its because they are great quality with far more features and power than the cheaper ones. in my opinion there is only 2 real contenders for my van power, Renogy or Victron, I started with Renogy so I carried on with it through the whole of my electric build, I am very impressed with the build quality, the plug and play side of it all, the easy to follow instructions, the power production, the ease of use, with either apps or panels it's easy to see what your electronics are doing.
@@ironian24 ; Thank you. At the moment my go-to for solar power devices is Demuda, which is popular in the EU, UK, and elsewhere; I do not know why Demuda is not popular in the USA.
Thanks, now I understand my controller, Thought I'd need my son's help but you explained so well, I'm going to be bragging bout how simple it is. Awesome Thanks for sharing ! Blessings🙏😎
I think 40 A with a run of 20 feet you’re gonna want four gauge cable and that’s not gonna fit in those terminals nicely I’m trying to figure this out.
Don't mount the box until you have looked at how the terminals work. I got confused was turning the screw left almost busted out the plastic. I didn't look up under there and turn it see how it worked. There is a metal tab that screws up grabs the wire. I receemoned if you can screw all the wires in first while its flat before you mount it on the wall.
Awesome video, I am new to solar, so I purchased the package deal panels, controllers everything but the battery and inverter from Renogy, I was able to figure it out on the fly except for the controller controls. Awesome video in explaining how the controls work. Thank you!!!
Trying to decide if I should hook my 3, 100watt panels in parallel when using a renogy rover charge controller. I am in an area with intermittent shade. I ran it on two panels in series last year and did not get enough stored energy to run appliances on cloudy days. Awesome explanations!
That was a good video. The book that the charge controller comes with is almost useless. And I have three 60 amp charge controllers the same brand so I am familiar with them
do you need breakers or fuses from the solar panels and to the battery? or is there an internal fuse on this unit? I just installed mine with no fuses because i thought there was an internal fuse, I have 2x 200 watt panels going through the 40amp mppt unit then to the 200amh lithium ion battery, all renogy.
So if I plug in a iCeco 20 frig is that considered a heavy load? I'm not understanding "a load"? Did I see u plug some socks into your load? R they USB sockets or outlets? Thank u for all the details explanation.👍🏾 I don't hv much knowledge about controllers.
on the home screen what should the battery voltage read and what mode tells you the solar panel is charging the battery and how much, i am new to this stuff, also if using two deep cycle batteries in parellel should you charge them both before using
Brilliantly explained but me being dumb would like a confirmation of which battery setting would my leisure be set at lead acid sealed ,would that be as explained under the 9
Can you install this in the storage compartment in the front area of a travel trailer? It would be located in storage under queen bed in front of trailer. I was concerned about ventilation, but it seems people are putting them in cargo areas.
Do you know what happens to the controller if the battery power is lost do to the battery shutting down or disconnected unexpectedly ? If this needs to be powered first from the battery.
I have 4 x 100 watt, 6 lead acid deep cycle batteries less than 6 months old. I am using the Rover controller and I can never get the charge more than 65% full sun in Texas. Whan can I be doing wrong?
