Just read one of the comments in here that said it is a max pv input of 100v and each of your panels are 18.8v times 5 so that puts you really close to the max pv input. Now if it rained or cooled down real quick then your pv voltage will spike above the max pv input on the controller. I have the one with a max pv input of 200v and was told to not go over 140v coming from my panels because of the spikes when you get a sudden change in weather or temperature outside on the panels. Even with only 140v of PV input I have seen my voltage spike to 165v when it started to rain. But then normalized after a couple of minutes. The spike could have caused your problem because you were already close to the max pv input anyway. And also keep in mind too that you have a max amperage input also. I was told this by a person from signature solar even though they don't sell epever products but I bought a growatt all in one system from them and they told me to leave some room for the voltage spikes when sudden temperature changes. He said at least 50v less than the max voltage. He told me that if it does spike over the max it will show an error but that it could also damage the mppt controller inside. So with every system that I set up I always stay at least 50v less than the max pv input listed for a particular unit no matter what brand it is. And amperage too. I hope this helps you with future installs. I would like to help as far as how to fix the epever that went bad on you but I don't do any electronic repairs inside. But like some of the other comments here, there may be a fuse blown inside. It couldn't hurt to take a look. Take care and good luck.
Você está totalmente certo. O perigo da reatância capacitiva e indutiva dos painéis solares no momento do sobreamento repentino faz a tensão subir em 1.9 vezes a tensão do painel solar plenamente iluminado. Exemplo 8x18voltes =96 voltes 96 voltes x1.9= 182.4 voltes !!! Se o limite máximo do MPPT charger for 100 voltes=boommm, blow mosfets
eddietotherow4917... thank you for answering a critical piece of information that I have been looking into for our 48 volt off grid system. We have (12) QCell DUO L-G5.2 390 panels (VOC 48.48)/(VMP 40.38) that I am trying to pair with our Absolyte GX 48 v/2,000 Amp hour VRLA battery bank.
So sorry to hear about the failure. It was a good reminder for me too upgrade my back up charge controller. I'm running my current model at 50% rated output, ( 40a/20a), in hopes to see ten years full time continuous duty. * Ten years is probably a reasonable expectation of maximum time in service life - IMHO 🇳🇱✌️♥️👍
Mahalo for that! With all my redundancies, I was caught flat footed without a suitable cc to drop in...that will be corrected in a matter of days! aloha 🤙
As an update: My Epever 4210AN has worked just fine after I took out a string of 40 foot wires leading to solar panels and I ultimately upgraded my panels and got rid of the old ones. I think there was a bad connection somewhere in the line or even the panels. Now I have 1600 watts of solar on top of my RV with two EPEVER's controlling 800 watts each. Oh and my Nissan leaf PARTIAL battery bank is awesome. EV batteries are much much better than any standard lithium or LifePo battery. My modules are of course used, cheap and work great!
I used to do a lot of low voltage high current DC troubleshooting. You are fortunate to have two controllers next to each other. If you swap the cables from one controller to the other, or if not enough slack in the PV cables, just swap the controllers, then you will have isolated the problem component for absolutely sure. If the same controller is still giving you a problem, I would suggest opening it up and checking the internal fuse. Don't trust the breaker, those black and red inexpensive breakers are known to not be reliable. If the fuses have continuity, then I would check all the capacitors and also the mosfets that are held against the heat sink. Normally those components are what is wrong in controllers, and also inverters. They are very inexpensive to replace if you know how to solder. If not, then try to find a local electronics enthusiast who should be able to get you going lickety split. I like your triple redundancy, just like NASA! If you do decide to get a new more reliable controller, I would suggest at least looking at the rock solid
Mahalo for all that great information on troubleshooting the possible problem of the controller. I am going to check everything you suggested. I know people tgat are using the Outback, and Midnight solar controllers. Both are definitely very good. Appreciate the help! Aloha 🤙
John - does having a solar combiner box make more sense to protect the the unit than the breakers? We are in the midst of design and building our 48 volt system/off grid and I will be installing a Solar Combiner Box prior to the Charge Controllers.
@@koborkutya7338 No, EPever is a Chinese company that builds pretty good stuff for good value even though they're from China. From my discussions with the engineers in 2001, Outback started with engineers who used to work for Trace, became disgruntled with their policies, and started their own company "outback" from Trace. I feel like both Outback and Midnight Solar are both the top quality equipment that you can find PERIOD. Although you will also be paying top dollar for it. Although I'm not too sure yet about the Midnight all-in-one hybrid inverter.
@@rongray4118 Typically a combiner box will have breakers inside of it. One breaker for each series string of panels in the array. There are code advantages to keeping the combiner box close to the array I believe it's 4 or 6 feet. These breakers protect the wiring between the panels and the charge controller. There should also be overcurrent protection between the charge controller and the battery, and also between the battery and the inverter. From my understanding the square D brand QO breakers are rated for up to 48 V DC. That information isn't very easy to find, but apparently if you go digging you can find it. I am not talking about the Square D homeline version. Which is different from the QO version. The QO breakers and panels are all easily available at the big box hardware stores. I have a 6/12 space QO sub panel for a combiner box, There are also UA-cam videos on how to make an inexpensive combiner box. Good luck! And congratulations for walking the walk. You will be so happy you did.
