Great video! I just completed the repair this past weekend thanks to your guidance. Mine was a 2015 T&C with about 140,000 miles. I replaced all the rockers and lifters. Additionally, the right intake cam was bad and was also replaced. Luckily, the Chrysler dealership was open on Saturday and the cam was $375. The whole job was less than $650 and about 7 hours.
Excellent vid. I am 64 and was once a full-time mechanic (back in the 80s). I was able to easily do this job do to this well done video. I replaced one intake cam and one exhaust cam and all the rocker ams, and oil cooler. If you have mechanical sense, this all you need to get more life out of your van.
You do a great job with these videos. Your very informative and you show the entire process. The film quality is great and I definitely think you should stay with UA-cam.
Thanks for your help! I replaced a bad rocker arm (the last one to the right) under the left exhaust cam. I'm adding that it was easier to access the crankshaft after removing the air filter bowl. With a longuer rachet, I didin't need to remove the spark plugs to turn the crankshaft. Grand Caravan 2014.
my dealer told me that they changed 4 bad rockers and it was still ticking and I looked at the valve covers and they never took them off. Still had original RTV sealant and dirt around it. I showed the manager said how did they do it when the valve covers were never taken off. There should be new RTv on a couple spots before the valve cover goes back on.
The 4 things that you took off the front of the valve covers are VVT exciters... they are what changes the oil pressures in the VVT phasers on the camshafts... they say to soak the new lifters and rockers in assembly lube or engine oil for about an hour or longer beforehand to get the needle bearings lubed up... you also forgot to put silicone sealer on the heads/timing cover joints to stop leaks... other wise a great video
Agreed. Recall having to soak / load lifters on even old GM and FORD V8's and I still put assly lube on even the rocker surfaces. Still.... Best video I've seen yet on this. Question the lube on the timing cover joints as a lot of these new gaskets don't require it. But still...... Sure as hell can't hurt!
Is it safe to say that if one is only replacing lifters and rockers that you can do this at 24:07. Only loosen cam caps enough to get the rockers and lifters out, replace and reconnect everything? Seems to me it should be ok. Also the shop manual says to place the two holes on the cam at 30 degrees to put the cam in a neutral position.
Great video, very well explained. However I would suggest you replace ALL the lifters as well. If you have some that have already gone out, then the others are not far behind. You will want to replace them all with the upgraded parts. I just don't want to have to go back into this a year or two later and replace the other lifters that finally failed. Thank you for the great video and keep it up! Cheers
AGREED 110%. We run nothing but full synthetic in all our vehicles and wasn't until the 210K mark that ours started making that "tick of doom" so we replaced all 4 cams, all rockers and lifters. Great motors, IF you taken care of them and seen plenty with over 300K on them.
Hello sir. One comment. As I have watched this video a couple of times now. The second time I noticed that you got the wrong sequence on the cam position sensors. Number 4 was in the back not the front. You put number 4 in the front first instead of the rear where you started marking the sensors. What happened when you started the engine?? You said they needed to go back in the same place they came from. thanks, just wondering what happened?
This is defect in the Engineering design of Chrysler 3.6 and 3.2 engines. Chrysler recommends 5W20W oil!! My opinion!! I would never use that thin of an oil in hot climate areas. Minimum 5W30W or 10W30W!!! I purchased a new 2016 Town and Country. After 3000 miles on a new vehicle!! I only utilize 10W30 and with 220,000 current miles. I have not had too replace Cams, Rockers!!! Just a FYI!!!
Question.... no rockers are bad. Found 2 failed lifters. Could squeeze em with just 2 fingers. No wear on the cams. But I still have ticking coming from the left bank. I'm suspecting either a sticky valve or a bad cam phaser. Any ideas??only ticks bad when it's at op temp. No codes. Oil new and at perfect level.
Replaced my rockers and lifters left (driver) side torqued everything to spec put it all back together now I have the dreaded and mysterious P0394 code and traction light, tick is gone another problem has arises already replaced cam position sensor bank 2 clear code, came straight back I now have a cam phaser actuator that screws to the outside of the valve cover to see if one of those went bad.
Why would you only replace a couple of lifters instead of all of them? wouldn't it make more sense to do all of them to make sure this failure does not happen again in the near future?