When using lithium-ion 12V battery and using the control button(s) on the controller to select 'Lithium' as the battery type, does the controller know everything else it is required to know for using a lithium-ion battery? Or is there additional programming required for the controller to work properly with a lithium-ion battery? For example, Will Prowse mentions in one of his many UA-cam videos about DIY solar set-ups, that he favors the EPEVER Tracer MPPT solar charge controller, but mentions it is too complicated to program it when using a lithium-ion battery instead of a lead acid battery. Does this Renogy MPPT 40A solar charge controller have similar excess programming complexity as the EPEVER Tracer 40A MPPT solar charge controller when using a lithium-ion battery instead of a lead acid battery? When using more than one lead acid battery connected to the same MPPT solar charge controller, is more than one battery temperature sensor needed to monitor the temperature of all the batteries? Please explain what the 40A (40 Amps of current) rating of this Renogy MPPT solar charge controller refers to. For example, does it refer to the maximum number of amps it is able to control coming from the solar panel(s)? The EPEVER Tracer4215BN MPPT controller is a 40A solar charge controller and has a maximum discharge current (the discharge current to the load) of 20A, not 40A. What is the maximum discharge current of the Renogy 40A MPPT solar charge controller? 20 amps? 30 amps? Please explain what the term 'maximum discharge current' is. For example, is it the maximum number of amps (maximum amount of current) it will allow the solar powered devices to pull from the controller and / or battery? Please explain. I ask these questions for the following reason(s): I want to build a direct current 12V portable outdoor solar powered swamp cooler using two 12V, 120W, 10A automotive radiator fans wired to one or two 20A motor speed controllers (potentiometers). A person told me I need to allow for momentary surge of excess current (momentary amp surge) each time the two 12V, 120W, 10A automotive radiator fan motors power-on; however, I am wondering how much of an amp surge the fan motors will momentarily pull on the MPPT charge controller, and whether or not one or two 20A motor speed controllers wired to each fan motor will help prevent the amp surge on power-up of the two fans. The submersible water pump will be 12V, 20W, 2A, and will be wired to a toggle switch to turn on & off. I will be using four 12V, 100W, 7A portable briefcase solar panels connected in parallel which will provide 400 watts, 28 amps at 12 volts to whatever MPPT solar charge controller I end up choosing to use. I want to start out using 12V sealed lead acid batteries, and eventually switch to lithium-ion 12V batteries. For this reason, I have decided not to choose the EPEVER Tracer brand MPPT solar charge controller because it is purportedly too complicated to program when using one or more lithium-ion battery. I presume I need to choose a 40A MPPT controller instead of a 30A MPPT charge controller, but perhaps a 40A MPPT charge controller is not enough amps either for my swamp cooler. Do I need a 60A MPPT charge controller? What's your opinion? I invite anyone to leave a reply to my questions. Thank you.
Do you know the max amp draw from the dc load? Mine trips and I’m trying to pull peak 10 amps which I don’t think is that high for DC, so yeah low draws on the load out side. Great video just wish the lighting was better. Thanks for the video
I have one question. I recently installed my Renogy Rover 40A, I was wondering if there is any setting/switch to Run/Stop solar charging? or is my only option to install a kill switch in between controller and the battery? (No load plugged in)
i hope you didnt use a switch between the battery and controller that will likely fry the controller at some point. you want the switch between the panels and the controller, if you want to stop charging.
hai. I have a question. I already installed renogy Rover 40amp MPPT to my RV with 12V GEL battery. the problem is. my charger wont charge my battery even though my battery is under voltage. what caused?
Hi I have the same Renogy controller and getting ready to install it with my inverter. Very informative video and learned more about my controller so I know whats going on. One question though, I bought one lead acid battery and was told to watch it not go below 1/2 charge. I believe the controller has the ability to tell me on teh screen if its at a certain charge level or bars or do I need to buy a separate battery monitor, would not be a bad idea to buy one when I have more money though.
With all the technology we have in the world, we still have cryptic codes to tell us what's going on? Why not just have a display that can give you the message of the error rather than a code?
Hey bud, I’ve watched this video 3 times as I installed my rover 40 amp and I just can’t figure out why it’s always on night mode as I purchased it new and am getting 20.4 V from my panels and it’s even reading 20.4 V when I touch my meter to the panel jacks on the left hand side right next to the battery temp sensor so I know the rover is getting the juice from the solar panels but for some dam reason it won’t change my batteries because it’s always showing the little moon icon on the top left of the screen and it’s 77 degrees out without a cloud in the sky and not a single square inch of shade on either of my 8 panels as this will work on 800 watts as long as you run the batteries at 24 V in series. Do you have any ideas as to what the heck is going on or how to maybe reset the controller to factory or hell I don’t know anything? Thanks so much 🙏🙏🙏
I am trying to get this same model to recognize my 24v system, with two lithium batteries wired in series. I will not allow my to boost the settings for 24v. Any help?
Yes,,, I'm actually doing a video that will release soon showing how to setup this charge controller... feel free to email me if you don't want to wait until next week... jiujitsu2000@yahoo.com
@@jiujitsu2000 Thanks! What it seems like now is that you have to take the settings from the battery manufacturer and divide them in half, then you change the battery type to LI and the voltage to 24 on the controllers. Renogy says this is because "sometimes" the charger controller does not recognize the 24v bank. After trying this yesterday it seemed to work, as I stopped getting low voltage errors and both batteries charged together.