That sucks ! glad you have split into 2 banks . 50% is not 0 . gives you time to replace.. Think about getting that ground rod in better and some surge protection on your system. Midnight solar has them for panel input to controller. even a hard rain can make a charge that can hard comptroller . I have 5 controllers total on 3 battery banks. just for the house. They all Moring star type. .some 15 years old. never had 1 fail yet. looking forward to up date on this. 🙁☀
Yeah, 50% is not dead in the water! And other than when I took a direct hit on house with lightning, this my first outright failure. Btw...I've had two direct hits on house in 30 year's, so I'm taking to heart what you say, and have those midnight products on list. Hoping for an update on this in about 10 day's....sooner if I get lucky enough to fix it through more troubleshooting. But me thinks it's dead as doornail! aloha 🤙
Would love to see your set up! That is where my wife and I want to end up - fifteen years free of headaches! After having a heart attack and 4 stents installed last year... I don't want to drop dead and leave her in a lurch not knowing how the system works on top of the mountain.
Ohhh, darn. Well going Victron is a safe bet, and you remotely monitor your whole system. Good thing you have 2 controllers and not dead in the water. Cheers and hope some good steady sun heads your way the next few days to keep you charged up. Cheers
I have the 100 amp mppt charge controller for a couple of years now and i hope this never happens to me they are not cheap cant wait to see what u get 🧐
I had this same problem. Solution was to turn off solar input then turn off batteries. Disconnect positive and negative cables from battery or 2 cables where battery is supplied from charge controller. Reverse procedure to reconnect. Hopefully it will work for you too.
Mahalo for sharing this information ! I will definitely try as you suggested before completely giving up. Plus, a replacement is many day's away! Aloha 🤙
Could be series voltage got too high, you could try parallel or remove a panel. (+100v spike)~ I agree (disconnect and restart), my residential panels caused similar issues. Best wishes
I had the exact same problem with the same 30a and 40a EPEVER model controller, with Lifepo4 batteries. The issue was the default lithium settings are way too high for the BMS of the batteries and triggers the controller to stop charging. You must use the USER option for battery setup, and lower all the voltages to no more than 14.2 for Boost. To get the controller back operating, you must disconnect the panels, then the battery for 10 minutes or so to reset it, then with battery connected, change over to user and lower the voltages as mentioned. I used 14.2 for boost, and 14.5 for max disconnect and the unit has been functioning. I also lowered the Boost time to 90 minutes with my 300ah battery bank. The EPEVER is not compatible with the Lifepo4 battery BMS turning off for full or over voltage and that's the problem. I will never buy another EPEVER unit.
Update to my previous post!! I have figured out these EPEVER AN and Triron controller parameters. These units function fine, just the default settings are not intuitive for the average Lithium battery setup. When they stop charging during the day, even when the batteries are not full is because a dead space is created between Boost and Float, when those settings are different in the parameter settings. I.E., if you have boost at 14.4 and Float at 13.8, charging will stop once the charge duration for boost is set, and not return until voltage drops below 13.7. Resetting the controller unit will just repeat this process. In addition, the default 14.6 boost setting can easily trigger the battery BMS protection, which can further cause the system to stop charging. My OPINION is you should not set the EPEVER anywhere near the upper charge/boost limit, and then the boost and float value should match, and you will have continuous charging until that set point is reached. For example, if you want to maintain your LIFEPO4 battery at 95% SOC, you would set charge limit to 13.7, boost to 13.4 and float to 13.4. Yes, this is different from the recommendation of 14.2 to 14.6 for charge limit, but for efficiency and longevity, you don't want to daily take your batteries to 100% SOC. Also in multi battery setups, some BMS will trigger at +/_ 1.v differentials which will lead to that battery turning off, and the next battery will attempt to overcharge, triggering that BMS, while the Controller will turn off charging since no current will be flowing. For those that say they get a parameter error when trying to lower the values under user, you have to set them in the proper order, and even if you have 000 (zero) for equalization time, the value must lower than the charge limit setting. Example, to set charge limit to 13.9, you must set equalization to 13.9 or lower, even though you will not equalize and select 0-minutes for lithium. You can then adjust your charge limit and boost value lower than defaults. I hope this helps many, that are thinking their EPEVER Controllers are faulty with Lithium batteries. Now, Tracer should have done a better job with the setup, and or explanation of this process. They should have set the defaults at the lowest end of the scale versus the maximum.
I ended up doing much the same before switching them out with Victron charge controllers. For my system, I lowered the boost to 14.1 ultimately as 14.2 was still too high. Reduced the boost time to one hour. That worked pretty good, but compared to the Victrons....well no comparison. Victron outshines in every way. The Epevers have now been relegated to backup . Mahalo for sharing your information with us...aloha 🤙
The high-voltage cutout bug within Epever also fails out on lead acid batteries as readily as with the LiFePo which have only been online for six months now. Software and R&D pr
I have two EPEVER 40 amp MPPT solar charge controllers and no problems yet, but maybe after hearing about your problem, I should buy a backup controller, just in case. Thanks for the information.