Yes, we do. Camshafts: We only sell OEM or sealed power, and they aren't on our website. Please email sales@autopartsdirecttoyou.com with your vehicle year, make, model, and engine information, and we can email you back with a quote.
hi can you get a misfire with out having ticking noise form rockers are and no noise form lifters and yet have misfire in one particular cylinder. mine is on 1 cylinder. ive done compression test is good leack down test is good. smoke test upper and lower intake good. check ground wire to the first wire harness is good. coil and plug is good. now im not sure what or how else i can test to figure out why misfire on cylinder 1. i have same engine you are working on. thank you. i put a new injectior too. asuming new part its good.
I have 2014 TC and had to take it in to replace all rockers because it was making ticking sound. However, even after they replaced them all, it was still clicking at lower frequency, maybe once a revolution, and dealer guy said it was normal so I have been driving this way for a long time but the sound seems to get louder as time goes by. Does anyone know if this is normal? I wish this video showed before and after engine sound so I can compare.
2012 must be different its impossible to get a wrench on the 8 mm stud bolt thats mounted to the bracket that mounts to the valve cover on the left bank
You should have mentioned that there are black chain links to make sure 100% your timing is on. I was one tooth off, started my van, and threw out the timing. Now I am in a bigger problem. Just fyi.
Those black links are only for putting the chain on for the first time. It would take many revolutions of the engine to ever get them to line back up. That's why you need to mark the chain to the sprocket.
Ran into same shit Repaired as you did. All is still good. Wish I had good answer for failure Only had on good lobe on intake cam bank 2 which is right side Oil flow is good. what caused issue. Maybe Covid
hey what did you do about the chain tension er?? usually you half to hold them in place and compress them to put tension back on the chain...didnt see you do any of that...
Sitting in my ringside seat,m I really wonder shy dropping the power train out the bottom is not a design feature. How many engineer backs have been damaged by these designs? ZERO. I think they ought to work on what they design.
I went to 3 shops, and they all wanted to gouge me for around $5000.00 for this job. They said they wouldn't do it with the tensioner holding tools as the "timing can jump." They all wanted the labor cost to remove the front timing chain cover. Ridiculous.
Great video bro. Btw, I stripped the head on one of my T30 cam cap bolts. Any suggestion? I was going to use an easy out. Of course taping off so shavings don’t go into engine. Or a valve spring compressor to remove rockers? Thanks
@@FredFlintstone21 I dammed and taped around the screw and drilled off the head, then removed cap and remainder of screw. Them I put in another screw, removed both cam shafts, replaced all the rockers and lifters, finished the job and the engine has run like a charm ever since. It’s been more than a year.
@Mark Swan Great to hear you got it taken care of! The new rockers that end with AH in the part number, hopefully they last alot longer! I just bought a 2023 grand cherokee last week, and it's good to know what the known issues are! I love my new jeep! I'm sure you can relate! I got stuck in my corolla 2x this year, and went and traded it in. Do you think the type of oil, or frequency of oil changes, impact these rocker arms at all? My brother in law has a grand cherokee with 125,000 miles, and hasn't heard any ticking yet. Why? Better oil? He bought it used. Maybe previous owner fixed! It's awesome that you dove in and fixed your rockers! Most people don't even know what a rocker is!
@@FredFlintstone21 I have a 21 ram with the 3.6L. started ticking at 98k. Best advice to you is to change the oil every 3500 miles with high quality synthetic blend. Other than that I absolutely love my truck. I pull 8k around with it across the country and won't go back to 1 tons.
@Tuff McCabe thanks for commenting. My new job will be about 3500 miles commute per winter. I have several vehicles to drive in the summer months, and the jeep for winter time. So 3500 miles will work great! I was going to go 5k oil changes but if there's a bad weak point I don't wanna chance it!
I have a question. Would you be able to comment on my video on my account? I have a Chrysler 2011 town and country and there is a ticking noise and a misfire. Is my car having the same problem? Do you have any advice? Regards.
It's always easier watching a video, my 16 town and country needed 3 cams and i changed all rockers and lifters. But the phasers don't want to go on. Still trying
Got 5 of the Caravans in our fleet with this motor. 3 have over 300K on them, other 2 100K and other than the "usual" and these cams/lifters, they've been the best fleet vans we've ever had. Had everything from Chevy 30's, Ford E150/250's, Chevy 1500's and Ford F150's, ALL of which have been maintenance nightmares. Don't even get me rolling on our Ford and Dodge diesels. Since the Caravan got discontinued we were going to switch to the Ford Transit Connect until Ford shoved their head up their ass and discontinued it. Dodge Promaster City is to small so we're left shopping for Toyota's now. Eff the domestic auto makers.
