You posted this video 11years ago and I just saw this now..Bearing is my biggest fear..I'm so unfortunate..Thank you so much for this technique...May God Bless you...🙏🙏
Nearly 7 years after this video was made and it is the best one so far explaining this process. Straight forward and to the point. Thanks Steve!!! New subscriber.
I would use full ceramic bearings how much do the steel bearings weigh plus the big crank. bearings plus I know 2 big full ceramic bearings will cost ££££ for the crank but the transmission bearings will be £££ plus get a bearing tool to seat these expensive bearing plus get 4 wheel bearings for the wheels I bet this will drop alot of weigh in the engine plus ceramics will give longer crank life
Awesome idea with the socket and extension to head the inner race. I've used a small torch directly on the inner race in a circular motion, but like the even heating transfer method a lot more. Glad i watched this, I just removed the old bearings and crank from a DRZ400 last night, and its going back together tonight.
This is my go to as I've had so much trouble in the past with presses, mostly due to the fact that it is hard to stabilise the case halves when pressing in the bearings...
thanks for posting this video im currently installing a new Bearing in my Yamaha PW 80 2 stroke and I wasn’t sure how to go about this keep up the good work!
Good video. I rewind electric motors and we have a bearing heater for placing bearings on a shaft. You can use a propane torch and place the old bearing flat on a surface and place the new one so it's vertical on the old one so you can rotate it while heating the inner race. Doesn't take much heat and works well. Easy to do but hard to explain it with words.
For installing bearing races for Cat machine diffs I've used induction heaters ( bearing heater ) work a treat especially because you can control the thermal expansion by setting the heat...
I run a small engine/ATV shop and I think you did great. You've got me beat with the heat. I tried it out on a Yamaha rt100 and never tried it again.. I think I was just too chicken to heat up my case halves hot enough.. Maybe I'll try it on the Quadrunner I have to wrench on today. Good vid
Obviously its a little nerve racking the first few times. As long as you don't have any rapid heat changes you'll be fine and just let the cases cool slowly. I plan on remaking this video and getting some more up soon....
Thanks for video, I used the process with a Yamaha 660 case out of a Rhino / Grizzly I had mixed results, One of the bearings dropped right in as seen on this video But the other 10 took tapping, or using the press and or using a hammer to set them in. Just keep moderate expectations with multible options open.. I put the crankcase assembly in the freezer, put on vise, and put the case over top and used a 4lb plastic mallet to tap case down onto bearing..
Used electric ovens are plentiful and cheap if they've cosmetic damage, and easy enough to place on a wheeled dolly for easy movement about the shop. They're also nice for heating heads for valve guide installs etc.
nazminazminazminazmi in my opinion, I feel that localised heating can put a lot of pressure on the cooler, thinner areas. Also most times you are installing all the bearings so it makes sense to heat the entire case and let it cool at an even rate.
The best practice is a bearing puller tool however you can very carefully heat the bearing with a torch. I have used tin foil to deflect the heat from getting to the shaft and then concertrating the heat in one spot if the inner race.
This is crazy. Are those bearings old? I use this method but the second I drop the bearing or crank in the heat evens out and the bearing or crank is in there solid, I can't take it out multiple times like you. I freeze the bearings, do you think that is the reason?
mutilatedjello some engine cases have tighter tolerances and so it's pretty much a one shot deal with the installation. Remember the aluminium cases will lose heat faster than the steel bearings so if the bearing is sub zero it will rapidly cool the cases and contract making multiple attempts very hard.
When I use this method I better get the bearing dropped in straight the first time, cause if it wedges the bearing gets hot and I have to start all over. Though they’re usually magnesium cases I’m working with, and they’re painted so can’t get them too hot
Mate props to you. This was the most impressively clear, concise and invaluably informative video I've seen. No bullshit, just really priceless information. However I'm having issues, and you might not reply to this let alone reply before I have a go and fuck my transmission casing up for the 2nd time. But basically, I'm pressing a brass sleeve bush into my a brand new aluminium transmission casing. The casing is roughly the same thickness as your casing in the video but has paint on the other side. Food paint which is why I bought thw casing. So I wouldn't want to melt it. On top of this the hole for the brass bush to fit isn't just too small, it's smaller than the exposed hole in my original casing. Almost as if the bush installation permanent increases the hole size or the manufacturer drilled the hole larger before hand. I would say where the bush is roughly 8-10mm diameter, the hole is nearly a whole mm smaller. I've seen tight fits before but because the piece is comparatively a lot smaller than your bearings, I'm concerned that even a blow torch, freezer and press wouldn't get it in without breaking the brass bushing. Any ideas what to suggest. Machining the bush down is my best idea so far. I'm also concerned that too much heat on the inside of the case might melt paint on the outside.
Hi I love your video .. i have this problem i was changing the water pump shaft when i put the cases back together and tide the bolts the piston won't spin if i untied them the piston spin normal do you have an idea what can that be
I think the water pump drive gear is binding somehow. Maybe check to make sure you installed the shaft correctly. Also all bearings must be seated. Did you remove the crank? What bike? More details..