First real problem for me with these controllers. Had a couple MT50' s fail, but never a controller. Mahalo for being part of the conversation here...aloha 🤙
How many volts are you using with your controllers @ArmanAllen ? I got some panels that are 48 volt so I can't run them in series. I think I am going to run them 3 or five in parallel. The amp are like 5.something. Also thanks for video uploaded.Also if I do that many it would be for 24 volt battery
@@abramturley2572 Hi, I usually run 2 - 200 watt panels that have an open voltage of around 23 volts each, in series for each controller. I have never run panels with as high of voltage as you are running. For 12 volt batteries, usually about 400 to 500 watts is max from these controllers, so I would say keep your wattage to no more than 800 to 1000 watts for one of these controllers on a 24 volt system. I try to never run my controllers at max output, so they will last longer.
The solar symbol on your mt50 only has 4 squares on it? Should it not have 6? Have you tried disconnect ting the solar from the Epever & reconnecting it again? I only have an older model of the Epever tracer to go on & that's been solid.
If you over load your controller by introducing more volts than it is rated for, you stand the chance of destroying it. Buying a Vitron will have the same failure if you over load it as wel. Check the mfg Voc per panel. Add the # of panels and total them up. Now check mfg Voc max limit on the controller. DON'T EXCEED THE LIMITS! BETTER TO BE 20v LESS THAN .5v OVER. When purchasing your controller make sure it can handle the combined voltage output of your panels. Good luck
I just encounter that problem today.. i thought that my panels are the problem, but after checking, my 4+ yesrs 20a tracer is the main culprit.. now I ordered another mppt controller from other brand..
I was having a very similar situation with one of my epever's. The problem turned out to be the trash, cheap red & black breakers. Once I eliminated that the problem went away.
I was running a bunch of EPEVER 40a's on different types/brands of panels. I found they would get stuck at low voltage when clouds would pass or from early morning startup. I tried many combos of panel strings with no luck or reliability. I would cover the panels, unplug and replug them in and it would work again. I also found they track REALLY SLOW. I ordered some victrons and they work 10x better. I'm getting more output too! The EPEVERS are not very good. I'm sending mine back. I would NOT recommend them.
The Epever was my first venture into MPPT controllers. Even before I had any Victrons set up I noticed the same thing...very slow tracking. No comparison at all matched against Victron. That's what's gojng to be replacing this, no doubt. Thanks for sharing your experience...it helps! aloha 🤙
@@ProjectsinParadise808 Same here, I did not know what a good tracking speed is. After using Victron controllers, I see how bad the EPEVER's are. I went EPEVER after reading some good reviews and recommendations. I really liked the large heat sinks and remote display but they need to develop their product more. I'm getting way more energy from the Victrons.
I have been using one for a while now but mine is the full aluminum one that accepts 150 volts,it gets supper hot so I put a computer fan to cool it with a temp switch it has no screen only the mt50 .. tracer4215BN .. it's a bit more expensive than that plastic one...
Recently I have experience similar problem with my outback ( 60 amps) and first i blame my new liFePO4 batteries but the real cause was a faulty DC battery switch.
Hi, One suggestion , if you have a DC ajustable power suply, you can input it, to check if you can wake up the MPPT section. As another sub wrote, you may had a Voc>100V.... and the charger is stucked into this error... Can you can check the log errors ? At least with the PC software it's possible. I completly monitor/control my Tracer 60A/250V with Home Assistant OS.... I can see all type of error like this. Sorry for my poor english :)
I'm no expert, but didn't it just fry. I think this series of controller accepts max.100V Voc and you connected 5 Newpowa 100 W panels in series at about 20 Voc each. Or does it accept 150?
Controller is 100v, panels 18.8v , so close indeed, but never saw any values challenging the controller one time in every kind of weather. Thank you for your thoughts on this, for sure! aloha 🤙
Sorry you are having trouble Bob but you have it tracked down which is good, Victron seems to be the way to go .........I got me the 100/50 and it is the way to go,
Had a similar issue with mine but mine was locked on night mode. I did all the factory reset reached out to manufacturer with little help. Replaced it with a victron. The day I installed the victron I hooked up the epever just for kicks and it worked go figure.
Going cheap on your MPPT is a huge mistake--kinda cringe when I see you install gear like that. Do you want a good deal on an outback FM60 or FM80 that's already on island? I want to order a Victron MPPT also.
I am surprised that you can get 80v. I am just learning. I just got a Big Expensive surprise on cable size. Hopefully this next week I will bring my system online 🙏.
Mine operates at 15.7v under load and should be at 80+ volts. It actually charges at about 3ish amps When it gets to full charge then the volts go to 80+. Junk I bought that BougeRV 40 amp yellow. I probably should've bought a Victron but at least this one has a warranty and built in Bluetooth. I got my epever from Amazon(Y-Solar) November 3 last year.
Yeah, this was my first failure with these, although I was noticing some real fluctuations in voltage campared to the other one. I dunno what happened. aloha 🤙
This is a very common problem with the EPEVERS, they get stuck at low voltage when a cloud comes by or first light. They never track out of the low voltage.