Beg to differ. Had everything from old Chevy C30's, F150's, Chevy 1500's, Ford E150's in our fleet and so far these 3.6's long as you run synthetics and do regular maintenance have been the least problematic of our business fleet vehicles and 3 of the 5 have over 300K on them. Now as for that shit ass 6 speed transmission..........
Great video! I just completed the repair this past weekend thanks to your guidance. Mine was a 2015 T&C with about 140,000 miles. I replaced all the rockers and lifters. Additionally, the right intake cam was bad and was also replaced. Luckily, the Chrysler dealership was open on Saturday and the cam was $375. The whole job was less than $650 and about 7 hours.
Is the right side the side closest to the cabin?
Awesome!!
Excellent vid. I am 64 and was once a full-time mechanic (back in the 80s). I was able to easily do this job do to this well done video. I replaced one intake cam and one exhaust cam and all the rocker ams, and oil cooler. If you have mechanical sense, this all you need to get more life out of your van.
Best video on UA-cam for this job hands down I will be doing my 2016 caravan in the morning for this job thanks for the upload bud
How did it go?
You make it look so easy, I’m dying here.
Man up broski!
what a great job you did on this video.. nicely done sir!
Thank You!
Thank you for this video. It helped us repair our 2014 Town and Country.
Awesome video you go into depth explaining what needs to be done.
You do a great job with these videos. Your very informative and you show the entire process. The film quality is great and I definitely think you should stay with UA-cam.
Thanks so much for the kind words, this makes us want to start doing videos again.
Thanks for your help! I replaced a bad rocker arm (the last one to the right) under the left exhaust cam. I'm adding that it was easier to access the crankshaft after removing the air filter bowl. With a longuer rachet, I didin't need to remove the spark plugs to turn the crankshaft. Grand Caravan 2014.
Amazing video. This was so helpful. Great step by step instructions. Very clear. Thank you so much!
my dealer told me that they changed 4 bad rockers and it was still ticking and I looked at the valve covers and they never took them off. Still had original RTV sealant and dirt around it. I showed the manager said how did they do it when the valve covers were never taken off. There should be new RTv on a couple spots before the valve cover goes back on.
good job, helpful video. Greetings from Europe, Poland
The 4 things that you took off the front of the valve covers are VVT exciters... they are what changes the oil pressures in the VVT phasers on the camshafts... they say to soak the new lifters and rockers in assembly lube or engine oil for about an hour or longer beforehand to get the needle bearings lubed up... you also forgot to put silicone sealer on the heads/timing cover joints to stop leaks... other wise a great video
Agreed. Recall having to soak / load lifters on even old GM and FORD V8's and I still put assly lube on even the rocker surfaces. Still.... Best video I've seen yet on this. Question the lube on the timing cover joints as a lot of these new gaskets don't require it. But still...... Sure as hell can't hurt!
Man thank you 1000 times!!!
Is it safe to say that if one is only replacing lifters and rockers that you can do this at 24:07. Only loosen cam caps enough to get the rockers and lifters out, replace and reconnect everything? Seems to me it should be ok. Also the shop manual says to place the two holes on the cam at 30 degrees to put the cam in a neutral position.
You can do that but you run the risk of stripping the threads in the aluminum head
Great video, very well explained. However I would suggest you replace ALL the lifters as well. If you have some that have already gone out, then the others are not far behind. You will want to replace them all with the upgraded parts. I just don't want to have to go back into this a year or two later and replace the other lifters that finally failed. Thank you for the great video and keep it up! Cheers
AGREED 110%. We run nothing but full synthetic in all our vehicles and wasn't until the 210K mark that ours started making that "tick of doom" so we replaced all 4 cams, all rockers and lifters. Great motors, IF you taken care of them and seen plenty with over 300K on them.
We completely agree, but when working on someone else's car, they get the final say.
Big job, I have to do that to my van. What causes that to happen???
Hello sir. One comment. As I have watched this video a couple of times now. The second time I noticed that you got the wrong sequence on the cam position sensors. Number 4 was in the back not the front. You put number 4 in the front first instead of the rear where you started marking the sensors. What happened when you started the engine?? You said they needed to go back in the same place they came from.
thanks, just wondering what happened?