Can you further explain the "Boost" & "Optimization" mode, please? Thanks for the info, you really helped me understand my charge controller. Christina & The Animal Love Fest :)
Can you show how it changes when you put loads on the batteries? My battery screen shows 100% all the time but when we plug something in, the discharge A and AH stay 0 but our battery capacity jumps around between 50% and 100% it makes no sense
Is your load going through the charge controller, or is it going through an inverter? To display load information, it has to be from the load output on the controller. However, it can't handle a heavy load.
trying to learn how to clear the low battery error after pulling the charge down to 10.5 momentarily. The charge came right back but still showing the low battery error so do I need a reset by disconnecting the solar and...?? Anyone? Thanks. I have a 30 amp with 400 watts of solar and it works fine.
These systems have developed a long term fault they show a E3 code and stop loads over 2 amps going through the load side but reneogy will not replace the system with this fault
I just opened my new Renogy Rover 40 MPPT and it is a piece of CRAP!!! THE INPUT ACCESS POINTS ARE COMPLETELY FREE FLOATING INSIDE THE UNIT AND MAKE IT IMPOSSIBLE TO MOUNT YOUR WIRES! Removing the cover to explore the issue reveals a series of input mounts that are literally loose inside and magnetized and repelling each other laying loose in the shroud. They do not stay put to allow cable mounting. What were they thinking? Did someone on the assembly line get pissed off and just throw the parts inside and close the box up? Almost $200 down the drain!
This is one of the worst interfaces. So confusing when they show a tiny battery icon as if you can tell the difference. You have a massive screen that's mostly blank. I don't get it.
Finally someone that can explain this unit in layman terms.
Thanks.
Thank you. I do not understand why people spend more for Renogy when similar chargers cost less.
its because they are great quality with far more features and power than the cheaper ones. in my opinion there is only 2 real contenders for my van power, Renogy or Victron, I started with Renogy so I carried on with it through the whole of my electric build, I am very impressed with the build quality, the plug and play side of it all, the easy to follow instructions, the power production, the ease of use, with either apps or panels it's easy to see what your electronics are doing.
@@ironian24 ; Thank you. At the moment my go-to for solar power devices is Demuda, which is popular in the EU, UK, and elsewhere; I do not know why Demuda is not popular in the USA.
My everything is RENOGY❤️
It is a clone of the SRNE unit.
Thanks, now I understand my controller, Thought I'd need my son's help but you explained so well, I'm going to be bragging bout how simple it is. Awesome Thanks for sharing ! Blessings🙏😎
I think 40 A with a run of 20 feet you’re gonna want four gauge cable and that’s not gonna fit in those terminals nicely I’m trying to figure this out.
WoW! Thank you so much! I wrote everything down and saved the video. Excellent job! Now I don't feel over whelmed.
Don't mount the box until you have looked at how the terminals work. I got confused was turning the screw left almost busted out the plastic. I didn't look up under there and turn it see how it worked. There is a metal tab that screws up grabs the wire. I receemoned if you can screw all the wires in first while its flat before you mount it on the wall.
Ybor 7u r
Awesome video, I am new to solar, so I purchased the package deal panels, controllers everything but the battery and inverter from Renogy, I was able to figure it out on the fly except for the controller controls. Awesome video in explaining how the controls work. Thank you!!!
Thank you!
Skip to 5:15 - no need to learn how to unbox and mount... Lots of great info for those that want it, but much repetition though
I just got the Rich Solar 20amp controller and its working well for me. Nice video, thanks and greetings from sunny Jamaica.
If you use green painters tape on the mounts, you can draw it in so you don’t have to measure and use that as a template
Trying to decide if I should hook my 3, 100watt panels in parallel when using a renogy rover charge controller. I am in an area with intermittent shade. I ran it on two panels in series last year and did not get enough stored energy to run appliances on cloudy days. Awesome explanations!