Epever charge controllers "talk" to each other when wired in parallel. Without seeing the rest of your wall wiring, I am assuming that you have both Epevers connected to a power bar which combine at the bar and a single wire leading to your batteries. This is battery bank protection to prevent charge overload to slamming so much power into your batteries. When I have strong sun with lots of volts and amps, usually one of my Epevers will drop to zero or near zero especially once the batteries go into float charge. If the day is weak on sun, then both work collectively usually working together to balance their charging collection.
Aloha from upper puna I would try again disconnecting the Solar panel wires from the controller wait awhile then reconnect. I'm having a similar problem with my 15 dollar charge controller
Oh no, Epever is loosing their good reputation. The older models were the best in their budget class. But the new model fails in just a year. That's dumb of Epever.
I was unaware of this issue until I started looking. As often as I've seen this exact same experience from other's, they must be aware of it yeah? aloha 🤙
4 of my controller are 4 years old and no problem powmr 60amp wen I got the i paid $70 now they cost $ 120 because I got 2 more 3 months ago now I have 6 charge controller
Hello! I follow your videos with interest and I would like you to help me with some advice! I have a solar photovoltaic system installed in the garage, consisting of the following components: 2 THOR brand photovoltaic panels of 200 watts each, monocrystalline, both having the same specifications: vpm=18v, Imp=10.69A, voc=21.8v; - one panel is mounted, put into operation and the second one, being recently purchased, is to be connected. 1 mppt solar regulator/controller brand EPEVER of 20A model TRACER2210AN; 1 solar energy regulator, MT50; 1 12V-220V 300watt inverter with modified sine. 1 older VARTA car battery yes ok.. of 12V/74A. Could you please give me a hint (advice) in the sense that with this setup, I would like to charge my electric scooter (not the scooter) in the summer on sunny days, with 5 lead-acid batteries installed in series gel acid of 12 V x 5 = 60v with 20A. I mention that the scooter is charged at a 220V socket charger which has the same consumption 3A, charging the moped in approximately 5-6 hours. What else should I add to the setup above, mentioning that...unfortunately, the garage cannot be connected to the electrical network? Panel: Can the 2 panels, in order not to damage the regulator, be connected in series or in parallel? Battery: - Should I add another battery and connect it in series? Not needing to store a lot of current.. My claim is only to charge the scooter during the day on sunny days. The surplus, if it remains, should be stored in the same battery to ensure the lighting in the garage. Inverter: Is the owned 300 w with modified sine ok or do I need to purchase another one with higher power or with pure sine? Safe: I put a manual switch (fuse) from the solar panel to the 20A controller on terminal+... does it require a stronger fuse? I also attached an MC4 type bypass diode to the main red wire. Does the setup require anything extra?
Just read one of the comments in here that said it is a max pv input of 100v and each of your panels are 18.8v times 5 so that puts you really close to the max pv input. Now if it rained or cooled down real quick then your pv voltage will spike above the max pv input on the controller. I have the one with a max pv input of 200v and was told to not go over 140v coming from my panels because of the spikes when you get a sudden change in weather or temperature outside on the panels. Even with only 140v of PV input I have seen my voltage spike to 165v when it started to rain. But then normalized after a couple of minutes. The spike could have caused your problem because you were already close to the max pv input anyway. And also keep in mind too that you have a max amperage input also. I was told this by a person from signature solar even though they don't sell epever products but I bought a growatt all in one system from them and they told me to leave some room for the voltage spikes when sudden temperature changes. He said at least 50v less than the max voltage. He told me that if it does spike over the max it will show an error but that it could also damage the mppt controller inside. So with every system that I set up I always stay at least 50v less than the max pv input listed for a particular unit no matter what brand it is. And amperage too. I hope this helps you with future installs. I would like to help as far as how to fix the epever that went bad on you but I don't do any electronic repairs inside. But like some of the other comments here, there may be a fuse blown inside. It couldn't hurt to take a look. Take care and good luck.
Você está totalmente certo.
O perigo da reatância capacitiva e indutiva dos painéis solares no momento do sobreamento repentino faz a tensão subir em 1.9 vezes a tensão do painel solar plenamente iluminado.
Exemplo
8x18voltes =96 voltes
96 voltes x1.9=
182.4 voltes !!!
Se o limite máximo do MPPT charger for 100 voltes=boommm, blow mosfets
eddietotherow4917... thank you for answering a critical piece of information that I have been looking into for our 48 volt off grid system. We have (12) QCell DUO L-G5.2 390 panels (VOC 48.48)/(VMP 40.38) that I am trying to pair with our Absolyte GX 48 v/2,000 Amp hour VRLA battery bank.
So sorry to hear about the failure. It was a good reminder for me too upgrade my back up charge controller.
I'm running my current model at 50% rated output, ( 40a/20a), in hopes to see ten years full time continuous duty.
* Ten years is probably a reasonable expectation of maximum time in service life - IMHO
🇳🇱✌️♥️👍
Mahalo for that! With all my redundancies, I was caught flat footed without a suitable cc to drop in...that will be corrected in a matter of days! aloha 🤙
@@ProjectsinParadise808 Yep- I realized that my original PWM cc is a terrible backup today, after evolving with series strings.
