle above 600rpm no matter how far out I turn the idle (large) screw or however I adjust the fuel mixture (small) screw and I have to keep goosing the throttle to keep the engine running.
I’ve checked the valve clearance, replaced and gaped the points, replaced the rotor, rotor cap, wires and plugs (they needed replacement), the distributor is original and in good shape. I timed the engine as you demonstrated in your other video. Unfortunately the fuel pump puts out 7psi but it’s probably not starving for fuel.
Just to restate, my problem is I can’t get the engine to idle above 600rpm. Do you have any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Great videos! Very informative, well thought out and educational! You are very courteous to your viewers and take great care to ensure that we can see most things very well! You are doing a great job of your filming! don't worry about it so much Buddy, your doing Great! I eagerly wait for every video. I went to help support what you are doing by buying some merch, but there was nothing at all to buy! Are the shelves bare?
Thank you very much for the kind words, I truly appreciate it. I like knowing that the videos help others, it gives me a good feeling and makes me to film more.
We’re redoing the apparel and stickers! I appreciate you asking. I’ll make an announcement as soon as we’re done! Thank you for the support!
@@SladesVWBeetle No problem friend. You truly are helping at least one old Vdubber out there, ME! So, Thank You! Please keep all the different "stuff" coming. its not all just about tune ups and engine building (though i LOVE that content too) but, as you know, Dubs have so very many little idiosyncrasies that everyone should know. Its so much fun for me to watch you share a lot of those things too! Hang in there brother! keep the vids commin' and I'll be waiting!
Well thank you very much, and I do appreciate you taking out the time to comment. I always hope these videos help someone out a little bit. I do enjoy doing them.
Wow, finally I realized where I have a vacuum leak thanks to you. It’s the throttle shaft bushing. I have also noticed that on the left side of the throttle shaft it gets wet. Also, when I have the motor running and I’m revving the engine from the engine bay, if I pull down on the throttle quickly it will bog down a little bit and it would release air from the left side of the throttle shaft where it also is getting wet. Is this something that I can do, replacing those bushings or do I have to send it out to somebody? Thank you! Great video!
Thank you for taking the time to leave a nice comment, and watch the video! Volkzbitz does a great job with the bushings. He’s about the best!! You can do it yourself though. Have a great day.
Awesome video! If i want to upgrade to high performance,..and keep my 1600 single carb setup , which single carb do you recommend?
When adjusting the top screw, the one you said should barely touch the butterfly valve, should you adjust it with the spring on it off??? Seems like no matter how I turn the screw it’s always touching... can’t seem to get it to barely touch. Thanks!
You should have the return spring removed while adjusting it. That’s quite strange, when you are turning it counterclockwise is it turning out?
Very valuable information, thank you 👏👏
Great video, thanks for posting!
Thanks Gordon! I hope it helps!
Safety wiring the fuel line and fitting in is a great idea. Are the stock carbs really flowing enough air and fuel for optimum power? Would a 2 barrel carb be a better option?
Honestly the stock carburetors do a really nice job, and you can work with the jetting if need be.
They’re very simple to work on.
Now if you’re running a high-performance engine, I always run dual carburetors. Anyone that has ran the two barrel carburetor’s that I know of, speaking of the progressive carburetor that is, has had a lot of issues with them.
@@SladesVWBeetle Thanks. I was just curious because of earlier experience I had withe the old Dodge slant 6. It was really a change to go to a 2 bbl on that versus the single they came with. Really asthmatic performance with the single in that one.
@@oldtanker4860 It's widely reported that dual barrel is better in an ideal World , however it needs the ideal manifold, the ideal amount of vacuum, the ideal fuel pressure and flow rate and after you get that sorted you really need to make the final tuning on a rolling road and that will cost a couple of hundred dollars.
Then you might need to have that adjusted or checked every year depending on your mileage.
I've rebuilt mine a few month back, I have the sole 34-pict4
@@hayden7525 outstanding!!
Great video, definitely help
Thank you very much! And thanks for taking the time to leave a comment.
I love the videos. I have just ordered myself a reconditioned engine for my bus as the engine was shot. I’ve bought a 34 pict 3 carb to rebuild to go on the new engine. Here in the uk, we’ve just started using E10, 10% ethanol unleaded fuel. What would you recommend I do to make this run correctly? Same jets as you mentioned in the video.. many thanks in advance
Hi John! That’s sad they switched to the 10% there. Wished they would go away with it here. They never will though.