Sometime the surrounding material will pull away the heat when localising the heating with a torch, remember aluminium is very good a heat dissipation. I don't recommend localised heating as it can lead to cracks/war page if the cases! Remember to heat cases uniformly in an oven (even an old gas BBQ just don't let the cases get too close to the flame ).
*Tries to fit crank with hot cold method, doesn’t go in, sees this video and feels mocked* “see how I can instal and uninstall many times, see?” ..... -.-
You posted this video 11years ago and I just saw this now..Bearing is my biggest fear..I'm so unfortunate..Thank you so much for this technique...May God Bless you...🙏🙏
@@royersroy glad it helped 👍 GBU2
11 years ago and still his video is teaching, nice work.
@@rickhicks2445 I'm glad! 😌
Nearly 7 years after this video was made and it is the best one so far explaining this process. Straight forward and to the point. Thanks Steve!!! New subscriber.
Thanks heaps! I'm glad! Lol I really should share more of my tips and tricks..... I have a lot more 😂
Just replaced all 10 bearings and crankshaft in both crank cases in under an hour, no tools required, many thanks.
I would use full ceramic bearings how much do the steel bearings weigh plus the big crank. bearings plus I know 2 big full ceramic bearings will cost ££££ for the crank but the transmission bearings will be £££ plus get a bearing tool to seat these expensive bearing plus get 4 wheel bearings for the wheels I bet this will drop alot of weigh in the engine plus ceramics will give longer crank life
Awesome! It's so easy! Glad it helped!
This is the best tutorial on bearing and crank installation I have seen so far. Great job.
Best explained yet! Thanks for the lesson on how to DIY video and the talk through step by step.
Glad it's helped you!
Awesome idea with the socket and extension to head the inner race. I've used a small torch directly on the inner race in a circular motion, but like the even heating transfer method a lot more. Glad i watched this, I just removed the old bearings and crank from a DRZ400 last night, and its going back together tonight.
Great! Yes indeed... Heat transfer is a better way! Good luck!
Thank you *so* much! You just saved me $300 for an arbor press and untold number of ruined bearings.
This is my go to as I've had so much trouble in the past with presses, mostly due to the fact that it is hard to stabilise the case halves when pressing in the bearings...
thanks for posting this video im currently installing a new Bearing in my Yamaha PW 80 2 stroke and I wasn’t sure how to go about this keep up the good work!
Very well demonstrated and explained! Haven't seen a better one yet
Glad you liked it!
Awesome video. I just cancelled my order for a new crank puller. Will be implementing this method in my next video for my kx250f build.
this helped out tons! best sweat bearing video out there. all i used was my oven. thanks.
mistersteven matthews I'm really glad this has helped!! I should probably put up a few more videos 👍
@@stevo450ify Please do you make great videos.
Good video. I rewind electric motors and we have a bearing heater for placing bearings on a shaft. You can use a propane torch and place the old bearing flat on a surface and place the new one so it's vertical on the old one so you can rotate it while heating the inner race. Doesn't take much heat and works well. Easy to do but hard to explain it with words.
For installing bearing races for Cat machine diffs I've used induction heaters ( bearing heater ) work a treat especially because you can control the thermal expansion by setting the heat...
Thanks great vid and well explained. Will be using this method on my next engine rebuild. Thanks Again - Darren
Thanks. Will put your technique to good use. You are very skilled.
Thank you for sharing. This is great information. I was uncertain above temperatures and times.
My mind is blown!!!! So so awsome!!!
Haha my mind was blown... When I discovered how much easier it is to replace bearings this way🙈
Great job on the video and explaining what you're doing, top notch.
Thanks! More coming soon...
Thank you for your time n sharing your knowledge. I appreciate it, Big time.
I run a small engine/ATV shop and I think you did great. You've got me beat with the heat. I tried it out on a Yamaha rt100 and never tried it again.. I think I was just too chicken to heat up my case halves hot enough.. Maybe I'll try it on the Quadrunner I have to wrench on today. Good vid
Obviously its a little nerve racking the first few times. As long as you don't have any rapid heat changes you'll be fine and just let the cases cool slowly. I plan on remaking this video and getting some more up soon....
Thanks for video, I used the process with a Yamaha 660 case out of a Rhino / Grizzly I had mixed results, One of the bearings dropped right in as seen on this video But the other 10 took tapping, or using the press and or using a hammer to set them in.
Just keep moderate expectations with multible options open.. I put the crankcase assembly in the freezer, put on vise, and put the case over top and used a 4lb plastic mallet to tap case down onto bearing..
Thanks for sharing that trick I'll be using that method from know on
chears buddy, just about to change bearings on a BSA b40, this will be a great help 👍
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
awesome explanation, thank you very much for the video and sharing your knowledge
Thank you, lovin your method and enthusiasm 👍🌈
Glad it helped!
Thank you for the video!
Not 720p =/ Great video and a very good job explaining everything Stevo!
Thank you getting ready to tear into a yz85 for the first time
Mud Runners happy to help 😎
Excellent video, thanks for sharing these skills!