Sorry about your issue . I have the same one , only in a 20a model . Thanks for the heads up .
I also have a 20 amp, used for years, no problems either. Aloha 🤙
As an update: My Epever 4210AN has worked just fine after I took out a string of 40 foot wires leading to solar panels and I ultimately upgraded my panels and got rid of the old ones. I think there was a bad connection somewhere in the line or even the panels. Now I have 1600 watts of solar on top of my RV with two EPEVER's controlling 800 watts each. Oh and my Nissan leaf PARTIAL battery bank is awesome. EV batteries are much much better than any standard lithium or LifePo battery. My modules are of course used, cheap and work great!
I used to do a lot of low voltage high current DC troubleshooting.
You are fortunate to have two controllers next to each other. If you swap the cables from one controller to the other, or if not enough slack in the PV cables, just swap the controllers, then you will have isolated the problem component for absolutely sure.
If the same controller is still giving you a problem, I would suggest opening it up and checking the internal fuse. Don't trust the breaker, those black and red inexpensive breakers are known to not be reliable.
If the fuses have continuity, then I would check all the capacitors and also the mosfets that are held against the heat sink. Normally those components are what is wrong in controllers, and also inverters. They are very inexpensive to replace if you know how to solder. If not, then try to find a local electronics enthusiast who should be able to get you going lickety split.
I like your triple redundancy, just like NASA!
If you do decide to get a new more reliable controller, I would suggest at least looking at the rock solid
Mahalo for all that great information on troubleshooting the possible problem of the controller. I am going to check everything you suggested. I know people tgat are using the Outback, and Midnight solar controllers. Both are definitely very good. Appreciate the help! Aloha 🤙
@@ProjectsinParadise808 Isn't the Outback actually an Epever Tracer3215BN? Looks exactly the same
John - does having a solar combiner box make more sense to protect the the unit than the breakers? We are in the midst of design and building our 48 volt system/off grid and I will be installing a Solar Combiner Box prior to the Charge Controllers.
@@koborkutya7338 No, EPever is a Chinese company that builds pretty good stuff for good value even though they're from China.
From my discussions with the engineers in 2001, Outback started with engineers who used to work for Trace, became disgruntled with their policies, and started their own company "outback" from Trace.
I feel like both Outback and Midnight Solar are both the top quality equipment that you can find PERIOD. Although you will also be paying top dollar for it. Although I'm not too sure yet about the Midnight all-in-one hybrid inverter.
@@rongray4118 Typically a combiner box will have breakers inside of it. One breaker for each series string of panels in the array. There are code advantages to keeping the combiner box close to the array I believe it's 4 or 6 feet. These breakers protect the wiring between the panels and the charge controller. There should also be overcurrent protection between the charge controller and the battery, and also between the battery and the inverter.
From my understanding the square D brand QO breakers are rated for up to 48 V DC. That information isn't very easy to find, but apparently if you go digging you can find it. I am not talking about the Square D homeline version. Which is different from the QO version. The QO breakers and panels are all easily available at the big box hardware stores. I have a 6/12 space QO sub panel for a combiner box, There are also UA-cam videos on how to make an inexpensive combiner box.
Good luck! And congratulations for walking the walk. You will be so happy you did.
That sucks ! glad you have split into 2 banks . 50% is not 0 . gives you time to replace.. Think about getting that ground rod in better and some surge protection on your system. Midnight solar has them for panel input to controller. even a hard rain can make a charge that can hard comptroller . I have 5 controllers total on 3 battery banks. just for the house. They all Moring star type. .some 15 years old. never had 1 fail yet. looking forward to up date on this. 🙁☀
Yeah, 50% is not dead in the water! And other than when I took a direct hit on house with lightning, this my first outright failure. Btw...I've had two direct hits on house in 30 year's, so I'm taking to heart what you say, and have those midnight products on list. Hoping for an update on this in about 10 day's....sooner if I get lucky enough to fix it through more troubleshooting. But me thinks it's dead as doornail! aloha 🤙
Would love to see your set up! That is where my wife and I want to end up - fifteen years free of headaches! After having a heart attack and 4 stents installed last year... I don't want to drop dead and leave her in a lurch not knowing how the system works on top of the mountain.
Ohhh, darn. Well going Victron is a safe bet, and you remotely monitor your whole system. Good thing you have 2 controllers and not dead in the water. Cheers and hope some good steady sun heads your way the next few days to keep you charged up.
Cheers
You can't go wrong with Victron! Bummer about the epever, but it's a good reason to upgrade! Take care!
Love the Victron indeed! aloha 🤙
Just wanted to let you know that I did order my 2 chins 300 amp hour smart batteries using your link last week.
Mahalo for that! You're gonna love them..,guaranteed 😉🤙
I have the 100 amp mppt charge controller for a couple of years now and i hope this never happens to me they are not cheap cant wait to see what u get 🧐
I had this same problem. Solution was to turn off solar input then turn off batteries. Disconnect positive and negative cables from battery or 2 cables where battery is supplied from charge controller. Reverse procedure to reconnect. Hopefully it will work for you too.