Parallel if you think shade is likely. You have more wire loss, but not a shutdown as with series.
thank u sooooooooooooooo much for doing this video sir! may GOD bless you and your family, amen
THANK YOU! I had the wrong battery type since I got it!
Thank you!
New subbie. Very helpful video. I'm using the Renogy Rover Li 40. Thank you. 👍
That was a good video. The book that the charge controller comes with is almost useless. And I have three 60 amp charge controllers the same brand so I am familiar with them
I'm volunteering at the polls today my friend
Excellent!
If voting mattered, the Money Power wouldn't let you do it. ;-)
Yes my friends
@ 14:40 fast white flashing led for FLA flooded or SLA / AGM sealed lead acid - this is an equalization cycle done once a month.
Thank you for your instruction.
I have the same controller. Can't understand why there isn't a backlight display on the screen. Crazy.
I prefer no backlight because it is annoying otherwise as I have my controller on show over bed area so wouldn't be able sleep in my tiny camper lol
I thought you explained that all very well.
Hi from Syracuse NY
Hello there!
Excellent, and thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent info Skeet. That thing is smarter than me. Lol
Thank you brotha! It's smarter than me too... lol I'm going to do another video similar to this one. I didn't like how dark it looked.
Great video!! Exactly what I was looking for!! Thank you!!
do you need breakers or fuses from the solar panels and to the battery? or is there an internal fuse on this unit? I just installed mine with no fuses because i thought there was an internal fuse, I have 2x 200 watt panels going through the 40amp mppt unit then to the 200amh lithium ion battery, all renogy.
Happy birthday brother
Thank you brotha! Blessings!!!
Is there a reason when i set it to the 24v that it does stay charging arlt 24v?
So if I plug in a iCeco 20 frig is that considered a heavy load? I'm not understanding "a load"? Did I see u plug some socks into your load? R they USB sockets or outlets?
Thank u for all the details explanation.👍🏾 I don't hv much knowledge about controllers.
Thank you very informative
on the home screen what should the battery voltage read and what mode tells you the solar panel is charging the battery and how much, i am new to this stuff, also if using two deep cycle batteries in parellel should you charge them both before using
My controller is not reading the solar panel. Trying to figure out how to trouble shoot. Checked plugs all connected
Fuse?
@@jiujitsu2000 I ended up replacing with a new charge controller just now and working like a charm.
@@HammVan did you figure out what was wrong with charge controller?
Hi, great video, i understand that rover 40a have a maximum 100v pv input, but how many amps in the input? Thanks
Good review buddy see ya on the next one
Excellent help. Thanks
Brilliantly explained but me being dumb would like a confirmation of which battery setting would my leisure be set at lead acid sealed ,would that be as explained under the 9
Can you install this in the storage compartment in the front area of a travel trailer? It would be located in storage under queen bed in front of trailer. I was concerned about ventilation, but it seems people are putting them in cargo areas.
Absolutely!
@@jiujitsu2000 Thank you. That works better for me.
What setting is used for deep cycle pure calcium lead alloy 12 v batteries?
Manual says load outlet's current is 20A. So 20A at 12V = 240 watts. Like your car's cigarette lighter/outlet, right?
I need to confirm that as well, hopefully someone replies.
yes. its not designed to power anything larger.
Do you know what happens to the controller if the battery power is lost do to the battery shutting down or disconnected unexpectedly ? If this needs to be powered first from the battery.
I have 4 x 100 watt, 6 lead acid deep cycle batteries less than 6 months old. I am using the Rover controller and I can never get the charge more than 65% full sun in Texas. Whan can I be doing wrong?
I read your other comment too. It depends on how your panels and batteries are wired.