This is defect in the Engineering design of Chrysler 3.6 and 3.2 engines. Chrysler recommends 5W20W oil!! My opinion!! I would never use that thin of an oil in hot climate areas. Minimum 5W30W or 10W30W!!! I purchased a new 2016 Town and Country. After 3000 miles on a new vehicle!! I only utilize 10W30 and with 220,000 current miles. I have not had too replace Cams, Rockers!!! Just a FYI!!!
They actually used 5w30 on earlier engines. My 2011 takes 5w30, I dunno when or why they switched to 5w20
Question.... no rockers are bad. Found 2 failed lifters. Could squeeze em with just 2 fingers. No wear on the cams. But I still have ticking coming from the left bank. I'm suspecting either a sticky valve or a bad cam phaser. Any ideas??only ticks bad when it's at op temp. No codes. Oil new and at perfect level.
Same I hope replacing all lifters and rockers. Will that work? Hope so
Replaced my rockers and lifters left (driver) side torqued everything to spec put it all back together now I have the dreaded and mysterious P0394 code and traction light, tick is gone another problem has arises already replaced cam position sensor bank 2 clear code, came straight back I now have a cam phaser actuator that screws to the outside of the valve cover to see if one of those went bad.
The 4 Exhaust Camshaft are the same 1 can be used anywhere
Lo haces ver muy facil gracias
Why would you only replace a couple of lifters instead of all of them? wouldn't it make more sense to do all of them to make sure this failure does not happen again in the near future?
great video I have dodge caravan I'm afraid to do it I'm not technician but with this vide seems I can do it any suggestions
So does autopartsdirecttoyou ship to canada? I can't find actual camshafts on that site.
Yes, we do. Camshafts: We only sell OEM or sealed power, and they aren't on our website. Please email sales@autopartsdirecttoyou.com with your vehicle year, make, model, and engine information, and we can email you back with a quote.
What would happen if you installed the phaser solenoid/actuators in the wrong position?
Why do you have to relearn phasers? Didnt change anything? I never do it. Done over 50 so far. Just wondering
Hey Paul- would you only need to relearn if changed the phaser? I’m about to go into my 2014 t&c Thanks for any tips and clues!
hi can you get a misfire with out having ticking noise form rockers are and no noise form lifters and yet have misfire in one particular cylinder. mine is on 1 cylinder. ive done compression test is good leack down test is good. smoke test upper and lower intake good. check ground wire to the first wire harness is good. coil and plug is good. now im not sure what or how else i can test to figure out why misfire on cylinder 1. i have same engine you are working on. thank you. i put a new injectior too. asuming new part its good.
One video I saw showed needing to remove the thermostat. But this video doesn't show that. Anyone know if that step is needed?
The phaser oil bolt was broken on mines,so how do I set TDC marks,if it doesn't spin with the crank pully.
I wonder what holds the chain down, how come it does not slip off the crankshaft?
I was wondering exactly the same thing. Seems like it could just fall off and you would not know how the cams are timed to the crankshaft.
I actually watched another guy explain why the chain doesn’t fall…. It’s cause at the bottom it’s actually being held into place by the housing
I have 2014 TC and had to take it in to replace all rockers because it was making ticking sound. However, even after they replaced them all, it was still clicking at lower frequency, maybe once a revolution, and dealer guy said it was normal so I have been driving this way for a long time but the sound seems to get louder as time goes by. Does anyone know if this is normal? I wish this video showed before and after engine sound so I can compare.
Might be your lifters
THe cam probably needed to be replace also but they let it go, and therefore still makes a low clicking sound
2012 must be different its impossible to get a wrench on the 8 mm stud bolt thats mounted to the bracket that mounts to the valve cover on the left bank
You should have mentioned that there are black chain links to make sure 100% your timing is on. I was one tooth off, started my van, and threw out the timing. Now I am in a bigger problem. Just fyi.
Those black links are only for putting the chain on for the first time. It would take many revolutions of the engine to ever get them to line back up. That's why you need to mark the chain to the sprocket.
?good video how much now days they charging for a job like this ?
Ran into same shit Repaired as you did. All is still good. Wish I had good answer for failure Only had on good lobe on intake cam bank 2 which is right side Oil flow is good. what caused issue. Maybe Covid
hey what did you do about the chain tension er?? usually you half to hold them in place and compress them to put tension back on the chain...didnt see you do any of that...