Mahalo for sharing this information ! I will definitely try as you suggested before completely giving up. Plus, a replacement is many day's away! Aloha 🤙
It worked for me a couple times then it didn't. Hope yours holds up. When did you buy yours? I got mine from Amazon(Y-Solar) November 3, 2021.
My 40a was purchased from eBay 1/20.
Could be series voltage got too high, you could try parallel or remove a panel.
(+100v spike)~
I agree (disconnect and restart), my residential panels caused similar issues. Best wishes
Oh, btw, Andy @ off grid garage, had a failure w/victron (fyi)
I have the ep ever 30amp haven't had any issues with it so far. It actually seems to be working great. Good luck with your new stuff.
Mahalo for sharing this information with us...aloha 🤙
Sorry for your loss…Looking forward to the fix love the videos. Have fun stay safe.
The fix be on the way in days! aloha 🤙
no one died, so stop it
I had the exact same problem with the same 30a and 40a EPEVER model controller, with Lifepo4 batteries. The issue was the default lithium settings are way too high for the BMS of the batteries and triggers the controller to stop charging. You must use the USER option for battery setup, and lower all the voltages to no more than 14.2 for Boost. To get the controller back operating, you must disconnect the panels, then the battery for 10 minutes or so to reset it, then with battery connected, change over to user and lower the voltages as mentioned. I used 14.2 for boost, and 14.5 for max disconnect and the unit has been functioning. I also lowered the Boost time to 90 minutes with my 300ah battery bank. The EPEVER is not compatible with the Lifepo4 battery BMS turning off for full or over voltage and that's the problem. I will never buy another EPEVER unit.
Update to my previous post!! I have figured out these EPEVER AN and Triron controller parameters. These units function fine, just the default settings are not intuitive for the average Lithium battery setup. When they stop charging during the day, even when the batteries are not full is because a dead space is created between Boost and Float, when those settings are different in the parameter settings. I.E., if you have boost at 14.4 and Float at 13.8, charging will stop once the charge duration for boost is set, and not return until voltage drops below 13.7. Resetting the controller unit will just repeat this process. In addition, the default 14.6 boost setting can easily trigger the battery BMS protection, which can further cause the system to stop charging. My OPINION is you should not set the EPEVER anywhere near the upper charge/boost limit, and then the boost and float value should match, and you will have continuous charging until that set point is reached. For example, if you want to maintain your LIFEPO4 battery at 95% SOC, you would set charge limit to 13.7, boost to 13.4 and float to 13.4. Yes, this is different from the recommendation of 14.2 to 14.6 for charge limit, but for efficiency and longevity, you don't want to daily take your batteries to 100% SOC. Also in multi battery setups, some BMS will trigger at +/_ 1.v differentials which will lead to that battery turning off, and the next battery will attempt to overcharge, triggering that BMS, while the Controller will turn off charging since no current will be flowing. For those that say they get a parameter error when trying to lower the values under user, you have to set them in the proper order, and even if you have 000 (zero) for equalization time, the value must lower than the charge limit setting. Example, to set charge limit to 13.9, you must set equalization to 13.9 or lower, even though you will not equalize and select 0-minutes for lithium. You can then adjust your charge limit and boost value lower than defaults. I hope this helps many, that are thinking their EPEVER Controllers are faulty with Lithium batteries. Now, Tracer should have done a better job with the setup, and or explanation of this process. They should have set the defaults at the lowest end of the scale versus the maximum.
I ended up doing much the same before switching them out with Victron charge controllers. For my system, I lowered the boost to 14.1 ultimately as 14.2 was still too high. Reduced the boost time to one hour. That worked pretty good, but compared to the Victrons....well no comparison. Victron outshines in every way. The Epevers have now been relegated to backup . Mahalo for sharing your information with us...aloha 🤙
The high-voltage cutout bug within Epever also fails out on lead acid batteries as readily as with the LiFePo which have only been online for six months now.
Software and R&D pr
I have two EPEVER 40 amp MPPT solar charge controllers and no problems yet, but maybe after hearing about your problem, I should buy a backup controller, just in case. Thanks for the information.
First real problem for me with these controllers. Had a couple MT50' s fail, but never a controller. Mahalo for being part of the conversation here...aloha 🤙
How many volts are you using with your controllers @ArmanAllen ? I got some panels that are 48 volt so I can't run them in series. I think I am going to run them 3 or five in parallel. The amp are like 5.something. Also thanks for video uploaded.Also if I do that many it would be for 24 volt battery
@@abramturley2572 Hi, I usually run 2 - 200 watt panels that have an open voltage of around 23 volts each, in series for each controller. I have never run panels with as high of voltage as you are running. For 12 volt batteries, usually about 400 to 500 watts is max from these controllers, so I would say keep your wattage to no more than 800 to 1000 watts for one of these controllers on a 24 volt system. I try to never run my controllers at max output, so they will last longer.
@@OUFan2
Alright good to know you have had good results running 400 watts on yours at 12 volts. I am looking forward to using my epever 40s.
I have 3/100 amp of the epever solar charge controller for about 2 years now with over 2000 watts of solar panels on each with no problem
Nice!🤙
I thought it's 400w max or 100v total open circuit pv voltage ?