When using lithium-ion 12V battery and using the control button(s) on the controller to select 'Lithium' as the battery type, does the controller know everything else it is required to know for using a lithium-ion battery? Or is there additional programming required for the controller to work properly with a lithium-ion battery? For example, Will Prowse mentions in one of his many UA-cam videos about DIY solar set-ups, that he favors the EPEVER Tracer MPPT solar charge controller, but mentions it is too complicated to program it when using a lithium-ion battery instead of a lead acid battery. Does this Renogy MPPT 40A solar charge controller have similar excess programming complexity as the EPEVER Tracer 40A MPPT solar charge controller when using a lithium-ion battery instead of a lead acid battery? When using more than one lead acid battery connected to the same MPPT solar charge controller, is more than one battery temperature sensor needed to monitor the temperature of all the batteries? Please explain what the 40A (40 Amps of current) rating of this Renogy MPPT solar charge controller refers to. For example, does it refer to the maximum number of amps it is able to control coming from the solar panel(s)? The EPEVER Tracer4215BN MPPT controller is a 40A solar charge controller and has a maximum discharge current (the discharge current to the load) of 20A, not 40A. What is the maximum discharge current of the Renogy 40A MPPT solar charge controller? 20 amps? 30 amps? Please explain what the term 'maximum discharge current' is. For example, is it the maximum number of amps (maximum amount of current) it will allow the solar powered devices to pull from the controller and / or battery? Please explain. I ask these questions for the following reason(s): I want to build a direct current 12V portable outdoor solar powered swamp cooler using two 12V, 120W, 10A automotive radiator fans wired to one or two 20A motor speed controllers (potentiometers). A person told me I need to allow for momentary surge of excess current (momentary amp surge) each time the two 12V, 120W, 10A automotive radiator fan motors power-on; however, I am wondering how much of an amp surge the fan motors will momentarily pull on the MPPT charge controller, and whether or not one or two 20A motor speed controllers wired to each fan motor will help prevent the amp surge on power-up of the two fans. The submersible water pump will be 12V, 20W, 2A, and will be wired to a toggle switch to turn on & off. I will be using four 12V, 100W, 7A portable briefcase solar panels connected in parallel which will provide 400 watts, 28 amps at 12 volts to whatever MPPT solar charge controller I end up choosing to use. I want to start out using 12V sealed lead acid batteries, and eventually switch to lithium-ion 12V batteries. For this reason, I have decided not to choose the EPEVER Tracer brand MPPT solar charge controller because it is purportedly too complicated to program when using one or more lithium-ion battery. I presume I need to choose a 40A MPPT controller instead of a 30A MPPT charge controller, but perhaps a 40A MPPT charge controller is not enough amps either for my swamp cooler. Do I need a 60A MPPT charge controller? What's your opinion? I invite anyone to leave a reply to my questions. Thank you.
Do you know the max amp draw from the dc load? Mine trips and I’m trying to pull peak 10 amps which I don’t think is that high for DC, so yeah low draws on the load out side.
Great video just wish the lighting was better. Thanks for the video
hi, to main questions, unit have backlight? how reset? thanks.
TY
I have one question. I recently installed my Renogy Rover 40A, I was wondering if there is any setting/switch to Run/Stop solar charging? or is my only option to install a kill switch in between controller and the battery? (No load plugged in)
Switch
i hope you didnt use a switch between the battery and controller that will likely fry the controller at some point. you want the switch between the panels and the controller, if you want to stop charging.
@@jessefabbro2158 oh shoot. I used between the battery and the charger. thanks for the warning. will chage it.
hai. I have a question. I already installed renogy Rover 40amp MPPT to my RV with 12V GEL battery. the problem is. my charger wont charge my battery even though my battery is under voltage. what caused?
What are the limitations to the "load" connections on the bottom right as to volts or amps?
No heavy amp draw loads. Light duty stuff like led lights, fan etc...
From what I’ve read, it’s has a max of 20amps. If you have 12v battery then it’ll have a 240 watt max.
What is the equation to figure size Amp hour battery needed to supply a 5ooo but ac for 8hr run time.
Easy it's called a Generator
Hi I have the same Renogy controller and getting ready to install it with my inverter. Very informative video and learned more about my controller so I know whats going on. One question though, I bought one lead acid battery and was told to watch it not go below 1/2 charge. I believe the controller has the ability to tell me on teh screen if its at a certain charge level or bars or do I need to buy a separate battery monitor, would not be a bad idea to buy one when I have more money though.
With all the technology we have in the world, we still have cryptic codes to tell us what's going on? Why not just have a display that can give you the message of the error rather than a code?
True! The price may be higher?