Brass works very well for heating inner bearing race. Just put the round brass rod slightly larger than the inner bearing race and heat the brass..
awesome vid man thank you for the upload
Excellent explanation
Used electric ovens are plentiful and cheap if they've cosmetic damage, and easy enough to place on a wheeled dolly for easy movement about the shop. They're also nice for heating heads for valve guide installs etc.
Really helpful - thanks for posting
Great video!!! Thanks
Very well explained
Hey very good video bud
helped me a lot👍🙏thank you
Great video
a question , why you have to heat up the hole case in the oven while you can just heat up the area that you need with burner ?
nazminazminazminazmi in my opinion, I feel that localised heating can put a lot of pressure on the cooler, thinner areas. Also most times you are installing all the bearings so it makes sense to heat the entire case and let it cool at an even rate.
Any tips on removing a crankshaft bearing from the crankshaft
The best practice is a bearing puller tool however you can very carefully heat the bearing with a torch. I have used tin foil to deflect the heat from getting to the shaft and then concertrating the heat in one spot if the inner race.
Thanx! Helped alot!
This seems so easy. Why are there videos of people needing to use stand-alone crank puller tools?
So 50k views 🙈 wow that's amazing! I haven't posted much ( lol ) bit would you guys be interested in more content?? If so what would you like?
Great video. Thanks.
This is crazy. Are those bearings old? I use this method but the second I drop the bearing or crank in the heat evens out and the bearing or crank is in there solid, I can't take it out multiple times like you. I freeze the bearings, do you think that is the reason?
mutilatedjello some engine cases have tighter tolerances and so it's pretty much a one shot deal with the installation.
Remember the aluminium cases will lose heat faster than the steel bearings so if the bearing is sub zero it will rapidly cool the cases and contract making multiple attempts very hard.
mutilatedjello sorry this is a year late reply, but what brand of motorcycle? I have noticed that some brands run very tight tolerances ....
Great tutorial cheers
It works!
Sure does lol
Very good video
When I use this method I better get the bearing dropped in straight the first time, cause if it wedges the bearing gets hot and I have to start all over. Though they’re usually magnesium cases I’m working with, and they’re painted so can’t get them too hot
Mate props to you. This was the most impressively clear, concise and invaluably informative video I've seen. No bullshit, just really priceless information.
However I'm having issues, and you might not reply to this let alone reply before I have a go and fuck my transmission casing up for the 2nd time. But basically, I'm pressing a brass sleeve bush into my a brand new aluminium transmission casing. The casing is roughly the same thickness as your casing in the video but has paint on the other side. Food paint which is why I bought thw casing. So I wouldn't want to melt it.
On top of this the hole for the brass bush to fit isn't just too small, it's smaller than the exposed hole in my original casing. Almost as if the bush installation permanent increases the hole size or the manufacturer drilled the hole larger before hand. I would say where the bush is roughly 8-10mm diameter, the hole is nearly a whole mm smaller. I've seen tight fits before but because the piece is comparatively a lot smaller than your bearings, I'm concerned that even a blow torch, freezer and press wouldn't get it in without breaking the brass bushing.
Any ideas what to suggest.
Machining the bush down is my best idea so far. I'm also concerned that too much heat on the inside of the case might melt paint on the outside.
Good paint* lol
Ugh how is it so easy for you? I’ve done it the same way except using a torch to heat the case and it didn’t work
Sir why the other mechanic the make it heated was tge bearing itself.it doesn't effect on those way?
Hi mate can u sweat it in when u joining both of crank cases bk together?
I guess so but I haven't seen an application yet depends on the engine
@@stevo450ify I just bought a crank puller best thing have ever bought lol
Hi I love your video .. i have this problem i was changing the water pump shaft when i put the cases back together and tide the bolts the piston won't spin if i untied them the piston spin normal do you have an idea what can that be
I hope that dont have nothing to do w the bearings cause I didn't look wish way there were
I think the water pump drive gear is binding somehow. Maybe check to make sure you installed the shaft correctly. Also all bearings must be seated.
Did you remove the crank? What bike? More details..
Is a polaris predator 500 2007
Does the bearings go one specific position or that dont matter
Top man
Is that 106 or 160 degrees?
160
Will this work for a pit bike crankcase such as the heat ?
Pretty universal! 👌
Keep calm & install your crank😂😂 ffsk
Yep not the greatest quality ... Eventually I'll get a decent video camera:)
Sometime the surrounding material will pull away the heat when localising the heating with a torch, remember aluminium is very good a heat dissipation. I don't recommend localised heating as it can lead to cracks/war page if the cases! Remember to heat cases uniformly in an oven (even an old gas BBQ just don't let the cases get too close to the flame ).
Yea I know ... It's not the greatest quality at all...eventually I'll get a decent video camera :)
Wow…
*Tries to fit crank with hot cold method, doesn’t go in, sees this video and feels mocked* “see how I can instal and uninstall many times, see?” ..... -.-
Curious ? What bike?
@@stevo450ify chainsaws lol
ir gun ~ maybe some temps instead of guessing
SOVEREIGNDesigns. Maybe check description.
Turn your phone 90 degrees
and hit your face by it ;)