You’ll have to jet and check your plugs. I start with a 127.5 main. Sometimes a 130. The idle jet I usually see the 60 works well instead of the 55! This 10% Makes then run lean and hot. So running a bit rich helps out!
@@SladesVWBeetle , thank you for the information. I’ll definitely go with them jets. I want this to run perfectly as it can. It was 5% here for a year or 2, now gone to 10. It’s here to stay and everyone here hates it. Thanks again😊
Thanks you for sharing so many tips !
May I ask you something, our T2AB has no power when switching 1 to second gear. The carb is the same of yours.
Could you please tell a way to fix that issue ?
Many Thanks in advance from France
Thanks for this video. I've got a 1600 problem child and your video explains a lot of my issues. I have a question about vacuum sources. Where do you run the hose from the vacuum advance to the carburetor? Is it the one over the mixture screw or is it the one in the rear of the carb?
Thanks for being part of the group Randall, and thanks for taking the time to comment. That would be the vacuum port above the mixture screw on the driver side of the car. I hope that helps.
@@SladesVWBeetle Thanks. I wasn't sure which one was the proper one for the distributor. I had an 009 and after viewing this video as well as a couple of others I went to the vacuum model.
@@randall1959 you are so much better off with the SVDA, the vacuum model! It eliminates the flat spot and run so nicely.
@@SladesVWBeetle Evidently I have a defective distributor. I can't figure it out. The points are adjusted correctly and even when it's properly timed it sits there and backfires and won't run on all four but as soon as I drop the 009 in it has a flat spot but at least it runs.
Thanks Slades VW
And thanks for being here Rudy!
Hey, thanks, I’m about to go adjust my carb because I can’t get it to stay running.
If it still don't idle, check for vacuum leaks
Great Videos! What do you do if you lose one of the 4 screws and spacers to the automatic choke collar? Anything you can use to replace these? They don't come in the small kit.
Honestly, if you have a local Ace Hardware, or something similar, you could probably match something up fairly easily. Just don’t forget to take one of the screws and spacers with you.
Very helpful video .
Thank you very much!
great one - Hi - Sathi from Malaysia - remember you were saying about the thermostat spring arm - mine likely popped out as the thing is very flaccid and does not activate the choke - any guide on refitting that arm? Thanks
Good video, i appreciate that you pay attention to detail on your Channel👍 I have a 66 bus with a solex 30 pitc2 carburetor and I noticed fuel leaking from the side maybe where you were talking about the bushings were located. can that happen?
90 f is over my head, 😂! I agree they don’t make anything like they did it the past, yes, it is what it is! Stay safe!
How Laney Lives It’s so true, they don’t make things like they used to unfortunately. Stay safe my friend I hope you have a wonderful day.
Slades VW Beetle hey
Thanks and same to you
Awesome video, so helpful. I have a Solex Pict 3 and fuel is gushing out of that throttle shaft exactly where you say to spray carb cleaner. So I assume I need new bushings? Is that a diy project? Excited to watch your rebuild video!
That will definitely need new throttle bushings put inside. There’s a guy online Volkzbitz , that you can send them to. He is the best.
Slade, good info. Two things... good tip on the idle screw just touching that bottom "step." Also, you say throttle shaft bushings might leak. I've had a few of these apart and there's only a "warpy" washer on each end. Is that what you are talking about? Thanks.
There’s a bushing inside of there I believe, I never tried to repair one myself. But it isn’t just the washers. I probably should try to do a video on it.
Great videos!!! I do have a question: if you change the jets out for running the ethanol gas and you fill up with ethanol free gas down the road with those same jets in, what is the outcome?
I really do not believe it’s going to make a difference if you run the non ethanol fuel. It will still run fine.
It would run richer, but not enough to be an issue. What you don’t want on an air cooled engine is for it to run too lean, will run hot.
Great help thank you!
And thanks for commenting!!
Great Video, got a question every so often my 1600 with a 34pic3 wont idle and it starts to run rich ,then seems to clear and go back to normal ,could this be a dirty idle jet?
I would definitely remove the idle jet and put a tiny piece of wire through it!
@@SladesVWBeetle thanks from down here cheers mate
Hi there! Very good video and a nice explanation!
I own a Kadett C and I 'd like to adjust it's 30/35 Solex. Is it equivalent or I should do something more? What is a good setting for both fuel mixture and air screws? One and a half for the fuel and two for the air one? And for the idle setting, should I turn the throttle screw or the small screw on the upper side? I would appreciate your advice. Thanks once again!
