Your videos are gold! Rebuilding an '04 CR85 with my 13yo son and found these videos. This video on bearings and seals is so well detailed it takes the fear out it! Keep up the great work we love it!
Oh man! Thanks Geoff! Funny, but now when I look at these older videos I want to redo them to make them better! But, I’m so glad you found it beneficial and thanks for sparing the time to leave such a kind comment!
Just came across this video. Great detailing. My kids use to race up from 85 to 125cc back in the day. So to speed up the bearing process I had to invest in a 20ton press. Problem solve. As much as you've been investing on these engines I'm sure you got one by now. Keep up the tutorials my friend.
I still have yet to buy a press. Mainly, because it takes up a lot of space and I'm able to accomplish what I need with my vice. But, if I had a bigger shop, I would definitely get a press... and a mill and a lathe and a vapor honing machine..... :)
Thanks Tony! I have pretty much completely retired the heat method in my work. I like to take my time and be precise and that’s just hard to do using heat.
Thanks Chris. I am very patient, actually. In mechanics, if you can’t keep your cool, you’ll end up losing too many tools when you resort to throwing them in frustration!
Thanks Jordon! The fact that I can help people by sharing my experience is what motivates me to make these videos. I’m so pleased I’m able to help you!
This is so helpful, thank you. It's nice to hear I'm not the only one who didn't feel right with the heat method, for the exact reasons you state. I'm about to start on my 250, going to try your cold press method. The only concern I have about that is making sure the bearings don't get askew at all because with the torque of the vise it would be easy to go too far.
Hi Slowride! I’m always careful to support the backside of the bore into which the bearing is being pressed. If you take it very slow (especially at first) it’s very unlikely that you’ll not press the bearing in squarely. Check the bearing regularly as you get close to fully seating so that you don’t exert undue pressure on the bearing. If you do these things, you can feel confident that it will all go smoothly. Thank you for watching!
You are a mechanical genius my friend! I really appreciate all the hard work that went into making this! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. How about some videos on a 2 stroke yamaha banshee engine rebuild?
Hi Alexander. Thank you for the kind words! I’ve never built up a Banshee, but it would be fun! I’ve never owned one, but if you have one you want to send to me….! 🤔
I am rebuilding a Honda GX340 right now. Needed to replace bearings. I put the crank cover in the oven at 245F and the bearings fell out in less than 30min. I tried the same on the block, but no luck, not even after 1 hour. Point is, heating in oven or BBQ can eliminate the hazard of open flame.
@@brian.d.mobley Yessir! You have to have everything laid out exactly ready to go with all the bearing driver sizes and everything handy just in case ... I practice run a couple of times to get it in my head which way the bearings face and all that good stuff ... then let er' rip!
@@11GalleryATV It’s funny, I also practice a little before I do the procedure too! For some reason, putting in bearings always makes me a little uneasy.
Hey Nitrous! I’m so stoked to read that! To know that I could help someone else is the fuel that drives me to keep making videos! Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment!
Brian, Great videos on the CR85. I'm the process of rebuilding one myself and you video have been extremely helpful. What was the part number for the gear selector drum bearing which wasn't supposed to be removed? All my bearing were complete rusted and ceased and need to be replaced. I ordered the same wrench rabbit kit but it did no have this bearing. Any help on part numbers would be appreciated. Thanks
Hey Greg! I’m glad the vids are helping. Regarding that bearing, it is NOT available anywhere that I’ve found. I had a viewer who literally searched the world for that bearing and thought he found a source in Japan. But, alas, it was on forever back order. The best option is to find a blown motor you can buy and just use the case half of that motor. If you haven’t already joined, look on Facebook for “CR85 Owners” group. You may find a member with a case half in there. If you get stuck, message me in Instagram. The link for my Instagram page is on my channel info.
Many manufacturers consider that to be a “non serviceable” bearing. In order words, if it needs replacement, the entire case half must be replaced. It normally won’t wear out. I have removed them with a blind bearing puller, but now I usually leave them alone.
Hi Jo. I don’t know the exact temperature as I don’t check the temperature while I’m performing this procedure. However, the heat required is not so much that it affects the structural properties of the aluminum.