Hey bud, I’ve watched this video 3 times as I installed my rover 40 amp and I just can’t figure out why it’s always on night mode as I purchased it new and am getting 20.4 V from my panels and it’s even reading 20.4 V when I touch my meter to the panel jacks on the left hand side right next to the battery temp sensor so I know the rover is getting the juice from the solar panels but for some dam reason it won’t change my batteries because it’s always showing the little moon icon on the top left of the screen and it’s 77 degrees out without a cloud in the sky and not a single square inch of shade on either of my 8 panels as this will work on 800 watts as long as you run the batteries at 24 V in series. Do you have any ideas as to what the heck is going on or how to maybe reset the controller to factory or hell I don’t know anything?
Thanks so much 🙏🙏🙏
I am trying to get this same model to recognize my 24v system, with two lithium batteries wired in series. I will not allow my to boost the settings for 24v. Any help?
Yes,,, I'm actually doing a video that will release soon showing how to setup this charge controller... feel free to email me if you don't want to wait until next week... jiujitsu2000@yahoo.com
@@jiujitsu2000 Thanks! What it seems like now is that you have to take the settings from the battery manufacturer and divide them in half, then you change the battery type to LI and the voltage to 24 on the controllers. Renogy says this is because "sometimes" the charger controller does not recognize the 24v bank. After trying this yesterday it seemed to work, as I stopped getting low voltage errors and both batteries charged together.
Can you further explain the "Boost" & "Optimization" mode, please? Thanks for the info, you really helped me understand my charge controller. Christina & The Animal Love Fest :)
Can you set a limit to charge the batteries to only 85% and then cut off the charging?
Can you do this video again, but with the lights on?
Does Li battery type include LiFePO4?
Will it let you set the parameters on a lipo battery.
Can you show how it changes when you put loads on the batteries? My battery screen shows 100% all the time but when we plug something in, the discharge A and AH stay 0 but our battery capacity jumps around between 50% and 100% it makes no sense
Is your load going through the charge controller, or is it going through an inverter?
To display load information, it has to be from the load output on the controller. However, it can't handle a heavy load.
Can I connect a 12v power source into the solar panel input to charge my battery at night?
I'm guessing in the load connections you could wire something up. I'm curious as to what the limitations of those connections are as well.
Great video thanks 👍
What is max PV voltage?
my pv input voltage shows 15.5 volts but if i disconnect the controller the pv voltage is 20.6 volts Why?
How about posting a written version of the video
Can im put 90 VoC on this controler or not ok
trying to learn how to clear the low battery error after pulling the charge down to 10.5 momentarily. The charge came right back but still showing the low battery error so do I need a reset by disconnecting the solar and...?? Anyone? Thanks. I have a 30 amp with 400 watts of solar and it works fine.
I just buy one 40 amps from amazon is showing code E3, not Tec support, I will return and get victron before my 30 days return window expire.
last comment....4 x 100 watt panels
How much was that controller?
These systems have developed a long term fault they show a E3 code and stop loads over 2 amps going through the load side but reneogy will not replace the system with this fault
Video is too dark, can’t see it very well
True, thank you. I'll make a better version in the future
I just opened my new Renogy Rover 40 MPPT and it is a piece of CRAP!!! THE INPUT ACCESS POINTS ARE COMPLETELY FREE FLOATING INSIDE THE UNIT AND MAKE IT IMPOSSIBLE TO MOUNT YOUR WIRES! Removing the cover to explore the issue reveals a series of input mounts that are literally loose inside and magnetized and repelling each other laying loose in the shroud. They do not stay put to allow cable mounting. What were they thinking? Did someone on the assembly line get pissed off and just throw the parts inside and close the box up? Almost $200 down the drain!
If you're gonna make a video...turn lights on so we can see...everything is dark and barely visible
put a light on screen , hard to see
2:39 RS232 is a serial port
Thank you!
This is one of the worst interfaces. So confusing when they show a tiny battery icon as if you can tell the difference. You have a massive screen that's mostly blank. I don't get it.
Instructions in the dark we cant see anything
Too dark
Educate so no need hunting new korona
Can't see nothing on this video too dark