The solar symbol on your mt50 only has 4 squares on it? Should it not have 6? Have you tried disconnect ting the solar from the Epever & reconnecting it again? I only have an older model of the Epever tracer to go on & that's been solid.
Always been solid for me as well. I've tried the disconnect/reconnect...to no avail. aloha 🤙
If you over load your controller by introducing more volts than it is rated for, you stand the chance of destroying it. Buying a Vitron will have the same failure if you over load it as wel.
Check the mfg Voc per panel. Add the # of panels and total them up.
Now check mfg Voc max limit on the controller. DON'T EXCEED THE LIMITS! BETTER TO BE 20v LESS THAN .5v OVER.
When purchasing your controller make sure it can handle the combined voltage output of your panels. Good luck
I just encounter that problem today.. i thought that my panels are the problem, but after checking, my 4+ yesrs 20a tracer is the main culprit.. now I ordered another mppt controller from other brand..
I was having a very similar situation with one of my epever's. The problem turned out to be the trash, cheap red & black breakers. Once I eliminated that the problem went away.
Good luck.
Mahalo!🤙
I had a similar problem. In my case I found that one of the EP was back-feeding into the other. So, I ordered a blocking diode and waiting for it
Would sure like to know how that works for you...drop a line back to us if you get results. Mahalo!🤙
I was running a bunch of EPEVER 40a's on different types/brands of panels. I found they would get stuck at low voltage when clouds would pass or from early morning startup. I tried many combos of panel strings with no luck or reliability. I would cover the panels, unplug and replug them in and it would work again. I also found they track REALLY SLOW. I ordered some victrons and they work 10x better. I'm getting more output too! The EPEVERS are not very good. I'm sending mine back. I would NOT recommend them.
The Epever was my first venture into MPPT controllers. Even before I had any Victrons set up I noticed the same thing...very slow tracking. No comparison at all matched against Victron. That's what's gojng to be replacing this, no doubt. Thanks for sharing your experience...it helps! aloha 🤙
@@ProjectsinParadise808 Same here, I did not know what a good tracking speed is. After using Victron controllers, I see how bad the EPEVER's are. I went EPEVER after reading some good reviews and recommendations. I really liked the large heat sinks and remote display but they need to develop their product more. I'm getting way more energy from the Victrons.
Also there are to 40 amp fuses inside you might want to check
That's great information. I'm going to pop it open tomorrow and look. 🤙
I have been using one for a while now but mine is the full aluminum one that accepts 150 volts,it gets supper hot so I put a computer fan to cool it with a temp switch it has no screen only the mt50 .. tracer4215BN .. it's a bit more expensive than that plastic one...
Thanks for sharing this information with us...aloha!🤙
There/s 2 automotive spade fuses inside have you checked them?
Haven't popped it open yet, but will pretty quick 🤙
Recently I have experience similar problem with my outback ( 60 amps) and first i blame my new liFePO4 batteries but the real cause was a faulty DC battery switch.
Making a follow up video today! aloha 🤙
Not a failure of equipment; failure of owner.
Hi, One suggestion , if you have a DC ajustable power suply, you can input it, to check if you can wake up the MPPT section. As another sub wrote, you may had a Voc>100V.... and the charger is stucked into this error... Can you can check the log errors ? At least with the PC software it's possible. I completly monitor/control my Tracer 60A/250V with Home Assistant OS.... I can see all type of error like this. Sorry for my poor english :)
I'm no expert, but didn't it just fry. I think this series of controller accepts max.100V Voc and you connected 5 Newpowa 100 W panels in series at about 20 Voc each.
Or does it accept 150?
Controller is 100v, panels 18.8v , so close indeed, but never saw any values challenging the controller one time in every kind of weather. Thank you for your thoughts on this, for sure! aloha 🤙
It would be interesting when plugged into the PC software, there are some logs associated with....
Sorry about your mppt problem, better stay with Victron you can't go wrong
Indeed! Aloha 🤙
I had two 100A that fail. I bought two Ipandee with WIFI (Cloud-Box -M2).
Nice! 🤙
I've had really good luck with my make sky blue 80 amp
🤙
Sorry you are having trouble Bob but you have it tracked down which is good, Victron seems to be the way to go .........I got me the 100/50 and it is the way to go,
That's exactly the controller I've got my eye on now. The 100/50 gives me room for even more expansion, which is great. Mahalo!🤙
Had a similar issue with mine but mine was locked on night mode. I did all the factory reset reached out to manufacturer with little help. Replaced it with a victron. The day I installed the victron I hooked up the epever just for kicks and it worked go figure.
That figures doesn't it!? I have a few day's to troubleshoot some more, but Victron is going up barring a miracle...Aloha 🤙
I have a 40amp renogy rover & that's done the same thing. Mine has proper voltage coming in but no current going in the batteries whatsoever.
Yeah that's unfortunate. First time I had one go bad . These things happen...best of luck, thanks for sharing 🤙
Going cheap on your MPPT is a huge mistake--kinda cringe when I see you install gear like that. Do you want a good deal on an outback FM60 or FM80 that's already on island? I want to order a Victron MPPT also.