I’m not specifically aware of any unique difference between a 1995 CR125 and other bikes, so I would just suggest to use your judgement. At that point in the video, nothing controversial was being shown.
just curious... will the bearing seat be eroded/scratched bit by bit and reduce the "holding strength" because the seat diameter is getting larger if we do cold press many times?
Sure. But how many times in the life of a motor would the bearings need replacement? The bores can probably take 40-50 removal and installation cycles, so how many years would that be? Maybe 150 or so? I guess the short answer is; yes. But, the practical answer is; probably a non-factor.
@@davidpalmer287 Heat is the popular way so somehow you feel like you MUST use heat. But, I feel like you. I don’t like it. Since I basically gave it up, I feel like my work is more precise.
@@brian.d.mobley I actually have a press but I always think im going to crack the case somehow so ive always used the heat method but i hate being in a rush especially when it has to do with the bearings.
@@davidpalmer287 You sound just like me! But I’ve found it’s easy to measure the bearing width and the bore depth and compare the values so you are sure the bearing is fully seated. And as long as you support the material into which you are pressing, you can feel confident you won’t damage anything.
I didn’t read all the comments, maybe someone a,ready said this…. But rather than dry ice, a great product to use is a can of “air duster”. It’s carbon dioxide. Turn the can upside down and let the liquid drip onto the bearing. It freezes it much colder than dry ice.
@@brian.d.mobley You’re welcome! Nice thing is - it freezes the bearings instantly. No waiting and they get ridiculously cold. Quite often you don’t even need to heat the case, just drop the frozen bearing right in. Regardless, I use an old toaster oven to heat my cases.
@@ayrguitars9173 I have kind of gotten away from using heat. I just don’t like it for some reason. I always feel pressure to work quickly and I don’t like to have to concern myself with maybe getting burned. BUT, I can still use the bearing freezer idea and press the bearings in. If I like the technique, I’ll give you credit for using it in an upcoming video!
@@brian.d.mobley I get it. I’ve pressed in bearings also and I prefer heating the cases in the oven. It provides even heat, which I think is less stress on the case than localized heat with a torch. Combined with canned air freezing, it results in a lot less stress on the bearing surfaces than pressing. The bearings drop right in; you really don’t need to work fast - and if they happen to not go the first time, a bit more canned air will freeze them instantly again. Try it out without heating the cases - use a but extra liquid from the can, most of the time you can get them in without pressing or hammering the bearings. I’m not a fan of pounding in bearings under any conditions.
@@ayrguitars9173 I will for sure give it a try. And, I agree with you about the torch. Im not doing that again. It cant be good for the cases to localize heat like that. Im going to try to just use the air freeze method first and then, if that doesnt work well, Ill go back and try heating the cases. I have a great little meat smoker that works great for that and provides even heat just like a stove or toaster oven.
Hi 1ST! A lot of people do! These days, Im mostly just using the cold press method as I don’t like the flame element as much these days. Thanks for the watching and for the feedback
Hi D1. Not sure exactly what you mean. You don't need to grease the BALLS of the bearings until assembly (which is not covered in this video). Only when installing bearing into metal bores would you need grease or something like Loctite 641 to prevent rust between the bore and the outer race. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
@@TheIslandboy11 Be careful about removing that bearing. If it’s the one I’m thinking of, it’s not intended to be removed. Check the service manual first to be sure.
@@brian.d.mobley I don't have a manual just been using your videos lol. I just noticed that bearing is starting to feel a little rough when spinning it and noticed you had it removed in this video
@@brian.d.mobley oh ok that’s a pretty fair deal and it’s completely together still if you would be willing to do it soon I will message you and let you know I have the complete top and bottom end rebuild kit
Hell yea Man I’ve rebuilt my bike thanks to your videos
So glad to read that! I need to make some more! I’ve been so busy with other things this year! Thanks for watching!
Your videos are gold! Rebuilding an '04 CR85 with my 13yo son and found these videos. This video on bearings and seals is so well detailed it takes the fear out it! Keep up the great work we love it!