He didn't show up how to install the chain tensioner tool to compress the tensioner guide pretty important step :(
Yes he forgot a few steps unfortunately I found out the hard way
Sitting in my ringside seat,m I really wonder shy dropping the power train out the bottom is not a design feature. How many engineer backs have been damaged by these designs? ZERO. I think they ought to work on what they design.
Should of changed out the oil cooler also when you were in there with the top off.
Thank you so much!
I went to 3 shops, and they all wanted to gouge me for around $5000.00 for this job. They said they wouldn't do it with the tensioner holding tools as the "timing can jump." They all wanted the labor cost to remove the front timing chain cover. Ridiculous.
what is "to take the engine over"?
Awsome video.
He got the smallt tool into the hole to release tension meanwhile i still cant figure out how to turn the tool
Great video bro. Btw, I stripped the head on one of my T30 cam cap bolts. Any suggestion? I was going to use an easy out. Of course taping off so shavings don’t go into engine. Or a valve spring compressor to remove rockers? Thanks
What did you end up doing?
@@FredFlintstone21 I dammed and taped around the screw and drilled off the head, then removed cap and remainder of screw. Them I put in another screw, removed both cam shafts, replaced all the rockers and lifters, finished the job and the engine has run like a charm ever since. It’s been more than a year.
@Mark Swan Great to hear you got it taken care of! The new rockers that end with AH in the part number, hopefully they last alot longer! I just bought a 2023 grand cherokee last week, and it's good to know what the known issues are! I love my new jeep! I'm sure you can relate! I got stuck in my corolla 2x this year, and went and traded it in. Do you think the type of oil, or frequency of oil changes, impact these rocker arms at all? My brother in law has a grand cherokee with 125,000 miles, and hasn't heard any ticking yet. Why? Better oil? He bought it used. Maybe previous owner fixed! It's awesome that you dove in and fixed your rockers! Most people don't even know what a rocker is!
@@FredFlintstone21 I have a 21 ram with the 3.6L. started ticking at 98k. Best advice to you is to change the oil every 3500 miles with high quality synthetic blend. Other than that I absolutely love my truck. I pull 8k around with it across the country and won't go back to 1 tons.
@Tuff McCabe thanks for commenting. My new job will be about 3500 miles commute per winter. I have several vehicles to drive in the summer months, and the jeep for winter time. So 3500 miles will work great! I was going to go 5k oil changes but if there's a bad weak point I don't wanna chance it!
Anybody see he didn't put the cam sensor's back in the same place
Good Job thank you 👍
Wow Good Job thank amigo
The lifters are cheap, why not replace them all?
Leave it to Chrysler to make this POS. The old 3.3 pushrod engine was much better quality...Though antiquated...
I have a question. Would you be able to comment on my video on my account? I have a Chrysler 2011 town and country and there is a ticking noise and a misfire. Is my car having the same problem? Do you have any advice? Regards.
It's always easier watching a video, my 16 town and country needed 3 cams and i changed all rockers and lifters. But the phasers don't want to go on. Still trying
If you in in the Los Angeles area I got a job for u
2015 Chrysler 300
Use thicker oil. I use 10w60 Castrol supercar oil.
Top man
Amazon parts vs Mopar … Anybody? Canada ..Mopar = $700. Amazon =$116 and up. Rocker and rods. Quality vs offshore?
What a huge piece of crap these motors are.
Got 5 of the Caravans in our fleet with this motor. 3 have over 300K on them, other 2 100K and other than the "usual" and these cams/lifters, they've been the best fleet vans we've ever had. Had everything from Chevy 30's, Ford E150/250's, Chevy 1500's and Ford F150's, ALL of which have been maintenance nightmares. Don't even get me rolling on our Ford and Dodge diesels. Since the Caravan got discontinued we were going to switch to the Ford Transit Connect until Ford shoved their head up their ass and discontinued it. Dodge Promaster City is to small so we're left shopping for Toyota's now. Eff the domestic auto makers.
This is the epitomy of my last ever Chrysler. For less money I can buy an old ,old vehicle. Always run, fixable, maybe 3 wires.
Beg to differ. Had everything from old Chevy C30's, F150's, Chevy 1500's, Ford E150's in our fleet and so far these 3.6's long as you run synthetics and do regular maintenance have been the least problematic of our business fleet vehicles and 3 of the 5 have over 300K on them. Now as for that shit ass 6 speed transmission..........