What size are the panels?
100watt🤙
I am surprised that you can get 80v.
I am just learning.
I just got a Big Expensive surprise on cable size. Hopefully this next week I will bring my system online 🙏.
Mine operates at 15.7v under load and should be at 80+ volts. It actually charges at about 3ish amps When it gets to full charge then the volts go to 80+. Junk I bought that BougeRV 40 amp yellow. I probably should've bought a Victron but at least this one has a warranty and built in Bluetooth. I got my epever from Amazon(Y-Solar) November 3 last year.
Yeah, this was my first failure with these, although I was noticing some real fluctuations in voltage campared to the other one. I dunno what happened. aloha 🤙
This is a very common problem with the EPEVERS, they get stuck at low voltage when a cloud comes by or first light. They never track out of the low voltage.
Morningstar, Victron, Midnite Solar Tier1 only for me from now on.
Copy that brother! 🤙
Test your mosfets summer blowing or the fuse.
Epever charge controllers "talk" to each other when wired in parallel. Without seeing the rest of your wall wiring, I am assuming that you have both Epevers connected to a power bar which combine at the bar and a single wire leading to your batteries. This is battery bank protection to prevent charge overload to slamming so much power into your batteries. When I have strong sun with lots of volts and amps, usually one of my Epevers will drop to zero or near zero especially once the batteries go into float charge. If the day is weak on sun, then both work collectively usually working together to balance their charging collection.
I never knew that about the Epever controllers...mahalo for sharing that with us...aloha 🤙
I've noticed the same. One epever working, the other having a break, when batteries are charged up, yet sharing the load when charging them up.
maybe a protective diode or a fuse inside the epever on the solar input is bad.
well that sucks
🤙
Aloha from upper puna I would try again disconnecting the Solar panel wires from the controller wait awhile then reconnect. I'm having a similar problem with my 15 dollar charge controller
Mahalo for the recommendation! Ill be try as many of you suggest to troubleshoot further! aloha 🤙
cover the panels first since there would be a big DC arch that can cause damage from the loaded panels. Never plug or unplug loaded solar panels.
40 amps is not much play room for error in solar units. 😂
Oh no, Epever is loosing their good reputation. The older models were the best in their budget class. But the new model fails in just a year. That's dumb of Epever.
I was unaware of this issue until I started looking. As often as I've seen this exact same experience from other's, they must be aware of it yeah? aloha 🤙
50A MC2450N10 SRNE MPPT Solar Charge Controller $92
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you overpowered it.
victron energy or Midnight solar kid whould also be nice or classic
Yes sir I know other's running those. aloha 🤙
4 of my controller are 4 years old and no problem powmr 60amp wen I got the i paid $70 now they cost $ 120 because I got 2 more 3 months ago now I have 6 charge controller
First time I had any problem with these. 🤙
@@ProjectsinParadise808 I have seen him and you to catch fire those Epever
Hello!
I follow your videos with interest and I would like you to help me with some advice!
I have a solar photovoltaic system installed in the garage, consisting of the following components:
2 THOR brand photovoltaic panels of 200 watts each, monocrystalline, both having the same specifications: vpm=18v, Imp=10.69A, voc=21.8v;
- one panel is mounted, put into operation and the second one, being recently purchased, is to be connected.
1 mppt solar regulator/controller brand EPEVER of 20A model TRACER2210AN;
1 solar energy regulator, MT50;
1 12V-220V 300watt inverter with modified sine.
1 older VARTA car battery yes ok.. of 12V/74A.
Could you please give me a hint (advice) in the sense that with this setup, I would like to charge my electric scooter (not the scooter) in the summer on sunny days, with 5 lead-acid batteries installed in series gel acid of 12 V x 5 = 60v with 20A.
I mention that the scooter is charged at a 220V socket charger which has the same consumption
3A, charging the moped in approximately 5-6 hours.
What else should I add to the setup above, mentioning that...unfortunately, the garage cannot be connected to the electrical network?
Panel:
Can the 2 panels, in order not to damage the regulator, be connected in series or in parallel?
Battery:
- Should I add another battery and connect it in series? Not needing to store a lot of current.. My claim is only to charge the scooter during the day on sunny days. The surplus, if it remains, should be stored in the same battery to ensure the lighting in the garage.
Inverter:
Is the owned 300 w with modified sine ok or do I need to purchase another one with higher power or with pure sine?
Safe:
I put a manual switch (fuse) from the solar panel to the 20A controller on terminal+... does it require a stronger fuse?
I also attached an MC4 type bypass diode to the main red wire.
Does the setup require anything extra?
You should just switch Victron one
That's the plan, although I'm going to try a few other suggestions as they come in since It's days away for a replacement. aloha 🤙
😳
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Realize you know this already... but just use Victron.
Copy that!🤙
Victron. there is no substitute
You got that right! aloha 🤙
Yes there are :) Studer :)
My 100 amp doing same thing
turned out was a panel🤙
Turned into an EV never
Haha...yeah!🤙
Doesn't say tracer
Its a knock off fake
Ein sinnloses Video!🤦♂️👎🏻