Oh man! Thanks Geoff! Funny, but now when I look at these older videos I want to redo them to make them better! But, I’m so glad you found it beneficial and thanks for sparing the time to leave such a kind comment!
Just came across this video. Great detailing. My kids use to race up from 85 to 125cc back in the day. So to speed up the bearing process I had to invest in a 20ton press. Problem solve. As much as you've been investing on these engines I'm sure you got one by now. Keep up the tutorials my friend.
I still have yet to buy a press. Mainly, because it takes up a lot of space and I'm able to accomplish what I need with my vice. But, if I had a bigger shop, I would definitely get a press... and a mill and a lathe and a vapor honing machine..... :)
I'm about to do this to my bottom end. I like your cold press solution. I'm not a fan of the heat method for all the reason you quoted. Great video.
Thanks Tony! I have pretty much completely retired the heat method in my work. I like to take my time and be precise and that’s just hard to do using heat.
Brian what a great video. Can’t get over how calm and patient you come across as
Thanks Chris. I am very patient, actually. In mechanics, if you can’t keep your cool, you’ll end up losing too many tools when you resort to throwing them in frustration!
@@brian.d.mobley lolol
Rebuilding 87 cr80 and these tutorials are excellent!
Thanks Jordon! The fact that I can help people by sharing my experience is what motivates me to make these videos. I’m so pleased I’m able to help you!
Very nice. Tip: use wd40 on the wet and dry sandpaper to improve cutting and minimise dust. It will be better on the paper too
This is so helpful, thank you. It's nice to hear I'm not the only one who didn't feel right with the heat method, for the exact reasons you state. I'm about to start on my 250, going to try your cold press method. The only concern I have about that is making sure the bearings don't get askew at all because with the torque of the vise it would be easy to go too far.
Hi Slowride! I’m always careful to support the backside of the bore into which the bearing is being pressed. If you take it very slow (especially at first) it’s very unlikely that you’ll not press the bearing in squarely. Check the bearing regularly as you get close to fully seating so that you don’t exert undue pressure on the bearing. If you do these things, you can feel confident that it will all go smoothly. Thank you for watching!
You are a mechanical genius my friend! I really appreciate all the hard work that went into making this! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. How about some videos on a 2 stroke yamaha banshee engine rebuild?
Hi Alexander. Thank you for the kind words! I’ve never built up a Banshee, but it would be fun! I’ve never owned one, but if you have one you want to send to me….! 🤔
I am rebuilding a Honda GX340 right now. Needed to replace bearings. I put the crank cover in the oven at 245F and the bearings fell out in less than 30min. I tried the same on the block, but no luck, not even after 1 hour. Point is, heating in oven or BBQ can eliminate the hazard of open flame.
I put my case halves in the oven at 300° for 1/2 hour and freeze the bearings overnight ... they drop right in like butter!
Hey 11GATV! I’m glad that worked for you! I’ve done it that way too, many times, but you have to work fast!
@@brian.d.mobley Yessir! You have to have everything laid out exactly ready to go with all the bearing driver sizes and everything handy just in case ... I practice run a couple of times to get it in my head which way the bearings face and all that good stuff ... then let er' rip!
@@11GalleryATV It’s funny, I also practice a little before I do the procedure too! For some reason, putting in bearings always makes me a little uneasy.
Thos video really helped me out I'm rebuilding my Yamaha warrior 350 engine I'm close to getting my crank case torn apart and resemble together
Hey Nitrous! I’m so stoked to read that! To know that I could help someone else is the fuel that drives me to keep making videos! Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment!
Good video, and these techniques can be used on just about anything.....thanks
Sure Joseph. Good luck on your projects!
Brian, Great videos on the CR85. I'm the process of rebuilding one myself and you video have been extremely helpful. What was the part number for the gear selector drum bearing which wasn't supposed to be removed? All my bearing were complete rusted and ceased and need to be replaced. I ordered the same wrench rabbit kit but it did no have this bearing. Any help on part numbers would be appreciated. Thanks
Hey Greg! I’m glad the vids are helping. Regarding that bearing, it is NOT available anywhere that I’ve found. I had a viewer who literally searched the world for that bearing and thought he found a source in Japan. But, alas, it was on forever back order. The best option is to find a blown motor you can buy and just use the case half of that motor. If you haven’t already joined, look on Facebook for “CR85 Owners” group. You may find a member with a case half in there. If you get stuck, message me in Instagram. The link for my Instagram page is on my channel info.