Thank you very much for the nice comment on the video. I have to be honest with you I am not familiar with that carburetor. So I would not know the initial settings, I’m sure there has to be something online, like a diagram. That is one that I’ve never messed with yet.
@@SladesVWBeetle It's ok, never mind, it is similar with this one on the video, which is-believe me- very very helpful! I'll do the steps on it!Have a nice day! Cheers!!
I truly wished I could’ve been helpful. I just never seen one before.
@@SladesVWBeetle Keep up the good job mate!
Hi there, how 're you doing? As I finished with the adjustments on my 35 PDSI, I 'd like to inform you about the steps I followed as below : after cleaning the carburettor I did the pre-settings as you said on the video, then started up and let the engine warm up. When reached operating temperature I opened the air screw (anti-clockwise) almost 4 turns out until the rpm reached the maximum possible speed (peak). At this point I turned it in, half a quarter, just to gain 10 more rpm. As for the fuel screw on the left side, I turned it out 2,5 turns and noticed that the rpm was slightly dropping. So turned it in to the point that the rpm raised to the maximum. That was on 1,8-2 turns and the sound became smoother. Finally I adjusted the idle to 920-935 rpm as it runs better that way (instead of Opel's recommendations for 870-880).
All the above are just for your info. There are many Opel GT's in the US and you might be asked for-just in case.
(Sorry for bothering all the time but you give the most precised informations concerning our 70's German Treasures!)
Have a nice day and keep up!
Great video!
Thank you so much Marci! ✌🏼
Thank you very good info 👍👍👍
Thank you Joshua, for taking the time to leave a comment.
The clamps that mentioned what size are they for the rubber German braided line
My 34 PICT-3 has a pop rivet blocking the hole in the bottom carb butterfly. Opinions?
I am going to use this video for setting up my solex 30/31 starting at 2 1/2 turns and going back and forth. I can't find any other info on them. Any comments
i have a question about the sonic cleaner how difficult is it to clean say for example i clean my rocker arms then my will want to clean her rings ( wedding rings)
Works great for both.
Just clean the tank well before doing jewelry. But cleans up very easily.
My latest video I show the rocker arms I just cleaned that were laying on my bench. I just show them quickly while doing my handbrake video.
ua-cam.com/video/7aAK06DQc3A/v-deo.html
Hey there....my 1600 DP with a AH block code, 34 pic 3 carb says it has a 65 idle jet....
Not sure about my main jet yet. Is 65 too big. You were saying to get a 60 idle and 130 main.
A 65 seems quite large to me. If it runs okay, that’s fine. Usually there’s a 55 and I go up to a 60.
Is that part on left of carb that you kept touching is that called a fuel shut off valve or idler do they go bad what are symptoms if bad my 73 beetle just cuts off at stop sign lately
I believe you’re talking about the fuel shut off valve. How to test it is turned your ignition to the on position and see if it clicks. That’s how you can test it. Or with a hot wire touching the end of it
Im really struggling to get my carb set right. I do 2½ turns on each it wont run. My fuel screw is out like 5 turns 2½ on the idle. Also as you spoke of when i spraybin the shaft it does bog down. Can i get passed that until i dual carb?
If it is bogging down a bit when you are spraying the throttle shaft, there’s definitely a vacuum leak. It would need taken apart and new bushings put in.
What is the solenoid on the side of the carb for? On the lower base plate.
If you mean on the drivers side of the carb, with a wire going to it? That’s a
Idle Shut Off Valve
the valve on the side of the carburetor that provides air to the idle circuit. This valve closes when the key is off, preventing "Run on". If it doesn't open you won't idle!
How much ethanol do you have in your fuel, here in denmark we have 5 and 10%, just to compare, do i need to get ahold of new jets at 5% ethanol?
They claim ours is at 10%, although I think it’s higher.
Which causes us to upjet, so that we don’t run to lean. The best thing for you to do, would be to check your plugs in about 100 mile and see if you’re running to lean. And then you would up jet.
What are the disadvantages of the 34 PICT 4 compared to the 34 PICT 3 (no a simple answer please)? What does "PICT" stand for?
Quick question… which vacuum tap connects to the distributor? Thanks
The one on the driver side of the carburetor, right next to the mixture screws. That will go to the distributor.
@@SladesVWBeetle thanks, that’s where I have hooked up.! I bought a new Pertronix distributor and coil, don’t want any issues down the road! I plan on using my 72 as daily driver in warm weather!
@@bobsbarnworkshop Outstanding!! Pertronix is nice!!