Brian thanks for the information and the help. I appreciate it.
How did you get out that shift drum bearing? I need to replace mine. Thanks
Many manufacturers consider that to be a “non serviceable” bearing. In order words, if it needs replacement, the entire case half must be replaced. It normally won’t wear out. I have removed them with a blind bearing puller, but now I usually leave them alone.
@@brian.d.mobley thanks. I had to buy a used case and the bearings don't feel good and I have new bearings so I may try to replace that one too.
I would like to ask. What is the preferred temperature to apply on using torch to heat the aluminum case? Won't the aluminum become brittle?
Hi Jo. I don’t know the exact temperature as I don’t check the temperature while I’m performing this procedure. However, the heat required is not so much that it affects the structural properties of the aluminum.
Good video. This was very helpful.
Hey Zach! Thanks for the nice comment. Glad it helped!
Hi.. Nice video, your tip 17:51works on a 1995 cr125r?
I’m not specifically aware of any unique difference between a 1995 CR125 and other bikes, so I would just suggest to use your judgement. At that point in the video, nothing controversial was being shown.
Excellent video - thanks!
Glad you liked it! Thanks Dan!
is it standards to put the Crankshaft bearings Deep ? or float a little?
Hey Khent. The bearing should be seated all the way to the bottom. Thanks for watching!
I put my crankcase in an oven for even heating. Also to get them out, I used an electric heat gun
I put mine in the Weber and smoke it to get that hickory infused flavor in the pours of the metal.
I am using heat gun dear to heat up bearing holder.
Thank you for the great video
Hey Vincent! Thank YOU for the positive feedback! Thanks so much for watching!
just curious... will the bearing seat be eroded/scratched bit by bit and reduce the "holding strength" because the seat diameter is getting larger if we do cold press many times?
Sure. But how many times in the life of a motor would the bearings need replacement? The bores can probably take 40-50 removal and installation cycles, so how many years would that be? Maybe 150 or so? I guess the short answer is; yes. But, the practical answer is; probably a non-factor.
Great tips man
Thanks for always being so supportive Dan!
Trying to remove a Race from a blind side. Head. All your bearings allow for you to tap thru the casing.
Awesome video!!!
Hey David! So glad you found it useful!
@@brian.d.mobley I agree with you 💯 on using heat. I hate trying to hurry up to drop them in. Im gonna use you cold press method.
@@davidpalmer287 Heat is the popular way so somehow you feel like you MUST use heat. But, I feel like you. I don’t like it. Since I basically gave it up, I feel like my work is more precise.
@@brian.d.mobley I actually have a press but I always think im going to crack the case somehow so ive always used the heat method but i hate being in a rush especially when it has to do with the bearings.
@@davidpalmer287 You sound just like me! But I’ve found it’s easy to measure the bearing width and the bore depth and compare the values so you are sure the bearing is fully seated. And as long as you support the material into which you are pressing, you can feel confident you won’t damage anything.
Nice video man
Thanks Dan!! You are so nice to always watch my videos! THANK YOU!!!
I didn’t read all the comments, maybe someone a,ready said this…. But rather than dry ice, a great product to use is a can of “air duster”. It’s carbon dioxide. Turn the can upside down and let the liquid drip onto the bearing. It freezes it much colder than dry ice.
Hey Ayr! Thats a great tip! Im going to try that. Im building a new CR85 right now. Thanks for the tip and for watching!
@@brian.d.mobley You’re welcome! Nice thing is - it freezes the bearings instantly. No waiting and they get ridiculously cold. Quite often you don’t even need to heat the case, just drop the frozen bearing right in. Regardless, I use an old toaster oven to heat my cases.
@@ayrguitars9173 I have kind of gotten away from using heat. I just don’t like it for some reason. I always feel pressure to work quickly and I don’t like to have to concern myself with maybe getting burned. BUT, I can still use the bearing freezer idea and press the bearings in. If I like the technique, I’ll give you credit for using it in an upcoming video!
@@brian.d.mobley I get it. I’ve pressed in bearings also and I prefer heating the cases in the oven. It provides even heat, which I think is less stress on the case than localized heat with a torch. Combined with canned air freezing, it results in a lot less stress on the bearing surfaces than pressing. The bearings drop right in; you really don’t need to work fast - and if they happen to not go the first time, a bit more canned air will freeze them instantly again. Try it out without heating the cases - use a but extra liquid from the can, most of the time you can get them in without pressing or hammering the bearings. I’m not a fan of pounding in bearings under any conditions.
@@ayrguitars9173 I will for sure give it a try. And, I agree with you about the torch. Im not doing that again. It cant be good for the cases to localize heat like that. Im going to try to just use the air freeze method first and then, if that doesnt work well, Ill go back and try heating the cases. I have a great little meat smoker that works great for that and provides even heat just like a stove or toaster oven.
i like the idea of using a little heat from a flame and a little cold from the freezer, no need to do either excessively.
Hi 1ST! A lot of people do! These days, Im mostly just using the cold press method as I don’t like the flame element as much these days. Thanks for the watching and for the feedback
No grease on the bearings when installing?
Hi D1. Not sure exactly what you mean. You don't need to grease the BALLS of the bearings until assembly (which is not covered in this video). Only when installing bearing into metal bores would you need grease or something like Loctite 641 to prevent rust between the bore and the outer race. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
excelente !!!
gracias.
Thanks! Glad you like it!
What tool did you use to pull the blind transmission shaft bearing that is just above the blind shift drum bearing?
Here ya go. Ill update the description to include all the tools I used. Bearing Extractor Kit: amzn.to/3lrVytr
@@brian.d.mobley Ok thanks! I wasnt sure if that type would work with the protrusion that comes through the center of the bearing
@@TheIslandboy11 Be careful about removing that bearing. If it’s the one I’m thinking of, it’s not intended to be removed. Check the service manual first to be sure.
@@brian.d.mobley I don't have a manual just been using your videos lol. I just noticed that bearing is starting to feel a little rough when spinning it and noticed you had it removed in this video
@@TheIslandboy11 Check the video at 5:27. You don’t want to remove certain bearings. Double check the service manual.
What would you charge to rebuild a Yamaha 200 blaster? I could ship engine to you with all the parts
Usually about $500. But if it’s in pieces now and if it’s dirty, I charge to organize the parts and vapor blast the engine.
@@brian.d.mobley oh ok that’s a pretty fair deal and it’s completely together still if you would be willing to do it soon I will message you and let you know I have the complete top and bottom end rebuild kit
@@NRASUPPORTER1911 Email me if you can and explain what is needed specifically.
sterlinganadar@gmail.com
Good video...
Thanks! I know you already know everything in the video since you rebuilt your own CR85 motor recently! Girl Power!
Felicitaciones y muchas gracias por compartir tus sabios conocimientos baya reparar ese tiempo de motor mis saludos cordiales desde Lima Perú
¡Gracias, Justo! ¡Estoy muy feliz de poder ayudar a mis amigos en Sudamérica! Gracias por mirar y suscribirte.
How do you repair a worn and loose crankshaft bearing housing on a motorbike?
Please give me good solution.
There is no good solution other than replacing the crankcase
@@brian.d.mobley Even though it's only a little loose, around 0.1mm, can't it be heated and cooled using ice, Sir ?
@@wjalfi4935 It can. But if the bore is loose (too big) the crank bearing will not stay in place when the motor is operating
@@brian.d.mobley Ok, Thank you, Sir. 😊🙏
Amazing video
Glad you think so!
good
Thanks Farrukh. 💪🏻
Can I ask burning about how minute
Goud like
Thanks Sami!
Found it 😂
So sorry mate
No worries! 🤘🏼
👍👍👍♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰
thank you!