@@SladesVWBeetle I'm gonna need some advice on the pedals too, My big foot gets stuck between the gas pedal and brake! The carpet was installed hokey and it's loose and wads up by my foot.... not good!
@@bobsbarnworkshop I’m actually going to do the pedal rebuild video. With moving the clutch pedal over. Then replaced the gas pedal with a roller pedal. Total rebuilt but that’ll be the concept. Creates more room for our feet.
Hi. I'm having abit of trouble with the distributor vacuum hose and vacuum hose ports on the carburetor I'm not sure which hose goes where. I'm getting comments online and they all different ways to put the hoses.
Eg. Distributor hose goes left side on carburetor, front ports on carburetor are blocked off I got 2 ports on my carburetor in front and one just under those two on the right.
Does it matter how it is connected? Depends on engine, distributor, carburetor etc you using?
Hi Igor! If you have a single port distributor, the hose will go up on the driver side of the carburetor port.
If you have two nipples on the distributor, one on the back of the vacuum pot, the one on the back will go to the front of the carburetor. If it has a single port distributor, the front ports on the carburetor will be capped off.
What altitude are you with your jets? curious i have a customer with a new carb and idling issues, were about 6000 ft
It shows online I’m at 1223 feet.
I found a way easier way to remove the engine out of a Volkswagen Beetle by cutting off the back panel after removing the side back fenders it is a quick cut a quick cut pull it off you got all that open area to pull your engine right out and then you do some simple welding some grinding and some paint and you're all good. in my eyes its the easyer way to pull out engine
bruh it’s already easy as fuck to pull the engine out takes 5 minutes your making it harder on yourself
what is wrong with the 31 pict-4 carburettor if the oil increases? so do they go with gas? the carburettor has been replaced with a repair kit and a raised valve, and maybe the 1.5mm washer was thicker.. there is an electric fuel pump and when you look at the throat, at least it doesn't flood when it's turned off and it doesn't stall when turning
Would I adjust the carb according to your instructions if the carb is not new or just installed?
Doesn’t matter
Great video
Junior Classic VW bugs Thanks man I appreciate that.
Slades when you installed the after market transmission mount. Did you have to remove the OEM bolt by the transmission nose 👃 ? The ones that are pressed into the mount receiver where you have to faster with it the ground strap?
Junior Classic VW bugs I actually use the factory style mount. I’m not quite sure what you mean.?
Slades I sent you and email with my cel number to the email you provided me for the website. You call me if you spare some time or I can call you if you send me you number in the email reply.
question: I have a solex brosol h 30/31 pict carb on a 1300 55 idle jet 122.5 or 125 main. just rebuilt it and it started up great no bog ran great. Turned the car of went in the house came back out turned the car on it loaded up bad on the start and then it will not idle now WTF? check the solenoid and it works fine. I have no idea what the problem could be. Any suggestions?
Thank you soo much❤
Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment
@@SladesVWBeetle my pleasure I might some questions and you might be sorry😳
hi i have the H30/31 CARB when i pull on the throttle it does not spay fuel out of the pipe. what is the problem i have taken everything off i think and cleaned and blown everything still nothing.
Hi there
I am having problem with the idle, the idle just can not stand
I wondering if the idle solenoid can be a problem
How can I check the idle solenoid works properly
Rather then this, what else show I check?
How can I check for air leakage?
Many thanks in advance
To check the idle solenoid, turn the key on, to the on position, then take the wire and pull it off of the idle solenoid and put it back on. And see if you hear a click. That will tell you if it’s working. Also make sure you have power going to it.
If it is working I would take some WD-40 or something similar. While the car is running spray the throttle shaft, and other areas of the intake to to see if the idle jumps up or down.
Thanks Slades!
Actually there was a wire terminal was loose
But I only could find by pulling the wires
I have Pertroxi ignition and the wires do not sound a good quality
Anyway many thanks for your help!
Cheers
Help!! I had mine laid up for a year. Came out to start it and will not start. Checked the pump and it’s working but fuel is not getting into the chamber.. any ideas why please?
Do you man, no fuel into the fuel bowl of the carb? If so, your fuel pump failed. I am guessing, with a small amount of info.
can you provide a link or contact info for the guy that rebushes the throttle shaft bore. I couldn't understand in the video.
Absolutely Roger! I’ve updated my camera and mic in my most recent videos. Here’s his website.
www.volkzbitz.com/
?Any chance of a how to set timing video on the 1600 twinports too?
Oddly enough I’m doing a distributor install tomorrow with static timing and timing gun timing! But it won’t be up for about 6 days
@@SladesVWBeetle Awesome! That's great timing... I'll see myself out haha! Got a 71 bus with a 1600 in so will await all your future videos dude! Subbed and bell rang :)
Thanks I appreciate that! I’ll mention you in the video!
What could be the issue if my butterfly valve wont shut, ive tried a million things and it still wont close. Almost like the auto choke will not work at closing it at all, any ideas?
Thanks for being her Nathan, first remove the choke thermostat, Spring, and make sure it’s hooked up properly. How’s the three screws on it closest to the alternator.
I’ve got a 1973 or a 1972 super beetle it turns on sometimes and sometimes it doesn’t but it doesn’t stay on what’s wrong with it please let me know!
It’s hard to diagnose, online. Do you mean it starts right up and runs fine? And sometimes then it doesn’t? Is the key just clicking and nothing happens? Sometimes?
@@SladesVWBeetle it don’t turn on no more, yesterday I put the carburetor into a carb juice that’s cleans it and today I tried putting it back on and the paper Gasket a super small piece fell inside of the intake but I talked to a couple of mechanics and all of them said it shouldn’t affect it and it should just burn off and it might get stuck to a Vowel, so i still tried to turn it on and it doesn’t start no more I shot gas down the choke and nothing it still cranks but it doesn’t start, there’s still spark but it just don’t start, can you help me on that
I have the 34 pict 5 on my bmw E12 the idle is very well maintained but damn that carb chews gas like idk....once u get moving .....1ltr only goes up to 7 kms
I see the rust. Plus or minus. Sounds like a lot of work!
How Laney Lives Yeah it all needs cleaned up.
Would be awesome if you did a choke/spring tension video....
Hey Slade, my 72 super had a 34-p3 carb on it. The vacuum lines were all messed up when I bought it. I set the static timing to 7.5 degrees. Here’s the problem. My distributor has two vacuum lines on it and I’m not sure where they go. Right now I have the front line going to the port on the left of the carb and the retard line going to the port t manifold below the carb. Now when I check the timing with a light at idle the mark retards back to almost tdc?! So do I set the timing back to 7.5 with the lines connected? Now it idles bad!
Unless I am misunderstanding, you should only have a vac line on the drivers side of the carb, going to the distributor. The port near the mixture screws. The others should be capped off, even the one below the carb on the intake. I would cap them off, for except that one, and when setting the timing, disconnect the vac line going to the dizzy, and cap it off at the carb. Set timing, then hook it back up. I would also consider setting timing at full advance.
@@SladesVWBeetle The old distributor on my 72 has two vacuum lines. I read one was advance, the other retard... Couldn't find a diagram of how to connect them, So I bought a new Pertronix distributor and coil, shotgun method fixed it! Thanks!
My fast idle cam is just dangling, no tension. Any suggestions?
Remove the cover from your choke thermostat on the other side. Where the wire goes too. There’s three screws!
The spring either broke, or it’s not attached to the spindle leg.
@@SladesVWBeetle thanks so much for the reply! My wife and I are doing our first restoration on a ‘64 and your videos have been invaluable. Love the humor too!
@@MrFreddyStrings Thank you very much sir! I truly appreciate you being here. And good luck On your restoration. It truly is a pleasure in the end when you’re done.
Where do the vacuum lines go?
What position of cable chook to coil ?
I’m sorry, I don’t know what you meant? But I will try to be of help.
You had a quick word on a rack for the fuel filter. Can you show how you rigged that up?
Sure, here’s the playlist for the fuel system. There are two with a relocation for the fuel filter.
ua-cam.com/play/PL1Q1aDiQaKKlbLZNVrOETAqp8eD2FjWvx.html&si=sNdxo7gLG1y43dnu
Thanks ! @@SladesVWBeetle
Ok.sooo.....Just bought a 74 beetle. Won't idle. I don't have a Solex on my beetle but a shiny new on that looks like a Solex. Not sure but I think it's a Chinese one. Car cranks and warms up for about 2 or 3 minutes and then dies. Would the adjustments for the Solex be the same as the suspected Chinese carb? 🤔
The adjustment would be the same Denton. But make sure to check for a throttle shaft leak. They have those issues! Plus, check for a vac leak on the intake areas too!
Ethanol contains oxygen, that’s why you need to run larger jets, takes a richer mixture to get optimum combustion. Ethanol has less energy content.